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Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System This booklet summarizes the relationship of Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness to the GIA Cut Grading System for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated within the GIA Cut Grading System. Finish—Polish and Symmetry In the GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant To determine the relationship between finish and overall diamonds, finish (for Polish and Symmetry features) is cut quality, GIA conducted extensive observation testing factored into the final overall cut grade as follows: of numerous diamonds using standardized lighting and viewing conditions. Observations of diamonds with • To qualify for an Excellent cut grade, polish and comparable proportions, but differing in their polish and symmetry must be Very Good or Excellent. symmetry categories, were analyzed to determine the effects of finish on overall cut appearance. In this way, • To qualify for a Very Good cut grade, both polish GIA found that a one grade difference between the other and symmetry must be at least Good. aspects of a diamond’s cut grade and its polish and • To qualify for a Good cut grade, both polish and symmetry assessments did not significantly lower a symmetry must be at least Fair. trained observer’s assessment of face-up appearance, and could not be discerned reliably with the unaided eye— • To qualify for a Fair cut grade, both polish and e.g., polish and/or symmetry descriptions of Very Good symmetry must be at least Fair. -
The Chemistry of Diamond Rings
THE CHEMISTRY OF DIAMOND RINGS Diamond rings are synonymous with engagements; diamond itself is an form (allotrope) of carbon, but other chemical elements can impact on its appearance. Here we look at ‘the 4 Cs’ and their chemistry links, as well as some of the metallic elements that help to make up the ring itself. DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND CARAT 0.25 Ct 0.50 Ct 0.75 Ct 1.00 Ct 1.50 Ct 2.00 Ct 4.1 mm 5.2 mm 5.8 mm 6.5 mm 7.4 mm 8.2 mm SHALLOW IDEAL DEEP Top: weight in carats; Bottom: approximate diameter in millimetres. Diamonds not shown to scale, but are in proportion to each other. The cut of a diamond affects how well it reflects light. Diamond carat measures mass; one carat is equal to two Too shallow or too deep and the reflection of light is poor, hundred milligrams. Diameters are approximate, as they so the diamond seems to sparkle less. vary depending on the cut of the diamond. DIAMOND COLOUR DIAMOND CLARITY RING COMPOSITION WHITE GOLD Au 75% Pd 10% Ni 10% Zn 5% Rh PLATE D → F G → J K → M N → R S → Z F → IF VVS1/2 VS1/2 SI1/2 I1/2/3 ALMOST FAINT VERY LIGHT LIGHT COLOURLESS FLAWLESS OR VERY VERY VERY STERLING SILVER COLOURLESS YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW SLIGHTLY INTERNALLY SLIGHTLY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED INCLUDED FLAWLESS INCLUDED INCLUDED Ag 92.5% Cu 7.5% Pt TRACE Ge TRACE Zn TRACE POTENTIAL ELEMENTAL IMPURITIES GAINED DURING DIAMOND GROWTH 7 5 1 14 15 28 27 YELLOW GOLD Compositions given are NITROGENN BoronB HYDROGENH Sisilicon PHOSPHORUSP NiNickel Cocobalt TYPE Ia TYPE Ib TYPE IIa TYPE IIb approximate for a typical 0–0.3% N 0–0.05% N 0% N B impurities Au 75% Cu 12.5% Ag 12.5% alloy, and can vary slightly (clusters) (diffuse) Most diamonds have some imperfections. -
To Download a PDF of an Interview with Frédéric De Narp, President and Chief
A Brilliant Beginning An Interview with Frédéric de Narp, President and Chief Executive Offi cer, Harry Winston, Inc. EDITORS’ NOTE Frédéric de Narp currently have eight salons. our next visits harry winston. we are currently working assumed his current post at Harry largest market is in Japan, but the rest on a new salon concept that will celebrate the Winston in January of 2010. Prior of the world is yet to be developed for tradition and aesthetics of harry winston in a to this, he served as the President harry winston. we have plans to fur- warmer and more welcoming environment. this and CEO of Cartier North America. ther develop in europe where we see fall, we will unveil two new salons under this He began his career in luxury re- some strong potential. over the next concept: a Las vegas salon and our renovated tail nearly 20 years ago at Cartier in few years, we will also look to expand fl agship salon on Fifth avenue, designed with ar- Japan, and worked in various po- our presence in and around china, chitect, william sofi eld, who just won the cooper sitions with the company in Tokyo, where the brand continues to perform hewitt national design award. Switzerland, Italy, and Greece be- well. harry winston currently has a The brand has been focused on giving fore moving to New York in 2005 to network of 20 retail salons worldwide, back from the beginning. How critical is oversee Cartier North America. so there is tremendous opportunity for that to the culture of Harry Winston, and Frédéric de Narp the brand to grow, while remaining how important is it going forward to main- COMPANY BRIEF Harry Winston exclusive. -
Renowned for His Iconic Designs and Breathtaking Gem Collections, Harry Winston Was a Man Who Knew the True Value of a Diamond
A BRILLIANT LEGACY Renowned for his iconic designs and breathtaking gem collections, Harry Winston was a man who knew the true value of a diamond. BY ALLISON HATA 54 A diamond is anything but just another stone. Highly coveted, precious and exceedingly rare, diamonds can take on different meanings: a symbol of status, a statement of love or a sign of purity. “Diamonds are a physical connection to [the earth] other than our feet on the ground,” says Russell Shor, a senior industry analyst for the Gemologist Institute of America. “When the earth was young and there was volcanic mass seething inside—this is how diamonds were formed. Diamonds connect us to that.” One man understood this intrinsic connection and dedicated his life to bringing the world closer to the precious gem through his jewelry designs and generous gifts to national institu- tions. Known as the “king of dia- monds,” the late Harry Winston was the first American jeweler to own and cut some of the most iconic stones in history, in addi- tion to setting a new standard for jewelry that showcases a gem’s natural beauty. Born more than a century ago, the young Winston—the son of a small jewelry shop owner—demonstrated a natural instinct for examining diamonds and precious gems. In subsequent years, he cultivated this talent to become one of the most prominent diamond merchants and designers of his time. His legacy lives on through the house of Harry Winston, which pairs his classic vision with a contemporary sensi- bility to create modern pieces that still grace the red carpet today. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
JEWELLERY TREND REPORT 3 2 NDCJEWELLERY TREND REPORT 2021 Natural Diamonds Are Everlasting
TREND REPORT ew l y 2021 STATEMENT J CUFFS SHOULDER DUSTERS GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY GEOMETRIC DESIGNS PRESENTED BY THE NEW HEIRLOOM CONTENTS 2 THE STYLE COLLECTIVE 4 INDUSTRY OVERVIEW 8 STATEMENT CUFFS IN AN UNPREDICTABLE YEAR, we all learnt to 12 LARGER THAN LIFE fi nd our peace. We seek happiness in the little By Anaita Shroff Adajania things, embark upon meaningful journeys, and hold hope for a sense of stability. This 16 SHOULDER DUSTERS is also why we gravitate towards natural diamonds–strong and enduring, they give us 20 THE STONE AGE reason to celebrate, and allow us to express our love and affection. Mostly, though, they By Sarah Royce-Greensill offer inspiration. 22 GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY Our fi rst-ever Trend Report showcases natural diamonds like you have never seen 26 HIS & HERS before. Yet, they continue to retain their inherent value and appeal, one that ensures By Bibhu Mohapatra they stay relevant for future generations. We put together a Style Collective and had 28 GEOMETRIC DESIGNS numerous conversations—with nuance and perspective, these freewheeling discussions with eight tastemakers made way for the defi nitive jewellery 32 SHAPESHIFTER trends for 2021. That they range from statement cuffs to geometric designs By Katerina Perez only illustrates the versatility of their central stone, the diamond. Natural diamonds have always been at the forefront of fashion, symbolic of 36 THE NEW HEIRLOOM timelessness and emotion. Whether worn as an accessory or an ally, diamonds not only impress but express how we feel and who we are. This report is a 41 THE PRIDE OF BARODA product of love and labour, and I hope it inspires you to wear your personality, By HH Maharani Radhikaraje and most importantly, have fun with jewellery. -
Designing the Perfect Engagement Ring
DESIGNING THE PERFECT ENGAGEMENT RING 1. Choose a Ring Style This first step may be the hardest part of your engagement ring process. To start, think about the styles of clothing and jewelry your partner usually wears, or gravitates to. Discuss this with your jeweler and this will help you decide on what style she would like; Classic, Modern, Antique, Glamourous, Nature Inspires, or a combination there of. Think back to any hints that your partner may have dropped, or check out their Pinterest for any images they may have pinned. 2. Choose a Gemstone While diamonds may still be the ‘rule’ when it comes to engagement rings, there are more exceptions to this rule today than ever before. While the most classic ring style features a center diamond, your partner may crave something more unique or in line with her personality. She may prefer a ring with no stone at all. Again, think back to conversations the two of you have had or any hints she may have dropped for you over your relationship. Sapphires are the second most common gemstone for engagement rings, so if you don’t think a diamond would suit her, maybe this popular stone does. Did you know that sapphires come in a variety of other colors than deep blue? Ask your jeweler to show you what other gemstones are available. 3. The 4 Cs You may have heard this term before, but what does it really mean and how important are they when selecting a diamond? Each diamond is graded according to these four Cs: Carat, Cut, Clarity, and Color. -
In the Court of Appeals of the State of Mississippi No. 2015
IN THE COURT OF APPEALS OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI NO. 2015-CA-01308-COA EMILY F. COOLEY APPELLANT v. LAWRENCE J. TUCKER JR. APPELLEE DATE OF JUDGMENT: 07/29/2015 TRIAL JUDGE: HON. MILLS E. BARBEE COURT FROM WHICH APPEALED: LAFAYETTE COUNTY CHANCERY COURT ATTORNEYS FOR APPELLANT: MICHAEL N. WATTS GEOFFREY FELIX CALDERARO ATTORNEY FOR APPELLEE: JOHN BRIAN HYNEMAN NATURE OF THE CASE: CIVIL - OTHER TRIAL COURT DISPOSITION: ORDERED APPELLANT TO RETURN ENGAGEMENT RING TO APPELLEE DISPOSITION: AFFIRMED - 09/06/2016 MOTION FOR REHEARING FILED: MANDATE ISSUED: EN BANC. ISHEE, J., FOR THE COURT: ¶1. In December 2011, Lawrence J. Tucker Jr. proposed marriage to Emily F. Cooley, and presented her with a diamond engagement ring. In November 2014, Tucker broke off the engagement. Thereafter, Cooley maintained possession of the ring despite Tucker’s requests to have the ring returned. Tucker filed a replevin action in the Lafayette County Chancery Court in February 2015 seeking return of the ring. After a trial on the merits, the chancery court ruled in favor of Tucker. In August 2015, the chancery court ordered Cooley to return the ring. Aggrieved, Cooley appeals. Finding no error, we affirm. STATEMENT OF FACTS ¶2. Tucker and Cooley began dating in April 2009. In the summer of 2010, Cooley relocated from Hattiesburg, Mississippi, to Oxford, Mississippi, and began cohabiting with Tucker in Tucker’s home. Tucker averred that the relationship was tumultuous. Tucker testified that after consistent requests from Cooley to become engaged, he believed an engagement would improve the relationship. Accordingly, Tucker proposed marriage to Cooley in December 2011. -
Estate Jewelry Their Signed Work Consistently Fetches a Premium—Sometimes up to Three Times the ESTATE JEWELRY Only Reliable Source
HOW TO BUY Most estate dealers insist that the finest pieces never go on display. In addition JAR workshop at Place Vendôme turns out heirloom pieces that regularly earn two to Deco-era Cartier, the market is perpetually starved for natural (as opposed to cul- to three times their estimates at auction. Other designers to watch include Munich- tured) pearls and über-rare gemstones: Kashmir sapphires, “pigeon’s blood” Burmese based Hemmerle and New York’s Taffin, by James de Givenchy, a nephew of the cel- rubies from the fabled tracts of Mogok, Golconda diamonds. Most of the mines that ebrated couturier Hubert de Givenchy. produce these treasured gems have long since closed, making estate jewelry their Signed work consistently fetches a premium—sometimes up to three times the ESTATE JEWELRY only reliable source. value of a similar but unsigned piece. Greg Kwiat, the new CEO of Fred Leighton, says BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY “We have about a half-dozen people we call” when something special turns up, he recently inspected an important 1930s diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels: says Walter McTeigue, co-founder of high-end jeweler McTeigue & McClelland, citing “On the strength of that signature, we increased our offer by 50 percent.” The provenance of a major piece of jewelry can often add to its allure and its retail value. an oil-shipping magnate, a publish- Add a well-documented prove- ing heiress, and a star hedge-fund M.S. Rau Antiques nance to the mix, and all bets are off. manager as clients who make his Jacques-Charles “A Cartier bandeau that was once But be sure you get the story straight before you hand over the cash Mongenot Louis XVI short list. -
Calm Down NEW YORK — East Met West at Tiffany on Sunday Morning in a Smart, Chic Collection by Behnaz Sarafpour
WINSTON MINES GROWTH/10 GUCCI’S GIANNINI TALKS TEAM/22 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • September 13, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Calm Down NEW YORK — East met West at Tiffany on Sunday morning in a smart, chic collection by Behnaz Sarafpour. And in the midst of the cross-cultural current inspired by the designer’s recent trip to Japan, she gave ample play to the new calm percolating through fashion, one likely to gain momentum as the season progresses. Here, Sarafpour’s sleek dress secured with an obi sash. For more on the season, see pages 12 to 18. Hip-Hop’s Rising Heat: As Firms Chase Deals, Is Rocawear in Play? By Lauren DeCarlo NEW YORK — The bling-bling world of hip- hop is clearly more than a flash in the pan, with more conglomerates than ever eager to get a piece of it. The latest brand J.Lo Plans Show for Sweetface, Sells $15,000 Of Fragrance at Macy’s Appearance. Page 2. said to be entertaining suitors is none other than one that helped pioneer the sector: Rocawear. Sources said Rocawear may be ready to consider offers for a sale of the company, which is said to generate more than $125 million in wholesale volume. See Rocawear, Page4 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDMONDAY J.Lo Talks Scents, Shows at Macy’s Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Julie Naughton and Pete Born FASHION The spring collections kicked into high gear over the weekend with shows Jennifer Lopez in Jennifer Lopez in from Behnaz Sarafpour, DKNY, Baby Phat and Zac Posen. -
This Is a Tiffany Ring
THIS IS A TIFFANY RING THIS IS A TIFFANY RING MODERN LOVE A Ti any ring is a symbol of true connection, honoring love in all forms, from romance and engagement to every meaningful milestone. It is a heartfelt declaration and commitment to truly honor one another. We handcraft designs that stand the test of time and are as enduring as love itself. 2 A TIFFANY LEGACY Charles Lewis Ti any was the first jeweler to establish the diamond ring as a symbol of love. In 1886 he introduced the Tiany® Setting, the world’s most iconic engagement ring. Crowned the “King of Diamonds” for acquiring superlative European gems—including the French Crown Jewels—Charles Lewis Tiany introduced the American public to rare gemstones from around the world. His debut of the Tiany Diamond, one of the most important diamonds in history, not only highlighted his dedication to exemplary craftsmanship, it confirmed Tiany as the world-renowned destination for diamonds. 5 100% CONFLICT-FREE At Ti any & Co., we are committed to sourcing high-quality diamonds with integrity. We value traceability and the importance of knowing the origin—or provenance—of our diamonds from the moment they are unearthed. That’s why we source rough diamonds only from known mines and sources in countries that are full participants in the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme. We also go beyond the Kimberley Process—with stringent chain of custody controls and by advocating for stronger global standards—to better ensure that human rights and the environment are protected. Our in-house cutting and polishing operations and vertically integrated supply chain further enable us to advance our industry-leading traceability and sustainability commitments to our customers. -
Jewellery Collectors
Diamonds Diamond collectors The most mesmerising rock of them all, the diamond, transcends fashion, era and cultures, with new-age and yesteryear celebrities alike coming back for more and more f course, collecting is Beyoncé’s blast at the 2014 a game won by those who Grammys followed Carrie Ohave been at it the longest, Underwood rocking a $31 million but hot on the diamond-encrusted necklace designed by Jonathan heels of luminaries Queen Elizabeth Arndt the year before. II, Elizabeth Taylor and Madonna South Africa is a world leader are Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and in diamond mining and Charlize Charlize Theron. Theron is never afraid to fly her Lady Gaga is regularly lighting flag. She made a statement at the up red carpets in one way or 2014 Academy Awards with another, but the $30m Tiffany & a 21-carat emerald-cut stone Harry Co. 128.54-carat Tiffany Yellow Winston necklace that she paired Diamond necklace she wore at with diamond earrings for a total the 2019 Academy Awards was of $15.8m worth on Hollywood’s perfectly aligned to her A Star is biggest night. Born reincarnation. It was, in fact, Other notable sparklers the very necklace Audrey Hepburn include Cate Blanchett who wore wore when she promoted Breakfast $18m-worth of Chopard diamonds at Tiffany’s. Just a month before, at the 2014 Academy Awards, Gaga had dazzled at the Golden including opal earrings, a diamond Globes with a Tiffany & Co. bracelet and a pear-shaped necklace featuring a 20-carat pear- diamond ring. shaped center stone accompanied Look no further than the classic by 300 other diamonds and a fashionistas to see where these hot price tag of $5m.