DEVILS LAKE NORTH DAKOTA

NORiH DAKOTA STATE LIBRARY Bismarck, N. D. 58501

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^ ^6-191^ BICENTENNIAL HISTORY r- .)'"(=

F A Bicentennial 644 history of Devils Lake, ,D49 North Dakota. D4£x

NORTH DAKOTA STATE LIBRARY BISMARCK 58505

August 15,"77 NORTH DAKOTA NORTH DAKOTA STATE LIBRARY BOOK OR AUTHOR I III I III " I • mini ,,„ 3 3105 00040 3574

BICENTENNIAL HISTORY

OF

DEVILS LAKE,

NORTH DAKOTA

PUBLISHED JUNE 1976 UNDER AUSPICES OF THE DEVILS LAKE BICENTENNIAL COMMITTEE

PRINTED BY NESS PRINTING COMPANY DEVILS LAKE, NORTH DAKOTA

North Dakota State Library Bismarck, N. D. 58505 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Material for this book was written by the following people:

Mrs. Morris Barks Mrs. Everett Brash Mrs. F. H. Gilliland Mrs. W. A. Green leaf Mrs. Rex Hermanson Mrs. Harold Home Leo Konzak Oliver Leet John Logan J . C . McCormick Merle Millar Mrs. Elmer Mosbaek Allen J. Petersen James Storm Mildred Wertenberger Ed Wilcox Mrs. Fred Wilson

Editing Committee

Mrs. G. H. Sumnicht Mrs. C. A. Cranna James Kling Beatrice Larson Mrs. A. G. Schmid Mrs. E. J. Weed Mrs. Morris Barks

- II - F

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0-1

FOREWORD

In this Bicentennial year of our nation, 1976, it is fitting to recognize those who have contributed to the early development and continued growth of Devils Lake and the surrounding area.

We have tried to record some of the colorful and historic events that have taken place. It has been our aim to make the information contained in this book accurate and as complete as space would permit. If we have fallen short of our goal, we ask your tolerance and understanding.

Our sincere thanks to the people who have spent many hours doing research, interviewing, writing, and in many ways assisting in the completion of this book.

The Devils Lake Bicentennial Heritage Committee

- in - mt» — \^i(o This was the winning entry in the Devils Lake American Revolution Bicentennial logo contest, designed by Millie Weed, Devils Lake.

- iv - TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1 — History of Devils Lake 1

Chapter 2 - The Story of "Enchanted Waters" 37

Chapter 3 — A History of North Dakota Chautauqua 45

Chapter 4 — The Steamboat "Minnie H " 65

Chapter 5 — Fort Totten 71

Chapter 6 — The 7th Cavalry 77

Chapter 7 — Graham's Island 81

Chapter 8 - Sully's Hill National Game Preserve 83

Chapter 9 — Agriculture 85

- v - City of Devils Lake - 1898

FLOUR MILL

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MERCY CATHOLIC HOSPITAL CHURCH 'ST r.

BUDOE City of Devils Lake - About 1902

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PROSSER i t, SERUMGARO <

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&& I This map of" Township No. 154 North, Range No. 64 West, 5th Principal Meridian, in Dakota Territory is a copy of the true copy authenticated by Carter Fessender, surveyor general in the U. S. Surveyor General's office in Huron, Dakota Territory, filed on September 13, 1883. Note the location of Creelsburg in lower center next to the lake.

- VIII - CHAPTER I The Townsite - Land Office

Romantic as the original name of the summerof 1884. From the Coulee 20 miles lake after which our city is named is the northwest of Devils Lake to the nearest history, legendary and real, of Devils settlement in the Turtle Mountains, there Lake.Named "Mini-Wakan" by the Indians was a stretch of 52 miles without any kind who first inhabited this area, the lake was of settlement. The first notices of proof of called "Enchanted Waters" by early ex­ claims made in the Devils Lake Land Of­ plorers or by another interpretation, "Spirit fice as published in the North Dakota Inter- Water". It was not until after the advent Ocean, October 27, 1883, were to Vic- of the white settlers that the misnomer toriaCharboneau for the NE3 of Section 9 "Devils Lake" displaced its more romantic of what is now Bush Township in Eddy name. County, and Sydney B. Spencer for lots 2-4 In fact, the townsite itself first bore insection4of what is now Tiffany Township the name net of the lake, but of its founder, in Eddy County. Land not claimed by Lieutenant Herber M. Creel, who in 1882 Homestead files was available for sale at surveyed a townsite on the north shore of $125.00 a quarter. the lake, and named it Creelsburgh. The As the amount of land available for post office established November 1, 1882, homesteading decreased, seven of the dis­ under that name was renamed Creel City trict land offices, including the Devils on February 28, 1883. Lake office, were consolidated, and their Two factors which had an incalculable records transferred to the Bismarck office. impact on the settlement of the area were On August 4, 1948, this office, too, was the locationof the U. S. Territorial Land closed and all records from the Bismarck Officeandthe arrival of the railroad. The office were transferred to the Bureau of Devils Lake Land District, consisting of Land Management Department of Interior, nearly six million acres, had been opened Washington, D .C . The era of land home- for settlement in 1882. Few people visited steading in North Dakota had come to an that year, but as the railroad advanced, end. reports were spread about the area, and Ramsey County was first organized as a by 1883, many eager settlers had arrived. county even during territorial days. Under That summer on August 1, 1883, with H. Territorial Governor Ordway, three com­ W. Lord as registrar, the United States missioners were appointed: Dwight W. En­ Government Land Office was opened in sign, E. V. Barton and Thomas C . Saun­ Devils Lake. That summer 39 townships, ders, who convened for the first time at most of them adjacent to Devils Lake were 10:00 a.m. January 25, 1883. Governor surveyed and made subject to claim. Flats Ordway was one of the principal stock­ of 13 of the 159 townships in the district holders in the Devils Lake City Syndicate, were received by the land office by Feb­ which virtuallyassured Devils Lake's being ruary, 1884. Ninety percent of the land named the county seat. In the election of in these townships had been filed by Jan­ a county seat, on November 4, 1884, uary 21, 1884, leaving only 22,080 acres Devils Lake received all but 75 votes out still subject to claim. In the 6 million of a total of 628 votes cast. acres in the district, there were 37,500 Atone time, due to the same influence claims of 160 acres each, less than ten of Governor Ordway, it seemed possible percent of which were filed before the that Devils Lake wouldbe named territorial

NORTH DAKOTA TELEPHONE COMPANY I A Member of Continental Telephone System

GROWTH THROUGH BETTER SERVICE capital. The contest was between Yankton spring or summer of the next year at a cost and Devi Is Lake. The latter had two strong of $22,387.30. The commissioners con­ factors — it was more centrally located, vened for the first time in their new quar­ andwasmoreaccessible by rail. However, ters on February 17, 1888. Attendance at six of the nine territorial commissioners a gala courthouse ball held February 14 being from south of the 46th parallel, was noticeably less than was hoped for due Yankton was voted the capital. to a typical winter storm. This structure housed the county offices until 1960 when Started in 1887, the first Ramsey Court­ it was torn down and the present modern house was completed sometime during the courthouse was erected. Railroad' Even more significant in the history of as a village in 1883, the city was incor­ Devils Lake than the locating of the Land porated in 1884 with the Honorable H . C . Office was the arrival of the railroad Hansbrough as its first mayor, followed by whose role in the settlement of the A. O. Whipple, Clark W. Kelly and Ole entire territory is supreme . Not only did Serumgard. it bring in droves of settlers, it actually The decision to locate the depot of the determined where towns would be estab­ St. Paul, Minneapolis and Manitoba rail­ lished. Many townsites did move from road in Creel City, "1,200 feet south of the earlier sites to a more desirable location Lakeview house in the very heart of the on the railroad, or simply died because business portion of the city, " was made they were "inland" towns. aftera party of St. Paul officials composed Creel City was one of several rivals for of James J . Hill, President, General Man­ the location of the station of the St. Paul, ager A. Manvel, andChief Engineer Colo­ Minneapolis and Manitoba Railroad, then nel Smith traveled by train from St. Paul to being laid westward from St. Paul. Other Bartlett (the end of the line at that time) sites in the struggle included Devils Lake in the president's special car, then by City, a settlement located "perhaps two sleigh from Bartlett to the north shore of miles or so southeast of the present city"; Devils Lake, to Creel City. Here they Dana's Grove (Minnewaukan post office) were received by Lieutenant Creel and "another two miles or so southeast"/ and other gentlemen of the city, who led the still farther along the lake shore, the site inspection tour of the several potential of Odessa. Another rival site "seven miles sites, with the result that Creel City was almost due south of our present city" was the one chosen. Rock Island. Many months of bitter and A large force of men were employed in bloody conflict among these rivals finally building the "Manitoba " from Bartlett to ended when, according to the May 26, Devils Lake in the early summer of 1883, 1883 issue of the Inter-Ocean Newspaper. laying tracks at the rate of one and a half Creel City ultimately won the battle for milesa day. The completion of the line to the location of the station of the Manitoba Devils Lake was celebrated on July 4, Roads. It was at this time, by order of the 1883, when the locomotive General Crooks railroad, that the townsite was named drew the first train into the city with James Devils Lake, though the name of the post Keeley, engineer, andconductorCopeland office was not officially changed until in charge. Mr. Naugle was the station January 14, 1884. Despite periodic at­ agent. This event was further augmented tempts to restore one or another of the by the fact that Captain Heerman made his earlier names of the lake or of the town- first trip with the Minnie H that same day site, this name has prevailed. Organized to its landing within a few yards of the MF Dakota Implement, Inc. Massey Ferguson »

PHONE 662-4925 DEVILS LAKE, N. D.

-2 - railroad. A later spur connected the rail-:' W. Kelly, reached to Hansboro, via road with the steamboat landing. When Starkweather, and later became a branch Devils Lake celebrated its Golden Jubilee of the Great Northern. In 1907, the Great in 1 933, one of the leading attractions was Northern "cut off" between Devils Lake the exhibition of the famous General and Fargo through Aneta was completed. Crooks locomotive alongside one of the Although always vital to the economy huge steam locomotives then in use. of the area, with inflated operational costs The choice of Devils Lake as the rail­ and increased competition from truck and road station site paid off for the city in automobiles, railroads faced a difficult subsequent railroad development, forDevils financial period after World War II. To Lake was destined to become an important alleviate the financial stress of operating division terminal of the Great Northern the lines serving the midwest,four lines — Railroad of which the St. Paul, Minne­ the Great Northern, the Northern Pacific, apolis and Manitoba was the predecessor. The Chicago, Burlington and Quincey, Extensive shops costing $160,000, a round and the Seattle, Portland,and Spokane — house, and a coal dump were constructed merged into what is now called the Bur­ in Devils Lake in 1907, servicing trains of lington Northern, in March 1970. This this division throughout the era of the system now serves the area from Chicago steam locomotive. With the gradual con­ to Denver, and from Chicago to Seattle to version to diesel engines for power, Portland, Oregon, to Bieber, California. the round house became obsolete and was Also, after years of deficit operation, torn down. The coal ramp burned in a spec- passenger trains seemed destined for obso­ tacularfire in the fall of 1945. The Inter- lescence. To salvage passenger service, Ocean. May 11, 1906, records that the the Federal Government in May of 1971 Great Northern purchased 60 acres of land assumed the fiscal operation of all passen­ at Sweetwater Lake for a pumping station. ger trains under the new Amtrak system, In negotiations for locating the Great and through such government subsidy, Northern shops at Devils Lake, a letter limited passenger service is still opera­ from Louis Hill, son of James J . Hill, to tional. One passengertrain each direction Mayor McClory of Devils Lake provided daily, the Empire Builder, now runs through that if housing were made available for Devils Lake from Chicago to Seattle. the influx of employees who would operate the shops, Devils Lake wouldget the shops, ' otherwise they would be located at Breck- St. Paul, Minn. & Manitoba R'y enridge or Minot. A group of enterprising and forward-looking citizens, of whom Round Trip Ticket. Robert Col linson is the only original stock­ STUB—Not good for Passage \ holder living today, formed the Home In­ y MI€HI«AX dW / vestment Company to provide the nec­ c essary homes on 8th and 9th streets, and To ^p- f-"rl% (y 6~ Devils Lake became an important railroad ZBMH&Jj*2a£kJZZ. 18(/L center from then on. • • • Thr{W«iikioT/thi»Klub»iii! Tloket mill be fllMdoai w h INE K. T FV " - T>oootm»kBretur u; nfrunrn U Mill, ReporIffllladout l The railroad was extended west of Devils Dh 11 if £ | W»HR m&k« ll Tot*.»Dd return ll jtiih Report w tk* Lake in 1886. In time branches led out v \ from Devils Lake to Brandon, Manitoba viaChurchs Ferry and Cando; the Farmer's Copy of round trip train Grain and Shipping Company, organized ticket, Michigan City to and built in 1902 by Colonel Joseph M. Devils Lake, 1884. Kelly who served as president until 1936 when he was succeeded by his son Dennis RAMSEY National Bank & Trust Company OF DEVILS LAKE, NORTH DAKOTA

-3 - TRANSCONTINENTAL SERVICE RKAD OOWN

No. 195 No. 5 No. 3 No. 1 Tablo No. •» No. 2 No. 4 No. 6 No. 196 Kx. Su. ! Daily Daily Daily Central Time O Daily Daily Daily Ex. su.; I '

2 25 PM 1 25 PM 39t>|l . Devils Lake 32 . . Aril IIS. 8 10 PM : 4 15 PM } 35 PM 120 PM : 2 40 P* 1 40 PM 403 . .Grand Harbor I III K 3 20 JM 1 0SP» 1 2 52 PM 1 54 PH 100 Pen n 1 3 05 PM 12 53 PM 1 : 3 05 PM 2 13 111 414 Church's Ferry 32 MOO 3 35 PM 2 50 PM 12 40 PM i. To x 2 28 PH 422 Nile, ISAM - — \ x 2 28 PM From h 428 Leeds irandon 2 40 PM 1388 ! 3 10 PM 2 15PII Jlrandonr 2 55 PM 132 York 38 i 2 55 PM; 2 02 PM 3 05 PM 438 Kuox 1375 1 47 PM 44 I 1 8 wood 3 20 PM . . . Pleasant Lake 1370! K '< 135 PM x 3 28 PM 448 Fero 1306 x 1 25 PM See Table 3 45 PM 05 PM 463 Rugby 39 1301 6 30 PM 2 20 PM 115 PM Tablo 41. 488 Tunbridgc 1366 4l_ x 3 57PM 464 g x 102PM 4 12 PM Berwick 1350 g 12 50 PM No. 325 172 No. 326 4 32 PM 33 PM •ISO .. . .Towner 40 13421 5 51PM 143 PM 12 33 PM Mixed 4 47 PM Denbigh 1334 g 12 05 PM Mi»od Ex. Su^ Riga 18281 Ex. Su. 4 59 PM 486 I 11 50 AM 6" 60 AM 5 45 r» 5 20 PM 492 Granville 41 1322 5 20 PM 103 PM 11 35AM 5 00PM 5 40 PM 4011 Norwich 1316 11 15AM 6 38 AM No. 221 Surrey 130X1 K No, 222 6 20 AM 6 1SPM 5 55 PM goo 1100 AM Ex. Su. 6 45 m Ex. Jiir_ 6 20 PM 45 PH ! 15AM 513 A. Mlnot 11,41,42 .Lv 13011 4 45 PM 12 20 PM 10 45 AM 600 AM ! 25 AM Lv Mlnot Ar 1301; 4 35 PM 12 05 PM 11 45 AM I UN 6 40 PM O0PM 613 10 25 AM xll 34 AM X 3 26 PH X 6 51PM 619 Ciaastnan 12(15! xlO 12 AM Raletori 12(12 K xll 26AM x 3 351* 522 11 18AM 3 46 PM 7 07 PM .',27 Den I.oes 1287 9 66 AM 1-oiie Tree 12S3 11 35 AM 11 09 AM 4 HH 7 15 PM 531 X 9 45 AM 7 2SPM B.rthold 42 1278 9 35 AM 11 00 AM 4 lOW 630 11 17 AM 64 1 Rooeh 1273 7 48 PM Tagus 1268 9 15AM To 646 10 59 AM From 8 04 PM 552 Blaisdoll 1282 x 9 01AM Orosby 8 19PM| Palermo 1255 8 47 AM Crosby See 669 10 §3 AM See 553 Winans 1251 Table 140 PM Stanley 1247 3 06 PM 8 29 AM Table 42. 507 10?8AM 42. 8 55 PM 576 Ross 1230 8 15AM 9 16 PM 57(1 Manilou 1235 X 8 06 AM 9 38 PM 687 WliiU- Earth 1227 3(>A 7 61AM 691 . . l'urdon 1223 9 54 PM 51)5 .I'ioga 1219 7 34 All 10 08 PM 801 Temple 1213 x 7 21 AM 10 21PM WIT Rnv 1207 8 55 AM. 7 09 AM 10 32 PM 1112 Wlieelock 1202 g 6 54 AM 10 44 PM 817 Epping 1197 g 6 43 AM 10 57 PM 633 Spring Brook 1191 g 6 32 AM No. 22S 1110 PM 112(1 Avoca 1185 x 6 21AM No. 230 1180 Daily 11 30 PM 684 Ar . WlllUton Lv 8O0AM 6 10AM Daily Mountain Time ti:*4ll.v. . . WlllUton . . Aril ISO 05 PM 6 55 AM 7 15 PM 64ll Todd . .1173 x 6 42 AM x 700PM Page from railroad schedule u40i Trenton 11U8 x 6 32 AM 6 46 PM 650| Marloy '1164 x 6 24 AM 6 37 PM 1911 showing number of trains 6551 . . Buford, N. Dak ,. . 1159 6 15 AM 625 PM 857 Mondak. Mont 'l 157 6 05 AM 612 PM daily in and out of Devils toy ennni. If filled oat 8021 .Tampion 1012 12 45 PM 1 return It wltb Report to the 807 Vandalia 1007 f 12 32 PM HT,Ei, ? 816' Hinsdale (Mis _ 12 46 AM 12 12 PM 824 Beaverton . xll 63 AM yfj 8291 Saco. . . 12 24 AM 1142AM 835 Aehnold.. fo xll 31AM Copy of round trip train 843 Hot' loin . . fo Ixll 21AM S50 Strater . . — fo xll 00AM ticket from Michigan City to end of track, 1884. For footnotes, sec next page. Bold face figures Indicate P. M. time; light face A. M.

Farmers Union Oil Co.

ELMER STENS0N, MANAGER

PHONE 662-^01^* DEVILS LAKE, N. D.

-4 Business Growth and Development

When it became apparent that Creel and plasterer". Because many of the busi­ Citywould be selected as the railroad and nesses were diversified, it is often diffi­ land office site, General Creel, who had cult to accurately categorize them. "squatted" on the north shore and had al­ The first restaurant, opened by Stevens ready surveyed the townsite, through his and Staplesfrom Durand, Illinois, was the townsite syndicate, opened the sale of lots. Lake Home Restaurant, on the corner of 4th Engineer John Grondal and his brother street and Farrington Avenue (now 5th platted the townsite and recorded the plat avenue). This establishment also had a July 25, 1883, with John Farrington as bakery, and its owners also set up lodging trustee of the Townsite Company. The plat rooms on the upper floor of a nearby gro­ contained 1,137 acres of land, divided cery store, the Brecket Grocery. R. J. into 170 blocks and 22 shore lots, for a Wille was proprietor of the first general total of 3,585 lots. Early settlers recall store, a 20 x 24 foot structure with a 24 standing on the depot platform tossing foot additional space in the rear. Dry stones into the lake to amuse themselves goods, groceries, boots and shoes, and during waits between trains. The office crockery were available at Wille's. building of the Townsite Company, known James S. McCay, the first attorney, as the headquarters building, and built by arrived in May, 1883, and set up his real Richard Turpin, was the first business house estate, claims and insurance office over a intown. In the scramble for best locations, hardware store. even before the town plat was officially One of the first to buy lots in Devils filed, 300 lots were sold as fast as nego­ Lake was G. W. Caster, who built the tiations could be completed. During the first private residence in town, and who month of May 1883, 65 buildings were operated the first farm implement dealer­ erected, the beginning of the early phen- ship. Caster was for sometime the only ominal growth of the city. Starting with John Deere dealer in Ramsey County. On two buildings in April, by June the town the corner of 4th street and Farrington Av­ had long lines of business houses. Most a- enue, V. J. Smith operated the first hard­ mazing in this growth is the fact that so ware store; W. J . Christie, who came here much occurred before the railroad was from Olmstead, Minnesota, was the town's built, when building supplies had to be first blacksmith; J. C. Klein, who also hauled overland by sleigh or wagon, mostly kept horses and carriages for hire, oper­ from Bartlett. ated the Lakeview Livery and Feed in one A newspaper listing of these earliest of the first buildings erected; Pasquale De business firms of the young boom town in­ Fiare wasthe original ice cream and candy cludes-21 real estate, insurance, loan and man of Devils Lake; E.J. Talmadge, the other legal businesses; 12 general stores; first sign writer; Walker and Rawson open­ 10 cafes and/or saloons; 7 lumber and farm ed the first barber shop on the corner of 4th equipment firms; 6 hotels; 6 building and and Kelly; E. Graham from St. Paul is the contracting firms; 4 hardware stores; 3 only jeweler listed; Moore and Dood whole­ livery stables; 3 drug stores; 2 banks; 2 saled and retailed fresh and salt meats in doctor's offices; 2 bakeries; 2 harness and a two-story building 16 x 50 in the rear of shoe repair shops; 2 laundries; one.of each the Lakeview House. Hans O. Berg de­ of the following: barber shop, icecream livered the first load of wheat to Devils and confectionary parlor, sign writer, Lake during the summer of 1884. From eight flourandfeedmill, meat market, jeweler, acres sown upon sod breaking, Berg threshed blacksmith, surveyor, and one "fisherman 133 bushels and hauled it to the elevator

ESTABLISHED 1885

THE FIRST NATIONAL BAIVK OF J)EVILS LAKE DEVILS LAKE, NORTH DAKOTA 5830! August 23rd. It graded No. 1, and the the lake and bay for 25 miles. Harry Wa|- yield was considered large for sod wheat. bridge waschief clerk. Again, lumber was The W. C. Stoughton Dry Goods and hauled by sleigh from Bartlett. Grocery Store, caught in the early lumber One hotel established at that same time shortage, was forced to open in a tent in survived until very recently. Named the 1883. Later the business outgrew four loca­ Benham Hotel, in 1883, after its founder, tions, each more spacious than the last. Major Benham, it passed through several The Pioneer Hotel, the first hotel, hands, and had three name changes. About whose ownercame from Minnehaha County 1893, the name was changed to the Sevilla in Minnesota early in 1883, would accom­ Hotel, then, when purchased by Clarence modate 75 guests. Lumber was hauled over Edward Gray, it became the Grayson Ho­ the snow in mid-winter for its construction. tel, so-named until it was wrecked inl 968 That first spring was the Lakeview House. to provide parking space for the present Allen and Company, who came to Devils Super Valu. Throughout its history it had Lake in January of 1883, started construc­ occupied the corner of Kelly Avenue (now tion of the 200 room hotel on 4th Street in 4th Avenue) and 6th Street. Other early April, and completed the building by May hotels still surviving are the Colonial Ho­ 1. J. W. Ross, contractor and builder of tel, founded before 1 900 by a Mr. Van- the hotel, came to Devils Lake with a derhoff and the Great Northern, begun in dozen men to work on the Lakeview. Three the fa 11 of 1909, with hopes "to be open in stories high and 60 x 75 feet, it fronted time for the summer Chautauqua season. " on 4th Street and commanded a view of One of the finest hotels in the state at that

t

THE OLD SEVILLA HOTEL, MOST RECENTLY THE GRAYSON HOTEL, RAZED Lake Ready Mix, Inc. FREE ESTIMATES

PHONE 662-4071 - 662-3021 DEVILS LAKE, N. D. time, it afforded a fine view of the lake September of 1975, E. Earl resumed the and the Sully's Hill area. E . A. Wilson was office of president. Fourth generation the owner. Allan Young, son of the former Jane Mann, The oldest bank still doing business in is currently general manager. Devils Lake is the First National Bank. Other nineteenth century businesses Abram O. Whipple, who founded the bank, presently in operation in town include arrived in Devils Lake on one of the first Huesgen's Jewelry, 1886, believed to be trains in 1883, from Northfield, Minnesota, one of the oldest jewelry stores in the and opened for business in 1885. Original­ state. Herman Huesgen founder, was suc­ ly located on 5th Street west of the Steam ceeded by his son Herman, Jr., who op­ Laundry, (now Majestic Cleaners) it moved erated the store from 1926 to 1956. In 1929 to the building on the corner of 4th and 4th the store was robbed by three bandits, and in 1887, where it was located until the two years later extensively damaged by present new building was completed in fire. Third generation James B. Huesgen, 1975. Robert Collinson became the presi­ who also purchased the Bjomson Jewelry, dent of the bank in 1940, and was suc­ merged the two businesses when his father ceeded by his son James in 1968. The Ram­ died in 1956, and operates on the corner sey National Bank and Trust Company also of 4th and 4th. E.W. Gilbertson, the has had a long history, having been in white man to conduct a funeral on the business here since September 16, 1891. reservation, founded the Gilbertson Funeral Founded by C. M. Fisher, its present Home in Devils Lake in 1896. It is president is Fred Hoghaug, whose son Lynn currently directed by LaVerne Gloger. heads the Trust Division. Peavey Elevator Company in Devils Lake The Powell-Kunkel Insurance and Real since 1888, first used the name National Estate Agency is believed to be the oldest Elevator Company. continuous business, still involving the Two men's clothing stores established founding family. Founded July 1, 1883, during the first decade of the present cen­ by Albert M. Powell, who came to Devils tury and still remaining in the founding Lake in April, 1882, it passed to his son family are Glickson's, founded by Morris Arthur A. Powell May 1, 1916. Arthur who Glickson in 1907 and now owned by his was born in Devils Lake February 2, 1896, grandson Dave Glickson, and Shark's, operated the agency alone until 1948, founded by Herman Shark in 1 909 and cur­ whenArne Kunkel became a partner in the rently owned by his son Myer. Also in the business. The company is currently owned original family is Kelly's Loan and Real by Roger Kunkel and Kenneth Frey, though Estate Office. First established as the Mr. Powell, now officially retired, still Northern Investment Corporation in 1902 makes daily visits to the office. by Colonel Joseph M. Kelly and currently Another of the earliest businesses still run by his son Dennis Kelly, this corpora­ operating in Devils Lake is Manns Depart­ tion was instrumental in the building of ment Store. Beginning in a rented room in the Farmers' Line Railroad, the Bank df 1884, the business occupied many loca­ Webster, the Journal Office, the Grand tions prior to the construction of its present Opera House, and others. building in 1906. Established by Francis Three downtown drug stores have enjoy­ (Frank) W. Mann in April 1884, the bus­ ed long histories of operation: Bell Drug, iness has remained in the family throughout founded in 1902 by Albert M. Bell; Ramsey its history. E. Earl Mann, who became Drug, 1907, whose founder John A. Moran president of the corporation in 1942, re­ remained a partner in the business for years, tired from the presidency in February 1975, and only recently sold out of the family; when his nephew the late Rev. J. Adin and Devils Lake Drug, now Getz Rexall, Mann became president. At his death in which was established by Elmer Engebret-

We're proud to have been Hwy. 20 North selected to print this ness Devils Lake, N. D. Bicentennial History printing <^ 662-2552 // \\ // / / / I l» son in 1916, later operated by his sons back from Canada on their way to their Duane and Glenn, who retired and sold feeding grounds farther south. the business inl 972. Drug stores flourished "Many reasons have been assigned for during the Prohibition days, when a rash this sudden disappearance. Some writers of high alcohol content cough syrups, in­ attribute it to the wanton slaughter of the digestion remedies, hair tonics, etc., buffalo by professional hunters, sportsmen suddenly flooded the market. To get a and soldiers, but the most important fac­ piece of the lucrative business, "numerous tor was that the winter killed the buffalo. drug stores appeared on every corner" ac­ The severe winters from 1877 to 1883 left cording toa reliable patron of that period, the prairie strewn with bones. That these only to succumb when Prohibition was re­ buffalo perished instead, of being slaught­ pealed. ered, was proven by the fact that on the Many of the pioneer businesses have south side of protecting hills the bones become obsolete in the courseof progress, were the thickest. or for one reason or another no longer "The settlers all took part in this buffalo exist. One of the going businesses that Lt. bone business — the prairie people as we|| Creel displayed to the James Hill inspect­ as the islanders. There were bone markets ing party was an ice-cutting industry on at Devils Lake, Minnewaukan, New Rock- the lake. This business, together with ice ford, Carrington, Leeds and other points storage and delivery, fell by the way with to the west. Almost every merchant was a electric refrigeration. A brick factory, dealer in buffalo bones and it was not an the Devils Lake Petrified Brick and Stone uncommon sight to see buffalo bones piled Company, once flourished here, and up along the railroad tracks in huge piles manufactured the bricks from which the resembling hay stacks in size. present f! re ha 11 as well as the old Farmers' "The price paid was around $6.00 per Mill were constructed. One of the most ton and a good ox team could easily haul interesting of these bygone industries is the two or three tons depending on the size gatheringandselling of buffalo bones. The and strength of the wagon. Upon delivery late Senator Usher L. Burdick has described of the bones we would be given credit at this industry in a story written for the 75th the store for our load and, in case we did Jubilee edition of the Devils Lake Journal, not choose to spend all our proceeds at excerpts from which appear below: that time, the balance would be written "Gathering, hauling and selling buffalo on a neat receipt in language and figures bones was an early day business. At one as follows: time (Graham's Island) and the surrounding Minnewaukan, Dakota Territory, June country, was a great buffalo range. When 6, 1885 the buffalo were driven from the early Received from Ozias W. Burdickthree settlements a long the Red River they found tons of buffalo bones at $6.00 per ton. a new route to Canada by trailing farther Total credit $18.00 to the west. Lake Jesse in Griggs County, Goods received in payment $11 .00 the Sheyenne Valley and the Devils Lake Balance due in trade $ 7.00 region became a buffalo range. When that Signed J. W. Brown, Merchant country settled the buffalo moved on far­ These receipts were called Buffalo Bone ther to the west until 1883. Then their Money as the balance due would be re­ flight north and south was in central Mon­ deemed by the merchants in goods to the tana. By the opening of the November original holder or his assignee if properly hunting season, in 1883, the buffalo had endorsed. We could trade at Devils Lake disappeared entirely. Many hunters who or any other Buffalo Bone Market, or any had made large investments to hunt that market in the country, and receive full fall, waited in vain for the buffalo to come credit in goods and merchandise for the FIRST FEDERAL SAVINGS & LOAN ASSOCIATION THEi "WE LOOK TO YOUR FUTURE WITH INTEREST" MONEY PAYING THE HIGHEST ALLOWABLE SAVINGS RATES GROWERS RSSOCIRTrOtM PH: 662-5306 ACROSS FROM THE HOLIDAY MALL

-8 - remaining $7.00. The assignee could do The depression in the 1930'sandthe the same thing. This buffalo bone money opening of the State Mill at Grand Forks circulated and was the medium of exchange caused serious financial reverses. Many and I can find no instance where they did small mills inthe state were forced to close not redeem the promise made". down, though the Farmers' Mill hung on. During the depression, farmers exchanged Devils Lake has never been a major in­ wheat for flour, and creamery checks for dustrial center. One industry that operated feed; workers were on the job from 7:00 here successfully for many years, however, was the Farmers' Mill. In the early spring a.m. to 6:00 p.m . six days a week; to boost of 1905, a number of farmers residing near the sale of feed, baby chicks (up to Devils Lake met to plan the erection of an 10,000perday) were given with purchases elevator and mill for processing their own of chick starter. And the Mill stayed sol­ and their neighbors' wheat — the first vent. The coal and fuel business also pro­ purely cooperative venture in the area. vided added revenue during this difficult period. In the severe winter of 1935-36, With stocks valued at $50,000, held they handled 140 cars of Velva lignite. A by many stockholders, building began im­ small sawmill was installed which processed mediately. Opened September 15, 1905, and packaged cord wood for fuel from a the elevator handled 125,000 bushels of lumber mill inBemidji. wheat that first fall, paying farmersa prem­ Two brands of flour were sold — Dakota ium of 2$ extra per bushel more than their Best and Blue Ribbon. • Both white and competitors were paying. The mill, built whole wheat flour of the highest quality of stone from the local Petrified Brick and were milled, as well as a low-grade flour Stone Company, was completed and oper­ called 'Clear Flour" which was shipped to ating by mid-January, 1906. Equipped New York via the Great Lakes. Three with the most up to date machinery, the cereals were processed and packaged — mill, elevators, office, warehouse and cream of wheat, "Brownies" and "Wheat real estate represented a cash investment Nut Flakes". The biggest milling problem of $42,000. was obtaining a good hard high-protein Fred Baker from Edmore was hired to wheat; Marquis wheat was the best, though operate the mill, and with Frank Breakey because it was very susceptible to rust, it as salesman on the road, the mill did a was not always available. flourishing business, supplying local bak­ The mill operated until 1945 when it eries and grocery stores, besides serving could no longer continue competitively townsalong the Great Northern, the Sarles without major remodeling and re-tooling. branch, and the Churchs Ferry branch, The company transferred to feed, certified north to the Canadian border, and on the seed, and fertilizer processing. In 1951, Soo Line as far west as Van Hook. Their when fire destroyed the mill and elevator daily capacity was 100 barrels, or 200 98- structures, there was much deliberation be­ pound sacks of flour. Mr. Baker retired in fore rebuilding. Mr. Kelly continued in 1919, and Milton Kelly began a 47-year the business until his retirement in 1966, tenure as president, manager, and secretary when the company was sold to the Peavey of the corporation. Elevator.

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-9 Transportation Just as there have been industries and sition been as evident as in transportation. enterprises that have discontinued over the Freight and passengers first arrived in Da­ years, so too have there been whole indus­ kota Territory by ox cart, horse drawn wag­ tries that have come into being since the ons, or, in winter, sleds. As soon as the turnof the century. For example, the fuel railroad arrived, distance travel was by industry has passed through such a transi­ train almost entirely, though local travel tion, from coal and wood burning to oil to was still horse-drawn. Automobiles, in­ gas to electricity for heat; from kerosene troduced soon after 1900, quickly gained to gas to electricity for lights; from coal popularity during the first two decades of and wood to oil to gasoline or deisel fuel the century, and livery stables and harness for power. In the early sixties the Northern dealers, and blacksmith shops gave way to Seed and Feed, founded by H. L. Harold- garages and car dealers and service sta­ son, remained the only business of the ori­ tions. Until roadsand snow removal equip­ ginal seven coal dealers still selling the ment became adequate, however, cars various kinds of coal. The last notable were used for the most part in summer only, coal users were the United States Post Of­ and winter travel was by "bobsled", "cut­ fice, the Ottertail Power Plant and the ters", or horse-drawn "buses " on sleds. If Carnegie Library. In the building industry, they were lucky enough to go to school in plywoodsand insulation boards have been the winter, children living in the country added to dimension lumber and boards— either moved to town to live with friends logsandsod having long since disappeared or relatives or were hauled to town in from the scene; plaster board has sup­ covered "buses", sometimes heated with planted lath and plaster, cement blocksare cylindrical "oil burners" or equipped with most often used in place of poured cement; charcoal footwarmers. Trains, particularly and plastics are increasingly being put to branch lines and the Soo, were most co­ surprising uses in buildings. operative in accommodating the rural trav­ Perhaps in no other area has this tran­ eler, often stopping to pick up or drop off

When the first official passenger train of the Soo Line rolled into the newly- built depot at the north edge of Devils Lake in 1913,this group of dignitaries and passengers was on hand for the official photograph. Also waiting to board was two-year-old Adolf Bryn (at far right in 1912 Overland touring car, held by his mother.) The train left Devils Lake and stopped 10 miles west at the farm of the late John P. Sjoberg,Bryn's grandfather. The Sjoberg farm in Grand Harbor Township was a frequent stop for the Soo line train in those days.

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- 10- passengers at farmsteads along the way. urity regulations. Alf Jaster, another early The late Pastor K. O. Raftshol, who lived pilot, eventually became the chief airline at Churchs Ferry, served Norway Church pilot for a southern commercial airline west of Devils Lake and Our Savior's in company. Ray Douglas was also among Harlow. He often took the Great Northern the early pilots. to Devils Lake, then the Soo west to Har­ Spurred by the great advancements in low, orto reach Norway Church, he would aviation during World War II, the owners be let off at the John Sjoberg farm, where of Bell Airport incorporated the Lake Re­ he often went with the Sjobergs by sleigh gion Flying School in 1946, with Dr. tothe church. Similarly, he was on occa­ Glenn Toomey as president, Bob Stro­ sion dropped at farmsteads farther west en- hecker vice president, and Harold Kelly route to his other churchs. Automobiles, secretary. Beginning with three World War however, were here to stay, and by the II surplus J-3 Piper Cubs, they soon had 1920's,the "surrey with the fringe on top" franchises for numerous makes of planes, was a rarity, and by 1930, a novelty. In including Air Coupes, Cesnas, Aroncas, a very short time, dealerships in all the and Stensons. With Frank Bringham as in­ latestcarmakes were established in Devils structor, at one time as many as 127 flyers Lake. loggedatBell Airport, including both men This same period another novelty ap­ and women among the students, most of peared — the airplane. During the old whom qualified for the Civil Aeronautics Chautauqua Days, a popular and intriguing exams, but very few of whom acquired novelty was exhibition flying by daring their private licenses. 'barnstormers". Shortlyafter World War I, The Municipal Airport grew out of an Bert Wick purchased the first airplane in emergency landing field built during World town, a Curtis Robin with an O-X-5 en­ War II for Naval Training Flights to Al­ gine, using a short landing strip where the aska and as a defense emergency facility. present highway shops are located. The Given to the city by the Federal Govern­ earliest pilot who gave flying instruction ment, on March 1, 1959, the airport wel­ in Devils Lake was Bruce Wright. Bob comed the first commercial flight, when Strohecker, one of Wright's "students" in NorthCentral Airlines began their service 1928, had one single hour of instruction, here. Since-then, the airstrips have twice then through experimenting on his own in been extended, first to 150 x 4,300 feet a "pasture, he literally taught himself to in 1959, then again in 1968 to 5,500 feet. take off and to land the plane, practicing Improvements include the installment of until he finally dared actually to fly it. navigational aids, rotating beacons, non- As interest grew and the number of directional radio beacon and ground to planes increased, the original landing air radio installed by NorthCentral in strip proved inadequate. In the early 30's 1959, Vertical Omni-range installation in Dr. Toomey, Harold Kelly, and Frank 1968, and distance measuring equipment Bringham bought land east of town from installed two years later. In 1966 a torna­ Albert Bell, and with two remodelled sheep do damaged or destroyed 12 planes and two buildings. The present terminal was built sheds, one rotating beacon, and one wind in 1962, later enlarged, and a fire truck sock, Bell Airport was born. Soon, under and security check recently added. a WPA project, a fine runway was con­ structed. Emmett Stapleton, hired as fly­ In addition to the North Central term­ ing instructor, operated the first official inal, DanWakefield, who moved from Bell flying school in the area. In 1941, Lynn Airport when the Lake Region Flying School Huey and Dr. Toomey bought a Rearwin corporation dissolved, now operates his plane which they flew during the difficult own flying school at the municipal airport, World War II years of heavy wartime sec­ and also flies charter flights and operates

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- 11 - a crop dusting service. With the Foss and full-time owners, operators and employers Meyer Company, there are about fourteen at the airport now. Fire Department A disastrous fire in 1884 devastated the was elected fire chief, and department entire business district, including the spa- members were appointed to the various ious Lakeview Hotel, then only a few companies. In May, 1902, Mr. Mann was months old. Again in 1895, a major fire succeeded by C . O. Russell, who held of­ ravaged the west half of the business block fice until 1915. Green was elected assis­ between 4th and 5th streets, this time de­ tant chief, A.M. Bond secretary, and Al stroying the Commercial Hotel. The city Haslam treasurer. quickly recovered from these disasters, re­ Others serving as chief were: L. D. placing most of the buildings with brick Snell, 1915; J. D. Stenson, 1921; L. D. structures. Learning from these experiences, Snell, 1922-1923; H. W. Hofmeister, it is little wonder that the city fathers went 1933-1936; W. K. Nimmo, 1937-1944; great expense in improving the meagre fire- Dean Jacobson, 1 944; Bert Smutz, 1945; fighting facilities at their disposal. Clarence Christianson, 1946-1966; Floyd "On October 11, 1883, a number of Reardon, 1966-1974; William Oehlke, people held a meeting in Johnny Bell's 1975 to the present time. barn to form a volunteer fire department, " Chemical fire fighting was instituted according to an account of an early his­ in 1908. "Until 1912, the department used tory of the department contributed to the the City Hall in the Locke Block, which Daily Journal in 1933 by the late George was later known as the World Building, as Crook, then assistant chief and secretary. headquarters. That year the present fire "In those days it was the duty of all persons hall was built on 5th street. During that on the sound of the alarm, to help. " From same year, the department purchased a this inauspicious beginning and after the team of horses, known as 'Nancy' and two serious fires of 1884 and 1895, the 'Dick'. They were trained to come out of Devils Lake Fire Department has grown their stall and stand under the apparatus into one of the state's finest fire-fighting on the sound of the alarm. William Hurst units. was the trainer. Up until 1912, the first In 1884 a hand pumper and hose cart team arriving at the fire hall on the sound (usedfor about 10 years) was purchased by of the alarm received an award of $5.00. the department. That same pumper, which A. D. Tuttle and the late George Cham­ had been sold to the Dunseith department, ber had many a hard run to see who could was brought back in 1910, refinished to be get there first, " Crooks account said. preserved as a museum piece. Following In 1917, horse drawn fire trucks were the second fire, a steam engine was pur­ discontinued. In April of 1922 the depart­ chased, and the department reorganized. ment purchased two trucks, which convert­ The following were elected chiefs and ed it into a motorized department. foremen of the several companies: J. Bell, W. Hurst, Sr., Edward Pierce, Dr. In 1930 the city commission, purchased W. Horsman, A. Horsman, C. W. Kelly, 2 Mack pumpers, one a 500 gallon capa­ F. P. Mann, Sr., C . P. Brainard, Sr., city and the other a 600 gallon capacity. and C . W. Green. The department sold the old truck and pur­ chased a truck for hook and ladder use. On April 28, 1900, a meeting was call­ A chief's truck was added in 1927, an ed by W.H. Brown, mayor, for all persons electric fire siren in 1928andanH&H interested in the reorganization of the de­ Inhalator in 1929. The electric siren was partment. On May 2, Fred P.Mann, Sr., used until 1937 when the Otter Tail Power OWNERS THE BOAT YARD OPERATORS Dean Dean Joey FOR RENT - BOATS, MOTORS, PONTOONS FOR SALE - MINNOWS, NIGHTCRAWLERS, TACKLE, POP, Joey Doni Doni Kent CANDY, SANDWICHES, LICENSE, GAS & OIL Kent Jay Located on Beautiful Lakewood Beach Jay Kraut PHONE 662-^786 FOR RESERVATIONS Kraut

- 12 was asked to sound its steam siren to cover on a Ford chassis, purchased by the Devils a larger area. A federal fire siren was Lake Fire Department in 1971 . The snorkel placed on the fire hall in 1952 and shifted provides a hydrant in the sky. Included in toa taller standard on the Memorial Build­ the fire fighting equipment on the truck is ing in 1956. There are 10 beds at the a 1,000-gallon-per-minute water pump. Devils Lake Fire Hall. Seven "sleepers" The basket has a capacity for carrying six stay there every evening and paid firemen persons and has water piped up to the top spend every fourth night at the station. with breathing air also piped up for the There is someone on duty at the station 24 operator. It takes two men to operate the hoursaday, sevendaysa week. Even when unit. Since 1930, the Devils Lake Fire De­ the department is out on call someone stays partment has been able to maintain a Class back to man the station. Six rating, which enables Devils Lake The latest thing in fire fighting equip­ businessmen to enjoy a favorable fire in­ ment is the 64 foot snorkel unit, mounted surance rate. Newspapers In the field of mass news media, as in in May 1883 —The Press, edited by Sam transportation, Devils Lake has kept abreast Trendwell, with A. M. Powell, as assis­ of the times. The city of Devils Lake has tant editor. Both these weekly newspapers boasted one or more newspapers since the were apparently short-lived, soon to be Creel City Inter-Ocean was launched by replaced by the Journal, the roots of which Bickham W. Lair, at least as early as April "were planted in 1 903 by a group of stock­ 7, 1883. Published every Saturday, the holders who organized a weekly paper to Inter-Ocean cost subscribers $2.00 a year. promote the gubernatorial candidacy of The paper's name waschanged to the North John Burke, "with John Bloom as publisher. Dakota Inter-Ocean June 22. 1883, after The Journal was changed to a daily in Creel City had become Devils Lake; then 1905, and was published in an upstairs on October 11,1884, it became the Devils room over the present Glickson store. In Lake Inter-Ocean. Editor of the Inter- 1911, the Journal Publishing Company Ocean was the political figure, Senator moved to its present location. The Devils Henry C. Hansboro. Active in the con­ Lake World, originally the organ of the tention over the selection of the railroad Non-Partisan League, was purchased by site, theeditorpublished many very color­ Ben Stefonowicz in 1922. His son Gordon ful stories in its early issues. One of the operated the World until he sold the paper Inter-Ocean's opposition papers appeared to Richard Peterson in 1973. Radio - Television While newspapers are still vital as atti. Bert Wick, an energetic young ham- media of information and interesting read­ radio operator, and his buddy, Harold ing, new types of media have developed Serumgard, both bookkeepers for the here as elsewhere. Farmers' Grain Company, set up the first In the early 1920's, few people in the radio sales business in the area. To spur Devils Lake area even owned a radio, and sales, which were not exactly booming, if they did, it was a battery-powered, they decided to start a radio station in three-dialed set, perhaps with only head Devils Lake. Wick sent a letter requesting phones, over which — if the weather and permission to start the station to Herbert atmosphere conditions were just right —the/ Hoover, then Secretary of Commerce, in­ might hear programs from KDKA in Pitts­ dicating they would like the call letters burg, WLS, Chicago, or WLW in Cincin- KDLR. Since there were at that time few MR. SOFTEE MOBILE SOFT ICE CREAM & CONCESSIONS UNIT "WE GO ANYWHERE" Contact La ne Jacobson Ph: 662--2655

13 - government regulations for radio licensing, first church service broadcast was from a simple affirmation from Mr. Hoover was Westminster PresbyterianChurch. St. Olaf sufficient. They received their license to Lutheran Church has been on the air for operate on 15 watts on January 25, 1925. the longest time, their first broadcast hav­ With years of experience as a Naval radio ing beenaired October 11, 1925. Services operator to his credit, Wick had the ex­ from St. Olaf were broadcast on a bi­ pertise to build the necessary equipment, monthly basis for about four years, then and with an adapted telephone as a make­ weekly until 1934. After being off the air shift microphone, he broadcast his first about two years, the broadcasts were re­ program, mainly phonograph records, from sumed in 1936, and have continued weekly his residence at 1025 3rd Street, on Jan­ since that time. Norwegian services were uary 31, 1925. also broadcast twice a month on Sunday This first test program was heard by afternoons, until these were discontinued listeners withina radius of about 40 miles. in 1 933. Subsequent early broadcasts were mainly weatherand market reports and some music. Literally "starting from scratch", KDLR Mrs. Carl (Inez) Nerhaugen presented the has become a sophisticated and vital media First live broadcast, a pipe organ program of pub lie service. In 1960, the station be­ from the Grand Theatre downtown. The came the official U. S. Weather Station, first public address over KDLR was given by and is currently the emergency action no­ Attorney Torger Sinness, who spoke on tification station for the area. Operating "The Life of George Washington and the now from its new station built in 1967 on a First Continental Congress". Broadcast on 96.7 MC with 3,000 watts power. KDLR Washington's birthday in 1 925, this was also has been affiliated with the Associated the first broadcast from the station's first Press^ News Service since early in the downtown studio, which was located up­ 1960's. A thriving enterprise employing stairs in the Devils Lake Journal building. approximately twenty full-time workers, A series of moves and of difficult financial KDLR celebrated its 50th anniversary of periods during the depression years fol­ service during the year 1975. lowed. At one time the station even was In recent years, TV has been added to threatened with losing its license; after our local mass media, when WDAZ., a winning survival, they increased their branch of Fargo's WDAY, began operating power from 15 to 100 watts. from studios in Grand Forks and Devils Better times brought paying advertising Lake, January 27, 1967. Studio and broad­ and regular programing. Manns Depart­ cast facilities are on Highway 2. WDAZ ment Store was the first advertising ac­ offers news, entertainment and special pro­ count, in June of 1925, followed soon by graming to the Lake Region from its NBC other downtown merchants. The Farmers' network affiliation, encompassing an area Grain Company had a regular program for within a radius of 75 to 100 miles from many years, as well as Kelly's Store. The Devils Lake. City Water Supply Despite early optimism concerning the mon salt and "traces of potash, lime, and quality and adequacy of Devils Lake's magnesia, a combination enervating and water supply, problems arose almost from strengthening in the extreme". It was freely the beginning. The high hopes of the first usew..v-d^ foiwri drinkingui mrviiiy, anundu mutrmuchi enjuycenjoyedu foivr settlers are reflected in a report in the k,,l-U: r-^l_...:__ i- ... . _r.L ' I. July 7, 1883, Inter-Ocean, which reads bathing . Glowing predictions of the area's that the water of the lake contained com- becoming a health spa grew out of such i... ii-r^ f|me |s nQt faf jjjjigflt when

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14 this will be one of the great watering voted to drill a third one. Again, to al­ places, drawing invalids and pleasure leviate a serious water shortage which seekers from all parts of the country, and struck the city Saturday, December 9, the shores of the bays will be covered with 1950, the city commission in emergency innumberable bathing houses for the accom­ session awarded a contract for a fourth odation of all and immense bottling works artesian well. Drilling of this well began will put upthousands of barrels of the heal­ January 15, 1951. ing balm, which will be distributed over Many residents will recall that during all the world." (Inter-Ocean, July 7, this period, drinking water was obtained 1883, as reprinted in the Devils Lake from the city pump at the sheriff's home, Journal, June 28, 1957.) where citizens formed lines each evening This attitude of optimism soon faded. to fill their containers with fresh drinking By 1887, the city was already faced with water. Or, to the more affluent, water serious water problems. Surface wells had was delivered to the subscriber's homes by served to supply the town with enough HolbeckWater Company. While the water water up to this time, most residents sink­ from the artesian well was hygenically safe ing their own wells a mere 25 to 75 feet. for drinking, it was highly saline, and for These wells, however, did not meet the many people completely unpalatable. needs of fire protection, sewers, sprink­ Hotel rooms tactfully displayed signs at ling, and other necessities for the growing their water faucets warning their patrons population. Already the Minneapolis and of the disagreeable taste and laxative qual­ Northern ElevatorCompany found the flow ities of the water. Devils Lake became of their 160-foot well inadequate, though known as the town with the worst drinking the water was soft and palatable. A rail­ water in the state. Most people made road well 300 feet deep furnished good jokes, perhaps more in earnest than in water with a stronger flow, but was still jest, about its distasteful flavor. On one inadequate as a source of municipal water occasion, the band auxiliary for a Band supply. An artesian well seemed to be the Follies program presented a cleverly writ­ answer. ten spoof on the "distinctive "and "unique" It was recommended by the city council water in Devils Lake . It was less than hum­ on November 12, 1887, that the voters be orous, however, when promising industries asked to bond the city for $12,000 for drill­ turned to other locations because of the ing a 1,000 foot well and for "the neces­ shortageand the poor quality of our water. sary piping to distribute the water through Finally/in March of 1961, the commis­ the principal thoroughfares and also for sion approved the sale of $915,000 in building a city hall. " Voting on the bond bonds to begin a project to bring a muni­ passed, January 5, 1888, by 123 votes. cipal water supply 19 miles from the War­ By July of that summer, drilling was in wick area. When work began in the spring, progress. According to an item in the June $1,503,741 had been contracted for the 21, 1938 Devils Lake Journal, this well project, with a completion goal of 1962. was still functioning on that date, when it On August 16, 1961, a 24-hour test pump­ was reported that Otter Tail workmen in­ ing produced 624 gallons per minute, a stalled a new spiral elevator type pump at total of nearly 1 million gallons, twice the the artesian well on 5th street, "the first average daily consumption of Devils Lake artesian well drilled in Devils Lake in users. The laying of the 19 mile pipeline 1888." At some point before July 27, was nearing completion on that date. A 3 1949, a second artesian well was drilled. million-gallon reservoir just south of the On this date in the city, faced with a city was built, and on December 7, 1 961, critical water shortage when one of the 1.5 million gallons of water was pumped two artesian wells then in use failed, into the reservoir. Devils Lake's reputation HUESGEN'S JEWELRY V1AM0NV HEADQUARTERS - 5INCH IS86 Corner of 4th & 4th Devils Lake, N. D, HAPPY BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

15 for having the worst water in the state has ourcity signs now read, "Best Water Any­ a new ring. With more truth than boasting, where! " School s Among the earliest concerns of the School was built in the same block as Old pioneers who established residency in Central, facing east. All of these schools Devils Lake, were schools and churches. except Pershing have since been torn Records reveal that in its first summer of down — Old Central to make room for the existence, the city organized and incor­ present Central High School in 1936 and porated the Devils Lake School District. 1937. Lincoln School was reported to have A survey made by J. F. O'Brien found been the building whichat one time housed that 83 pupils we re eligible for enrollment. a commercial college, originally located The first public school in Devils Lake ac­ on the corner of 4th Street and 10th Av­ cordingly was opened November 5, 1883, enue. It was moved to a site between 10th with Mrs. O. B. Corsett who had had and 11th Streets on Minnewaukan Avenue, teaching experience in Michigan, in and finished in a brick veneer in 1912. charge. School was held on the lower Both Washington and Lincoln Schools were floorof a building on the corner of 4th and torn down after being vacated upon com­ Farrington. The school district was reor­ pletion of three new elementary buildings ganized as a special district on November — Prairie View, on the east edge of town; 14, 1889. Minnie H in the south end of town and The school term of 1885 enrolled 110 Sweetwater in the north end. These three students, with two teachers employed. buildings had facilities for about 25 units One of these, John F. Cowan, later be­ of elementary grades. The expansion pro­ came county superintendent of schools, gram in recent years includes: a large wing District Attorney, Attorney General and added to Central High School in 1965, District Judge. which has met the need for extra units in By 1889, school was being held in a elementary grades, for special education frame school building on the corner of 4th classes, the Art department and the over­ Street and 7th Avenue, where later the flow of high school units; two room addi­ Washington Elementary School was built. tions to both Prairie View and Sweetwater After overcoming many obstacles, Mr. L.B. in 1 967; a library and two rooms to Minnie Fancher, then the superintendent, added H in 1969; and the most recent, a library anaccredited high school, which grad­ and music room at Sweetwater in 1975. uated its first class of two young men in Superintendents who have served the the spring of 1893. Both of these young public schools are: L.B. Fancher, 1884- men, Samuel Rainville and Albert C. 1890; John A. Haig; R. S. Dewar; W. A. Baker later became medical doctors. Goddard;Y. G.-Barne!!; Nelson Sauvain; As the publicschool rapidly outgrew its 1916-1930; F.H. Gilliland, 1930-1959; first building a new structure was built at Clarence Erlandson, 1959-1970; andDr. the end of Kelly Avenue, facing 7th Street. Richard Kunkel, presently serving since This new school, known as Central School, 1970. was occupied for the first time in the fall From the beginning of his superinten- of 1898, originally housing the entire dency, it was the dream of Mr. Gilliland school system. As the need for larger fac­ to expand the public school system from 12 ilities arose, two additional elementary to 14 years through the addition of a two schools were built — Washington in 1908, year college course. Accordingly, on and Lincoln in 1912. In 1913, to fill the September 1, 1930, the Devils Lake Junior need for a separate high school, Pershing College and Business school was established

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- 16 as part of the Devils Lake Public Schools. ed that a maximum space facility had to Mr. Gilliland assumed the duties of pres­ be constructed, an expanded college com- ident, with Henry Wol I as dean and business plexconsisting of a gymnasium, two class­ instructor. After a decade of faltering but room wings, the Paul Hoghaug Memorial encouraging results, the plans of the com­ Library, the centrally located Pioneer Hall munity for establishing a junior college Auditorium, a student center, and two were approved by the State Board of Higher fifty-room dormitories were added. The Education, in August 1941 . Classes were new campus opened in the fall of 1966 opened for enrollment that fall in the old witha full-timeenrollmentof 385 students. Pershing High School structure in down­ In November 1966, the State Board of town Devils Lake. Although more than Vocational Education designated Lake thirty students registered that September Region JuniorCollege an area vocational- the enrollment dropped to fewer than fif­ technical school. This designation made teen after war was declared, and during federal funds available to the college for the war period, classes continued at this building purposes, and in 1967, a $250,000 level of enrollment. local bond was passed by the school district ,After the war enrollment increased to voters for the construction of a vocational approximately 100, but the Korean con­ shop and a technical building. Two dorm­ flict caused the enrollment to drop drastic­ itories financed by self-liquidating bonds ally. In 1958 the Board of Education de­ were constructed. In 1973, the Erlandson cided that the college would either have Building housing the vocational shops, to grow or close. A citizens' committee and Gilliland Hall, a three-story dormit­ was formed to recruit students. In 1960 ory, were dedicated. From the founding of more than 100 students enrolled. Three the college in 1941 until 1959, finances hundred enrolled in the fall of 1964, and came directly from local district taxes and were assigned to classes in seven different student tuition. The 1959 Legislature ap­ rented buildings in Devils Lake. In response proved payment of state aid to junior col­ to the need for adequate space, taxpayers leges with enrollment of more than 100 approved a $375,000bond, which, coupled students if they met standards set by the with a federal grant of $270,000, made Board of Higher Education. Lake Region possible the construction of a new aca­ JuniorCollege qualified the following demic and administration building on a year. tract of land north of the School for the During these early trying years, Mr. Deaf. Gillilandcontinuedas president. When he When the projected enrollment indicat­ resigned as superintendent of the public

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17 schools, he was succeeded by Clarence Vo-Tech school and the remainder'in their Erlandson, but continued at the college for respective high schools. twomore years. Deans underMr. Gilliland A complete Roman Catholic parochial included Henry Woll, F. R.McKenna, school system is also provided in the St. Manville Lillehaugen, Julian Rolzinski, Mary'sAcademyand St. Joseph's Elemen­ and Richard Davison. Merrill Berg suc­ tary School. The Mercy Sisters, who op­ ceeded Mr. Gilliland as dean in 1962 erated the Devils Lake hospital, also had with Mr. Erlandson as president. In 1967, an Indian School at Belcourt. When this aBoardof Trustees, directly responsible to school burned, the Sisters decided to move the Board of Education, was appointed, their school and motherhouse to Devils which is the operating board of the col­ Accordin | LI 9 y, a large motherhouse- lege. The original members of this board school building was erected in 1908, just were Wi I lard A. Greenleaf, chairman, east of their new hospital. The Sisters DonLange, William Bergstrom, Dr. J. K. opened their academy in 1 909 to the chil­ Galloway, and David Glickson. Of these, dren of the parish, also receiving boarding three are still serving, Dr. Galloway and students from outlying areas. In 1947 an Glickson having been succeeded by Richard auditorium-gymnasium-classroom addition Maetzoldand Mary Ann Cavanaugh. Mer­ was built at St. Mary's Academy. rill Berg was elected president of the col­ lege by the new board of trustees in 1 967, During Father Maurice's pastorate, the and Dennis Lysne became businessmanager. school enrollment increased to the point During the school year of 1975-1976, where St Mary's could no longer accom­ President Berg, being on sabbatical leave, modate both the grade and the high school. Clarence Laberhas been acting president. Arund-raisingdrivewas undertaken and in WOrk was beaun on the half The spring registration, 1976, totals 831 tlf' ,.', " students, of which 61 9 are full-time stu­ m ill ion dollar St. Joseph's parish school. dents, and 112 are part-time. The faculty I he building, which includesa gymnasium- now numbers 42 full-time instructors. auditorium, has classroom space for 400 The most recent addition to the public children. The older St. Mary's is used just school system is the Lake Area Vo-Tech for high school students. Since its first class Center, a secondary level vocational edu­ ofe.ghtin 1913, St. Mary's has graduated cation school completed in January, 1976, over 1,000 students. with dedication ceremonies held April 6, An institution that has brought Devils 1976. Located just south of the Lake Region Lake statewide and nationwide attention is Junior College, the school was built at the North Dakota School for the Deaf. Its an approximate cost of $1,015,000. Its long historybeginsinterritorial days, when eighteen classrooms include a greenhouse the only school for the deaf in the Dakota just off the foyer, which not only serves in lerntory was in Sioux Falls, When North the horticultural and agricultural courses, Dakota was given statehood, A. R. Spear but adds aesthetically to the premises. trom Minneapolis promoted legislation for The building is owned by the Devils establishing a state school for the deaf in Lake School District, but will serve par­ Li uK' His biM was Qcted upon fav­ ticipating schools of the area, which pay orably by the legislature, but was vetoed proportionately in the cost of operating by the governor. In March, 1890, however, the school. Schools now involved are the bill did become law, and a mainten­ Crary, Churchs Ferry, Warwick, St. ance appropriation of $5,000.00 for the Mary's, North Dakota School for the Deaf, tirst year was granted. as well as Devils Lake Central. Over 400 Mr. Spearwasappointedthe first super­ studentsenrolled in the vocational program intendent -and only teacher -and for three spend two hours of their school day in the years with his wife's assistance, held school ma large frame building downtown.

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-18 On the first day of school, September 10, Minot, N. D. Drexel has attended the 1890, Mabel Newton was the only child North Dakota School for the Deaf for eight enrolled. Before the end of the year, how­ years. ever, there were 23 students. Religious instruction for both Roman The legislature appropriated $10,000 in Catholic and Protestant children is avail- January 1891, for the construction of a ableat NDSD through cooperation with the permanent building, and amended the edu­ local priests and pastors, with Rev. Roger cation laws to make it compulsory for deaf Leonhardt as campus chaplain. Children children to attend school. A ten to fifty enrolled live on campus, with a house dollar penalty was assessed if a deaf child mother providing the "home touch" and a did not attend the school for the deaf in toy library to provide needed play equip­ Devils Lake. By the fall of 1893, the Main ment,, Building and one wing were completed and The present curriculum of the fully ac­ the fifty students then enrolled were moved credited elementary and high school de­ from downtown to their new quarters. An partments provides courses for two years of additonal appropriation provided for the pre-school instruction and twelve grades. completion of the rest of the building. Keeping pace with the times, the voca­ Harland Lewis, former principal of the tional aspect of the curriculum is no longer school, wrote in the June 28, 1 957 Devils the main emphasis, though vocational Lake Journal, "There were no electric courses include Home Economics, Business lights, no central heating, and no storm Office Management, Wood-working, and windows'Mnthis first building. Subsequent Graphic Arts. For further vocational train­ buildings have included a $100,000 boys' ing, the students may take courses at the dormitory built in 1920, and an Industrial Lake Region Vo-Tech School. The current Building constructed during the 1930's. enrollment of the NDSD is 110 students, Further construction was curtailed by World with a faculty of 22, headed by Superin­ War II, though the campus now has, be­ tendent Allan Hayek. Other superinten­ sides those mentioned, a hospital, power dents of the school included the founder, plant, garage, gymnasium, classroom A. R. Spear, D. F. Bangs, J. W. Driggs, building, laundry, a large barn, an apart­ Arthur Buchanan, and Carl F. Smith. ment house, and a new Administration During his long tenure as superinten­ Buildingand Girls' Dormitory built in 1964. dent, from 1945 to 1968, when Mr. Hayek Extra-curricular activities include became acting superintendent, Carl Smith sports, religious activities, a literary club, saw many improvements and much expan­ a photography club, a student council, sion in the school. One of his personal and boys' and girls' athletic associations. hobbieswas collecting antiques, which he One athlete who has won recent acclaim housed in the vacated Old Main Building isDrexel Lawson, who was chosen to com­ on the campus. After his death, and when pete in the first Pan-American Games for the picturesque Old Main was razed, his the Deaf, held in Maracaibo, Venezuela, remarkablecollection was sold to the State in 1975. One of fifteen selected for the Historical Society. Fortunately, a portion U. S. A. team, he won a gold medal in of this collection still remains in Devils the 100-meter race. Unfortunately, a Lake, on loan to the Lake Region Heritage pulled hamstring prevented further compet­ Center, which is housed in the former ition for Drexel at the games; he was, sheriff's home, built in 1909. This build­ however, recognized as the North Dakota ing was also slated to be razed, until in­ Athlete of the Year in 1975, and was fea­ terested and concerned individuals peti­ tured in Sports Illustrated in their "Facing tioned for the preservation of the old land­ the Crowd" section. For these honors he mark, and by consent of the Ramsey County was awarded a silver cup. A senior from

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North Dakota State Library - 19 Bitmarck, N. D. 58505 Commissionersand with assistance from the Vo-Tech school, an excellent parochial North Dakota American Revolution Bi- school with kindergarten through secondary Centennial Commission, the Lake Region level, and the fine public elementary and Heritage Center was incorporated, and an secondary public schools, Devils Lake of­ excellent museum established. fers educational opportunities second to no With the NDSD, the LRJC, the new town of its size in the state. Carnegie Library It was the dedication and persistent ef­ furnish a reading room. Later this furniture fort of two women's organizations in the was to be donated to the new Carneqie cityof Devils Lake which led to the estab­ Library. lishment of the Devils Lake Carnegie Public Two unsuccessful efforts had been made Library, located on the corner of 4th Street to get a grant from the Andrew Carnegie and 2nd Avenue. The two whose members Foundation to build a public library. In later formed the nucleus of the present-day order to receive a grant, the city had to Twentieth Century Club, and the Shakes- agree to furnish one tenth of the amount of peareClub, which is still in existance to­ the building grant to maintain the library day, are the Library Club. each year. After the North Dakota Legis- Around 1897 a group of women formed ature passed permissive legislation to al­ the Library Club, which maintained a low cities to levy up to four mills for li­ library or reading room, which for several brary services, the executive committee years was located in the Evans Studio over ot the Shakespeare Club approached the the Brainerd Hardware Store in the Mann Library Club to appoint a committee to Block on fourth street. Women members of cooperate with them in seeking a Carnegie the Library Club and their families staffed grant and a city mill levy. the reading room on a volunteer basis. TheCityCouncil in March 1908 agreed They had a collection of about 400 books, Ut SSUe n the ballot in the which they loaned out to c itizens who paid °on£ i - ° April one dollar for a membership card . Officers 908 election. The library committee and of the club at the time the reading room their supporters carried on an active cam­ wasstarted were Mrs. C. W. Kelly, pres- paign to arouse public sentiment to the ident;Mrs. A. M. Powell, vice president; crying need for some respectable place Mrs. Laura Hanson, secretary, and Mrs. where our young men and boys might spend Sallie Prosser, treasurer. theirevenings profitablyand pleasantly, " To start their book collection, the Li­ wrote Mrs. Frank Stoltze, a member of the brary Club members wrote to National Shakespeare Club and a member of the Federated Women's Clubs all over the first library board. "Our local papers were much interested and gave us all The space United States asking for the donation of a we needed. We asked prominent citizens book. The first one came from the Sorosis to write articles for the paper and for three Club in New York. Their first project was weeks kept this daily before the people, a tea and program for which they charged besides constant agitation amounting to an a book as the price of admission. They col­ almost personal canvass of all voters The lected 65 books that evening. result was a vote of 342 for the library and In 1893 this same group of women had J9 against it, " said Mrs. Stoltze. been asked to raise $500 for furnishing a According to state law, a library board reading room in the state building at the was named by the public school board. At Chicago World's Fair. The women agreed its first meeting April 28, 1908, Professor to do so with the provision that the furn­ Bangs was elected president; Miss Brennan, iture be shipped back to Devils Lake to secretary and Mrs. Rhuberg, librarian.

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20 The board approached the Carnegie O'Brien, 1917-42; Mrs. Ruck, Minnie Foundation and was told they would re­ Bratvold Gabrielson and Mrs. R. Burchill ceive a grant of $12,500 if the City Coun­ Sassa, temporary librarians, 1942-43; Inez cil by resolution would agree to maintain Serumgard, 1943-45; Eva Barrett, 1945-59; a free public library at a cost of not less Beatrice Larson, 1959-66; Arlyce Luidahl, than $1,250 per year. 1966-67; Merle Mclntyre, 1967-73; Mar­ The City Council agreed to levy two garet Woll, 1973-74, and Mary Braaten, mills for the operation of the library and 1974 to the present. another two mills to pay for the lots, with The first actual library budget presented this levy and the grant from the Carnegie to the city council recorded in the board's Foundation, the library building was com­ minutes was in June 1919, when the board pleted in the fall of 1909. asked for $3,000 to run the library for the The Library Board and citizen supporters next fiscal year. At that time, $940 was had numerous money-making projects to budgeted for books. The library in 1976 help furnish the new library. City and had an income of approximately $24,000 county officials played a benefit baseball from the city. Its book budget for 1 975- game. The 19th Century Club, made up of 1976 is around $4,000. members from the LibraryClub, turned over to the new project some 500 books, pic- The Carnegie Public Library has a col­ turesand their furniture. They also had an lection of approximately 16,000 books. Easter Ball which netted $200. The 19th It maintains record players in both the Century Club published and sold 500 cook children'sand adult libraries and has more books and raffled off a patchwork quilt. then 200 recordings to c heck out to patrons. Through the efforts of Senator Hansborough, It also maintains a photo copy machine the library received 120 volumes of the which patrons use to copy magazine articles History of the Civil War from the United and pages of books. There are approxi­ States Government. James J. Hill, presi­ mately 4,000 library card holders. dent of the Great Northern Railway, don­ Cards from Devils Lake Carnegie Public ated $100 for the purchase of books. There Library are in the union card catalogue were benefit concerts and other activities. of the North Dakota State Library. The Mrs. Rhuberg served as librarian until Devils Lake Public Library patrons have August 1909, when Miss Winnie Bucklin access to books from the state library and of Brodhead, Wisconsin, was hired at a from other libraries throughout the state salary of sixty dollars a month. Librarians through the union catalogue. They also who followed her were Anna Sprung, 1910- have access to books in Minnesota libraries 15; Dorothy Dodge, 1915-17; Marie E. through a service called Minitex. Churches Among the pioneers, perhaps an even 4th Avenue, on the first Sunday in May, greater concern than that for education 1883 - about two months before the rail­ was the concern for establishing churches. road reached Devils Lake. Mr. Smith call­ Many denominations were represented a- ed a meeting of all Protestants in town to mong these early settlers from many and in town to organize a Presbyterian church. varied backgrounds. A committee appointed at this meeting met The Reverend Henry B. Smith, Jr., a in September, and articles of incorporation Presbyterian pastor, conducted the first were issued October 25, 1883. Early ser- religious service in Devils Lake in the vicescontinued to be held downtown until building occupied by the Townsite Office the group completed a church building on at the comer of what is now 4th Street and the cornerof 5th Avenue and 7th Street, on

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-21 land donated by the Townsite Company. the church. In 1 955 plans began, and after The bell of this church was a gift from a three-year fund raising campaign, the James J. Hill, the railroad magnate. The building became a reality. Thirty-five first service in the new church was held in pastors have served the First Methodist February of 1884. This edifice was moved Church since its founding in 1883. to the site of the present Presbyterian Anotherchurch which held its first ser­ church in 1892. In 1909 the manse was vices in Devils Lake in 1883 was the Epis­ constructed next to the church, and in copal Church, forerunners of which had 1915 the present church was built. arrived in Fort Totten in 1871 . After three years of intermittent visitations following Beginning with thirteen members, the that first service in 1883, regular work peak membership of 340 was reached in began in town in 1886, when the corner­ 1927. Presently there are 238 members. stone of the present building was laid Westminster Church also boasts the first the fourth of July. Constructed of native Sunday School in town, and a women's stone, this church is the only original ed­ group that has been active since the church ifice of that period still serving its con­ was first organized in 1883. Youth and gregation in Devils Lake. The church was choir work have been emphasized as well named "The Church of the Advent" in throughout Westminster's history. During recognition of the fact that much of the its 93 years, the church has been served by funding for the construction of the church ten supply ministers and eight pastors. was gathered during the season of Advent Also organized in 1883 was the First by Episcopal churches in the Philadelphia Methodist Episcopal Church of Devils Lake area. Its marble baptismal font was a gift with John Walton the first pastor, who also in 1889 from Christ's Church in St. Louis. served Methodist churches in Larimore and Lakota. The deed to the lot where the pres­ That same year the first resident pastor ent church stands was issued to the six arrived, and a year later a rectory was church trustees March 10, 1885. The wood­ built for him in the rear of the church. The en frame structure which was the first building was consecrated September 25, church home was built in 1886. This build­ 1895. To replace the rectory, which was ing was torn down in May, 1915, when latermovedacross the street, a large hall, the present brick church was erected. Dur­ the Guild Hall, was built in 1912, to ac­ ing the building period, the congregation commodate the church school. The mission used the Guild Hal I of the Episcopal Church became a parish October 16, 1901, with for worship services and Sunday School. Owen F. Jones as rector. Twenty-two In 1945 extensive basement improvements clergymen have served the parish since were made which provided a large down­ H.J. Sheridan, the first pastor, began stairs auditorium and spec ial rooms for choir the work in 1886. and children's work. A distinct part of the Among the various ethnic groups that mission of the church is its ministry of settled the Devils Lake area was a relative­ music, for many years under the direction ly large group of Norwegian Lutherans, of Mrs. Walt Zwemke. who began to arrive as early as 1881 . In the fa 11 of 1883, Missionary O. H. Aaberg The Women's Society of Christian Ser­ came to Devils Lake from the Red River vice carries on an educational service and Valley, and found that one thing these mission program, paralleling the Methodist families yearned for was a church of their Men's Organization, which sponsors Youth own, in their own language. Serving them Camp Programs among its many civic and as a missionary on his periodic trips west, religiousenterprises. As the Sunday School sometimes as far as the Mouse River where grew, it became apparent that an Educa­ Minot was later built, Pastor Aaberg tional Building would have to be added to preached six Norwegian sermons here dur-

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22 ing the winter of 1884, before he moved site for the church was purchased. Ground to Devils Lake in the summer of 1885. On was broken the following spring, and the Monday, July 29, 1885, he formally or­ new church was dedicated October 19, ganized the St. Olaf Lutheran Congrega­ 1930. tion. Before long, nine new Lutheran By 1952, the Sunday School had grown congregations were established by Pastor to 497 pupils, making it a matter of first Aaberg in Ramsey County. priority toconstructaneducation building. In 1885, Pastor Aaberg bought two acres Ground was broken for the new structure of land in Creel Township near the School April 19, 1953, the cornerstone laid the for the Deaf. Here he built Aaberg Acad­ following October, and the building ded­ emy, one large frame building that served icated June 13, 1954. When the congreg­ not only as the school, but also as a ation celebrated its 75th anniversary, there boarding house, for most of the students were over 700 children enrolled in the were farmers' sons and daughters. Oper­ Sunday School, and the congregation num­ ating only during January, February, and bered almost 2,000 baptized members. March, his curriculum included Cathecism In 1899, the parish consisted of five and Bible Study as well as academic sub­ congregations. Intime four of these joined jects. At one time over 125 students at­ St. Olaf, and another, Norway Congreg­ tended this academy, from as distant as ation joined St. Olaf in May of 1968. Towner a ndCooperstown. Someofthe early The Norway Church has now been moved teachers included Thomas Lonnevik, to the west shore of Creel Bay to be used Clarence Sager, Oscar Aanestad, Clara as a retreat center. Conversion construc­ Lomen and Clara Lue. The frame school- tion is currently in progress on this project. house was eventually broken up into sec­ Not unmindful of the needs of the oldergen- tions, sold, and made into homes in the city. eration, St. Olaf spearheaded the building Pastor Aaberg served St. Olaf until of the Lake Region Lutheran Home, which New Year's Day, 1888. During this period, developed into a corporation of the Luth- St. Olaf had a congregation belonging to erancongregationof thearea, and resulted the Norwegian-Danish Conference amalg­ in the construction of a spacious and well- amated and drew up a new constitution in equipped home on east 14th Avenue, ac­ 1887. commodating the aged of all faiths in this On November 23, 1887, with pledges Lake Region. Ordination services for Gor­ totaling $443.00, the congregation voted don D . Barks, the first son of the parish to to build its first church, which was com­ enterthe ministry, were held June 6, 1 965. pleted in 1888, on land donated by the Over the years, 14 resident pastors, Townsite Company. A Sunday School was one intern and two parish workers have organized in 1889, and the Ladies Aid in served St. Olaf. 1887. In keeping with Lutheran tradition, Concurrently with the development of much emphasis has been placed on educa­ the several Protestant churches among the tion and music at St. Olaf, as is evidenced early pioneers was the work among the by the growth of both the Sunday School many Roman Catholic settlers. Rev. Thomas and the Vacation Bible School programs, M. Gahillof Larimore came here at inter- and the excellent choirs for all ages that valsduring the winter of 1883, conducting have served over the years. services in a rented room on fourth street. During the depth of the depression in In May, 1884, Rev. M. McGinnis, the the 1920's, the Ladies Aid launched a first resident priest arrived, serving until fund raising drive for building purposes. fall. Twelve lots were donated to the It was January 20, 1927, before an official Catholic community that fall, and in Oc- committee was appointed to begin the toberand November, a frame building was project, and April 21, 1929, before a new erectedonFirst Streetasa placeof worship. BURKE FUNERAL CHAPEL

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23 A permanent resident priest was not a- while were held in homes, the old St. vailable until July 1888, when Rev. Vin­ Olaf Church, and in the basement of the cent Wehrle arrived. A very energetic city library. A parsonage was purchased person, he organized and built churches and moved onto the property, and the for missions in six communities, including Ladies Aid organized. St. Leo's inMinot. In 1893, he founded In May 191 3, St. Peter's affiliated with St. Gall's monastery, 3 miles south of the Missouri Synod, and in April 1914, a Devils Lake on the banks of the lake. The little church built on the cornerof 7th monastery also served as a school where Street and 7th Avenue was dedicated. A during the winter months boys and young Sunday School and choir were started in men from the country enrolled for school­ 1915, English services now replacing the ing. For the Sisters of Mercy, Abbott Vin­ German. In the fall of 1921 the enlarged cent purchased the old public school build­ and remodeled church was rededicated. ing on first street in 1895, which became During the 1 930's the Walther League, the St. Vincent de Paul's Hospital. He also Ruth Guild, and a Sunday School Teachers' inspired the building of an addition to the Training Course were organized, and later, church before he left for new duties at the Lutheran Laymen's League. Richardton, where St. Gall's later became Assumption Abbey. The final service in the frame church In 1906, plans were made for a new was held on Easter Sunday, March 25, more spacious church building. Six lots 1951, after a decision had been arrived at were purchased on the corner of 4th street in August 1950, to build a new church. and Hill avenue, for $6,000.00. Ground Ground breaking ceremonies for the new breaking began August 25, 1906, and the church were held April 8, 1951, and the new church was ready for dedication on first services were held in the basement April 29, 1908, at a gala celebration. September 9, 1 951 . The completed brick The aggregate cost of the church and fur­ church was dedicated October 5, 1952. nishings was $50,000.00. At this same Ordination services for Robin O. Fink time, plans were drawn up for a new par­ were held on the first Sunday in July 1961 . ochial residence. In 1909, St. Mary's Amemorial of carillon bells was placed in Academy was established. (See Schools) the church tower in memory of Stuart Ges- St. Joseph's parish has been served by 21 sner. Pastor Roger Leonhardt who has twice pastors and 30 assistant pastors since 1883 served as supply pastor at St. Peter's, con­ to the present writing. ducts the Protestant chaplaincyat the North German settlers in the village of Grand Dakota School for the Deaf, a service of Harbor gathered on July 9, 1893, fo or­ the Missouri Synod Mission to the Deaf. ganize St. Peter's Lutheran Church, with Recently a new parsonage has been elevenchartermembers signing the German built at 1508 Lincoln Avenue, and the lot constitution. Meetings were held ir­ adjoining the churchyard where the old regularly during those first difficult years, parsonage sat, has been converted to a until on June 7, 1896, the public school parking lot for the church. building in Grand Harbor was purchased The presentpastorat St. Peter's is David for a place of regular worship, and Pastor Heine rt. Hilpert was called to preach every fourth One more church of Devils Lake has its Sunday. This arrangement continued suc­ roofs in the ni leteenth century. The First cessfully for four years, then the dwindling Church of Christ Scientist, which began congregation in 1911 reorganized and re­ here in 1894, erected its first church in located in Devils Lake. During this reor- 1909. A second structure, dedicated July ganizational period, property for locating 27, 1942, was built on a site at the corner a church was purchased, and servicesmean- of 6th Street and 4th Avenue, donated by Devils Lake Greenhouse

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- 24 - Mr. and Mrs. Edgar La Rue, the former Hotels during the pastorate of Rev. W. N. charter member of the church. Gray. While Rev. K. W. Gaskin was In September 1974 the church closed, pastor, land was purchased south ofthe and the building was soldto John C. Haug- city on Highway 20, where in 1963 the land. present church was constructed. The Bap­ Since the turn of the century, other tist Mission was organized as a church in denominations have established churches the fall of 1964. During the winter of 1970, in Devils Lake. The Evangelical Free a parsonage was built on the grounds. Church first came to Devils Lake to do mis­ The present pastor, who followed Rev. sionary work in 1910, with Rev, Myrdal Lee Borders, is Rev. Jerry Sulloway, who the first missionary. October 24, 1913, arrived in March 1975. Bethel Evangelical Free Church was organ­ ized with sixteen charter members, and a The most recently organized church in building was begun where the present church Devils Lake is Our Savior's Lutheran es­ stands. The church remained a basement tablished in 1967. The original planning structure until 1 923 when the superstruc­ for the new congregation began as early ture wasbuilt. "While the church nasnever as 1958. The pastors and boards of the St. been large, a number of young people Olaf Lutheran, from which the bulk of the have heeded the Lord's call and are serv­ membership was drawn, gave support and ing in various capacities". Sixteen pastors approval of the establishment of a second have served the congregation from 1913 to American Lutheran Church in Devils Lake. the present, with Paul Needham the present Land was purchased from the Lake Region pastor. Lutheran Home for the church, and a lot Beginning with revival meetings held procured on 14th Avenue East for a parson­ in a tent, the Assembly of God built its age. The construction of these buildings, first frame church at 902 Third Street in financedbythe Division of American Mis­ 1932. The newly organized church of which sions of ALC was begun in October 1966. Rev. A. M. Selness was the first pastor, In January 1967, Rev. Robert Weber had twenty charter members. In late years was called to organize the congregation. the building was lifted and a basement con­ The first worship services were held May structed, accommodating classrooms, an 7, 1967, with over 200 in attendance. At auditorium, kitchen, and furnace room. the organizational meeting on September The Tokio Assembly which was amalga­ 28, 1967, six officers and nine council mated with the Devils Lake Assembly, be­ members were elected. The dedication came an independent congregation in service was held at 3:00 p.m. on October 1937. A new parsonage was built in 1963. 1, 1967. Fifty-six family units, a total of Since 1965, the church has participated 209 members were received into charter in the Summer Camp at Lakewood operated membership. Anadditionto the church was by the District Council of Assemblies of almost immediately necessary, for the God. The present pastor is Rev.Darryl young congregation has already grown to Lueck. 544 members from 187 family units. The first meeting of the First Baptist The church activities include an active Church was held in the basement of the ALCW, choirs, and Sunday School, and Masonic Temple, January 18, 1957. Spon­ currently underway is the teachers' train­ sored by Faith Baptist Church in Grand ing program for the Bethel Series Adult Forks, the congregation held meetings Bible Study. Rev. Carell J. Foss is the later in the Great Northern and Colonial pastor.

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Don Schiele, Box 411 Owner fOMPUSERV Devils Lake, N. Dak. Medical Facilities Itmaycomeasa surprise to the modern- Henry Hale, who served as a Medical day psychologists to realize that the "whole Steward while Col. Davis and Dr. Ruger person" concept is not new. We have al­ were at the fort, tells of his personal ex­ ready learned that our pioneer forefathers periences in his memoirs, "Pioneers Asso­ had great concern for the economic, edu­ ciation. "He writes: "The Hospital Steward cation, and spiritual welfare of their com­ had to prepare all the tinctures and pills; munities; neither did they neglect their he was pharmacist, dentist, clerk, instruc- physical well-being. This concern was torincooking and nursing, and often phy­ manifest in two directions: in early de­ sician and surgeon in the absence of the velopment of medical facilities on the one medical officers. The dental equipment hand, and inactive interest in recreational consisted of a first class set of forceps only, outlets on the other. tooth drawing was the steward's business.. As has been ironically true throughout I sent for a dental engine and outfit and medical history, that wars and military saved many a tooth by filling with amal­ expeditions have often contributed greatly gam. This was probably the first dental tomedical science and practice, so it was service the army every had. " that the army brought the first doctors into Only twodoctors were listed in an early the Dakota Territory, even before the ter­ issue of Inter-Ocean, which named those ritory was opened for settlers. Among the who had settled in Devils Lake between early medical officers at Fort Totten was April and June of 1883. The first was Dr. Dr. DeWolt who was ordered from Fort Tot­ J. O. Carson, who came to Devils Lake ten to join the ill-fated Custer expedition from Bowling Green, Ky., having gradu­ in 1876, and was killed at the Little Big ated from the University of Louisville. Horn. Dr. James B. Ferguson arrived at With James F. O'Brien, attorney and real the fort in September 1879, a hospital estate broker, he shared an office over steward, who graduated in medicine and Oleson's Store on 4th Street. The second became a "contract doctor". was Dr. W. H. Lane, who came here in For reasons best known to Congress, the June 1883. How long these two doctors Medical Department of the Army was remained in the city is not known. Dr. closed to appointment of Commissioned of­ Rugerapparentlycame to Devils Lake after ficers so that a large number of "contract a very brief stay in Grand Harbor, for he doctors"had to be employed with the army. is named among the city commissioners in Dr. Henry H . Ruger was one of these . Dr. 1884, and was reported to be the only Ruger, who had been with the Medical physician in the area when Dr. Horsman Department of the Army during the Civil arrived. Dr. W. D . Jones was among the War, had served at Fort Abercrombie prior earliest surgeons in Devils Lake, having to coming to Fort Totten in 1877, and had arrived before 1900. Dr. G. F. Drew, who been attached to the Stanley Black Hills came to Crary as a general practitioner in Expedition in 1875. He was on duty at Fort 1901, moved to Devils Lake in 1 912, set Totten as a civilian until he left the ser­ up a practice specializing in treatment of vice and set up his own practice in Grand eyes, ears, nose and throat. Dr. Clinton Harbor in 1883. He afterwards moved to Smith came here as an associate of Dr. Devils Lake where he practiced until his Horsman in 1903. death in 1906. Colonel William B. Davis, Dr. W. F. Sihler first practiced in believed to be the first commissioned sur­ Grand Harbor from 1899 until he moved to geon ever to serve Fort Totten, was on duty Devils Lake in 1901. He was appointed at the fort from 1877 to 1881 and from medical superintendent of the newly opened 1882 to 1886. Mercy Hospital in 1903, with attending

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SHARKS Downtown Devils Lake

26 physicians Drs. Jones, Ruger, Horsman, laterbecame partners. Only Dr. Mahoney andMoehler. Dr. Sihler in 1910 establish­ is still practicing in Devils Lake. ed the General Hospital, first located in Devils Lake medical history spans the a large frame building in the 300 block years from the time of home calls, some­ on 6th Street, the building later occupied times made on skis, night calls, and home by the Good Samaritan Home. In 1914 he "OB's" to this day of specializations and was instrumental in the building of the new intensive care. One doctor interviewed three-story brick General Hospital on the recalls the introduction of insulin, liver corner of 3rd Street and 7th Avenue. This treatment for pernicious anemia, vaccina- institution was operative as a hospital un­ tionsand immunizations for smallpox, tet­ til 1953, and has since housed the Good anus, diphtheria, typhoid, and other com­ Samaritan Home. Two modern wings have municable diseases. He recalls the been added to this building by the Good discovery of the "miracle drugs" —the Samaritan Society, to accomodate resi­ sulphas, penicillin, themiacins, and other dents. Plans are now formulating to raze anti-biotics that have all but eliminated the old hospital building and build a new the terror of tuberculosis and pneumonia addition to the Home. and most infections. He remembers one Christmas Eve before penicillin when he Other doctors and surgeons associated despairingly attended ten pneumonia pa­ with Dr. Sihler included Dr. D . J. Mc­ tients, some of whom reached and survived intosh, who opened an office in Webster in the mysterious "crisis", but many of whom 1905and moved into Devils Lake in 1906, died. He remembers that typhoid often where he practiced until his death; Dr. broke out during threshing season when John Graham, who practiced here from carriers would bring it into the area. If 1928 until his death in 1 949; and Dr. Glenn detected, these carriers were isolated from Toomey, the oldest practicing surgeon in society and treated until negative tests Devils Lake today, who came to Devi Is Lake indicated they were no longer risks as as an intern in 1932, and remained as an carriers—forsome this isolation lasted the associate of Dr. Sihler. He joined the Lake of their lives. One mysterious statewide Reg ion Clinic staff in 1952. Dr. Neil Mc- epidemic in 1936, thought to have been Clean set up a private general practice, brought in by a shipment of contaminated then later became an ENT specialist. fruit, was discovered to be para-typhoid. When this was verified by the University Dr. John Fawcett, one of several sons of Chicagothe epidemic was brought under of Dr. W. C . Fawcett of Starkweather be­ control, though not until after there had gan a private practice in Devils Lake in been several deaths in the state. 1931 . In 1943 he and his father, who re­ mained in Starkweather, and his brother The good doctor rejoices in one dram­ Newton formed a partnership, which with atic advancement — the discovery of the another brother, Donald and Dr. John vaccine for polio, though he regrets that Graham on January 1, 1947, became the little progress has been made in the control Lake Region Clinic. Dr. Robert, the of influenza. He is optimistic however, youngest of the brothers, joined the clinic about the new vaccine being made ready in 1 948, after completing his military ser­ for distribution next fall against the so- vice. Of the four brothers only Dr. Robert called swine influenza. He remembers the an internist, still practices in Devils Lake. fearful flu epidemic in 1918, when in this At the present time, eleven doctors are area whole families were found dead in associated with the Lake Region C linic . farmhouses, and when 20 million died in On August 15, 1946, Dr. J. H. Ma- the world-wide epidemic . Even he marvels honey set up a private practice, to which at the tremendous strides medicine has Drs. I. L. Lazareck and Tom Longmire made from primitive schoolroom "tonsil DAVIS TAVERN

LAKE REGION'S FIRST BEER GARDEN

209 Fifth St. Devils Lake, N. D,

27 - clinics", when 30 to 40tonsilectomies were sewage regulations compliance, and food performed ina single day, to sophisticated and food handlers inspection for contamin­ heart transplants and brain surgery, all in ation or poisoning. The educational pro­ a single lifetime, and muses that ironical­ grams inmanyareas are a part of the unit's ly much of this progress has come out of services, for example, alerting the public the treatment of the wounded in the wars. to the early signs of cancer, or in teaching Our present greater life expectancy he procedures inCivil Defence, safety, first attributes to the great progress that has aid, and emergency home treatments for been made in medicine and surgery, in­ accidents, drowning, choking, etc. cluding better drugs and better monitoring Dental medicine has been practiced in of post-surgery, to general progress in Devils Lake by a host of dentists, among health education, and to the better sanitary the first of whom was Dr. Wm . K. Moeller, conditions in homes and hospitals, as well brotherofDr. HenryMoeller, M.D. Other as in entire communities. early dentists included Dr. W. C. Follett Public Health and Public Nursing pro­ andDr. Romig. The Hocking Dental Clinic grams have carried much of the burden of for many years thrived under the practices health education. Many superstitions and of Drs. W. E. (Will), H. G. (Harry) and much reluctance to trust the judgment of S. B. (Burdette) Hocking. Dr„ Tom Mc- doctors and nurses, and to submit to hos­ Clean, brotherofthe late Neil McClean, pitalizations have had to be overcome with M.D., is the oldest practicing dentist in dogged determination to teach a better Devils Lake, an active octogenarian. Drs. way to health. Formany years, PTA mothers B. M. Hurd and Herman Rutten have also volunteered at free immunization clinics engaged in longstanding practice in Devils to assist the doctors who donated their ser­ Lake, the latter still active in his profes­ vices to administer shots for diphtheria, sion on a limited schedule. whooping cough, and tetanus, and to vac­ The most imposing medical entity in cinate against smallpox. These diseases Devils Lake is the spacious and beautiful and numerous others once mortally dreaded Mercy Hospital, dating from the very are now largely under control. Clinics for pioneer days of our community. In 1895 immunizations today inDevils Lake are the the Sisters ofMercy moved down from Bel- the responsibility of the Lake Region Dis­ court toestablisha hospital in Devils Lake. trict Health Unit, organized first in Ram- The abandoned public school building on seyand BensonCounties in 1950. Cavalier, 1st Street was purchased, and converted _Eddy, Pierce, and Towner Counties have into a hospital with two wards and eleven since joined the Lake Region District private rooms. The first patient of St. Vin­ Health Unit. Tuberculosis control was one cent's Hospital, as it was then called, was of the early programs of the health unit, received November 3, 1895. The building and though they continue to offer immuni­ quickly became inadequate for the needs zations, the smallpox vaccinations are of the growing community, and in 1902 rarely given now, as this disease has been the cornerstone of the First Wing of the quite literally eradicated. Emphases in present Mercy Hospital was laid. The April publ ic health services today are on bedside 19, 1903, Inter-Ocean relates the story of care for convalescents and terminal cases, the dedication of the Mercy Hospital on preventive disease, control of venereal April 14 of that year. Excerpts from that disease, and continued control of tuber­ account follow: culosis. The Sanitation program, official­ "The new hospital is a brick structure ly launched in 1 944, emphasizes water and erected at a cost of approximately air pollution control, school health in­ $32,000, of imposing and beautiful prop­ spections, domiciliary homes inspections, ortions and style ... it is 50 by 100 feet, rat control, rabies control, water and of three full stories esc lusive of a splendid NELSON'S M & I ELECTRIC INC. 424 College Drive - Devils Lake, N Dak.

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-28 basement and capacious attic . It is built a beautiful chapel with altar and ornate on a gentle eminence on the 80 acres of furnishings and easy sittings. " land owned by the Sisters of Mercy. The On September 27, 1936, the cornerstone The structure is heated by steam and lighted was laid for an addition which increased by electricity, has a model system of ven­ the bed capacity to 75 beds and improved tilation, after the most approved methods, the facilities for the Nurses Training reaching to every room . In winter the cold School, which is no longer in existence. air ismoderately heated before distribution Plans for another addition began in 1956, throughout the edifice. A hygenic system which included an increase in the number of sewerage has also been provided, with of beds, plus the modernization of the an- lavatories and bathrooms on every floor. chillaryfacilities. The new wing was ded­ icated in October of 1958. "The laundry room has a cement floor In 1971 , the planning was initiated to and fine system of drainage. Two large replace the 1902 wing and renovate the cisterns of 700-barrel capacity furnish 1958 wing. The new hospital area includes rainwater and a large windmill pumps the space for 28 new hospital beds, bringing drinking water to reservoirs in the attic the present total facilities to 110 beds, plus' where it is distributed. The kitchen is departments of Physical Therapy, Emer­ equipped with a large range and pastry gency, Laboratory, Radiology, Surgery, oven and victuals are readily carried to Pharmacy, Intensive Care, Medical Rec­ the several floors by dumb-waiters. There ords, Doctors' Lounge, and Administrative is also a large elevator in the building. Area. The newly constructed basement The structure is finished in hard oak level includes central sterile services, throughout, beautifully polished, and the laundry, housekeeping, mechanical equip­ floors of maple. The walls are all of ada­ ment for heating and air-conditioning, mant plaster. print shop, locker rooms for personnel, and a large storage area. The new con­ "There are 50 sick rooms exclusive of struction and renovation of the 1958 wing those in the basement and they are all were completed and dedicated May 13, furnished with new furniture and many ap­ 1975, a source of real pride to the entire pliances and most modern conveniences community. The 1936 wing is no longer have been added regardless of expense, used for patient care, but houses the Dental to contribute to the comfort of the sick and Clinic, Medical Library, LPN classrooms, afflicted. The operating room has cement Nuclear Medicine and Pastoral Care. walls painted white and a tile floor. An The Mercy Hospital plusthe Lake Region invoice of over $700.00 of surgical Lutheran Nursing Home, the IOOF Home, instruments and sterilized appliances is on and the Good Samaritan Home provide ade­ the way and this department will soon be quate medical facilities for the entire thoroughly equipped. The hospital contains Lake Region. Recreation

It was not "all work and no play" in Fishing in the lake was even a commercial Devils Lake, even in its early years. Early enterprise at one time, and thrived as a references are made to the Devils Lake sport until the lake receded after the turn Baseball team, the Devils Lake Cornet of the century, to be revived in recent Band, the Barnum and Bailey Circus in years of higher water levels. The Devils 1895, the hunting of prairie grouse, Lake Country Club is perhaps one of the geese and ducks in this "hunters paradise". most beautiful and picturesque golf courses

Merle Clemenson ABE LL DRUG 414 Fourth Ave. Reg . Pharmacist «P» STORE Devils Lake, N. D.

29 in North Dakota. Few people recall its Country Club". Flynn and Sihler were the early history and the difficu I ties encounter­ first two to sign the agreement to purchase ed by the founders. a share of stock each of $1 00 a share. In 1 919 Edward F. Flynn, then an at- Soon nearly 100 men from Devils Lake and orney in Devils Lake and president of the nearby areas had signed the agreement. Board of City Commissioners was engaged A committee consisting of Attorney Rollo in the trial of a railway case which took F. Hunt, chairman, Fred J. Traynor, at­ him toa numberof cities in the state which torney; Rev. H. Garfield Walker; Ralph had golf courses and here he played a few Mayer and A. V. Haig was appointed and games of golf. Mr. Flynn discussed with instructed to draw up articles of incorpor­ Dr. W. F. Sihler the possibility of organ­ ation and by-laws. The articles were sent izing agolf club inDevils Lake. Dr. Sihler to the Secretary of State on May 25, 1920. wasenthusiastic, and these two men called The charter naming W. F. Sihler, Edward a meeting attended by many Devils Lake F. Flynn, Rollo F.Hunt "and others" as men who approved the idea of purchasing incorporators was issued on May 26, 1920. or otherwise acquiring land for a golf Dr. Sihler was elected president and course. Blanding Fisher secretary. A committee A subscription agreement dated January consisting of Mr. Flynn, Howard Maher, 29, 1920 was prepared by Mr. Flynn where­ Harry Kneeshaw, Anson B. Jackson, and by it was proposed to incorporate a club Dr.W.E. Hocking recommended purchase to be known as the "Devils Lake Town and of the land on the shores of Devils Lake,

An early-day photo of goose hunting in the Lake Region. Devils Lake has long boon known as one of the outstanding waterfowl hunting spots on the North American continent. Bill's OK Hardware vx Bill Sager, Owner Complete Sporting & Gift Departments

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30 now owned by the club, and the member­ a club house. The former club house of ship approved. the Devils Lake Yacht and Boat Club was The firm of Langford and Moreau, golf moved across the ice from a location near architects of Chicago, was hired to super­ the Lakewood Beach area and placed on vise the laying out of a nine hole course. the embankment near the first tee . It served Several fairways were laid out through the club well for over 20 years. When it heavy timber creating much work. When was destroyed by fire in the fall of 1942, the trees were cut down there remained the directors moved in the former Dan Re­ the roots and a rough terrain. Ordinary gan night clubfrom near Webster. Addi­ help failed to put the fairway in order. On tional improvements were made from time a sunny summer day Kiwanis and Rotary had to time, including a forty foot lounge on a luncheon of fried chicken and corn at a the north side. Under this addition locker point about where the club house now rooms were constructed for both men and stands. These clubs called in their friends' women. assistance and a contest was held to see which group would first finish the clean­ Again in August 1971 the Town and ing up of its portion of the grounds. His­ Country Club was destroyed by fire. New tory does not disclose who won, but soon, construction began that fall, and again with the assistance of Denver J. Rapp, the organization has a beautiful clubhouse then manager of the John Deere Company, includinga dining area, kitchen, lounge, who provided tools and machinery, the and patio on the main floor. The lower fairways were leveled and their seeding level contains lockers for both men and began. This turned out well and by the fall women, and a sauna. of 1921 a good growth of bluegrass and There are approximately 200 golfing clover appeared. membersat the presenttime with Bob Whit­ Attention was now turned to obtaining ney as president. Park; Many city recreational activities have presented excellent water shows for several been sponsored by the C ity Park Board over years. the years. Convening for the first time on Using FERA funds and WPA labor, the August 24, 1907, the first park board com­ former Devils Lake city dump was cleared, missioners were Richard Daeley, F. P. and Roosevelt Park, complete with play­ Mann, C. M. Fisher, Frank Prosser, and ground, swimming pool, ball park, and Howard Whipple, with A. E. Parshall as picnic facilitieswascompleted in 1936. In clerk. In 1920, the park board purchased 1950, on the instigation of the Junior the property now known as Lakewood Park Chamber of Commerce, with private funds from the Chautauqua Association for and a park board appropriation, baseball $20,000 and spent an additional $10,000 lighting towers were installed. Gilliland on improvements and park equipment. Field for high school football was a joint Though interest lagged in recreational ac­ project of the school board and the park tivities at Lakewood during the years when board. In the late 60's, the old swimming the lake suffered its recession, in recent pool was condemned, and a new pool was years the high waters have encouraged a built with a toddler's wading pool and a resurgence of interest in water activities. shallow beginners pool separate from the Fish have been replanted in the lake, at­ main pool. In recent years a summer recrea­ tracting crowds of campers and fishermen. tional director has coordinated a complete Swimming isgoodatthe improved Lakewood and varied program of summer sports and Beach, where the "Aquanauts", an active art and hobbies for all ages. I group of water skiing enthusiasts, have The Winter Sports Building at Roosevelt

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31 - Park was built in 1940 at an approximate and was the scene of five outstanding cost of $55,000. In the spring and fall, tournaments, including the Central Cham­ indoor track, and the 4-H stock show in pionships in 1 933, and the Olympic tryouts connection with the Annual Fall Fair are in 1936." World War II interrupted this held in this building. During the winter sporting program, and it was not revived months, augmented by the installation of until in the late 1950's. An item in Dec­ artificial ice facilities, an extensive hoc­ ember 7, 1961 . "Thirty Years Ago" column key program, public skating, and figure of the Devils Lake Journal reads: "500 at­ skating have flourished. The Devils Lake tended inauguration of ski jump with Peder Figure Skating Club, organized in 1945, is Folstad and Casper Oimen each making 3 one of the few Figure Skating Clubs in the jumps. " state, the only one that has presented an In 1 961 , major improvements were made annual ice show for the thirtieth consec­ in the Skyline Skiway, on the same site as utive year. While the club itself holds the earlier slide, including an enlarged amateur standing , several skaters from the chalet with five times the space of the old club have gone on to professional perfor­ one, with new ski runs, and new tobaggon mance with such renowned groups as John­ runs. The jump, condemned as unsafe after son and Shipstead's Ice Follies. years of deterioration from lack of use In recent years a rising interest in curl­ and vandalism, is no longer in use. Enthus­ ing has resulted in the construction of a iasm has continued since this period, with large curling rink where local and area considerable growth of interest in cross­ curlers train for bonspie Is here and through­ country skiing. The additional current out the country. zeal for snowmobiling has added much to Skiing has brought fame to our area the over-all winter sports interests, during the past. The Devils Lake Journal including ice fishing. A relatively new for June 28, 1957, carries a story which sight on the North Dakota horizon is the reads in part: "When it comes to national numerous tiny houses that shelter the more championships, Devils Lake can boast ardent of the ice fishers. of Peder Falstad, whocaptured national Two Bicentennial park projects still in titles in two divisions (in skiing), held the planning stages of development at this many hill records, and promoted ski slides writing are Ruger Park and a Bike Trail to in Devils Lake, Rapid City, S. D., Han- Lakewood. Rosa Ruger, daughterof pioneer naford, N. D. and Steamboat Springs, DoctorR.R. Ruger, has donated a tract of Colorado. His longest jump was 234 feet at landnorthofthecity for park development Steamboat Springs. He was a member of purposes. The first official function held the U. S. Olmpic team in 1928 and 1932, on this site was during the 1976Mardi competing at Garmish-Partenkirchen, Gras, when fireworks were set off there as Germany, and at Lake Tahoe. He captured the finale of the Mardi Gras. Miss Ruger the Western Ski Association Class A Cham­ was in attendance at this event. The Bike pionship in 1934. Trail, sponsored by the Bicentennial Com­ "Through his tremendous energy and mittee, will follow at least in part the zeal, the Lake Region Winter Sports Club roadbedofthe old Chautauqua trolley line was formed in 1932, building the slide in to Lakewood, thus combining historic rec­ ognition with a much needed safety proj­ the wooded area on the south shore of ect. Devils Lake. It was dedicated in 1932, Cultural Life Entertainment on the cultural level has discussed elsewhere in this publication, for always figured prominently in Devils Lake example. social life. The old Chautauqua series are The first movie theatre was the Bijou,

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32 located where the present Ford Motor Com­ citement in town than any other picture pany stands. Opening in the fall of 1907, during the time "The Grand" was in exis­ it was operated by Mrs. Maude Theade. tence. Playing for three days, it boasted And then there was the Grand Opera 5,000 scenes, 18,000 characters, 3,000 House! With its colorful and eventful his­ horses, plusa 25-piece live orchestra from tory, the Grand Opera House holds senti­ Minneapolis, and was attended by "the mental memories among Devils Lake citi­ largest crowd in the history of Devils Lake. " zens comparable to those of New Yorkers Plagued by financial problems during the for the Metropolitan. Its gala opening depression years, the theatre closed, and night, December 16, 1909, featured a New the building was sold on September 19, York stage show, "Honeymoon Trail", with 1946, to the American Legion Post for use a cast of 60 players, which was followed as their club house. The last legal trans­ by a grand ball attended by about 200 action was on March 11, 1971, when the couples. Traveling shows played "The building was sold to the Devils Lake park­ Grand" for many years, until the latter ing authority, and the building was daysofWorld War I, when motion pictures wrecked for parking facilities. replaced them. Vaudeville concerts, lec­ tures, big name dance bands, included such The zeal for cultural entertainment did attractions as John Philip Sousa's band, not die with the Grand Opera House, how­ Lawrence Welk, Wayne King, Ben Bjernie, ever. For over thirty years, Lake Region lecturer, William Jennings Bryan, the audiences have enjoyed the annual Com­ Norwegian explorer, Roald Amundson, as munity Concert Series, which have fea­ well as the famous local dramatic group, tured such artistsas Jerome Hines, William the O'Callaghans, directed by Ed Flynn, Warfield, Lanny Ross, Fred Waring, Brian former local attorney and mayor, who pre­ Sullivan, the Minnesota Symphony, to sented more than 30 plays between May 11, name only a few who have appeared in 1900, and February 13, 1923. The spacious approximately 120concertssince the series basement ba 11 room was used extensively began in 1943. Local talent and cultural for roller skating, even before the build­ pursuits have been encouraged through ing was completed. "The Grand" was a mov­ such community organizations as the Devils ie theatre throughout the era of the silent Lake Concert Band, the Devils Lake Music pictures, and well after sound was installed Club, the Fort Totten Little Theatre, the in 1928. The movie "The Birth of a Na­ Diplomats, the Art Club, and numerous tion" in 1 916 probably caused more, ex­ study, social and service clubs. Patriotic Organizations The American Legion and Auxiliary was and Girls' State, Veterans Hospitals, Re­ organized in Devils Lake in 1920. The Post habilitation, Americanism, Child Welfare was named for Tim Running who was killed habilitation, Americanism, Child Welfare, in France. The first Post Commander was Nurses' Training, purchasing hospital Mack Traynor. The first Department Pres­ equipment and community service. ident, also Unit President, was Mrs. The last veteran's group to be formed Eugene Fenelon. The Forty and Eight, La in Devils Lake is Veterans of World War I Sociate Des 40 Hommes et 8 Chevauz (or and Ladies'Auxiliary, organized in 1960. 40 men and 8 horses) was the name of the It is also a National Organization. There train that carried the troops in France. are fifteen barracks and eleven auxiliaries Each group has definite purposes — all in the state. connected with servicemen's lives, fam­ Other Veteran's organizations include ilies, and widows. They included Boys' the Veterans of Foreign Wars organized in

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33 1 936withsixteenChartermembers; and the August 22, 1933 with 30 charter members. Disabled American Veterans organized Fred Wilson is the present Commander.

Ninety-four men, drafted into the Armed Forces, are pictured here as they pre­ pared to leave Devils Lake for wartime duty in 1918. Camp Grafton

Camp Grafton, originally consisting of for other public purposes not inconsistent some 1,500acres of woods and timber land with such use. and ideal for military training, was set a- It is believed that the first North Da­ side by the United States Government and kota National Guard encampment was held designated as the Fort Totten Military Wood on the reservation in 1891 . The original Reservation in the late 1880's. The reser­ stone warehouse which is now Camp Head­ vation was surveyed by Lt. Heber M. quarters was constructed in 1893 at a cost Creel, Seventh Cavalry, United States of $5,750. Not many improvements were Army, then stationed at Fort Totten. Later made on the camp site until after World Lt. Creel became Adjutant General of War I when the camp was redesignated as North Dakota . Camp Gilbert C . Grafton in honor of LTC Some years later, after Fort Totten had Gilbert C. Grafton, who had rendered been abandoned by the War Department, many years of faithful service in the North the Fort Totten Military Wood Reservation Dakota National Guard and who died was transferred to the state of North Da­ while serving with the American Exped­ kota and became known as the Rock Island itionary Forces in France. Military Reservation. It was to be used as The first large improvement program was a park for the militia of said state, and initiated in 1923 when 15 combination

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34 kitchenand mess halls, a dispensary and a from discouraging them, these adversities QM warehouse were constructed, and a served rather to strengthen them and to modern water and sewage system was in­ spark their determination to establish a stalled. healthy and prosperous community. No Through the years many fine permanent phase of human development was over­ structures have been built including ware­ looked, until in the course of less than a houses, garages, a sales store, recreation century, Devils Lake has become the eco­ hall, Officers' and enlisted men's messes nomic, cultural, religious, medical and and clubs and a beautiful chapel. In 1 955 educational center for the entire Lake the Combined Field Maintenance Shop was Region, serving over 90,000 people. What constructed. A new water system started a challenge for the next century — the operation in 1964. The period between second century of our community, and the 1964 and 1968 brought the metal hutments third century of our nation! In 2076, will and has made tentage in Camp Grafton Devils Lake yet boast such leadership? It another part of history. is for the coming generations to determine our future. May they continue to prosper The city of Devils Lake indeed has had in the traditions of the pioneers of this a proud history. Hardships, adverse climate Midwest! and disease plagued the pioneers, but far

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Recent photo of Fourth Street, looking east, in downtown Devils Lake.

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Fourth Avenue looking south in the 1950's.

The former Masonic Hall at corner of Fourth Avenue and Fifth Street. The low­ er corner of this building was formerly a bank. The Masons purchased it for $3,000 in 1899. Note grocery store and candy store on the ground floor. Note Masonic emblem on front of building. Upper floor was used by Masonic bodies and O.E.S. until 1916 when the Masonic Temple was built. HOME OF ECONOMY

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36 CHAPTER 2 The Story of Enchanted Waters" Its History and Legends

"Enchanted Waters", wrote explorer JohnCharles Fremont in 1 839, "is a beau­ tiful sheet of water, the shores being broken into pleasing irregularity by , promontories and many islands. As in some other lakes on the plateau, the water was brakish, but there are fish in it, and it is doubtless freshened by the rains and melting snows of the spring. No outlet was found, but at the southern end there are low grounds by whichat the season of high water, the lake may discharge into the Shayan (sic). This would put it among the sources of the Red SWUM toWM River. The most extended view of its waters obtainable from any of the surrounding hills seemed to reach about forty miles in a northwesterly direction." Later in 1865 Lyman K. Raymond, a soldier under Gen­ eral Alfred Sully, was impressed by the size of the great Jake, describing it per­ haps exaggeratedly, as "sixty miles long and forty miles wide and very deep. " What a contrast the lake must have been to the miles of grassy prairie they had traversed to reach this lake, located between the present Ramsey and Benson Counties, roughly eighty miles from the Canadian borderand ninety from the Minnesota line! "Enchanted Waters "soon became known as Devils Lake. The Indian name Mini- MOltttiliVKM wakan, spelled variously, meant Spirit or BadWater. The early explorers interpreted that to mean bad spirit, probably influ­ enced by the Indian legends of drowned warriors and unpredictable waves up to four or five feet. Later data seems to in­ dicate that the Indians were referring to the water's brackishness which made it not potable, since elements of sulphite, car- Marker shows the elevation levels of conate of soda, lime, magnesium and iron, Devils Lake over the years. The cur­ much like the ocean were in the water. In rent lake level is in excess of 1425 the water. In the early days this was bot­ feet above sea level, highest point tled as medicinal potions. in this century. ED'S ON & OFF SALE

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-37 In these early days the lake had many Six-Mile Bay and the Narrows on Highways fish, mostly pickerel. These could be 57 and 20. caught by pitchfork and were stacked like Besides providing fish for early settlers, cordwood in wagons to be shipped east by the lake offered easy transportation in pre- the carload. In 1 883 W . L. Sheely esti­ railroad days. The steamer Minnie H and mated he hadcaughtand shipped more than 10,000 pounds offish in four months. As the lake driedandstagnated, however, the fish died. In the 1 920's the University of North Dakota established a biological station on the shores of Creel Bay, in the area then known as Chautauqua, Lakewood now. Attempts were made to find fish that could live in those waters by experiment­ ing with fish in tanks of varying salinity. As the lake freshened again in the 1950's, northern pike were planted; and in 1956 and 1957 yellow perch, white bass and walleyes were added. Fishing is common now in 1976 at Ziebach's Pass, Creel Bay, Devils Lake Yacht & Boat Club House

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38 her sister ships took mail, freight, and through the center would be 60 miles, the passengers more or less regularly to six the shoreline was 300 miles, and the lake points on the lake. Loading directly from 10 miles at the widest. The lake was ap­ a dock by the newly constructed depot, parently formed by a glacier and had no the ships went from Devils Lake city to visible outletalthough there were probably Chautauqua on Creel Bay, Fort Totten, underground waterways to the Sheyenne, Minnewaukan on West Bay, Graham's Is­ James and Red Rivers. About 1890 the lake land and Grand Harbor, about two miles had gone down to 1,425 feet, and fish from its present location. Captain John began dying. In 1931 bathing in the lake Ford later had launches that were popular. ceased until the 50's. In 1940 it was down This shipping lasted until the lake got too to 1,400.9 feet, the all-time low, having shallow and the railroads were extended. dropped six feet between 1936 and 1940. Today pleasure craft dot Creel Bay. Bath­ In 1949 the lake covered only 7,000 acres. ing was considered healthful in those waters An interesting side-effect of this decrease and a large bathhouse was built on Creel in depth was the uncovering ofbuffalo Bay, rebuilt later, and then moved to bones on the dried lake beds. The Devils Lake for its first swimming pool. main lake never dried completely, but the As indicated, the depth and size of the the bays did. West Bay was one of the first lake has varied considerably. Glacial to recede, and settlers collected bones to evidence reveals a possible 1,446 feet ship east to carbon and chemical works in above sea level in 1830. In 1867 the Fort Chicago, Detroit and St. Louis. In the Totten level was 1,443 feet, Devils Lake 1880'satthe height of this cash-producing proper 1,466, Grand Harbor 1,458 and project, these collections were made on Minnewaukan 1,483. In 1887 the lake the prairies and on the south shore near covered 86,000 acres, although data Fort Totten, but as late as 1935 Creel Bay seemed to indicate a 90,000 acre surface dried, revealing cattle bones, collected earlier. then only as a curiosity. In 1950 the lake began rising again Letters from early settlers were quoted from heavy spring rains and snow run-off. in eastern newspapers "back home". Mrs. Rushing water widened the Ziebach Pass C . K . Chapman wrote for the Boston Trans­ channel from 50 to 200 feet in three days. cript in 1887 that the lake was 55 x 17 In 1956 the level had reached 1,420 feet. miles. In the Oxford, Maine, Advertiser, In 1975 the 1,924.39 level was the highest November 15, 1884, the lake was des- in seventy years .This rise caused problems cribedasbeing 50miles long with 300 miles forthe highways that had been built during miles of shoreline. Besides the medicinal the drier years. The Narrows, which had water, burning limestone and firm brick been bridged in early years, now an oiled clay were by-products. A letter in the highway, was threatenedandan emergency Council Bluffs, Iowa, Jjerajd said at Mis­ dike was built. Then a weir provided a sion Bay a 190 foot line didn't touch bot­ passage to East Bay to relieve the pressure tom, but at Fort Totten the depth was 42 on the road. The National Guard dumped feet. Pickerel from three to six pounds tonsof rock and old cement blocks for rip­ were caught there. G. I. Reed wrote in rap during several summers including 1975. the Peru, Indiana, Republican that Cap- But high westerly winds still pushed water tain Heerman's Minnie H had been caught over the roadway and caused poor visibil­ in a sudden storm and had to be anchored ity when high waves splashing on the rocks four miles from the fort landing. hit the windshields of cars. Late in 1975 In a brochure "Devils Lake Illustrated" this portion of the road and the section by written in 1898, the lake was noted as a Fort Totten were raised four feet. The Gar­ picturesque inland sea. A line drawn rison Diversion, when finished, would RAMSEY MOTORS, INC.

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-39 - maintain the level of 1,425 feet. Studies souri River water impounded by the have been made to determine the reasons Garrison Dam into Devils Lake by canals forthis fluctuation in the lake levels, and and pools. This dream was first conceived the most documented reasons seem to be the in 1888 before North Dakota became a increasedcultivationaroundthe lake which state, and an appeal to study the possibil­ slowed run-off andclimatic changes of wet ity was made to President Harrison. In and dry cycles. 1889 at the North Dakota Constitutional Today the lake is used primarily for Convention, the Farmers' Alliance, one of pleasure with water skiing, boating, fish­ the first state political parties, pushed for ing and swimming. The east shore of Creel investigationof the state's water needs and Bay has long been settled, first with cot­ possible irrigation. This was supported by tages housing patrons of the famous Chaut­ Major J. W. Powell, director of the auqua program, now as the site of lovely United States Geological Survey, and a permanent homes. With the recent rising public meeting in Grand Forks resulted in of the water level, the opposite shore has sending a memorandum to Congress re­ been divided into lots, some selling at $350 questing two surveys. The resulting two per 100 x 200 foot lot. The East Bay shore surveys were unable to find a feasible lo­ is also being developed. Camping sites cation to link the two waterways. In 1891 have been added to the Creel Bay shore as the North Dakota legislature asked Con­ well as at Ziebach Pass. gress to appropriate money for the pro­ The big project in everyone's mind and gram, and in 1900 James J . Hill, president here briefly related is the Garrison Diver­ of the Great Northern Railway, pushed sion, one purpose of which is the stabili- for diversion from Fort Peck. The United zationofthe lake level, by diverting Mis­ States Geological Survey considered a

•BNL!: This photo, taken in October 1935, shows what can happen to Devils Lake, Here former residents Mrs. Earl Smith (left) and the late Mrs. Martin Vagstad stand on the dry bottom of Creel Bay below the Town and Country Club. The only sport the lake offered then was collecting cattle skulls. J. C. PENNEY CO.

Devils Lake, North Dakota

"WE KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR"

40 canal from the Mouse River near Minot. Riverandto restore and sweeten the waters In the 1920's Sivert Thompson of Devils of Devils Lake, the New Rockford Canal Lakebeganthe fight in spite of controver­ to irrigate the lands along the James River sies over site, cost, benefits, proposed and Sheyenne River, and the Sykestown water levels, dangerof flooding if the dam Canal for part of the lands in the upper broke, etc. In 1933 four plans were pre­ James River watershed. Water from Devils sented by a state engineer. In 1934 Presi­ Lake would eventually flow into Stump dent Franklin Roosevelt was appealed to Lake and back to the Sheyenne River Basin. onhistrip to the dry area, but his advisors The financing of this enormous project could see no way to implement the idea. is on an annual basis and in recent years In 1942 and 1943 the flooding Missouri has been strongly contested by environ­ gave new impetus to the attempt to control mental groups in North Dakota, Canada, the river's water. Finally the Pick-Sloan and Minnesota who call for at least a mor­ Plan was approved in the Flood Control atorium to allow further study. Many local Act of Congress in 1944. Lewis C. Pick groups are continuing support through the was of the Corps of Engineers and Glenn Devils Lake Chamber of Commerce, the Sloanwasfrom the Bureau of Reclamation. Devils Lake Basin Committee, the state This plan was to make possible irrigation of representatives and senator. James Col- 1.2 million acres, restoration of Devils linson is on the Diversion Board taking Lake levels, supplying water to 1 9 towns overthe leadership once supplied by Sivert at an estimated cost of 105 million dollars Thompson. Much money has already been in a six-year schedule. However, World spent, not only on the actual construction War II diverted the priority of the dam, but and land acquisition but also on recrea­ in 1946 the construction of the dam was tional plans. The National Park Service begun, in 1947 the first shovelful of earth Board has already built the camp site near was lifted for the dam itself and in 1953 Ziebach Pass. the closure was completed, with President Eisenhower speaking at the formal cere­ If the project is successfully completed, monies. In 1956 Lake Sakakawea, the "Enchanted Waters "will again be a descrip­ third largest man-made lake in the nation tive name for the mighty waters of Devils was formed. In 1955 the state organized Lake. the Garrison DiversionConservancy District to be over-all supervisor of all organiza­ tions involved in the project. Directors BIBLIOGRAPHY were representatives of the twenty-five counties involved. With the river being Flynn, Edward F. "Farly History of Devils Lake and Surrounding Territory 1957. Devils Lake Guidebook" dammed, the McClusky Dam and Lonetree reprint. Reservoir to be built, the obstruction of Barnet, Leroy. "Buffalo Bones Days" Devils Lake the Continental Divide wouldbe overcome. Daily Journal January 9, 1973. Inl956the first electrical power was gen­ "Devils Lake's 75 Years" Official Souvenir Pro­ gram 1957. erated from the dam. The plan, when Devils Lake Daily Journal Devils Lake, N. D. modified later, called for the irrigation of Jubilee Edition. June 28, 1957; August 12, 1971; 1,007,000acres, municipal and industrial May 7, 1973; July 4, 1973 and January 13, 1976. "Devils Lake Illustrated" 1898. use of water for 41 towns and cities, fish Plummet, B.W. Sctapbook of clippings from Devils and wildlife uses, and recreation. The plan Lake Daily Journal, Grand Forks Herald, Fargo Forum, calls for use of natural waterways and canals not always dated. to carry water from the Lonetree Reservoir "Garrison Diversion" State Water Commission bro­ chure. at Velva for irrigation in the Souris River Raymond, L. K . "Trip over the Plains of North Da­ watershed, the Devils Lake canal to irri­ kota in 1865" from Raymond's_ Diary, North Dakota gate part of the lands north of Sheyenne Historical^Quarterfy II 222.

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41 Devils Lake Legend

For many years the Chippewa and the sundown; no attack could be made unless Sioux had been bitter enemies. The Chip­ the war cry was first given so as to warn pewa were gradually pushing the Sioux the women and children to a place of safety. southward and westward. Finally, the Silently the war parties started to cross Chippewa found themselves deep in Sioux the lake. In the very center they met and territory with their war parties camped on a fierce battle ensued. The water became the northern shore of the lake. The coni­ redwithblood. So intent were the warriors cal tepee of the Sioux were pitched on the in fighting that they did not hear the maon- southern shore of the lake. ing of the wind. The blood-red water rocked The Sioux warriors met in council, de­ and swelled withthe onslaught of the wind, termined to drive the Chippewa from their and a great wave flung itself upon the hunting grounds once and for all. As dark­ canoesandal! the men were hurled below. ness fell, they decided to cross the lake, From that day on, an Evil Spirit dwells surprise the Chippewa and destroy them. within the lake. The place was shunned by On the north side of the lake the Chippewa Sioux and Chippewa alike. The Evil One were making similar plans. waits patiently for an Indian to paddle a canoe on the water so that he may overturn Nothought was given to the law of the the canoe andclaim the Indian for his own. Great Spirit concerning warfare — no at­ The Evil One stays where the Great Spirit tack must be made before sunrise or after has been forgotten.

The Story of Howastena (Beautiful Voice)

Translated by Father Jerome

My father lived on the lake shore near great wonder in the camp. CouldChippewas what is now Minnewaukan town, as early have come soclose ?Could friends be look­ as 1851. I was born there in 1863. My ing for us? In the early dawn a number of father fold me of an island which used to Dacotahs swam over fo the island and be there. Since the lake has sunk this is­ searched the woods. But a few frightened land is but a point of land. One night in deerandsmall animals were all they found. summer when there was no moonlight and So real had been the sound of voices in darkness was so thick that the island could the night, and so regular the beating of not be seen from the mainland, strange the drum, that they could not believe the sounds were heard. The beating of a drum sounds to have been made by the winds or came across the water, the sound of chant­ animals. From that time they called the ing and confused voices mingled with the lake Minnewaukan or Holy Lake. What you usual rustle and swish of waves. There was call Devil's Heart we call the Heart of the Holy Lake .

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AMERICA, OUR LAND AND PROUD OF IT! Ph:662-2180 Devils Lake, N. D, 312 Fourth St.

44 CHAPTER 3 A History of North Dakota Chautauqua

First of all let us understand what the Roosevelt, "It's the most American thing word Chautauqua means: from Webster Dic­ in America. " tionary and Home Reference Library — "Chautauqua ... corruption of an Indian In 1883 the United States granted home­ phrase signifying Foggy Place. stead rights to Jeremiah Birum. Through In western New York state there is a power of attorney I. J. Starbuck of Mc- lake named Chautauqua, a popular resort. Cook, Nebraska, Mr. Birum granted power Here in 1874 met a large adult assembly of attorney to Edward E . Heerman who on and summer school on the northern shore October 9, 1883, transferred 80 acres of Lake Chautauqua led by John Heyl Vin­ "more or less" for consideration of $1,000 cent, Bishop of the American Methodist to E . E . Nagel. Then E . E . Nagel trans­ Episcopal Church, and by Lewis Miller. ferred said land to Edward E. Heerman. Since that time such assemblies have been October 8, 1883 the United States called Chautauquas. It grew rapidly into granted 84.95 acres to John R. Matherson one of the most important and characteris­ of Iowa. There was a following power of tic American contributions to popular ed­ attorney from Mathersonand wife to M. J. ucation. No other influence, until the Wine. Then power of attorney from Mr. rise of university extentions, did so much and Mrs. Matherson was given to M. J. to direct reading of thousands of adults who Wine and Edward E. Heerman. A transfer wanted to supplement their early educa­ of said land from the Mathersons and Heer­ tion. man, their power of attorney, was made to E. E. Nagel who in turn transferred the The programs were held in open grounds same lands to Edward E. Heerman on Oc­ where camping wasavailable for those who tober 9, 1883, land of 84.95 acres. wanted to remain the entire week or two sessions. Life in the open air was the prime On a place of these two parcels of feature at a Chautauqua. Laying aside land, namedRock Island, by Mr. Heerman, cares and responsibilities, the merchant, he made his first North Dakota home on farmer, housewife and children exper­ the shores of Devils Lake. It was here that ienced genuine pleasure . Captain Edward E. Heerman decided to locate an assembly place for the building Special graded courses of study were of his noted steam ship, Minnie H, and a established in almost a hundred subjects. saw mill in January of 1883. Simple text books were supplied to hun­ dreds of thousands of members in America As winter weather abated, Mr. Heer­ and abroad of the Chautauqua Literary man and his men set up the saw mill and and Scientific Circle . Diplomas were given it became a first industry on the shores of at the end of a four year course . what isnowcalledCreel Bay. The saw mill ran from daylight to dark making lumber Besides the parent assembly still each from native timber for the homesteaders to year in July and August, local Chautauquas build their claim shacks. By night all the with lectures, readings, music, sports and sawed lumber was taken away and a line varied entertainment were then held of more customers stood waiting . By Janu­ throughout the country. The Chautauqua maintained a high standard of religion ary 29, 1883, Mr. Heerman and his men and patriotism and its seasons were built had living quarters set up where they could around the nation's founding date of July cook, eat and sleep in a good worker's Fourth. In the words of President Theodore house. The Minnie H was completed at a

Ph: 662-4936 South 4th St. and Highway 20 Devils Lake, N. D. S^ \N^ STATE BANK

-45 - CHAUTAUQUA ASSEMBLY GROUNDS AND ADD/r/ONS AT DEVILS LAKE, Af. O. Sca/r I'-ICC' J A Hall, Ju/y, 1922, Pr/zntututr

-46 - dock named Heerman's Landing which was Fargo;J.H. KeeleyofSt. Thomas; J . N. located about where we now can see the Devine of Lamoure; John Ogden of Bis­ concrete pen of the old bear pit. The marck; Alfred Dickey, J. F. Vennum of trials, successand termination of the Heer­ Jamestown; and R. C . Cooper of Coopers- man shipping business are covered under town. The committee urgently invite all another chapter in this history book. the information possible to be sent or pre­ The announcement of the First Summer sented to them as soon as possible." (from Assembly at Spiritwood Lake July 6-18, Grand Forks Herald) 1892, includes a program of highest in­ Devils Lake, through the liberality and terest. A brilliant array of platform talent enterprise of its people and the utmost had been secured, among the lecturers beauty and attractiveness of the site offer­ being those of national reputation. Cost of ed, was selected as the permanent Chau­ admission and subsistance was placed at tauqua site. the lowest possible figure. Reduced rates On November 23, 1892, Captain Ed­ of transportation were promised on the ward E. Heerman, a widower, conveyed Northern Pacific and expected on other to the Devils Lake Chautauqua Associa­ roads. Full information was gladly furnish­ tion, a corporation, in consideration of ed from the superintendent, Rev. Eugene $3,000 the west one half of southeast one May, 109 South N inth St., Fargo, N . D . fourth and lots 3and 4 of section 18, town­ A July 30, 1892 report of the First ship 153, range 64, and describing lake Chautauqua Assembly states: 'Considerable shore of said lands as 100 feet south and to interest is now being developed over a 100 feet north of a dock known as Heer­ Chautauqua summer assembly in North Da­ man's Landing. The agreement provided kota. The first one was held this month said Association shall make the first year July6-18that Spiritwood Lake, the under­ $5,000 improvements and second year an­ taking of a few men, one of whom Rev. other $5,000 improvements totaling May of Fargo was the most prominent. The $10,000 improvements and shall revert to most noticable result of the gathering was Captain Heerman if the Association fails the large interest it has developed. An or­ to make said improvements. Thus here be­ ganization was affected upon the grounds gan North Chautauqua, North Dakota on of 1,000sharesofstockat $5.00 per share, approximately 80 acres more or less on the about 200 shares of which is now taken. An west shore of Rock Island. executive committee was chosen by the Through succeeding years the Chautau­ stockholders, who were empowered to qua Association secured additional adjoin­ choose the place of the meeting for next ing lands to about 1 20 acres in all. These year. This committee has had one meeting additions are called Lake Park Addition, andaretohave another in Fargo August 3, Annagisaw Park Addition, Woodland Park at 2:00 p.m. in the Columbia. Spiritwood Addition and Glenwood Addition to Chau­ Lake, Valley City, Detroit Lake and Devils tauqua. Lake are now heard from as wanting the permanent Chautauqua. It seems quite The shore line of the grounds defines the probable that where the committee locates eastern boundary of North Chautauqua Bay, next year's Chautauqua, there will be the a most beautiful arm of Devils Lake, pene­ permanent location, for enough stock will trating inland from the south a distance of be taken by those interested to control it. four miles and having an average width of The committee is very desirous to hear one mile and varying water depths of from from every place and know what are the a few inches to thirty or forty feet. With its advantages of each. The committee are: elevation of 40 feet above the surface of Smith Stimmel, I. M. Adams, Eugene May, Devils Lake waters, the Chautauqua grounds I.W. Clapp and W.W. Bartlett all of gently slopes into a gravelly beach to the KDLR, INC. 1240 AM 96.7 FM

SERVING THE LAKE REGION SINCE 1925

47 - water'sedge. The heavily timbered native the story of the Glacial Drift, " a new woodlands of ash, elm, oak, and box- lecture prepared especially for this first elder, up to two feet in diameter, afford meeting and dealing with the intensely delightful protection from the heat of the entertaining theme of the march of ages day and cool lake breezes make the day over the rocks, hills and^alleysof North and evenings most comfortable for camp­ Dakota. ers. Prayer Circle meetings were held at But the forest is not the only natural 8:30eachmorning . Captain Heerman gave attraction. The water was clear as crystal, a free excursion on the lake with the Min­ strongly impregnated with sulphite and nie H on the second day ofAssembly. carbonate of soda, lime magnesium, iron This was to those who held ground's ad­ and soda very much resembling the water mission tickets. of the ocean. For bathing its equal could Classes were organized in physical cul­ not be found in any other interior body of ture, music and art. An evening concert water in the country. Truly an inland sea by the Eastern Star Ladies'quartet; a Song of salts, the water was a specific treat­ Service from the Assembly Song Book, ment for many forms of sciatic and nervous "Honey out of the Rock", a new book ills. specially for use at the assembly; were just The Chautauqua grounds was laid out in a few of the entertainments at this first the form of a park centered by an open Assembly at Devils Lake . The State Sunday area called the auditorium circle. South School convention, Farmers Day, and Tem­ and east of this was a large baseball field perance Day were well attended. Over and adjoinging this on the east was 2,000 people attended the July Fourth the larger picnic grounds. Wedge shape programs and evening fire works. cottage lots of 25 feet frontage tapering During the 1893 session a State Chau­ to 50 feet width at the back and one hun­ tauqua Association was formed with a view dred feet in length, subject to a 99 year of studying the regular Chautauqua As- lease, formed a semi-circle around three semblycourses. The officers elected were: sidesofthe auditorium circle. The Articles L. L. Duncan, Fargo, president; Rev. of Incorporation, No. 7 stated that the Amos A. Doyle, New Rockford, 1st vice capital stock shall be $25,000 divided into president; Mrs. W. T. McBride, St. 1,000 snares of $25.00 each. Thomas, 2ndvice president; Mrs. E . Smith, The first annual meeting of the State Grand Forks, secretary; Rev. C. W. Col- Chautauqua Assembly was held Wednesday, linge, Wheatland, treasurer; Committee June 28 through Monday, July 17, 1893 on on Constitution, by-laws and programs: the beautiful new permanent grounds on L. L. Duncan, Mr. Schoeninger and W.J. the shore of Creel Bay. Commodious build­ Clapp, Fargo; Rev. C. W. Collinge, tent ings were being erected and every con­ committee. venience provided by the directors. The Hackman Faddenof Grand Forks was on complete program of the Session was pub­ the grounds this year with his hack running lished in local newspapers. Good publicity daily. made the success of the Chautauqua from Ready for the 1893 session was the new the beginning letting people know what wa< Chautauqua hotel, Oakwood, erected planned for their entertainment and relax­ 32 x 90 feet and three stories high. It had ation for the year's session. a piazza nine feet wide on the north, west Some of this first year's program included and south sides, and cost about $5,000. It concertsbythe Devils Lake Brass Band and was located at the southwest corner of the the Indian Boys Band from Fort Totten; auditorium circle and was equipped to ac­ M.V.B. Knox D.D. gave a lecture on commodate 250guests. The Great Northern "Devils Lake History, Legendand Geology, railroads made special rates of 1 1/5 fare

COCA-COLA BOTTLING COMPANY OF DEVILS LAKE & JAMESTOWN

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

48 for Chautauqua visitors. Detroit Lakes, too numerous to mention." People found Minnesota one of the vying towns for these in the sands of the beaches. Chautauqua, now had abandoned its in­ Officers elected on July 14, 1894 to tention to have a Chautauqua Assembly, serve the coming year were: H. F. Arnold so this insured an increase of attendance Larimore, president; J. W. Maher, Devils at Devils Lake . Lake, vice president; C. W.Collinge, corresponding secretary and J . A . Stewart, By 1894 crowds at Chautauqua in­ treasurer. These officers served with the creased greatly. The Association ordered following as the board of directors: V. J. a dozen more row boats and a fleet of sail South, S. A. Nye, J. B. Eaton all of boats and row boats were on hand for the Devils Lake; J. H. Keeley, Larimore; J. guests. The little launch used at Spirit­ M. Devine, LaMoure andC . H . Clemoner, wood Lake for several years was brought Dickinson. Residents and Chautauqua to Devils Lake to carry excursionists during visitors were nudging for a street car line the encampment. The North Dakota Ed­ to Chautauqua from the city at this time. itorial Association held its convention at The 1894 session came to a close on July Chautauqua and on July 14th held its meet­ 15. ing aboard the Minnie H . Devils Lake, May 21, 1895 ... "The At this time, mining was a hopeful ven­ Devils Lake Chautauqua Summer Assembly ture as interested individuals had gone for the season of '95 met June 28 to July down fifteen feet digging for coal but hit­ 21. The grounds have been cleared and ting slate. From May 8, 1894 Grand Forks beautified, numerous cottages are being Herald: "Devils Lake is carefully nursing erected, the auditorium is remodeled, and the latest mine boom. Sapphires, rubies asan excellentarrayof talent has been se­ and other jewels are found in quantities cured, the expectations are fora very large

A gathering at the Chautauqua Auditorium.

NORTH DAKOTA CHAUTAUQUA 76 CORPORATION

"MOST AMBITIOUS BICENTENNIAL PROJECT IN NORTH DAKOTA"

-49- attendance. "This is the first account of an with their various war dances in native auditorium forChautauqua and since it was costumes. remodeled, this yearseems to set the date The Indians left very abruptly on July for its erection of, at least, 1894 for this 5th, over some misunderstanding or disa­ auditorium. There is no record of an aud­ greement that occurred. This was the last itorium built in 1893 when the Chautauqua one of the old fashioned gatherings of the was first held on the Devils Lake Rock Is­ RedyMen of the Northwest. land grounds. Would you expect it? Yes, there were From a June 14 account: "The Temple inconsiderates even at Chautauqua . July quartet; Prof Eatonand his wonderful tele­ 22, 1895 is this account: "Why is it that scope; Dr. Marks, the eminent orientalist; one of the most pleasant walks along the the world-wide known lecturer Hon. Sam­ terrace should have a tent pitched just uel PhelpsLeland; and two finished elocu- where it obstructs the path and forces ped­ tionistsand scores of other talented people estrians to make a circle through the complement this year's programs. Excellent weeds -thing which istrulymost unpleasant bathing, bath houses, water tobaggons, for the numerous people who pass on the slides, daily steamboat excursions to such homeward walk from lectures late at night, points as Fort Totten and Devils Heart let alone the lovers bent on a moonl ight Mountain, the well managed three story ramble? Beware! Beware! A Kodak is hotel, plenty of tents, stables for teams, on the grounds too. " all were available for 1895 guests. Boats A curio store was doing a fine business aplenty were available to row, sail or to selling items from the Pacific to the At­ go fishing. " For those wanting more infor­ lantic. The peanut stand did a flourishing mation a postal card addressed to Edgar business. The ice cream and lemonade LaRue, secretary, Devils Lake, N. D. standalso providedm ilk shakes which were brought by return mail a printed program in great demand. The grocery store with and all information desired concerning the everything in the grocery line, was kept Chautauqua. and a good business done. A Devils Lake artist was on the grounds most of the time Mrs. Cairns (wife of the former propri­ and some splendid views were taken of the etor, Robert Cairns, who was killed in a lake and grounds' activities. railroad accident) was running the Oak- Five persons were graduated and given wood Hotel and ably assisted by her diplomas from the Chautauqua Literary and brother, W. D. Miller in 1895. Scientific Circle in 1895. Dr. Leland of The auditorium had been greatly im­ Chicago gave the graduation lecture. proved and made much more comfortable. July 18, 1895 was a very special day It was decorated in the stars and stripes for Chautauquas when Superintendent Prof. and bunting for the July 4th celebration. CanfieId brought his Indian School children The Devils Lake 22 piece band had new to Chautauqua on the Minnie H . They ar­ uniforms for this year and played at the rived about eleven o'clock a.m. and at Chautauqua . three p.m. presented their program . (The Captain Heerman, operating the steam- girls under their matron, Mrs. Ellis, were / / ships, Minnie H and Rock Island, made taught sewing, mending, dressmaking, several trips daily fo take Chautauqua laundry work, etc. outside of their school guests to Fort Totten to visit the encamp­ acitivities. Boys, under charge of Mrs. ment there of over 2,000 Indians intheir Canfield, were taught various trades such tepees and the Indian School. Among the as blacksmithing, carpentering, masonry, different tribes assembled there in 1895 shoe-making, harness making, tailoring, were the White Earth, Standing Rock and engineering and baking. The school then Turtle Mountain Indians; who entertained had an attendance of about 200 Indian The Devils Lake World THE LAKE REGION'S MOST (OUTSTANDIN G WEEKLY NEWSPAPER

Ph: 662-2414 510 -< Sth St. South Devi Is Lake, N. D.

50 - children. Thirty four white people were For the 1899 Chautauqua session the employed at the school. With government Association tried to get the big tent of the allowance of $167.00 per capita for 150 New Rockford Modern Woodmen of Amer­ children, fortyextra pupils were kept with­ ica, but found out late that it had already out any discomfort to the school. When been rented, so six additional rooms were these children presented their afternoon fitted-up to the auditorium for use of the programs representing the various depart­ talent. This auditorium which had a seat­ ments of their education, included was a ing capacity of 1,000 received new netting concert by the Indian Boys' Band. tacked on and a canvas roof for this sea­ At the July 18, 1895 meeting of the son. The seats were overhauled and steadied stockholders of the Devils Lake Chautauqua and the "natural "floor scraped and leveled. Association held during the session, these CharlesA. Graw had charge of decorating officers were elected: H. F. Arnold, Lar­ the auditorium for this season. imore, president; John W. Maher, Devils Completion of a 300 seat grandstand at Lake, vice president; A. M. Powell, the rear of the baseball diamond was made Devils Lake, secretary. All were directors for 1899. Those seated would be protected ex-officio. Other directors were N. K. by the wire netting which was installed. Larimore, Larimore; C.J. Lord, Cando; The stand was 32 feet long and had 8 rows Rev. C. W. Collinge, Drayton; Rev. of seats. Eugene May, Fargo; C . W. Kelly, F. B. By the end of April 1899 seventy tents, Fancher and John A. Percival all of Devils owned by the Association, had already Lake. At this meeting the Association been engaged by campers for the Chautau- viewed plans for the coming years, evalu- que session of three weeks. Many were ting the needs for a better and larger aud­ from the city and outlying areas who sought itorium . Three points listed were : "probable camping facilities. Devils Lake by this growth of attendance over the next ter time had a population of 2,000. years, the building had better to be too D. W. Pinkerton was running the water large than too small; second, every at­ wagon for the season and promised fresh tention should be given to its acoustic artesian water at all times for reasonable properties;and thirdly, the building should rates. A bicycle track was around the aud­ should be substantially built and weather itorium circle and on to the city of Devils and wate proof and the sides provided with Lake. There were also courts for tennis "flies" to exclude the glaring sun of the and croquet. good weather and the beating rain of the To briefly mention a few of the 1899 bad, and also that theymay be closed down sessions' special numbers, they were: A and darkened at an early hour when stereo- lecture by General C . Reeves who recently pticon attractions are on, instead of hav­ had returned from the Phillipines; orator ing to keep the people up until midnight was Ignatius Donnelly, a profound student in order that a sufficient degree of dark­ of Shakespeare; and a well received per­ ness was secured to allow the show to go formance by the jovial comedian Uncle on." Josh. James J . Hill, founder of the Great In the late 1890's a Great Northern Northern railroad system , was the Farmers' Rail road coach was moved to the Chautau­ Day speaker. qua beach set on blocks about 50 feet Association officers elected for 1899 south from the railway depot and south of were: H. F. Arnold, Larimore, president; the L-shaped dock. It was remodeled into R. L.Cleveland, Devils Lake, vice presi­ a restaurant and operated for many years dent^. H. Brown, corresponding secre­ by Mr. and Mrs. George Thompson of North tary^. P. Mann, treasurer; Edgar LaRue, Chautauqua. It was known as the Lake superintendent of grounds, all from Devils View Diner. Lake. Named also were six directors and

DEVILS LAKE BICENTENNIAL COMMITTEE

"NORTH DAKOTA'S MOST ACTIVE BICENTENNIAL COMMUNITY"

51 - nine honorary directors, the latter all from StatesCongresstoconsiderdigging a canal without the immediate Devils Lake area. linking the upper Missouri River with Lake Inthesummerof 1899J. H. McCullough Superior via Devils Lake, the Red River of Milton, N.D. made the Chautauqua and the Mississippi River. " Little seemed Association a proposition to have a June to come of this convention but it actually 20, 1900 train to Chautauqua provided he wasa beginning of a diversion project that have a 30 year franchise. Fares were to now in 1976 is being constructed in North never exceed 25c; a trip. On July 7, 1899 Dakota. the Chautauqua Association made a con­ The year of 1900 found the Chautauqua tract with J. H. McCullough for right of Assoc iation extremely busy making what was way for a Chautauqua railway, (this from likely its greatest amount of improvements the original abstract) in one year in its history. The five day The waters of Devils Lake had been session was to open June 30th. steadily receeding for several years so that From June 26, 1900 Devils Lake Inter- it threatened more than just the Chautau­ Ocean .. . "The business men who so nobly qua beach activities. Captain E. E. Heer­ took charge of the railroad enterprise when man, that fall had to make it his last trip its failure seemed imminent are to be con- into the dock at Devils Lake city with his mended. " A work crew was doubled and steamboat Minnie H . Mr. Heerman became records broken in laying track. The rails, very concerned about this situation and tried of a narrow gauge, were of those formerly to interest authorities into getting water to used in Alaska gold mines. The steam en­ the lake from some distant source . Although gine secured had been used in Minnesota no names were mentioned, this account mines. In Devils Lake a track was extended was in a November 12, 1899 Grand Forks to the Great Northern roundhouse so this Herald: "On this date an 'irrigation con­ engine could be repaired. The worn out vention' meeting was held in Grand Forks flues were replaced with new ones in one and adopted a resolution asking the United day. As the track laying progressed, the

? • & -^Jm

••»> ,«r- 4

" • AiV v'*:*^,.'. ' * >•#%

The Chautauqua train with Captain Ford as engineer, Girl in foreground is niece of Dr. T. E. McLean, Devils Lake dentist.

52 engine was engaged in conveying trucks cated. Duringa rainyspell the softened dirt loaded with ties and rails down the track. road bed would often delay a regular sched­ Teams were used to haul the dirt in for the ule. Season coupon books containing fifty making of the road bed first. C. Budde was ridesgood for any family member were sold incharge of the construction of the Chau­ for $5.00 or ten cents a ride. However, dur­ tauqua depot and platform . Used train ing the Chautauqua session, these coupons coaches brought from Stillwater, Minne­ were not accepted. sota were well repaired and painted here. At Devils Lake the train depot was just This all made up a train of from five to south of the Great Northern depot and at eight coaches and one baggage car. Chautauqua its depot was located at the The train was the swiftest thing out as Chautauqua officers headquarters entrance it could make the six mile trip to town in gate where passengers would pay their 132 minutes from Chautauqua and return ground's entrance fees. This requirement in 20 minutes making a stop for water at was very strictly enforced so no one enter­ the tank. Everything was being done that ed the Chautauqua grounds without paying it would run "in apple pie order. "The admittance. After over seventeen years of "new air line "as it was often called left efficient and accommodating services to town at 12:00 noon, 2:00, 5:00, 7:00 and Chautauqua residents and guests, the train 8:00p.m . and would return in an hour but was running into difficulties. the time one way was only 15 minutes. The Devils Lake and Chautauqua Trans­ Ernie Hanson was at the helm of the train. fer Company held a meeting August 2, This steam train ran principally during the 1 917to discuss differences in the operation month of the Chautauqua session for Sun­ of the railroad to Chautauqua, which had days and holidays when the passenger loads been "running in the red. " October 31 , were greatest. 1917 another meeting was held to deter­ A lighter and smaller train, operated mine if enough extra shares could be sold by Jack Wolf, had open caboose-type to get the "line "out of debt. The company coaches and was powered by a gasoline at this time was practically owned by the engine made from a car motor. A Devils Stotler Investment Company and there was Lake and Chautauqua Transfer Company much talk of possibly discontinuing the which operated this "trolley line" from the t ra in. city to Chautauqua was organized by July In December came this local paper 1, 1903 when its articles of incorporation headline . .. "Chautauqua Railroad is Go­ were filed for record with E/. F. Porter, ing to the Scrap Pile." By December 12th secretary of state, according to James C. work was begun to lift the track. Jack McCormick who has this document now. Wolf was in charge of the operation. The His father was a member of the first board steam engine was used to draw the rails to of the Transfer Company as were George the city. A Fargo company purchased the W. Dixon of Devils Lake and John H . Mc­ railsandthe ties were sold for stove wood. Cullough of Milton. The capital stock of Movable assets and equipment were report­ of the corporation was $27,000 which was ed to be about $9,500 which was to be divided into 270 shares of $100 each. The reverted to the stockholders. By this time purpose of this corporation was to "transfer automobile travel had interfered with the by any method, passenger, personal bag­ little train to such an extent it could no gage and light freight." Its trips often longer financially be operated. started at six o'clock in the morning and How much do you value souvenirs? An ran at night unti I such time as its passengers April 1945 account that might be interest­ reached their night's destination. This gas­ ing to some. "Lake Region residents who oline train operated from May first until fall have been saving tickets and other souven­ or until such time as the grounds were va­ irs from the old Chautauqua railway to GREENLEAF AGENCY

PROUD TO BE A PART OF OUR AMERICAN HERITAGE

Ph: 662-2424 405 Fourth Ave. Devils Lake, N. D.

53 Lakewood were offered cash for their keep­ with a pump station at the beach to fill sakes by the Museum of Transportation at the barrels on top. On the grounds were Brooklyn, N. Y." twoother hotelsowned by the Association. During the time the railway bed was One was for the talent and called, "The made and tracks laid, Allen Tompkins put Talent House. " The other was for the Band in telephone poles along the railroad. On Men. Enger and Company had a barber them wires were strung immediately and in shop in the hotel. Hotel manager this year a few days, Chautauqua had its first tele­ was J. O. Baugham. The Oakwood was phone which was located at the train de­ torn down many years later. pot. At this time (June 28, 1900) Devils With all of the new fac i I it ies erected Lake had 190 phones. in this one year, by the Association, per­ The old bath house was entirely re­ haps it could be well said that the new modeled in 1900 and an addition made . Grand Auditorium was the largest and long­ This allowed fourteen ladies' dressing est remembered and longest used of the rooms. Men's rooms were at the south side projects. Lumber for it was hauled in by of the building. Ladies wore long clothing team, of course as at that time there was forbathing outfitsas it was highly improper no other over-land transportation. fora lady to show her ankles at the bathing By June 26, 1900 the auditorium, built beach. The newaddition, a high structure, of heavy timbers, was entirely completed had a band stand built on the center of its and the seats were set in. The building had top. The pier going from the bath house a Roman style of architecture of an elipse was enclosed this year. A bowling alley form . Its axes were 115 and 113 feet. From was located in a part of the bath house. the floor to the top of the cupalo was 58 A fine shooting gallery was located within feet. The stage was 32 x 90 feet and the the park where, those interested, could orchestra pit 10 x 40 feet. The contractor practice daily. who built the huge structure was N.J. Forthosewho could not stand the shock Warner of Grand Forks, N . D . It was one of a cold lake plunge, an indoor pool was of three largest auditoriums in the United built as part of the original bath house in States and so perfectly was the construc­ 1900. About 25 x 40 feet in size, it was tion that the acoustic properties were well deep enough so that a diving board could nigh perfect. A person in the center or be used. The water in the pool was raised rearof the building was able to hear plainly to a comfortable temperature by artificial and distinctly every word spoken on the heat. stage. Captain Walter Furstenau was lifeguard, Plank seats enough to accomodate at swimming instructor and operator of the least 4,000 people were so arranged on the bath house for several years. A high dive natural grade of the graveled floor, that stand was nearby. A larger toboggan slide the audience had excellent view of the was also constructed this year. The large stage performances. Top-hinged large new bath house, dedicated June 27, 1921, doors, sometimes called "flies" were on was the last one to be used at the lake. two sides of the building. When opened When finally torn down, its salvage ma­ out and secured, they served as sun shades terials were used in the construction of the and let in extra light and fresh air and also bath house at Roosevelt Park in Devils were a protection in case of rain. These Lake. "flies" when closed completely sealed the The Oakwood Hotel was completely re­ building from winter weather. novated and painted for the 1900 season. A carbide plant furnished gas lights for Water pressure and sewer systems were in­ illumination in the auditorium. They were stalled which included a 120 barrel water turned on for the first time the evening of tank on the top of the building connected June 17, 1900.

TAYLORS Rodger & Cindy Wetzel COAST TO COAST & Family 308 -4th St.

Devils Lake, N. D. HAPPY BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

-54 The stage curtain, which was operated evening's entertainment for the two nights from a large roller, was painted by artist of the play. A. E. Hurt, a professional in this line of Saturday, July 1, was the opening of work. July5, 1901 Fred G. Glaston paint­ the 1 900Chautauqua session. F. W. Mann ed scenes to fit any occasion for use on the who was in charge of decorations had the stage. auditorium decked out with flags and many On June 28 the new piano was moved yardsof bunting. This session was to begin from the Getts Furniture Store in the city with the Old Settlers barbecue at noon, to the auditorium. That fall the Associa­ but due to rain it was postponed to 2:30 tion decided to sell this instrument. Henry p.m . At this gathering the first officers of Bakerof Garske was the lucky bidder. This a permanent Old Settlers organization were Kingsbury Grand, in good condition in elected. They were: Frank Prosser, presi­ 1976, is the property of his daughter Kath­ dent, Devils Lake; James Brooks, Cando, leen, Mrs. Joe Connor, Devils Lake. 1st vice president; C . M. Wagner, Rolette, There were behavior regulations for 2nd vice president; David Benniger, Benson those attending Chautauqua. In the aud­ County, 3rd vice president; Henry Hale, itorium, peanuts, popcorn, smoking orany- Devils Lake, secretary; and David Mc- thingdoneto interfere with platform exer­ Canna, Cando, treasurer. cises were not al lowed. The Chautauquas A crowd of 5,000 was on hand for the were very religious and no Sunday applause July 4th celebration. Hon. JohnF. Fin- was permitted. People would express their nerty of Chicago gave the day's address on appreciation to a Sunday program number "Washington and the American Indepen­ by waving a white handkerchief. Reliable dence. "The Modern Woodmen of America officers patrolled the grounds and it was sponsored a log rolling contest fora part their duty to enforce the rules. Anyone of the days program. The Indian Band was found guilty of unlawfully gaining admit­ on hand for three concerts this day and tance to the grounds was subject to penalty throughout the session. One of their eve­ of the law. Profanity, unbecoming and ning concerts was played from the roof of disorderly conduct subjected the offender the auditorium. to expulsion from the grounds. Another first this year was the appear­ To add to the gala 1900 year, Captain ance of a group of Devils Lake and Chau­ Heerman had his steam launch, Maria tauqua people who presented rhe play "Ad­ Theresa, all decked out as a formidable ventures of Callaghan", from which they warship with wooden gun. The launch was took the name of the O'Callaghans as their used for small excursions in the Rock Island company name. Each year succeeding (Creel Bay), a trip of several miles at 25c; 1923, the O'Callaghans presented plays per person. in the city and once a year at Chautau­ On Wednesday, June 27, the Manning qua . Funds from their presentations went to Col lege Players of Minneapol is arrived by help sponsor the Devils Lake Carnegie train in Devils Lake. The Chautauqua Library this year. Their object was to help train, with one coach and one baggage charitable projects and they raised thou- car, pulled up to meet them and they were sandsof dollars for such purposes. Through transported directly to their quarters at their years some seventy local people, dir­ Chautauqua grounds. Thursday evening ected by Edward E. Flynn, had parts in June 28, 1900 was the first formal opening 34 plays. Hundreds of dollars earned by of the new auditorium when this company these players even went over seas in World of 45 talented young ladies presented War I to provide clothing, cigarettes, Shakespeare's "Midsummer Night's tobacco and other things for American Dream . " Vaudeville specialitiesand a 26 doughboys in the muddy trenchesof France . piece Indian Boys' Band rounded out the Known living of the O'Callaghans are: Earl Wakefield Flight Service Aircraft Charter & Rental - Sales & Service - "Crop Care by Air" Air Ambulance Service Ph: 662-2827 Municipal Airport Devils Lake, N. D,

-55 Mann, C. Earl Martin, Lillian Wineman, For the several years it was operated, Harold Serumgard, Arthur Powell, Ger­ many hundreds of children and adults were trude Riordan, Maude Gray, HowardDeuell entertained by the capers of the animals in William Elmslie, Everett Duell, Elizabeth the zoo. Here was a collection of coons, Dostert, Inez Serumgard and Helen Hul- foxes, coyotes, squirrels and two bears. linger. This menagerie was located near the spot Women's DayatChautauqua of this sea­ where Captain Heerman established his first son was turned over to the State Federa­ Rock Island dock. The concrete pens for tion of Women's Clubs with Mrs. A. M. the bears are yet visible. The display was Powell as chairman. discontinued in the middle 1930's. The Association owned and maintained A stable was located southeast from the a store building. The first one of rather baseball park where as many as 75 teams poorer construction was located lower on could be accomodated in rented stalls. As the slope where now are the remains of the few automobiles operated in the earlier bear pit or pen. It was replaced by a much days of Chautauqua, people came in carts, larger U-shaped building in 1910 and lo­ buggies and wagons with teams. Johnie cated on higher ground. Spaces for bus­ Bell, whohada largelivery stable in Devils inesses in it were secured by concessions Lake, did a good business bringing and from the Association. Here, in the east taking people to and from the Chautauqua side, F. W. Mann and Sons operated a grounds. Also accomodated at the stable large grocery for many years. The south were milk cows brought by families who end of the building had an ice cream par­ camped for the summer. Arthur Powell re­ lor, the west side had a bakery where any members it was the job of the older children kind of baked goods was always on hand. (including himself) to tend to such chores, Abarber shop was also in this building . In that the familiescould have their own dairy 1924 a new building erected of bricks by products at hand. There were often twenty Edgar LaRue and George Thompson replaced milk cows there for the summer. the U-shaped wooden store. In much later The expense of camping on the Chau- years the postoffice was moved from the tauquagrounds waswithinthe reach of all. hotel into this store building, as was the The rickettothe grounds enabled its owner museum. John Ingwaldsonand Son operated to attend, without extra charge, all enter­ an upholstery shop as the last business in tainments in the auditorium. A non- the building inthel960's. It stands now transferrable family season ticket admitted vacant and boarded up. two adults and all children under 21 years. East from the store was Reids Ice Cream Family weekly tickets were $3.50. Adult store where they made their own ice cream single day tickets were 35$. Adult season products. Griffords operated a restaurant tickets were $4.00, while an adult weekly nearby. Herman Huesgen Sr. had a souvenir ticket cost $2.00. Children over ten and store. Earl Mann told of these stores and under 20 years of age were charged daily how he worked all summer for his father at 35$ or per season $2.00. Persons under F. W. Mann in their Chautauqua store for 21 if married were not entitled to admis­ $12.50, "a tidy sum in those days. " sion under a parents' ticket. Adance pavillion and roller derby rink The Association owned hundreds of tents located near the beach south from the hotel made of heaviest white duck material which operated for many years. This building were set up for the visitors. A 10 x 10 tent burned in the 1920's. A later and last dance rented for $2.50 per week or $6.00 per floor was an open type, circled by a string session. Tent sizes ranged up to 10 x 20 of electric lights which drew all kinds of feet. Prices for this large size rented for evening insects to plague the dancers. This $4.50 per week and $10.00 per season. structure is gone now too. Wooden tent floors could be rented for LAKE CHEVROLET, INC.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

Ph: 662-4017 3rd Ave. & 5th St. Devils Lake

56 - $2.00 to $2.50 according to the size wanted auditorium, the little ones could be left for the session. These prices are quoted in her care with every assurance that they from the 1902 Chautauqua program booklet would be properly looked after. and were quite consistant throughout the The playground with its slides, swings years of the Devils Lake Chautauqua. and teeter boards was a place where the There was no charge for ground space younger folks found innocent and harmless fo campers bringing their own tents. amusement provided for them. A large Campers brought theirownbedding, towels, merry-go-round was located between the dishesandcooking utensils, etc. although ball park and Gifford's cafe. juchequipment and cots, springs and mat­ The kindergarten was operated during tresses, gas stoves, tables and chairs were the entire Chautauqua session by the As­ available for rent at town stores. Hammocks sociation. Class hours were from 9:00 to were for sale only. Straw, if available, 12:00 noon each morning. No tuition was was free to those who brought their own charged, but a small fee was collected for ticks. When the hundreds of tents were set cost of materials used. With the services up, the grounds took on the look of a Great of the nursery, playgrounds and kinder­ White City. garten, parents were much relieved by this Dining halls on the grounds were well familycare so they could enjoy more their prepared to feed as many as 20,000 people stay at Chautauqua. daily, served European style. Rates at the Boys' and Girls' clubs were organized Oakwood Hotel were 50$ per night and and supervised by specially trained person­ $15.00 for the season. nel that these age groups would be gain­ fully cared for. A Devils Lake chapter of Bells were rung to indicate the hour of of the State Audubon Society was formed exercises on the grounds, also, they were during the Chautauqua session in 1907. It rung at eleven o'clock p.m . after which broughtmuch interest to the boys and girls. no Toud talking or any act to disturb the The Society adopted the slogan of "No peace of the campers was allowed until six Birds, No Fruit, No Forest, No Rivers... o'clock in the morning . Then What." The sale of season tickets to Chautauqua From the beginning of Chautauqua on sessions was opened first to the c ity of Devils Rock Island numerous cottages were built Lake and continued for about one week by families for their summer-outing homes. after which time the sale was thrown open to Thecottageof the Albert M. Powell family an outlying area of about 100 miles radius. was the first built there, according to their One might ask, "How was the Chau­ son Arthur. Many people especially from tauqua financed?" There was no govern­ the Lake Region, farmers and merchants, ment subsidy. It was supported strictly had summer cottages there. The early ones by the people through their purchases of ranged in cost of $300 to $1,500. Built of entrance feesand season tickets. There was poorer construction at first, many were only one way into the grounds, that by gradually replaced with permanent homes or the lake shore road to the entrance gate. improved. Now the area has many modern There was no Military Grounds road around homes. the place like now. A barbed wire fence Roads were a problem in this area for was across the entrance where three or four many years. When it rained and your men met the people at the gate to get their wagon, buggy or car got stuck, you just admission fees. got out and pushed for all you were good The nursery was a feature of great ap­ for, relates Arthur Powell. With the coming peal to all mothers of little folks. A com­ of the automobile better roads were a must. petent nurse was in charge of this depart­ When people started coming to Chautauqua ment and during entertainments in the in cars there just had to be a safe place SCHWAN WHOLESALE CO.

-PROGRESSING WITH THE BICENTENNIAL SPIRIT-

Ph: 662-4981 221 S. Third St. Devils Lake, N. D,

-57 park them so the Association prepared a in 1906, 23 inning tie-game at Chautau­ special fenced area . Here a special police­ qua bal I park. man was on duty to protect them. Main­ Mrs. Carrie Nation, made famous by taining a good road to Chautauqua- her "hatchet raid "upon the Kansas saloons, Lakewoodtook endless work as most of the was the 1903 featured speaker. 1905 and road was on what had been actually old 1 918, Will iam Jennings Bryant, a magnetic lake bottom . In 1 938 a good grade was put leader in thought and politics and twice in and graveled. But the traveling surface candidate for United States President, would not hold up to the traffic. Ernie brought large crowds. In 1918 he stood on Hagen, Ramsey County road engineer, a farmer's wagon in the Ball Park to deliver stated that this road had to be regraded, his address to the 15,000 who came to hear using a box car of salt worked in to try to him. 1906 and again in 1 908 Dr. J . H . stabilize its surface. This did not solve the Worst, president of North Dakota Agricul­ problem so the county decided to black-top tural College was the July 4th speaker. the road. This was done in 1952 and was 1907, Albert J. Cummins, governor of the first such surfaced road in Ramsey Iowa spoke on "Reform and Reformer. " July County and was designated as B No. 1 . 3, 1907, Hon. Smith Stimmel first presi­ People along the route subscribed funds to dent of the North Dakota Chautauqua, help in the project. spoke on "Personal Reminiscences of Abra­ School opened in the Rock Island area ham Lincoln", for he was one of Lincoln's April 2, 1894with Stella Jacobs as teacher body guards. Governor John Burke of at a salary of $35.00 per month. School North Dakota gave the July 4th oration in operated here, later called School No. 2, 1907. until the end of the 1944-45 term. Roberta On July 14, 1908 a Durum Wheat Con­ Cockrane was the last teacher. After this vention was held in conjunction with the time children from the area were bussed to Chautauqua session. Durum wheat, a newer the Devils Lake city schools. crop here then, had been mixed with other Outstanding entertainers hired for wheats and when ground it made very poor Chautauqua included local musicians: breadflour. Attention was being called by Miss Mary Cairns, a graduate of Oberlin this convention that legislation be enacted College, Ohio and Columbia School of to compel millers to label such flour "Durum Music, Chicago, served as Chautauqua Flour." accompanist for several years. The family On July 3, 1920 William HowardTaft, of Professor W. E. Peck, Cando, N. D. only living ex-president of the United was on hand in 1908 to furnish three con­ States, spoke on the World's Greatest and certs daily for the entire session. This Gravest Problems. group of nine players, with twelve years Featured speaker in 1903 and 1904 was of experience playing for large gatherings Hon. Robert LaFollette, governor of Wis­ in the state, was the only uniformed or­ consin. In 1921 the Sunday, July 10 chestra in North Dakota at that time. speaker was Ruth Bryan Owens, daughter There were Nerhaugens' Orchestra and of the famous 'Commoner", and a world the Devils Lake Boys' Band, two local traveler. groups, who often played in the 1920's at The Devils Lake Postmaster provided Chautauqua session programs. the following information about postal ser­ Baseball was a most favorite sport and vice at Chautauqua. Enclosed are copies entertainment in the hey-days of Chau­ of National Archives records regarding the tauqua. Games were played nearly every post office, lam unable to determine when afternoon following the auditorium pro­ the post office at Lakewood wasestablished. grams. The longest game in state history The latest document I can find indicating was when Devils Lake and Fargo played the last days of operation of the Lakewood

ROYAL LANES & 2 SPOT CAFE

PROUD TO BE A PART OF AMERICA'S 200th ANNIVERSARY

Highway 2 East Devils Lake, N. D,

58 - post office seems to be April 1, 1939, so candyand ice cream for the benefit of the it is possible that it was closed about that soldiers. " time. " The Christian Scientists maintained a A March 18, 1931 Devils Lake building on the Chautauqua grounds for newspaper provides this information, writ­ their Reading Room one block north of the ten by Mrs. S. B. Barr of Lakewood Park. auditorium. This congregation was very "Beginning April 1, 1931 the North Chau­ active in the early days of Chautauqua. tauqua, N. D. post office will cease to The Women's Christian Temperance exist under its present name . The new name Union held itsannual state institutes during is "Lakewood Park". North Chautauqua the Chautauqua sessions here. W.C.T.U. was established in 1882, to supply the Day was part of the Chautauqua program. hundreds of people who lived at Chautau­ Rev. and Mrs. D. E. Baldwin were among qua, with their mail. In early years the the pioneers of North Dakota, serving on post office operated only a few weeks; different charges of the Methodist Epis­ never over two months Each season the copal church. They were tireless in their length of time gradua ly lengthened and effort to build up a Christian community. for the past 12 years the office has been In 1902 they gave their large residence on operating for six months each summer, or from April 1 to September 30 inclusive. the Chautauqua grounds to the Union. It Chilton Powell now has the contract as was named "Baldwin Cottage", and served • I mml carrier from the city psst of- as a local hall for the W.C.T.U. fPeC' hnvrlna °°ken the contract July 1 The Modern Woodsmen of America has ,ce, having^ NeMie A. Barr (Mrs. S. for its object: the promotion of the interests of woodcraft. This group held its state B^BaS is'the postmaster She received her meeting in conjunction with the Chautau­ appointment in August 1917 K qua sessions for quite a few early years. M |H A Samuelson in Florida writes They secured ground north of and up the that her "Mother (Mrs. Barr) was postmis­ slope from the "later bear pit site." In tress of North Chautauqua, later Lake- 1902 the laying of the cornerstone took wood for over twenty years, until there place for a 40 x 80 three story building. were enough year-round residents at Lake- A nine foot deep concrete basement was wood to enable us to get a rural mail completed. Earl Mann said, "In later years route When the old buildings were torn this basement was finally filled in. The down'and the new store building put up, wheel-house of the Minnie H ., which had Mother had her Post Office in that for two served as a playhouse for Captain Heer- or three years. Then they bought the house man'sgrandchildrenon his city home back just north of the store and built a room on yard, was moved back to Rock Island from the back for the Post Office." whence it came and was placed on part of "Before that MotherandDad had a milk the Woodsmen building foundation. It stood stand northof the old restaurant during the there several years until about four years Chautauqua season. She and my brother, ago when this wheelhouse was completely George, and I slept in a tent pitched near destroyed by vandals. " the playgrounds and Dad and my older A Biological Station was provided for brother, Donald, took care of the farm byanact of the 1909 North Dakota legis­ about half way between Devils Lake and lature forthe purpose of studying the waters Chautauqua and brought us the milk by of Devils Lake, particularly with reference horse and buggy every morning. In 1917, tofish life in the lake and the possibilities when the National Guard was in special of restocking it with fish. The station was training at Camp Grafton for service in under jurisdiction of the University at World War I, we kept our stand open all Grand Forks and Dr. M. A. Brannon as summer and added soft drinks, popcorn, head of the U.N.D. Biology Department

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59 was in 1 909 made director of this biolog­ the station in other hands progressed slowly ical project. He then spent the summers because of the fast receding water of the at the red brick station which was built lake and increased alkalinity. on the east shore of Creel Bay, North On October 23, 1920 Dr. R. T. Young Chautauqua, North Dakota. of Grand Forks spent several days at the In December of 1909, Alfred Eastgate, station where he made preparation for the who for some years had been the custodian care of a large shipment of fish which was of the government bird reserves at Stump received from Washington, D . C . Lake, wasappointedto collect specimens, The legislature finally repealed the ap­ in duplicate of every bird, waterfowl and propriation to the work and the project was mammal native to this state for the Univer­ abandoned. The Station Building became a sity and this biological station. museum for bird collections. Dr. Brannon set up fish pens within the In June of 1924 a bird collection was building and extending into the lake, purchased from W. H. Williams and Son of stocking them with fish from the Turtle Grafton. In August of 1924 sixteen more Mountain Hatchery. The fish were placed cases of mounted birds were placed in the first in fresh water, then in water mixed Biological Station Museum. Also included with the alkaline lake water, gradually by this time were several displays of acclimating them to full strength lake mounted animals. water in which the fish livedand apparently In May of 1932 plans were formulated thrived. They were then released into the toconvert the building, which had housed lake itself. the birdand animal collection and used by The scientific work done by Dean Bran­ the Boosters' Club, into a party and meet­ non on the fish life problem appeared well ing place of the Lakewood Park Improve­ on its way to success, when in 1914 he was ment Association. The mounted specimens elected president of the University of were then placed in a room at the north Idaho. side of the brick Chautauqua store. Following his departure, the work at The Biological Station is used in 1976 by the State Game and Fish Department as an office for their operations in this area. During the years of Chautauqua, special days were observed. If there was one day which more than any other entertained the visitors it was Indian Day, when as many as2,500ofthe native Sioux from Fort Tot­ ten Reservation would cross Chautauqua Bay from the west side in their boats. Some even came around on land in wagons with teams. They would pitch their tepees around the ball park. Dressed in native regalia they would present many ceremonial dances at the Chautauqua grounds. They had an excellent baseball team and two of these players, Perry Sessions and Bill Garner The University of North Dakota Bio­ were known to have gone on to play in the logical Station, located on Lakewood National Big League. Beach, was established in 1909. It's The Indian Boys' Band made its first now the northeast district office of regular annual appearance at Chautauqua the N. D. Game S Fish Department. in 1900 at the opening of the Grand New Auditorium, and throughout successive SEARS HAPPY BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

Ph: 662-2164 417 Fourth St. Devils Lake, N. D,

-60- years until about World War I. The first A crowd estimated between 8,000 and band had about 16 players. 10,000 gathered at Lakewood on July 4, In December of 1908, A. B. Dingle 1930. The Chautauqua auditorium was reorganized the band with 30 players from crammed to the doors several minutes be­ f he Sioux and Chippewa Tribes. These lads fore the 3:00 p.m. program at which Rev. V/ere educated then, eitherat the Industrial "Billy" Sunday spoke. He deplored the lack School at Fort Totten or by the Gray Nuns of Christianity in this country which he cit St. Michael's Mission. So rapid was accusedof materialism developed to a de­ fheir musical progress that they were fea­ gree which was dangerous to its civiliza­ tured at the North Dakota State Fair in tion. The Evangelist extol led the influence 1909. At Chautauqua they played two and of the church and of the christian mother three concerts daily. and used points to prove that neither was in The following were members of the 1910 evidence at that time. band:A. B. Dingle, director; M. M. Dor- On Sunday, August 14, 1932 U.S. eon, cornetist; Bert R.Betz, drum major; ; Senator Gerald P. Nye gave an address on John Montriel, Solomon Morin, Alfred "dollar wheat" at Chautauqua auditorium Jettie, Andrew Frederick, Patrick Jerome, to a capacity crowd. August 3 markets Joseph Langlie, W. A. Farris, Robert- quoted at the Farmers Mill in Devils Lake Bruce, Charles Dingle, Peter Wilkie, were: No. 1 Hard Wheat at 35$ per bushel, Daniel Monnette, John Laniry, Charles No. 1 Amber Durum at 29$ per bushel, Vivier, John Turcotte, Gregory Brien, flax at 75$, barley at 13$ and oats at 7$. Alexander St. Arneaud, John Decoteau, Produce quoted by Haig and Nimmo store Joseph Brien, Francis Delorme, Pascal was butter at 15$ per pound and eggs at LaFramboise, Michael Wilkie, Albert Tet- 11$ per dozen. Farmers were so depressed rault, Joseph Bercier, Patrick Hamley, by such income prices for their products Daniel Plante, Charles Blackbird, Fred that they were trying to organize a "stay McGillis, R. Bruce and Anthony Vanoss. home -— buy nothing" movement. Several of these players became part of the Devils Lake Otter Tail Power Company relational Million Dollar Band. researched their records in Fergus Falls, The Great Northern Railroad granted Minnesota and sent this information - that special ratesforChautauquaguests to make High-line electric power was first turned excursion days to Minot, Cando, Langdon, on to Lakewood lines in June 1928. Cooperstown, Carrington, Park River, The year 1929 was the last Chautauqua Bottineau, Rugby, Edmore with stops at sessions held here on Rock Island- intermediate points where residents living Lakewood, according to the Devils Lake there permitted to board these excursion World, June 27. That five day session trains for the trip. opened July 1 with an evening program The Chautauqua Association made a entitled "A Night in Hawaii". The next special rate for session admission of $2.00 day had an afternoon 1929 Review and in to the North Dakota teachers. In addition the evening there was a musical sketch, to this favor, the railroad also granted an address — "The Inexcusable Lie", and special travel rates that all accredited exhibitions by Private Peat. A harmonic teachers in the state might spend two or three weeks of their vacations at Chautau­ concert, costumed songs from the Vagabond qua. The State Press Association very often King, and a lecture recital "Ben Hur" by held its state meeting at Chautauqua. Much Arthur MacMurray made up the afternoon of the success of the Chautauqua Associa­ program of the third day. Its evening pro­ tion was due to the many kind words given gram was a feature number from Broadway. it by the members of the press in their col­ The July 4th afternoon program included umns. songs of the Steppes and Russian Rivers by

Jim Erickson Photography

IN A WORD, PROFESSIONAL

Ph: 662-2719 521 -6th St. Devils Lake, N. D.

61 the Cossack chorus, and the "Main Street Band and the Fire trucks formed a parade Smile" program by Laura Forbes. The Rus­ through the Devils Lake streets and then sian chorus appeared again in the evening went to Lakewood Park where the afternoon pageant assisted by Miss Forbes. A lecture, program was held. A barbeque supper was "Attitudes and Visibility, " was given by served at 5:30 p.m. Featured in the eve­ Judge George A. Alden. The afternoon of ning program was a concert by massed the last day, Smith Damron gave a demon­ bands from the six Canadian towns. stration of pottery making. "The Detour", From the July 12, 1939 Devils Lake a comedy success, was presented in the World: "Two hardy, young, shapely ever­ evening as the final offering of that day greens stand today on the Chautauqua and of the Chautauqua season. Auditorium grounds in Lakewood Park as a All the attractions were purchased from lasting memorial to Edgar LaRue and the the Associated Chautauqua of America Lakewood Booster's Club. Association the fall before, announced Mr. and Mrs. H . A. Samuelson, former­ Edgar LaRue, Chautauqua director. ly of Lakewood, donated the trees from County graduation exercises were held their own garden. These two trees now in the Chautauqua auditorium June 5, (1976) stand about 30 feet tall in stately 1931 when one hundred and fifty three honor of Mr. LaRue and the Booster Club. diplomas were awarded to the students. About 1937 the Assembly of God con­ Earl Parson, deputy State Superintendent gregation began holding meetings on Chau­ of Schools, was the principal speaker. tauqua grounds and used the auditorium for Anna McLean Rother, Ramsey County church services. They operated a four year Superintendent of Schools presented tne ministerial college at Chautauqua under a class and diplomas were given by E. J. land lease agreement for several years, Burke of Edmore, president of the School until 1962 when the Park Board opened up Officers Association. the sale of lots in Lakewood Park and the A crowd of 2,500 persons was at Lake- congregation purchased camp grounds at wood Park May 21, 1932 to witness and the east side of the early Chautauqua compete in Ramsey County's annual play grounds. day when 71 schools took part. Sweep­ stakes cups were awarded to Webster School for classA schools and to Highland Center for class B schools. Pauline Shepp of Lake Consolidated school won the spelling con­ test and the right to represent the county in the state spelling contest later in the summer. In 1938 the Lakewood Park Improvement Association, H. A. Samuelson president, had a series of Sunday programs planned fortheweekof July 4th devoted to revival of the old time Chautauqua. The highlight of the Chautauqua week came on July 6th when the Association was host to 500Can- adians for the First Dominion Day. Bob McKay and Mr. Samuelson made a good­ will trip to six different towns in Canada the week before inviting them to come to These are the two evergreen trees Chautauqua. TheCanadianguests, escorted planted in 1939 in honor of Edgar by Mayor W. E. Hocking, the Devils Lake LaRue and the Lakewood Booster Club. Marv & Leo's Red Owl

HAPPY 200th BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

Holiday Mall Shopping Center Devils Lake, N. D,

62 The Assembly of God has erected many On July 6, 1920 the Chautauqua As­ large buildings on their assembly grounds sociation granted to the City of Devils where at present a summer Bible camp is Lake all of its tracts or parcels of land and held. The college has been moved to buildings thereon described as (numerous) Ellendale to the former Ellendale State lots and to 100 feet south and 100 feet Normal, which the Assembly has purchased. north from center of the dock known as September 21, 1940 a group of twelve Heerman's Landing for consideration of ladies met at the home of Mrs. Dr. M. O. $20,000. The Woodland edition was ex­ Sauer in Lakewood Park to organize a cluded from this transfer. The City of Homemakers Club. Mrs. H. A. Samuelson Devils Lake accepted the property for park was elected president and Mrs. Ed Wilcox, purposes. Jr. elected secretary. Today in 1976 these two ladies are the only living charter mem­ On July 26, 1949 the Chautauqua As­ bers. The 1976 officers are Mrs. Milton sociation sold all the balance of its prop­ Knaarberg, Sr., president; Mrs. Joe Con­ erties to the Devils Lake City. The End of nor, treasurer and Mrs. Joe Cordner, sec­ an Era. retary. The Last Curtain Ca

"A landmark at Lakewood Park, familiar rible dry cycle practically dried up our to thousands when Devils Lake was in its beautiful Devils Lake. hey-dayas a summer resort, was destroyed It was stated by the Department of the when heavy snow caused the collapse of Interior: "Devils Lake covered an area of the roof on the Grand Auditorium, built about 90,000 acres in 1867 when the lake in 1900 for the Chautauqua seasons. water level was recorded at 1,438.4 feet, Park Board officials, who visited the but it had shrunk to 6,000 acres by 1 941 . building Saturday said the building will be The lake's lowest elevation came in 1940 good only for salvage. It had not been at 1,400.9 feet." used during the past few years although At this time Creel Bay was so dried up the Assembly of God had used it for their that all the fish life was dead. People summercampmeetings until they built their could even walk across the bay. Native own auditorium on the grounds. deer would often get stuck in the muddy The roof furnished a water supply as bottom. Mrs. Marie Frank, a long time rain water was collected in four connect­ resident, told me during an interview ing cisterns, each with a capacity of 210 March 12, 1976, about a visitor at Lake- barrels. George Thompson, who lives at wood who had taken a walk on the sandy Lakewood, said he was contractor for the bay bed in the driest time and came upon cisterns and enlarged them from a single a large group of buffalo skulls in the sand cistern at least 25 years ago. The area had and all were pointing the same direction. a seven inch snow fall last week and the Could it be those mighty animals died in a roof (in a weakened condition) collapsed winter storm as they tried to cross the bay with a loud crash Saturday noon May 6, on the ice and snow? Or was the lake so 1950. " (from Devils Lake Daily Journal) dry some other century that they died on In the summer of 1 954 a new system of the dry bottom from a greater calamity? street numbering was worked out by prop­ The idea of diverting Missouri River erty owners at Lakewood in an effort to waters to replenish Devils Lake was a hope help direct visitors. Since the building of of Captain Heerman even in 1899. With the new lakeshore road, many strangers waters steadily receeding, serious thought missed the park entirely or had much dif­ was given and action started in 1924 at a ficulty in finding a particular place in the service club meeting at the Devils Lake park. V. R. Youfl, district manager of the Town and Country Club. Sivert W. Thomp­ Central Telephone Company, which served son, already a civic minded leader, was the area, made a new map of the grounds elected chairman of the first committee to and assisted property owners in the num­ pursue the project of Missouri River Diver­ bering project, the first since 1889. sion. He died in October 1962 at age 73, Familiar sports were revived in 1950 on after having given the best years of his life Creel Bay waters, the first since the ter­ to this work without seeing his dream come

63 - true. Each year water diversion is nearer A first yacht club was active from 1910 Devils Lake since the construction of the to about 1 927. Due to the drying up of the Garrison Dam years ago, work progresses bay waters, this group disbanded. How­ on the McClusky Canal towards Devils ever, when the waters rose in 1 950 and Lake. 1957, a new group called Devils Lake Heavy spring run-offs starting in the Yacht and BoatClub organized and revived late 1 940's began to bring water into Creel interests in water sports. In 1956 the or­ Bay at Rock Island. This past year, (1975) ganization presented its first annual water saw the lake level at its highest since the carnival. "Early Days". To this came 43 entries from the Bemidji, Devils Lake's water shed area received Minnesota Boat Club. An acrobatics show excessive precipitation of snow and rains was put on by the Bemidji Paul Bunyon in 1950 and 1957 to boost the lake level Troupe before a large crowd at Lakewood with flood waters. Succeeding years have beach. In more recent years, aquanauts, brought continued spring floods in the area accomplished water skiiers from a local and more water into the lake. club have put on their own acrobatic shows June 5, 1956 some 50,000 northern on the waters of Creel Bay. pike fingerlings measuring less than two On March 11, 1976 a North Dakota inches long were dumped into Creel Bay Chautauqua Association was formally or­ waters by the State Game and Fish Depart­ ganized for the Devils Lake area. Named ment biologists. They were trucked here and signing the Festival Committee Articles from a hatchery at Valley City. of Incorporation were: Morris Barks, Mrs. In early summer of 1967 another ship­ Hans Trangsrud, Mrs. L. A. Braunagel, ment of over 200,000 two inch northern Mrs. Lloyd Jones, Mrs. Ed Wilcox, Jr., pike were planted into Creel Bay. On Rodger Wetzel, Kent Jonesand Mrs. Morris June 5, 1969, 41,700 pike fingerlings Barks. were planted there. By this time the 1967 The 1976 Chautauqua activities will fish were about 24 incnes long, according take place at Camp Grafton, Assembly of to the Department. Since then other vari- God Grounds and once again at Old ties of fish have been planted in the bay Chautauqua - Lakewood Park. and lake. Fishing now has become a daily sport during the open season and Creel Bay Credit for some of the preceding infor­ beaches are lined with fishermen of all mation should be given to: Devils Lake ages, especially on a summer holiday Journal, Grand Forks Herald, Devils Lake afternoon. World, Mrs. Marie Frank, Arthur Powell, A boat landing and parking lot on Lake- LillianWineman, Earl Mann, Mr. and Mrs. wood beach are marked off to accommo- Ed Wilcox, Devils Lake Park Board, Ernie dateall sorts of water sports equipment. A Hagen, Richard Berg, Ramsey County picnic area has been provided for the sum­ Superintendent of Schools - Caroline mer day campers. Home, Mr. and Mrs. H. A. Samuelson, Winter fishing is again a favorite pas­ Mrs. Charles Ranee, Mrs. Larry Heisler, time as it was in the 1880's when sleds full Mr.andMrs. T. J. Eide, Otter Tail Power of fish were brought home to salt or smoke Company, Mrs. Fred Ranee - Heritage for home use or shipping. Fish houses Center Tape Department, Grand Forks abound on the ice during the ice fishing Library, Harold Serumgard, Mrs. George season. Rout ier.

Holiday Mall Association

A COMPLETE SHOPPING CENTER UNDER ONE ROOF

Junction Highways 2 & 20 Devils Lake, N. D,

64- CHAPTER 4 The Steamboat "Minnie H" Near an elementary school on the south It is paraphrased and quoted from the cap­ edge of the city of Devils Lake stands a tain's own writing, "Tales of Hardships ", stone marker with a plaque bearing the the "Memories" of his grandson, Heerman inscription: J. Naugle, and various newspaper com-, "mis commemorates the landing of the ments. steamboat 'Minnie H'. Built and com­ Edward Edson Heermcn was born in manded by Captain E. E. Heerman, July Salem Pond, Orleans County, Vermont, 4, 1883". Erected by Lakewood Booster i April 18, 1834. A farm boy for sixteen Club, 1933. ' years, first in Vermont, later in Pennsyl­ The school is named for the steamboat; vania and finally in Burlington, Iowa, the steamboat landed where the school now Edward set out to seek his fortune on the stands; the marker indicates the erstwhile Mississippi River. Three years later he was shoreline of the waters of Devils Lake. in command of his own steamboat, the first Constructed in 1957, the school was of thirteen which he owned and operated appropriately named the "Minnie H" — on the Mississippi and Chippewa Rivers a rededication of the historical landmark with marked success for thirty years. as a part of the city's Diamond Jubilee Almost all of his boats were named in celebration. Now in 1976, the community one way or another for his only daughter, will pay tribute again to the late Captain Minnietta Heerman, later Mrs. Minnie H. Heermanand his steamer with the unveiling Naugle of Devils Lake, North Dakota. of a 40 foot replica of the "Minnie H." The railroads now making progress in during 'Chautauqua " week -a local proj­ the West, the captain looked for new lo­ ect for our national Bicentennial observ­ cations to transfer his steamboat activities. ance . On April 27, 1880, he sailed from St. Embodied in these memorials lies the Paul, Minnesota down the Mississippi River saga of Caption Heerman whose contribution to St. Louis, then up the Missouri River to to the development of the Lake Region was Fort Benton, Montana arriving there with a quarter of a century of steamboat navi­ a load of freight on July 4, 1880 - a dis­ gation, a unique epoch in the pioneer his­ tance of 4,200miles-thus completing the tory of North Dakota. longestcontinuoustripevermade on inland waters by steamboat. The story of the "Minnie H . " follows.

Captain E. E. Heerman (inset), owner-operator of the Minnie H Steamboat, shown with boat docked in background and buffalo bones on shore. This photo was taken in 1894 by a group traveling from Buffalo, N. Y. to Seattle, Wash., via Great Northern Steamships and Railways.

65 Asearlyas 1 858, he and five associates engine alive. I lost an overshoe and had interested in steamboat navigation on the townmen shovel in my place at $1 .00 an Red River of the North, had established a hour. The engine hadto go back for a snow townsite called East Burlington, seven plow, which came from Grand Forks. I miles south of Fargo, North Dakota. This walkedon to the end of the track, hungry, was a settlement burned and wiped out on the night of December 16, reaching during the Indian Massacre of 1862. Osbum's for the night. The engine got to Twenty years later he was back in North the end of the track at the same time. Five Dakota continuing his search for a new days were consumed in moving the train location since as he comments in his mem­ from Larimore to Bartlett. " oirs: "By 1882 steamboat passenger traffic on the Mississippi had given way to rail­ "The construction crew pulled off, and roads. " the eleven remaining carloads were left He tells of arriving in the Lake Region at Larimore, which was thirty-five or forty at Odessa on November 3, 1882 and con­ miles from where I built the Steamer "Min­ tinues with the story of the building of the nie H". All of this material was hauled ship. later by team, at great expense, to the "There was a stopping place at Odessa boatyard, in what is now Lakewood on the at the eastern end of the lake. Plenty of shores of Devils Lake. The first ton of hay town lots were available. The lake had I bought cost $45.00!; oats were $1.00 been partly frozen out from the shore, and per bushel; other things were in proportion. " the ice was about four inches thick, I "Aftergetting the three cars to Bartlett, think. The next day, I came further up I improvised a storage place and commenc­ the lake, where a town called Devils Lake ed to haul. Great quantities of snow fell. City had been laid out, about one mile There were no defined roads; we just drove north of the lake, and about two miles out over the great prairie, and we made east of where the city of Devils Lake is slow progress getting to the lake. " now situated. " "Purchasing a claim, I commenced to "On November 5, the snow all disap­ build a living place on the banks of the peared. I spent five days in all at the lake. I must say that was the coldest job lake. Devils Lake was a beautiful body of levergot into. The wind blew a gale neary water fringed with timber, and the local­ everyday, making it very hard and dreary. ity was dotted with other beautiful lakes. At times in building, ittookthree men to I examined the soil and believed I had fasten on a board; one to hold the board, foundanempire of undeveloped resources. one to hold the nail, and one to pound the The shores generally were not far from the nail. The snow drifted, piling up in great timber line, and the lake extended nearly drifts, and making it almost impossible to to where the depot of the city of Devils do much. We finally had a place to get Lake now is. On November 8 I returned into, and that was a happy night. We all to my home at Reads Landing, Minnesota, suffered great hardships, more than most sold everything I had; and on the twenty- folks will ever know. I was here two months seventh of November, made a contract for without one letter getting through from the making of the frame of the steamer home. " "Minnie H ", to be operated on Devils "On January 13, at Bartlett, we loaded Lake the Minnie H boiler which had been built- "I remained in Minnesota until every­ in Cincinnati and shipped here entirely thing was underway. My first shipments of new. January 15, we started out with the boat materials were made in November boiler. We increased our horse power to nine 1882. The total registered fourteen car­ span of horses, and used sticks under the loads. At that time the end of track was runners. For the first two days we made a beyond Larimore, and the railroad con­ distance of tenmiles, and the teams had to struction company was pushing grade on to scatter over the prairie for shelter or stable room. Many teams gave out. One evening Bartlett." Iguidedthe teams in the dark until we got "The first three carloads to arrive at to Steven's. The little home was already Larimore contained the machinery and the crowded, but they made room for us. The sawmill. We left Larimore, December 12, horses were crowded into the barn. During 1882, in a snowstorm, attempting to get the night the wind blew so hard through the first three carloads on to Bartlett. We the tiny cracks and crevices in the barn, had to shovel snow all night to keep the

66 that by morning the snow had drifted three "From the commencement of the build­ feet deep inside. " ing of the steamer, one might say in ad­ "The Pat Murphys took us in one night vance of any settlement, the newspapers and sheltered us. Two teams turned back, and the railroads did their part to boost and only three were left. On January 17, the settlement along ." we arrived at Rock Island, but without the "These were the hardships of my first boiler, we found it impossible to haul it in settlement in Devils Lake . As I said before, the deep snow and drifts. I then built a this was a wilderness, and I was sinking big stone boat, that would not turn over $35,000 in it. The boats were one of the in the big drifts. The result of this was best things for this country. The railroad that the teams could not pull it that way. had been extended to Devils Lake, and a I was finally able to procure a pair of log­ fine dock built not far from the depot at ging sleds. I transferred the load into the Devils Lake, with a railroad track out to big sleds, and I finally found four teams and alongside the steamboats, so that sufficient to haul it to the place of build­ freight could be unloaded from the cars to ing. We arrived there January 23, con­ the boats. A fine dock was also built at suming eleven days in removing the boiler Minnewaukan, where the Northern Pacific twenty miles by team . " connected at the other end of the lake. " "It took most of the winter to haul all "The first passenger train (on what is of the carloads left at Larimore. We would now the Great Northern Railroad) met the unloadthe material the best we could, and Minnie H on the Fourth of July 1883, and on our return would not find it until we brought an excursion including railroad had shoveled it out of the snow. One sled men, editors, and commercial men from load was never found. I waited and picked points in Dakota Territory and from St. my time, and did much better with the rest Paul. They had a fine day and a fine trip of the material than I had with the boiler. " which was enjoyed by all on board. Mr. Brown of the St. Paul firm of Brown and "I soon had the sawmill in operation. Tracywas on board. The fact that this was Everything sawed in the shape of slab or a new country to be settled made it more board was soon carried off. The most of my enjoyable than it would have been other­ good building lumber was shipped in from wise. Many a good write-up for the lake the Chippewa River country, but some of andthecountry came out of that trip. Many the shorter lengths I found in the timber similartrips were made later on in the same here. I sold a lot of lumber for claim interest, to bring people into this new shacks. We sawed all day, but at night wilderness. " there were no boards for anyone, although people were standing around wanting lum­ "For nearly thirty years I kept a record ber. I found the sawmill a great conven­ of the lake's water level. With the excep­ ience in building a steamboat in such a tion of a few years, the water level stead­ country as this was then, only a great ily fell. In the fall of 1889 the boats made prairie wilderness, opened to white set­ their last trip into Devils Lake. The water tlement just one year previous, in 1881 . " had receded so much that the boats there­ "About the twenty-ninth of January, after had to landatthe narrows of the bay, we hada living place where we could cook about one and one half miles from Devils and eat and sleep. It seemed very much Lake, and were never able to get back to different. We couldthen accomplish some­ town again. " thing more satisfactory." "The boats had done quite a business. "I hadprocureda good crew of caulkers Realizing the loss of water and landing, I from Milwaukee, and ship carpenters from undertook to see if it was not possible to Minnesota. The Minnie H was finished in turn the Mouse and Sheyenne Rivers into the late spring of 1883. Her dimensions Devils Lake in order to save the lake. A were 110 feet over all; beam 20 feet 6 in­ preliminary survey was made later, but ches; depth, 8 feet at the bow, and 7 2 feet because there was not sufficient business at the stern; 150 ton burden; and she drew to justify the expense the matter was drop­ 3^ feet of water. She could and did ac-' ped." comodate freight, U. S. mail, and pas- \ The time card for the Minnie H states sengers from Devils Lake to all points on her scheduled trips were as follows: the lake. She made two successful trial Leave Devils Lake, for Fort Totten, trips on July 2 and 3, 1883." / daily at 9:00 a.m.

67 ^•.fSt 'T. f*

,j' • * it * j • „, * —*iii a.

».<•'. Leave Fort Totten for Devils Lake, daily into gavels. Of special historical interest at 2:00 p.m. is the fact that this rudder was made of Leave Devils Lake for West End and native North Dakota oak. The reason for Minnewaukan at 4:00 p.m. on Tuesdays, this was that the sled load of materials Thursdays and Saturdays. which was lost and never recovered had Returning — Leave Minnewaukan for contained the lumber for the rudder. So, Devils Lake at 4:00 a. m . Wednesday, Fri­ since it was lost, Captain Heerman went days and Sundays. into the woods at what is now Lakewood For years, during the two weeks of and selected a native oak tree from which Chautauqua Season, she often carried as he fashioned timbers for the rudder. And much as 1,400 tons of freight and 3,000 from this rudder of native oak — many passengers to Fort Totten and other points years later—Captain Heerman had a gavel of interest on the lake. Over a period of made, to be presented to the first native many years Captain Heerman held exclu­ North Dakotan to be elected Governor of sively the mail contract to Fort Totten. North Dakota, Governor George Shafer. Later two other boats, the Rock Island, In the Governor's Mansion at Camp Graf­ and the Maria Theresa, were added to ton are furnishings made in part or in full from timbers taken from the hull of the handle the traffic. In addition to the reg­ Minnie H. ular schedule many excursions were made, some gratuitous, in the interest of various Diversion of river water into Devils organizations. Such were the Devils Lake Lake was a project conceived by Captain Cornet Band excursions of May 31, 1885, Heerman when first the water level began and August 25, 1885, and for the benefit to fall. In his later years, the 1920's, of the M. E. Church, August 13, 1885, with the revival of interest in this project, to name just a few. Captain Heerman had gavels made out of Many important personages visiting this this same native oak rudder, and through area traveled on the Minnie H. When the kind efforts of Sivert W. Thompson of General William Tecumseh Sherman came Devils Lake, had them presented to the fo visit Fort Totten in August of 1884, he, President of the United States, and to the his two daughters, and several friends Speakers of the House and the Senate. In traveled from Devils Lake to Fort Totten December 1956 a gavel was presented to on the Minnie H . retiring Governor Norman Brunsdale at a The Minnie H was in operation on Devils banquet in Devils Lake, honoring him for Lake every summer from July 4, 1883, his work in furthering water conservation until the fall of 1908. The water level of and diversion in North Dakota. the lake dropped steadily during this time with a corresponding decrease in the vol­ Captain Heerman passed away in Oc-\ ume of business. In the spring of 1909, tober, 1929, at the age of 95. It was in­ because of low water level and small in­ deed a satisfaction to him that his boats come from passenger traffic, Captain attractedtouristsand settlers, helped them Heerman, after careful consideration, find locations, provided many of them with decided to leave the boats permanently in means of earninga living, and were a great dry dock. The process of dismantling them aid in opening up the Lake Region to' thenbegan. The pilot house of the Minnie settlement. In a total of fifty-nine years H was moved to the yard of his home in of steamboating, Captain Heerman's record Devils Lake, where it provided a fine play­ shows no serious injury to passengers, and house for his grandchildren, and in later not one loss of life. His story is one of years for hisgreat grandchildren. The flag­ hardship and endurance, ingenuity and staff was placed in the yard in front of the skill, courageand faith; it exemplifies the house, where it stood many years. At pres­ type of man that settled this country and ent it is in the yard of the Pioneer Daugh­ helped immeasurably to make it what itis ters Museum Cabins at Fort Totten. The today. pilot wheel is in the State Historical Soc­ iety Building in Bismarck. The anchor is The following items are taken from the at the State Historical Society Building in Devils Lake newspapers. Bismarck also. The whistle is still in use, Devils Lake Journal — June 28, 1957: andblowsmanytimesa day, from the State The first edition of the Creel City Inter- School for the Deaf in Devils Lake. Most Ocean on April 7, 1883, included the fol­ of the wood of the rudder has been made lowing:

69 Captain Heerman of Read's Landing, printed in the Devils Lake Journal June Minnesota isbuilding a steamboat 125 feet 28, 1957: long by30feet wide to navigate the lake. "When stirred by winds Devils Lake is It will be fitted up with hot and cold bath treacherous and there are many days during rooms and will be constructed to carry both the summer when Captain Heerman will freight and passengers. not trust his stauch boat to make the trip An account of the arrival of the first across. One day last week a storm coming passenger train in Devils Lake, July4,1883, on suddenly after the boat had started, was reprinted in the Devils Lake Journal, caused the Captain to anchor and remain June 28, 1957, from the June 24,1933, until the next day, four miles from the Fort edition. It was originally carried in the Landing. " Great Northern Semaphore of November June 6, 1885 Captain E. E. Heerman 1927. "The Steamer Minnie H", with E. E. asked the board of commissioners to refund Heerman on the bridge, met the train and the tax assessed on the steamboat Minnie took the excursionists over to Fort Totten, H. The clerk was directed to draw a re­ where a grand military parade was put on to funding order for $144.50. July 7, 1885 entertain the guests of the conductors. A the board refused to allow reduction in thoroughly enjoyable day was the verdict valuation from $2,700.00 to $2,000.00 of all who had the good fortune to accom­ for 220 acres of land owned by Captain pany the excursion. The festivities lasted Heerman but the steamer Minnie H. was so long at Fort Totten that before they had reduced in value from $5,000.00 to finished, late in the evening, a storm came $4,000.00. up from the northwest, and the lake be­ From a Devils Lake Journal article, came so rough that Captain Heerman de­ 1937, entitled, "Motors which propelled cided to remain at the wharf instead of the Minnie H. across the waters of Devils risking the return to Devils Lake. While Lake junked as Scrap Iron. " Today sees the many of his passengers complained at the last pieces of saleable iron left from the delay and the inconvenience sustained steamer Minnie H. included in the car thereby, they thoroughly agreed with the loads of iron that are being shipped from Captain that there was another day com­ here to the east. The engines of the steamer ing, and that it was wise policy to wait were loaded with the rest of the old iron, forthatday. In other words, "Safety First" and sold for junk. was always Captain Heerman's slogan. The sale of those old engines marked From the Peru Indiana Republican re­ the end of a colorful era.

F. W. Mann S Son store at Chautauqua

Hotel Oakwood at Chautauqua

70 CHAPTER 5 Fort Totten

Eleven miles southwest of the town of Those who stayed were chased out by Devils Lake lies Fort Totten, a military Generals Sibley and Sully the following post of days gone by, and the Devils Lake spring. Sioux Reservation. The lake itself, how­ The Sibleyexpeditioncame tothe Devils ever, has been the heart of the region Lake area that summer of 1863, but found a region that historically has attracted only a hundred Metis families from the the white man as well as the Indian. Pembina area down on a hunting trip. The The earliest recorded visit of white men Sibley and Sully expeditions in the final to the Devils Lake area was made in 1839 outcome were successful in that the hostile by Jean Nicolette and John C . Fremont, Indians remained west of the Missouri who marked such spots as 'Chantee Hill", River. now known as Devils Heart. Afterthe civil warand as a result of the Chantee is the Sioux word for heart or Montana Gold discovery, a line of forts center of the region. They also marked were to be built across Dakota Territory lake Chicot and Wamduska, now known for protect ion of mail when it was taken to as Stump Lake. The Sioux words mean snake Montana and returned to St. Paul, Min­ or creeping thing. nesota. These forts were eventually: Fort The Minnesota Massacre marked the Totten, Fort Stevenson, Fort Buford, Fort beginning of the modern period of Fort Peck, and Fort Benton. Shortly after the Totten and the Devils Lake Sioux Reserva­ plans were developed for the line of forts, tion. When the various branches of the it was rumored that a group of hostile In­ Sioux tribes were gathered in southern dians were gathering near the region of Minnesota for their spring rations, they Devils Lake. General Sully, who was ended up waiting for them over the sum­ stationed at Fort Rice at the time, dis­ mer. When the rations did not come, the agreed with his commander who overruled Indians became restless and angry. After him and ordered him to the Devils Lake malcontents murdered a white family, some region. From Fort Snelling, near present of the Indians left the area, since they did day St. Paul, Minnesota, came Colonel not want to become involved in the out­ Carnahan, who was to meet General Sully break. They retreated and went to the area at the lake. Along with Col. Carnahan west of Devi Is Lake . was Major M. Von Minden, who was to

^T'-aUfifrV, Cavalry Square It

71 selecta site for a fort. Major Von Minden was made from wood taken from the heavy recommended that the site of a fort be two groves of trees found to the southeast of and a half miles west of Devils Heart, as the fort. The fort at that time was named there was a little lake with sweet water afterthe late Brevet Major General Joseph and no indication of salt or alkaline. This Gilbert Totten, engineer in the United lake had a sandy bottom and low banks. It States Army. was also recommended as there were springs As the fort furnished protection, the nearby, heavy and sufficient timber and a Northwest Fur Company sent an agent to fine meadow forgrazing horses. Major Von the Fort the same summer it was built. The Minden made an alternative selection company felt their agent would be the post which was eight and a half miles west of trader. General Terry, instead of appoint­ Devils Lake. ing the Northwest Fur Company agent, ap­ During this trip Col. Carnahan named pointed E . W. Brenner. UnderMr. Brenner's named Sully's Hill as he was waiting for direction the first store at the fort was es­ the General. Col. Carnahan never met tablished. In connection with this store, Sully there; but after waiting a time and located about one hundred and sixty feet not encountering any Indians, he returned southeast of the Fort, Mr. Brenner also to St. Paul. General Sully arrived after establisheda brewery, the first one in Da­ Col. Carnahan had left the area. kota Territory. Both brewery and store were On February 19, 1867, some Santee, maintained in rough log structures, the Yanktoni and Cut Head Sioux met at the brewerybuilding containing three rooms or District of Columbia and signed the treaty apartments. The north wall of the structure with the Federal Government for a reser­ now is part of the present Dakota Trading vation located south of the lake and con­ Post. The apparatus for the brewery con­ taining the same boundaries that the reser­ sisted of a great kettle, a mess tub, and a vation does today, about three hundred cooling tank. Ten barrels of beer could be and sixty square miles. These bands of brewed at a time. The brewing process Sioux were the Indians that had left Min­ took several days and generally occurred nesota in 1862, hoping to avoid any trouble once a week. As may be assumed, the beer with the United States Government. Their found a ready sale among the soldiers at leaders were Waanata, Left Bear and Little the fort. Fish. The primary purpose of Fort Totten was In the summer of 1867 General Alfred to protect the mail and other supplies tra­ Terry came to the region to construct the veling from Minnesota toMontana . Charles fort. Choosing not to use either site in Ruffe of Minneapolis secured a govern­ Major VonMinden's report, Terry selected ment contract to carry mail from Fort Ab- a site on the shore of the lake. With Gen­ ercrombie to Fort Benton, Mont. The prop­ eral Terry was the famous guide Pierre osed route ran from Fort Abercrombie to Bottineau and a large detachment of troops. Fort Ransom, then up the Sheyenne River In July, General Terry left a detachment across to Fort Totten, west from that post of troops behind and departed for Fort byway of the big bend of the Mouse River Stevenson. Shortly thereafter he returned to Fort Buford, through to Fort Peck and to Devils Lake with a company of troops onto Lake Benton. This was hoped to be a previously stationed at Fort Stevenson and permanent route with mail stations, fifty equipment for a sawmill. Immediately miles apart, each manned by two men, upon his return he started the construction whose duty it was to carry the mail to the of the fort, located eight hundred yards next station. It was planned that the mail north of the present site of the fort. couldgetthrough three times a week. This This fort was made entirely of wood and plan failed almost entirely, as the mail the buildingsenclosed a four-hundred-foot company could never get the mail farther square parade ground. Starting about than Fort Totten. This business venture twenty feet back from the north side was a failed during the winter of 1867-1868, stockade built of oak logs, from about when the mail service was turned over to twelve fo eighteen inches in thickness and the commander of each fort. eighteen feet high. On the south side of Since the mail had never gotten past the Fort between the magazine and black­ Fort Totten, Frank Palmer, employed by smith shop, was the sally or gate of en­ Charles Ruffe at Fort Peck, came to Fort trance, whichwasmade of heavy four-inch Totten to find out why Fort Peck had never planks. Of course, the timber for this fort" received any mail. When Palmer arrived

72 - at Fort Totten, he found out that the bus­ contract. It was soon found that the brick iness venture had failed and that he was would disentegrate on becoming wet, and unemployed. At that time Palmer took the entire Fort had to be painted to keep employment as post guide for the military the rain out. After the Fort was completed department. During the next several years the brick kiln was never operated again. mail was carried from Fort Totten to Fort The completed Fort accomodated four com­ Stevenson at irregular intervals, with no panies of soldiers and included the officers' way stations in between the two forts. quarters, the hospital, the magazine and Since the route from Fort Abercrombie to the storehouse. The cost of the buildings Fort Totten was relatively closer to civili­ was $106,365.37. These old buildings had zation, it was free from Indian troubles. walls two to three feet thick and were ar­ The summer the Fort was built there ranged in a square for protection. were no Indians in the vicinity. The com­ In 1871, at the recommendation of the mander of the Fort, Captain S. A. Wain- Indian agent at Sisseton, an Indian agent wright, sent agents to the Mouse River area was appointed at Fort Totten. He was Wil­ to invite the Indians to spend the winter at liam H . Forbes. When Forbes arrived with Fort Totten. The Indians sent back a small his two assistants, James McLaughlin and force of warriors to determine whether or George Faribault, there were no buildings not this invitation was made in good faith. for employees or for storage of supplies, but When the Indians arrived at the Fort, the the acting assistant quartermaster of Fort soldierscameoutto meet them and stacked Totten had offered the old log quarters for theirguns in a pile in front of the Indians. the use by the Indian Department during This gesture satisfied the Indians that the the winter. During that summer the Indians soldiers were friendly, and the Indians planted over one hundred acres and had began to settle on the Fort in small bands. one thousand five hundred bushels of corn, These Indians were in poor condition and five hundred bushels of potatoes, one thou­ were on the point of starvation. The com­ sand bushels of turnips and had cut^and manding officerat the Fort found it neces­ stacked two hundred tons of hay. In Sep­ sary to issue large quantities of rations to tember of that year the number of Indians these Indians during the first winter to pre­ was seven hundred and thirty-two. vent them from dying of hunger. In 1868, Major J. N. G. Whistler, the new com­ JamesMcLaughlin, who had come with mander of the Fort reported that the largest Forbes, was assigned as a blacksmith. Later numberof Indianswhohad received rations at Standing Rock Indian Reservation he at the post was six hundred and eighty- became one of the most famous Indian a- one. In 1870, J. W. Daniels, the agent gents of the United States Government. on the Sisseton Indian Agency, reported In September of 1872, Major Forbes that there were a total of five hundred and reported to the Indian Department th^t the forty Indians at Devils Lake including one largest numberof Indiansat the agency was hundred fifty-two men, one hundred seven hundred and twenty-five, and that forty-three women, and two hundred the wheat and oats crop had been destroyed forty-five children. During the summer of by the grasshoppers. The Indians had har­ 1870 the Indians raised two hundred vested two thousand bushels of corn, one seventy-six bushels of corn from seed fur­ thousand five hundred bushels of potatoes, nished by the agency. The corn was saved and had put up three hundred tons of hay. for winter consumption and for reseeding A sawmill andagrist mill run by a twenty- the next spring. All extra corn was sold to five horse power engine had been built, the Turtle Mountain Indian Reservation. andotheragency machinery had been pur­ By 1870 the soldiers quartered at the chased. Forbes also reported that fifty In­ Fort were moved to the new Fort, construc­ dians had adopted the citizens' dress. tion on which had begun in 1868. These The method of distributing rations to the permanent brick buildings were located at Indians in those early days has been adapted the present site of the Fort and are still to Indian customs of today. Every morning standing. Brick was made near the spot, at the residents of the reservation would ap­ a point just across the narrows east of the pear in front of their homes and receive original Fort. The clay used in the bricks their rations for the day. Today, during wascutfrom Sully's Hill. Lime was burned times of celebration, it is a part of custom from limestone boulders picked from the to have the entire family appear in front shore of the lake. The work was done by of their home to greet friends and visit.

-73 Aspects of the Indians' culture have al­ after recovered the herd and scattered the ways been encouraged, while other parts Indians, ending the scare resulting from of their culture have been suppressed. In the Battle of the Little Big Horn. 1871, Forbes, McLaughlin and Faribault Another time nerves became short was attempted to curb the ancient custom of when an Indian who was being tried for dancing among the Indians. As the policy murderattemptedtoescape and was shot to of the day was to attempt to assimilate the death by the guard. Nothing ever became Indian into the white culture, dancing, by of this incident, although it was felt by itself, was not frowned upon, but dancing the soldiersthat hostilities would be forth­ to supreme beings was discouraged. This coming . reform was very difficult for the agent to Many of the soldiers stationed at the establish, as the Indians encouraging the Fort led very interesting lives both before dancing were the influential Indians on their time at the Fort and after. One of the reservation. These Indians were also the most famous wasCol. H. M. Creel who the ones that objected to the Gray Nuns was instrumental in developing the town that were at St. Michael's Indian Mission. of Devils Lake. Another was Ed Lohnes, On one occasion the Indians had sched­ an early day mail carrier, who later lived uled the Medicine Dance to be given by at Crary and became a state legislator. Beautiful-voice-at-the-water. Everything Thomas R. P. Morris (the R. P. stands for was scheduled, but government officials Rolling Phoenix, the ship he was born on succeeded in breaking it up. Beaufiful- in the Indian Ocean), who enlisted in the voice-at-the-water was offended and dis­ United States Army in the early 1850's, appointed in not being able to perform his fought in the Civil War and many of the dance, so much so that he went to the Indian Wars of the West, coming to Fort Turtle Mountains to console himself for the Totten in 1870. He retired from the U. S. interruption. When after a long time he Army in 1885 and died in Warwick, N . D.. came back and held a council, many gov­ in 1918. ernment people were afraid; but Faribault, William Larrabee was one of the most who had been instrumental in breaking up interesting. After going AWOL from the the earlier dance, realized what was hap­ 7th Cavalry and being sentenced to jail, pening. The result for the Fort officials he was given the option of staying in jail was a happy one, as dances from that time and one day returning to his outfit or of on were unknown, and performed only as being bannished to the prairie. Larrabee things of the past. decidedonthe latter, and became the first The soldiers had very little to fear from known settler in what is now Foster County. the hostile Indians of the area. The only Larrabee made the right choice, for it was scare that the Fort experienced was after his outfit that was totally destroyed in 1876 the Custer Massacre of 1876, when the at the Battle of the Little Big Horn. powder house was well stocked with am­ Many other soldiers stayed on the Reser­ munition and all people of the post assem- vation, married and lived their lives there . bledand baracaded themselves in the Fort. Seme namescommon on the reservation that Little Fish and Waanata both offered as­ were at one time connected with the Fort sistance in case of attack from the hostile are McDonald, Cavanaugh, Murphy and Indians that might attack the Fort. The Blackbird. people of the Fort were especially nervous, In an attempt to develop the Indians on as the soldiers killed at the Battle of the the Devils Lake Sioux Reservation, Major Little Big Horn were well known to the Forbes encouraged education. He urged soldiers at the Fort, many of them having the Gray Nuns of Canada to come to Fort previously been stationed there. Another Tottenandestablisha school. The Indians, reason for the fright was that there were underthe direction of Major Forbes, made only thirty men of the 17th U. S. Infantry bricks from clay and with those erected a stationed at the Fort. These were hardly small school, fourteen by thirty feet, seven enough fo defend the Fort in case of Indian miles east of the Fort. This school became attack. One day a band of Cut Head Sioux known as the St. Michael's Indian Mission. from the west came to the Fort and attemp­ On October 27, 1874, four sisters arrived ted to capture the Fort's horses and mules, from Canada along with Miss Rose LaBelle, but an alarm was given, and a squad was who later became a nun, and Father Ben- set out in pursuit. The squad shortly there­ nin. In February of 1 883 this mission burned

74 - and was re-established in 1885, one-half The 1970's brought a new era to the mile northwest of Fort Totten. About one Devils Lake Sioux Reservation. For the hundred children attended this school. first time a facility opened that provided With the threat of any Indian uprising gainful employment for a large number of gone, the garrison at Fort Totten was pulled Indianson the reservation. This plant, the out, and the buildings were turned over to Devils Lake Sioux Manufacturing Plant, is the Department of the Interior, with the operated as a joint venture between the intent that they be used as an industrial tribe and the Brunswick Corporation, em­ school. At thistime the Mission School was ploying approximately three hundred em­ consolidated with the Industrial School ployees, seventy percent of which are and placed under the direction of Super­ Indians. intendent William F. Canfield. Education especially was revitalized. In 1915, the Turtle Mountain Indian In 1973 the Fort Totten High School opened, children were returned to their reservation, providing, after an absence of thirteen astheyfinally had a school located there. years, education on the reservation for The Fort Totten Industrial School was nigh school age students. This school now also a boarding school and was operated has approximately one hundred students in as such. The only exceptions to this were grades nine through twelve. the children who attended the Mission The Fort Totten Community College, School, which had reopened in 1926. In alsoknownas Little Hoop Community Col­ 1935 the Boarding School was closed at lege, was started in 1974. This college is Fort Totten and the children were trans­ affiliated with Lake Region JuniorCollege, ported to the school at St. Michael's Mis­ and the University of North Dakota. sion. In its stead a tuberculosis preven­ Overlooking the entire area, as it has torium was established as part of a five for the past one hundred years, is Fort year government experiment. In 1 939 the Totten. The Fort was turned over to the Preventorium was moved to St. Michael North Dakota State Historical Society for by this time known as the Little Flower preservation as an historical site, on Jan­ Mission. The high school and grade school uary 18, 1960. were re-established at Fort Totten and The white buildings of the Fort serve called the Fort Totten Community School. now as a tourist attraction, as a home for In 1960 the Fort Totten high school was the North Dakota Pioneer Daughters Mu­ discontinued because fire destroyed the seum, a wildlife display and as a center for building, and high school students were the Fort Totten Summer Theatre. Fort Tot­ forced togo to other schools in the area or ten is still the best preserved military post boarding schools. west of the Mississippi River.

A typical early day meat market

75 - As many as 2,500 native Sioux from Fort Totten attended Chautauqua to present ceremonial dances and take part in other ceremonies.

A. M. Powell and Belle Spiesman in office over Adams (Connelly Hardware) building, October 14, 1912.

76 - CHAPTER 6 The 7th Cavalry

In the opinionof Generals Sheridan and unpleasant and the mosquito plague during Hancock, Cavalry troops were essential for the summer months caused great hardship pushing the Northern Pacific Railroad to formenand animals. Troops on post during to completion. The Infantry could not cope summermonths practiced numerous maneu­ with the attacks by Indians on horse back. vers and drills. Vegetables were produced The arrival of Lt. Colonel Custer, com­ at the forts in abundance and these gardens manding the U. S. 7th Cavalry from the were of great importance and demonstrated south in the fall of 1873, formed part of what the country could be made to produce . the expedition seeking this northern rail­ Baseball was a favorite summer pastime. way route through Dakota Territory and a Gambling was common and liquor was fre­ campaign to bring the Indians to the reser­ quently obtained. Visiting clergy conduct­ vation. They were posted to Fort Abraham ed religious services in one of the barracks Lincoln. For the purpose of administration or officers' homes. of the frontier military system, the United In the summer of 1874, the 7th Cavalry States was divided into four major divisions. pulled out of Fort Lincoln, officially to (See map) We are concerned with the mil­ makea reconnaisance into the Black Hills, itary division of the Missouri commanded with the objective of establishing a mili­ by Lt. General Phil Sheridan. This division tary post there. Theyfoundgold in the next included departments of Missouri, Platte, two years. Gold hungry miners squatted on Dakota and Texas. The department of Da­ the Indian lands, trespassing upon Sioux kota was commanded by Brigidier General sacred placesanddisrupting the Indian way A . H . Terry and it incl uded all or parts of of life. This harassment of the Indians in­ Minnesota, North Dakota, South Dakota creased their hostility. The Cavalry was and Montana. In 1873 the posts in Min­ usedinan attempt to drive the miners out, nesota were Fort Snelling and Ripley; in but the more than a thousand gold hungry Dakota were Abercrombie, Wadsworth, miners that thundered into the Black Hills Totten, Pembina, Randall, Sully, Rice, forced the issue and in the end the army Stevenson, Buford, Seward and Abraham relented. The 7th Cavalry returned to post Lincoln. In Montana they were the Forts of in the fall of 1874. Shaw, Ellis, Benton and Camp Baker. The The North Dakota State Historical Soc­ route from Fort Abercrombie through Fort iety volume lists the 7th Cavalry in Fort Totten and Fort Stevenson to Fort Buford Totten as follows: became known as the Totten Trail. From D and I Company, October 1873 to time to time as the frontier moved, old October 1875. forts were abandoned and new posts estab­ LCompany, August 1875 to March 1876. lished. The posts of the frontier fulfilled E Company, October 1875 to March the needs of the frontier. 1876. Except for the campaign of Sully and L and E Company left Fort Totten in Sibley in 1863, 1864 and 1865, the army March 1876 to meet Custer at Fort Lincoln was on the defensive. The work of the army and then on to the Little Big Horn. There included the defending of the settlers, the they fought and died. several Indian agencies, keeping open C Company November 1876 to Novem­ stage routes and commercial trade, escorts ber 1878. for immigrant trains, surveying parties for F Company, November 1877 to May railroads, boundary commissions, and 1879. scientific purposes, giving assistance to KCompany, December 1878 to October civil authority to maintain law and order, 1882. in management of a reservation, or giving I Company, November 1880 to July aid to settlers. It was the soldier that 1887. showed where civilization could go and In October 1873 Lt. General Sheridan helped sustain it. The peacefulness of the reported survey of the Northern Boundary territory depended upon the number of line was progressing satisfactorily with I troops present on the posts. During the Company 7th Cavalry acting as escort to winter months life on the posts was most this northern bordercommission. It is prob-

77 - ablyatthistime that Lt. General Sheridan passed in review before General Terry and and his daughter were in the Devils Lake made their departure from the camp on the area. Rosebud. By strenuous marches Custer's The immediate cause for the campaign command reached the valley of one of the of 1876 was the order of December 6, 1875 branches of the Little Big Horn. They were issued by the Department of Interior to all now following a well-worn trail of the In­ Indianagencies asking that all Indians re­ dians and the troops realized the Indian port to a reservation on or before January camp was close at hand. The march con­ 31, 1876 or be regarded as hostile. Ac­ tinued and later in the morning of June cordingly, the authority to commence 25, 1876 a division of troops was made. operations againstthe hostilities was turned Reno took charge of Companies M, A ei the War °^ 7° Department and to General and G and Captain Bentenn took Com­ Sheridan's division commander on February r panies H, D and K. Lt. Colonel Custer 7, 1876. retained Companies C, L, I, F and E and General Terry left Fort Lincoln with also Company B under Captain McDougall several companies of Infantry and the 7th in the rear with the pack train. Cavalry May 17, 1876enroute to the mouth The Indians encampment on the Little of the Powder River. The command arrived Big Horn extended along the river about OUth f the Pow ? VQ-7? ° der River on June three miles. Besides the seven Sioux Na­ /, 1876 and established a supply camp. tions were the Cheyennes, from Nebraska f°L I , Mai0r Reno and six companies and Wyoming. The principal warrior chiefs of the 7th Cavalry made a scouting exped­ in the battle that commenced were Gall, ition and determined the Indians were in Crow King and Crazy Horse. Estimates of the locality of the Little Big Horn. up to three thousand warriors engaged in On June 21, 1876 on board the steamer battle. Sitting Bull was present in the vil­ Far West, anchored in the mouth of the lage but did not take part in the battle. Rosebud River, General Terry, Colonel Afterthe battle, Sitting Bull and followers Gibbon and Lt. Colonel George Custer fled to Canada. he Id a conference to draw out plans of the At 12:30 p.m. Major Reno received campaign. On the afternoon of June 22, orders from Custer's adjutant to charge the 1876, Custer, with one of his command of village . Re no crossed the river and charged twelve companies of the 7th Cavalry, toward the village which appeared about

I'.KHY CUSTER COLUMN MONTANA TERRITORY

J \ WYOMING TERRITORY *•* |

78 two miles ahead. The Indians that rode out night of July 5, 1876. The next morning to meet the charge became so numerous news of Custer's defeat was telegraphed that Reno feared of being surrounded and tothe worldbyj . M. Carnahan, telegraph ordered a retreat to the bluffs across the operator at Bismarck. The same day the river. Reno lost three officers and twenty- Bismarck Tribune printed a special sheet nine men in the retreat. Here he estab­ devoted to the battle. Many writers at­ lished a position. About six o'clock firing tempt to explain what caused Custer s was heard further down the river and was tragedy and opinions differ considerably. believed to be from Custer's companies. One of the most common explanations for An attempt was made to go out in the dir­ the defeat is that the troops were outnum­ ection of the firing but this was given up bered by the Indians. Faultycartridge cases and steps were taken to reinforce their that heated and stuck in the barrels of the position on the bluff. The anticipated carbines were listed as a contributing fac­ fight came at 2:30 a.m. on June 26, 1876 tor. By division of Custers command into and lasted until 2:00 p.m. June 27. The three partsgave the Indians further advan­ Indians fired the grassand behind this made tage outnumbering the soldiers. preparation for moving the village. Be- Immediately after Custer's defeat, Gen­ tween6and7p.m . they filed away toward eral Terry returned with the 7th Cavalry the Big Horn River. Custer's immediate to Fort Lincoln. Early in October General command was completely annihilated and Terry received orders to dismount and dis­ together with Reno's losses there were arm the Indians at Standing Rock and twelve officers and 247 enlisted men, 5 Cheyenne Agencies. The mission was com­ civilians, and 3 Indian scouts killed. Two pleted without firing a shot. The 7th Cav­ officers and 51 men were wounded. alry was back in post late in November, On the morning of June 27, General 1876 for the winter. Terry rode up with hisCavalry. The wound­ In May, 1877 the 7th Cavalry under ed of Reno's command were then taken to command of Colonel Sturgis left Fort Lin­ General Terry's camp at the mouth of the coln for the Yellowstone country. There Little Big Horn and taken aboard the they participated in some heavy fighting steamer Far West. From here they were against the Nez Perces during the month taken to Fort Lincoln. The steamboat Far September near Clark's Fork, Montana. West arrived with the wounded late on the On October 5, 1877 the Nez Perce under

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-79 Chief Joseph surrendered to Colonel Nel­ Squad Leader; Cpl. David Shelver, 3rd son A. Miles. When the 7th Cavalry re­ Squad Leader; Cpl. Craig Estenson, 4th turned to Fort Lincoln, they escorted the Squad Leader; Cpl. Lloyd Sykora, Team­ Nez Perces as prisoners of war as far as ster; Chief Scout, Joe Hawk; Private Wen­ Fort Lincoln. They arrived there December dell Anderson; Private Douglas Ketterling; 31, 1877. In July 1878 the Cavalry was Private Kenneth Hawks; Private Darrel sent into the Black Hills in South Dakota Walters; Private Paul Regan; Private Duane to keep it cleared of Indians. During the Nelson and Private Rodney Mattern. same year and 1879 telegraph lines were An auxiliary nurse corps of Company D built. Three companies of the 7th Cavalry has been organized by wives of D Company under Major Lewis Merrill gave protection Troopers and other interested young women. to the railroad construction crews. Membership is as follows: Lt. Pat Madson, After 1876 the military importance de­ Lt. Nicci Henke; Lt. Linda Gessner; Lt. clined rapidly. In June, 1882, the head­ Eloise Konzak; Lt. Doris Shelver; Lt. quarters of the 7th Cavalry was transferred Sandra Shelver; Lt. Margaret Konzak; Lt. from Fort Lincoln to Fort Meade. Elizabeth Konzak; Lt. Anita Konzak; Lt. Kytte Estenson and Lt. Gail Walters. In 1976 commemorative companies of the 7th Cavalry have been organized in a The Lake Region and Fort Totten are non-profit corporation whose purpose is to fast growing areas of tourist attraction. preserve the history of the 7th Cavalry in The historic sites are suited to a family Dakota Territory, and to promote the state looking fora holiday. The Pioneer Daugh­ of North Dakota and the United States. ter's Museum, located in the former Hos­ Recognition is due these soldiers who helped pital building at Cavalry Square, Fort promote and sustain the territory. Totten, houses a large col lection of articles whichgavea picture of pioneer life of the The following membership is listed in area . Otherbuildings house an Art Gallery, Company D of the 7th Cavalry of Devils a wildlife exhibit, a pioneer store, and Lake and Fort Totten :Captain Leo C . Kon- the Little Theatre. zak, Company Commander; Lt. Merle Acknowledgements: Volume 3, North Henke, Platoon Leader; 1st Sgt. Elmer Dakota State Historical Society, Libby Ketterling, Regimental Board Delegates; 1910. Sgt. Ted Shelver, Regimental Board Dele­ North Dakota History, North Dakota gate; Sgt. Marvin Madson, Mess Sargent; State Historical Society. Cpl. Greg Konzak, Guidon Bearer; Cpl. Time and Life Series - "Old West". Hal Estenson, Bugler; Cpl. Robert Possen, North Dakota R.E.C. Magazine - July 1st Squad Leader;Cpl. Stuart Gessner, 2nd 1974.

Pioneer Daughters Museum in Cavalry Square, Fort Totten

80 - CHAPTER 7 Graham's Island

The early settlers who chose this island file. Below is a list of the island's early location did so because of its timber. Here settlers: they found a place where life could be 1880-Octave LaRose, John C . Hunt­ sustained, a place where they could grow. er. The island's timber provided logs to build 1881 -H.E.Hoadly, Joseph Hoadley, their houses. It provided fuel for heating Orlin Burdick, Alfred LaRose, Mrs. Mary and cooking and gave their livestock a bit Rock, John Couture and John Young. of shelter. The appearance of Graham's 1882 —John Vanada, Oliver Anderson, Island has changed over the years to meet Louis Miller, David DeNoyer, Stephen the needs of the people. Most of that DeNoyer and James Michels. change has occurred during the last decade 1883 - Oziah W. Burdick, Girard when machines were used to open up the Powers, Mary Flyn and John Flyn. land. Graham's Island is now just another 1884 - George Burdick. good farming community. 1886 — Thomas Fitzgerald and V. T. A current sign on Highway 19 points Brown English. out the way to Ziebach Recreation Area. 1887 — Henry Bergman. It was through that strip about one-half Octave LaRose was the first permanent mile wide between Grand Harbor Bay (Six settler on the island. The ferry privilege Mile Bay) and Big Coulee Bay that Gra­ was granted him by MajorConrad, Post ham's Island could be reached. For three , Commanderat Fort Totten. LaRose had been years a ferry operated across the narrows | employed as a government contractor dir­ on the Fort Totten side. ecting the building of the mission school. The island got its name from Captain In the summer of 1886 he built the church Duncan Graham, who lived on the island at Fort Totten. Octave LaRose was born in temporarilyabout 1816-1817. He was born St. Henri, Hochelaga County, Quebec, in Edinburgh, Scotland, in 1766 and had May 9, 1837. In 1860 he married Mary served England in the War of 1812. He married Hazah, a twin of Chief Way-a- EXCURSION given-agee of the Sioux tribe. One early -TO- settler indicated a dugout on the island as >the place where Graham lived. Graham GRAHAM'S ISLAND, had come to trap and to trade with the In­ Hie I irsl Mace Used as » Trailing I'osl, in WW. dians, but he was not very successful. He diedatMendota, Minnesota, in December of 1847, leaving four daughters. Two of hisgrandchildren, Mrs. James McLaughlin and Antoine Busson, were well known to early settlers on fhe island. Between 1880 and 1883 the greater part of Graham's Island was permanently settled. In his book Reminiscences of Gra­ ham's Island, Usher Burdick remembers that Minnewaukan Bay was about twenty feet deep and fairly teemed with fish. Captain Graham had noted, however, that that bay had been nearly dry in 1817, in­ dicating that the Devils Lake watershed has STEAMER "MINNIE H" ( been historically unpredictable. will leave (U >:.ttl a. in.. The first settlers came from many dif­ ferent placesand created a community that ami "ill return at UM p. Hi., making n ran of Mi miles on Hie* was something special. Since the survey round trip. Von can sec lots of (ha lake, nnd iiie cflufttry ilia t didnotcome to Benson County until 1884, will soon be opened for setllemeiu. many of the settlers squatted on the land Fare for Round Trip. 50 Cts- for two or three years before they could

-81 - Hudson, a daughter of Edward Hudson, an David DeNoyer built a kiln on the west English trader, and Nancy Campbell, a side of the island and burned and sold Sioux Indian. He came to Fort Totten from nearlya thousand barrels of lime. The lime Wabasha, Minnesota in 1873. brought about $1 .25 a barrel. Buffalo bones brought $6.00 per ton The wooded island offered the settlers from Sheet Iron Brown, a merchant at Min­ a great advantage over the surrounding newaukan. All the settlers worked at prairie land. It afforded excellent pro­ gathering bones off the prairie and selling tection from the severe winter and was a them. Bones were plentiful, since the home for deer and prairie chickens. Wild severe winters from 1877 to 1883 had frozen game and fish were readily available. thousands of buffalo on the prairie. Prairie people came from miles around to Mail came irregularly for the first few buy wood, and some was hauled to town years from Grand Harbor, the first post and sold. The opening of a farm on the office in Ramsey County. In 1885 the mail island, however, was a slow process, for was carried regularly twice a week. Oc­ the land had to be cleared and grubbed. tave LaRose was the first postmaster, and Eight to ten acres was all a man could the post office was named LaRose. Stephen clear and plow in a year. DeNoyer was the mail carrier. Mrs. La- The first wheat seed came from Fort Rose also carried the mail for about seven Totten in 1883. The first crop was fed to years. The office was discontinued for a livestock. In the fall of 1884 a thresher short time but was re-established as the came in from Poplar Grove, and the first Graham's Island post office with Mr. wheat crop for sale was soon on its way to Thomas Fitzgerald as postmaster. When he market. The years to 1 888 were fairly good left the island a few years later, Mrs. H. crop years, but from 1888 to 1890 crops E. Hoadley became postmistress. The old either dried out or froze out. During those roll top mail desk never left the island. bad years people had no money to buy The present rural mail service to the island fuel. It was a good thing there was wood comes out of Devils Lake post office. A on Graham's Island. A military wood re­ few residents pick up thier mail at the serve was opened on the island, and each Minnewaukan post office. head of family was permitted to obtain six In 1 882 a school house was built on the loads of wood free of charge. island . From the first the school was a mat­ ter of general interest and pride. School The raising of livestock for beef and opened for the first time in the summer of dairy products brought income to the Is-' 1885. The old worn and weathered school land people. For a time the livestock were building is still in place on the island. pastured in one common herd on the island. Currently the island children are bused But soon the herd grew and had to be driven to school in Minnewaukan. During the north across Big Coulee to open range for period from 1885 to 1900 no fewer than the summer and back to the island for the sixteen students from the island school re­ winter. ceived teacher's certificates and secured Many of the settlers found ways to sup­ employment as teachers. Four of the teach­ plement their agricultural income. A few ers of this school later became County of the men found work as carpenters at Superintendents. A few of the early families Fort Totten. Octave LaRose operated the have descendents still living on Graham's ferry for three years. James Micheis and Island.

82 CHAPTER 8 Sully's Hill National Game Preserve

Fifteen miles south of the city of Devils by the Department of Agriculture and In­ Lake, on highway 57 and tucked away in terior. In 1916 funds were appropriated the picturesque hills of the Fort Totten and a 700 acre tract was enclosed with an Sioux Indian Reservation, lies the Sully's 88 inch heavy, woven wire, big game Hill National Game Preserve. One of four fence and it is within this area that small like areas administered by the United herds of buffalo, elk and deer are main­ States Fish and Wildlife Service where tained. native American bison, or buffalo can be In March 1917, the first elk tor the pre­ seen under natural conditions, the preserve serve, fifteen in number, were received consists of 994 acres of Devils Lake shore from Yellowstone National Park, and in and rolling timberland interspersed with the same year, the original herd of four grassy meadows. It is a sanctuary for na­ deer was obtained from the Agricultural tive wildlife and big game animals that Experiment Station at Fargo, North Da­ were so abundant on the great plains not kota. Six buffalo were presented by the so many years ago. City Park authorities of Portland, Oregon Withdrawn from the Indian reservation in 1918. in 1904 by presidential proclamation of Sully's Hill is now administered as a Teddy Roosevelt the area was first set aside wildlife refuge and big game preserve by as a national park. However, for many theU. S. Fish and Wildlife Service; Con­ years congress was reluctant to appropri­ gress having eliminated National Park Ser­ ate funds for development of the land area vice jurisdiction in 1931 . as such. A herd of between 20 and 30 bison are In 1914 Congress declared the area a maintained, and about 30 white-tailed big game preserve to be administered jointly deer are kept there. Although common now

Captain Ford leading a group which he had brought over on his launch in 1911, climbing Sully's Hill.

83- in North Dakota, it must be remembered fireplaces, spring water, playgroundequip- that at the turn of the century they were ment and toilet facilities are available. all but extinct in this area. Surplus big Before the time of recorded history in game animals are disposed of annually to thisarea,an Indian people lived here that keep the herds within the carrying capa­ we know little about. They buried their city of the range. New blood is period­ dead in mounds placed on hills. Eight of ically introduced into the herds by the these burial mounds can be seen on the transfer of bulls from other areas. preserve. Occasionally a human bone or Canada geese breed in semi-captivity trinket can be found in a badger's tailings on Sweetwater Lake in the Sully's Hill at a mound site . recreation area where they are kept for display purposes. During spring and fall Sully's Hill was named for the famous their numbers are increased by migrating General Sully, leader in a number of suc­ waterfowl. Upland birds such as pheasants cessful Indian expeditions in the northwest and sharptailed grouse live here. Seed during the '60's. It is probable that Gen­ eating and insectiverous song birds are eral Sully never visited the hill which bears abundantand afford good "bird-watching" his name. He could see it from where he for those who enjoy this recreation. camped at the west end of the lake. Though About 60 acres of the preserve, sur­ there is no spectacular historical setting, rounding Sweetwater Lake, have been set the beautiful hill bears the name of a aside foruse asa recreation area . Shelters, brave, energetic soldier.

The first Ramsey County courthouse, built in 1889

The present Ramsey County courthouse, built in 1959

84- CHAPTER 9 AGRICULTURE County Agent Work In Ramsey County

County extension work in Ramsey County Prominent purebred livestock breeders of started in 1917 when William L. Guy was 1929 mentioned were Ed Wilcox, E. B. appointed the County Extension Agent. Calderwood, J. S. Kirk, Harry Hocking, The first written report of extension work and W.J. Rainbough. was made December 1, 1920 and this re­ Prior to 1931 the work of the county port shows that a county fair was organized. agent dealt largely with the promotion of The first year investment was 542,000. betteragricultural practices in seed selec­ Buildings erected included one of the best tion, promotion of better livestock, or- livestock exhibit barns in the state. The ganizationof marketing groups, work with barn had stalls for 100 head of cattle and young men and women and home demon­ a pavilion with a seating capacity of 500. stration work. In 1931 the first in a series Attendance at the 1920 fair was 1,800 of federal programs was administered in the people. One of the most important projects county which, in many cases, consumed a during the early extension years was the great deal of the county agent's time. In improvement of seedgrains. Rodent control 1931 thecountyagentadministered through work to eliminate ground squirrels was local committees the Federal Seed Loan carried on in 22 townships. The 1920 re­ program which lent $118,993 to 571 farm­ port shows that the farmers faced many ers. problems similar to the problems we have today. The first exchange list was published The 1925 report of U. S. Ebner has an in the Devils Lake World in 1932. The interesting comment on farming in the Wheat Production Control Program was county. "The trend of agriculture in the started in that same year. county is toward increased diversification, During the years preceding World War smaller farms and increased livestock es­ 11 there was a rapid change to mechanized pecially dairy cattle, sheep and poultry. agriculture, with the disappearance of The number of farms increased 437 people horses for draft purposes and increase in during that time. At the present time, it is popularity of the combine. interesting to see the new farmsteads that In 1938 W. A. Plath succeeded Ray­ are being built up in Ramsey County. Farm mond Douglas as county agent and then lands that are changing hands are being Paul Abrahamson was county agent until largely bought by relatives of local resi­ 1946. During this period the county agent dents." began the program on use of commercial Thiscomment shows the changing trends fertilizer, chemical weed control and the in agriculture. Farm numbers since the land use planning program. Morris Broschat 1930's have been showing a decrease, farm was the next county agent and was suc­ sizes have increased and specialization in ceeded by Wayne Owens; then Tom Reff two or more major enterprises are the rule who left to join the State Extension office. on most Ramsey County farms. John Logan replaced Tom Reff and is county During 1929 Ramsey County became age nt as of 1976. one of the leading sheep producers in the The program is jointly financed by the state as a result of an extension campaign county, state and federal government. The conducted under the county agent. A total extension program is the education branch of 2,639 sheep, valued at $44,000, was of the U. S. Department of Agriculture. placed in the county increasing the sheep It is charged with the task of providing up population by 26% and giving impetus to to date educational material to farmers. diversification on Ramsey County farms. The extension service is one of the three During the same year a Greater North Da­ branches of the Land Grant College System kota Association train made an all day stop set up to find and provide information to in Devils Lake and sold purebred sires. farmers for a more prosperous agriculture.

-85 Soils of the Lake Region The soils of Ramsey County and the Lake loamy soils that occur on nearly level or Regionarea formed in three different types gently sloping landscape . They have fairly of material. About 60 percent of the soils thick black topsoil, high natural fertility formed in glacial till, 30 percent in lake and have the capability of producing good sediments deposited when the lakes in the crop yields. About 80 percent of the area area were much larger, and about 10 per­ is tillable. The remainder of the area is in cent in various outwash materials. The lat­ native woodland, native pasture or range ter is mainly in southeastern Benson and and water. Soils that occur in these areas northcentral Eddy Counties. are generally not suited to cropland be­ There are about 100 different soil types cause of thinner topsoil, droughtiness, in the area and most of these soils are deep wetness, salinity and steep landscape.

EARLY FARM SCENES

86 Knowledge gained from the study of of these are county and city planning soil properties is valuable information es­ boards, parkboards, wildlife, drainage pecially to the farmer and rancher. This and flood control measures, and highway information helps him better understand his construction. This information is provided soils so that he may use his soils for the by the U.S.D.A. Soil Conservation Ser­ best production and conservation. There is vice incooperation with the North Dakota also an increasing need for soils informa­ University Soils Department. tion for non-agricultural purposes. Some Conservation Practices The centra I and western areas of North used to conserve moisture was also not Dakota have always been dependent on desirable. rainfall in amounts to raise our crops and The government through A.S.C .S., as give us good pastures for our cattle . Our it is now called, encouraged the farmers average rainfall is barely enough to do the through payments to change their tillage job. Many of the years were short of rain, practices to minimize the erosion problems but until the so-called dirty thirties there of both water and wind. Equipment such Were no serious results. Due to a combin­ as chisel plows, cultivators, and other ation of drought, high winds and farming cultivating practices that left a maximum practices which were a contributing fac­ of stubble on the surface were used. Con­ tor, we began to experience serious results tinuous cropping was also used a little. such as wind erosion. This wind erosion The planting of tree shelter belts and pro­ caused fence lines to become drifted full tective strips in the fields, such as flax andcoulees and waterways to be partially strips, was a growing practice after the filled. In later years of over average rain­ thirties and is still practiced. fall and run-off, this caused the develop­ Although new cropland must be brought ment of many nuisance potholes and slow into production to feed a hungry world, run-off in our coulees. the new methods of farming and land pro­ The use of plows and discs in the till­ tection will make this possible without re­ age practices was a factor in the problem. creating a dust bowl such as we had in the The black and excessive summerfallow thirties. Grains, Varieties, Development Smallgrains became the principal ag­ kota 316 from the North Dakota Experiment ricultural commodity of the Lake Region, Station was a Bluestem selection, that following settlement of the area; hard red came to be widely grown in the early part spring wheat and durum became the prin­ of the century. Bolton's Bluestem selected cipal small grain. by Thomas Bolton of Park River, was an­ Red Fife, also called Scotch Fife, was other popular strain. Bluestem was a later the most commonly grown wheat in North ripening variety than Red Fife and very Dakota when the agricultural development satisfactory when growing conditions were of the state began. North Dakota's repu­ good. It became more extensively grown tation for the production of top quality than Red Fife after the turn of the century. No. 1 hard wheat was made with Red Fife. Both of these varieties were severely lack­ This wheat was introduced in the United ing in resistance to stem rust. States from Canada, coming into Canada The variety, Velvet Chaff, sometimes in 1842 by way of Germany and Scotland. known as Bearded Fife was introduced from Red Fife got its name from David Fife of Canada about 1895. This was the result of Ontario, who received and grew the first a cross between Siberian wheat and Red small sample and did much to preserve this Fife, made at an experiment station at early introduction and popularize its use Ottawa, Canada. It came into more gen­ in eastern Canada. eral production after 1905, and was quite Bluestem wheat was introduced in the commonly grown until about 1920. early T890's. L. H. Haynes, of Fargo had A later introduction was the variety, considerable part in the early improvement Marquis. It was released inCanada in 1909. and distribution of this wheat. North Da­ andcameinto limited production in North"

-87 andcame into limited production in North Region farmers, include Mida in 1944; Dakota in 1 912. By 1 920 it occupied about Cadet in 1946; Lee in 1951; Cenley in two thirds of the hard red spring acreage in 1955; Justin in 1962; Forx in 1964; Wal­ the state . Ripening earlier than Fife it was dron in 1969; Olaf in 1 973 and Elian in able to escape rust and heat injury to some 1974. extent, but did not have rust resistance. Average wheat yield for North Dakota The variety, Reward, was introduced in 1890 was 10 bushels per acre. In 1900, about 1925. It was a good yielder, with a very dry year, 4.5 bushels per acre was early maturity, good test weight and pleas­ given as the average. In 1915 a statewide ing appearance, but it also lacked rust average of 17 bushels per acre was resistance. achieved and this was not exceeded until Modern plant breeding began in North 1942 when the mark of 20.5 was reached. Dakota in about 1915, with attempts to The estimated statewide average in 1975 develop rust resistance . Progress was slow, was 25 .5 bushels per acre . because resistant lines that might be used The introduction and establishment of as parents were relatively unknown, but durum wheat was a step of major impor­ in 1915, the North Dakota Experiment tance in North Dakota, and had great Station selected and introduced Kota, the significance for the Devils Lake region stem rust resistant hard red spring wheat which was eventually to become the center then known. That same year, E. S. Mc- of the most intensive area of durum pro­ Fadden, in South Dakota, successfully duction in the nation. Durum was first crossed Marquis with Speltz and in 1923, grown in the late 1890's and farm produc­ selected out of the progeny a highly rust tion increased soon after 1 900. Early durum resistant line which was named Hope. wheats were sometimes called "goose" or Neither Kota nor Hope ever came into "goose wheat". The early durums were extensive farm production but they have principly of Russian origin with the variety been important as parents of many rust re­ Arnautka being grown most extensively at sistant varieties that have been released first. Kubanka, Black Don and Velvet Don since that time. were other early varieties. The USDA and Ceres, developed by L. R. Waldron, the North Dakota Experiment Station were atNDSU and released in 1925, came from active in the introduction and early in­ a cross of Marquis and Kota. Thatcher, crease of durum wheat, demonstrating its released by the University of Minnesota qualities for making of macaroni products in 1934, and still grown to a limited ex­ and aiding in establishing new markets. tent in the western part of spring wheat After the rust years of 1916 and 1919, area, had stem rust resistance but lacked Kubanka durum replaced much of the Ar­ resistance to leaf rust. nautka acreage and continued to be grown Rival and Pilot, released by the North to some extent until about 1950. Dakota station in 1939, had Hope in their Mindun released by the Minnesota sta­ pedigrees. Following that, North Dakota tion in 1 917, came into general production Hard Red Spring varieties were released in the 1920'sand eventually occupied most which have been widely used by Lake of the durum acreage in North Dakota. It

W OA t i',fc?w'->

Threshing crew on the James O. Home farm in Dry Lake Township in 1902 was moderately resistant to the rusts that testing. The station approved it for com­ were present, until the rust strain 15B ex­ mercial production in 1942 and for a num­ ploded in the mid50's. Carleton and Stew­ ber^ of years it was the principal malting art durum , released by the N. D. Experi­ variety grown in the state. Later North ment station in 1943, were more rust Dakota releasesof Malting varieties include resistant than Mindum; as were Vernum, Traill in 1956; Trophy and Lanken in 1961; released in 1947 and Nugget in 1950; Dickson in 1964; and Beacon in 1973. but they all succumbed to 15B. An early feed barley was Trebi which came from the University of Minnesota in Sentry durum, released in 1954 showed 1917. Later releases from the N.D. Ex­ a slight resistance to stem rust race 15B. periment Station include Tregal in 1942, In 1956, the North Dakota Experiment and Nordic in 1971 . A number of barley Station released four durum varieties; varieties from other origins have also been Langdon, Ramsey, Towner and Yuma; all grown here, including some two row vari­ resistant to the 15B rust. Yuma was a poor eties and the six row, blue aleurone malt­ yielder and was never grown extensively. ing varieties from Canada; Montcalm, Towner and Ramsey were soon attacked by Parkland, Conquest and Bonanza. still another new strain of rust but Langdon continued to be grown for a number of Flax had some importance as a crop for years. Superior rust resistance was in cor- the pioneers. It was commonly grown on porated in Wells and Lakota varieties, newlybrokensod; but often dropped out of which were released in 1960. The variety, rotation as time went on because it suc- Leeds, came out in 1966, incorporating cumbedtothe wilt disease. The N.D. Ex­ rust resistance with superior quality. Sub­ periment Station was growing a number of sequent releases from the N. D. Experi­ lines of flax in the early 1920's, looking ment Station now occupy most of the durum for wilt resistance. In 1 925, a selection acreage in the state and Lake Region. from one of the lines was named Linota They include Rolette, released in 1971; and released because it had some resis­ Ward, released in 1972; Rugby, Botno, and tance. The following year, the station re­ Crosby, released in 1 973 and Cando re­ leased the variety, Bison, which became leased in 1975. the most popular variety in the state from Barley, grown both as a feed grain and 1930 to 1941 . It had good wilt resistance formalting, has been an important product but became susceptible to rust. Later N.D . of the Lake Region farms. One of the releaseswhichweregrown for a time, then earliest malting varieties was Oden- gave way to others, were Walsh, Viking, brucken, which was introduced from Ger­ Dakota, Marine, Linda, Norland, Bolley, many in 1889 by the Ontario Agricultural B-5128 and Foster. Col lege and later sent to the University of In 1975 the variety, Omlbert, was re­ Wisconsin. Wisconsin 38, which was re­ leased jointly by Minnesota, South Dakota leased by the Wisconsin station in 1929 and North Dakota experiment stations; and and was grown extensively in North Da­ on the basis of disease resistance, was kota in subsequent years, had Odenbrucken superior to the older varieties. as one of its parents. New and improved crop varieties have Manchuria was the North Dakota helped Lake Region farmers increase pro- station's first malting barley released, ductivityandachieve higheryeilds through made in 1920. In the 1930's S. T. Lykken the years. They have also used other aspects of Kindred, N.D. selected a single rust of technology in the form of improved free barley plant from a field of Wisconsin machinery, more effective insect and dis­ 37. He saved the seed, grew it for increase ease control methods, and better under­ and when he had several bushels, submit­ standing of crop growth requirements and ted it to the N . D . Experiment Station for nutrient needs, to achieve these ends. The History of Farm Machinery breaking plow, and a team of horses or When the pioneers came into the Lake Region in the early 1880's to take up their yoke of oxen. . claims, they brought of necessity only the Farming operations consisted ot plow­ simple equipment they had owned or could ing, dragging^ seeding, putting up some afford to buy. Usually this was tools, a hay and harvesting.

89 The plow was pulled by two horses or if wedge-shaped blades which made the rows. land was rocky, by oxen. The early single The seed was put into a box 1 2 to 18 feet plow bottom was made of wood. Later iron long and fed into the rows through long was forged and put over the wooden point. tubes extending from the drill box to the Then later the share was iron, pulled by 2 boot and from there to the ground. Woe to to 4 horses depending on the share size the poor fellow who left a little grain in and the kind of sod to be broken. Usually the drill box and the next morning found anacre orpossiblya little more was broken the feeders clogged with moist grain. Extra in a day. jobforhim! They tell me this is true, even The sod was broken about lj inches unto this very modern day. deep, the farmer walking and holding the For haying, they did have scythes and handles of the plow. He drove the horses cradles and did rake by hand in places with the lines knotted about his waist or on hard to reach by machinery; but soon most one side of his neck and under the other of it was done by mowers and rakes. Our arm (brave fellow) and guided them in a mower was pulled by two horses. It had 5 straight line down the field. After the sod foot sickle which was raised to avoid rocks was turned and the grass dried, he "back or other objects. set" it turning the same furrow back 4 or 5 When the hay was dried, it was raked inches deep. The grass was then under­ into long windrows by a two-wheeled rake neath and fertilized the soil to some ex­ which had long curved teeth. A lever was tent. used to dump the hay as soon as the teeth The soil was harrowed by a spike-toothed filled. A man using a pitch fork threw the harrow or dragged by pulling a heavy tim­ hay into the hay rack and hauled it to the ber weighted by rocks, across the furrow barn where he pitched it into the hay loft. to compact it and remove air which might When the mow was filled the rest was put dry the soil out. The soil would then be into hay stacks. Later years the barn was finer and smoother for planting. filled by the use of hay slings which were The seeding was either hand-broadcast placed on the hay rack and hauled by the orsometimes with spreader held in the hand use of ropes and a pulley to the hay track and cranked by the farmer. Later an end- which extended the length of the top of gate seeder was used. It was a spreading the loft. A team of horses was used to haul disk, about 18 to 20 inches across, fasten­ the slings up, where they were automatic­ ed to the back of the wagon and driven by ally tripped to put the hay in the right a chain turned by the rear wheel. spot. Changes were made in the plow. A sulky When harvest time came and the grain plow was invented. Then a gang plow with was ripe, some farmers used a harvester 2 or more shares was the next. A seat was which was pulled by two horses. It was attached to these and the farmer could operated by 3 men. One drove and the ride. The plow shares on the walking plow other two stood on a platform. As the grain had been cast iron or crucible steel and was elevated to them they bound it by hand had been easily broken. The farmer often with twisted straw. had to "pound out" or sharpen a dull share The first regular binders bound with on his own anvil. The new shares were soft wire or twine. They were 7 foot cut and centered, made of 3 layers of steel, the pulled by four horses. The binder's reel outer layers hardened. These did not break and canvas conveyor handled the grain nor dull so easily but still had to be shar­ with less shelling. There was one shocker pened often by the blacksmith. for each machine. When the grain was The breaking plow had been satisfac­ shocked it had time to cure and wasn't tory for cutting into the sod especially threshed before it was ready. after the mold board had been attached. One of the threshing outfits was a 16 This turned the soil over and saved the horse power Fairbanks-Morse gas engine farmer from having to scrape off the soil mounted on a steel wheeled wagon. It which clung to the share. It now "scoured" was hand-fed and a separator which had itself. The colter, a sharp wheel blade neither a feeder nor blower. It was hand- which turned in front of the share, now fed and a carrier conveyed the straw away made it easier for the share to cut into the from the machine into bucking piles where sod. it was out of the way of the crew. The seeder was a machine called a Steam engines of course, were earlier "drill". At first it was a shoe drill with thangas ones, though we did have our gas

- 90 one first. One steam rig was a big Nichol­ field work. Tractors in the 30's were son Sheperd engine and a Red River Special mounted on rubber tires, not just the orig­ Separator. The crew was an engineer, a inal steel wheel alone. separator man, fireman, water tank man, With the 1940's came great change. 2 spike pitchers at the separator, 10 bundle The drought ended and World War II came team men and 2 or 3 field pitchers, de­ withan upward swing in prices. Labor was pending on the size of the crop and 3 grain scared because of war factory work. The haulers. The engine was fired by straw, combine which hadbeentried in the 1920's though many used wood or coal. The grain and 30's now became very important. A was shoveled by hand from the grain wagon farmer with his swather and combine and into the granaries. Sometimes there had to one or two hired hands could do the work be an extra man at the granary. Later this and do it better than the old binder, was done by an auger. shocker and threshing rig which took more In 1917 and 1918 l.W.W.'s (Indepen­ than a dozen men and several teams of dent Workers of the World) tried to organ­ horses. The wages for such a crew would ize a sort of union of farm workers. They be impossible to pay even if the labor was evidently decided to substitute trouble. available which it wasn't. The combine One would put part of a ball of twine into was the answer. Both the swather and the a bundle which finished the separator for a combine at first were pulled by the same while. When operations started again, tractor but soon the farmer bought another after a lot of trouble and delay, the other smaller tractor to use for swathing and would decide a rock would do better and haying. He also purchased trucks which this really played mayhem . If culprits were made grain hauling faster and easier. The3 detected they were fired upon and chased 40's and 50's also saw much extra equip­ off with shotguns. In those days, night ment. Spraying for the common broadleaf watchmen were put on because a few field weed began. Many owned tractor- farmers lost their outfits by fires deliber­ pulled sprayers. Cultivation practices came ately set. Dynamite was used to destroy into use and cultivators which were large one separator in this region. and strong enough to dig down 10 to 12 From 1950 until 1976 more inventions inches were used. These deep diggers left and machines have been used than all that a rough surface which caught the snow and were made from the stone age to 1950. By also helped with wind erosion. By this time 1890 a 11 horse -powe red mac hi nery had been few plow shares were brought into the invented and inventors concentrated on blacksmith to be pounded out and these machinery powered by steam and later by were "throw aways" which could only be gasoline. While some worked on better sharpened once. The blacksmith was now powersources and tillage tools, others put kept very busy with swather and combine their efforts into mechanizing harvesting repair. He was the most important "one operations. The end results were machines man" in the farming business to both the for harvesting that saved labor and got the farmers and the implement dealers. Both crops off in better shape. depended on him because he could weld a broken part so work could proceed until In the 1920's the use of gas tractors the new piece came. changed the picture. Within a few years most of the plowing and cultivating were Haying equipment changed. Balers were done with tractors. Horses were still used invented and loaders came into use. for seeding and haying, andon manure Farmers found the soil was in need of spreaders. At this time manure was our only more fertilizationand drills were equipped fertilizer. with fertilizer attachments. Many of the All this time farmers often owned their combines and swathers were self propelled. threshing outfits together, threshed for In the early 60's bigger equipment with neighbors too, and often finished after more power got the work done much faster. snow fall. In the 1920's some farmers Many farmers owned several tractors and started using the combine. The first used the equipment to keep them busy. in this area was in 1924. Miany improve­ In the 1970's all machinery had become ments were made by 1927-28. much bigger. Spraying is done by plane or The 1930's were not conducive to in­ by very modern self-propelled sprayers. vestment in new machinery due to the Bigger, more efficient machinery relates drought and low prices. Most farmers had to the increase in number of acres one one tractor which now did all the heavy farmer can farm well. The high price of

-91 - machinery means he must have it in use in seems to be a machine for every conceiv­ order to afford it. Often he gets in custom able need. A special industrial two-way combiners or his neighbors to help him. radio is used to speak from house to ma­ That crop has to be kept out of bad weather chine. This saves a tremendous amount of if he is to get a good price and be able to time, many trips for repairs and conse­ operate another year. quently it also saves much gas. The cabs Many find it a good ideatorentan on tractors are air-conditioned. The tractor expensive piece of machinery which is only ismuchmore powerful, but quieter. Many occasionally needed. Sometimes several farmers have hearing loss from constant may own one piece of machinery to save terrible noise. There is a trend toward money. many more 4 wheel drive tractors and diesel power. At present, spraying is done for wild Many changes have occurred but nothing oats and nearly every weed. They also has changed more than in the field of farm spray for insects harmful to crops. There machinery. Technological Advances In Farming The American Heritage Dictionary of start up the field again. The prophets of the English Language defines technologi­ doom said that mustard would take over cal as pertaining to technology, and the the country, and the same was said of definition of that is the application of Frenchweed, Canada thistle, Russian cac­ science. tus, sow thistle, wild oats, and leafy I have a farm background, born on a spurge. Today all are controlled by chem­ farm north of Penn, in Coulee Township ical application of some one or the other where my father homesteaded in 1883. The of the many selective herbicides on the farm has been in the family ever since. market; some by ground spraying. The I have walked miles behind a drag be­ cheapest and best, in my estimation, is fore and after seeding, which was pulled aerial spraying because it is more even and by four horses; now modern tractors pull destroys lessgrain. Pesticides are also used large drags, with spring teeth, at high in the control of aphids and other small speeds. grain pests; but must be applied by plane I have plowed with five or six horses spraying as the grain is too large to allow on a two bottom plow, or with eight on a ground spraying without damage to the triple plow. Now there are five, six, crop. seven or even more bottoms pulled by the To clean seed grain, we used fanning modern tractors. mills and kickers (small kickers are still I have hauled bundles from daylight to used today for c leaning grain samples in dark for $2.50 per day to a steam operated country elevators). Carter mills, and ro­ threshing rig, and later to kerosene or gas­ tating steel drums lined with flannel were oline operated tractor rigs. In 1929 I pur­ used to remove wild oats from oat seed. chased a McCormick Deering No. 11 All these have been forgotten and are only combine, which was a pull type, as they to be found in farm museums. all were in those days. I was told that I was crazy and was doing my best to lose Treating of seed is another chore which the crop that I had (my first, by the way). has been made much easier. We used to Now nearly all combines are self propelled use a mixture of formaldehyde and water and the threshing machines are things of to sprinkle the grain shoveling it over again the past, along with grain binders, and and again, to make sure that it was evenly numerous hoboes, bindle stiffs, and drifters mixed. ThencameCeresan, and we worked who invaded this country in the fall, to half the night to treat enough for the next shock the grainand laterto join the thresh­ days seeding. Now the farmer takes his ing crews. grain to the country elevator for cleaning When I was a young boy, going to and treating with modern chemicals, in­ school in Churchs Ferry, we were often cluding treatment for wireworm. hired on Saturdays, at $1 .25 per day, to Through the work of the agricultural go out in the fields to pull mustard, put it collegesandexperiment stations, yields of in a sack and carry it to the end of the wheat, barley and flax have been greatly field where we could empty our sacks and improved.

-92 - First (inmymemory)came Fife and Blue- double, tripleandeven quadruple hitches. stem wheats, then Velvet Chaff, which was Howevermodern machinery has its faults a bearded wheat, and then (when I raised as intensive cultivation of land without my first crop) Marquis was the favorite. conservation practices causes extensive Then came quite a few varieties, each wind and water erosion of the soil which better than the other, until at the present must be stopped if continued production is Waldron seems to be the favorite in this to be expected. Conservation practices area. Advances were similar in barley and such as strip cropping and grassland rota­ flax product ion. In the drought of the "dirty tion must sooner or later be adopted. thirties" nothing seemed to do much in the Way of yields; but those who stayed with We should not forget the farm wife as farming were rewarded later with good she has been helped also by many modern crops, as the county production average conveniences. From the hand pumping of went from 11 bushels per acre in the forties waterand the old wood or coal fed kitchen to the present average of around 30 bushels. range to running water in the farm home, Durum came into the picture, even be­ andelectric or gas burning stove, plus re­ fore the thirties. Kubanka was the best frigeration, a deep freeze and a host of varietythen, but, as in the case of wheat, electrical appliances have made life much many varieties have been developed and easier and have given time for garden clubs, discarded in favor of better yielding kinds. home beautification projects, and general Fertilizers have been developed to in­ enjoyment of life. crease yields and have proved to work well if sufficient moisture is available during Certainlygreat advances in technology the growing season. have been made in my lifetime. Cars, trucks, airplanes and tractors, all used in Dairying has improved greatly, although farming have been developed, and if the this is not an important dairy region. From farmer himself has not been responsible for tiresome hand milking to the milking ma­ the technological advances he hascertainly chine, from skimming cream from milk set taken advantage of them, to the point in crocks to the cream separator now op­ where farming is no longer dawn to dusk erated by electricity instead of by hand. continuous labor, and he can now enjoy Handling of roughage has progressed the many things in the way of recreation from cutting hay with a 5 foot cut horse that formerly he had no time for. drawnmower, raked by horsepower, pitched In coming years we may see the farmer onto hay racks by hand, and hauled to the sitting at home and operating his machines mow or stack, and again handled by hand; by remote control. If this seems rather far to power driven hay and silage choppers fetched, remember that at the turn of this which operate in the field and have given century things that are being done now the farmer more leisure time or time to would have seemed to be impossible to conduct other farm work. those engaged in farming at that time. Advances in farm machinery have been phenominal. From the early tractors which In a little more than a century man has were crude, of 5 to 15 horsepower at the progressed from the scythe and the flail and drawbar, and were anything but perfect other primitive methods of farming to the machines, forever breaking down; to the comparativelyeasy methods that he enjoys present diesel operated giants which carry today, and is almost free of all hand labor, ever increasing loads, further increased by all due to technology. The Typical Pioneer Housewife Women are agriculture's unsung heroes. For the average homestead mother, life Historians have largely ignored their con­ heldmuch loneliness, hardship and worry. tributions — because plowing a field, Dwellings were primitive - a sod house at slopping hogs, churning butter, making first or even a dug out in a hillside shelter­ soap, emptying chamber pots and washing ed many a pioneer North Dakota family work clothes by hand don't seem like great during itsearliest life on the prairies. Later achievements. The willingness of early a frail shanty of rough pine boards housed Lake Region farm women to do tiresome but hundreds of homesteaders — the outside was necessary chores has kept many a farm from covered with tar paper held in place by going under. laths. Most homestead housewivesgotalong

93 - with the minimum of household equipment in church affairs. This commentary was because a plow, oxen and farm tools were written by Henry Lake. more important to their future. Besides taking an interest and working The Ramsey County pioneer housewife in community and church affairs, Mrs. and her children weeded the garden, Emma Home raised 12 children of her own picked potato bugs and carried buckets of and three step children. water to a I ittle bed of flowers. She milked A son, James Home writes: "Dad fre­ the cows and stored the milk in a storm quently took a wagon load of wheat to the cellar where eggs and other perishables mill at Devils Lake and came back with a were kept cool. She fed calves, raised wagon load of groceries such as flour (some chickens, ducks and turkeys. She cooked, times 10 to 15 hundred sacks), sacks of canned, sewed, patched, spun, and wove rice, and oatmeal, many 25 pound boxes rags into rugs and also helped deliver of dried fruit besides a barrel of sorghum, babies. a keg of vinegar and a huge container of There were few modern conveniences as honey. It took a lot of food for a family late as 1912 and a survey showed that of 12 and usually 3 to 6 hired men. The women wanted labor saving appliances. modern shopping cart wouldn't fit into the The coming of rural electricity to North picture very well. We churned butter with Dakota changed the lives of farm women a ten gallon barrel mounted on a frame so from drudgery to pleasure in their house­ we could sit down and turn the barrel with work. Many farms had home plants that a crank. It took a lot of butter. In thresh­ generated electricity, or wind chargers ing time we had to board the crew of about that were used before the arrival of REA to 25 to 28 men. One fall while they were North Dakota. threshing on our place it started to rain A typical pioneer housewife was Mrs. and rained for 21 days. We boarded a creW James A. Home formerly Emma Reynolds of 26 men besides our own family of 14 or who taught one of the first schools in the more at that time. What a change the com~ county in Dry Lake Township in 1885. bine was when 2 or 3 men could do all the After several short terms of teaching she harvesting and threshing at one time. The married James A. Home who had come from Homes bought the first combine in the Minnesota in 1882. An early History of the county in 1910". Lake Region compiled by Henry Hale states ina section on Dry Lake Township: "Since The major change in American agricul" Miss E . E. Reynolds, though not under that ture during World War II and post war years name since 1886, has lived in Dry Lake greatly affected the life of farm women^ since she first arrived, I think she is entitled Most homes now have running water, cen­ to receive further notice. She —though tral heating, electrictiy, telephones, not receiving the right to vote at all elec­ radio, television, freezers and other labor tions — always manifested a great interest saving appliances. Because of the tren in municipal, county and state affairs. For toward large-scale, specialized farming, many years she has been a school officer few farms in this area keep large gardens, and to her efforts, the schools of the town­ cowsforbutterandmilk, or a few chickens ship owe their present high standard. She for eggs. Thus, these chores have been always stood for efficiency of teachers and largely eliminated from the farm woman s proper equipment of the schools. She be­ daily routine. lieved in maintaining the majesty of our Nonetheless, farm women still do their laws and identifying herself with every share. Besides housework, they can and movement to better social conditions and freeze foods, sometimes run tractors during elevate the moral stature of the commun­ planting and harvest time, and often do ity. She has always been an active worker the paperwork that keeps the farm running.

Diversification At the present time, a high percentage new life and the promise of free land by of farms in the Lake Region area are strict­ the Homestead Act of 1862, they quickly ly grain farms. However, it was a different settled this new land. They endured lone­ story when the first pioneers came to the liness, privations and many hardships be tor Dakota Territory. Lured by visions of a their lives became easier and better estab-

-94- lished on the barren prairies. These hardy much of it was canned for use in the win­ and courageous pioneers met the challenge ter. Potatoes, squash, pumpkins and the of the new land withcourage and optimism . like were put in cold storage rooms. They adapted themselves to the prairie, The transition from use of animal power living insod houses or dugouts, eating fish to mechanized machinery gradually over a andwild game, supplemented by plantings period of years. Diversification has been of corn and potatoes. Cultivation of the the slogan of agricultural promoters since land was slow, as breaking the sod was a the first days of commercial agriculture . tough job. Grain was the chief crop pro­ duced as it was found to be the most adapt­ Then it was considered best to have a able to the soil. Other grains grown were little of everything to be self sufficient. oats, barley, flax and corn. By dint of Today the farmer realizes he must diversify hard work and frugal living, these pioneers while specializing. He divides his time gradually increased their holdings and and finances between a few major divisions with the production of good crops gained and then specializes in those divisions; some financial independence. This enabled such as beef cattle and grain, grain and them to purchase more land, plant more sheep, grain and potatoes, dairy products acreage and so improve their life style. and grain. Each division is large enough to Gradually pioneer life passed. The demand his attention; yet it compliments country became more settled, railroads the other in the utilization of time and brought markets closer and the price of equipment. This enables the farmer to land increased. Trees were planted on the utilize his time to the maximum rather than homesteads and frame houses replaced the have periods first of great activity, fol­ sod houses. By this time, most of the farms lowed by periods of little activity. were equipped with horses and improved Diversification is typical of the grain machinery to till their increased acreage. and cattle farms of central North Dakota, This necessitated the putting up of hay and with grain as the major income product. growing oats for feed. Livestock became Cattle supplement the grain operations in an important item on the farm to help the the utilization of labor and available low farmer be self sufficient in his operation. value roughage. Crop rotation is used fol­ Cattle contributed milk, cream and butter lowing the three pattern. Crops planted are and beef. Most farmers raised hogs and durum, barley, oats, corn and some alfalfa produced their own bacon, hams and saus­ for hay. Fall operations include plowing, ages. A smokehouse was used for curing cultivating and preparing the land for the the meat. Chickens and turkeys were, also, crop next year. With the summerfallow, raisedalong with ducks and geese, adding this reduces the acreage to be plowed in to the daily diet. The farmers' wives were the spring . During the summer months, this skilled in canning beef and poultry for use summerfallow land is usually worked with during the winter months. Corn was grown both cultivator and surf lex. For cattle a and made into silage for cattle feed, and systemized feeding program is used to get corn and barley for hog feed. On land that maximum growth and later another feeding was not tillable, cattle and sheep grazed program for fattening and finishing to bring and the farmers had an added income from the animals the desired weight for market. the sale of wool. The surplus of butter, A native pasture provides range for the cow cream and eggs was traded at the local herd. The labor records, since 1958, show store forgroceries. Vegetable gardens were that the cattle and grain projects receive planted by farmers' wives and children. approxmimately equal amounts of time, but A wide variety of vegetables were planted, the net returns per man hours were much producing plenty of food for the table and more for grain than cattle .

95 YOU'VE COME A LONG WAY, AMERICA!

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