The Retailer's Guide to Marketing Diamond Jewellery
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Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System This booklet summarizes the relationship of Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness to the GIA Cut Grading System for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated within the GIA Cut Grading System. Finish—Polish and Symmetry In the GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant To determine the relationship between finish and overall diamonds, finish (for Polish and Symmetry features) is cut quality, GIA conducted extensive observation testing factored into the final overall cut grade as follows: of numerous diamonds using standardized lighting and viewing conditions. Observations of diamonds with • To qualify for an Excellent cut grade, polish and comparable proportions, but differing in their polish and symmetry must be Very Good or Excellent. symmetry categories, were analyzed to determine the effects of finish on overall cut appearance. In this way, • To qualify for a Very Good cut grade, both polish GIA found that a one grade difference between the other and symmetry must be at least Good. aspects of a diamond’s cut grade and its polish and • To qualify for a Good cut grade, both polish and symmetry assessments did not significantly lower a symmetry must be at least Fair. trained observer’s assessment of face-up appearance, and could not be discerned reliably with the unaided eye— • To qualify for a Fair cut grade, both polish and e.g., polish and/or symmetry descriptions of Very Good symmetry must be at least Fair. -
Laura Branigan Satisfaction Extended
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The Chemistry of Diamond Rings
THE CHEMISTRY OF DIAMOND RINGS Diamond rings are synonymous with engagements; diamond itself is an form (allotrope) of carbon, but other chemical elements can impact on its appearance. Here we look at ‘the 4 Cs’ and their chemistry links, as well as some of the metallic elements that help to make up the ring itself. DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND CARAT 0.25 Ct 0.50 Ct 0.75 Ct 1.00 Ct 1.50 Ct 2.00 Ct 4.1 mm 5.2 mm 5.8 mm 6.5 mm 7.4 mm 8.2 mm SHALLOW IDEAL DEEP Top: weight in carats; Bottom: approximate diameter in millimetres. Diamonds not shown to scale, but are in proportion to each other. The cut of a diamond affects how well it reflects light. Diamond carat measures mass; one carat is equal to two Too shallow or too deep and the reflection of light is poor, hundred milligrams. Diameters are approximate, as they so the diamond seems to sparkle less. vary depending on the cut of the diamond. DIAMOND COLOUR DIAMOND CLARITY RING COMPOSITION WHITE GOLD Au 75% Pd 10% Ni 10% Zn 5% Rh PLATE D → F G → J K → M N → R S → Z F → IF VVS1/2 VS1/2 SI1/2 I1/2/3 ALMOST FAINT VERY LIGHT LIGHT COLOURLESS FLAWLESS OR VERY VERY VERY STERLING SILVER COLOURLESS YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW SLIGHTLY INTERNALLY SLIGHTLY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED INCLUDED FLAWLESS INCLUDED INCLUDED Ag 92.5% Cu 7.5% Pt TRACE Ge TRACE Zn TRACE POTENTIAL ELEMENTAL IMPURITIES GAINED DURING DIAMOND GROWTH 7 5 1 14 15 28 27 YELLOW GOLD Compositions given are NITROGENN BoronB HYDROGENH Sisilicon PHOSPHORUSP NiNickel Cocobalt TYPE Ia TYPE Ib TYPE IIa TYPE IIb approximate for a typical 0–0.3% N 0–0.05% N 0% N B impurities Au 75% Cu 12.5% Ag 12.5% alloy, and can vary slightly (clusters) (diffuse) Most diamonds have some imperfections. -
LAURA BRANIGAN Phone:(213)464-8241 the Same Old SAW, from Chrissy Iley; Fax:(213)464-3235 Arthur Goldstuck Is Homeless No More
1 STAFF BOX GEORGE ALBERT 54 % President and Publisher VOL LIU, NO. APRIL 21, 1990 ROBERT LONG 39, Vice President/Urban Marketing KEITH ALBERT Vice President/General Manager JIM SHARP Director, Nashville Operations CAMILLE COMPASIO Director, Coin Machine Operations JIM WARSINSKE (L.A.) MIKE GORDON (L.A.) Marketing KEITH GORMAN Editor THE MUSIC TRADE MAGAZINE LEEJESKE New York Editor KAY KNIGHT Nashville Editor Editorial KAREN WOODS, Assoc. Ed. (N.Y.) KIMMY WIX, Assoc. Ed. (Nash.) ERNEST HARDY, Assoc. Ed. (LA) CONTENTS 9 TONYSABOURNIN, Assoc. Ed., Latin (N.Y.) SHELLY WEISS, 6 MANSION OF GLORY: THE HOUSE OF LOVE Assoc. Ed., Publishing (LA.) ROBB MOORE KEEPS THE HOME FIRES BURNING Assoc. Ed. (LA) BERN ETTA GREEN (N.Y.) A visit with Guy Chadwick, the landlord in the House of Love WILMA MELTON (Nash.) Chart Research Robb Moore SCOTT M. SALISBURY 7 SARA HICKMAN WOULD LIKE TO TEACH Coordinator (L.A.) JOHN DECKER (Nash.) THE WORLD TO SING, LOUDLY JEFF (STU) TEMPLE (LA.) C.J. (War Fk>wer)(LA.) 10 Ears of corn, with Sara Hickman TERESA CHANCE (Nash.) 12 JEFF KARP (LA.) Karen Woods Production 20 NEW VIDEO PROGRAM ALREADY A WINNER JIM GONZALEZ Minutes of pleasure, all on tape Art Director 10 Circulation Kay Knight NINATREGUB, Manager 25 AND THE DOVE GOES TO... CYNTHIA BANTA Publication Offices Flights of fancy, and little golden statuettes NEW YORK Kimmy Wix 157 W. 57th Street (Suite 1402) New York, NY 10019 Phone: (212) 586-2640 ON THE COVER Fax: (212) 582-2571 COLUMNS HOLLYWOOD 6464 Sunset Blvd. (Suite 605) 4 The Buzz / Robb Moore is off to explore a new Frontier; Hollywood, CA 90028 Karen Woods doesn't talk about the Beautiful, because I'm the editor; LAURA BRANIGAN Phone:(213)464-8241 The same old SAW, from Chrissy Iley; Fax:(213)464-3235 Arthur Goldstuck is homeless no more. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
JEWELLERY TREND REPORT 3 2 NDCJEWELLERY TREND REPORT 2021 Natural Diamonds Are Everlasting
TREND REPORT ew l y 2021 STATEMENT J CUFFS SHOULDER DUSTERS GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY GEOMETRIC DESIGNS PRESENTED BY THE NEW HEIRLOOM CONTENTS 2 THE STYLE COLLECTIVE 4 INDUSTRY OVERVIEW 8 STATEMENT CUFFS IN AN UNPREDICTABLE YEAR, we all learnt to 12 LARGER THAN LIFE fi nd our peace. We seek happiness in the little By Anaita Shroff Adajania things, embark upon meaningful journeys, and hold hope for a sense of stability. This 16 SHOULDER DUSTERS is also why we gravitate towards natural diamonds–strong and enduring, they give us 20 THE STONE AGE reason to celebrate, and allow us to express our love and affection. Mostly, though, they By Sarah Royce-Greensill offer inspiration. 22 GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY Our fi rst-ever Trend Report showcases natural diamonds like you have never seen 26 HIS & HERS before. Yet, they continue to retain their inherent value and appeal, one that ensures By Bibhu Mohapatra they stay relevant for future generations. We put together a Style Collective and had 28 GEOMETRIC DESIGNS numerous conversations—with nuance and perspective, these freewheeling discussions with eight tastemakers made way for the defi nitive jewellery 32 SHAPESHIFTER trends for 2021. That they range from statement cuffs to geometric designs By Katerina Perez only illustrates the versatility of their central stone, the diamond. Natural diamonds have always been at the forefront of fashion, symbolic of 36 THE NEW HEIRLOOM timelessness and emotion. Whether worn as an accessory or an ally, diamonds not only impress but express how we feel and who we are. This report is a 41 THE PRIDE OF BARODA product of love and labour, and I hope it inspires you to wear your personality, By HH Maharani Radhikaraje and most importantly, have fun with jewellery. -
GIA UV Lamp and Viewing Cabinet* USER GUIDE SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTATION by GIA
GIA UV Lamp and Viewing Cabinet* USER GUIDE SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTATION BY GIA * Patent Pending IMPORTANT! Table of Contents READ THIS USER GUIDE BEFORE SETTING UP General Information.......................................................................................................4 AND USING THIS PRODUCT Device Advantages .........................................................................................................4 Getting Started ................................................................................................................5 Room Light Requirements ...........................................................................................6 CAUTION! The Light Source ............................................................................................................6 The Reference Block......................................................................................................7 Ultraviolet (UV) Light Hazard For best results, device should be used in manner specified by manufacturer. Using the Lamp as a Handheld Unit .........................................................................8 Using the device in any other way may result in decreased protection from UV light. Stone Positioning in the Cabinet ................................................................................9 The device enclosure should not be opened. Unless specified otherwise, there are Parts List.........................................................................................................................10 -
D Lesson 14.Pdf
The Mystique of Diamonds The Diamond Course Diamond Council of America © 2015 The Mystique of Diamonds In This Lesson: • Magic and Romance • Nature’s Inspirations • Adding to the Spell • Diamonds and Time • Diamond Occasions • Diamond Personalities MAGIC AND ROMANCE In most diamond presentations, it’s important to cover the 4Cs. A little information about topics such as formation, sources, mining, or cutting can often help, too. In every pre- sentation, however, it’s essential to identify and reinforce the factors that make diamonds valuable and important – in other words, truly precious – to each customer. After all, purchase decisions involve the head, but the desire to own or give a diamond almost always springs from the heart. That’s the realm of magic and romance. The emotional meanings of diamonds have many origins and they have evolved over thou- sands of years. Diamond’s unique beauty and remarkable properties have helped create some of the deepest meanings. Others have come from cultural traditions, the glamour of celebrities, and the events of individual lives. In a sales presentation, you need to The desire to own or give diamond determine which of these elements will resonate for the cus- jewelry springs from the heart, not from the head. tomer you’re serving. Photo courtesy Andrew Meyer Jewelry. The Diamond Course 14 Diamond Council of America © 1 The Mystique of Diamonds It’s important to remember that people most often buy diamonds to symbolize love or to celebrate personal mile- stones. Sometimes the motivation for buying is obvious – for example, with an engagement ring. -
Of ABBA 1 ABBA 1
Music the best of ABBA 1 ABBA 1. Waterloo (2:45) 7. Knowing Me, Knowing You (4:04) 2. S.O.S. (3:24) 8. The Name Of The Game (4:01) 3. I Do, I Do, I Do, I Do, I Do (3:17) 9. Take A Chance On Me (4:06) 4. Mamma Mia (3:34) 10. Chiquitita (5:29) 5. Fernando (4:15) 11. The Winner Takes It All (4:54) 6. Dancing Queen (3:53) Ad Vielle Que Pourra 2 Ad Vielle Que Pourra 1. Schottische du Stoc… (4:22) 7. Suite de Gavottes E… (4:38) 13. La Malfaissante (4:29) 2. Malloz ar Barz Koz … (3:12) 8. Bourrée Dans le Jar… (5:38) 3. Chupad Melen / Ha… (3:16) 9. Polkas Ratées (3:14) 4. L'Agacante / Valse … (5:03) 10. Valse des Coquelic… (1:44) 5. La Pucelle d'Ussel (2:42) 11. Fillettes des Campa… (2:37) 6. Les Filles de France (5:58) 12. An Dro Pitaouer / A… (5:22) Saint Hubert 3 The Agnostic Mountain Gospel Choir 1. Saint Hubert (2:39) 7. They Can Make It Rain Bombs (4:36) 2. Cool Drink Of Water (4:59) 8. Heart’s Not In It (4:09) 3. Motherless Child (2:56) 9. One Sin (2:25) 4. Don’t We All (3:54) 10. Fourteen Faces (2:45) 5. Stop And Listen (3:28) 11. Rolling Home (3:13) 6. Neighbourhood Butcher (3:22) Onze Danses Pour Combattre La Migraine. 4 Aksak Maboul 1. Mecredi Matin (0:22) 7. -
Crystal Chemistry
Crystal chemistry About a girl’s best friend - diamonds Diamonds, a crystalline form of the chemical element carbon, are the most romantic of crystals, given as symbols of love and permanence. They were first discovered around 800 BC in riverbeds in India. One of the world’s richest source of diamonds is South Africa, where they are mined from rock called ‘Kimberlite pipe’, named after the town Kimberley. Other countries rich in diamonds are Australia, Botswana, Zaire and the former Soviet Union. Diamonds formed in volcanic magma about 170 miles below the Earth’s surface, solidifying as the magma moved upwards and cooled. This took a long time! Diamond The Cullinan diamond, with a mass of 621.2 g, was the largest diamond ever found, mined in 1895. This was a bit big for one engagement ring, so it was decided to cut the diamond into smaller pieces. The diamond cutter spent months deciding how to go about the task, and apparently fainted with shock after first splitting the stone in two. He recovered, and finally nine large and 96 smaller diamonds were produced. The most famous large diamond, called ‘Cullinan I’ or the ‘Star of Africa’ is in the Royal Sceptre and can be seen on a visit to the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. The Cullinan 1 Crown © / The Royal Collection © 2004, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Diamond is the hardest known substance, so can only be cut with a diamond-edged saw! Diamond mass is measured in ‘carats’. One carat is equal to 0.2 g. -
Cut Shape and Style the Diamond Course
Cut Shape and Style The Diamond Course Diamond Council of America © 2015 Cut Shape and Style In This Lesson: • The C of Personality • Optical Performance • The Features of Cut • The Round Brilliant • Classic Fancy Shapes • Branded Diamond Cuts • Shape, Style, and Cost • Presenting Cuts and Brands THE C OF PERSONALITY In the diamond industry the term “cut” has two distinct meanings. One is descriptive. It refers to the diamond’s shape and faceting style. The other relates to quality, and includes proportions, symmetry, and polish. Most customers are familiar with only the first meaning – cut shape and style. That’s the aspect of All sorts of cutting shapes are cut you’re going to examine in this lesson. The next possible with diamonds. lesson explores the second part of this C. For many customers, cut shape and style is part of their mental image of a diamond. Shape contrib- utes to the messages that a diamond sends about the personality of the one who gives or wears it. When presenting this aspect of cut, you need to match the images and messages of the diamonds you show with the customers you serve. With branded diamond cuts, you may need to explain other elements that add appeal or value. When you’ve accomplished these objectives you’ve taken an important step toward closing the sale. The Diamond Course 5 Diamond Council of America © 1 Cut Shape and Style Lesson Objectives When you have successfully completed this lesson you will be able to: • Define the optical ingredients of diamond’s beauty. • Describe diamond cuts in understandable terms. -
Concert & Dance Listings • Cd Reviews • Free Events
CONCERT & DANCE LISTINGS • CD REVIEWS • FREE EVENTS FREE BI-MONTHLY Volume 4 Number 6 Nov-Dec 2004 THESOURCE FOR FOLK/TRADITIONAL MUSIC, DANCE, STORYTELLING & OTHER RELATED FOLK ARTS IN THE GREATER LOS ANGELES AREA “Don’t you know that Folk Music is illegal in Los Angeles?” — WARREN C ASEY of the Wicked Tinkers Music and Poetry Quench the Thirst of Our Soul FESTIVAL IN THE DESERT BY ENRICO DEL ZOTTO usic and poetry rarely cross paths with war. For desert dwellers, poetry has long been another way of making war, just as their sword dances are a choreographic represen- M tation of real conflict. Just as the mastery of insideinside thisthis issue:issue: space and territory has always depended on the control of wells and water resources, words have been constantly fed and nourished with metaphors SomeThe Thoughts Cradle onof and elegies. It’s as if life in this desolate immensity forces you to quench two thirsts rather than one; that of the body and that KoreanCante Folk Flamenco Music of the soul. The Annual Festival in the Desert quenches our thirst of the spirit…Francis Dordor The Los Angeles The annual Festival in the Desert has been held on the edge Put On Your of the Sahara in Mali since January 2001. Based on the tradi- tional gatherings of the Touareg (or Tuareg) people of Mali, KlezmerDancing SceneShoes this 3-day event brings together participants from not only the Tuareg tradition, but from throughout Africa and the world. Past performers have included Habib Koité, Manu Chao, Robert Plant, Ali Farka Toure, and Blackfire, a Navajo band PLUS:PLUS: from Arizona.