How the Presidents Ate Their Salmon Catherine Schmitt
University of Maine From the SelectedWorks of Catherine Schmitt Winter 2013 How the presidents ate their salmon Catherine Schmitt Available at: https://works.bepress.com/catherine_schmitt/19/ celebrations | catherine schmitt How the Presidents Ate Their Salmon the rivers of the East Coast of North America once were president’s salmon would have been prepared and eaten filled with fish. Alewives, eel, shad, smelt, striped bass, stur- reveals that the celebratory eating of salmon happened at the geon, salmon – each had their season of plenty and associated same time as the decimation of salmon populations and their rituals and habits of preparation and eating. These fish, which associated food traditions. Thus, through the Presidential migrate between coastal rivers and the ocean, sustained Salmon, local anglers maintained cultural traditions of catch- Native American populations and contributed to the survival ing and eating salmon, keeping them in the social memory of of early European colonies. Today, they persist at a fraction the region and nation, while at the same time creating of their former abundance, and several species are consid- a moment that reflected how national policies were affecting ered threatened or endangered. Their history reflects every- local resources. thing humans have done – fishing, logging, damming, and polluting—to diminish the quantity and quality of food pro- vided by coastal rivers. A Tradition Begins The overfishing of New England rivers and bays, the Gulf of Maine, and the North Atlantic Ocean continues to be well In 1912, a Norwegian immigrant, house painter, boat builder, documented.1 Less often told (and more often forgotten) are and fly fisherman named Karl Anderson decided to send the regional stories of abundance and scarcity: the river-by- an Atlantic salmon to the President of the United States.
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