Times TM ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY

February 2013 Horological

Burnishing a Ball Bearing Setting

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE This Month’s Focus: Repair Insights 21st Century Workshop: Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces The Omega Oscillating Weight, Caliber 1150 Special Watch Service Aids, Part 2 Silence is Golden for ETA: The Talking Number System Clockmaking—The Tools, Part 2 NEW!NEW! QualityQuality ToolTool && DieDie SetsSets 34-Piece Instrument Mid-Size Tap & Die Set Set of eight HSS dies and 24 steel taps with three grooves. Con- tains sizes: 1.00, 1.20, 1.40, 1.70, 2.00, 2.30, 2.60, and 3.00mm. Includes three each of three-step taps and one 16mm die per size, a double-handled tap holder and a double-handled die holder. Use taps with one stripe to start the hole, taps with two stripes to shape the hole, and taps with no stripes to finish the hole. All the taps have a 2.5 or 3mm square drive end. Made in Germany. BG2776-16 Mid-Size Tap & Die Set $ 399.00

49-Piece Watchmaking Tap & Die Set Complete set of 12 steel dies and 36 taps. Contains 12 sizes: .40, .50, .65, .70, .80, .90, 1.00, 1.10, 1.20, 1.30, and 1.40mm. Includes three taps and one 8mm 2-hole die per size and a double-handled die holder. Taps have three grooves and can be held with a 1.5mm pin vise. Made in Germany. BG2776-8 Watchmaking Tap & Die Set $ 595.00

Taps Only Assortment BG1967-ASST Set of 10 Taps .40—1.4mm $ 79.00

Jules Borel & Co. 1110 Grand Boulevard n Kansas City, Missouri 64106 Phone 800-776-6858 n Fax 800-776-6862 n julesborel.com

Horo Times ad Tap die sets 2-13.indd 1 1/28/2013 11:11:04 AM NEW!NEW! QualityQuality ToolTool && DieDie SetsSets in this issue VOLUME 37, NUMBER 2, February 2013 34-Piece Instrument Mid-Size Tap & Die Set Committee Volunteers Advertiser’s Index features page 33 Set of eight HSS dies and 24 steel taps with three grooves. Con- page 23 tains sizes: 1.00, 1.20, 1.40, 1.70, 2.00, 2.30, 2.60, and 3.00mm. New Watch Repair and Industry Advisory Includes three each of three-step taps and one 16mm die per size, Official Publication of the American Retail Store Produces an Discover Your New Board Members a double-handled tap holder and a double-handled die holder. Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Uptick in Sales Website page 33 Use taps with one stripe to start the hole, taps with two stripes to By Amy Dunn & Chuck page 28 shape the hole, and taps with no stripes to finish the hole. All the EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES Gibson page 4 taps have a 2.5 or 3mm square drive end. Made in Germany. American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) BG2776-16 701 Enterprise Drive Clockmaking—The Tools Harrison, OH 45030 Part 2 industry LIKE US ON Mid-Size Tap & Die Set 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Laurie Penman or 513-367-9800 page 8 FACEBOOK! Fax 513-367-1414 news $ 399.00 [email protected] • www.awci.com www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Special Watch Service Chelsea Clock Announc- Aids, Part 2 es Heirloom-Quality American Dale LaDue, CMW21, Timepieces Watchmakers- Amy S. Dunn page 10 page 18 Managing Editor & Advertising Manager Clockmakers Ext. 307 [email protected] Silence is Golden for Swatch Group Institute ETA Announces another Year 49-Piece Watchmaking Keith M. Rosser By Jack Kurdzionak, of Growth Acting Executive Director CW21, FAWCI page 19 www.facebook.com/ Tap & Die Set Ext. 310 [email protected] page 12 Complete set of 12 steel dies and 36 taps. Contains 12 sizes: .40, .50, .65, My AWCI Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 New Bulova Accutron .70, .80, .90, 1.00, 1.10, 1.20, 1.30, and 1.40mm. Includes three taps and External Fine Adjust- Watchmaking Instructor/ one 8mm 2-hole die per size and a double-handled die holder. Taps have ment System three grooves and can be held with a 1.5mm pin vise. Made in Germany. Certification Coordinator technical page 20 Ext. 309 [email protected] BG2776-8 Daniela Ott discussions Watchmaking Tap & Die Set Education & Certification Administrator Ext. 303 [email protected] The Omega education & Horological Times $ 595.00 Oscillating Weight, Advertising Policy & Sandy Eichert Caliber 1150 Editorial Policy Art Director By Jordan Ficklin, CW21 certification The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertis- Ext. 302 [email protected] page 14 ing copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at The Clockmaker’s Bench the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in Horological Times Questions & Answers FAWI, FBHI which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall Advisory Committee By David Christianson, be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher Taps Only Jordan Ficklin, CW21 : Chairman CMW21, FAWI page 24 reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or Ron Iverson, CMC page 16 agency agrees to assume liability for all content of adver- Assortment Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21 tisements printed. They will also accept responsibility for David Fahrenholz AWCI Course and any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the BG1967-ASST Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW Exam Schedule publisher. Printed articles may also be used without per- Robert D. Porter, CMW mission expressly sought, or payment made, on www. page 25 awci.com or the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Set of 10 Taps Ron Landberg, CW21 awci news Facebook page. .40—1.4mm Important Announcement Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, $ 79.00 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2013 by the By AWCI Board of Directors classifieds represent the views of the American Watchmakers- American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. page 2 Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submit- Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted Buy, Sell, Trade, and ted materials and is under no obligation to accept any by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, President’s Message Employment submitted materials for publication. The appearance, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $169.00 per year By Manuel Yazijian, reference, or advertisement of any product or service in ($14.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which is included with Opportunities this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of annual dues of $169.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and CMW21 page 30 such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, page 3 officers or employees. Jules Borel & Co. 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 1110 Grand Boulevard n Kansas City, Missouri 64106 Phone 800-776-6858 n Fax 800-776-6862 n julesborel.com 1

Horo Times ad Tap die sets 2-13.indd 1 1/28/2013 11:11:04 AM an important announcement

s a part of AWCI’s ongoing strategic planning process, your Board of Directors has made several decisions regarding the Afuture of AWCI, which we would like to bring to your attention. Most importantly, Jim Lubic and Tom Pack are no longer with the organization. We thank them for their years of service, and we wish them well in their endeavors.

The Board of Directors has appointed Mr. Keith Rosser, our new Chief Financial Officer, to act as interim Executive Director until a new Executive Director is appointed. Mr. Rosser has 25 years of experience in positions of progressive responsibilities in publicly-owned, multi- billion dollar international companies serving as Vice President, Treasurer, Controller and Project Manager. He will be working with the staff and the Board of Directors to improve the services of AWCI.

Both the AWCI Board and staff will continue working hard through this transition period. We look forward to your continued support as we advance the Art, Science, and Business of Horology.

Regards, AWCI Board of Directors a message from the president Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 s I write this message, This will help us stay on track and plan our goals and im- the AWCI Board of Di- plement them over the course of the next five years. By Arectors met at AWCI keeping up with the changes and trends, we stand less of Headquarters in Harrison, a chance of becoming stale. Next month, I will give you Ohio for our Strategic Ac- more of an update on the results of our meeting. tion Plan. The Board and staff participated in an interac- Talking of stale, when was the last time you ordered tive session facilitated by Mr. fresh oil for your watches or clocks? If the oil bottle does T.D. Hughes, a well-respect- not have a production or expiry date, it’s time to toss it. ed business consultant. This Some manufacturers recommend a fresh bottle every 2 meeting was held over four to 4 years—and not 24 years! days, from January 31st through February 3rd. You may remember my October, 2012 message, where I stressed I am always looking for dedicated individuals to serve the need for proper business planning—I am keeping on committees. If you would like to serve, please visit true to my promise. www.awci.com, proceed to the ABOUT US link and on the left hand column, choose COMMITTEE VOLUNTEER Over the course of the last three months, we gathered FORM. Fill out your information and click SUBMIT. Or, feedback from the general membership and compiled you can complete the form on page 29. If you have ques- this to help us with our planning. We also solicited in- tions, you can contact me at the e-mail address below. put from the various members of industry, including, but not limited to suppliers, manufacturers, retailers, service In the meantime, keep your skills honed, your standards very centers and all those who are members of the Industry high, your attitude professional, your tools and equipment Advisory Board. Many of them attended to help us plan in great condition and your workshops clean and organized; for the growth of our industry. We did our utmost to you never know who may come by to pay you a visit. please everyone, while also knowing we could not be “all things to all people.“ Manuel Yazijian [email protected] As you may be aware, you were represented at this meeting by the various Board members who you helped elect. Based on their election platform, they were voted in and they were your eyes, ears, and most importantly, AN UPDATE ON YOUR your voice at the meeting. Collectively, we also listened BOARD OF DIRECTORS to your concerns and your suggestions and used these Two of your elected directors resigned at this important meeting. However, keep sending in recently due to personal reasons. Per the your suggestions and your concerns at any time—it will AWCI Bylaws, we have appointed two new help us build a stronger you! members for the completion of their terms. As a reminder to all, Board members pay their own way Your 2013-14 Board of Directors is: to travel to these meetings and have been doing so for Manuel Yazijian, CMW21, President a number of years now to help save on the Institute’s Wesley Grau, CMW21, Vice President finances. They do this because they are dedicated indi- viduals who care about you and want to give back to Henry Kessler, Treasurer the profession. Many of them are just like you, making David Douglas, CW21, Secretary a living at the bench; therefore, they lose considerable Tom Nesbit, CW21, Director income when they are away from their workplace. Please Fred White, CMW21, Director be sure to thank your representing Board members for taking the time to help make your life a little easier. Michal Blaszczyk, CW21, Director Ron Landberg, CW21, Director This Strategic Action meeting was an important one as Jordan Ficklin, CW21, Director we recognize our industry—as all industries—is continu- ing to change. During the meeting we reviewed the state Justin Shiver, CW21, Director of the repair industry, spare parts, finances, certification, Jason Ziegenbein, CW21, REC Director timely communication, education reform, and staffing Terry Kurdzionak, IAB Director needs among others.

Horological Times February 2013 3 features

The Rolex Shop has its own entrance and signage. New Watch Repair From the outside, the Shop appears to be complete- ly separate. However, once you enter, it is attached to the store. According to Slade, “This was one of and Retail Store the first stores to dedicate a special area for a Rolex Shop-in-Shop. We also put in a Breitling boutique Produces an that is the largest installation in any independent jewelry store in the world. We now have A. Lange & Söhne and Audemars Piguet also marketing in a re- Uptick in Sales lated fashion, but on a smaller scale.” Some brands have their own store-within-a-store, while others ewis Diamonds & Timepieces recently opened have distinctive cases and décor to preserve each one of the first Rolex Shop-in-Shops located brand’s image. Lin Webster, Texas, just outside of Houston. The watchmaking group at Lewis believes their new How Their Ideas Came to Fruition watch repair and sales business is truly one-of-a- kind, and they are ready to compete with any major When Slade and Cindy Lewis came to the family watch business in the country. business, the husband and wife team brought many new ideas to the company. The Lewis’ wanted to A Bit of Lewis History have a watch facility equal to something at a watch manufacturer level. The construction, interior de- Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces started out as a jewelry sign, equipment, and the number of people they shop in 1981. It wasn’t until 18 years later that watches could employ were all part of their goals. became part of the business when Slade Lewis joined the family company. “Before 1999, we had no watch- Slade and Cindy also looked around the country at es,” Lewis explained. “It was just a neat little jewelry what others were doing well, and they found a com- store, a mom-and-pop type of store. I came on board, mon thread: If the business carried certain luxury I loved watches, and I saw an opportunity.” lines, they usually did well. The Lewis’ saw ideas they liked, combined them with their own, and built Slade began soliciting the major luxury brands. Be- their new store. Slade Lewis admits he is biased, but cause of Lewis’ business practices, and because he believes their retail shop “is one of the coolest there were no dealers in the area at the time, they retail places on the planet.” landed the Rolex account, becoming an Official Ro- lex Jeweler. Rolex watches have been part of their Cindy and Slade travel to trade shows every year store from that point on. Now called Lewis Dia- to keep up on industry trends. They liked the ex- monds & Timepieces, they moved into a nearby lo- perience in Switzerland and other upscale show en- cation in 2012 which gave them better visibility. This vironments, so another goal in designing the new also gave them the opportunity to build the Rolex store was to recreate a Swiss-type atmosphere for Shop-in-Shop. their customers here.

The new Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces location with a The Watch Shop Technology separate entrance on the left for the Rolex Shop-in-Shop. Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces takes pride in maintaining a state-of-the-art facility for their CW21 watchmaker, David Steele. The Lewis watch shop contains the latest tools, water resis- tance testing equipment and clean- ing equipment. Slade Lewis says they have nearly recreated the manufac- turing process environment for every brand they carry. He has visited the manufacturing centers of the brands,

Horological Times February 2013 Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces By Amy Dunn & Chuck Gibson

Slade, however, found that there were two sides to David Steele. When it comes to discussing watch topics, he works well with customers explaining what’s wrong and what needs to be done for proper repair. In fact, he is so comfortable with customers, the com- pany is now hosting a series of “Watch Talks.” In these sessions, David takes several hours with a group of custom- ers to explain the basics of how watch- es work and proper watch care. The company has found that luxury watch owners are hungry for knowledge and take pride in being able to talk intel- ligently about the inner workings of

The Rolex Shop-in-Shop preserves the brand image and gives customers a quiet, elegant environment to experience different selections. and brand representatives keep him informed, which their watches. helps him emulate manufacturers’ systems. Watch- They find these maker, David Steele, continues to attend training informal sessions sessions for each luxury brand they represent, be- build long-term cause technology is always evolving. customer rela- tionships and re- Cleanliness is taken to the extreme in the watch peat business. shop. Upon entering, everyone walks over a sticky mat that traps dust and dirt from shoes. The work- Lewis Diamonds room is pressurized with a positive air flow that re- & Timepieces is cycles every hour. This prevents dust from entering growing and will the room. To keep the workbench area clean, there need to hire an is a separate room for polishing with a negative air additional watch- flow from an overhead exhaust system to remove maker soon. Next particulates. The polishing machines have vacuum will be a full-time filtration systems which further reduce dust. polisher. Lewis says the watch The company has also optimized the layout and factories want to lighting to help their watchmakers work efficiently. get all the good To allow for future growth, they have the capacity to people, but when David Steele, CW21 watchmaker at Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces. accommodate up to four full-time watchmakers and hiring, that’s his a full-time polisher. goal, too. He wants to maintain an opportunity for watchmakers The Most Important Part of the which may just be better than what they could find Shop—The Watchmaker elsewhere. The Benefits and Challenges of When David Steele first met the owner, Slade Lew- is, they both felt “things clicked.” David had been a Working with Several Luxury Brands watchmaker for 23 years and Slade found that David Having the tools and the training to work on different was extremely detailed and absorbed in his work. brands is both an opportunity and a challenge for a They both joked and said, if David could work all watchmaker, which David Steele appreciates. Educa- alone on an island with his watches, he would. tion is continuous, and it doesn’t stop with the CW21 Horological Times February 2013 5 features

certification. He has way customers react when giving them an estimate taken AWCI continuing because it helps them understand the reasons be- education courses, and hind the repair charges. When a customer sees the just recently, he spent inside of their watch on a big screen TV at 25x mag- a week in training with nification, the looks on their faces and the discussion Breitling. of the repair goes to a whole new level.

Luxury watch brands, Organization and Documentation he notes, can be a very are Paramount different breed. Some brands don’t allow any The watch department is a good example of organi- modification to their zation on two different levels. The first is the physi- product. David notes cal level, which is the layout, the Lista cabinets, the some luxury brands workflow, etc. The second level is the job tracking even go to the extent software. Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces uses Edge of saying, if their watch software which was designed primarily for jewelry is modified, legally it stores, but is flexible enough to be customized for becomes a counterfeit the watch repair side of the business. watch. “Then, if you sell that watch modified,” One of three private showrooms Repairs come to the shop in two ways: 1) Repairs are he adds, “it can be an where David Steele can discuss dropped off by customers, or 2) Repairs are mailed repairs with customers. offense. You are selling in. Jobs brought in by customers are photographed a counterfeit product. and the documentation begins while the customer is So the manufacturers really do take brand protec- still present. There is a similar procedure for shipped tion to a whole new level, and as a watchmaker, you repairs. have to be mindful of that.”

The Importance of the Take-In Process The workshop has the space to expand to up to four watchmakers. Making certain the customer is fully informed starts at the beginning of any repair at Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces. This process begins and ends with doc- umentation via their digital camera. Virtually every- thing in the watchmaking process is photographed for two reasons: 1) It takes customer service to a new level, and 2) It provides documentation for the com- pany should questions arise. “The first thing we do is authenticate the watch,” David notes. “If we receive a watch that’s been modified, we note it for liability purposes and provide that information to the cus- tomer immediately.”

With a digital video camera on the workbench, the shop has the capability to e-mail customers photos and/or videos of a particular issue, or of the process of the repair itself. Problems can be easily demon- strated to the customer. However, the camera also holds the company accountable and demands excel- lence in every step of the watch repair. The company provides three private showrooms which allow cus- tomers to view their watch while work is being per- formed live. This assures customers their watches are receiving the best of care, and has changed the

6 Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces

Marketing Completes the Picture

Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces is an active market- er. Just look on their website at www.lewisusa.com and you’ll get a glimpse of everything they do. The store continues to have good attendance at David Steele’s “Watch Talks.” That’s just one of the many events they host, because they heavily promote the jewelry side of their business, as well. The compa- ny has sales and promotions which they advertise through TV commercials, billboards, print advertis- ing and newsletters. They have also sponsored the Houston Astros and the Houston Rockets. Looking to the Future The Breitling boutique has current Breitling marketing and showroom materials to enhance their brand image. From store design, to a highly-trained watch- maker, to offering luxury Below is a step-by-step review of brands, to marketing, it the repair process: seems Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces has cov- ered all the bases in 1. The watch arrives from a customer or at shipping their effort to be “one of where it is unwrapped underneath the video camera. the coolest retail places It is logged into the Edge system as received and is on the planet.” They are assigned a SKU number with a photo of the watch. also successful and em- 2. The watch goes to a job foreman who logs it out to ploy over 30 people in the watchmaker. their store. In terms of 3. The watchmaker receives it and notes that in the sys- the watchmaking and tem, allowing the watch to be tracked throughout retail watch business, it the entire process. contributes a large part 4. The watch information/estimate for repair goes back to their overall profit. to the job foreman who then contacts the customer. And over the long term, they plan for this de- 5. Once the customer approves the repair, the watch- The Greiner Vibrograf ACS900 maker is notified and the watch goes into the job partment to continue to represents the latest technology queue. produce a healthy rev- in automatic cleaning machines. enue for the business. t 6. All repair work is completed under the camera. Should any problems or questions arise, the cus- tomer is notified and shown the issues, using photos, when needed. 7. Once the job is completed, the watch goes back to BUSHINGS! the job foreman; the customer is contacted by e-mail KWM SIZE IN BRONZE $4.00/ 20 pc PACK and payment is secured. KWM SIZE IN BRASS $8.00/ 50 pc PACK 8. The completed watch returns to shipping, is wrapped underneath the camera, and is shipped back to the No min order. No small parts surcharge. Mailing $2 US/CAN, $5 Internatl. customer. Or, the customer returns to pick up the repaired watch. Butterworth Clocks, Inc. The photos and videos are kept on file for a pre-de- termined period. All customers receive a two-year 5300 59th Ave. West Muscatine, IA 52761 warranty card from Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces. Phone: 563-263-6759 Fax: 563-263-0428 E-mail: [email protected]

Horological Times February 2013 7 features

Witness Clockmaking— The Tools Part 2 Plan view Side view Plan view Side view Plan view Turning Tool Form Side view

he service demanded of the turning tool when making the relatively small parts of a clock is Tlight-duty work, so I use High Speed Steel (HSS) Roughly ground Stone to a ne edge Removing worn tip bits with a rectangular section. General lathe work Figure 02.02: Example of the method being described. calls for a wide variety of tool shapes and angles for the cutting faces. Again, because the duty is light, I there is considerable confusion amongst machinists use the same tool form and angles for steel and brass and the literature, and you will find that “rake” and turning and facing (producing an end surface of the “clearance” are often used interchangeably. For my shoulder at right angles to the turned cylinder). purposes, rake is an angle that is not normal to the cutting edge and is intended to help clear the waste The only differences that I make relate to the tip of metal (swarf) away from the machined surface and the tool. For most jobs, I make a chamfer of about relieve the load on the tip. Rake is rarely needed for 0.25 mm on the tip, simply to make it less likely to making clock parts because the duty called for is so break. I leave a rough, machined surface, but for fin- light. What’s more, by not using rake (and if the top ishing a pivot, the tool is made as sharp as a graver, surface of the bit is on the center line of the lathe) and when stroked over a fingernail, its own weight the tool may be resharpened by simply grinding the causes it to dig in. (Making pivots will be covered lat- front clearance until the worn portion of the cutting er in this series.) edge has been removed. This will leave the point of the tool still on the center line. However, if the side or 10.00˚ Top clearance top clearances are reground, the cutting edge will be lowered and be below the center line.

My method of working is to grind the top and side Front clearance surfaces until just a little of the original surface (the witness) is left as a flat the length of the grinding 10.00 ˚ 10.00˚ surface. It should be about 0.125 mm to 0.25 mm in width. Then, I use coarse and fine slip stones (or dia- Side clearance mond slips) on these surfaces until there is no witness and a keen cutting edge is produced. It is a long pro- For light turning and facing the clearances may be the same for brass and steel. cess, but it should not need to be done again until the regrinding of the front has reduced the length of the cutting edges beyond the usable limit (Figure 02.02). Top rake 10.00˚ Bench Grinders

For heavy turning a rake is needed and that and clearance will vary for the material being machined and the duty required Making and sharpening these tools is usually carried out with a bench grinder. A simple grinder with six-inch Figure 02.01: Illustration of how a tool bit will appear after grinding diameter wheels and a tool support that can be adjust- ed for angle is perfectly good enough. There is no need for a more complicated model with pumped coolant Figure 02.01 is a drawing of the tool bit after grinding. and multi-angle support. Grindstones are made for a It has a square section and I am careful to preserve wide range of materials and duties, but the machine the edge between the top surface (top clearance) will probably be fitted with a wheel intended to grind and the side surface (side clearance). The terminol- carbon steel tools, and this will serve for HSS with no ogy I am accustomed to appears on the drawing, but problems at all. These grindstones are grey, not white,

8 Horological Times February 2013 Clockmaking—The Tools Part 2 By Laurie Penman blue or green. Check the tool over it smoothly and produce clean cutting with the supplier, be- faces. For some reason, manufacturers often do not cause a wheel that is seem to appreciate this and the top of the support very unsuitable will may need to be smoothed with a mill file or a saw burn the tool, wear sharpening file before use in clockmaking operations. away very quickly, or will take a long time Figure 02.03: The bench grinder in use to remove metal and (be sure to use a face guard). form the tool.

Figure 02.03 shows a bench grinder in use. Please note the face guard for safety. The transparent guard that is supplied with the tool does not prevent grit or sparks from bouncing off the body of the grinder and around the fitted guard. Some may use safety goggles, but these do not protect your face. Additionally, particles shot off by the wheel can lodge in the skin, and the dust is not particularly good for your lungs if you do a lot of grinding. A container for cold water is needed, too, be- cause the tool will get hot. Frequent dips into the water will prevent the new cutting edges from becoming col- ored and damaged. The tool will be more comfortable to handle, as well. The Grindstone Figure 02.04: Tool for dressing a wheel (top view). The grits that provide the cutting action when grinding a tool will eventually lose their edge and become glazed. The composition of the wheel is engineered so that the Figure 02.06 shows a turning tool modified for inter- grits will break away and expose new cutting edges, or rupted cutting (as when producing a disk from a square they will fall out altogether releasing the metal that has blank). It also indicates the direction of grinding that is been removed from tools. This is never a complete solu- preferred. t tion and the wheel needs to be dressed every so often. Figure 02.04 is a photograph of the tool used for this op- Watch for Part 3 to come eration. It consists of a gang of toothed disks mounted next month. loosely on a spindle. This is pressed against the rotating wheel and literally hammers away the glazed surface and removes any grooves as shown in Figure 02.04, while Figure 02.05 is a view of the underside of the tool.

The Support

The angles given earlier for a turning tool do not need to be precise for the work that a clockmaker normally Figure 02.05: Underside view of the tool. Plan view

carries out, but the ground surfaces revealed should be Side view a single, curved sweep, not a series of facets. This not only looks neater and more professional, but once you have produced cutting faces that do the job to your satisfaction, smooth curves provide a datum for re- grinding and producing the same results. Tool for interrupted cuts The arrows indicate the direction If the tool support on the bench grinder is rough and of the grinding or polishing. has notches in its surface, it is very difficult to slide Figure 02.06: Modified turning tool for interrupted cutting.

Horological Times February 2013 9 By Dale LaDue, CMW21

FiGure 2.1

Special Watch FiGure 2.3 Service Aids-Part 2 FiGure 2.4 n Part 1, I depicted a few devices that can aid watchmakers in servicing watches without mark- Iing movements. In this part, the fixture demon- strated will aid in securing an automatic bridge dur- ing assembly. I have used a Rolex caliber 3035 for demonstration purposes.

Figure 2.1 shows the fixture that was crafted out of Lucite™. A disk was cut out of a sheet of ¼” thick Lucite that was larger than the diameter of the auto- matic main plate. The diameter is relative; it simply has to be stable and easy to handle. The diameter of the automatic plate was measured and the disk cen- was turned to fit tightly when pressed into the holes. ter was milled out to 23.88 mm as shown in Figure These two pins need to be set tangent to the scribed 2.2. (This can also be mounted in a lathe and turned lines in order to create a snug fit of the plate (see out if you do not have a milling machine.) The depth Figures 2.5 and 2.6). is also relative and must simply be deeper than the Clearance for the pinion of the automatic interme- diate wheel that extends below the plate was cre- FiGure 2.2 ated by milling out (or drilling out) a hole with a ball burr (Figure 2.7). The lower plate is shown in Figure 2.8 mounted se- curely in the fix- ture. A view of the reverse side of the FiGure 3 fixture depicts the intermediate wheel FiGure 2.5 in place with its pinion nested in its thickness of the plate. In this case, the depth gauge, recess (Figure 2.9). shown in Figure 2.3, indicates 1.47 mm (see Figure The intermediate 2.4). The plate was set in the recess and its outline wheel (Figure 2.10) was traced on the surface. Two holes were drilled the two reverser part of the way through the fixture, approximately gears (Figure 2.11) halfway along the trace lines that radiate from the and finally, the up- outside toward the center of the fixture. Delrin® rod per plate (Figure

10 FiGure 2.6 Special Watch Service Aids part 2 By Dale LaDue, CMW21

FiGure 2.7 FiGure 2.10

2.12) can be assembled quickly and securely. The objective is to have as little handling as possible. FiGure 2.11

In the next installment, I shall solve an annoyance I have experienced with certain types of oil cups. In addition, I’ll show a very simple stem release tool I developed for specific ETA calibers. t

Editor’s Note: This article is valuable for those who do not have access to these tools and who want to quickly make a good alternative. However, there is also a tool for holding the automatic module available from Rolex. It is Tool Ref. # 2020—jig for automatic device, Caliber 3035.

FiGure 2.8 FiGure 2.12

FiGure 2.9 A CORRECTION We omitted the Figure 11 photo FiGure 11 from Mr. LaDue’s Part 1 in this series from the January, 2013 issue on page 5. This photo shows a tool made from a brass rod with its end tapered to a point that has been bent to form a small hook. The tip allows the scratch-free release of shock absorber spring when inserted between the jewel housing and spring arm, as shown.

Horological Times February 2013 11 features By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI the end of 2012. As of January 1, 2013, ETA discontin- Silence is Golden ued the use of “Talking Numbers.” As an example, un- til this year, ETA part 443.2801 was a set lever for ETA caliber 2824-2, which is a derived caliber from an ETA for ETA 2801. The part number said it all; what the part was and its stock number. These so-called “Talking Num- or several years, I met with the folks at ETA Cus- bers” worked very well for watchmakers for decades, tomer Service during every visit to BaselWorld. In but now we need to understand the new system and Fthose sessions, we discussed the development of learn how to make it work for us. their spare parts website as viewed from the viewpoint of this American watchmaker. In the beginning, the lan- The old system guage of the website was French. As the years went by worked well for us as they gradually improved the website and added two consumers of watch languages, first English then German. It was there that spare parts, but they I came to learn that ETA had a dual numbering system did not work well for for their spare parts. They simultaneously used the old the factory. Because standard “Talking Number” system and their own, in- many ETA parts are house, six-digit factory numbering system. interchangeable across their move- The “Talking Number” system is the one watchmak- ment lines, the same part could have multiple part ref- ers around the world generally use and combines the erences indicating each movement utilizing that part. standard Swiss nomenclature with the Swiss num- It reminded me of when watchmakers would stock bering system developed several generations ago by genuine parts for 6 ¾ X 8 ligne Bulova, Wittnauer, and Ebauche SA, a group of movement manufacturers Fontainmelon movements, oftentimes not realizing which became part of Swatch Group. Each part for an these were the same movements with mostly inter- Ebauche Swiss watch movement has a standard name changeable parts, although the three companies used and number. For instance, all winding and setting part three different part reference systems. numbers are made up of three digits and start with the digit 4. Therefore, any watch part number beginning In order to make their own system more rational, ETA with 4 is a setting part. For example, part 443 is a set developed an alternative six-digit, in house, factory lever (detent in American nomenclature). numbering system. Every distinct movement part has its own part reference that conveys no other intrinsic Swatch Group’s movement manufacturing division, information other than it is a part number. In the fac- known as ETA, continued with “Talking Numbers” for tory, the set lever mentioned above is 167737, and the all parts of the movements they manufactured until factory database recognizes it as a set lever they use in multiple movements. Until the end of last year, we operated with the above system. ETA sold parts utilizing the six-digit factory reference and material dealers sold them to watchmakers by their talking number. The six-digit numbering system is understood only by the factory that made the move- ments and parts, and by those in the industry who used those movements and parts.

About eight years ago, the representative from ETA told me that eventually ETA was going to discontinue the old “Talking Num- ber” system and replace it with the new Global Trade Item Number (GTIN) system. GTIN numbers are unique product identifi- ers assigned to any product or service. A bar code that encompasses the GTIN will identify the product, its manufacturer, and the coun-

12 Horological Times February 2013 from the workshop

try of origin to anyone who has access to the GTIN The ETA announcement stated, “We are prepared database. This is especially important to manufactur- for the future, as speaking numbering systems will ers and distributors who supply products worldwide always reach their limits at some point.” ETA obvi- to countries with different languages, import regula- ously believes it will continue to be a major player in tions, restrictions and duties. the industry long into the future and has upgraded its inventory and computer systems to accommodate its The ETA representative did not provide a transition long-term future growth. date other than it was sometime in the future. Of course, I put that conversation into my memory bank ETA’s downloadable technical documents will now and seldom gave it any further thought. That was until have all of the new part references along with the early in December 2012, when ETA notified us that ef- old “Talking Numbers” and standard nomenclature. fective 1/1/2013, Talking Numbers were entirely gone Change is always stressful and this new numbering from their system. Their factory six-digit number or system will certainly cause some “Agita” for watch- their new GTIN reference now identifies all ETA spare makers and their material dealers. This is a done deal parts. The ETA parts ordering website, accessed by in Switzerland so we need to go along with the new material dealers all over the world, is totally devoid of program. If all goes according to the plan, we should the familiar old “Talking Number” system. The old ETA be able to have our spare parts orders filled accu- identifier, 443.2801, a set lever, is now 7613226048171. rately the first time, every time. Obviously, Swatch The name has not changed; it is still a set lever. This Group believes in the old saying, “Silence is Golden” new numbering system tells us nothing at all about and sees a golden future in silencing the old “Talking the part it represents. It is simply a unique identifier of Number” system. t a watch part, who made it, and its country of origin.

Horological Times February 2013 13 technical discussions BY JORDAN FICKLIN, CW21

Removing the old ball bearing unit is the easy part. The Omega You don’t need to worry about damaging the old pin- ion. Simply clamp down on it and cut away at the rivet of the ball bearing until it comes free. Be careful not Oscillating Weight, to damage the weight, taking care in much the same way you would for the balance wheel when removing Caliber 1150 a staff. One Technique for Replacing a Installing the new ball bearing unit is a little more diffi- cult. Be careful not to damage the pinion. You need to Non-Interchangeable Oscillat- put a large amount of pressure on the ball bearing unit ing Weight Bearing to burnish over the edge. Because of this, it needs to be supported from behind. You can’t really use a shel- erhaps you have noticed that there are two ver- lac chuck because you don’t want to get any shellac sions of ball bearing units for oscillating weights or glue, or whatever substance used for attachment Pon the ETA 7750. (See Figure 1.) The standard around the ball bearings. If you are lucky enough to version is held in place with a spring clip which can have just the right step chuck then you are in business. easily be removed and replaced with a simple tool. I haven’t been so lucky. You simply unlock the spring clip, remove the old ball bearing unit, insert a new one, and lock it in place. In order to support the ball bearing unit and keep it from spinning, I turned a rod of brass the same diam- Omega uses a different eter as the pinion. I faced off the end so it would be system where the ball perpendicular to the axis of rotation. Next, I pass this bearing is riveted, or bur- rod through the center of my 3-jaw chuck and rest nished, into the weight. the ball bearing unit up against it so it just protrudes While many of the com- enough for the oscillating weight to hang on its seat. ponents in the Omega When I tighten down the drawbar of the lathe, it holds 1150 are interchangeable the brass rod securely and engages the teeth of the with the ETA 7750, the pinion just enough to keep it from falling out or spin- oscillating weight bear- ning. Yet, it does not put enough pressure to dam- ing is not. The diam- age the pinion leaves. (You may need to adjust the Figure 1: An ETA 7750 weight. eter of the pinion on the diameter of your rod slightly to create just the right Omega version is differ- amount of pressure.) ent than the standard ETA version. The ball bearing is available from Omega (72211501497) and from some With the bearing supported in the lathe, place the oscil- material houses for considerably less than the typical lating weight in position (Figure 2). When the oscillat- $220 oscillating weight cost, but you’ll need to have a technique for replacing it.

The following is just one technique. I have found it to work well for me, but you may have others which also get the job done. To replace the ball bearing in the weight I use the lathe. First, I cut out the old bearing. It is necessary to support the weight in the lathe by the pinion with the top face of the weight facing out. There are several options for supporting the weight. The diameter of the pinion is approximately 6.15 mm which makes using a collet somewhat difficult on a small 8 mm lathe. You can use a 3-jaw or 6-jaw chuck, or you could make a special jig to hold the weight if you do this procedure often.

Figure 2: The lathe set up.

14 Horological Times February 2013 ing weight is placed on its seat it will spin Tampa, FL freely, hanging down, Your Horological Source Since 1969 even as you turn on the lathe. With an oval burnisher, ap- Mineral Glass Crystal Assortment ply pressure towards Assort No. Description the outside diameter MG08-100 100 Pieces, 0.8mm Thick MG10-100 100 Pieces, 1.0mmThick of the ball bearing MG15-100 40 Pieces, 1.5mm Thick unit and towards the MG20-100 40 Pieces, 2.0mm Thick lathe. As the metal MG25-100 40 Pieces, 2.5mm Thick begins to burnish over and form a lip Your Choice $55.00 over the weight at- taching it to the bear- ing, the weight will catch and begin spin- Figure 3: The burnishing process. ning with the lathe. At this point, it is neces- sary to burnish the metal a little more for Extra Large Watch Crystals security (Figure 3). To check the tight- ♥ 3.5mm & 4.0mm Thicknesses! ness of the burnish- ing, lock the head- ♥ Diameters up to 55mm Round! stock of the lathe Style Thick Diameter Increment Each 3+ 12+ and grip the weight in your hands. You MG08 0.8mm 10.0 – 33.0 0.1 $1.25 $0.85 $0.75 should not be able MG10 1.0mm 10.0 – 45.0 0.1 $1.25 $0.85 $0.75 to spin the weight TMG15 1.5mm 15.0 – 30.0 0.1 $2.50 $2.00 $1.50 on the bearing. Ad- 30.1 – 35.0 0.1 $2.75 $2.20 $1.65 ditionally, as shown in 35.5 – 45.0 0.5 $3.00 $2.40 $1.80 Figure 4, the finished TMG20 2.0mm 16.0 – 45.0 0.1 $3.00 $2.40 $1.80 surface will be bright Figure 4: When finished, the bearing will 45.5 – 50.0 0.5 $4.00 $3.20 $2.40 shine like the original. and polished, just like the original. t 50.5 – 55.0 0.5 $4.50 $3.60 $2.70 TMG25 2.5mm 17.0 – 45.0 0.5 $3.00 $2.40 $1.80 35.5 – 50.0 0.5 $5.00 $4.00 $3.00 50.5 – 55.0 0.5 $6.00 $4.80 $3.60 IDEAS? COMMENTS? THOUGHTS? TMG30 3.0mm 18.0 – 45.0 0.5 $3.00 $2.40 $1.80 45.5 – 55.0 0.5 $6.00 $4.80 $3.60 This is an excellent example of a technical problem TMG35 3.5mm 25.0 – 35.0 0.5 $4.50 $3.60 $2.70 being solved. Have you encountered a similar issue 35.5 – 45.0 0.5 $5.00 $4.00 $3.00 that you have solved? Share it with our readers. TMG40 4.0mm 35.0 – 38.0 0.5 $7.00 $5.60 $4.20 Send your articles to:

Amy Dunn, Editor Horological Times AWCI, 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, Ohio 45030 Prices subject to change without notice. 02/13 [email protected] Phone Orders (800) 476-2715 Fax Orders (800) 476-8016 Email: [email protected] Online Catalog: www.LivesaysInc.com

Horological Times February 2013 15 questions & answers By David Christianson, CMW21, FAWI QUESTION: was available between the upper and lower move- ment plates. He goes on to tell us that each Geneva This is an 18-size GA Fehrs or Febrsold pocket watch. company would have their finest craftsman make The English is hard to read but it appears to be: Man- such watches. But it is the story behind this particular itowoe, Wis. Could you provide information on this watch that makes it even more interesting. watch? I need to find a staff for it. The movement retaining ring is signed by Eduard John Ingram Jaeger, successor to A. L. Berthoud, horological ex- Oklahoma City, Oklahoma pert to the French Navy. I could not find anything on A. L. Berthoud, other than a brief mention in Theodore ANSWER: Gribi’s A Practical Course in Adjusting, 1901. Theo. Gribi was an eminent Swiss horologist at the turn of The watch is an 18-size Seth the 20th century. He noted that A. L. Berthoud was Thomas model #2 made, ac- a descendent of the illustrious chronometer-maker, cording to the serial num- Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807), probably three gen- ber, in 1887. As you know, erations removed. the local jeweler could have his name placed on the Ed. Jaeger (born in 1850 in Andlau, France) was the watch and, as such, ensure Jaeger in the firm of Jaeger–LeCoultre. By his own the quality of the watch to right, Jaeger was a well-known and accomplished his customer using his own chronometer-maker and a state-appointed watch- good name in the commu- maker who went on to supply the French Navy and nity. Air Force with various time recording instruments during WWI. Gustav Karl Fehrs started the first jewelry store in In 1906 he set up his watch repair shop in Rue St-Sau- Manitowoc, Wisconsin, in vern in Paris. By 1914 he was found on Rue Reaumur 1855 with a full-line offering and in 1917, his company had moved to Rue Louvre. of watches and jewelry. His Because of his affiliation with the French government son, G.A. Fehrs, continued and military, he had gained a very wealthy clientele. the business known as Fehrs He became a distributor of high-grade watches and Jewelry Store and it is his name and reputation that jewelry in Geneva and Paris, using Le Coultre move- are on the watch. ments in his own watch cases.

In 1900 Jacques-David Le Coultre met Eduard Jae- QUESTION: ger. By 1903, they had formed a business relationship. Jaeger was already cooperating with Cartier, the luxu- Can you tell me the background of this slim-line ry product maker and Le Coultre was primarily known watch with a Swiss bar movement? as a movement manufacturer for Christopher Carrier Patek-Philippe, Reno, Nevada Audemars Pi- ANSWER: quet, Vacheron Constantin, and Your watch is a thin, high quality Swiss bar move- other high-end ment in a thin case “designed for the discriminating watchmakers. buyer to be worn with formal evening attire” (Henry This partnership Fried), circa 1920. Henry also tells us that, in mak- opened the way ing these thin watches, the slightest error in planting into the luxury each bearing (absolutely on the same vertical axis as market for Le the one below) would cause one wheel to rub against Coultre, using its overlapping partner wheel because so little space their own name

16 Horological Times February 2013 questions & answers By David Christianson, CMW21, FAWI on their own products instead of anonymously pack- ment store serving New York, Pennsylvania and New aging their watch movements into other manufactur- Jersey. Most of their stores converted to the Macy’s er’s products. chain of department stores in 2001.

Your watch was originally sold by Stern Brothers of Ref: Tardy, Dictionnaire des Hologers Francais, 1971. New York as noted on the movement ring and case. Zaf Basha, Jaeger-LeCoultre: a guide for the collector, 2008. Stern Brothers was founded in 1867 as a dry goods Kathleen H. Pritchard, Swiss Timepiece Makers: 1775-1975, 1997. store in Buffalo, New York. They moved to New York Henry B. Fried, The Museum of the American Watchmakers City in 1868 and evolved into an important merchan- dising family. By the time your watch was sold, Stern Institute, 1993. Brothers had become a distinguished regional depart- Wikipedia

Send your Questions to Horological Times 701 Enterprise Dr. Harrison, Ohio 45030 [email protected] 866-367-2924, ext. 307

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Horological Times February 2013 17 industry news

that were designed to meet government stan- Chelsea Clock dards for maximum dura- Announces bility and customization. It was during World War II when Chelsea Clock estab- Heirloom-Quality lished its reputation as “Time Keep- ers of the Sea,” producing more in Timepieces four war years than during the company’s entire life Celebrating the of production. In 1943, Chelsea was one of very few companies American Spirit presented with a prestigious “E” helsea Clock introduces a collection of time- award by the U.S. pieces created expressly for the United government. This States Marine Corps, each bearing the official C recognition was Marine’s insignia. The medallion is crafted from solid for manufacturing brass, brilliantly colored with hard enamel and pol- excellence for its ished to a satin finish. efficient produc- The United States government was one of Chelsea tion of military Clock’s earliest, largest and most important custom- clocks. t ers, turning to Chelsea for time-keeping instruments

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18 Horological Times February 2013 industry news Swatch Group Announces another Year of Growth

n 2012, the Swatch Group exceeded its eight-billion- franc target for gross sales. In an economic environ- Iment that remained nervous, the Group increased gross sales by 14.0% to CHF 8 143 million, one billion CHF more than in 2011.

Summary: • Gross sales increases by one billion to CHF 8 143 mil- lion, up 14% on 2011 • Net income rises 26% to CHF 1 608 million. • Operating profit amounts to CHF 1 984 million, a rise of 22.9% compared with 2011. • Operating margin increases from 23.9% to 25.4%. • Around 1,500 new jobs were created in 2012 bringing total personnel worldwide to 29,700. • Added Harry Winston to the brand portfolio.

Outlook for 2013

The signals from the markets around the world clearly in- dicate continued healthy growth potential for the Swiss watch industry and the Swatch Group. As always, the focus is on producing innovative and high-quality Swiss products in every segment. Against this backdrop, there is a realistic prospect of long-term growth in the Swiss watch industry of 5%-10% per year. t

Did You Know? You can get quick feedback on parts and other information you need by joining the AWCI forums? Sign up at: www.awci.com/forums/

Horological Times February 2013 19 industry news

extensive testing by an independent Swiss laboratory to give users the power to personally fine tune their Bulova Accutron watches to maintain 99.99% accuracy. With this intro- duction, Bulova Accutron is transforming the bound- External Fine aries of mechanical watch accuracy.” The dial of the Calibrator includes an easy-to-read ad- justment gauge, located at the nine o’clock position Adjustment System that allows owners to visually track each individual modification as they adjust for timing accuracy. The Revolutionary Advance Raises Standards for gauge is an arched track with a mi- Maintaining Timekeeping Excellence nus symbol at the top of the arch representing a slower speed, and ulova has developed the world’s first and only a plus symbol at the bottom rep- External Fine Adjustment System (EFAS). It resenting a faster speed. There Bis a novel advance in timekeeping accuracy, are three notches going first introduced in the Bulova Accutron Calibrator. up and down, each rep- Setting a new standard in individualized timekeep- resenting an adjustment ing, this development lets watch owners control the of five seconds per day. The fine tuning is facili- accuracy of their mechanical watches, maintaining tated by an external key 99.99% accuracy simply and without the need for that fits into a port on technical help. the side of the timepiece, letting the user adjust “As a company committed to design and innovation, the length of the hair- Bulova is proud to introduce this unique advance in spring to optimize accu- timekeeping accuracy,” said Dennis W. Perry, Bulova racy on an individual ba- Corporation President. “The Bulova Accutron Calibra- sis, with each adjustment tor with External Fine Adjustment System is an im- visible on the regulator portant proprietary technological advance, shown in gauge. t Richemont North America

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DISCOVER YOUR WEBSITE Part 2

This series will give you hints and tips on the many services available on www.awci.com. We have recently updated some areas of the website to make managing your AWCI membership easier than ever.

MEMBER LOGON Click at top of Home Page Logon: Use your Membership No. Password: Your Membership No. & First Letter of Last Name Capitalized (change password at any time)

NOTE: Our new system requires that passwords have at least 6 characters. Some members may have 4 or 5-digit member numbers so you must add 1 or 2 zeros at the begin- ning to make the 6-digit minimum. EXAMPLE: Website Password for a 4-Digit Member Number of 2345: use your member # member # + first letter of last name capitalized Member Number for Logon: 2345 Password (6 characters needed): 02345K (if last name begins with K)

POST YOUR RESUME FOR FREE Members can post resumes for free on our Career Center for potential employers to see. Just sign up for a free JobSeeker account to post your resume.

24 Horological Times February 2013 education & certificationawci news

MANAGE YOUR MEMBERSHIP FROM ONE SCREEN • Update your info when you have a change of address, etc. • Create or update your free Directory Listing. You have 350 characters to describe your services. The more you include, the more likely consumers are to contact you. • We’ve had nearly 100,000 clicks into these Directory Listings this past year! • Check out AWCI business programs, like our new hotel discounts!

OVER 2,000 TECH GUIDES ONLINE We have watchmaker tech guides and links posted, and we are currently working on clockmaker technical informa- tion. To reach this area go to: • For Watchmakers-Clockmakers • For the Watchmaker • Scroll down and click on: Technical Guides and Requests • Once inside, the tech guides are organized by brand, then caliber in folders

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Horological Times February 2013 25 ask huck By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Reprinted from the “Ask Huck” Series, December, 1998, Horological Times The Clockmaker’s The Desire to Bench Build a Clock Question Question I would like to design and build a clock. How do I What do you consider to be a good clockmaker’s start? workbench? Answer Answer This is a very popular endeavor in England, but not I don’t really know what an ideal bench is like, having so commonly found in the United States. The Brit- never owned one. I do know that the watchmaker’s ish Horological Institute’s (BHI) Horological Journal bench is not suitable, because I have a fine one. Ev- from England has had many clock building articles in erything is wrong for the clockmaker. the past few years. It takes about a year to cover an entire project. Here is what I use, not the best, but quite workable: Two benches placed end-to-end make up a total size I’ve built a clock for each of my five grandchildren, of 2’ x 8’. These have particle board tops with a small and am thinking about more. Here is how I started. tool rack at the back side. Height is 34” and I usually Study every movement you see, pick out its merits, work with a piece of poster card on the surface. The and identify features you like and dislike. In time you chair is a pair of stools two feet high. will fix a mental criteria for your project. Start by mak- ing a scale drawing of each piece. Draw in the same I prefer my major tools to be set off when not in use. order that you expect to make the pieces. Construct Six lathes are on stand-alone bases that set the spin- each part in your mind. How will I hold the raw mate- dle about 7” above the bench top. These dimensions rial? What tolerance must be held on dimensions? approximately fit my body size and range of vision. Don’t fail to make an assembly drawing in three di- Drill press, grinder, cleaning equipment, tools and mensions. Be sure every part is properly sized before supplies, etc., are placed separately. However, I’m it is made. Make some freehand isometric sketches much like Mr. J. E. Coleman, who always referred to of all pieces, in exploded-view his workbench as “the 144,” just one square foot of form. Be sure you haven’t paint- active workspace. ed yourself in a corner when the pieces are ready to Lighting is from a multi-tube overhead fixture, assemble. Keep all of a bench lamp with a circular tube and large your drawings; they magnifier, and a couple of incandescent will be of historic val- lamps. Some incandescent or natural light ue. Determine that is needed for lathe work to avoid strobo- you have, or can scopic effect from the tube-type lighting. obtain, all of the material, tools, etc., Working on a poster card is an easy way before you begin. to keep the bench clean, improve vision and soften the glare of brighter lights. There is no clock as Some of the pastel colors are more pleas- valuable as one of ing to my eye. your own design and construction. You’ll be The key to success is learning to use what you a genuine clockmaker. t have, efficiently.

26 Horological Times February 2013 affiliate chapter news

Future Meetings and Topics for Put Your Company Message Minnesota Clockmakers Guild: Front and Center on the Web

AWCI’s Website has Over 9,000 Visitors a Month… March 7, 2013 Hands on reaming and bushing installation - bring the tools you …And vistorship grows every day! Place your com- use today and a plate and pinion to pany message in front of an audience looking for demonstrate with watch and clock repair information. We offer rotat- April 4, 2013 Tower clock Installation and main- ing banner ads, and if you’re an HT advertiser, you tenance by Elroy Anderson qualify for combo discounts. For more informa- May 4, 2013 Joint symposium with MCG/MWCA tion contact Amy Dunn at 866-367-2924, ext. 307, [email protected]. June 6, 2013 Sherline lathe tips and fixtures by Jeff Pomeroy

For more information contact: Secretary: Dean Ziegenbein - 952-322-4776, [email protected]

Mention You’re an AWCI member and WE WILL DONATE .1% of each sale to the ELM Trust!

CALL OR EMAIL FOR DAILY PRICING DID YOU KNOW? (855) 243-8724, [email protected] Global Battery Buyers, Watch Battery Buyers and Battery Buyers (on page 32) all offer programs Batteries - Silver Oxide Polishing Per LB Paying 2.2x silver where part of your earnings can be donated to the ELM TRUST, if so desired. You may want to check out what each of these battery recyclers has to offer.

You’ll not only be helping the environment, you’ll be earning money, and you can assist with the chari- TOP DOLLAR PAID table projects of the ELM TRUST. Starting price per lb $60 & up Call for price

Payout Examples 2.2x LONDON WE PAY PER SILVER FIX POUND (LB) Call for free UPS $28.80 $63.36 shipping label $33.75 $74.25 AWCI and the ELM $38.85 $85.47 Trust provide this $43.46 $95.61 information as a service only and $48.34 $106.34 do not endorse nor 7131 Perri Lane Brooklyn, NY 11234 verify the business practices of any particular company.

Horological Times February 2013 27 education & certification 2013 Courses and Certification Exam Schedule I wanted to take this opportunity to thank [Tom Schomaker] for all the help and instruction this past week. Having learned through an apprenticeship, I missed out on much of the theory needed to be a good “watchmaker, especially on escapement and timing theory. I have to say, I learned more about how to diagnose various timing issues in this one week than I did throughout my entire apprenticeship.

Student attending a Balance Staffing and Timing Class

Advanced 21 Series classes (5 CEUs each) are offered only to current CW21 and CMW21s.

2013

March 11 - 15 - Advanced 21 Series – Caliber 3035 April 8 - 12- Advanced 21 Series – Caliber 3035 May 13 - 17- Advanced 21 Series – TBA June 17 - 21 - Advanced 21 Series – TBA July 22 - 26- Advanced 21 Series – TBA August 19 - 23- Advanced 21 Series – TBA September 16 - 20- Advanced 21 Series – TBA

5-day block: $1000.00

AWCI Academy of Watchmaking 2013 Mar 4 - 8 Quartz Watch Repair & Testing (5 CEUs) Mar 18 - 22 Basic Watch Repair April 1 - 5 Modern Mechanical Chronograph (5 CEUs) May 6 - 10 Industry Class - (5 CEUs) June 10 - 14 Polishing & Refinishing (5 CEUs)

5-day block: $1000.00

CW21 Exam Schedule - 2013 We are currently re-evaluating our examination schedule for the remainder of the year. Please visit the www.awci.com website for information on classes and exams.

SIGN UP EARLY! We reserve the right to cancel a class if there are less than six participants signed up 30 days prior to the first day of class, so we encourage you to wait before making travel or hotel arrangements until this deadline has passed. If in doubt, please contact Daniela Ott at 866-367-2924, ext. 303. TO REGISTER FOR CLASSES OR EXAMS, please call toll-free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected]. 28 Horological Times February 2013 Committee Volunteers

The President of AWCI will appoint committee members for scal year 2013-2014. AWCI relies heavily on its committees to establish and implement goals for the year. If you have time and talent to spare, consider volunteering to serve. The committees listed below are those which are currently established in either the AWCI Constitution or Bylaws. Please indicate the committee(s) for which you are qualied in the order of preference. PLEASE VOLUNTEER!

Constitution & Bylaws Committee Convention Committee

Finance Committee Marketing Committee

Nominating Committee for AWCI Board Honor Awards Committee

Education Committee Strategic Action Committee

Horological Times Committee Ethics Committee

Internet Forum Committee

Name AWCI Membership Number

Address

City State Zip/Postal Code

Phone (home) Phone (business)

Fax E-mail

Please give a brief explanation of your qualifications to serve on committee(s) selected

Just tell us your interests then send this to: Fax: 513-367-1414 * E-mail: [email protected]

Or, simply go to www.awci.com and click on About Us and complete the Committee Volunteer Form.

Horological Times February 2013 29 industryclassified news ads

OPPORTUNITY, MADISON, WI clock classes Leading jeweler and only authorized Rolex jeweler and Clock Repair, Making & Designing by Laurie Penman repair facility in Madison, WI., known for quality and phi- Laurie Penman’s Correspondence Course has run since lanthropy, seeks Century 21 (CW21) Certified watchmaker. 1990. One-to-one tuition, 24/7 distance instruction and Offers competitive compensation and benefits. Madison help by Internet and Skype. enjoys a moderate cost-of-living and was voted “One of No time limit on individual courses. £550. the ten most livable cities in the US.” Contact John Hayes: 608-257-3644, Classes in the gorgeous English countryside. [email protected]. EOE One student £800, Two £450 ea. Three £330 ea. Mid-day meal included. Watchmaker Needed - LIVE & WORK IN PARADISE Details: [email protected] Little Switzerland is one of the largest Caribbean-based retailers of fine jewelry and timepieces. We sell Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega, Cartier, Rado, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil, Movado and more. Must have completed for sale factory training and certification by at least one of the following: WOSTEP, Breitling, Omega, Tag Heuer or Cartier. Order On Line 24/7 Full watch service facility located in St. Thomas, USVI. To apply, email resume to [email protected]. We inventory 1000’s of keys, pendulums, dials, hands, bezels & Seeking Certified Watchmaker – Las Vegas dial pans, chime rods Servicing 2 busy repair shops in Las Vegas: & gongs, clock chain & cable, cuckoo parts, * Need certified watchmaker with excellent communica- clock glass, glass tion skills domes, fasteners, * 5-10 years experience and working experience with verges & wheels, barometer parts, Gold Pocket Watch Featured in HT luxury brands Atmos style tools & * Strong attention to detail with the ability to handle material, ultrasonic Beautiful condition, heavy 14K gold decorative case, Swiss 17 cleaners, mainsprings, ligne, high quality movement by Agassiz & Fils, circa 1885. Miss- multiple tasks quartz & mechanical ing a hairspring. Read more in Nov. HT in Q & A (Q#1 pg. 32 – 33). * Ability to work in fast-paced environment movements, electric Call for pricing: 724-866-7547 * Strong diagnostic skills movements, tools, * Excellent communication skills products, batteries, * Instructional abilities books, suspension springs, clocks, Rolex & Other Parts & Equipment For Sale Contact: [email protected] cleaning solutions, Portescap Mark V Ultrasonic Watch Cleaner - $495.00 / Witschi lubricants, & more. Cyclonic Tester - $145.00 / Vibrograf Dry Water Tester - $450.00 / Watch Technician - Albany, NY Vibrograf B600 Watch Timing Machine - $1200.00 / (2) Vibrograf For nearly a century, Frank Adams Jewelers has lead the Timesavers B200 - $175.00 each / Rolex Tools & Parts & Misc. Items – Call / jewelry industry in New York’s capital city and worked Box 12700 • Scottsdale, AZ 85267 • USA Neycraft Casting Machine - $200.00 / Small Burn-Out Oven - to build their family name to become, ‘Albany’s Finest’. Phone: 480-483-3711 • Fax:480-483-6116 $195.00. Call Bill (916) 765-8288, Sacramento, CA [email protected] • www.timesavers.com We seek a full time watch technician to work in a luxury Our 172 page illustrated catalog #37 is free online retail location. Our ideal candidate must be proficient or only $5 in North America for a printed copy. in all watch repair including Rolex, Cartier and Omega. help wanted Interested candidates please send resume to Watchmaker Wanted, NYC [email protected]. PARTS - CIRCUITS - MOVEMENTS A legendary watch repair business located in the heart Including but not limited to calibers 201.001, 210.001, 950.001, of New York City is seeking a watchmaker to work on all GREAT OPPORTUNITY 959.001. We also have parts for ETA, ESA, AS, FEF, FHF, UNITAS, major brands. Must be proficient in all phases of vintage FELSA and other calibers. mechanical movements. Experience with ETA mechanical For Graduate Watchmaker in Sarasota, FL. Over 20 [email protected] movements preferred. Great opportunity to join a long jewelry stores in area need help with professional established, fast-growing business. Grand Central Station watch service. Many accounts already secured. Op- Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books & DVDs location, state-of-the-art equipment, very competitive portunity to establish yourself - be your own boss. by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849. Phone compensation. Please contact Steve Kivel at Contact George: 941-223-9329, [email protected]. 865-947-9671; www.wrsmithclocks.com [email protected] or 212-685-1689 x4. Watchmaker Needed - LIVE & WORK IN PARADISE Little Switzerland is one of the largest Caribbean-based retailers of fine jewelry and timepieces. We sell Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega, Cartier, Rado, Baume & Mercier, LIKE US ON Raymond Weil, Movado and more. Must have completed factory training and certification by at least one of the FACEBOOK ! following: WOSTEP, Breitling, Omega, Tag Heuer of Cartier. Full watch service facility located in St. Thomas, USVI. To apply, email resume to [email protected]. American Watchmakers- SEEKING CW21 IN NEWPORT BEACH, CA Clockmakers Institute Established watch service company seeking CW21 to perform luxury brand watch service and repair. We have all the latest equipment. Must be expert in mechanical chronograph move- ments including Rolex. Competitive salary. Contact: www.facebook.com/My AWCI [email protected] or 949-650-7777.

30 Horological Times February 2013 classified ads

help wanted tradesmen ANNOUNCING NEW 2013 WATCHMAKER NEEDED, LINCOLNWOOD, IL Watch Parts Fabrication: CLASSIFIED POLICY Glezer-Kraus Inc. is looking for a Watchmaker whose I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern. responsibilities will be, but are not limited to: Quartz overhaul, MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 AWCI will hold our HT classified advertising refinishing and polishing, basic service and estimating. Contact: www.henningwatches.com [email protected] or fax resume to: 847-673-8052 fees to the same rates and minimum schedule Larry Blanchard, CMW21 as last year. The only element that is chang- CW21 NEEDED FOR EXPANDING COMPANY IN MO At Palmer’s Jewelry Meierotto Midwest Jewelers is a family business, founded 1979. 101 East Sycamore St., Kokomo, IN 46901 ing is the preferred form of payment. We Financially stable and EXPANDING. State-of-the-art watch repair Phone (800) 207-1251 • Fax (765) 457-8517 request that you put all classified advertis- facility. Over 50 authorized brands. Adding third watchmaker. E-mail: [email protected] Service wide variety of timepieces. Receive factory training. Facebook.com/palmerjewelry ing on a credit card. We accept MasterCard, Continuing with service of tuning fork Accutron, vintage Visa, American Express and Discover. If you Responsibilities: Timepiece repair requiring extensive product American and fine Swiss watches. knowledge and application of CW21 competencies, including require a physical invoice and 30-day terms, diagnosis, service and quality control. Exhibit AWCI’s code of FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST your rates will be higher due to the additional ethics and highest standards of workmanship. CW21 and 2 years’ 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 costs incurred in labor, supplies and carrying experience. Apply at: RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 • CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI http://www.mjewelry.com/Careers/Watchmaker.aspx www.fendley-cox.com charges. Full-time Watchmaker Needed, South Houston, TX MAINSPRINGS CW21 certification required for luxury independent retail store Clock and music box - All sizes. HT Classified Rates for 2013: with competitive salary and benefits. Saturdays required. Email Custom made. Brass gear blanks. resume to: [email protected] or call 281-332-8433 Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) For Credit Card Payments… Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected] IMMEDIATE OPENING FOR CW21 IN HUNTINGTON, NY • $1.10 per word and $1.50 per bold word Watch repair center needs CW21 for luxury watch repairs. Can be HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH RESTORATION • Classified “Display” ads with art/borders: full time or part time with flexible hours. Contact Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and 631-499-8800, [email protected]. 505 Electric watches. René Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, $47.50 per col. inch (2.25” wide) Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 924-6534 • Color – additional $15.00 per ad RICHEMONT HAS OPENINGS IN 4 CITIES FOR CERTIFIED WATCHMAKERS www.hamiltonwristwatch.com Richemont is seeking talented and qualified Watchmakers • Blind ads – additional $15.00 per ad for opportunities in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, and BEARINGS Dallas-Fort Worth. Qualifications include: AWCI 21st Century We will install our patent pending ButterBearings™ in your chain Watchmaker or WOSTEP certification, 5-10 years experience wound movement. These bearings reduce friction by over 90% For Paper Invoicing… working with luxury brands, and more. Please see page 21 for and come with a lifetime warranty. • $1.20 per word and $1.65 per bold word a complete description of these opportunities with Richemont For details contact: Butterworth Clocks, Inc. North America, Inc. 5300 59th Ave. W., Muscatine IA 52761 tel 563.263.6759 • Classified “Display” ads with art/borders: fax 563.263.0428 email [email protected] $52.25 per col. inch (2.25” wide) Seeking Watchmaker - Live & Work in Sunny FL Seeking seasoned and experienced watchmaker to manage and Service/Sales of Timing and Cleaning Machines • Color – additional $16.50 per ad head up watch repair operations. Perform thorough and compre- Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster • Blind ads – additional $16.50 per ad hensive physical and mechanical inspections, testing and diagnosis Over 14 years experience of incoming watches for After Sales Service. Perform all manner Quick repairs & reasonable prices of repairs; maintenance, cleaning and or overhauls on watches www.timemachinerepair.com Minimum Schedule: 3-Month Minimum received at the workshop and maintain a clean, neat, organized Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or [email protected] Advertising studies show it takes over 3 workshop including the work areas, equipment and tools. Long- viewings for readers to recognize specifics in term position for the right person. E-mail resume to HT magazine: DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, [email protected] (please insert in subject line: HTwtc) quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet your ad. positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032; Deadline: 50 days before first of month for situations wanted (253) 852-5125 month you plan to run Clockmaker DENNIS KAYE Example: If you want your ad to run in June, Experienced seeking full time permanent situation. 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 have your ad text or artwork to us by April For more information contact AWCI at: [email protected], 888-363-9510 • 540-SERVICE 12th. Note: If you place a recruitment ad on 866-367-2924, ext. 307. Porcelain Dial Restoration the www.awci.com Career Center as a combo Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock online/HT ad, there’s no need to resend the WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN Platform Escapement Repair 30 years experience ad to us. The website system is automatic. Horology School Graduate Atmos Parts & Service Please contact John 400-Day Clock Repair [email protected] To Place Your Ad Contact: Kundo Coil / Electric Clock Service Sandy Eichert, 866-367-2924, ext. 302, Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ [email protected] Large Supply of Watch Movements & Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com

Horological Times February 2013 31 classified ads tradesmen services ATMOS Service/Repair Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor Buying Gold-Plated Watchbands $20 lb. & Up! 314-968-1010/877-437-1774, Clockmaster, Inc. – Robert Good Gold filled $100 lb & up to $500 lb .Chains excluded. 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, Missouri 63144 Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired).

LASER WELDING REPAIR Reconstruction of watch cases, bands (gold and two tone), BUYERS antique mountings, welding, cracked or broken clock arbors, FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP hands and other metal parts. All aspects of jewelry repair. PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY 877-670-7799 Joel Lefaive (520) 579-8668 [email protected] • watchbatterybuyers.com We also fit glass crystals to Openface, hunting, and English chain drive watches. ROLEX PARTS WANTED Complete watches, dials, wanted to buy movements, case springs for sale Buying genuine Rolex WANTED TO BUY crowns,crystals,bracelets,dials and parts,new Want to buy good used watch cleaning machine. Ultrasonic option G F Specialties not mandatory. Contact info with pictures to Richard at QLTYWATCH@ or vintage. Also buying Rolex dealer catalogs 1-800-351-6926 aol.com. Located in Southern California. and displays. Email [email protected] or P.O. Box 170216 call 617.742.0221 Milwaukee, WI 53217 WE BUY WATCHES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Breitling, Audemars, www.gfspecialties.com Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS WANTED: USED SILVER OXIDE BATTERIES Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 200 watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of Payout: $60/lb. and up for used silver oxide batteries. Free Repair | Restoration secured shipping & pickup. Payment issued immediately. You their accumulations. When you’re really ready to sell, we’re can DONATE all or portion of EARNINGS TO AWCI’S ELM TRUST ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327-3306. Ask as tax write off. For details contact: [email protected] for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected] 800-764-7458 • www.batterybuyers.com Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts Paying for Valjoux 69,72,88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $300, Get $60 lb—And UP! Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Movado 90,95 $300.00. Also For Used Silver Oxide Batteries buying high-grade movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle, Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired). 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401, 1-866-877-8164, [email protected]. All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ BUYERS chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778 Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Le Coultre FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP Vacheron - AP - Etc. PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals, 877-670-7799 Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, [email protected] • watchbatterybuyers.com ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! We are Factory Authorized Service for: Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 • Greiner VIBROGRAF • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R WANTED WATCH BOXES We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Buy - Sell - Trade WANTED! recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. We want most major brands. Also buying high-end Entire Watch Collections 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Scrap Watchbands Used Equipment Bought & Sold Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap For Information Top prices paid Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap (415) 479-8960 for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold www.electronicinstrumentservice.com fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608 return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC Visit our website for more information 29401. Established 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073 www.specialtymetalsrefiners.com HAMILTON 505 BALANCE COMPLETES WANTED Specialty Metals Creating Solutions Paying $20 each. Must have good coils/hairsprings. Worn- 2490 Black Rock Tpke. out contacts okay. René Rondeau, PO Box 391, Corte Madra, Fairfield, CT 06825 CA 94976. [email protected]. 203-366-2500 - Local 800-884-7966 - Fax [email protected]

Member: Jewelers Board of Trade

32 Horological Times February 2013 awci directory

BOARD OF DIRECTORS ADVERTISER’S INDEX Fellows Officers *Robert F. Bishop Borel & Co., Jules Manuel Yazijian, CMW21: President *James H. Broughton (816) 421-6110 inside front cover [email protected] Fred S. Burckhardt Butterworth Clocks, Inc. Alice B. Carpenter Wes Grau, CMW21: Vice President (563) 263-6759 ...... 7 Affiliate Chapter Director David A. Christianson [email protected] *George Daniels Cas-Ker Co. Wes Door (513) 674-7700 ...... 13 Henry Kessler: Treasurer [email protected] Jerry Faier Chronos *Henry B. Fried (303) 296-1600...... 24 David Douglas, CW21: Secretary *Josephine F. Hagans [email protected] *Orville R. Hagans Clocks Magazine Acting Past President *Ewell D. Hartman 011 44 131 331 3200 ...... 17 Dennis Warner: President *Harold J. Herman Global Battery Buyers J.M. Huckabee (855) 243-8724 ...... 27 Directors *Gerald G. Jaeger Tom Nesbit, CW21 Jack Kurdzionak Greiner Vibrograf [email protected] *Benjamin Matz greinervibrograf.ch ...... 19 Fred White, CMW21 *Robert A. Nelson Livesay’s, Inc. [email protected] *Hamilton E. Pease (813) 229-2715 ...... 15 Archie B. Perkins Michal Blaszczyk, CW21 Antoine Simonin Renata [email protected] William O. Smith, Jr. (800) 527-0719 ...... back cover Ron Landberg, CW21 Milton C. Stevens Richemont North America [email protected] *Marvin E. Whitney *Deceased richemont.com ...... 21 Jordan Ficklin, CW21 Watch Around [email protected] American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute watch-around.com ...... 17 Justin Shiver, CW21 701 Enterprise Dr. Wm. S. McCaw Company [email protected] Harrison, OH 45030 (800) 537-0343 ...... 20 Jason Ziegenbein, CW21, REC Director Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI • 513-367-9800 Witschi Electronic Ltd. [email protected] Fax: 513-367-1414 011 32 352 05 00 ...... 18 Terry Kurdzionak, IAB Director [email protected] • www.awci.com [email protected] WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the Institute and the industry.

Movado Group Inc. Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373 www.crtime.com

Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373 www.crtime.com

Simon Golub & Sons, Inc. Electra Steam

SWISS WATCH SERVICE GROUP, SWISStime care, Inc. PTRC Inc. INC.

Horological Times February 2013 33 0213 HT Esslinger_ol.indd 1 1/30/13 10:53 AM