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Shark Diving & Vibrant Reefs in Beqa Lagoon

Shark Diving & Vibrant Reefs in Beqa Lagoon

Fabulous Fiji Shark diving & vibrant reefs in Beqa Text and photographs by Scott Bennett

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“I’d like to introduce you to Lying at the crossroads of the South fatigue. Feeling somewhat energized, some of our friends “ enthused Pacific, the Fiji have long been I collected my gear and stepped out famous as an idyllic tropical paradise. into the cool morning air. our guide Manasa, AKA Papa, While famous for its vibrant reefs, Waiting outside was my driver and as he held aloft a well-worn Fiji’s Beqa Lagoon (pronounced Beng- after loading up the van, we set out loose-leaf binder. The photo- a) on the main of Viti Levu is for the journey to Pacific Harbour. graphs within produced nerv- rapidly gaining fame as a world-class Soon afterwards, the first rays of dawn shark diving destination. bathed the landscape with golden ous laughter and a couple of Two flights and 15 hours after light, revealing immense fields of anxious glances amongst a leaving my home in Toronto, I arrived sugar cane spreading to the hori- few of the divers. Then again, at Nadi’s international airport on zon. For many years, sugar cane was with names like Scarface, the island of Vitu Levu. Stumbling the mainstay of the Fijian economy, bleary-eyed into the arrival hall, although nowadays tourism has Hook and Big Mama, these I was greeted by an energetic replaced it as the primary source of were no ordinary friends. group of local musicians performing income. Sadly, that industry is now They were sharks, and we traditional Fijian music. Their level of hurting, as the December 2006 coup enthusiasm at 5:15AM was nothing dealt tourism a severe blow. As usual, would soon be making their short of astonishing! It was infectious the media exaggerated everything acquaintance. too, and soon, everyone standing in well out of proportion. In actuality, the customs queue forgot his or her the entire incident was pretty low-key,

Bull shark at “The Den”; One of Shark ’s friendly Java morays 21 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Fiji

without a trace of violence. Outside make envious. Two hours after courtesy shuttle. As the shark dives are of Suva, you wouldn’t have known departing the airport, we arrived in held four days a week on Mondays, anything had happened at all. Life Pacific Harbour and headed straight Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, carried on as usual with one notable for Beqa Adventure Divers, situated our destination was Carpet , exception; nervous tourists cancelled on the grounds of the Lagoon Resort situated close to Beqa Island. To get trips. Not THIS tourist, as it takes more aside the Qara-ni-Qio River that emp- there, we boarded the MV Predator, than a coup to keep me away from a ties into Beqa Lagoon. the shop’s sleek and spacious hydro- good diving destination! foil catamaran. Along with our guide Along the way, we passed Hindu The Eagle has landed Eliki, there were only two other divers temples and mosques, a testament On hand to greet me was Andrew on board. Most people come to to the country’s large Indian popula- Cumming, the shop’s easy-going Beqa just for the shark dives, but the tion. Descendents of workers that manager. No stranger to sharks, lagoon’s broad expanse boasts more were brought over by the British in the Andrew arrived in Fiji by way of than 20 dives sites. 19th century to work the cane fields, the Bahamas, where he worked After departing the , the boat they now comprise a large percent- in Walkers Cay for shark conserva- headed downriver for the lagoon. age of the country’s population. After tionists Gary and Brenda Adkison. The lush tropical vegetation fringing an hour of driving, the never-ending Unfortunately, I’d arrived a tad late the river soon gave way to extensive fields of sugar cane were replaced to partake in the day’s shark dives, so stands of . Coupled with with rolling hills cloaked in lush veg- the day was spent recuperating and the forest-clad hills on the horizon, the etation. The southern of Viti getting my camera gear ready. entire scene resembled the location Levu receives abundant rainfall, result- Early the next morning, I was picked of a jungle movie, which, I found out ing in a landscape so green it would up for my first dive via the shop’s later, it actually was. A few years

LEFT: The lush countryside is dotted with clearings planted with cassava; ABOVE: Whip adorn the walls at ET 22 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Fiji travel LEFT TO RIGHT: Some of the dazzling soft corals to be found at Carpet Cove; Hungry diners greet the dive guides are Shark reef ; Fan corals line the entrance to ET’s subterranean passage

previously, “Anacondas: Hunt for the Blood Orchid” was filmed here, where Fiji stood in for Borneo. (Anacondas in Borneo??? Don’t ask.) The dilapidated ship constructed for the film, “The Bloody Mary” now graces the grounds of the resort near the dive shop. With nary an anaconda in sight, we safely negotiated the river and reached Beqa Lagoon after a pleasant ten-minute trip. After another 15 minutes, we arrived at our destination. pinnacles were shrouded with coral My home for the week was the newly Surprise growth of unparalleled luxuriance. opened Uprising Resort. Set The beginning of the dive featured a Innumerable basslets and coral trout back from a palm-fringed beach offer- somewhat unexpected surprise. Resting swarmed amongst soft corals garbed ing expansive views of Beqa Lagoon, on the bottom at a depth of 30m in vivid colours of red, orange and twelve bures surrounded by lush tropical was a large wreck, a Chinese trawler purple so vivid it almost hurt the eyes! gardens provide an elegant blend of measuring 25m in length. Sunk in 1996 I was so engrossed photographing the traditional Fijian architecture and mod- to create an , she rests corals, I nearly missed a trio of great ern sophistication. Each comes with a upright at depth of 30m in the middle barracuda swimming past. On the balcony and ocean views as well as an of a large sandy area populated by bottom, abundant ribbon eels twitched outdoor shower. legions of undulating garden eels. spasmodically in the gentle . While the sides of the vessel were fairly A newly constructed dorm at the rear devoid of growth, ascending to the “Follow me” of the property caters to those on a upper deck revealed a myriad of coral The second dive was also made at budget. Owner Rene Munch, resort growth. Schools of darted about Carpet Cove but at a different set of manager Alfie Christoffersen and the while feather stars decorated railings pinnacles. If anything, it was even more enthusiastic staff ensure the atmosphere like undersea floral arrangements. After spectacular than the first, with more has the relaxed feel of a small family a bit more exploration, we headed for corals and even more basslets. At one run resort offering a taste of real Fijian shallower water. Beqa Lagoon is often point, a friendly batfish approached. ambience. A wide selection of activities dubbed “The soft coral capitol of the Then, as if saying, “Follow me”, he led is available, from water-skiing, kayaking world”, and Carpet Cove more than me over to a rocky overhang where an and snorkelling to white-water rafting, lives up to its name. Rising to within obliging cleaner wrasse performed a full horseback riding and cultural shows at eight metres of the surface, a series of tune-up. the nearby Arts Village Pacific Harbour.

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Despite the empty food containers, the ever- hungry fish still hope for one last-minute tid- bit ; Trevalley feeding frenzy, Shark Reef; A short distance inland is the lush vegetation of the Serua

Sitting by the pool with a cold drink Fiji. Working closely with the Fiji govern- vigilantly patrol the area on a boat was enough to inspire terminal laziness! ment and the reef’s traditional owners, provided by the Shark Foundation in However, there was diving to be done! Beqa Adventure Divers has designated Switzerland. The crew is on call 24 hours In marked contrast to my first day the waters of Shark Reef as a protected a day to perform random checks to of diving, the Shark Dive trip was jam- marine reserve. The reserve wouldn’t ensure illegal fishing doesn’t occur. In packed! Something was fishy too. be possible without the co-operation of addition, ongoing research studies are Literally. The three large wheeled the villages of Wainiyabia and Galoa, carried out to learn more about these garbage bins conspicuously parked which are Shark Reef’s traditional own- majestic yet misunderstood creatures. at the stern were brimming with ers. Both have relinquished fishing rights 600kg of fish parts, courtesy of a fish in the reserve. In return, a fee of FJ$20 is Diving with the sharks processing plant in Suva. The wafting collected from each diver who partici- After descending to 30 metres, the aroma from the containers provided pates on the Shark Dive. Each month, divers assemble behind a wall con- an appropriate backdrop for our dive the money is deposited into each structed of rock. Situated on a ledge briefing. On board was a crew of eight village’s community account. next to the drop off plunging into the including the two senior shark feeders, Conservation won’t work without the depths of Beqa Passage, this is The Manasa and Rusi. Prior to the advent direct involvement of the local people, Arena, the first of three feeding sites of Christianity, the residents of Beqa who have to see the benefits from pro- visited during the first dive. The large Island worshipped sharks and made a tecting the reef as opposed to fishing. wheeled garbage containers had covenant with the Shark God. In return, Depending on the season, up to eight already been sent down and placed in they were promised that sharks would shark species can be seen here, includ- position and the first of the day’s cus- never harm them, and they could ing grey reef, blacktip, whitetip, lemon, tomers had already showed up. forever swim without concern. As both sicklefin lemon, silvertip, bull and tiger Giant trevallies, some a metre in Rusi and Manasa hail from Beqa Island, sharks. length, swirled about, eagerly joined by this was a good omen indeed! a multitude of fish including red bass, One of the greatest challenges fac- rainbow runners, Napolean wrasse, Marine Sancturary ing the reserve is the prevention of ille- spotted eagle rays and a myriad of Established in April 2004, the Shark Reef gal fishing. Reef wardens trained and reef fish. At last count, over 267 spe- Marine Sanctuary is the first of its kind in recruited from the local community cies have been seen observed here.

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Reef scene, Carpet Cove. NEXT PAGE: Lavish coral growth earns Beqa Lagoon “The soft coral capitol of the world”

Elsewhere, trevallies are usually While Manasa or Rusi have never sharks including one massive speci- found in pairs or small schools, been bitten by the sharks, both men that turned out to be “Big but more than a hundred can be men bear an assortment of scars Mama.” They were soon joined by found at Shark Reef. The of from the unrelenting trevallies. a trio of tawny nurse sharks, with the boat engine brings them out Divers are instructed to keep their one specimen easily four metres en masse, excitedly encircling the hands at their sides, lest one of the long. They all knew the drill and shark feeders like an underwa- over-eager trevallies mistake an were soon over to investigate the ter tornado. Anywhere else, they errant finger as a fishy morsel! containers. Within moments, their would be an attraction on their With unbridled anticipation, eve- heads were right inside, greedily own, but here, are but a prelude to ryone waited for the star attrac- gobbling the contents like big grey the main event. tions. We didn’t have to wait for vacuum cleaners. The number of long; out in the blue, the first dim fish was simply overwhelming; you ous to the divers. After approxi- enthralling minutes. And this was big fish action is! Bull sharks, silhouettes patrolled past, coming almost didn’t know where to look! mately ten minutes, everyone just the first dive! unmistakable with their blunt closer with each pass. The sharks ascended to the reef top and During the surface interval, heads and stocky builds, were “...the first dim sil- had arrived! After 17 minutes at The Arena, it the final feeding station. Yet the initial unease of some divers already circling in the blue as houettes patrolled past, was time to head to shallower more—in a seemingly limitless had all but evaporated and everyone took their positions. After a few minutes, Manasa water and the second feeding supply of sharks—appeared, everyone couldn’t wait to get Photographers get a prime posi- coming closer with each motioned for everyone to join him station called The Den. Here, the along with hordes of rainbow back in the water. By the time tion at the end of the wall near pass. The sharks had down in the arena. The Shark Dive feeders were engulfed by the runners, yellowback fusiliers and the hour was up, everyone was the feeders. arrived!” must rank as one of the easiest smaller shark species. Whitetip and sergeant majors. suited up and eager to go. dives of all time; just take a seat blacktip reef sharks, along with the The second dive is called In order to get fed, the sharks and watch the show! occasional grey reef, approached Camera batteries exhausted, The Take Out. Situated at a must follow a very specific pro- First to arrive were a few bull for a handout, completely oblivi- I reluctantly surfaced after 50 depth of 16m, this is where the cedure, approaching the feed-

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26 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 SCOTT BENNETT EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Fiji

Giant groupers Subsequent dives at Shark Reef were nothing short of exhilarating, with each dive providing a ers from left to totally different experience. On the second right. Failure to day, we were treated to an additional visitor. do so means Swimming amongst the seemingly endless missing out! hordes of trevally was one of the resident Even the new giant groupers, complete with a little entou- arrivals learn rage of juvenile golden trevallies. It was only the drill very when a nurse shark swam by that the scale quickly and the become apparent. This was one seriously big entire opera- fish! tion runs like I found out later from Manasa that this indi- a well-oiled vidual hadn’t been seen for some time and machine. Dive weighed in excess of 200 kilos. Apparently, guides armed this wasn’t even the big one! That honour with pokers belongs to the aptly named “Ratu Rua”. take position Translated as “Big Chief” in Fijian, this behe- I’m sure the sharks, trevallies and red bass behind the moth tips the scales at an astonishing 600kg! were somewhat baffled by our presence. I guests, lest any Despite having a mouth big enough to swal- could imagine them asking, “What are you of the sharks low your head, he’s fortunately benign. Still, doing here, it’s only Thursday!” After a quick get too close. he’s the chief around these parts, and the inspection, they soon realized there would CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The next 35 minutes were spellbinding, as sharks will give him a wide berth. be no handouts and we were left in peace. A myriad of fish swarm amongst an endless procession of bull sharks swooped With all of the big fish swimming around, the soft corals at Carpet Cove; by only metres from my camera. I watched Macrofest it’s very easy to overlook the little things. Uprising Beach Resort’s expan- in awe as the massive jaws opened to After several days of shooting wide-angle It was almost comical searching for sive pool ; It’s easy to overlook take the bait, often swallowing it one bite! shooting, I was eager to indulge in some nudibranchs when bull sharks could be seen Beqa Lagoon’s abundant Unfortunately, I missed out on the tiger shark. macro photography. Unfortunately, the patrolling the waters just off the wall! macro subjects such as this col- He was around though, having made an ripping current in the lagoon prevented us ourful flatworm; Uprising Beach Resort’s palm-fringed shoreline appearance a few days before my arrival. from visiting the sites Manasa had in mind, Wealth of critters overlooks the lagoon and dis- Still, with more than 20 bull sharks on one so we headed for the protected waters of Close scrutiny of the wall revealed a wealth tant Beqa Island dive, I’m not complaining! Shark Reef. As this was a non-feeding day, of critters, as a plethora of nudibranchs and

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www. seacam.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A hungry whitetip looks for a handout, Shark Reef; Fan coral at ET; A pair of whitetips resting in the shallows travel at Shark Reef; A friendly with it’s entourage Fiji Pinnacle ET thought our dive was In marked contrast to the full boat going to be over before on the previous day’s shark dive, the it had begun! He quickly boat was remarkably empty for the assured us that the dive next day’s diving. With Manasa as was very straightforward our guide, today’s dive consisted of and we could easily do it a grand total of two: Michael, a pho- on our own. tographer from Australia and myself. Descending from After checking our gear, we headed the choppy surface, out under somewhat foreboding skies the pinnacle’s huge for the morning’s first dive site. Once silhouette quickly in the lagoon, the water got progres- came into view. We sively rougher during the 40-minute promptly discovered trip. Our destination was ET, a lone the passage and pinnacle thrusting upward 25m from decided to check it out. the seabed and bisected by a 10m It is actually quite wide long passage. and will comfortably As we were gearing up, Manasa accommodate several came to the unfortunate realization divers at once. In the that his mask had been left behind. centre, a chimney Without a spare on the boat, I ascends towards the surface, illuminating flatworms crawled amongst the rocky the passage overhangs. One of the more curious with dancing subjects was an incredibly lop-sided beams of starfish. One disproportionately large arm light. The was surrounded by a quartet of much rocky interior smaller ones. Manasa told me later the is home to big arm was probably the original and a variety the others had re-grown from it. of shrimps, Shortly afterwards, he motioned me crabs and over to a crevice under a large rock. nudibranchs. I surprised a small whitetip who made Hiding underneath was one of Shark Exiting the opposite side, a hasty retreat before I could snap a Reef’s resident Java morays. It was a big photo. Every square one too! For the next ten minutes, he metre was cloaked played a game of hide and seek with my with exuberant coral camera. Moments after retreating into growth. Lacy veils of a crevice, curiosity would get the better cascading fan corals of him and would cautiously peer out to competed with vivid check on my whereabouts. red and yellow whip corals. Large fans Lovo? sprouted from the Later in the day, I had a drink with rocky walls, while Courtney, the resort’s affable food and copious overhangs beverage manager. While perusing provided shelter for the dinner menu, I was intrigued by the abundant soldierfish, heading Lovo that was accompanied squirrelfish and a host by an enticing list of dishes. She went on underground oven. “We can put one on The rocky interior is home to of well-camouflaged to explain that a Lovo was a traditional this week if you’d like” she offered. As a a variety of shrimps, crabs and scorpionfish. The Fijian feast. A variety of dishes are diehard foodie, my arm didn’t have to ensuing hour flew by cooked over hot stones in a makeshift be twisted! nudibranchs. at a rapid clip and my

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run for the door screaming. The with coconut milk) In addition, plates centrepiece of the meal was the were piled high with chicken, lamb walu, still wrapped in the palm shoulder and lamb neck and raw fish in leaf and served with miti (onion coconut milk “cooked” with limejuice. Vegetable dishes included cassava, taro and palusami (taro leaf with corned beef.) The meal was incredible; by the end, I was so full I almost had to punch a new hole in my belt! camera was exhausted by the endless by the intense flames. was enclosed under a layer enormous photo ops. Unfortunately, the weather First up, an enormous walu (also know taro leaves before being covered with Country excursion had worsened by the time we finished as wahoo) had to be cleaned and a heavy tarpaulin and partially buried On my final day, I wanted to see some the dive, so we had to make our final prepared for cooking. Another lady was under a layer of earth. Incredibly, of the surrounding countryside. Joji, one dive of the morning at Shark Reef. It’s a busy at work making the fresh coconut everything was ready a mere 90 minutes of the barmen, agreed to take me out rough life diving in Fiji! milk, squeezing and straining clumps of later. By this time, the drizzle had turned for a spin in the resort four-wheel drive. the grated coconut flesh from a massive to a downpour. Removing the tarpaulin, A torrential downpour started as we Lovo day bowl. Taro leaves were stuffed with the thick clouds of smoke laden with enticing headed out early for the morning market Back at the resort it was Lovo day. I coconut milk, onion and corned beef aromas wafted into the rainy night, in the nearby town of Navua. A wooden wandered over after lunch to discover before being folded into neat parcels. revealing tantalising glimpses of the structure covered the major portion of preparations were well underway with Whole chickens were marinated in garlic, feast. the market, but a number of vendors the involvement of most of the resort’s ginger and soy sauce before being Finally it was time to eat. As it turned were huddled outside under a canopy of kitchen staff. The light drizzle that started meticulously wrapped in palm leaves. out, a sizable number of people had colourful umbrellas. falling did nothing to dampen everyone’s If that wasn’t enough, a couple of arrived from around the area. Word had Everyone was extremely friendly and enthusiasm. “Just how many people lobsters were added along with unlimited been sent out via the “Coconut Wire” posed readily for photos. I can imagine were you expecting?” I enquired, gazing numbers of taro roots. (word of mouth) and by notices put up what they must have thought of this at the of food that was laid When everything was ready, a bed in the shopping centre in nearby Pacific crazy foreigner taking pictures of them in out by the already blazing fire. Above it, of shredded cassava long sticks was Harbour. the rain! heaped on a platform of wooden planks, laid out above the hot stones and the There were enough meat dishes on the We then ventured indoors and was a mound of hot stones, superheated various items added in layers. Everything to make any die-hard vegetarian wandered amongst the myriad of stalls.

29 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Chinese trawler’s colour- travel ful propeller; Market vendor, Fiji Navua; Red-lined flabellina; Jane, one of Uprising Beach Resort’s ever-pleasant staff; Soft coral, Beqa Lagoon

good income as a result, so this is clearly a win-win situation. After all the close proximity to the sharks, what was the worst thing that happened? A spider bite, and that occurred aboard a domestic flight from to Toronto on the way home! Getting there Fiji’s Nadi airport is district’s serviced by more than 85 flights a verdant- week, with direct flights from Asia, forested hills. Australia, and Japan and Interspersed the Pacific. From North America, direct throughout flights are available from Los Angeles. the greenery Transfers to Pacific Harbour can be were cleared arranged by Beqa Adventure Divers or areas the Uprising Beach Resort Taxis are also sporting available at the airport, but are more The tables groaned under a bountiful patchwork expensive than pre-booked transfers. selection of colourful produce, spices fields of cassava and taro. Stopping by Visitors from most countries are issued and fresh fish. On a series of tables near one farm, we were given huge chunks a four-month tourist free of charge visa the back were objects resembling large of freshly cut watermelon, the perfect upon arrival. All visitors must have a brown highway pylons constructed antidote to the humid morning. return ticket. out of gnarly roots. Pulverized into Before I knew it, it was time to leave powdered form and mixed with for the airport. I’d come for the sharks When to go water, they make kava, Fiji’s national but discovered so much more. With its Due to the moderating effects of beverage. Long playing an integral exhilarating blend of sharks, stunning the surrounding ocean, Fiji enjoys a role in traditional Fijian society, it is coral reefs and superb macro, Beqa mild climate for most of the year with consumed in ceremonies as well as has it all! During my six dives at Shark hovering around 25 a social beverage and a cure-all for Reef, I saw more sharks than I’ve seen degrees Celsius. Humidity is generally various ailments. One of the fellows I’d during my entire 500+ logged dives! high. The rainy season extends between been diving sampled a glass during a Shark feeding doesn’t come without November and April. It’s wise to book day trip to a local village. He likened a degree of controversy. Some argue the shark dives well as far in advance it to brown dishwater that makes your that feedings promote un-natural as possible. For bull sharks, the largest lips go numb. One of the vendors behaviour and the sharks become congregations can be found between asked if I’d like to partake in a glass. dependent on it. On the other hand, January and May. Be sure to book the The prospect didn’t sound particularly the establishment of the marine reserve Shark Dives before leaving home, as appetizing, especially at 7:30 in the not only protects the sharks but the they are becoming extremely popular morning on an empty stomach, so I host of other fish found in the area. and the trips fill up very quickly. On one politely declined. Sharks are more numerous now than day, several people who showed up at The rest of the morning was spent before the reserve was established, the dive shop at the last minute were exploring the back through the and the local villages are earning a turned away. ■

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RIGHT: Location of Fiji on world map

FAR RIGHT: Map of South Pacific Ocean Fiji and its islands factFiji file

Vanua Levu Lambasa

Savusavu Taveuni Lautoka Levuka Viti Levu History In 1970, Fiji became an inde- more equitable constitution was enact- Protection, Tropical pendent nation, after being a British ed. In 1999, free and peaceful elections Timber 83, Tropical colony for almost a century. Two military resulted in an Indo-Fijian government. Timber 94, Kadavu coups in 1987 interupted a Democratic However, in May 2000, a civilian-led rule. The coups were spurred by concern coup brought with it a long, drawn out Economic Fiji has for- over a government that was thought to period of political turmoil. In 2001, par- est, mineral, and fish re- be dominated by the Indian community liamentary elections provided Fiji with sources and is one of the most made up of descendants of contract a democratically elected government developed of the Pacific island laborers who were brought to the islands led by Prime Minister Laisenia Qarase economies, yet it still has a large subsist- Ceva-i-Ra in the 19th century by the British. Heavey who was re-elected in May 2006, only ence sector. Major sources of foreign Population 918,675 Indian emigration followed the coups to be ousted in a December 2006 mili- exchange include tourism (with 300,000- (July 2007 est.) Ethinic groups: Fijian and a 1990 constitution that cemented tary coup led by Commodore Voreqe 400,000 tourists annually), sugar exports, 54.8% (predominantly Melanesian native Melanesian control of Fiji. The loss Bainimarama, who then appointed him- and remittances from Fijians working with a Polynesian admixture), Indian of population caused economic dif- self acting president. Bainimarama was abroad. Fiji sugar enjoys special access 37.4%, other groups 7.9% (European, ficulties, while ensuring that Melanesians finally appointed interim prime minister to European Union markets, but will suffer other Pacific Islanders, Chinese) (2005 es- became the majority. In 1997, a new in January 2007. Government: republic. from the EU’s decision to cut sugar sub- timate). Religions: Christian 53% (Method- Capital: Suva (on Viti Levu) sidies. One-third of industrial activity in Fiji ist 34.5%, Roman Catholic 7.2%, Assembly is sugar processing, but it is not efficient. of God 3.8%, Seventh Day Adventist 2.6%, Geography Fiji is part of . The 2006 coup damaged Fiji’s tourism in- other 4.9%), Hindu 34% (Sanatan 25%, It is an island group in the South Pacific dustry. The length of the industry’s recov- Arya Samaj 1.2%, other 7.8%), Muslim 7% Ocean, located two-thirds of the way ery time is uncertain. Long-term problems (Sunni 4.2%. other 2.8%), other or unspeci- from Hawaii to New Zealand. Fiji includes range from low investment and uncer- fied religions 5.6%, none 0.3% (1996 cen- 332 islands; about 110 are inhabited. tain land ownership rights to the govern- sus). Internet users: 80,000 (2006) Terrain: mostly mountains developed by ment’s difficulties in managing its budget. volcanic activity. Lowest point: Pacific However, increases in overseas remit- Languages English (official), Fijian (offi- Ocean 0 m. Highest point: Tomanivi 1,324 tances from Fijians working in Kuwait and cial), Hindustani m. Coastline: 1,129 km Iraq are significantly. Natural resources: timber, fish, gold, copper, offshore oil Deco Chambers Climate is tropical marine with only potential, hydropower. Agriculture: sug- Suva Private Hospital slight seasonal changes. arcane, coconuts, cassava (tapioca), Emergency numbers: Natural : cyclonic storms may oc- rice, sweet potatoes, bananas; cattle, 999 3500 Hyperbaric Doctor: cur between November and January. pigs, horses, goats; fish. Industries: tourism, Dr Ali Husnoor, Lami, Suva sugar, clothing, copra, gold, silver, lum- 999 3506 National Coordinator: Environmental issues deforesta- ber, small cottage industries Curly Carswell, Savusavu tion and soil erosion. Fiji is party to sev- [email protected] eral international agreements including Currency Fijian dollar (FJD) Biodiversity, Climate Change, Climate Exchange rates: 1EUR = 2.75FJD, 1USD = Colonial War Memorial Hospital Web sites Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, 1.63FJD, 1GBP = 3.30FJD, 1AUD = 1.35FJD, Suva, Fiji Islands. Operated by Ministry of Fiji Tourism Board Endangered Species, Law of the , 1SGD = 1.07FJD SOURCE: XE.COM Health, contact: Dr. Frances A. Bingwor, www.bulafiji.com ■ Conservation, Layer [email protected] SOURCE: SCUBA-DOC.COM Siblings hug on the friendly islands of Fiji 31 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Macro life abounds. LEFT: Most of the rockfaces are well covered with a variety of marine life. These soft corals are quite common in nordic waters.

Wet’n wild at the circle

SaltstraumenText by Christian Skauge Photos by Stein Johnsen Translated and edited by Arnold Weisz

The current grabs you as soon our drive to , which basi- of gravity creates enormous as you enter the water. Your cally is a bridge and a few houses, is , which the water transforms into nothing but spectacular with snow- one of nature’s many wonders—the first thought, this is going to covered mountains raising out of the malstroem, or whirlpools. The current be a wild one! The adrenalin . sweeping through the sound cre- is flowing as fast in your veins ates the malstroem, which makes the as the currents is flowing past Tidal current water boil. They appear as sudden as The difference between high they vanish—huge sucking whirlpools, kelp covered rocks. Diving and low tide in the area around with a diameter of up to 10-12 metres, the strongest malstroem on Saltstraumen can be as much as sucking in water just like a black hole the planet is not for the faint- three metres. The currents force about sucks in surrounding stars. hearted. It is extremely fun 400 cubicmetres of water through A lot of stories circulate about a sound, which is barely 150 metres boats that have vanished in though! wide and three kilometres long. The Saltstraumen. And when you person-

The excitement is felt already one the plane as we fly north an hour and half from , the capital of . Passing over our final destination on- route, clear blue skyes gives us the first glimpses of our divesites in the days to come. We can see the white waters rushing through narrow sounds as the tide drags the ocean into the deep . A few minutes later we are landing in Bodø, the regional capital in northern Norway, just north of the Arctic circle. Our accomondation and the divesites are about a 30-minute drive from the airport. The scenery on

There are numerous divesites in the Saltstraumen area, most reachable only by boat, but there are also some shoredives 32 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Saltstraumen conven- iently situated just a few minutes adventure boat ride from most dive sites ally encounter the raw forces of this mighty natural phenomenon, it is not hard to understand and respect the awe and fascination it inspires in any per- son. Although flying many hundreds of metres above , we could clearly observe the awesome forces in play. My dive buddy and I gave each other an awe-filled glance. This is where we were going to be diving over the next few days. The drive east from Bodø took just about half an hour. We hardly had time enough to unpack and put our equip- ment together before it was announced that the was ready to depart. As the excitement had already built up a great amount of adrenalin in both of us, we were quick to respond. In no time, we were both suited up in drysuits. The dive boat always leaves on time. Not just rent, which was still going strong. Not to because the dive captain is well organ- worry, as our guides knew exactly where ized, but also because you have to dive to go. They gave us a thorough briefing precisely between the low and high about the first dive site—the tunnel! We when there is no current, and it is safe to were told what to expect from the cur- dive. If you miss the window of opportu- rent, what we could expect to see and nity, the currents get way too strong, and also where to shelter from the current to you have to wait for the next chance, get good photo-ops. The casual conver- which will be six hours later. sation slowly died down, and we waited for the signal to role into the water. As In a squeeze we quickly descended to a depth of 20 The boat maneuvered through the cur- metres, the visibility got better the deep- er we got. When we approached the bottom, it became very clear which direction we had to swim: with the current. The other direction was simply not an option. We adjusted our positions and floated along with the current and concentrated on avoiding crashing into rocks or other divers. The marine life was incredible. We observed wolffish resting on the stony seafloor and long leaves of kelp waiv- ing in the current. Turning our eyes to the blue water, we could see schools of coalfish turned against the current and ABOVE: Seen clearly from a helicopter, the current standing so tightly together that the mass rips past the small island in the middle of Saltstraumen of fish looked like a massive steel object. creating whirlpools dangerous for even ship traffic Sometimes, we found calm waters behind some rock formations, which ena-

33 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED adventure Saltstraumen

Snorkelen Duikmateriaal

a pothole. We in a small by the name of swam through and Kaffekjelen, which is Norwegian for Tek-Diving came out a few coffepot. As we descended, we metres deeper. The went through several metres of red tunnel was just wide algeas, which actually resembled Diversen enough for a diver coffee grounds! Fortunately, the vis- to squeeze through. ibility improved greatly, as we sank What an experience deeper into the fjord. this dive turned out Sweeping our dive lights across to be! the bottom revealed a spectacu- lar array of marine life. An amaz- Night dive in www.lucasdivestore.nl the coffee pot bled us to take some pictures, but The evening was spent reliving the most of the time, we cruised along past day’s events in conversation with the mighty forces of nature. and preparing our night diving When we started the dive, just equipment. A dive during the day before the tides were turning, the in Saltstraumen is an unforgetable current had became weaker. experience; we were therefore Eventually, it stopped completely. full of expectation for the up- After a short break, the current start- coming night dive. ed to pick up slowly in the opposite It was calm and dark since direction. we were diving in the month of Maandag t/m zaterdag gehele dag open, We were on our way to the rock- March. The summers here are LUCAS DUIKSPORT NEDERLAND donderdag koopavond formation which gave name to the dominated by the midnight sun, Bedrijvenweg 3A, 7442 CX Nijverdal, Snel bereikbaar vanaf A1 / E8 dive site: the Tunnel. Over thousands hence real night diving is restrict- Telefoon 0548 - 615106 Afslag Hellendoorn of years, ice and water had carved ed to the rest of the year. Fax 0548 - 611769 its way through the rock and made The captain dropped us off Email: [email protected] (bedrijvenpark 't Lochter) Website: www.lucas-diving.com DIVING INTERNATIONAL Levering ook per post! A small hermitcrab klings to a kelp leaf 34 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED adventure Saltstraumen

Sundstraumen to the left, and Saltstrauemen to th right. The huge exchange of water provides excellent conditions for the marine life, and especially anemones thrive here

brother, and the tidal currents are as strong, if not stronger, and make the dive site resemble a river. The diving condi- tions are not as unpredicable as in the Saltstraumen as the seafloor is less wild. The boat ride there gives you a combined exprience of nature and history. If you look carefully, you can see the notch made by the viking king, Olav Tryggvason, when he threw his axe into the sound in anger because the strong currents prevented him from entering the calm waters inside. Olav Tryggvason was on his way to Christianize another viking chief-of-tribe, Raud den Rame. He was believed to control the forces of wind and weather. As Olav Tryggvason’s men were not strong enough to row his ship through the sound, he summoned bishop Sigurd to break the magic of Raud den Rame. With the bishop standing at the stem wearing his chasuble, and with the help of holy water and God’s strength, they forced their way through the strong current. The story further cites that the tribal chief did not ing diversity of animals and corals of different colours past allow himself be Christianized, so Olav Tryggvason cut it short, through our beams of light. Now and again, some fishes killed the tribal chief and stole his ship. crossed our path as well. And we could sense, if not always The mighty viking chief turned out to be as self-willed and see, that there were many more out there in the dark waters. unpredictable as the currents where he resided. That is a The dive went on without any big surprises, and we took a lot fantastic story to accompany a fantastic dive. of photographs to save the memories. High velocity diving The land of the Sundstraumen can be dived from both ends. We started our The next day we headed for some new dive sites in dive as the currents were travelling into the fjord. We rolled Sundstraumen. This sound is on the south side of the into the fjord and descended down a steep wall, which was Saltstraumen. Sundstraumen is more narrow than its bigger completely covered with colourful anemones. In the begin-

You may stumble over Wolf fish (Anarhichas lupus) in Saltstraumen 35 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED adventure Saltstraumen

The bridge gives you a greate van- ning of the dive, when the currents were rather tion for good safety. A safe dive in Saltstraumen tage point to study your divesite weak, we could take our time and observe the and Sundstraumen comes down to knowing the before the dives. Saltstraumen is many small creatures, which made their living tide table, safe entry- and exit points both for situated in Northern Norway above amongst the anemones. At first, the current led - and boatdiving. This will ensure you a life- the Polar Circle, hence dry-suits are required all year us slowly along the wall, but after some time, time experience, submerged as well as onshore. it started to pick up. What started out to be a ■ TOP RIGHT: Saltstraumen is a fish- quiet drift became a much wilder ride. We just erman’s paradise, so you will went along with it, for what turned out to be an find a lot of fishing hooks awesome drift dive. Near the end of the dive, the marine life just swept past us in a foggy blur of colours. We managed to fin ourselves into a quiet backwater, where we did our safety stop. When we arrived at the surface, the dive boat was waiting for us. In the diveboat, we realised what a great distance we had drifted during our dive. Still, we had to go another kilometer further into the fjord to pick up the other two divers. These guys were locals and knew how to get the most out of the dive. Safe & fun diving It might seem a bit fool-hardy to dive currents like Saltstraumen and Sundstraumen. On the other hand, it can be made safely. The dive operators in the area have a long history of experience and know where and when to dive safely. These are amongst some of the best dive sites in Norway, and possibly in the world. As always in dealing with strong currents, dive with people who knows the area and have a reputa-

36 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Text and photos by The wreck of the Shillong lies at 223m Peter Collings just north of the July Oilfield, and at the time of writing has not been dived Shipwrecks of the of Suez

As the narrows at its northern extreme, a long thin arm of water stretches north towards the Mediterranean. It is the Gulf of Suez. Squeezed between the Sinai and the Egyptian mainland, the entrance to the Gulf is marked by a treacherous finger of reef known as Sha’ab Ali. A busy, narrow and important seaway dating back beyond the opening of the Suez Canal, it is a vital and important trade route linking east and west. It is also a hive of industry, with oilfields dotted along its length, and refineries along its banks. Here, we have located a series of new wrecks.

Not much diving takes place here. Heading north past Sha’ab Ali the first The coral reefs die away as the water , Ras Dib, heralds an area rich becomes shallower and indeed less clear in shipwrecks. First, are the Attiki and the due to the presence of and . Muhansia—both visible from the surface, Water temperature, too, plays a part in well salvaged and well “dispersed”. Lying the ecology, with temperatures plum- in only a dozen meters of water, they meting to 16°C in winter. While it is not a are home to many shoaling fish and very viable tourist area, it is a haven for new large examples of the endemic species unexplored shipwrecks—with the added of nudibranchs found elsewhere in the bonus of some unusual marine life. Red Sea but in greater numbers and larger than text books would suggest. Once more, there is a captain on the bridge of the Birchwood 37 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sinai peninsula Wreck of Lara Satellite photo of the southern Security near entrance to the Gulf of Suez. The shal- Ras Shukier low reef structure in the middle is the infamous Sha’ab Alo where so many ships have foundered

Rounding the headland, we find the Elliot, her superstructure above water is well embedded into the reef, her head- long grounding evident from the attitude of her rudder. Divers can enter the hull, swim through and into the engine room and take a walk around. Half a mile offshore where the It is hard to water is deeper and clearer, lie stop even three modern merchant ships—as when the day yet unidentified—in less than comes to an 50 meters of water. Discovered end. Zodiac during the 2004 Geoserve/SSS searching for Expedition, their secrets are yet to a wreck in the be unlocked and their stories yet very last rays untold. of sun At Ras Shukier, the hustle and bustle of the oil industry becomes very The wrecks in evident. Close to shore are two shallow complete with radar array and aerials. the northern wrecks, while again offshore there are Just forward of the superstructure itself Red Sea still several deeper wrecks. at the aft of the vessel is an intact crane, remain virtual- obviously used to service the hold. The ly untouched. Birchwood 11 (Plastics Wreck) criss-cross framework of the jib is covered There may Lying to the north of the port in a large with encrusting life. Superb swim-throughs well be less bay with three other wrecks there is a from the weather deck into the holds are coral in the small 50 meter motor cargo ship lying on easily accomplished, her cargo bags of Gulf of Suez, its starboard side in 12m of water. Totally polythene granules float hard against the but there is intact, light into the holds and port hull. The fo’c’s’le is easy to access still plenty to bathes the entire wreck. A of juve- and explore, and her winch gear, like explore nile barracuda circles her mast, which is many parts of the wreck is covered in

Scalaria, a 5683 ton steam tanker, was built n 1922

38 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Got them all? Gulf of Suez lies between the Sinai Gulf of Suez Trivia peninsula and The Gulf of Suez is the arm of the tion. Suez the African continent on Red Sea, 300 km long and 50 The main reasons for the bet- Both the Suez Gulf and the Suez the left. The km wide, that extends between ter development of reef systems Canal get their names from the gulf itself is rel- the Arabian Desert and the Sinai along the Red Sea is because city of Suez, which is situated on atively shallow Peninsula of Egypt. Along the of its greater depths and an the of the Gulf of Suez to as compared mid-line of the Gulf lies the bor- efficient water circulation pat- the west of the Suez Canal in to the rest of der between the continents of tern. The Red Sea water mass Egypt. the Red Sea Africa and Asia. exchanges its water with the The Suez Canal offers a signifi- The Gulf of Suez is a relatively Arabian Sea, Indian Ocean via cantly shorter passage for ships young rift basin, dating back 40 the Gulf of Aden. These physical than passing round the of Gulf of Suez million years. It is a shallow factors reduce the effect of high Good Hope. Today, the canal bed basin with depths rang- caused by evaporation is a vital link in world trade, and ing between 50 and 75m with and cold water in the north and contributes significantly to the depths increasing in the south- relatively hot water in the south. Egyptian economy. There was erly direction but stays under the Strong currents and atmos- a canal from the Nile delta to 100m mark at the confluence of pheric gradients con- the Gulf of Suez in ancient times, the Red Sea. trol the influx of less saline and when the gulf extended further The Red Sea lies between arid colder water from the Gulf of north than it does today. This fell land, desert and semi-desert, Aden through the Street of Bab into disuse, and the present canal and is unique among the of al Mandab during winter. The was built in the nineteenth cen- the world as no river flows into it. north-heading current mixes with tury. Since there is absence of rivers a south-heading wind-driven sur- The construction of the canal and permanent streams, terrig- face current from the northern was proposed by the engineer enous (derived from the erosion Red Sea. and French diplomat Ferdinand of rocks on land—ed.) material is A at a water de Lesseps, who acquired from Visit only supplied to the Red Sea by depth of about 200-400m sepa- Said Pasha the rights of con- www.xray-mag.com rain-torrent. The scarcity of rain- rates the mixing water zone from structing and operating the /issuearchive fall and no major source of fresh Red Sea Deep Water at relatively canal for a period of 99 years. water to the Red Sea result in the stable temperature and salinity Construction took 11 years, and excess evaporation as high as conditions. The maximum turbu- the canal opened on the 17th of 205 cm per yearr and high salin- lent mixing zone is probably in November, 1869. ■ X-RAY MAG Expands ity with minimal seasonal varia- the central Red Sea. Harald Apelt joins the team

HAMBURG, Former editor-in- chief of Tauchen, Europe’s biggest monthly dive magazine, Harald Apelt has joined X-RAY MAG as an associate publish- er. In this capac- Depth profile ity Harald will work of the Red with both editorial Sea. On this matters and over- map, one can see sales and mar- see that the Gulf keting. of Suez sits (upper left corner) in a shallow In 2008, X-RAY MAG will be published eight times a year

39 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Scalaria was sunk in 1942 as a result of an enemy aerial attack; eleven lives were lost. She lies in shal- low water, with only the lower hull remaining having been dismantled below the water- line

About the author Peter Collings has been escorting wreck safaris in Egypt since 1993. sponge and encrusting corals. Her bow nes, sponges and small crustaceans. The He is the author of no less than appears intact and a deep scour ran brilliant reds, oranges and greens high- nine dive-related books includ- along her keel, becoming circular by her lighted by torch beams. ing Shipwrecks of the Egyptian prop and rudder. Her starboard running Red Sea. His work has been pub- light lies protruding from the sand. Laura Security (The Eagle Wreck) lished internationally since 1983. Hundreds of nudibranchs smother the Close by, this 40m long vessel sits upright Peter and his team, the Red Wreck red sponge fingers found throughout with its bridge out of the water. It is Academy, have been responsible the wreck. of rabbit fish huddled named after the eagle, which made its for locating and identifying over together everywhere. Snowflake morays, roost on top of the wreck. Many of the 30 wrecks in Egyptian waters the again a rare occurrence on a , hull plates have fallen to the seabed latest being the Greek steamer are common place here. Almost every allowing sunlight to through its TURKIA. surface of the wreck is alive with anemo- vertical supports highlighting shoals of fish. The strong sunlight, afforded by the shallow depths, provides endless photo opportunities. With the hull intact, the bow and stern are very photogenic, and the supporting fish life is quite amazing. Due to its location, the wreck is blessed by the afternoon sun and the long beams of light shine through many holes in the wreck. Those who are not put off

Exploring the remains of The Bahr was sunk by the Scalaria on a good Israeli missiles during day with great visibility 1973 during the Yom can be a rewarding Kippur War. She lies in experience. Image is only 14m of water from the bow section

40 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED by the lack of depth are well round some two meters rewarded. deep. it seems man-made and full of snapper and jacks The “Pd” Wreck. so perhaps this is the answer. (D.b. Gemini) The American jack-up The target area of the drilling barge Gemini was SSS survey revealed some damaged while drilling off strange wreckage on the Ras Shukier. The sea bed seabed, including a large collapsed under one of circular . No wreck the legs on October 8th, was ever found but winches, 1974. Eighteen people died. ladders mooring cleats, ven- During salvage operations, it tilation cowls covering a vast rolled over almost capsizing, area—all attracting a reef’s bending all its legs. It was population of fish—was all written off as a total loss at a that could be seen. cost of £4.1 million, removed The aforementioned and broken up. depression is complety

Hitting pay dirt. Just look at Crane or boom on the those hapy grins. The name survey vessel Bahr plate from the Scalaria— depicted in a cleaned condi- tion on page 37—is brought to the surface

41 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Lost in 1988, the Aboudy is Reversing wheel in the still virtually intact. The entire engine room of the Scalaria wreck, which is teeming with life, can be explored Wreck of the Shillong Built at Vickers Armstrong, Walker Mar 1949, for the P&O LINE, the Shillong was 8934 tons the holds spilling out onto the sea- and 522 ft long. She was captained by E.. bed, and a diver can swim from Spurling and on a journey from London over the fo’c’s’le through her holds to Hamburg to Tsingtao with 87 crew and six the bridge section at the stern, passengers and carrying general cargo, where the engine room can also when she collided with the Purfina Congo. be found. She now rests in 223m, just north of the Marine life includes shoaling July Oilfield, in the separation , and barracuda and fusiliers, emperor at the time of writing, has not been dived. angle fish, crocodile fish, torpedo Hopefully, our forthcoming expeditions will rays and encrusting corals and locate her. sponges. Visibility is subject to , as the seabed consists of Ras Gharib sand. This headland again is a terminal for the oil industry and marks the limit of diving explora- Bahr tion. To the best of my knowledge, no one The motor survey vessel belonged else has ever been diving this far north. But to the United Arab Republic there is evidence to suggest at least another General Petroleum Co was sunk 20 wrecks are lying in these waters. Again, at Ras Gharib by Israeli missiles on October 14th, 1973, during the Yom Kippur War. Russian built, she was 416 tons, 147 ft long. She lies in only 14m of water. Scalaria Built in 1922 for the Anglo-Saxon Petroleum Co at Swan Hunters, this 5683 ton steam tanker was attacked by enemy aircraft using aerial torpedoes and bombs while off Ras Gharib with a cargo of dirty oil. She was sunk on October 19th, 1942, with the loss of 11 lives. Her captain, J.Waring survived. One of the ships officers, Mr Armatage, was awarded the George cross and the Lloyds there are several very interesting cargo of cattle, aluminum extru- medal for his actions in saving the wrecks in shallow water with more sion and thousands of 300ml bot- lives of his fellow crewmen as they lying in deeper water. tles of cough medicine! Laying on clung to her anchor chain, sur- her side totally intact, her masts rounded by burning oils. She was Aboudy running horizontal towards the 411 ft long, 55 ft beam and 30 ft A small aluminum hulled, 400ton shore, her stays still in place, she is draught, capable of ten knots cargo ship 76m long, sank May slowly succumbing to the invasion and fitted with triple expansion 7th, 1988. She was carrying a of marine life. The entire wreck engines. She lies in shallow water, can be explored, sheltered from with only the lower hull remaining Thousands of bottles of cough any swell from the exposed open having been dismantled below medicine lie around the Aboudy sea. Remnants of the cargo lie in the waterline. ■

42 X-RAY MAG : 19 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED West SYRIA Mediterranean Sea Bank Damietta Port Gaza Dead tile your bath Alexandria Said Strip Sea Marsá Maţrūh Tanţa Suez IS. Shubrā Canal with nudibranchs al Khayman JORDAN Cattara Suez Affectionately Depression Al Jīzah CAIRO SINAI known as the fact file Sīwah Al Fayyūm orchids of the Mount Red Sea, Egypt Catherine SAUDI Al Minyā ARABIA sea, nudibranchs Al come in lots of World map and map of Egypt Ghardaquah Sharm ash delicate shapes Shaykh Asyūţ and vibrant Nile Būr colours Safājah SOURCE: WWW.CIA.GOV Red

LIBYA Al Khārljah Luxor Sea History One of the world’s great Dam in 1971 and the resultant the dominance of Nile basin issues. civilizations was born on the banks Nasser. Even so, dependence The country is also prone to influxes of the Nile. Due to the richness and on the Nile continues, and with a of refugees. Aswān regularity of the annual flooding of rapidly growing population—the the Nile River as well as the semi- Arab world’s largest—and limited Climate Desert—hot, dry sum- Lake isolation of the created by arable land, resources and society mers with moderate winters. Natu- Nasser the surrounding deserts, the rise continue to be stressed. The gov- ral hazards: periodic droughts; a Hafā’ib Triangle of a unified kingdom around 3200 ernment has initiated economic hot, driving windstorm called kham- B.C. brought a series of dynasties reforms and massive investments sin occurs in springtime; dust storms, into power in Egypt for the next in communications and physical sandstorms; frequent earthquakes, SUDAN three millennia. In 341 B.C., the infrastructure in an effort to ready flash floods, landslides last native dynasty fell to invad- the economy for the new millen- living standards remain the same Population 80,335,036 Get your cool ing Persians who in turn were nium. Government: Republic. Legal Environmental issues Deserti- for the average Egyptian despite (July 2007 est.). Ethnic groups: high quality replaced by the Greeks, Romans, system: Based on English common fication—agricultural land is being these achievements, compelling Egyptian 98%; Berber, Nubian, ceramic tiles with and Byzantines. It was the Arabs law, Islamic law and Napoleonic lost to windblown and ur- the government to continue to Bedouin and Beja 1%, Greek; photographs of in the 7th century who introduced codes. Capital: Cairo banization. Soil salination below the provide subsidies for basic neces- Armenian and other European brightly coloured Islam and spread the Arabic lan- Aswan High Dam is increasing. Oil sities. These subsidies have helped (primarily Italian and French) beautiful nudibranchs guage and religion throughout the Geography Egypt occupies pollution is threatening coral reefs, increase a growing budget deficit 1%. Religions: Muslim (mostly by Nonoy Tan of region over the next six centuries. the northeast corner of the African and . Ad- continue to be a significant drain Sunni) 90%, Coptic 9%, other the Philippines Around the year 1250, a local continent. It borders the Mediterra- ditional water pollution comes from on the economy and foreign direct Christian religions1%. Internet and Scott Bennett military caste, the Mamluks, took nean Sea—between Libya and the agricultural pesticides, raw sew- investment continue to be low, users: 5 million (2005) of Canada — control. They continued to govern Gaza Strip—and the Red Sea north age and industrial effluents. There however, export sectors—espe- just $8.99 each! the country after the Ottoman of Sudan, and includes the Asian are very limited natural cially natural gas—show positive Languages Arabic (official), Plus, a percent Turks conquered Egypt in 1517. In Sinai Peninsula. Coastline: 2,450 resources away from the Nile River, prospects. Agriculture: cotton, rice, English and French is under- of all sales 1869, the Suez Canal was com- km. Terrain: Vast desert plateau is which provides the only perennial corn, wheat, beans, fruits, vegeta- stood by educated classes goes to help pleted and Egypt became an interrupted by the Nile River valley water source. Rapid population bles, goats, sheep, cattle, water save their important center for world trade. and delta. Lowest point: Qattara growth is overstraining the Nile River buffalo. Industries: textiles, food Deco Chambers home — However, it also fell heavily into Depression,133 m. Highest point: and other natural resources. processing, tourism, chemicals, Sharm El Sheikh the sea! debt. In order to protect its invest- Mount Catherine, 2,629 m. Egypt pharmaceuticals, hydrocarbons, Hyperbaric Medical Center ments, Great Britain seized control controls the Sinai Peninsula—the Economic In the last three dec- construction, cement, metals, light (069) 6609223 EMERG of Egyptian government in 1882. only land bridge between Africa ades, the Egyptian government manufactures. Natural resources: (012) 2124292 However, some allegiance to the and the remaining Eastern Hemi- has reformed the highly centralized petroleum, natural gas, iron ore, Dahab: Deco International Ottoman Empire maintained influ- sphere. Egypt also controls the Suez economy handed down from Presi- phosphates, manganese, lime- Emergency (012) 1653806 ence in Egypt until 1914. Egypt Canal—a sea link and major trade dent Nasser. Energy subsidies, and stone, gypsum, talc, asbestos, lead, Hurghada: El-Gouna Hospital gained partial independence from route between the Indian Ocean personal and corporate tax rates zinc. EMERGENCY (012) 2187550 the UK in 1922 and acquired full and Mediterranean Sea. Becuase were reduced, and several enter- Naval Hospital Hurghada sovereignty following World War of its size and juxtaposition to Israel, prises were privatized in 2005 by Currency Egyptian (065) 3544195 II. The time-honored place of the Egypt plays a major role in Mid- Prime Minister Ahmed Nazif. There pound (EGP). Exchange rate: Marsa Alam: Marsa Shagra Nile River in the agriculture and dle Eastern geopolitics. However, was a stock market boom, and 1EUR=7.69EGP, 1USD=5.69EGP, (065) 443156 ■ ecology of Egypt was altered by Egypt does continue to depend on GDP grew by about 5 percent for 1GBP=11.25EGP, 1AUD=4.69EGP, the x-ray mag store the completion of the Aswan High upstream neighbors and deal with the next two years. Unfortunately, 1SGD=3.73SGD www.cafepress.com/xraymag

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