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DESCRIPTION OF SITES IN ACADIA NATIONAL PARK SELECTED FOR EVALUATION AS NATIONAL NATURAL LANDMARKS BY THE CRITICAL AREAS PROGRAM

,,,,.,,, .,../·: '. ~. /! / _,~. _ s ..1.i.,· t. es. Eval_~::~.n Year One: 198 9 t:t·~v-vrc,r~~ ,o&-~ .:(,.,r-··--:7 LI'11TLE MOOSE ISLAND - The second. best example of A HEADLAND PLANT COMMUNITY WITH PLANT COMMUNITIES OF ARCTIC-ALPINE AFFINITY known for coastal Maine. A number of unusual and rare boreal plant species extend their southern limit along the coast of eastern Maine because of the maritime environment, with cool summers, extensive fog, abundant rainfall and windswept coastal ledges. I f\ )/ An unusually rich assemblage of plants of arctic-alpine affinity , . j~\ ,Ware found <;in Little M<;>ose Island, includi1:1g: Beachhead ~ris ( Iris ~i Iv ~. J·setosa, Maine Watch list)~ Pearlwort (Sagina nodosa, Maine r ·v Special Concern), Blinks (Montiq lamprosperma, Maine Special ./t~·h l, concern), Marsh Felwort {Lomatogonium rotatum, Maine Special JJIJI. J' l r ·. ~ c~mcern) .' Birds-.eye .P.rimr·o· se ( Primula laurentiana, Maine Watch') J ·, \J;I;! List), Roseroot stonecrop (Sedum rosea), and Oysterleaf j')jFfa}rl: ~ (Mertensia maritima). Other boreal species on Little Moose ~ ~~ \~, Island incl.ude. Mo.untain s.andwo. rt (Minuartia groenlandica, Main / , 'xi. J.> Watch List) and Jack Pine (Piny_§. banksiana). Diverse features of the 30-acre island include a small bog with the orchid swamp Pink · (Arethusa bulbosa, Maine ·watch List), a small salt marsh, and a rocky granite shoreline with cliffs, cobble beaches, and diabase dikes. The island is listed on the Register of Critical Areas.

1 BIG HEATH - Ranks among the five best examples of COASTAL RAISED } PEATLANDS in Maine. These peatlands define a specialized climatic and ecological region that is globally limited in ~· ~··

extent, and considered unique in North America and possibly the . 1 world. Big Heath displays features characteristic of coastal ~ ~JN raised peatlands including a clearly raised plateau topography .\\~' l,~ with a flat or convex upward surface and steep margins (different .~1(\J from the domed topography of inland raised peatlands), coastal JJV plant c'?mm1:1ni ties (with abundant liche1;s, black

BASS HARBOR HEAD - A good example of a COASTAL SPRUCE-FIR FOREST and one of the most extensive stands of white spruce known for the coast of Maine. The conifer-dominated boreal forest extends its range south along the coast of Maine due to the cool moist climate. Red spruce is usuall~ the predominant species with balsam fir present in lesser quantities. White spruce occurs primarily a.long the shoreline and in other exposed areas subject to strong winds and blowdown. The forest floor is covered with ·. abundant mosses and liverworts, and many tree surface lichens are present: Coastal spruce-fir forests in thin soils may suffer blowdown befcire tr~es ar~ 100 years old and much of the forest in Maine has been disturbed by fire or lumbering. The few remaining undisturbed stands are located in parks, preserves and large private estates. Another significant stand in Acadia National Park is located at the summit of Bernard Peak on the Western Mountains, listed on the Register of critical Areas.

SCHOODIC HEAD & POINT - Second largest and densest stands of JACK PINE (PINUS BANKSIANA) IN A ROCKY HABITAT in Maine. Jack Pine is a northern species with a small distribution in northeastern U.S. Several large stands over 1,000 acres in size occur on sandstone bedrock in upstate New York. Many other stands are scattered across northern New Engla.nd states. in sandy habitats and rock /ldb: outcrops. The Jack Pine on S9_hood.t_~---~enin§J:!!_a covers 500 ~s .,;?? ·?, "',m.ol and is exceptional for the variety of growth forms that occur. C'f! r- Tlte trees range in form from windswept:---and"" stunted on the summit /f!Aif'U'­ of Schoodic Head to moderately tall forest-grown trees in pr.otected areas to low spreading bushes in protected rock crevices on the immediate coast. The Schoodic Peninsula Jack · is listed on the Register of critical Areas. ,' I .~~D BEACH - Best example of a COLD WATER CALCA~E~US___ BEACH--ln-ih;··------J ·.. l Uni!ed States outside of southeastern Alaska. Ca~care~>Us J ,JI.>·f~ 4 °'· .1 1~ediments are also referred to as shell hash or biogenic {?{'.l)Cf!A;T P~· ('B::arbonate sand. Warm water calcareous beaches are common in c:V,,t.tf/:,, ~ tropical areas and are composed of bioch mical precipitates. Cold )Jt,_,->e,,,k-;.,-,( water calcareous beaches are composed mainly7 of skeletal ;J!,;.4'r'4 ~ ~ & fragments of. b':rna<:les, mol;usks and ech~noderms. The cold waterA 1 -11:J;zt:C-?. , _'9 _ beaches are mainta.ined by highly productive local sources of ./)/J--{,,, ~-1a' iY ) shells, a scarcity of mineral sand and a balance of wave CW-~- .-c,, ~ ~ J} conditions. The sediments at sand Beach are 70-85% calcareous. ~t) '~ \lf., \ f sand Beach is further significant for. its well-developed dunes ,~-cL--on-JW M }~ healthy population of American Beach Grass, marked seasonal 1 ;f ,\i profile change, and seasonally closed pocket barrier (which ;/£~·.,().)/ ~; ~~J causes s.easonal changes in lagoon salinity). Sand Beach is '\,::Ar)1;;,J 1 _.1- }1 list~~tg;t~itic~=~~~------~~u ~ if~ES SOUND - Be';'t ex'.'mple of a FJORD . SHORELI~E on the east coast ... / of the u.s. A fJord is a valley deepened by ice below sea level, then flooded by the sea. Some geologists claim that Somes Sound is only "fjord-like." Worldwide there are better examples of fjords, but Somes Sound has characteristic features including a narrow, straight, steep-walled valley of great depth that cuts through mountainous terrain, relatively flat floors, a shallow rocky threshold (entrance), and a hanging valley. Man-o-War Brook is a tributary stream whose mouth is higher than the floor of Somes Sound as a result of more rapid deepening of the main (----..,\) . 2 \~Jfi~ -/Ill~~ ,Y 4 v~~P~~F ·.,·;;, v ~ .. L ; .. ~·- ~· l". ~. ,..-:. ._ .... ,: .•· t'C:

valley of the fjord and is considered a hanging valley. Some special features of Somes Sound include historical nesting sites for Peregrine Falcons at the Valley cove cliffs (these were last occupied in 1930-1940), Jack Pine stands near the southeast limit of its range on the east shpre of.the Sound, and Scrub Oak near the northeast limit of its range on the west shore of the sound.

DAY MOUNTAIN - EMERGED SHORELINE FEATURES such as wave-cut cliffs a~d wave-built beaches found on present day hillsides mark positions occupied by ancient sea levels over 12,000 years ago. The weight of glacial ice depressed the earths crust and caused marine invasion of the coastal region, followed by crustal rebound during deglaciation. In Maine, the marine invasion extended inland over 50 miles to an elevation of 270 feet above present sea level. Most emerged shoreline features are faintly developed because emergence took place quickly. However, Acadia has some distinct emerged wave-cut rocky cliffs and beaches due to its exposed (seaward) location. The cobble beach located on Day Mountain is virtually intact (and is extremely vulnerable to visitor disturbance). Oth~r prominent emerged beaches in Maine are located in glaciomarine deposits in Cherryfield and Columbia Falls (both listed on the Register of Critical Areas.)

WESTERN HEAD, ISLE AU HAUT - The shoreline of Western Head on Isle au Haut displays fine exposures of~COASTAL VOLCANIC BEDROCK. Exposures of volcanic bedrock along the New England coast represent what was once an arc of active volcanic islands. The remaining solidified lava flows and ash provide valuable insights into the late Cambrian and Ordovician geological history of eastern North America. Some of the features found in Maine's coastal volcanic bedrock include pillow basalts, pyroclastic fragments, bombs, columnar jointing and evidence of volcanic vents. The coastal volcanic bedrock in Maine is generally resistant to erosion and forms rugged coastal features such as rock headlands, steep cliffs, sea caves, and blow holes. The volcanic bedrock is more intensely fractured than the neighboring granite and weathers with more jagged edges and fractures into smaller particles, forming pebble beaches rather than cobble beaches. Western Head bedrock displays lava flow banding, tuff breccia, diabase dikes, vesicular structures, spherulites and contact with a granite pluton. Coastal landforms include steep sea cliffs, a blow hole and pebble and cobble beaches with highly rounded stones. The shoreline supports Beachhead Iris (Iris setosa, Maine Watch List) and the waters immediately offshore provide important wintering habitat for Harlequin Ducks (Histrionicus histrionicus, Maine Special Concern).

BAKER ISLAND SHORELINE - A high quality example of a GRANITE BEDROCK SHORELINE. The impressive storm slab seawall on the seaward shore is the best known example of its type in the eastern U.S. and illustrates the interaction of wave processes with the distinctive sheeting fractures and vertical joint

3 systems of granite. The shoreline supports Oysterleaf and Beach Head Iris. ·

SCHOODIC PENINSULA SHORELINE- A high quality example of· a GRANITE BEDROCK SHOREL;I:NE with step-like ledges, cliffs, cobble beaches, diabase dikes, chasms and blow holes. The step-like crevices in the bedrock create a significant habitat for marine invertebrates (listed on the register of Critical Areas). The complex of diabase dikes provide textbook quality illustrations for geological field trips. Other special features of the shoreline include Jack Pine stands and headland plant communities.

OTTER CLIFFS SHORELINE - A high quality example of a GRANITE BEDROCK SHORELINE that displays excellent exposures of Cadillac Mountain granite and also displays evidence of plutonic intrusion at a contact with another bedrock type (Nominated for listing on the register of critical Areas). High quality examples of .. granite coastal landforms include a steep sea cliff, two boulder beaches (both nominated for listing on the Register of Critical Areas), and a sea stack. The cliffs provide habitat for nesting seabirds and diverse intertidal species.

PORCUPINE ISLANDS - As a group, an excellent example of a rocky shoreline capped by gabbro-diorite bedrock. The four islands, Sheep Porcupine, Burnt Porcupine, Long Porcupine and Bald Porcupine, display accentuated glacial and coastal landforms due to the bedrock influence. The overlying resistant layer of gabbro-diorite serves as a protective cap for the weaker underlying rock beds of the metasedimentary Bar Harbor Series. Marine processes interacting with the rock layers of varying resistance create classic conditions for the formation of sea caves and rock arches. Glacial plucking has resulted in steep, straight-sided shores with high sea cliffs. Guillemonts nest in the cliffs. The islands are cloaked with coastal spruce-fir forests which provide nesting and roosting habitat for several pairs of American Bald Eagles. Bald Porcupine Island is listed on the Register of critical Areas for its population---of rare luminous cave moss ( Schistostega pennati). -=-d~-oµ

4 SITES IN ACADIA NATIONAL PARK SELECTED FOR EVALUATION AS NATIONAL NATURAL LANDMARKS BY THE CRITICAL AREAS PROGRAM

Sites Evaluated in Year Two: 1990 (Preliminary list 5/90)

DUCK HBR MTN; IAH - COASTAL SUBALPINE HEATH/KRUMHOLTZ COMMUNITY

SARGENT MTN - 11

PEMETIC MTN - "

CADILLAC MTN - II /~ GREAT MEADOW, IAH - BOG WITH DISJUNCT COASTAL PLAIN SPECIES - .~/{):,.

ACADIA MTN - PITCH PINE - SCRUB OAK COMMUNITY IN ROCKY HABITAT

DUCK HARBOR/MEDIAN RIDGE IAH - PITCH PINE IN ROCKY HABITAT~-\

CHAMPLAIN/DORR MTN - II

OTTER VALLEY - OPEN ENDED GLACIAL TROUGH

EAGLE LAKE VALLEY -

JORDAN POND VALLEY - LONG POND VALLEY - "

Other possible sites:

BERNARD PEAK - COASTAL SPRUCE-FIR FOREST BASS HARBOR MARSH - community classification to be determined . ' SCIENCE AND RESOURCE MANAGEMENT PROGRAM 1990

Park conduc1:.ed studies and monitoring:

Lyme Disease/Distribution of Ticks on Small Mammals Purple Loosestrif e Control Sand Beach Dynamics Beayer Management

Cooperative Efforts:

Lyme Disease E.cology in Maine Maine Medical Center Air Quality Monitoring NPS- Air Quality Division Vis i b ilit:y . Particulates Ozone, S02 NADP Monitoring (Acid Deposition) Natl. Atmos. Dep. Program Harlequin Duck Ecology Island Research Center/COA Lake Monitoring State of Maine Water Resources Management Plan (Scoping Report) NPS - Water Quality Div. Eagle Population Monitoring Maine Dept. I. F. & Wildlife

Contracted Science:

Fisher Reintroduction U.S. Fish & Wildlife S.pruGe Greuse Surveyy·· U. Maine/Orono Intertidal Zone Monitoring Bigelow Laboratories Endangered/Threatened Plant Survey College of the Atlantic Inventory & Monitoring . College of the Atlantic Jack Pine Ecology Dartmouth Air Quality Effects on Vegetation U. New Hampshire, etc. Mammalian Carnivore Ecology U. Maine/Orono Herbivore Effects on Vegetation U. Maine/Orono Acid Rain Impacts U. Maine/Orono Fire History/Lake Sediment Cores U. Mass/Amherst

Independent Studies:

Waters.hed Ecology Harvard Spruce Genetics U. Maine/Orono Acid Fog/Effects on Spruce U. Maine/Orono Dragonflies U. Delaware White Pine Deel ine Penn State U. Granitic Chemistry on I.A.Haut U. Mass/Amherst