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Plan Your Trip 12 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bangkok

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Austin Bush, Tim Bewer, Anita Isalska, Andy Symington Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to Bangkok...... 4 Top Itineraries...... 18 Drinking & Nightlife..... 35 Bangkok’s Top 10...... 6 If You Like...... 20 Entertainment...... 39 What’s New...... 13 Month by Month...... 22 Shopping...... 43 Need to Know...... 14 With Kids...... 24 Sports & Activities..... 48 First Time Bangkok...... 16 Eating...... 26 LGBT Bangkok...... 52

Explore Bangkok 54

Neighbourhoods Chinatown...... 98 Sukhumvit ...... 142 at a Glance ...... 56 Siam Square, Northern Bangkok...... 156 Ko Ratanakosin Pratunam, Phloen Chit Excursions & Thonburi...... 58 & Ratchathewi...... 108 from Bangkok...... 167 Banglamphu...... 77 Riverside, Silom & Lumphini ...... 125 Sleeping...... 189 Thewet & Dusit...... 90

Understand Bangkok 205

Bangkok Today...... 206 People & Culture...... 218 The Sex Industry in Thailand...... 231 History...... 208 Food & Drink...... 225

Survival Guide 235

Transport...... 236 Language...... 248 Directory A-Z...... 241 Index...... 255

Bangkok Maps 263 PATCHRA SUTTIVIRAT / SHUTTERSTOCK © OUTCAST85 / GETTY IMAGES © t i v m 42 u 1 h

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Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58) Siam Square, Pratunam, M Get up as early as you can and take Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108) the Chao Phraya Express Boat north M Take the BTS (Skytrain) to National to Chang Pier to explore one of Ko Ratana- Stadium and start your day with a kosin’s museums, such as the Museum of visit to the popular and worthwhile museum Siam, as well as one of its must-see temples, that is Jim Thompson House. Follow this like Wat Pho. by exploring the nearby canalside neighbourhood of Baan Khrua or by paying your Lunch Plunge headfirst into Bangkok- respects at the Erawan Shrine. style street food at Pa Aew (p74). Lunch MBK Food Island (p115) is a Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125) tasty introduction to Thai food. Refresh with a spa treatment at R Health Land or soothe those over- Siam Square, Pratunam, worked legs with a traditional Thai massage Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108) at Ruen-Nuad Massage Studio. After Walk, or let the BTS escort you, freshening up, get a new perspective on R through Bangkok’s ultramodern Bangkok with a sunset rooftop cocktail at commercial district, stopping off at linked Moon Bar. shopping centres, including MBK Center, Siam Discovery, Siam Paragon and Siam Dinner nahm (p133) serves what is Square. Make time for a sweet snack at arguably the best Thai food in Bangkok, Gourmet Paradise or an air-conditioned afternoon cuppa at the Erawan Tea Room. Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125) If you’ve still got it in you, head over Dinner Dip into refined Thai dishes in a N to DJ Station, Telephone Pub or likewise setting at Saneh Jaan (p116). any of the other bars and clubs in Bangkok’s small but lively gaybourhood. For a night Northern Bangkok (p156) that doesn’t end until the sun comes up, If it’s Tuesday, Friday or Saturday, bang on the door at Wong’s Place. N consider catching a Thai-boxing match at Lumpinee Boxing Stadium, or if it’s Friday or Saturday, make a point of schlepping over to eastern Bangkok’s RCA/ Royal City Ave to check out the clubs such as Route 66 or Onyx. 19 UTHAICHUTIVIPAPORN /SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Erawan Shrine (p112)

Day Three Day Four To p I ti n Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58) Northern Bangkok (p156)

Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat If it’s a weekend, take the BTS e M M r to Chang Pier and set off on a long- north for a half day of shopping a r tail boat tour of Thonburi’s canals. Alter- at the Chatuchak Weekend Market. ies natively, combine canals and the culinary Otherwise, consider a half-day excursion arts with a visit to Amita Thai Cooking outside the city to the provincial-feeling Class. Nonthaburi Market, the artificial island of Ko Kret or the re-created ruins at Lunch Take advantage of the air-con Ancient City. and spicy Thai dishes at Err (p74). Lunch Chatuchak Weekend Market (p158) has cheap and tasty food stalls.

Banglamphu (p77) Spend the afternoon shopping at R the Th Khao San Market and Chinatown (p98) visiting the surrounding sights, such as Recover from the market in the the Golden Mount and Wat Suthat. Or, R relative cool of the late afternoon if you’ve got energy to spare, book an af- before taking the MRT (metro) to China- ternoon or nighttime bike tour of the area town to visit the home of the Golden Bud- dha, Wat Traimit, and the Chinese-style Dinner Take a temporary break from Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Consider Thai food at Jidori Cuisine Ken (p147). popping over to Phahurat to sample that neighbourhood’s South Asian feel or,

with an outfit such as Velo Thailand or Dinner Follow our walking tour (p102) Grasshopper Adventures. of Chinatown’s best street eats.

Sukhumvit (p142) if you’re there after dark, the nocturnal End the night with a Thai-themed flower market at Pak Khlong Talat. N cocktail at a cosy local, such as WTF or Badmotel, or a craft beer at Hair of the Dog. If it’s still too early for Banglamphu (p77) you to turn in, extend the night with a visit Make the brief taxi ride to to a club like Glow or Beam. N Banglamphu and begin the even- ing with drinks at Madame Musur, followed by a rowdy live-music show at Brick Bar or dancing at the Club. If bedtime is irrelevant, head for the rooftop ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 254

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

travel writer wriggle free from a prematurely locked WRITER THANKS temple ground. Thanks always to Normal Matt for Austin Bush crackly Skype calls and support. A big thanks to Destination Editors Dora Ball and Clifton Wilkinson, as well as to all the people on the Andy Symington ground in Bangkok and northern Thailand. A great number of people, from taxi drivers to information officers, gave me excellent advice and help Tim Bewer along the way; I’m very grateful to all of them. Specific A hearty kòrp jai lăi lăi dêu to the perpetually friendly thanks go to Siriporn Chiangpoon, Ian on Ko Chang, people of Isan who rarely failed to live up to their Maitri in Si Racha, Chayanan in Chanthaburi and the reputation for friendliness and hospitality when faced friendly Ang Sila volunteers. with my incessant questions, in particular Prapaporn Sompakdee (especially for her crispy pork expertise) ACKNOWLEDGMENTS and Julian Wright. Special thanks to my wife Suttawan. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Anita Isalska BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Big thanks to everyone who helped me on my travels Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and in Thailand. Gratitude to Sai and Anna for the warm Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. welcome and insights into the wild west, to the Illustrations pp62–3 and pp66–7 by Michael Weldon. Tourism Authority of Thailand team in Kanchanaburi, and to Tim Bewer for helpful suggestions. I’d also like Cover photograph: Murals depicting scenes from the to thank the kids in Lopburi who helped this perplexed life of Buddha, Wat Pho, Jason Langley/AWL ©

Product Editors Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie THIS BOOK Rachel Rawling, Kate Chapman Nicholson, Lou McGregor, This 13th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographers Lauren O’Connell, Tamara Planet’s Bangkok guidebook Diana Von Holdt, Mark Griffiths Sheward was researched and written by Book Designer Cover Researcher Austin Bush, Tim Bewer, Anita Virginia Moreno Naomi Parker Isalska and Andy Symington. Assisting Editors Thanks to Austin Bush wrote the previ- Judith Bamber, Imogen Hannah Cartmel, Robin Daus, ous two editions. Bannister, Michelle Coxall, Grace Dobell, Keith A Liker, Destination Editors Melanie Dankel, Andrea Charlotte Orr, Kathryn Rowan, Tanya Parker, Dora Ball, Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Jennifer Wibowo Rusli, Vicky Smith Clifton Wilkinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P258 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P259 3 ENTERTAINMENT P260 7 SHOPPING P260 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P261 Index 4 SLEEPING P261

7-Elevens 140 Assumption Cathedral 127 cooking courses 12, 31, 100 Tonson Gallery 114 ATMs 243-4 C 50, 12 cabaret 39-40 Ayuthaya Historical Park costs 14, 190 canal trips 49, 76 168-71, 170, 168 counterfeits 44-5 A car travel 240 courses 50, 51, see also accommodation 15, 189, cell phones 14, 246 cooking courses, see also Sleeping B Chang Chui 161 Sports & Activities subindex Baan Khrua 113 subindex Banglamphu 191, 192-5 Chatuchak 286-7 Baiyoke Tower II 114-15 credit cards 244 Chinatown 191, 195-7 Chatuchak Weekend bà·mèe 28, 28 Market 9, 158-60, 160, culture 206-7, 218-24, 230 Dusit 191, 195 Ban Baat 79-80 9, 43, 158 currency 14, 244 Ko Ratanakosin 191, 192 Bangkok Art & Culture children, travel with 24-5, curries 227 language 249 Centre 112 51, 161 customs regulations Lumphini 191, 198-201 Bangkok CityCity Gallery chemists 243 230, 241 Northern Bangkok 191, 13, 128 Children’s Discovery cycling 48, 50, 51 203-4 Bangkok University Art Museum 161 Phloen Chit 191, 197-8 Gallery 145 Chinatown 9, 57, 98-107, Pratunam 191, 197-8 Banglamphu 6, 56-7, 77- 272-3, 9, 17 D Ratchathewi 191, 197-8 89, 77, 268-9 accommodation 191, dance 41, 223-4, 3, 5, 39 Riverside 191, 198-201 accommodation 191, 195-7 dance clubs 36, 38, 53, Siam Square 191, 197-8 192-5 drinking & entertainment see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex Silom 191, 198-201 drinking & nightlife 78, 99, 107 84-5 dangers, see safety, scams Sukhumvit 191, 201-3 food 99, 104-7 entertainment 85, 87 highlights 98-9, 100 Death Railway Bridge Thewet 191, 195 (Kanchanaburi) 182 food 78, 82-4 shopping 106 Thonburi 191, 192 debit cards 244 highlights 77-8, 80, 82 sights 100-4 activities 22-3, 48-51, also democracy 211-12 see Sports & Activities shopping 78, 87 transport 99 subindex sights 79-82 Democracy Monument walks 102, 102 81-2 AIDS 233, 242 sports & activities 87-9 Chinese cuisine 27 demographics 218 air pollution 242 walks 86, 86 Chinese influence 219 dentists 243 air travel 236-7 Bangkokian Museum 127 Chinese New Year 22 desserts 34 ambulance 242 bargaining 17, 44 Chitlada Palace 95-6 disabilities, travellers with bars 36, see also Drinking Amphawa 175-7 Chulalongkorn University 246-7 & Nightlife subindex Amulet Market 70-1 115 discount cards 245 Ananta Samakhom Throne beaches 172-3 Church of Santa Cruz 101 dôm yam 28, 28 Hall 94 beer 37, 229 Chuvit Garden 144 domestic calls 245 animism 219 Benjakiti Park 144-5 cinemas 39, 223, see also bicycle travel 49, 50, 51 Don Hoi Lot (Amphawa) antiques 44, 47 films 176 boat travel 21, 238-9 architecture 21 climate 15, 22-3 Dream World 161 books 206, 219, 221 area codes 242 climate change 236 dress codes 36 Brahmanism 220-1 art 221 clothing 16, 36, 47 drinks 37, 47, 229-30 Artist’s House 71 Buddhism 219-20 etiquette 70 Dusit 57, 90-7, 270 budgeting 14, 34, 47 clubs 36, 38, 53, see also accommodation 191, bus travel 236, 237, 240 Drinking & Nightlife 195 subindex Sights 000 business hours 40, 44 drinking & nightlife 97 cocktails 38 Map Pages entertainment 97 000 constitutions 215 Photo Pages food 96-7 000 consulates 241-2 256 Dusit continued Golden Mount & Wat Kanchanaburi sights 129 highlights 90-1, 92-3 Saket 82 War Cemetery sports & activities sights 92-6 golf 48 (Kanchanaburi) 183-4 140-1 transport 91 Grand Palace 64-8 Kathmandu transport 126 Photo Gallery 128 Dusit Palace Park 92-3, gyms 48 Lumphini Park 129 92 Khao Laem Ya/Mu Ko Dusit Zoo 94 Samet National Park INDEX INDEX H (Ko Samet) 172-88 M E H Gallery 128 Khao San Rd 88, 6, 30 macaques 180 economy 206-7 handicrafts 47 Khao Yai 187-8 Mae Nam Chao Phraya D 10, - embassies 241-2 health 242 Khao Yai Art Museum 10 N emergencies 242 heat 242 (Khao Yai) 187 Mahakan Fort 81 language 251 Hellfire Pass Memorial Khao Yai National Park malls 45, 47 (Khao Yai) 187 entertainment 39-42, see (Kanchanaburi) 185 maps 263-87 also Entertainment Heritage Walking Street Khlong Toey Market 144 markets 30, 45, 47 subindex (Kanchanaburi) 185 King Buddhalertla massage 48, 51 Erawan National Park history 208-17 (Phuttha Loet La) courses 50 Naphalai Memorial (Kanchanaburi) 185 Chakri Dynasty 208-9 measures 245 Park (Amphawa) 176 Erawan Shrine 112-13 European influence media 245 King Prajadhipok etiquette 17 209-11 Museum 79 medical services 243 food 230 military rule 215-17 Ko Kret 162 meditation 49 public transport 237 people’s constitution mobile phones 14, 246 212-13 Ko Ratanakosin 56, 265 events 22-3 monarchy 221 WWII 211-12 accommodation 191, exchange rates 244 money 14, 17, 190, 243-4 HIV 233, 242 192 moo·ay tai 40-1, 49, 51 holidays 244-5 drinking & nightlife 59, 75 motorcycle taxis 239 F Holy Rosary Church 103 entertainment 75 MR Kukrit festivals 22-3, 52 homewares 47 food 59, 74-5 Pramoj House 127 films 39, 206, 223 hospitals 243 fires 242 highlights 58-9, 60-9 Museum of Contempo- Hualamphong Train rary Art 161 Fireflies Guided Tours sights 60-74 Station 101, 103 Museum of Siam 70 (Amphawa) 176 human trafficking 234 sports & activities 75-6 fish sauce 226 transport 59 museums 21, 24-5 music 222-3 flu 242 Ko Samet 172-5, 174 Muslim cuisine 27-30 food 6, 20-1, 26, 26, 27, I kôw mòk 28, 29 identification 36 30, 33, see also Eat- kôw soy 28, 29 illegal activities 231-4 ing subindex, individ- N ual neighbourhoods immigration 218 National Gallery 73 brunch 148 insurance 242 L National Library 94 lâhp 28, 29 dinner cruises 132 international calls 245-6 National Museum 71 Lak Meuang 73 language 249 internet access 242-3 neighbourhoods 20 language 14, 17, 248-53 noodles 84 internet resources 14, Neilson Hays Library 129 36, 40, 44, 49, 53, courses 50 vegetarian 83 newspapers 53, 245 food courts 30-1 190, 245 legal matters 231-4, 243 itineraries 18-19 nightlife 35-38, 135, foreign cuisine 34 LGBT travellers 52-3, see also Drinking & free activities 21 136, 243 Nightlife subindex, fruit 227 J life expectancy 218 individual neighbour- Jamjuree Art Gallery 115 Lingam Shrine 113 hoods Japaness Village 147 live music 40 Nonthaburi Market 161 G Loi Krathong 23 noodles 32, 226 gaang kĕe·o wăhn 28, JEATH War Museum 29 (Kanchanaburi) 185 Lumphini 57, 125-41, Northern Bangkok 57, Gallery VER 128 jewellery 44 277, 125 156-66, 156 gay travellers 52-3, 136, accommodation 191, accommodation 191, 243 Jim Thompson House 9, 110-11, 9, 110 198-201 203-4 gems 44 jogging 48 drinking & nightlife drinking & nightlife 157, go-go bars 40 126, 137 164-5 entertainment 137 entertainment 165 K food 126, 133-4 food 157, 162-4 Sights 000 Kaeng Krachan National highlights 125-6, 127, highlights 156-7, Map Pages 000 Park (Petchaburi) 129 158-60 180-1 Photo Pages 000 shopping 126, 137-40 shopping 157, 165 Kanchanaburi 182-7, 183 257 sights 158-62 36, 40, 44, 49, 53, river trips 49 sports & activities sports & activities 166 190, 245 Riverside 57, 125-41, 123-4 transport 157 repeat visitors 13 125, 280 transport 109 Number 1 Gallery 128 travel seasons 15, 22-3 accommodation 191, walks 120, 120 Numthong Gallery 161 websites 14-15 198-201 Silom 57, 125-41, 125, playgrounds 24 drinking & nightlife 278-9

police 242 126, 134 accommodation 191, INDEX O politics 206-7 entertainment 137 198-201 October 14 Memorial 81 pollution 242 food 126, 129-31 drinking & nightlife Old Customs House 127 polygamy 210 highlights 125-6, 127, 126, 134-7 N opening hours 40, 44, 244 129 - population 207, 218 entertainment 137 T Or Tor Kor Market 161-2 shopping 126, 137-40 postal services 244 food 126, 131-3 sights 127-9 Pratunam 57, 108-24, highlights 125-6, 127, sports & activities 129 108, 274-5 P 140-1 packing list 16 accommodation 191, shopping 126, 137-40 transport 126 Pak Khlong Talat 101 197-8 sights 127-9 rooftop bars 35-8, 38, parks & gardens 24 drinking & nightlife sports & activities 140-1 109, 118-19 see also Drinking & transport 126 pàt pàk bûng fai daang Nightlife subindex, in- Silpakorn University 74 28, 29 entertainment 119-21 dividual neighbour- pàt tai 28, 29 food 109, 115-18 hoods Silpakorn University Art Centre 71 Patpong 138 highlights 108-9, 110- Royal Barges National 11, 112 Siriraj Medical Phahurat 103, 272-3 Museum 72 shopping 109, 121-3 Museum 70 Phahuyut 95 Royal City Ave 163 sights 110-15 smoking 36, 245 pharmacies 243 royal cuisine 27 sports & activities sôm·đam 28, 28 Phetchaburi (Phetburi) rum 37 123-4 Songkran 11, 22, 11 178-82, 179 transport 109 soups 227 Phloen Chit 57, 108-24, prostitution 231-4 S 108, 274-5 souvenirs 47 public holidays 244-5 safety 16, 245 spas 48, 51, 154 accommodation 191, salads 227 197-8 spirits 229 Sampeng Lane 103 drinking & nightlife sports 48-51, see also Q Sanam Luang 71-2 Sights & Activities 109, 118-19 Queen Saovabha Sao Ching-Cha 80 subindex entertainment 119-21 Memorial Institute 129 food 109, 115-18 Saranrom Royal Garden Sri Mariamman Temple 72-3 128-9 highlights 108-9, 110- 11, 112 R Sathon Unique Tower 130 stir-fries 227 shopping 109, 121-3 Rama V Memorial 94 scams 44, 245 street food 31, 34, 3, 6 sights 110-15 Ratchadamnoen sex industry 231-4 stupas 220 Contemporary Art Shinawatra, Thaksin 213 Suan Pakkad Palace sports & activities Center 79 123-4 shophouses 30 Museum 112 Ratchathewi 57, 108-24, transport 109 shopping 10, 43-7, Subhashok The Arts 108, 271 Centre 144 Phra Nakhon Khiri Histori- see also markets, accommodation 191, Shopping subindex, Sukhumvit 57, 142-55, cal Park (Phetchaburi) 197-8 178 individual neighbour- 142, 282-3 drinking & nightlife hoods accommodation 191, Phra Ram Ratchaniwet 109, 118-19 (Phetchaburi) 180 language 251 201-3 entertainment 119-21 Phra Sumen Fort & Santi Siam Park City 161 drinking & nightlife Chai Prakan Park 81 food 109, 115-18 Siam Society & 143, 149-52 pilates 48 highlights 108-9, 110- Kamthieng House 144 entertainment 152-3 11, 112 planning 16-17 Siam Square 57, 108-24, food 143, 145-9 shopping 109, 121-3 274-5, , Bangkok basics 14-15 108 274-5 highlights 142-3, 144 sights 110-15 accommodation 191, Bangkok’s neighbour- shopping 153-5 sports & activities 197-8 hoods 56, 56-7 sights 144-5 123-4 drinking & nightlife budgeting 14, 34, 47 sports & activities 155 transport 109 109, 118-19 children, travel with transport 143 RCA entertainment 119-21 24-5, 51, 161 287 sweets 228 food 109, 115-18 festivals & events refunds 46, 245 22-3, 52 religion 219-21 highlights 108-9, 110- 11, 112 itineraries 18-19 rice 226 T shopping 109, 121-3 tailoring 45-6, 47 internet resources 14, rice whisky 37 sights 110-15 Talat Mai 101 258 Talat Noi 101 tours 49 Tang Contemporary T-pop 223 Y F Art 115 train travel 236, 237 yam 28, 29 Food Loft 116 tap water 242 transgender people 52 YELO House 113 Food Republic 116 taxes 46, 245 travel to Bangkok 15, yoga 48 FoodPark 116 taxis 72, 151, 236, 237, 236-8 Fou de Joie 13, 105

INDEX INDEX 238 travel within Bangkok 15 Fuji Super 147 telephone services 14, túk-túk 239-40 5 EATING 242, 245-6 10 O’Clock G

EATING temples 21, see also (Kanchanaburi) 186 individual wáts V Gaa 116 80/20 105 etiquette 70 Vegetarian Festival 23, Game Over 146 103 Gateway Ekamai 147 Th Ratchadaphisek 287 vegetarian travellers 83, Thai boxing 40-1, 49, 51 A Ginza Sushi-Ichi 116-17 103, 229-30 Thai people 218-24 Amphawa Floating Ginzado 147 Victory Monument 115 Market (Amphawa) Thailand Creative & Gokfayuen 145 views 38 176 Design Center 127 Gourmet Paradise 116 visas 14, 247 Anotai 164 Thailand-Burma Railway visual arts 221 Appia 147-8 Centre (Kanchanaburi) H 182-3 Arawy Vegetarian Food 83 Hazel’s Ice Cream Parlor Tham Khao Luang and Fine Drinks 13 (Phetchaburi) 180 W walking 240 B Hemlock 83 Thammasat University 73 walking tours Baan Nual 83 Hoon Kuang 105 Thanon Bamrung Baan Pueng Chom 163 Meuang Religious Banglamphu 86, 86 Shops 79 Chinatown 102, 102 Bangkok Poutine 83 I Thavibu Art Gallery 128 Siam Square 120, 120 Bei Otto 148 Imoya 147 theatre 41, 223-4 Wat Amphawan Bharani 145 In Love 96 Theravada Buddhism 219 Chetiyaram Blue Rice Indian Hut 131 (Amphawa) 176 (Kanchanaburi) 185 Thewet 57, 90-7, 270 Indigo 132 Wat Arun 69, 55 Bo.lan 148 accommodation 191, Ippudo 147 195 Wat Benchamabophit 94 Bonita Cafe & Social Club 132 Issaya Siamese Club 134 drinking & nightlife Wat Bowonniwet 79 91, 97 Wat Mahathat Worawihan Boon Tong Kiat Singa- pore Chicken Rice 145 entertainment 97 (Phetchaburi) 178 J Bunker 133 food 91, 96-7 Wat Mangkon Jay Fa 83-4 Kamalawat 101 highlights 90-1, 92-3 Jay So 131 sights 92-3, 94-6 Wat Pho 12, 60-3, 12, 60 C Jek Meng (Phetchaburi) 181 transport 91 Wat Phra Kaew 64-8, 3 Cabbages & Condoms 147 Wat Phra Si Sanphet Jep’s Restaurant Thonburi 56, 265 168 Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Wat Ratchanatdaram 80 Mixology 146 (Ko Samet) 173 accommodation 191, Jidori Cuisine Ken 147 192 Wat Saket Fair 23 Chawang 74 drinking & nightlife Wat Suthat 80 Chennai Kitchen 131 59, 75 Wat Traimit (Golden China House 130 K food 59, 74-5 Buddha) 100, 100 Chote Chitr 83 Kai Thort Jay Kee 133 highlights 58-9, 60-9 Wat Yai Suwannaram Coca Suki 118 Kalapapruek 132 sights 60-74 (Phetchaburi) 180 Cucina (Phetchaburi) 181 Kaloang Home Kitchen 96 sports & activities 75-6 wáts 220 Kaobahn 162-3 water 242 transport 59 D Karim Roti-Mataba 82 weather 15, 22-3 time 14, 246 Daimasu 131 Keeree Tara tipping 16, 17, 244 websites 14, 36, 40, 44, (Kanchanaburi) 186 49, 53, 190, 245 Daniel Thaiger 145-6 toilets 246 Khinlom Chom weights 245 Dao Tai 74 Sa-Phan 96 tourist information 14, Din Tai Fung 115 246 whisky 37 Khrua Khao Yai tourist police 242 wineries 188 (Khao Yai) 188 women in Bangkok 231-4 E Khua Kling Pak Sod 163 women travellers 247 Eat Me 132 Khun Daeng 84 Khun Yah Cuisine 104 Sights 000 WWII 211-12 Eathai 116 Kimleng 82 Map Pages 000 Erawan Tea Room 117 Kitt & Food Photo Pages Err 74-5 000 (Ko Samet) 173 259 Klang Soi Restaurant 145 Thanon Phadungdao Koko 117 Q Seafood Stalls 105-6 F Krua Apsorn 83, 96 Quince 148 The Commons 13, 148 Fake Club The Next Gen 164-5 Krua ‘Aroy-Aroy’ 131 Thip Samai 82 Fatbird 164 R Tonkin-Annam 13, 74 Toy 116 Foreign Correspondents’ L Rabieng Rimnam Club of Thailand 119 (Phetchaburi) 181 INDEX La Monita 117 Rang Mahal 148 L’Atelier de Joël W Robuchon 133 Rarb 84 Wang Lang Market 74 G

G Bangkok 136 DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE Le Normandie 130 Red Ginger (Ko Samet) 173 Glow 150 Library Cafe Y (Kanchanaburi) 186 Roma Sausage (Khao Yai) 188 Yaek Kut Kha Night Likhit Kai Yang 96 H Royal India 106 Market (Khao Yai) 188 Little Beast 148 Hair of the Dog 118 Ruam Tai 74 Yang Gao Gorn 163-4 Lord Jim’s 131 Yusup 162 Hanakaruta 137 Havana Social Club 150-1 M S Hazel’s Ice Cream Parlor Sala Rattanakosin Eatery & Fine Drinks 97 Marriott Café 148 6 DRINKING & & Bar 75 Hippie de Bar 85 May Kaidee’s 83 NIGHTLIFE Samsara 106-7 Hyde & Seek 118 MBK Food Island 115 Saneh Jaan 13, 116 Ming Lee 74 Sanguan Sri 118 A Muslim Restaurant I Saras 145 A R Sutton & Co 129-30 Iron Fairies 152 Savoey 75 Engineers Siam 149 Myeong Ga 149 Scandinavian Smorgaas Above 11 151 Buffet 148 Amorosa 75 J N Seafood Restaurants Aree 164 J Boroski Mixology 150 nahm 133 (Amphawa) 176 Audi Bar (Ko Samet) 173 Jham Jun 85 Nai Mong Hoi Thod 104 Seven Spoons 96 Shoshana 83 Nang Loeng Market 96 B K Soi 10 Food Centres 131 Nasir Al-Masri 149 Ba Hao 105 Ku Bar 13, 84 Navy Club 75 Somboon Seafood 133 Badmotel 150 Nay Hong 104 Somsong Balcony 136 Phochana 84 L Nay Lék Ûan 104 Banana Bar on 4 136 Somtam Convent 131 Lava Gold 85 Never Ending Beam 150 Somtam Nua 117 Levels 151 Summer 130 Black Amber Nirai-Kanai 147 Soul Food Social Club 151 Long Table 152 Nuer Koo 115 Mahanakorn 145 Nuttaporn 82 Soy 84 M Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin 118 C Madame Musur 85 Sri Trat 13, 145 Casa Azul 164 Madrid 135 O Steve Café & Cuisine 96 Cé La Vi 137 Old Siam Plaza 104-5 Maggie Choo’s 135 Sugar Member Ceresia 135 Mikkeller 149 On’s Thai-Issan (Kanchanaburi) 186 Club Insanity 152 (Kanchanaburi) 185 Mixx 119 Sunday Jazzy Brunch 148 Co-Co Walk 119 Supanniga Commé 85 Moon Bar 135, 35 P Eating Room 146-7 Craft 137 Pa Aew 74 Sushi Tsukiji 131 N Paper Butter & the D Namsaah Bottling Trust Burger 164 135 T Demo 151 Pathé 118 Narz 152 Talat Taa Rot Tua DJ Station 136 Peppina 146 Nung-Len 152 (Phetchaburi) 181 Duangthawee Plaza 136 Pier 21 145 Taling Chan Floating Pizza Romana Pala 146 Market 76 O Poj Spa Kar 83 E Taling Pling 132 O’glee 164 Prai Raya 146 El Chiringuito 105 Tawandang German Onyx 163 Pua-Kee 84 Brewery 133 Puritan 163 Teppen 147 Thamna 97 260 Waon 149 P Wine Pub 119 S G Park Society 135 Wong’s Place 137 Sala Chalermkrung 107 Gin & Milk 123 Phra Nakorn Bar & WTF 149 Sala Rim Naam 137 Gourmet Market 146 Gallery 85 Saxophone Pub Pijiu Bar 105 & Restaurant 119 H

INDEX INDEX Post Bar 97 Siam Niramit 165 3 Heritage Craft 87 ENTERTAINMENT Soi Cowboy 153 House of Chao 138 Q Soy Sauce Factory 107

ENTERTAINMENT Q&A Bar 149 A I Ad Here the 13th 87 T it’s going green 122 R The Living Room 152 Red Sky 118-19 B Titanium 152 J River Vibe 107 Bamboo Bar 137 Jim Thompson 139 Rolling Bar 85 Bangkok Screening W Room 137 July 139 Roof 75, 119 Whiteline 137 Brick Bar 85 Route 66 163 Brown Sugar 85 K Karmakamet 122 S 7 SHOPPING C Salt 164 Calypso Bangkok 139 Scratch Dog 152 A L Lofty Bamboo 87 Shades of Retro 151 Another Story 153 Sing Sing Theater 151 D Asiatique 139 Sky Bar 135 Diplomat Bar 119 M Sky Train Jazz Club 119 B Marco Tailor 123 Smalls 134 MBK Center 121 F Baiyoke Garment SoulBar 107 Friese-Greene Club 152 Center 123 Mowaan 87 Studio Lam 149 Sugar Ray 150 H C N Hollywood Awards 165 Central Chidlom 123 Narai Phand 123 T House 165 Central Embassy 123 Nickermann’s 153 Taksura 163 CentralWorld 122 Nittaya Thai Curry 87 Talay Bar (Ko Samet) 173 J Chiang Heng 139 Teens of Thailand 105 jazz happens! 87 O Telephone Pub 136 D Objects of Desire Store Tep Bar 105 122 The Bank 85 L Damnoen Saduak Floating Market The Bar 135 Lam Sing 152 (Kanchanaburi) 184 The Club 85 Lumpinee Boxing P Doi Tung 122 The Stranger 136 Stadium 165 Pantip Plaza 123 Don Wai Market The Yard 164 Patpong Night Market (Kanchanaburi) 184 139-40 Tuba 149 N Duly 153 Pinky Tailors 123 Nana Entertainment Plaza 153 Platinum Fashion Mall V 122 National Theatre 75 E Vesbar 163 Elephant Parade 122 Vesper 134-5 Emquartier 154, 45 Q P Viva & Aviv 134 Everyday Quartor 153 Vogue Lounge 136 Paragon Cineplex 118 by Karmakamet 138 Parking Toys 165 Parking Toys’ Watt 152 R W Playhouse Magical F Raja’s Fashions 153 Walden 150 Cabaret 165 Fashion Mall 123 Rajawongse 153 Flynow III 122 Ricky’s Fashion House Foodland 146 153 R Sights 000 Fortune Town 165 River City 139 Raintree 119 Map Pages 000 Rajadamnern Stadium 97 Photo Pages 000 Rock Pub 119 261

S B O B Siam Center 121 Baan Chao Yoga 89 Oriental Hotel Thai Baan Dinso 194 Siam Discovery 13, Baan Dalah 154 Cooking School 141 Baan Ku Pu 10, 121 Babylon 136 Oriental Spa 140 (Amphawa) 177 Siam Paragon 121 Baipai Thai Baan Manusarn 195

Siam Square 121 Cooking School 166 P Baan Noppawong 196 INDEX Sop Moei Arts 154 Bangkok Bike Rides 155 Phussapa Thai Baan Sukhumvit 202 Bangkok Bold Massage School 155 Ban Sabai Sabai Cooking Studio 87 (Kanchanaburi) 186 T Pilates Studio 124 SPORTS &ACTIVITIES Banyan Tree Spa 140 Ban Thungdaeng 194 Taekee Taekon 87 Blue Elephant Thai Bangkok Tree House 204 Tailor on Ten 153 Cooking School 140 R Bangkokians Garden Talat Khlong Ong Ang Rakuten 154 Home 197 106 Ruen-Nuad Massage C Be My Guest Bed & Talat Khlong Thom 106 Studio 141 Breakfast 204 Talat Rot Fai 2 165 Center Meditation Wat Mahadhatu 75 Beat Hotel 202 Tamnan Mingmuang 139 S Bed Station Hostel 193 Tango 122 Chetawan Traditional Massage School 76 Silom Thai Bhuthorn 196 Terminal 21 154 Co van Kessel Bangkok Cooking School 141 Bizotel 197 Tha Kha Floating Market Tours 140 Sor Vorapin Gym 89 Boxpackers Hostel 197 (Kanchanaburi) 184 Cooking with Poo Spa 1930 124 Thai Home Industries 139 & Friends 155 C ThaiCraft Fair 153-4 Coran 154 Thann 122 T Cacha Hotel 197 Thanon Khao San Thann Sanctuary 124 Cafe Ice Residence 196 Market 87 D Centrepoint 199 Divana Massage & Spa Thanon Mittraphan 106 U ChababaanCham Resort 154 (Amphawa) 177 Thanon Santiphap 106 Union Language Thanon Sukhumvit School 124 Chakrabongse Villas 192 Market 155 E Chao Hostel 193 The Selected 122 Eight Limbs 155 Chern 193 TR Gift Shop Limited 139 V Chic Hostel 195 Velo Thailand 89 F V Fairtex Muay Thai 166 E Viera by Ragazze 122 Y Eugenia 203 Yoga Elements Studio 155 Villa Market 146 G Yunomori Onsen Grasshopper & Spa 155 F W Adventures 89 Feung Nakorn Balcony Warehouse 30 138-9 197 Fortville Guesthouse 192 H 4 SLEEPING FU House Hostel 201 Z Health Land 140, 154 @Hua Lamphong 195-6 Fusion Suites 202 ZudRangMa Records 153 House of Dhamma 166 2N Guesthouse (Phetchaburi) 181 G I Glur Bangkok 198 2 SPORTS & Issaya Cooking Studio 123 A ACTIVITIES Amari Airport Hotel 203 H J Amber 199 Hansar 197-8 A Jaroenthong Muay Thai Ao Nuan Bungalows (Ko AAA 124 Gym 13, 87-8 Samet) 175 Hotel Clover 202 ABC Amazing Bangkok Apaché (Ko Samet) 175 Hotel des Artists Cyclists 155 AriyasomVilla 202 (Khao Yai) 188 Absolute Yoga 124 L Arun Residence 196 Hotel Indigo 198 Lavana 154 Amita Thai Cooking Class Atlanta 201 House by the Pond 199 75, 12 Aurum: The River HQ Hostel 198 Asia Herb Association 154 M Place 192 Massage Pavilions 76 MuayThai Institute 166 262

I N S T Inn a Day 192 Nanda Heritage 194 S1 Hostel 193, 198 The Cottage 203 Napa Place 202 S31 202 The Siam 195 K NapPark Hostel 193 Sabai@Kan The Warehouse 194 (Kanchanaburi) 186-7 K Maison 197 Niras Bangkoc 193 The Yard 203-4

INDEX INDEX Sala Ratanakosin 192 Khaosan Immjai 192 Novotel Suvarnabhumi Tints of Blue 13, 201 Airport Hotel 203 Sam Sen Sam Place 195 Khao Yai National Park - Trinity Silom Hotel 200 Zone 2 (Khao Yai) 188 San Khao Yai Guesthouse (Khao Yai) 188 SLEEPING kokotel 13, 199 O S-Box 202 U Okura Prestige 198 Shanghai Mansion 197 U Sukhumvit 202 Old Capital Bike Inn 194 L Sheraton Grande Urban House 200 Lamphu Treehouse 194 Oldtown 196 Sukhumvit 203 Urbana 199 Lit Bangkok Hotel & Oriental Kwai Resort Siam Heritage 200 (Kanchanaburi) 187 Residence 198 Siam@Siam 198 V Loftel 22 193 Siamaze 204 Viking Holidays Resort Loog Choob P Silom Art Hostel 193 (Ko Samet) 175 Homestay 196 Pannee Residence 195 Silom One 199 Villa Phra Sumen 194 Loy La Long 196 Pause Hostel 193 Siri Sathorn 199 Vivit Hostel 192 Lubd 193 Peninsula Hotel 201 Sleep Box 203 LUXX 199 Phra-Nakorn Smile Society 198-9 Norn-Len 195 W Sofitel So 201 W Bangkok 201 M Ploen Amphawa Resort Sourire 194 (Amphawa) 177 W Home 196 Ma Du Zi 203 SSIP Boutique 195 Praya Palazzo 194 Wanderlust 195 Mandarin Oriental 201 Stable Lodge 202 White Monkey Metropolitan by COMO Sukhothai Hotel 201 Guesthouse (Phetch- 200 R Sun Hotel aburi) 181 Mile Map Hostel 198 Reno Hotel 197 (Phetchaburi) 181-2 Millennium Hilton 201 RetrOasis 202 Suneta Hostel Y Mystic Place 204 Riva Surya 194 Khaosan 192 Swan Hotel 200 Yim Huai Khwang Rose Hotel 200 Hostel 204 Royal Tha Tien Village 192

Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 263

Bangkok Maps

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MTR/MRT station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 264

a 0 2 km y CHATUCHAK # a LAT MAP INDEX e0 1 miles r h PHRAO P o SAMSEN 1 Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi a h (p265) C NOK m a N 2 Banglamphu (p268) BANGPHAT e a 3 Thewet & Dusit (p270) M SI 4 Ratchathewi (p271) TALING YAN CHAN SAMSEN 5 Chinatown (p272) Ð"3 NAI Ð"12 6 Siam Square, Pratunam & Phloen Chit (p274) Ð"11 THEWET Dusit Lumphini (p277) PHAYATHAI 7 ParkDusit 8 Silom (p278) Zoo DIN DUSIT Chitlada DAENG 9 Riverside (p280) Park Ð"4 10 Sukhumvit (p282) Ð"1 RATCHATHEWI 11 Chatuchak & Ari (p286) BANGLAMPHU HUAY BANGKOK KHWANG 12 RCA & Th Ratchadaphisek PHRA NOI BAAN (p287) NAKHON Khlon KRUA KO Sae g n Saeb BANG RATANAKOSIN Ð"2 Ð"6 PRATUNAM KAPI POM PRAP SATTRU PHAHURAT PHAI SIAM SQUARE THONBURI CHINATOWN PHLOEN SUKHUMVIT SAMPHAN PATHUMWAN CHIT BANGKOK THAWONG YAI TALAT NOI Lumphini Lake KHLONG Ð"5 Park Ratchada TAN SILOM Benjakiti THUNG Park KHLONG KHLONG BANGRAK MAHAMEK TOEY SAN SATHON Ð"10 Ð"9 Ð"8 Ð"7 265 KO RATANAKOSIN & THONBURI

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AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Austin Bush Bangkok, Amphawa Austin Bush came to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study programme hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led Austin to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there ever since. These days, Austin works as a writer and photographer, and in addition to having contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, has contributed text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles including Bangkok; The Food Book; Food Lover’s Guide to the World; Laos; Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei; Myanmar (Burma); Pocket Bangkok; Thailand; Thailand’s Islands & Beaches; Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thai- land; and The World’s Best Street Food.

Tim Bewer Phetchaburi, Khao Yai After briefly holding fort behind a desk as a legislative as- sistant, Tim decided he didn’t have the ego to succeed in the political world (or the stomach to work around those who did). He quit his job at the capitol to backpack around West Africa, during which time he pondered what to do next. His answer was to write a travel guide to parks, forests and wildlife areas of the gorgeous state of Wisconsin. He’s been a freelance travel writer and photographer ever since.

Anita Isalska Ayuthaya Historical Park, Kanchanaburi Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Andy Symington Ko Samet Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and oper- ates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 13th edition – Jul 2018 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 081 9 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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