2. REGIONAL OFFICES AND THEIR REGIONS

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Antananarivo Antsirabe Diego Suarez Fianarantsoa Mahajanga Morondava Nosy Be At present Madagascar has twelve Regional offices affiliated with Sainte Marie the National Tourism Office. Each coincides with their administrative SAVA regions, but some key tourism spots, such as Nosy Be or Sainte Marie, Toamasina have their own Offices, and others may be created according to the Taolagnaro same criteria to promote them. Toliara

17 Antananarivo Antananarivo, with its rich history and (Tananarive) picturesque qualities, is one of the most unique capitals in the world. Originally built like a fortress on a hilltop, it subsequently spread to the neighbouring knolls, stretched to the slopes and transformed the marshes below. In less than a century, from the middle-ages to modern times, the population has risen from 50,000 to nearly 2 million, Antananarivo is known for its steep- • The Sacred Hills. There are12 sacred hills in tana, which symbolize the kingdom and sloped streets, endless total, depending on the sources, and the the aviavy, which represent nobility. The- stairways, and traditional houses nestling against most reputed ones are: the set of 3 hills re is a wide variety of hiking trails around each other and offering forming Analamanga, the original site this area as well. their verandas to the of Antananarivo; Ambohimanga, where setting sun. Andrianampoinimerina’s conquests • Along RN1 leading to the volcanic region began and classified as a World Heritage of Itasy, tourists will find theL emurs’ Park by UNESCO; Ilafy, to the north of the ca- with its 9 species of lemurs nestled in an pital, where King Radama II entertained enchanting environment. Antongona is his guests; Ambohidrabiby, where zebu another noteworthy site featuring a hill meat was first introduced by King at the entrance of Imerintsiatosika where Ralambo around 1600; Antsahadinta, to two royal huts have been transformed the south-west, with its trees, the amon- into museums at its summit.

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• On RN2, the road to Tamatave, sits • Along RN3, Anjozorobe rests in its forest Ambohimalaza, a historical village fa- corridor, highly appreciated by bird- mous for its immense necropolis and watchers as it has the added advantage its tombs surmounted by small houses of having aquatic birds as well as those called tranomanara. inland dwellers. Nandihizana, facing the Massif of Angavo- • 140 km to the north kely, offers one of the west along RN4, the most beautiful pano- Royal Palm tree, ende- ramas of the Central mic of the Tampoketsa Highlands. Amba- of Ankazobe, reins in tolaona is the entry the natural forest of point to Mantasoa, the Special Reserve of whose attractions Ambohitantely. include a beautiful lake, and slopes stud- • Finally, along RN7, ded with quaint ho- 30 km from the capital, mes and its historical vestiges. Finally, Analamanga Park, a compound for lei- the road winds down literally to more sure activities and handicraft markets magnificent scenery at the Gorges of which delineates the southern border of Mandraka. the Region.

19 Antsirabe and the Vakinankaratra

Situated 170 km from Antananarivo on the RN7, Antsirabe is the capital of Vakinankaratra. This quaint spa town is surrounded by volcanic mountains and has a typically cooler climate. The first spa establishment was built in 1917 and it soon became a vacation spot for people from all over the country, and even neighbouring islands, who wanted to experience the healing properties of its waters. Antsirabe, which can be toured from the seat of one of many rickshaws, offers the tranquillity of a small European provincial town while maintaining its typically Malagasy touch which it unveils in markets and traditional quarters.

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• In its immediate surroundings is the of Sahatany is located at its foot, and is July until August, is the coldest place in nearly circular lake of Andraikiba which, considered a key spot for mineralogy. Madagascar in the winter months. It is on in some spots, is 165 m deep. Tritriva, the Benefiting from its close proximity, the the road to Antananarivo, and has an most famous crater lake of Madagascar, stone cutters of Antsirabe are among the extensive market, with everything from can be found 17 km to the southwest. most skilful on the island. Betafo is ano- cooking pots to foie-gras. It is also the best Its dull blue-green waters have a strange ther small town 22 km to the west along entrance into the Massif of Ankaratra, unexplained characteristic: their level the shore of Lake Tatamarina. Its name the fish farm of Manjakatompo, and decreases in the rainy season and rises in is associated with the falls of Antafofo Mount Tsinjoarivo, the third highest peak the dry season. whose waters drop from a 20 m height in on the island at an altitude of 2000 m. two uneven levels into a setting forming At the southeast outermost bounds of • Mount Ibity is situated 30 km to the a half-moon shape. the Imerina region, Tsinjoarivo overlooks south, showcasing its orchids growing the falls of Onive, the holiday resort of amidst the rocky landscape. The valley • Ambatolampy, the capital of mimosa from last queens.

21 Diego Suarez At the extreme north of the Great Island, Diego Suarez is situated in an exceptionally beautiful (Antsiranana) setting, at the bottom of a large bay made up of the Bays of the French, of Thunder, of White stones and by the Gallois cul de sac. The Indian Ocean and the Mozambique Channel meet on either side of this body of water. A cosmopolitan town, Diego Suarez lives with the rhythm of its shipyards, and along its straight streets lined with buildings brightened with colonnades reigns a unique atmosphere which is not felt in any other town in Madagascar. • The Coast of the Bays is a succession of of Antsiranana locals on the weekends. coves and lagoons protected by coral reefs Following the road to the east, one will to the east of Diego. It is surroun- encounter the Mountain of the French ded by the Emerald Sea, a wide with its Way of the Cross that leads to lagoon where one can dive in a caves and vestiges of fortifications. natural aquarium. The Bay of the Pigeon and the Bay of the Dunes are • The rock of the Windsor Castle stands both nearly untouched white sand proudly to the west, with its 360° pano- beaches that offer an exquisite view ramic view of the Cape of Amber to the of the pass. The nearby Bay of the Saka- north, the Coast of the Bays to the east, lava is recognized as one of the most the foothills of the Mountain of Amber to beautiful windsurfing spots in the the south, and to the west, the Coast of world. Ramena is the perfect spot the Virgin Islands and its Bay of Courrier for simple leisure activities, loca- leading up to the Mozambique Channel. ted 18 km from the town, and Very much appreciated by the passio- it remains the favourite beach nate of diving and game fishing, this is

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a great starting point for yachts navigating along the northwest coast. They will pass by a myriad of islands with names like Nosy Hara, the Island of Goats, and the Island of Gulls, all of which are superb nature sanctuaries.

• The Mountain of Amber, which acts as a sort of water tower for the whole region because of its micro- climate, stands inland, along with the Massif of Ankarana, its Tsingy, and its networks of underground rivers and caves, some of which are ancient royal burial places.

23 Fianarantsoa Fianarantsoa is often referred to as the twin sister of Antananarivo. Like the capital, it has its own Lake Anosy, a railway line going to the east • Fianarantsoa is a colourful town situated curiosities such as Andriamamovoka, coast, hills and an Old City, in the middle of its racially diverse former a waterfall that can only be reached on the “Tanana Ambony,” whose province; it is a lovely and very hilly place foot, the road to Andina which features construction started in 1830. with many markets and handcrafts unique an impressive layout of terraced rice This heritage site is kept to the region. fields, and the marble quarries of Amba- jealously undisturbed and tofinandrahana, only 82 km away along inaccessible to cars, a must- • To the north, Ambositra is the gate to the the road to Morondava. see with its long paved road, stairways and labyrinths of Zafimaniry land and the capital of wood- small paths, old houses with work. This region does not unveil itself to • The legendary Fianarantsoa-Manakara flowers-studded balconies and the hurried traveller but offers numerous osuscitated thanks to an exceptional gleaming tiled roofs.

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enthusiasm from all horizons. The ride includes 56 tunnels, 4 viaducts and 40 other structures, and 17 stations along the 170 km of a route sometimes clinging to the mountain. Crossing the immense tea plantations of Sahambavy is a memorable voyage.

• Ambalavao, 56 km to the south of Fianarantsoa, practically straddles the Betsileo, Bara and Tanala 2 lands. It is the capital of the Malagasy wine, of the “arindrano” fabric which is sometimes fringed with pearls, and of the antemoro paper. Do not forget

to take photos of its beautiful houses and their terraces with varied openwork design and the zebu market, the second-largest on the island.

• The mountains of Andringitra and the mythical Ambondrombe are perfect for excursions. Ambohimahamasina, to the east of Ambalavao, is a town that has embraced community-based sustainable tourism. Host families offer accom- modations for interested visitors, who will have an unforgettable hands-on experience with traditional handcrafts.

25 Mahajanga Mahajanga, the second- largest port in Madagascar, is settled at the mouth of the (Majunga) Betsiboka, a river reddened by alluvial deposits. It is known as the “City of Flowers” and its origin is entangled in innumerable legends. Indo- Arabic influence has left its imprints on the houses built in cube or finely carved doors. The town’s emblem, the lonely baobab, stands imposingly at a crossroads, and its inhabitants have adopted the daily ritual of lingering at the sea side long after the sun set on the Bay of Bombetoka. Mahajanga is also the route of “dhows” and their small port is feverishly busy at each arrival. • A particularly favourable climate guaran- but in miniature, which accounts for their tees tourism at all seasons to this coastal being coined “Low Tsingy”. region. To the southwest, there are nume- rous trekking opportunities and bathing • The canyon of the Red Cirque lies to the north, spots at Katsepy which is one hour away where strata of limestone and sand compo- by ferry. From Mitsinjo on the other side se sparkling glints and tints. The shoreline is of the Mahavavy, you will encounter Lake well preserved, and between the villages of Kinkony, a large body of water nestled in Ampazoana and Antsanitia lies some of the the midst of palm trees. The Bay of Baly, best assets of Mahajanga for international 150 km from Majunga, is of exceptional tourism: the blue waters of the Mozambique beauty with its golden beaches and co- Channel encourage a range of water sports ral reefs, its lakes and the green ribbon activities, the white sand beaches lined with of mangroves, and offers the contrast of beautiful trees called “satrana” stretches as disorderly bush vegetation and dense far as the eye can see, and the river Morira, forests. Finally, there is the Tsingy of bordered by mangroves, snakes through Namoroka, similar to those of Bemaraha the unexplored primary forest.

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• The Caves of Anjohibe, 80 km to the northeast, feature galle- ries, immense vaulted rooms, and rocky formations of all sizes and shapes. The caves are given access by the sea, and an excur- sion following the wild coastline will be far from monotonous.

• An institution in terms of eco- tourism: the National Park of Ankarafantsika, 115 km away along the road to Antananarivo, is an essential example of the fight against silting in the whole region.

27 Morondava The region of Morondava is referred to as Menabe (very red) because of the lateritic sediments and the Menabe carried along by the rivers Mangoky and Manambolo. In the 16th century one of • Belo-sur-Mer rests 80 km to the south of the two most important Sakalava kingdoms settled Morondava. Splendid sea beds and coral here, and it reached its islets provide spawning places for sea pinnacle a century later. tortoises. This is also the native land of The ancient sovereigns the schooners which pepper the entire continue to be honoured west coast from Tuléar to Nosy Be. during the “Fitampoha”, or the ceremony of Bathing • The baobabs symbolised by the famous the Relics. The image of Avenue of Baobabs which people from Morondava is linked with all over the world come to admire. Of the that of beam and square 9 known species of baobab, 7 are speci- sailed pirogues, and this part fic to Madagascar, including the majestic of the coastline is studded with Vezo villages whose Adansonia Grandidieri, the largest in the inhabitants are reputed for world, and the baobabs “in love” whose their hospitality. trunks are interlaced. • The Forest of Kirindy, 50 km to the north of Morondava, showcases an important diversity of baobabs, construction wood, and precious wood such as the palissan- der. It also provides a habitat for various mammals and rodents, including the giant jumping rat, or Vositse.

• The Sakalava and Vezo cemeteries, are admired for their figurines but are more and more protected from tourists. The

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most beautiful are at Antalitoka, Mangily, • The Gorges of Manambolo are composed Ankevo, and Lovobe. of steep slopes of a hundred to two hundred metres deep and span approxi- • Lake Bedo, a prospective Ramsar site, is mately 20 km. The openings sprinkled home to numerous bird species, and exhi- over the surface give access to a network bits great biological and cultural diversity. of caves.

• Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, neighbour to the • The Tsingy of Bemaraha, a UNESCO World small village of Ampasy, is a quiet little Heritage site, is one of the most specta- town which is traditionally the keeper cular sceneries of Madagascar with its of the kings’ relics and key spot of the limestone forests sculpted into blades “Fitampoha”. and sharp peaks.

29 Nosy Be Nosy Be is also known as the “Island of Perfumes” due to the plantations of Ylang- Ylang and spices whose fragrance is permanently in the air, captivating tourists as soon as they set foot on the runway of the airport of Fascène. All along its 200 km coastline, it boasts some of the most beautiful beaches of Madagascar, caressed by turquoise blue waters and protected from heavy swell by the mainland. Emerald green lakes fill its craters whereas a myriad of heavenly islets grace it with an exceptional sea environment. Furthermore, Nosy Be has an extremely welcoming population and rich culture to discover. • Hellville, the largest town on Nosy be, is mous Ficus Bengalensis multiplying itself home to a blend of exoticism and histori- endlessly. cal sites such as ancient canons, a church dating back to 1860, the colonial style • The Reserve of Lokobe is original forest houses of the Cours Hell, the stele of the zone on a platform of eruptive rocks dating Russian sailors, the port with its alignment back to the Quaternary Period. of “dhows”, and its signature pirogues and white boats. • It is hard to give a comprehensive list of all the lovely spots along the coastline. • Ambanoro is the location of the ruins of an The most well-known are: Ambatoloaka, indo-Arabic trading town with a line of fi- the most frequented beach, along with nely carved tombs to see on the way out. Madirokely, Ambondrona, Ankibanivato, and Bemoko, which lies opposite Nosy • One of the major Sakalava cultural sites Sakatia. Andilana, to the north-west, is on the island is The Sacred Tree, an enor- where the pirogues leave to transport

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you to Amporaha. At the southeast corner, Ambatozavavy can be found, where life is divided between fishing, ylang and coffee.

• Nosy Be is most cherished for its many islands and the beauty they possess. The Archipelago of Mitsio comprising the Great Mitsio and its basalt columns, Ankarea and its nearly cubic architecture, the Four Brothers sheltering thousands of birds, and Tsarabanjina, the ho- tel-island. Nosy Sakatia to the west of Nosy Be, has unique vegetation and is known for its sco- res of smiling children. Nosy Komba, also called Ambariovato, is the is- land of lemurs but also of embroidery and lace. Nosy Iranja is the island of tortoises, which is in reality two islands linked by a strip of white sand. Finally, there is Nosy Tani- kely, a marine reserve where fishing is prohibited.

31 Sainte Marie Stretching from the small port town of Soanierana Ivongo, Sainte Marie benefits from a less wet and a milder climate than the normally rainy east coast. 7 other islets with names evocative of far away seas are mostly clustered around the southern part of the main island. Yesterday the island of cloves, Sainte Marie is today the island of humpback whales. These famous creatures travel over 5 000 km from Antarctica to gather in the waters surrounding Sainte Marie from July to September. The Garden–island is also a sanctuary of nature with its primary forests and its riches in flowers, some of which are extremely rare orchid species. • Ambodifotatra, the main town on the its beaches of fine sand spiked with black island, is both a big village and a museum rocks, and sunbathers will also be happy in the midst of a lot of physical evidence to find Ambodiatafana, with its natural of the past such as the Square Albrand, swimming pools protected from waves. the ancient citadel of the “Compagnie des Indes”, the “Petit Barachois”, or the oldest • A luxuriously verdant coast road runs all church in Madagascar. along the west coast between Ambodifo- tatra and Ifotatra, on the “garden side” of • The Tip of the Coconut palms, 40 km to the the Garden-roadside, lined with beaches north, is comprised of 4 km of immaculate studded with basalt blocks, private creeks, beach lined with a thick grove of coconut cascades and several villages decorated palms. The Coast of Vatobe, is close by, with with flowers. TheB ay of Loukintsy (named

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for French King Louis XV), is the largest at • The south, is the tourist area par Sainte Marie and is the nearest ancho- excellence, exemplified by the gar- rage place of the Mainland. And certainly den-villages in the shade of palm the most beautiful… trees and badamiers. The Ilot aux Sables forms a natural barrier pro- • The east coast is home to an immense tecting from the swell. The Ile aux lagoon with intense blue colour that Nattes, separated from the main contrasts with the dominating green of island by 400 m arm of shallow the coconut palms and soanambo along sea, sitting as if in the middle of a the shoreline. The Bay of Ampanihy, turquoise lagoon, is a truly a desti- actually a sort of internal lake, is surroun- nation within the destination, a pa- ded by a thick forest of mangroves. radise to be admired at first sight.

33 The cultivation of vanilla “fragrants” which gave birth to Bourbon Vanilla began abroad SAVA before being introduced to Madagascar in 1870. The Great (Sambava - Antalaha - Vohemar - Andapa) Island became the largest world producer in 1924 and it has remained so thanks to the region of SAVA in the north-east, which • Sambava, nestling in the mouth of three rivers in the alone produces 1,000 tons of heart of a triangle formed by Vohémar to the north, is processed vanilla. Photographers have gotten familiar with bordered by Antalaha to the south and Andapa to the west. snapping pictures of vanilla Adventures include hiking in the valley of Bemarivo starting beans resting lazily on racks in from Nosiarana, watersports on the lakes of Andohabe the sun before further process. and Andamoty, and a visit to The National Park of As for tourists, they are legally Marojejy and its high mountain. The Coco plantation allowed to bring 2 kg of vanilla of Soavoanio covers more than 4700 and is divided in their luggage, they take with into 4 zones. them not only a fragrance, but a wonderful natural souvenir • Antalaha is known for its dhow-building yards, and semi- of SAVA, the greenest region of precious stone cutting workshops. A trekking expedition Madagascar. into the valley of Ankavanana will be rewarded by the pano- ramic view from the weather station. Excursions to East Cape (3 hours by boat) or to the Park Masoala are excellent ways to pass the time.

• Vohémar was originally an ancient Islamic city destroyed by the Portuguese, an unfortunate event which has nonetheless provided interesting archaeological remains for researchers.

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A Green Lake called Andranotsara lies 7 km to the south and was the former site of a village whose inhabitants were transformed into crocodiles, as the story goes. It’s linked to Ambilobe by a seasonal track and passes by a village of gold diggers called Daraina.

• Andapa rests in a green basin borde- red by Marojejy and Anjanaharibe, the region’s granary. The town is linked to Sambava by a beautiful mountain road winding between forests and the river Lokoho, which affords a beautiful view over the rice plots from the hill of Anjiabe.

35 Toamasina

Toamasina, Madagascar’s (Tamatave) second largest city and its largest port, is a place full of beautiful surprises, and is the subject of multiple proverbs, many of which are about the fleeting spells of rain. The large market, ironically named “bazary kely”, which means “small market”, is where most of the local people shop for food and supplies, but has hidden sections of well-made • The Pangalanes have always been part of basketry and souvenirs at fair the classical tour of the East coast. In re- prices for the adventurous cent years, its northern section has been shopper. The smaller market entirely restructured by the dredging of is more geared towards the most obstructed portions. Tapakala tourists and is named “bazary offers the first hotel on the road away be”, or “big market“. There, from Toamasina. Akanin’ny Nofy, by the tourists can find anything magnificent lake of Ampitabe, is an un- from fresh flowers to forgettable stay in a faraway place and embroidered tablecloths to immersion in a retro ambiance. Further to woven picture frames to zebu horn bracelets. The greatest the south, Ambila Lemaitso will leave the things about Toamasina tourist with wonderful memories, as will include the cool evening Vatomandry, whose sea is the nearest breeze at the seaside where to the capital, and Mahanoro where the the port lights begin to days have revolved around fishing for sparkle, the small restaurants generations and generations. that feature the best Chinese soups of the island, and the • Manambato and Lake scents of spices wafting from Rasoabe offer the best their warehouses, a reminder access to the Canal when that Toamasina is for the arriving from the Capital, country an essential fixture in international commerce. with shuttle ser- vices to Aka- nin’ny Nofy. This is a hea- venly place with well equipped quality accommodation, where the legend of King Darafify and Queen Rasoabe, and of his mistress Rasoamasay still floats in the air.

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• Up the coast, 60 km to the north of • The Bay of Antongil, 2,800 km2, was Toamasina, the town of Foulpointe once a hunting zone but is now a spot bathes in the turquoise blue waters of for whale watching and ecotourism. The its lagoon, while the vestiges of the Fort adventurous will prefer to discover it which, just as in the old days, watches by sailing from Cape Masoala, with an over a strategic spot, the pirates’ ceme- itinerary following the east coast of the tery, next to the only golf course by the Bay with its mountains falling steeply sea in Madagascar. Mahambo, 95 km down to the sea. There’s a perfect spot away provides a surf school in addition for a break at Tampolo, a marine park, to swimming, snorkling, outing by pi- before heading off to Nosy Mangabe rogue, walking in the forest or simply and the inscriptions on rocks made by relaxing! Fénérive-Est is one of the big ancient Dutch sailors. It’s a good idea to agricultural centres of the region with resupply at Maroantsetra at the bottom its coffee, clove and litchi plantations. of the Bay and descent along the west Soanierana Ivongo, a small river port, is coast to Mananara and Nosy Antafana, the last stop on the road and boarding which are said to have the most beauti- place to get a boat to Sainte Marie. ful reefs of the Indian Ocean.

37 • Lake Lanirano, at the foot of Peak Saint Taolagnaro Louis, is the starting point for the boats The duality “resort-based and discovery tourism” and pirogues heading for Evatra and the which is the best asset of (Fort Dauphin) Bay of Lokaro to the northeast, a land of the Destination Madagascar white sand, forests of Ravinala, strangely is particularly apparent shaped monoliths, trekking across the in Taolagnaro. Prominent hills. Sainte Luce or Manafiafy, the first attractions include an spot where the French landed in 1643, is exceptional coastal a beautiful bay stretching the arch of its indentation displaying flat coast as far as the horizon, surrounded strips of fine sand beaches, by palm-lined beaches with the forests in creeks plenty of fish and the background and villages of lobster atmospheric conditions favourable to gliding fishermen. sports, along with a beautiful landscape offering • To the west, the Lake of Vinanibe repu- diversity with a luxuriant ted for its shrimp, serves as a catching vegetation typical of the area for the rain waters of the chain of East of Madagascar and the Anosy. The river Efaho surrounds the semi-aridity and the Bush Fort of the Portuguese, the most ancient of its continental part. The permanent structure of Madagascar. The town proper is built on a Peak Lovasoa is an easy hike and recom- peninsula, between two mended for amateur trekkers. It affords large, deep bays at the foot a splendid view over the green Anosy of Peak Saint Louis which overlooks a grand panorama. to the north-east, and the arid Androy to the west, beyond the Bay of Italy or the Bay of Galleons. Long ago, the ships of Louis XIV ships came here to resup- ply. Lake Anony is visited seasonally by migrating pink flamingos resting near the dunes. The Valley of Mandrare and its immense plantations of sisal at

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Amboasary are located 85 km to the most tip, lies beyond Tsihombe, with southeast of Fort Dauphin. Berenty is a beaches stretching endlessly towards the private Reserve created in 1836, where high cliffs of Cape Sainte Marie. tourists can watch Makis and dancing Sifaka, and visit the museum for the • At Conservation level, a particular mention customs of the Androy. is to be given to the National Park of Andohahela, the laureate of the Loutre • The ancient burial places of the Antandroy d’Argent Trophy at the World Travel Mar- and Mahafaly people, complete with tra- ket 99 in London, and listed as a UNESCO ditional sculptures, are on the road into World Heritage site in 2007 along with 5 the Bush. Faux Cap, the island’s southern- other National Parks on the east coast.

39 Toliara At the end of RN7, between the rivers Onilahy and Fiherenana, Toliara is nearly at the mid-point between (Tuléar) the villages of Andavadoaka to the north and Itampolo to the south. Packed with Vezo beam pirogues, dhows and schooners, this is the land of a people living in absolute symbiosis with the sea. Here, one of the largest coral barriers in the world stretches for hundreds of kilometers, eventually crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. But once inland, one penetrates another world, the Bush. • The Arboretum of Antsokay was crea- lying along the coastline to the south, On the Mahafaly plateau, ted by a passionate biologist who include two caverns filled with fresh the “fantiholotse” reigns wished to see a real museum of water flowing from the 7 Sacred Lakes, and prevails. To delve into the flora in the dry forest and only 10 m from the sea. The Bay of the mystery of nature or the Bush. It houses more Saint Augustin, with its long limesto- relationship to environment, than 1,000 species, 90% of ne cliffs, neighbours Anakao, located all roads must lead to the which are endemic to 22 km to the south of Saint Augustin, south of the island. the region. the largest village of Vezo fishermen. They live upon a beach with imma- • The Caves of culate sand, opposite a marvelous Sarodrano, lagoon. Passengers disembarking from newly arrived boats will receive a memorable ride on a zebu cart. The Island of Nosy Ve, created as a Na- tural Reserve, shelters the only colony of paille en queue

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of Madagascar. The Bay of Beheloka and the National Park of Tsimanampesotse, an oasis stretching over 40,000 ha in the driest place of the island, are unforget- table locations. Beyond are the solitude of the Deep South, the Mahafaly tombs surmounted by funeral posts, the mohair carpets of Ampanihy, and the desert. 2 • About 20 kilometers to the north, the Vezo villages of Ifaty and Mangily are two of the most beautiful seaside resorts in Madagascar, with beaches lined with fi- lao trees, heavenly lagoons, and the huge barrier reef. There are also superb hiking trails inland for the botany and orni- thology addicts. Situated 284 km away from Toliara along the rough road of RN9, Morombe and the Sacred Lake of Ihotry are waiting with their scores of migra- ting birds and colonies of pink flamingos among the Mikea people, a mysterious social group of Vezo and Masikoro origin who continue to live very close to nature in a barely explored dry forest.

• On the road to Fianarantsoa, the National Parks of Zombitse-Vohibasia and Vohi- mena occupy a region mostly inhabited by Bara shepherds. Ilakaka and Sakaraha have become bustling small towns thanks to the discovery of sapphires in this region. Ranohira and Isalo National Park, one key tourism site in Madagascar, make up the land counterpart of the coral barrier.

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