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Bangkok-13-Preview.Pdf Plan Your Trip 12 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Bangkok “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Austin Bush, Tim Bewer, Anita Isalska, Andy Symington Contents PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4 Welcome to Bangkok ..... 4 Top Itineraries ............... 18 Drinking & Nightlife .... 35 Bangkok’s Top 10 ........... 6 If You Like ...................... 20 Entertainment ............ 39 What’s New .................... 13 Month by Month ........... 22 Shopping ...................... 43 Need to Know ................ 14 With Kids ....................... 24 Sports & Activities .... 48 First Time Bangkok ....... 16 Eating ........................... 26 LGBT Bangkok ............ 52 Explore Bangkok 54 Neighbourhoods Chinatown ..................... 98 Sukhumvit .................. 142 at a Glance .................. 56 Siam Square, Northern Bangkok ..... 156 Ko Ratanakosin Pratunam, Phloen Chit Excursions & Thonburi .................... 58 & Ratchathewi ............ 108 from Bangkok ........... 167 Banglamphu ................. 77 Riverside, Silom & Lumphini ................. 125 Sleeping ..................... 189 Thewet & Dusit ............. 90 Understand Bangkok 205 Bangkok Today .......... 206 People & Culture ........ 218 The Sex Industry in Thailand .................. 231 History ......................... 208 Food & Drink ............... 225 Survival Guide 235 Transport .................... 236 Language .................... 248 Directory A-Z ............... 241 Index ............................ 255 Bangkok Maps 263 SUTIPOND SOMNAM / 500PX © 500PX / SOMNAM SUTIPOND © SHUTTERSTOCK / SUTTIVIRAT PATCHRA (left) Kŏhn dance-drama p223 Based on the Thai © IMAGES GETTY / OUTCAST85 epic, Ramakian. (above) Street food p31 Bangkok is famous for it’s outdoor food stalls. (right) Garuda at Wat Phra Kaew p64 Garuda are sacred birds who guard the temple. Northern Bangkok p156 Thewet & Dusit p90 Banglamphu p77 Siam Square, Ko Ratanakosin Pratunam, & Thonburi Phloen Chit & p58 Chinatown Ratchathewi p98 p108 Sukhumvit p142 Riverside, Silom & Lumphini p125 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 18 Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58) Siam Square, Pratunam, Get up as early as you can and take Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108) M the Chao Phraya Express Boat north Take the BTS (Skytrain) to National to Chang Pier to explore one of Ko Ratana- M Stadium and start your day with a kosin’s museums, such as the Museum of visit to the popular and worthwhile museum Siam, as well as one of its must-see temples, that is Jim Thompson House. Follow this like Wat Pho. by exploring the nearby canalside neigh- bourhood of Baan Khrua or by paying your Lunch Plunge headfirst into Bangkok- respects at the Erawan Shrine. style street food at Pa Aew (p74). Lunch MBK Food Island (p115) is a Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125) tasty introduction to Thai food. Refresh with a spa treatment at R Siam Square, Pratunam, Health Land or soothe those over- worked legs with a traditional Thai massage Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108) at Ruen-Nuad Massage Studio. After Walk, or let the BTS escort you, freshening up, get a new perspective on R through Bangkok’s ultramodern Bangkok with a sunset rooftop cocktail at commercial district, stopping off at linked Moon Bar. shopping centres, including MBK Center, Siam Discovery, Siam Paragon and Siam Dinner nahm (p133) serves what is Square. Make time for a sweet snack at arguably the best Thai food in Bangkok, Gourmet Paradise or an air-conditioned afternoon cuppa at the Erawan Tea Room. Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125) N If you’ve still got it in you, head over Dinner Dip into refined Thai dishes in a to DJ Station, Telephone Pub or likewise setting at Saneh Jaan (p116). any of the other bars and clubs in Bangkok’s small but lively gaybourhood. For a night Northern Bangkok (p156) that doesn’t end until the sun comes up, If it’s Tuesday, Friday or Saturday, bang on the door at . N Wong’s Place consider catching a Thai-boxing match at Lumpinee Boxing Stadium, or if it’s Friday or Saturday, make a point of schlepping over to eastern Bangkok’s RCA/ Royal City Ave to check out the clubs such as Route 66 or Onyx. 19 UTHAI CHUTIVIPAPORN / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / UTHAI CHUTIVIPAPORN PLAN YOUR TRIP Erawan Shrine (p112) Day Three Day Four TO P I ti Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58) Northern Bangkok (p156) N Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat If it’s a weekend, take the BTS E M M R to Chang Pier and set off on a long- north for a half day of shopping A R tail boat tour of Thonburi’s canals. Alter- at the Chatuchak Weekend Market. ies natively, combine canals and the culinary Otherwise, consider a half-day excursion arts with a visit to Amita Thai Cooking outside the city to the provincial-feeling Class. Nonthaburi Market, the artificial island of Ko Kret or the re-created ruins at Lunch Take advantage of the air-con Ancient City. and spicy Thai dishes at Err (p74). Lunch Chatuchak Weekend Market (p158) has cheap and tasty food stalls. Banglamphu (p77) Spend the afternoon shopping at R the Th Khao San Market and Chinatown (p98) visiting the surrounding sights, such as R Recover from the market in the the Golden Mount and Wat Suthat. Or, relative cool of the late afternoon if you’ve got energy to spare, book an af- before taking the MRT (metro) to China- ternoon or nighttime bike tour of the area town to visit the home of the Golden Bud- dha, Wat Traimit, and the Chinese-style Dinner Take a temporary break from Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Consider Thai food at Jidori Cuisine Ken (p147). popping over to Phahurat to sample that neighbourhood’s South Asian feel or, with an outfit such as Velo Thailand or Dinner Follow our walking tour (p102) Grasshopper Adventures. of Chinatown’s best street eats. Sukhumvit (p142) if you’re there after dark, the nocturnal N End the night with a Thai-themed flower market at Pak Khlong Talat. cocktail at a cosy local, such as WTF or Badmotel, or a craft beer at Hair of the Dog. If it’s still too early for Banglamphu (p77) you to turn in, extend the night with a visit N Make the brief taxi ride to to a club like Glow or Beam. Banglamphu and begin the even- ing with drinks at Madame Musur, followed by a rowdy live-music show at Brick Bar or dancing at the Club. If bedtime is irrelevant, head for the rooftop ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 254 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. travel writer wriggle free from a prematurely locked WRITER THANKS temple ground. Thanks always to Normal Matt for Austin Bush crackly Skype calls and support. A big thanks to Destination Editors Dora Ball and Clifton Wilkinson, as well as to all the people on the Andy Symington ground in Bangkok and northern Thailand. A great number of people, from taxi drivers to infor- mation officers, gave me excellent advice and help Tim Bewer along the way; I’m very grateful to all of them. Specific A hearty kòrp jai lăi lăi dêu to the perpetually friendly thanks go to Siriporn Chiangpoon, Ian on Ko Chang, people of Isan who rarely failed to live up to their Maitri in Si Racha, Chayanan in Chanthaburi and the reputation for friendliness and hospitality when faced friendly Ang Sila volunteers. with my incessant questions, in particular Prapaporn Sompakdee (especially for her crispy pork expertise) ACKNOWLEDGMENTS and Julian Wright. Special thanks to my wife Suttawan. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Anita Isalska BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Big thanks to everyone who helped me on my travels Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and in Thailand. Gratitude to Sai and Anna for the warm Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. welcome and insights into the wild west, to the Illustrations pp62–3 and pp66–7 by Michael Weldon. Tourism Authority of Thailand team in Kanchanaburi, and to Tim Bewer for helpful suggestions. I’d also like Cover photograph: Murals depicting scenes from the to thank the kids in Lopburi who helped this perplexed life of Buddha, Wat Pho, Jason Langley/AWL © Product Editors Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie THIS BOOK Rachel Rawling, Kate Chapman Nicholson, Lou McGregor, This 13th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographers Lauren O’Connell, Tamara Planet’s Bangkok guidebook Diana Von Holdt, Mark Griffiths Sheward was researched and written by Book Designer Cover Researcher Austin Bush, Tim Bewer, Anita Virginia Moreno Naomi Parker Isalska and Andy Symington. Assisting Editors Thanks to Austin Bush wrote the previ- Judith Bamber, Imogen Hannah
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