Legend of the Rock: All About Diamonds History
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System This booklet summarizes the relationship of Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness to the GIA Cut Grading System for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated within the GIA Cut Grading System. Finish—Polish and Symmetry In the GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant To determine the relationship between finish and overall diamonds, finish (for Polish and Symmetry features) is cut quality, GIA conducted extensive observation testing factored into the final overall cut grade as follows: of numerous diamonds using standardized lighting and viewing conditions. Observations of diamonds with • To qualify for an Excellent cut grade, polish and comparable proportions, but differing in their polish and symmetry must be Very Good or Excellent. symmetry categories, were analyzed to determine the effects of finish on overall cut appearance. In this way, • To qualify for a Very Good cut grade, both polish GIA found that a one grade difference between the other and symmetry must be at least Good. aspects of a diamond’s cut grade and its polish and • To qualify for a Good cut grade, both polish and symmetry assessments did not significantly lower a symmetry must be at least Fair. trained observer’s assessment of face-up appearance, and could not be discerned reliably with the unaided eye— • To qualify for a Fair cut grade, both polish and e.g., polish and/or symmetry descriptions of Very Good symmetry must be at least Fair. -
The Chemistry of Diamond Rings
THE CHEMISTRY OF DIAMOND RINGS Diamond rings are synonymous with engagements; diamond itself is an form (allotrope) of carbon, but other chemical elements can impact on its appearance. Here we look at ‘the 4 Cs’ and their chemistry links, as well as some of the metallic elements that help to make up the ring itself. DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND CARAT 0.25 Ct 0.50 Ct 0.75 Ct 1.00 Ct 1.50 Ct 2.00 Ct 4.1 mm 5.2 mm 5.8 mm 6.5 mm 7.4 mm 8.2 mm SHALLOW IDEAL DEEP Top: weight in carats; Bottom: approximate diameter in millimetres. Diamonds not shown to scale, but are in proportion to each other. The cut of a diamond affects how well it reflects light. Diamond carat measures mass; one carat is equal to two Too shallow or too deep and the reflection of light is poor, hundred milligrams. Diameters are approximate, as they so the diamond seems to sparkle less. vary depending on the cut of the diamond. DIAMOND COLOUR DIAMOND CLARITY RING COMPOSITION WHITE GOLD Au 75% Pd 10% Ni 10% Zn 5% Rh PLATE D → F G → J K → M N → R S → Z F → IF VVS1/2 VS1/2 SI1/2 I1/2/3 ALMOST FAINT VERY LIGHT LIGHT COLOURLESS FLAWLESS OR VERY VERY VERY STERLING SILVER COLOURLESS YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW SLIGHTLY INTERNALLY SLIGHTLY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED INCLUDED FLAWLESS INCLUDED INCLUDED Ag 92.5% Cu 7.5% Pt TRACE Ge TRACE Zn TRACE POTENTIAL ELEMENTAL IMPURITIES GAINED DURING DIAMOND GROWTH 7 5 1 14 15 28 27 YELLOW GOLD Compositions given are NITROGENN BoronB HYDROGENH Sisilicon PHOSPHORUSP NiNickel Cocobalt TYPE Ia TYPE Ib TYPE IIa TYPE IIb approximate for a typical 0–0.3% N 0–0.05% N 0% N B impurities Au 75% Cu 12.5% Ag 12.5% alloy, and can vary slightly (clusters) (diffuse) Most diamonds have some imperfections. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
JEWELLERY TREND REPORT 3 2 NDCJEWELLERY TREND REPORT 2021 Natural Diamonds Are Everlasting
TREND REPORT ew l y 2021 STATEMENT J CUFFS SHOULDER DUSTERS GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY GEOMETRIC DESIGNS PRESENTED BY THE NEW HEIRLOOM CONTENTS 2 THE STYLE COLLECTIVE 4 INDUSTRY OVERVIEW 8 STATEMENT CUFFS IN AN UNPREDICTABLE YEAR, we all learnt to 12 LARGER THAN LIFE fi nd our peace. We seek happiness in the little By Anaita Shroff Adajania things, embark upon meaningful journeys, and hold hope for a sense of stability. This 16 SHOULDER DUSTERS is also why we gravitate towards natural diamonds–strong and enduring, they give us 20 THE STONE AGE reason to celebrate, and allow us to express our love and affection. Mostly, though, they By Sarah Royce-Greensill offer inspiration. 22 GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY Our fi rst-ever Trend Report showcases natural diamonds like you have never seen 26 HIS & HERS before. Yet, they continue to retain their inherent value and appeal, one that ensures By Bibhu Mohapatra they stay relevant for future generations. We put together a Style Collective and had 28 GEOMETRIC DESIGNS numerous conversations—with nuance and perspective, these freewheeling discussions with eight tastemakers made way for the defi nitive jewellery 32 SHAPESHIFTER trends for 2021. That they range from statement cuffs to geometric designs By Katerina Perez only illustrates the versatility of their central stone, the diamond. Natural diamonds have always been at the forefront of fashion, symbolic of 36 THE NEW HEIRLOOM timelessness and emotion. Whether worn as an accessory or an ally, diamonds not only impress but express how we feel and who we are. This report is a 41 THE PRIDE OF BARODA product of love and labour, and I hope it inspires you to wear your personality, By HH Maharani Radhikaraje and most importantly, have fun with jewellery. -
THE CUTTING PROPERTIES of KUNZITE by John L
THE CUTTING PROPERTIES OF KUNZITE By John L. Ramsey In the process of cutting l~unzite,a lapidary comes THE PROBLEMS OF PERFECT CLEAVAGE face-to-face with problem properties that sometimes AND RESISTANCE' TO ABRASION remain hidden from the jeweler. By way of ex- amining these problems, we present the example of Kunzite is a variety of spodumene, a lithium alu- a one-kilo kunzite crystal being cut. The cutting minum silicate (see box). Those readers who are problems shown give ample warning to the jeweler familiar with either cutting or mounting stones to take care in working with kunzite and dem- in jewelry are aware of the problems that spodu- onstrate the necessity of cautioning customers to mene, in this case kunzite, invariably poses. For avoid shocking the stone when they wear it in those unfamiliar, it is important to note that kun- jewelry. zite has two distinct cleavages. Perfect cleavage in a stone means that splitting, when it occurs, tends to produce plane surfaces. Cleavage in two directions means that the splitting can occur in The difficulties inherent in faceting lzunzite are a plane along either of two directions in the crys- legendary to the lapidary. Yet the special cutting tal. The property of cleavage, while not desirable problems of this stone also provide an important in a gemstone, does not in and of itself mean trou- perspective for the jeweler. The cutting process ble. For instance, diamond tends to cleave but reveals all of the stone's intrinsic mineralogical splits with such difficulty that diamonds are cut, problems to anyone who works with it, whether mounted, and worn with little trepidation. -
GIA UV Lamp and Viewing Cabinet* USER GUIDE SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTATION by GIA
GIA UV Lamp and Viewing Cabinet* USER GUIDE SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTATION BY GIA * Patent Pending IMPORTANT! Table of Contents READ THIS USER GUIDE BEFORE SETTING UP General Information.......................................................................................................4 AND USING THIS PRODUCT Device Advantages .........................................................................................................4 Getting Started ................................................................................................................5 Room Light Requirements ...........................................................................................6 CAUTION! The Light Source ............................................................................................................6 The Reference Block......................................................................................................7 Ultraviolet (UV) Light Hazard For best results, device should be used in manner specified by manufacturer. Using the Lamp as a Handheld Unit .........................................................................8 Using the device in any other way may result in decreased protection from UV light. Stone Positioning in the Cabinet ................................................................................9 The device enclosure should not be opened. Unless specified otherwise, there are Parts List.........................................................................................................................10 -
Evaluation of Brilliance, Fire, and Scintillation in Round Brilliant
Optical Engineering 46͑9͒, 093604 ͑September 2007͒ Evaluation of brilliance, fire, and scintillation in round brilliant gemstones Jose Sasian, FELLOW SPIE Abstract. We discuss several illumination effects in gemstones and University of Arizona present maps to evaluate them. The matrices and tilt views of these College of Optical Sciences maps permit one to find the stones that perform best in terms of illumi- 1630 East University Boulevard nation properties. By using the concepts of the main cutter’s line, and the Tucson, Arizona 85721 anti-cutter’s line, the problem of finding the best stones is reduced by E-mail: [email protected] one dimension in the cutter’s space. For the first time it is clearly shown why the Tolkowsky cut, and other cuts adjacent to it along the main cutter’s line, is one of the best round brilliant cuts. The maps we intro- Jason Quick duce are a valuable educational tool, provide a basis for gemstone grad- Jacob Sheffield ing, and are useful in the jewelry industry to assess gemstone American Gem Society Laboratories performance. © 2007 Society of Photo-Optical Instrumentation Engineers. 8917 West Sahara Avenue ͓DOI: 10.1117/1.2769018͔ Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 Subject terms: gemstone evaluation; gemstone grading; gemstone brilliance; gemstone fire; gemstone scintillation; gemstone cuts; round brilliant; gemstones; diamond cuts; diamonds. James Caudill American Gem Society Advanced Instruments Paper 060668R received Aug. 28, 2006; revised manuscript received Feb. 16, 8881 West Sahara Avenue 2007; accepted for publication Apr. 10, 2007; published online Oct. 1, 2007. Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 Peter Yantzer American Gem Society Laboratories 8917 West Sahara Avenue Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 1 Introduction are refracted out of the stone. -
D Lesson 14.Pdf
The Mystique of Diamonds The Diamond Course Diamond Council of America © 2015 The Mystique of Diamonds In This Lesson: • Magic and Romance • Nature’s Inspirations • Adding to the Spell • Diamonds and Time • Diamond Occasions • Diamond Personalities MAGIC AND ROMANCE In most diamond presentations, it’s important to cover the 4Cs. A little information about topics such as formation, sources, mining, or cutting can often help, too. In every pre- sentation, however, it’s essential to identify and reinforce the factors that make diamonds valuable and important – in other words, truly precious – to each customer. After all, purchase decisions involve the head, but the desire to own or give a diamond almost always springs from the heart. That’s the realm of magic and romance. The emotional meanings of diamonds have many origins and they have evolved over thou- sands of years. Diamond’s unique beauty and remarkable properties have helped create some of the deepest meanings. Others have come from cultural traditions, the glamour of celebrities, and the events of individual lives. In a sales presentation, you need to The desire to own or give diamond determine which of these elements will resonate for the cus- jewelry springs from the heart, not from the head. tomer you’re serving. Photo courtesy Andrew Meyer Jewelry. The Diamond Course 14 Diamond Council of America © 1 The Mystique of Diamonds It’s important to remember that people most often buy diamonds to symbolize love or to celebrate personal mile- stones. Sometimes the motivation for buying is obvious – for example, with an engagement ring. -
Carat Weight It's the Old Quandary. Is Bigger Better? Size Is Sought After, Naturally; but Overall Quality Counts in the Stretch
Carat Weight It's the old quandary. Is bigger better? Size is sought after, naturally; but overall quality counts in the stretch. This balance of size and quality makes up much of the art of a professional gem cutter. It is the cutter's job to produce a gorgeous diamond while giving the consumer the highest CARATAGE for his or her money. Caratage means CARAT, the measurement used to weigh a diamond. The word carat is taken from the perfectly matched carob seeds that people once used in ancient times to balance scales. So uniform in shape and weight are these little seeds that even today's sophisticated instruments cannot detect more than three one-thousandths of a difference between them. Don't confuse it with KARAT, the method of determining the purity of gold. What's The Point? One Carat= 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. 142 carats adds up to one ounce. Carats are further divided into points. Carat Weight point system What does all this mean, and how does it work? The price of a diamond will always rise proportionately to the size of the stone. Larger diamond crystals are more rare and have a greater value per carat. So, a one carat diamond of a given color and clarity will be much more valuable than 2 one half carat diamonds of equal quality. Cut As the single human contribution to a polished diamond's beauty, cut is perhaps the most important, yet most over-looked, of the Four Cs of diamond quality. How does cut affect a diamond's value and beauty? A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, its dispersion, its scintillation-in short, its life. -
Crystal Chemistry
Crystal chemistry About a girl’s best friend - diamonds Diamonds, a crystalline form of the chemical element carbon, are the most romantic of crystals, given as symbols of love and permanence. They were first discovered around 800 BC in riverbeds in India. One of the world’s richest source of diamonds is South Africa, where they are mined from rock called ‘Kimberlite pipe’, named after the town Kimberley. Other countries rich in diamonds are Australia, Botswana, Zaire and the former Soviet Union. Diamonds formed in volcanic magma about 170 miles below the Earth’s surface, solidifying as the magma moved upwards and cooled. This took a long time! Diamond The Cullinan diamond, with a mass of 621.2 g, was the largest diamond ever found, mined in 1895. This was a bit big for one engagement ring, so it was decided to cut the diamond into smaller pieces. The diamond cutter spent months deciding how to go about the task, and apparently fainted with shock after first splitting the stone in two. He recovered, and finally nine large and 96 smaller diamonds were produced. The most famous large diamond, called ‘Cullinan I’ or the ‘Star of Africa’ is in the Royal Sceptre and can be seen on a visit to the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. The Cullinan 1 Crown © / The Royal Collection © 2004, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Diamond is the hardest known substance, so can only be cut with a diamond-edged saw! Diamond mass is measured in ‘carats’. One carat is equal to 0.2 g. -
Cut Shape and Style the Diamond Course
Cut Shape and Style The Diamond Course Diamond Council of America © 2015 Cut Shape and Style In This Lesson: • The C of Personality • Optical Performance • The Features of Cut • The Round Brilliant • Classic Fancy Shapes • Branded Diamond Cuts • Shape, Style, and Cost • Presenting Cuts and Brands THE C OF PERSONALITY In the diamond industry the term “cut” has two distinct meanings. One is descriptive. It refers to the diamond’s shape and faceting style. The other relates to quality, and includes proportions, symmetry, and polish. Most customers are familiar with only the first meaning – cut shape and style. That’s the aspect of All sorts of cutting shapes are cut you’re going to examine in this lesson. The next possible with diamonds. lesson explores the second part of this C. For many customers, cut shape and style is part of their mental image of a diamond. Shape contrib- utes to the messages that a diamond sends about the personality of the one who gives or wears it. When presenting this aspect of cut, you need to match the images and messages of the diamonds you show with the customers you serve. With branded diamond cuts, you may need to explain other elements that add appeal or value. When you’ve accomplished these objectives you’ve taken an important step toward closing the sale. The Diamond Course 5 Diamond Council of America © 1 Cut Shape and Style Lesson Objectives When you have successfully completed this lesson you will be able to: • Define the optical ingredients of diamond’s beauty. • Describe diamond cuts in understandable terms. -
Making Measurements and Using Testing Tools for Specific Properties of Gem Materials Gemstones Are Very Small and Hold Concentra
Making Measurements and Using Testing Tools for Specific Properties of Gem Materials Gemstones are very small and hold concentrated wealth. To correctly identify a cut gemstone may in some instances be much harder than trying to identify a piece of rough material. Many gemstone crystals in rough materials have characteristic crystal shape, cleavage, or fracture, but often you can’t see these properties in cut materials — color, density, luster, reflectivity, heat conduction, magnification, and optical properties are ways to look at cut stones non-destructively and identify them. In this lab we will work with some larger stones and make measurements, Such measurements will be applied to specific stones when we learn gems in a systematic way (as we did with minerals) doing individual groups in labs devoted to them. But for now our goal is to learn the instrumentation, including the names and the parts of the instruments. Importantly, we will learn how to handle the testing equipment in a consistent and practical way so as to avoid any damage to either gemstones or to the testing equipment. Measuring gemstones includes their dimensions, weight (or mass), and describing their color, etc. It is sometimes important in their identification as well, a too heavy feeling gem may not be what it appears to be! Weighing Gemstones First 1 gram is 1/1000 (one one thousandth of a kilogram). The kilogram is defined by a piece of metal held in a laboratory in France. However, a gram is also defined as a milliliter of water at 4oC. These measurement units are part of the International System of Units (abbreviated SI from French: Système international d'unités).