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Buenos Ayres-- Ride Through the Pampas--Winter Journey Across the Cordilleras--Chili--Valparaiso--California and the Gold Fields

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Buenos Ayres-- Ride Through the Pampas--Winter Journey Across the Cordilleras--Chili--Valparaiso--California and the Gold Fields Gerstäcker's travels. Rio de Janeiro--Buenos Ayres-- Ride through the pampas--Winter journey across the Cordilleras--Chili--Valparaiso--California and the gold fields. Tr. from the German of Frederick Gerstäcker GERSTäCKER's TRAVELS. RIO DE JANEIRO—BUENOS AYRES—RIDE THROUGH THE PAMPAS— WINTER JOURNEY ACROSS THE CORDILLERAS—CHILI—VALPARAISO— CALIFORNIA AND THE GOLD FIELDS. Translated from the German OF FREDERICK GERSTäCKER. London: T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW; AND EDINBURGH. MDCCCLIV. CONTENTS. Gerstäcker's travels. Rio de Janeiro--Buenos Ayres--Ride through the pampas--Winter journey across the Cordilleras--Chili-- Valparaiso--California and the gold fields. Tr. from the German of Frederick Gerstäcker http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.110 Page CHAPTER I. The Passage Out—On Board the Talisman, in the Weser, March 18, 1849, 9 CHAPTER II. Rio de Janeiro, 16 CHAPTER III. Sail from Rio de Janeiro to Buenos Ayres, 27 CHAPTER IV. Buenos Ayres and its Environs, 31 CHAPTER V. Ride over the Pampas, 63 CHAPTER VI. The Pampas, 73 CHAPTER VII. A Winter Journey across the Cordilleras, 96 CHAPTER VIII. Valparaiso, 116 CHAPTER IX. A Stroll through the Streets of the Town, 120 CHAPTER X. A Night in the Cemetery at Valparaiso, 130 CHAPTER XI. San Francisco in the Autumn of 1849, 138 viii CHAPTER XII. A Trip to the Californian Diggings during the Rainy Season, 146 CHAPTER XIII. Drawbacks, 166 CHAPTER XIV. Return to Sacramento City, 172 CHAPTER XV. Mission Dolores, 184 CHAPTER XVI. A Digger's Life, 200 CHAPTER XVII. Murphy's New Diggings, 222 CHAPTER XVIII. The Mosquito Gulch, 242 CHAPTER XIX. Departure from the Diggings— Stockton—San Francisco 261 CHAPTER XX. Conclusion, 277 CHAPTER I. THE PASSAGE OUT—ON BOARD THE TALISMAN, IN THE WESER, MARCH 18, 1849. OUR passengers for California (for the Talisman is bound directly for San Francisco) form together a most remarkable and really interesting group. They are nearly all of them young men, who proceed to that adventurous life of the newly discovered El Dorado, with as bright and golden dreams as ever beguiled any alchymist in his gloomy cell. Not one woman nor child is among them; most of them, especially the steerage passengers, come on board armed to the teeth, many of them in a sufficiently ludicrous manner. Thus, yesterday one came from the steamboat to the Talisman with a gun, a spade, and a cotton umbrella. “I dare-say you intend to get out the gold with this spade?” a sailor asked him. “Well, you do not wish me to scratch it out with my hands?” answered the man quite seriously. Most of them carry spades with them; besides which, lots of old sabres, pistols, daggers, guns, and other arms, make their appearance, as if an arsenal had been plundered, or as if an armoury of military antiquities were to be furnished. Gerstäcker's travels. Rio de Janeiro--Buenos Ayres--Ride through the pampas--Winter journey across the Cordilleras--Chili-- Valparaiso--California and the gold fields. Tr. from the German of Frederick Gerstäcker http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.110 One character I must not pass over in silence, who, not only among us, but in the whole of Bremen, has created considerable sensation. He is a cutler from Magdeburg, called on board only “the giant;” and he is likewise going to emigrate to California. 10 Let the reader imagine to himself an Herculean figure of colossal frame, with a curled beard, ruddy cheeks, and bright good-tempered looking eyes, only a little too portly; a man, therefore, who would have been conspicuous by his size alone, but who attracted still greater notice by his dress and accoutrements: a green blouse, light trousers, and a gray wide-awake; round the body, a white leathern belt five inches broad, from which were dangling a huge broadsword dragging noisily on the pavement, and besides it, a cutlass; and, moreover, a clasp-knife about eighteen inches long; and as if this were not enough, there were sticking in it pistols and a dagger, the handle of which served as a pocket pistol. The wild and ludicrous effect of his appearance was still further heightened by the companions of our hero. These were three diminutive individuals, here called “the satellites,” who sport round their huge leader as the pilot-fish does round the shark. These three little fellows likewise wear green blouses, wide-awakes, and white belts; they look exactly like young giants, only, that instead of the broadsword, very short knives or cutlasses adorned their sides. I have not seen anything half so odd for many years. Emigration seems this year to go on at a greater rate than ever. Bremen is literally swarming with emigrants from all parts of Germany, and every train brings new masses, for the conveyance of which express trains are often required. The steamboats of the Weser, in their regular journeys, are no longer sufficient to carry all the passengers to their ships and to the other harbours; so that even the steam-tugs are employed for passenger traffic, a thing which had not been necessary in any preceding year. Our ship, the Talisman, is a stout barque of 180 tons, and is said to be a good sailer. The captain, still a young man, sails for the first time as actual commander of a vessel. The supercargo has seen long service at sea; the cabin passengers seem nearly all to belong to the educated classes; there is, therefore, every prospect (wind and weather permitting) of an agreeable and quick passage. Gerstäcker's travels. Rio de Janeiro--Buenos Ayres--Ride through the pampas--Winter journey across the Cordilleras--Chili-- Valparaiso--California and the gold fields. Tr. from the German of Frederick Gerstäcker http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.110 The emigrants to California seem, however, to have crowded 11 in only since this vessel was fitted out for sea; so that part of her cargo is to be left behind. The firm Heydorn & Co., who propose to send several other ships after the Talisman, intend to establish a branch business in San Francisco under the name of Pajeken, Frisius, & Co. Mr. Clement Pajeken goes out with the Talisman, and Mr. Frisius as supercargo with the Gesina. Last evening the new German war-steamer Britannia, anchored not far from us, near Brake. With pride and joy I saw the black, red, and golden flag hoisted on board of her. May it triumph over all its enemies at home and abroad! At last came the cheerful news that we should set sail, or if not favoured by the wind, at least float down with the ebb towards the mouth of the Weser. On the same evening we scudded down the river. But alas! we had again to cast anchor for the night, and the wind played us the same trick the next day. Reports of renewed hostilities with Denmark gave us pretty good reason for apprehending an interruption of our journey, unless we should succeed in reaching the channel before the cessation of the truce. As our fleet was at that time only in its cradle (I did not then imagine that on my return I should already find it in its shroud), the Danish cruisers might have caused us a very ugly disappointment. After our leaving the Weser, the wind became fresher and more favourable, and we ran before it at the rate of about seven or eight knots an hour. It was on Thursday, at seven o'clock in the evening, that we entered the German Ocean; on Friday evening at dusk we already saw the lights of Dover, and on the 25th reached the mouth of the British Channel. The same kind breeze carried us to the latitude of the Island of Madeira, which, however, we did not get a sight of. Here we fell in with the north-eastern trade wind, which promised us a quick passage to the nearest place of our destination, or at least was calculated speedily to bring us to the equator. Our voyage offered very little interesting matter. On the 13th of April we came in sight 12 of the rugged, sterile, treeless hills Gerstäcker's travels. Rio de Janeiro--Buenos Ayres--Ride through the pampas--Winter journey across the Cordilleras--Chili-- Valparaiso--California and the gold fields. Tr. from the German of Frederick Gerstäcker http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.110 of one of the Cape de Verde Islands; it was San Nicolao. On the next morning we passed the lofty volcano of the Island of Fogo, the slopes of which were beautifully lit up by the rising sun. It is a bare colossal cone, without the least vegetation; we were able to descry only one human dwelling at the foot of the mountain. We now briskly advanced towards the equator, and on the 15th of April, according to old usage, the visit of the sea-god Neptune was announced by his noble spouse Amphitrite, who came on deck in company of “Neptune's barber,” as was written on the back of this worshipful personage. They inquired of the captain at what time Neptune might himself make his appearance, to ask for his due; and they were appointed for that day week, when we expected to be very near the line. On the 22d of April, being pretty nearly under the equator, Neptune, accompanied by his spouse and his barber, made his appearance on deck, and was kindly received by the captain. The god (who, we may remark by the way, looked somewhat shabby) first addressed the captain in the English tongue, as being most familiar to him; and then turned to the passengers who were standing round in somewhat anxious expectation.
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