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To Download a PDF of an Interview with Frédéric De Narp, President and Chief
A Brilliant Beginning An Interview with Frédéric de Narp, President and Chief Executive Offi cer, Harry Winston, Inc. EDITORS’ NOTE Frédéric de Narp currently have eight salons. our next visits harry winston. we are currently working assumed his current post at Harry largest market is in Japan, but the rest on a new salon concept that will celebrate the Winston in January of 2010. Prior of the world is yet to be developed for tradition and aesthetics of harry winston in a to this, he served as the President harry winston. we have plans to fur- warmer and more welcoming environment. this and CEO of Cartier North America. ther develop in europe where we see fall, we will unveil two new salons under this He began his career in luxury re- some strong potential. over the next concept: a Las vegas salon and our renovated tail nearly 20 years ago at Cartier in few years, we will also look to expand fl agship salon on Fifth avenue, designed with ar- Japan, and worked in various po- our presence in and around china, chitect, william sofi eld, who just won the cooper sitions with the company in Tokyo, where the brand continues to perform hewitt national design award. Switzerland, Italy, and Greece be- well. harry winston currently has a The brand has been focused on giving fore moving to New York in 2005 to network of 20 retail salons worldwide, back from the beginning. How critical is oversee Cartier North America. so there is tremendous opportunity for that to the culture of Harry Winston, and Frédéric de Narp the brand to grow, while remaining how important is it going forward to main- COMPANY BRIEF Harry Winston exclusive. -
The Wittelsbach-Graff and Hope Diamonds: Not Cut from the Same Rough
THE WITTELSBACH-GRAFF AND HOPE DIAMONDS: NOT CUT FROM THE SAME ROUGH Eloïse Gaillou, Wuyi Wang, Jeffrey E. Post, John M. King, James E. Butler, Alan T. Collins, and Thomas M. Moses Two historic blue diamonds, the Hope and the Wittelsbach-Graff, appeared together for the first time at the Smithsonian Institution in 2010. Both diamonds were apparently purchased in India in the 17th century and later belonged to European royalty. In addition to the parallels in their histo- ries, their comparable color and bright, long-lasting orange-red phosphorescence have led to speculation that these two diamonds might have come from the same piece of rough. Although the diamonds are similar spectroscopically, their dislocation patterns observed with the DiamondView differ in scale and texture, and they do not show the same internal strain features. The results indicate that the two diamonds did not originate from the same crystal, though they likely experienced similar geologic histories. he earliest records of the famous Hope and Adornment (Toison d’Or de la Parure de Couleur) in Wittelsbach-Graff diamonds (figure 1) show 1749, but was stolen in 1792 during the French T them in the possession of prominent Revolution. Twenty years later, a 45.52 ct blue dia- European royal families in the mid-17th century. mond appeared for sale in London and eventually They were undoubtedly mined in India, the world’s became part of the collection of Henry Philip Hope. only commercial source of diamonds at that time. Recent computer modeling studies have established The original ancestor of the Hope diamond was that the Hope diamond was cut from the French an approximately 115 ct stone (the Tavernier Blue) Blue, presumably to disguise its identity after the that Jean-Baptiste Tavernier sold to Louis XIV of theft (Attaway, 2005; Farges et al., 2009; Sucher et France in 1668. -
Renowned for His Iconic Designs and Breathtaking Gem Collections, Harry Winston Was a Man Who Knew the True Value of a Diamond
A BRILLIANT LEGACY Renowned for his iconic designs and breathtaking gem collections, Harry Winston was a man who knew the true value of a diamond. BY ALLISON HATA 54 A diamond is anything but just another stone. Highly coveted, precious and exceedingly rare, diamonds can take on different meanings: a symbol of status, a statement of love or a sign of purity. “Diamonds are a physical connection to [the earth] other than our feet on the ground,” says Russell Shor, a senior industry analyst for the Gemologist Institute of America. “When the earth was young and there was volcanic mass seething inside—this is how diamonds were formed. Diamonds connect us to that.” One man understood this intrinsic connection and dedicated his life to bringing the world closer to the precious gem through his jewelry designs and generous gifts to national institu- tions. Known as the “king of dia- monds,” the late Harry Winston was the first American jeweler to own and cut some of the most iconic stones in history, in addi- tion to setting a new standard for jewelry that showcases a gem’s natural beauty. Born more than a century ago, the young Winston—the son of a small jewelry shop owner—demonstrated a natural instinct for examining diamonds and precious gems. In subsequent years, he cultivated this talent to become one of the most prominent diamond merchants and designers of his time. His legacy lives on through the house of Harry Winston, which pairs his classic vision with a contemporary sensi- bility to create modern pieces that still grace the red carpet today. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
Estate Jewelry Their Signed Work Consistently Fetches a Premium—Sometimes up to Three Times the ESTATE JEWELRY Only Reliable Source
HOW TO BUY Most estate dealers insist that the finest pieces never go on display. In addition JAR workshop at Place Vendôme turns out heirloom pieces that regularly earn two to Deco-era Cartier, the market is perpetually starved for natural (as opposed to cul- to three times their estimates at auction. Other designers to watch include Munich- tured) pearls and über-rare gemstones: Kashmir sapphires, “pigeon’s blood” Burmese based Hemmerle and New York’s Taffin, by James de Givenchy, a nephew of the cel- rubies from the fabled tracts of Mogok, Golconda diamonds. Most of the mines that ebrated couturier Hubert de Givenchy. produce these treasured gems have long since closed, making estate jewelry their Signed work consistently fetches a premium—sometimes up to three times the ESTATE JEWELRY only reliable source. value of a similar but unsigned piece. Greg Kwiat, the new CEO of Fred Leighton, says BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY “We have about a half-dozen people we call” when something special turns up, he recently inspected an important 1930s diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels: says Walter McTeigue, co-founder of high-end jeweler McTeigue & McClelland, citing “On the strength of that signature, we increased our offer by 50 percent.” The provenance of a major piece of jewelry can often add to its allure and its retail value. an oil-shipping magnate, a publish- Add a well-documented prove- ing heiress, and a star hedge-fund M.S. Rau Antiques nance to the mix, and all bets are off. manager as clients who make his Jacques-Charles “A Cartier bandeau that was once But be sure you get the story straight before you hand over the cash Mongenot Louis XVI short list. -
Calm Down NEW YORK — East Met West at Tiffany on Sunday Morning in a Smart, Chic Collection by Behnaz Sarafpour
WINSTON MINES GROWTH/10 GUCCI’S GIANNINI TALKS TEAM/22 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • September 13, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Calm Down NEW YORK — East met West at Tiffany on Sunday morning in a smart, chic collection by Behnaz Sarafpour. And in the midst of the cross-cultural current inspired by the designer’s recent trip to Japan, she gave ample play to the new calm percolating through fashion, one likely to gain momentum as the season progresses. Here, Sarafpour’s sleek dress secured with an obi sash. For more on the season, see pages 12 to 18. Hip-Hop’s Rising Heat: As Firms Chase Deals, Is Rocawear in Play? By Lauren DeCarlo NEW YORK — The bling-bling world of hip- hop is clearly more than a flash in the pan, with more conglomerates than ever eager to get a piece of it. The latest brand J.Lo Plans Show for Sweetface, Sells $15,000 Of Fragrance at Macy’s Appearance. Page 2. said to be entertaining suitors is none other than one that helped pioneer the sector: Rocawear. Sources said Rocawear may be ready to consider offers for a sale of the company, which is said to generate more than $125 million in wholesale volume. See Rocawear, Page4 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDMONDAY J.Lo Talks Scents, Shows at Macy’s Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Julie Naughton and Pete Born FASHION The spring collections kicked into high gear over the weekend with shows Jennifer Lopez in Jennifer Lopez in from Behnaz Sarafpour, DKNY, Baby Phat and Zac Posen. -
Crystal Chemistry
Crystal chemistry About a girl’s best friend - diamonds Diamonds, a crystalline form of the chemical element carbon, are the most romantic of crystals, given as symbols of love and permanence. They were first discovered around 800 BC in riverbeds in India. One of the world’s richest source of diamonds is South Africa, where they are mined from rock called ‘Kimberlite pipe’, named after the town Kimberley. Other countries rich in diamonds are Australia, Botswana, Zaire and the former Soviet Union. Diamonds formed in volcanic magma about 170 miles below the Earth’s surface, solidifying as the magma moved upwards and cooled. This took a long time! Diamond The Cullinan diamond, with a mass of 621.2 g, was the largest diamond ever found, mined in 1895. This was a bit big for one engagement ring, so it was decided to cut the diamond into smaller pieces. The diamond cutter spent months deciding how to go about the task, and apparently fainted with shock after first splitting the stone in two. He recovered, and finally nine large and 96 smaller diamonds were produced. The most famous large diamond, called ‘Cullinan I’ or the ‘Star of Africa’ is in the Royal Sceptre and can be seen on a visit to the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. The Cullinan 1 Crown © / The Royal Collection © 2004, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Diamond is the hardest known substance, so can only be cut with a diamond-edged saw! Diamond mass is measured in ‘carats’. One carat is equal to 0.2 g. -
Definition of PRESSOO a Conceptual Model for Bibliographic Information Pertaining to Serials and Other Continuing Resources
Definition of PRESSOO A conceptual model for Bibliographic Information Pertaining to Serials and Other Continuing Resources Prepared by the PRESSOO Review Group (affiliated to the IFLA Cataloguing Section): Chair: Clément Oury (ISSN International Centre) Members: Vincent Boulet (BnF), Gordon Dunsire (RDA Steering Committee), Louise Howlett (BL/ISSN UK), Patrick Le Boeuf (BnF), Regina Reynolds (LC/ISSN US) Edited by: Patrick Le Bœuf With contributions from: Philippe Cantié (BnF/ISSN France), Pierre-Louis Drouhin (BnF), Pierre Godefroy (ISSN International Centre), Patrick Le Boeuf (BnF), Françoise Leresche (BnF), François-Xavier Pelegrin (ISSN International Centre) Approved by CIDOC CRM-SIG (Special Interest Group for the Conceptual Reference Model of Comité international pour la Documentation, affiliated to the International Council of Museums or ICOM) Version 1.3 August 2016 Endorsed by the IFLA Professional Committee, March 2017. PRESSOO Review Group, affiliated to the IFLA Cataloguing Section 2017. 1 © 2017 by PRESSOO Review Group, affiliated to the IFLA Cataloguing Section 2017. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0) license. To view a copy of this license, visit: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 IFLA P.O. Box 95312 2509 CH Den Haag Netherlands www.ifla.org 2 Table of Contents Table of Contents ....................................................................................................................................... 3 Foreword to version 1.3 ............................................................................................................................ -
The Tower of London. 13Y Tue Late Rev
LND.El{ lt.EYJ:--;JUN. L 01'0wn CopyrirJltl Hese1·ved. AUTHORISED GUIDE TO THE TOWER OF LONDON. 13Y TUE LATE REV. W. J. LOFTIE, B.A., F.S.A. I REVISED EDITION. WI'l'H TWELVE VIEWS AND TWO PLANS, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE ARMOURY: BY THE VISCOUNT DILLON, F.S.A. (Late Cui-at01· of the Tower Armou1·ies.) JtEVlSIW HY CHAlU,ES FFOULKES, F.S.A. (Curntor of the Armouries.) LO NDON: PRINTED UNDER 'fHE AUTHORITY OF HIS MAJBSTY'� STATIONERY OFFICE BY DARLING & SON, L'l'o., 34-40, BACON STREE'r, E. I AND SOLD A'l' TJIN TOWER. ' 1916. PRICE ONE PENNY. UNDER REVISION. [Grown Copyright Res�rved. AUTHORISED GUIDE TO THE TOWER OF LONOON. BY THE LATE REV. Vol. J. LOFTIE, B.A., F.S.A. REVISED EDITIO N. WITH TWELVE VIEWS AND TWO PLANS, AND A D�SCRIPTION OF THE ARMOURY, BY THE VISCOUNT DILLON, F.S.A. (Late Cwrator of the Tower Armmiriea.) REVISED BY CHARLES FFOULKES, F.S.A. ( Curator of the Ar1nm1,ries,) LO NDO N: PRINTED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFIOE BY DARLING & SON, LTD., 34-40, BACON STREET, E. AND SOLD AT :fHE TOWER. 1916. PRICE ONE PENNY, •• Bl llllf ES PLAN OF THE ·roWEB. (75!P.-32.) Wt. 55051-688/102. 50,000. 4/16. D . .t S. G. 20/ 45 THE TOWER OF LONDON. GENERAL SKETCH. THE Tower of London was first built by William the Conqueror, for the purpose of protecting and controlling the city. As first planned, it lay within the city walls, but its enlargement late in the 12th century carried its boundaries eastward beyond the walls. -
The Glorifying History of Golconda Fort
High Technology Letters ISSN NO : 1006-6748 The Glorifying History of Golconda Fort Dr.K.Karpagam, Assistant Professor, Department of History, D.G.Government Arts College for Women, Mayiladuthurai, Nagapattinam District – 609001 Abstract India is a vast country with a lot of diversity in her physical and social environment. We see people around us speaking different languages, having different religions and practising different rituals. We can also see these diversities in their food habits and dress patterns. Besides, look at the myriad forms of dance and music in our country. But within all these diversities there is an underlying unity which acts as a cementing force. The intermingling of people has been steadily taking place in India over centuries. A number of people of different racial stock, ethnic backgrounds and religious beliefs have settled down here. Let us not forget that the composite and dynamic character of Indian culture is a result of the rich contributions of all these diverse cultural groups over a long period of time. The distinctive features of Indian culture and its uniqueness are the precious possession of all Indians. Significance : The art and architecture of a nation is the cultural identity of the country towards the other countries and that's why the country which has a beach art and architecture is always prestigious to the other countries. The architecture of India is rooted in its history, culture and religion. Among a number of architectural styles and traditions, the contrasting Hindu temple architecture and Indo- Islamic architecture are the best known historical styles. Both of these, but especially the former, have a number of regional styles within them. -
Volume 35 / No. 7 / 2017
GemmologyThe Journal of Volume 35 / No. 7 / 2017 The Gemmological Association of Great Britain Contents GemmologyThe Journal of Volume 35 / No. 7 / 2017 COLUMNS p. 581 569 What’s New AMS2 melee diamond tester| p. 586 MiNi photography system| Spectra diamond colorimeter| Lab Information Circular| Gemmological Society of Japan abstracts|Bead-cultured blister pearls from Pinctada maculata|Rubies from Cambo- dia and Thailand|Goldsmiths’ S. Bruce-Lockhart photo Review|Topaz and synthetic moissanite imitating rough diamonds|Santa Fe Symposium proceedings|Colour-change ARTICLES glass imitating garnet rough| Thanh Nhan Bui photo M2M diamond-origin tracking service|More historical reading Feature Articles lists 598 The Linkage Between Garnets Found in India at the 572 Gem Notes Arikamedu Archaeological Site and Their Source at Cat’s-eye aquamarine from Meru, the Garibpet Deposit Kenya|Colour-zoned beryl from By Karl Schmetzer, H. Albert Gilg, Ulrich Schüssler, Jayshree Pakistan|Coloration of green dravite from Tanzania|Enstatite Panjikar, Thomas Calligaro and Patrick Périn from Emali, Kenya|Grossular from Tanga, Tanzania|Natrolite 628 Simultaneous X-Radiography, Phase-Contrast from Portugal|Large matrix opal and Darkfield Imaging to Separate Natural from carving|Sapphires from Tigray, Cultured Pearls northern Ethiopia|Whewellite from the Czech Republic| By Michael S. Krzemnicki, Carina S. Hanser and Vincent Revol Inclusions in sunstone feldspar from Norway and topaz from Sri 640 Camels, Courts and Financing the French Blue Lanka|Quartz with a tourmaline -
MSA Centennial Symposium Program & Abstracts
Mineralogical Society of America Centennial SymposiumThe Next 100 Years of Mineral Sciences June 20-21, 2019 Carnegie Institution for Science Building Washington, DC Greetings from the President! Welcome to the celebration of MSA's 100th anniversary! Thank you for attending this unique symposium to help us chart the course for the next 100 years! I am excited to hear our member- proposed, moderated hour-long theme sessions and to integrate the science and the social parts of this meeting – especially in the wonderful settings of the Carnegie Institution for Science building and the Smithsonian’s Gem and Mineral Hall. To memorialize this event, each session will produce a chapter that will appear in a Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry volume dedicated to MSA's Centennial. While this event would not have been possible without the tireless efforts and innovative ideas of the organizers, I would also like to thank those at MSA "headquarters," especially our Executive Director of 25 years, Alex Speer, and our newly hired Executive Director, Ann Benbow, as well as the sponsors who Mickey Gunter provided much-needed financial support. In addition, I would like to2019 MSA President recognize all of those past researchers and educators who have contributed to our field as we acknowledge their efforts to gain a better understanding of the roles minerals play in the natural world and every aspect of our lives. Scientific discovery on Earth and other planets starts with the careful study of minerals, as will be demonstrated by the subjects we will hear and discuss over the next two days.