Evaluation of Brilliance, Fire, and Scintillation in Round Brilliant
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Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System This booklet summarizes the relationship of Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness to the GIA Cut Grading System for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated within the GIA Cut Grading System. Finish—Polish and Symmetry In the GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant To determine the relationship between finish and overall diamonds, finish (for Polish and Symmetry features) is cut quality, GIA conducted extensive observation testing factored into the final overall cut grade as follows: of numerous diamonds using standardized lighting and viewing conditions. Observations of diamonds with • To qualify for an Excellent cut grade, polish and comparable proportions, but differing in their polish and symmetry must be Very Good or Excellent. symmetry categories, were analyzed to determine the effects of finish on overall cut appearance. In this way, • To qualify for a Very Good cut grade, both polish GIA found that a one grade difference between the other and symmetry must be at least Good. aspects of a diamond’s cut grade and its polish and • To qualify for a Good cut grade, both polish and symmetry assessments did not significantly lower a symmetry must be at least Fair. trained observer’s assessment of face-up appearance, and could not be discerned reliably with the unaided eye— • To qualify for a Fair cut grade, both polish and e.g., polish and/or symmetry descriptions of Very Good symmetry must be at least Fair. -
THE CUTTING PROPERTIES of KUNZITE by John L
THE CUTTING PROPERTIES OF KUNZITE By John L. Ramsey In the process of cutting l~unzite,a lapidary comes THE PROBLEMS OF PERFECT CLEAVAGE face-to-face with problem properties that sometimes AND RESISTANCE' TO ABRASION remain hidden from the jeweler. By way of ex- amining these problems, we present the example of Kunzite is a variety of spodumene, a lithium alu- a one-kilo kunzite crystal being cut. The cutting minum silicate (see box). Those readers who are problems shown give ample warning to the jeweler familiar with either cutting or mounting stones to take care in working with kunzite and dem- in jewelry are aware of the problems that spodu- onstrate the necessity of cautioning customers to mene, in this case kunzite, invariably poses. For avoid shocking the stone when they wear it in those unfamiliar, it is important to note that kun- jewelry. zite has two distinct cleavages. Perfect cleavage in a stone means that splitting, when it occurs, tends to produce plane surfaces. Cleavage in two directions means that the splitting can occur in The difficulties inherent in faceting lzunzite are a plane along either of two directions in the crys- legendary to the lapidary. Yet the special cutting tal. The property of cleavage, while not desirable problems of this stone also provide an important in a gemstone, does not in and of itself mean trou- perspective for the jeweler. The cutting process ble. For instance, diamond tends to cleave but reveals all of the stone's intrinsic mineralogical splits with such difficulty that diamonds are cut, problems to anyone who works with it, whether mounted, and worn with little trepidation. -
Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana
Report of Investigation 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg 2015 Cover photo by Richard Berg. Sapphires (very pale green and colorless) concentrated by panning. The small red grains are garnets, commonly found with sapphires in western Montana, and the black sand is mainly magnetite. Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology MBMG Report of Investigation 23 2015 i Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ............................................................................................................................1 Descriptions of Occurrences ..................................................................................................7 Selected Bibliography of Articles on Montana Sapphires ................................................... 75 General Montana ............................................................................................................75 Yogo ................................................................................................................................ 75 Southwestern Montana Alluvial Deposits........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Rock Creek sapphire district ........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Dry Cottonwood Creek deposit and the Butte area .................................... -
IDENTIFYING and VALUING OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMONDS Richard B
FEATURE ARTICLE IDENTIFYING AND VALUING OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMONDS Richard B. Drucker, GIA GG, Honorary FGA Identifying an old European cut diamond may seem simple but there is a set of GIA standards that determine from their perspective whether it is or is not. This set of standards is not widely accepted by vintage jewelry dealers that struggle with some of the non-calls. For the past several years, prices have risen significantly, sometimes even above the price of a modern brilliant when hard to find and in demand. While that is true in some sizes and qualities, the market is softening in other. uring the past decade, the gemguide has featured will be no cut grade assigned. A polish and symmetry grade several articles on old european cut diamonds. The will still appear. Dfirst article of the same title as this feature here, ap - peared in the November 2010 issue (Volume 29, issue 6). in in our article in 2010, we published the criteria used by the September 2011 (Volume 30, issue 5) another feature article giA to determine if a diamond was to be called old euro - appeared discussing the ongoing dilemma over old european pean cut. They look at four parameters only and today, they cut diamonds, specifically nomenclature on grading reports still consider only those four. Figure 1. The parameters are and the history of cutting styles and cut grading. Today, we as follows. continue to debate nomenclature. Table size: less than or equal to 53% Crown angle: greater than or equal to 40 degrees in November 2012 (Volume 31, issue 6), we published a mar - Lower half facet length: less than or equal to 60% ket trends article showing how the price of these diamonds Culet size: slightly large or larger has continued to rise over the years in comparison to round brilliant cuts. -
Carat Weight It's the Old Quandary. Is Bigger Better? Size Is Sought After, Naturally; but Overall Quality Counts in the Stretch
Carat Weight It's the old quandary. Is bigger better? Size is sought after, naturally; but overall quality counts in the stretch. This balance of size and quality makes up much of the art of a professional gem cutter. It is the cutter's job to produce a gorgeous diamond while giving the consumer the highest CARATAGE for his or her money. Caratage means CARAT, the measurement used to weigh a diamond. The word carat is taken from the perfectly matched carob seeds that people once used in ancient times to balance scales. So uniform in shape and weight are these little seeds that even today's sophisticated instruments cannot detect more than three one-thousandths of a difference between them. Don't confuse it with KARAT, the method of determining the purity of gold. What's The Point? One Carat= 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. 142 carats adds up to one ounce. Carats are further divided into points. Carat Weight point system What does all this mean, and how does it work? The price of a diamond will always rise proportionately to the size of the stone. Larger diamond crystals are more rare and have a greater value per carat. So, a one carat diamond of a given color and clarity will be much more valuable than 2 one half carat diamonds of equal quality. Cut As the single human contribution to a polished diamond's beauty, cut is perhaps the most important, yet most over-looked, of the Four Cs of diamond quality. How does cut affect a diamond's value and beauty? A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, its dispersion, its scintillation-in short, its life. -
Cover Intro Page Page 1 Page 2 Page 3
by 2018 - 2019 Our apologies in advance for JE9604 $4,125.00 JR6576 $1,785.00 any pricing errors. .75twt diamond earrings, Page 2 .25twt diamond bubble ring, 14k white or yellow gold Cover 14k white or yellow gold JN2744-Y $525.00 .10twt diamond freeform JN962 $2,175.00 JN9604 $3,750.00 JN812 $375.00 pendant, 10k white & yellow .33twt round diamond TRIPLE KEY gold, 18" rope chain Genuine 8x6mm oval .75twt diamond necklace, pendant, 14k yellow gold, amethyst & .10twt 18" cable chain, 14k 18" cable chain JN3410 $ 885.00 diamond necklace, sterling white or yellow gold JE2719-Y $2,550.00 silver, 18" cable chain .12twt diamond bar JN3615 $705.00 .75twt inside-out necklace, 14k yellow Page 1 diamond hoop earrings, gold, 18" cable chain .10twt round brilliant cut set in miracle plates, 10k diamond infinity pendant, Intro Page 10k white or yellow gold, JN425-EM $1,650.00 white or yellow gold JE6109 $1,050.00 18" cable chain. JN9609 $3,750.00 6x4mm pear shaped Genuine 6x4mm oval JN895-Y $1,125.00 .75twt diamond necklace, emerald & .15twt round morganite & .20twt JBBSP304-W .25twt princess & round round diamond earrings, 18" cable chain, 14k diamond pendant, 14k white or yellow gold diamond pendant, 10k 10k rose gold Bezel solitaire round white or yellow gold, 18" white or yellow gold, brilliant cut diamond cable chain. Also available 18" snake chain JN6109 $825.00 pendant, 14k white or yellow JE9609 $4,125.00 gold, 18" cable chain in sapphire or ruby 7x5mm pear shaped .75twt diamond earrings, JN576 .25ct $1,350.00 14k white or yellow gold morganite & .10twt round JE425-EM $2,475.00 Round diamond cluster diamond pendant, 10k rose .33ct $1,785.00 pendant, 14k white gold, 18" cable chain .40ct $2,175.00 JN670-Y $2,175.00 Genuine 5x3mm oval gold, 18" cable chain .50ct $3,375.00 .33twt diamond pendant, emeralds & .30twt round .25twt $975.00 JR6109 $1,050.00 .75ct $6,450.00 18" cable chain, 14k diamond earrings, 14k .50twt $1,905.00 white or yellow gold 7x5mm pear shaped white or yellow gold. -
Quartz: a Bull's Eye on Optical Activity
Quartz: a Bull’s Eye on Optical Activity Elise A. Skalwold The Mineralogical Society of America William A. Bassett Title: Quartz: a Bull’s Eye on Optical Activity Authors: Elise Ann Skalwold & William Akers Bassett Edition: First edition Publisher: Mineralogical Society of America, Chantilly, Virginia, USA Copyright: © 2015 by the authors, artists, and photographers. Reproduced with permission. All Rights Reserved. ISBN: 978-0-939950-00-3 Photographer & Designer: Elise A. Skalwold Front cover: Natural quartz crystal 60 x 65 x 40 mm; Hot Springs, Arkansas; ex. Dr. R.W.M. Woodside collection. Back cover: Lab-grown quartz cluster, 140 mm x 90 mm (hydrothermally grown by Mila and Vladimir A. Klipov, R&D XTALS, Inc.). Below: Natural quartz crystals and basal sections. On-going collaboration with Cornell’s Professor Emeritus William A. Bassett is truly priceless to me for this and other projects in the wings, as well as for those over the past eight years of work and research together. Bill shares my enthusi- asm for exploring the fascinating aspects of the classical science of mineralogy, and as my co-author he sets the highest bar for accuracy. All students should be so lucky to have such a mentor. Elise A. Skalwold, 2015 Ithaca, New York Mineralogical Society of America Quartz: a Bull’s Eye on Optical Activity Elise A. Skalwold [email protected] William A. Bassett [email protected] Both Authors: Department of Earth & Atmospheric Sciences Snee Hall, Cornell University Ithaca, NY 14853 All photographs: Elise A. Skalwold Figure 1. The “bull’s eye” uniaxial optic figure characteristic of quartz is indicative of its optical activity. -
General Information- Michigan's Gem Stones
CONTENTS: INDUSTRIES MAP —————— FACING I GENERAL INFORMATION- —————— I MICHIGAN'S GEM STONES- —————— 4 ASSAYS AND TESTS———— ————— I I ARTICLES, PERIODICALS, BOOKS- —————12 SOCIETIES—————————————————— ———— 23 MUSEUMS—————————————————— ———— 26 GEOLOGIC TIME SCALE ———— 30 GEOLOGIC MAP —————— ————— 3 I NMICHIGAN DEPARTMENT OF CONSERVATION ^GEOLOGICAL SURVEY DIVISION FREE DISTRIBUTION ONLY PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION The first edition, published in April, 1958 was needed in responding to queries following a mineral show on the Depart- ment T-V program "Michigan Conservation11. The second edition, July, 1959) was characterized by the addition of the section on gem stones* An abstracted version of the second edition titled "Pebbles to Pendants" was published in the July, 1958 issue of "Michigan Conservation". The present 'third edition is another major revision. Among the new materials added are: l) bedrock geologic map, 2) mineral industries map, 3) rock column and time scale, 4) mineral and fossil sketches, and 5) locality sketch maps* These, along with the cover, were prepared by Jim Campbell of our staff. The book list has been expanded and several titles were added to the articles list. Suggestions received from Arthur Johnstone, of the Michigan Mineralogical Society, were particularly helpful. Information regarding mineral and lapidary businesses may be found in the appropriate advertising media as well as from many of the clubs. Robert W. Kelley, Geologist Geological Survey Division Michigan Dept. Conservation March, I960 Lansing MICHIGAN'S MIN ERAL EXTRACTING INDUSTRIES D NON-METALLIC B BRINE H SALT 0 CLAY 0 SHALE 9 DOLOMITE H LIMESTONE 13 SAND& GRAVELCPRINCIPAL AREA) H GLASS SAND 0 GYPSUM B SANDSTONE D MARLCPRINCIPAL AREA) B PEAT • MISCELLANEOUS STONE A METALLIC L COPPER A IRON O FUELS <D GAS • OIL MAJOR FIELDS € OIL & GAS INDIANA O H I O GENERAL INFORMATION INTRODUCTION Interest in collecting minerals and gem stones and in doing lapidary work certainly is on the increase today. -
Gemstones2.Pdf
The Science of Gemology Gemology can be defined as the science of gems. It is most closely Minerals as Gemstones allied with mineralogy, drawing on knowledge of chemistry, physics and geology. Knowledge of physics and chemistry aids in understanding the physical, chemical, and optical properties of minerals. Geological knowledge allows an understanding of the origins and probable natural sources of gemstones. Gemology is not only concerned with the study of natural gem materials, but also with gem testing and evaluation methods, the cutting, polishing and mounting of gem-quality specimens, as well as identification of the distinguishing properties and aesthetic value (grade) of synthetically manufactured gems. Gemologists must also concern themselves with the properties, value and sources of precious metals, as well as the market value of gems and precious metals. What constitutes a gemstone ? Gems traditionally held in highest esteem are diamonds, rubies, “Gemstone” is a collective term for all “stones” used for personal adornment (i.e. as jewelry) or for other ornamental uses. sapphires, emeralds, and some varieties of opal. However, large, high-quality specimens of semiprecious gems (e.g. Tourmaline) The term is usually restricted to “stones” of natural origin, however, often command a very high price even in their natural form. there are “synthetic gems”. Prepared precious gems Not all gemstones are minerals as such (e.g. amber, pearl, coral, jet, opal, ivory, petrified wood). Some are rocks (multimineralic). A “gem” can be thought of as a gemstone that has been cut and/or polished to accentuate its beauty. Gemstones are generally divided into two main categories: Precious gems: characterized by great beauty, durability, stability, large size and rarity. -
Cut Shape and Style the Diamond Course
Cut Shape and Style The Diamond Course Diamond Council of America © 2015 Cut Shape and Style In This Lesson: • The C of Personality • Optical Performance • The Features of Cut • The Round Brilliant • Classic Fancy Shapes • Branded Diamond Cuts • Shape, Style, and Cost • Presenting Cuts and Brands THE C OF PERSONALITY In the diamond industry the term “cut” has two distinct meanings. One is descriptive. It refers to the diamond’s shape and faceting style. The other relates to quality, and includes proportions, symmetry, and polish. Most customers are familiar with only the first meaning – cut shape and style. That’s the aspect of All sorts of cutting shapes are cut you’re going to examine in this lesson. The next possible with diamonds. lesson explores the second part of this C. For many customers, cut shape and style is part of their mental image of a diamond. Shape contrib- utes to the messages that a diamond sends about the personality of the one who gives or wears it. When presenting this aspect of cut, you need to match the images and messages of the diamonds you show with the customers you serve. With branded diamond cuts, you may need to explain other elements that add appeal or value. When you’ve accomplished these objectives you’ve taken an important step toward closing the sale. The Diamond Course 5 Diamond Council of America © 1 Cut Shape and Style Lesson Objectives When you have successfully completed this lesson you will be able to: • Define the optical ingredients of diamond’s beauty. • Describe diamond cuts in understandable terms. -
Making Measurements and Using Testing Tools for Specific Properties of Gem Materials Gemstones Are Very Small and Hold Concentra
Making Measurements and Using Testing Tools for Specific Properties of Gem Materials Gemstones are very small and hold concentrated wealth. To correctly identify a cut gemstone may in some instances be much harder than trying to identify a piece of rough material. Many gemstone crystals in rough materials have characteristic crystal shape, cleavage, or fracture, but often you can’t see these properties in cut materials — color, density, luster, reflectivity, heat conduction, magnification, and optical properties are ways to look at cut stones non-destructively and identify them. In this lab we will work with some larger stones and make measurements, Such measurements will be applied to specific stones when we learn gems in a systematic way (as we did with minerals) doing individual groups in labs devoted to them. But for now our goal is to learn the instrumentation, including the names and the parts of the instruments. Importantly, we will learn how to handle the testing equipment in a consistent and practical way so as to avoid any damage to either gemstones or to the testing equipment. Measuring gemstones includes their dimensions, weight (or mass), and describing their color, etc. It is sometimes important in their identification as well, a too heavy feeling gem may not be what it appears to be! Weighing Gemstones First 1 gram is 1/1000 (one one thousandth of a kilogram). The kilogram is defined by a piece of metal held in a laboratory in France. However, a gram is also defined as a milliliter of water at 4oC. These measurement units are part of the International System of Units (abbreviated SI from French: Système international d'unités). -
The Ideal Brilliant Cut: Its Beginnings to Today
MICHAEL D. COWING is the author of Objective Diamond Clarity Grading, an educator, gemologist and appraiser operating an Accredited Gemologist Association Certified Gem Laboratory. His career in diamonds, gems, and gemology spans 35 years. The Ideal Brilliant Cut: Its Beginnings to Today Figure 1. Face-up view of the Ideal Figure 2. 20° Tilt from face-up Figure 3. 20° Tilt forward from the side Cut at its beginning in the 1860’s view of the early Ideal Cut. view of the early Ideal Cut. time frame. Figure 4. Face-up view of today’s Figure 5. 20° tilt from face-up Figure 6. 20° tilt forward from the side view Ideal Cut with fundamentally the view of today’s Ideal Cut. of today’s Ideal Cut. same main angles as the early Ideal. Introduction back angle1.“ It was also known in Europe around the turn of the 19th century as the American Cut. The Ideal Cut’s Since its beginnings in the early 20th century to the present appearance is transformed in Figures 4-6 with today’s day, confusion and misunderstanding has frequently proportions, (larger table size, longer lower girdle facets, surrounded the use (or misuse) of the term “Ideal Round thicker girdle, etc.), while retaining the same fundamental Brilliant Cut,” its defining properties and origin. Some have crown and pavilion main angles which are key to its beauty. advocated eliminating its use altogether. Through the examination of the Ideal Round Brilliant Cut’s (Ideal Cut The Ideal’s beginning with the American Cut hereafter) evolution, this article endeavors to clear up its history, clarify its defining properties and in the process The beginning of today’s Ideal Round Brilliant Cut was the dispel the misunderstanding and mythology surrounding this design attributed to Henry Morse and his diamond cutting most popular of diamond cuts.