MUSICAL HEAVY READING CHAIRS NINA RICCI CONFIRMS TOMES ON FLAIR MAGAZINE, HORST AND THE APPOINTMENT OF KARL LAGERFELD’S BELOVED CAT CHOUPETTE MONEY MATTERS GUILLAUME HENRY AS POPULATE FALL’S FASHION BOOK LISTS. PAGE 10 NEIMAN MARCUS UNVEILS ITS ANNUAL CHRISTMAS BOOK CREATIVE DIRECTOR. OF UBEREXPENSIVE GIFTS, HEADLINED BY A $475,000 PAGE 2 PERSONAL FRAGRANCE. PAGE 12

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WWDWEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Fringe Worthy Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci was not alone in his reverence for the edgy Seventies. While his captivating take on folkloric Goth included fringed tinsel sweaters topped with jewel-studded medallions and shown with dark-wash jeans, other designers tacked artful threads onto cuffs, hemlines and collars. For more looks, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY DELPHINE ACHARD

WWD DIGITAL FORUM MAY SWAP BOURJOIS BRAND Seeking Digital Answers experimenting or tweaking their existing Chanel to Get Third ‘C’? By WWD STAFF systems to keep up with a consumer who is forever changing his or her method of NEW YORK — There are no answers — getting information and shopping. only questions. At WWD’s two-day digital forum at the Stake in Coty Offered That might sound like a deeply philo- Museum of Jewish Heritage here, a slew of sophical statement about the meaning of brands examined the latest trends in the ride the upside on the whole company life, but it’s actually the current state of the digital world, offering some of their best By JENNIFER WEIL — [and] that may have been a key con- fashion world’s digital realm when it comes practices. Among the key statements were: sideration,” said the industry source. to e-commerce, social media, payment sys- ■ “Many more people now visit our PARIS — The Wertheimers of Chanel Another source noted that while tems and more. As fast as companies adopt Web sites than go to the entire store could have a new relationship with an- it is atypical that Chanel would make the latest tool, technology, app or methodol- chain combined,” said Michael Burgess, other low-profi le billionaire family — a deal for shares, it doesn’t need ogy, a better one seems to come along. president of HBC Digital at Hudson’s the Reimanns of Germany. the cash. The company has histori- Not that brands are lost in the woods. Bay Co. “For Saks Fifth Avenue, now 10 In a bid that surprised many observ- cally been acquisitive through its Far from it. Instead, they are constantly SEE PAGE 6 ers, Coty Inc. on Tuesday said it sought Paraffection affi liate on the specialty to acquire the masstige makeup brand manufacturer front in fashion. In 2012, Bourjois from Chanel in an all-share it purchased Scottish cashmere spe- deal worth about $239 million. cialist Barrie Knitwear, for instance. The proposed deal not only fo- Chanel — whose signature pres- cuses Chanel Inc. on what it knows tige beauty brand has such iconic fra- best — pure luxury — but also gives grances as Chanel No.5 and Allure, the French luxury house a 4.2 percent plus makeup and skin-care items like stake in Coty. Sublimage and Perfection Lumière Now everyone is puzzling what — has no other masstige holding Chanel might do with the holding. beside Bourjois. “I am not surprised that Coty [might “[The deal also] adds a high-profi le make] an acquisition, as it’s always on shareholder to the stock and high- the hunt for deals. I was surprised that lights Coty’s ability to source deals,” Chanel is a seller, but with investment continued the industry source. into Coty through stock they now can SEE PAGE 12

2 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 ’’ WWD.COM Fast Retailing Names Jay Creative President THE BRIEFING BOX early days in the rural area of Yamaguchi, before By KELLY WETHERILLE Uniqlo was headquartered in Tokyo. IN TODAY’S WWD “I have dreamed of working personally with Mr. TOKYO — John C. Jay, a former executive at adver- Yanai for a long time,” Jay said. “I’ve been thinking tising firm Wieden + Kennedy, has been tapped by about this moment for many years, so to be standing Fast Retailing to oversee all creative aspects of the here at this very moment is a very important mo- Jennifer Althouse in her new fashion retailer’s business. ment in my life.” boutique, AltHouse, in downtown The appointment was made by Tadashi Yanai, Jay’s title is president of global creative of Fast L.A. For more, see WWD.com. Fast Retailing’s chairman, president and chief ex- Retailing, and he will oversee all of the creative ecutive officer, at a press conference at the compa- aspects of all group brands, including Uniqlo, GU, ny’s corporate headquarters Theory and J Brand. He said on Tuesday. one of the things that most Yanai discussed Fast interested him in the posi- Retailing as a global brand, I’ve been thinking about tion is that it is not limited and said creativity and in- only to marketing or adver- novation are the keys to its this moment for many tising, but rather is a more growth. His appointment of all-encompassing creative Jay, he said, demonstrates role, even incorporating such his commitments to these years, so...this very moment aspects as store architecture SARDELLA two ideas. and product development.

Jay originally met Yanai is a very important Yanai said one key to Fast DONATO when he was heading up Retailing’s success as a glob- BY the Tokyo office of Wieden al brand is that it can effec- moment in my life. PHOTO + Kennedy, a firm for which tively seek out and nurture he has worked for the ma- — JOHN C. JAY, FAST RETAILING young talent from around the jority of his career. His world. The executive said most recent position there that this is one aspect of the The Wertheimers of Chanel have a new relationship with was as global executive creative director, partner business in which he expects Jay will be involved. another low-profile billionaire family — the Reimanns of and trustee from 2003 through 2012. He remained “I think that if we can become the catalyst, if we Germany. PAGE 1 a partner and trustee until this year. can be the place where young talent looks to grow Yanai first hired Wieden + Kennedy in 1999 to and to learn and further their skills, hopefully we There are no answers, only questions: It’s the current state of help with Uniqlo’s expansion from a small regional will be contributing back to society and contribut- the fashion world’s digital realm when it comes to e-commerce, Japanese clothing company to a global retailing ing back to their lives, and also doing something social media, payment systems and more. PAGE 1 force. Jay remembered meeting with Yanai in those good in terms of our future, as well,” Jay added. Rising French fashion designer Guillaume Henry is to join Nina Ricci as its new creative director, effective Jan. 5, and show his first collection for the fall 2015 season. PAGE 2 Guillaume Henry to Join Nina Ricci ’’ The use of child labor and forced labor remains widespread around the world, despite some progress and ongoing efforts ows “great ambitions for the brand” that would be PAGE 2 By MILES SOCHA to eradicate the practices. fueled by his “artistic vision, intuition, intelligence, charisma and curiosity.” Horst’s neoclassical photographs, Flair magazine’s innovative PARIS — A new year, a new fashion house for rising After graduating from the Ecole Supérieure des layouts and the world’s most glamorous cat are the subjects of French fashion designer Guillaume Henry. Arts Appliqués Duperré, Henry completed a post- PAGE 10 The 35-year-old, who made a name for himself graduate program in design at the Institut Français some of the latest design and photo books. revving up Carven and giving it a youthful élan, is de la Mode. to join Nina Ricci as its new creative director, ef- He worked in the studios of Givenchy and Paule Giles Deacon will take to the Orangery at London’s Kensington fective Jan. 5, and show his first collection for the Ka before taking the creative helm of Carven in 2009. Palace on Oct. 22 to show a clutch of designs from his archive fall 2015 season. Henry is to remain in his post until the end of that draw on an 18th-century aesthetic. PAGE 11 This confirms a report in WWD on Sept. 26 that November and Carven chief executive officer Henri Henry was stepping down from Carven after a fruit- Sebaoun is in talks with several potential succes- New Travel + Leisure editor in chief Nathan Lump dismissed ful five-year collaboration and headed to Ricci. He is sors, as reported. on Monday five people on the edit side, including a Web editor, to succeed Peter Copping, who is expected to take up In the decade before Copping, Ricci saw a num- according to sources. PAGE 11 a lead design role at Oscar de la Renta in New York. ber of designers come and go: Nathalie Gervais, Ralph Toledano, president of Puig fashion divi- Massimo Giussani, James Aguiar, Lars Nilsson and Bain Capital will reduce its holdings in Burlington Stores Inc. to sion, Ricci’s parent, said Henry’s arrival foreshad- Olivier Theyskens. minority status following a secondary public offering of 8 million shares of the retailer’s common stock. PAGE 11

It’s a woman’s world at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, as women account for nearly three-quarters of the group’s Child Labor List Cites Some Progress global workforce. PAGE 12

will be awarding $7 million to Winrock International By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN to implement a global project to support countries, Neiman Marcus wants its wealthy customers to smell good including Burkina Faso and Nepal, that want to im- this holiday — and for a lifetime — but it will cost them PAGE 12 THE USE OF child labor and forced labor remains prove their capacity to combat child labor. $475,000. widespread around the world, despite some prog- The countries on the list span every region of ress and ongoing efforts to eradicate the prac- the world. The most common agricultural goods ON WWD.COM tices through education and public and political listed are cotton, sugar cane, coffee, cattle, rice, pressure, according to the latest “Findings on the fish and cocoa. In the manufacturing sector, bricks, RETAIL: After honing her skills as a merchant at American Rag Worst Forms of Child Labor” report from the U.S. garments, carpets and footwear appear most fre- Cie and Planet Blue, Jennifer Althouse is hanging her own style Department of Labor’s Bureau of International quently, and in mined or quarried goods, diamonds, shingle in downtown Los Angeles. For more, see WWD.com. Labor Affairs. coal and gold top the list. The report assesses efforts by more than 140 In cotton growing and cultivating, countries named countries to reduce the worst forms of child and for using child or forced labor or both are Argentina, forced labor and reports wheth- Azerbaijan, Benin, Brazil, FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA er countries have made signifi- Burkina Faso, China, Egypt, India, @ WWD.com/social cant, moderate, minimal or no Kazakhstan, Pakistan, Paraguay, advancement from year to year. Tajikistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS It also suggests actions they can Uzbekistan and Zambia. [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. take to eliminate the practices 168M Countries cited for using WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. through legislation, enforce- child or forced labor in gar- VOLUME 208, NO. 73. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, ment, coordination, policies and ESTIMATED NUMBER OF CHILDREN ment manufacturing are Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and ENGAGED IN CHILD LABOR. two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. social programs. 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For New York Hand Delivery Service address crawling underground in mine shafts, sewing in China, India, Nepal and North Korea. In the area changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us textile factories or serving in households as domes- of diamond and gem mining, countries cited are that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. tic workers,” said U.S. Secretary of Labor Thomas Angola, Central African Republic, Democratic If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within E. Perez. “We are seeing more countries take action Republic of the Congo, Guinea, India, Liberia, four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, to address the issue, but the world can and must Sierra Leone and Zambia. 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media, 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, do more to accelerate these efforts. When children The report is mandated by the Trade and please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to are learning rather than working, families flourish, Development Act of 2000. Since 1993, ILAB has other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, economies grow and nations prosper.” produced reports to raise awareness globally about UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND TRANSPARENCIES), Thirteen countries received an assessment of sig- child labor and forced labor and has provided OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY nificant advancement, compared with 10 countries in funding for more than 275 projects in more than 90 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE last year’s report. Perez also said that the department countries to combat the worst forms of child labor. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Karen Katz Glen Senk Deena Varshavskaya Chip Bergh Joseph Altuzarra Dr. Qing Wu NEIMANMARCUSGROUP FRONT ROW PARTNERS WANELO LEVISTRAUSS&COMPANY ALTUZARRA GOOGLE

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Dries van Noten

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Giambattista Valli

Sonia Rykiel

Cédric Charlier Céline WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Esteban Cortázar

Fringe Wor t hy Galliano SOME HAD THE FEATHERY CRAFTINESS OF A DREAM CATCHER, OTHERS THE NOSTALGIC NUBBINESS OF A PONCHO, BUT EACH OF THE FABULOUS FRINGED LOOKS ON THE PARIS RUNWAYS OFFERED AN UPDATED NOD TO THE FREE-SPIRITED STYLE OF THE SEVENTIES.

Sharon Wauchob Isabel Marant DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE; ALL OTHERS BY BY VALLI GIANNONI; GIOVANNI ANDCÉLINE, RYKIEL NOTEN, CHARLIER PHOTOS BY VAN 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 Thinking Digital: From Mobile to Social

{Continued from page one} from last year,” said Andrea Marron, vice ditional way because, one, [comparable] times as many people visit the Web site president of digital, Nicole Miller. sales. We have to repeat what’s been as go into all of our stores combined.” Q“Mobile is a unique platform with its own working to make our numbers. This is Q“We analyze if something is successful, constraints,” according to Jake McGraw, di- especially true if you work for a publicly but it’s also critical to understand why it rector of technical operations, at Refinery29. traded company. And money’s still to be didn’t work or why it did work because Q“We’re excited about this online/off-line had in these traditional ways of doing those are the elements you need to rep- convergence. It’s transforming the way things and that’s really hard to walk away licate success,” said Jessica Drapiza, as- we’ve been doing business in the past and from,” pointed out Johanna Murphy, chief sociate vice president of digital innova- really putting the customer at the center of marketing officer, Ivanka Trump. tion and content, L’Oréal USA everything we do, making it more custom- Q “We don’t go there to shop,” said Q“By bringing the e-commerce business er-centric and channel-agnostic,” said Amy Deena Varshavskaya, founder and chief in-house and being fast and flexible and ex- McManus, vice president of e-commerce executive officer, Wanelo, on why e-com- ploring new partnerships, we are on track for North America at Kate Spade & Co. merce doesn’t work on Facebook. to grow [our e-commerce] over 100 percent Q“We still run our businesses in the tra- Here, more from the forum:

JENNIFER FLEISS, COFOUNDER AND HEAD OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AT RENT THE RUNWAY; AMY MCMANUS, VICE PRESIDENT, E-COMMERCE, NORTH AMERICA, KATE SPADE & CO. The online and off-line worlds are colliding. “We’re excited about this online/off- nient experience in-store, similar to Jennifer Fleiss, cofounder and head line convergence,” said McManus. “It’s what they provide online “and technol- of business development at Rent the transforming the way we’ve been doing ogy has been a core part of that.” JOHANNA MURPHY, Runway, and Amy McManus, vice presi- business in the past and really putting Rent the Runway uses technology on CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, dent of e-commerce for North America the customer at the center of everything the back end to personalize the experi- IVANKA TRUMP at Kate Spade & Co., shared insights into we do, making it more customer-centric ence in-store. Since their model is ap- Johanna Murphy’s a year into her job as their omnichannel business strategies in a and channel-agnostic.” She said they’ve pointment-based, they schedule appoint- chief marketing officer of Ivanka Trump roundtable discussion, moderated by Evan been adding more digital experiences ments for customers who give them their and is thinking hard about how to build Clark, deputy managing editor of WWD. in-store and more store functionality e-mail address, height, weight and bust up a brand that not only exists in today’s Rent the Runway has opened its first online. McManus said last spring, Kate size. When they come into the store, the world, but leans heavily toward the future. freestanding ground-level store at 16 West Spade worked with a company called company already has pulled merchandise To illustrate the point, she sketched 18th Street in the Flatiron District in New Perch, an interactive display system, to specifically for them, which makes their out the tried-and-true path for success for York. The company began testing brick-and- make its stores more interactive. time in the store more efficient, she said. fashion companies and guessed at how Collaborations are playing a bigger brands would break out in the future. part at both companies. Kate Spade cre- Traditionally, Murphy said, a creative Jennifer Fleiss Amy McManus ated shoppable windows in partnership young woman who worked in marketing with eBay when it launched its Saturdays was prodded by admirers to start her brand. Rent the Runway partnered with own business. Through friends of friends, Drybar online, because the firm knows she sold a small order to a department when a woman books a dress, they have store and got a favorable mention in a an event coming up and may want a blow- fashion magazine. The exposure led to dr y. “We opened our Flatiron location, strong sales, more orders, a small busi- and Drybar happens to be a block away. ness loan, a marketing budget, her own There are lots of physical integration stores, a beauty deal, overseas partners opportunities we can do with these two and a global brand. stores, and there are also event opportu- The successful brand would have a Web nities,” she said, such as having a hairstyl- site, but it would be staffed by two college ist or manicurist in-store. kids. And while mobile would be a con- “Why would I want to go into a physi- sideration, it would represent just a small cal space to begin with, if I have every percentage of sales and funds would in- mortar two years ago with partners, open- In making the move to retail, Fleiss product at our fingertips online?” Fleiss stead be funneled to a resort ad campaign. ing outposts at Henri Bendel in New York looked at other online brands such as asked. She believes firms have to offer “In the future, the story will go some- and at the Cosmopolitan Las Vegas. Rent Warby Parker, Bonobos and Birchbox, something in a store that the customer thing like this,” Murphy said. the Runway rents designer dresses and ac- as well as her own laboratory stores and couldn’t find out on her own, such as A blogger has an idea for a line of cessories for 10 percent of the retail price. pop-up stores with partners that were spending time with a personal stylist tech accessories. She raises money from According to Fleiss, the idea for lower-risk. She found that the consum- who knows about them and can relate venture funds or Kickstarter, launches stores came out of consumer demand er has become accustomed to very fast to the event coming up, and point out mobile and desktop sites, opens mo- and interest. She kept hearing that cus- payment in stores, more personaliza- things they might not have found on bile “stores” in trucks that park on city tomers wanted to see the dresses, touch tion and more attention in stores. “The their own. “That’s the differentiating streets and at music festivals and launch- them and try them on. “It became more ante has been upped by online behavior factor that people start to expect when es pop-up shops in coffee shops. compelling to open our own retail loca- and the ease and efficiency,” she said. they come into your store and it makes “She does a small capsule collection for tions, which is now a core strategy of the Customers come into the store and have them feel like it’s worth their while, as select department stores for marketing pur- business. We see it as very complemen- these expectations. She said for them opposed to shopping online,” said Fleiss. poses,” Murphy said. “Instead of shooting tary to our online business,” she said. it’s about providing a great and conve- — LISA LOCKWOOD two massive campaigns a year, she shoots weekly and monthly mini campaigns to keep all of her channels fresh. She has a JESSICA DRAPIZA, ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT OF DIGITAL INNOVATION AND CONTENT, L’ORÉAL USA big photography budget just for social. Her L’Oréal USA isn’t allowing fear of failure market, but recent projects have been marketing team is mainly comprised of data to slow down its push for innovation. directed at a range of business issues, analysts. And she has a lot of them. She has In her presentation, Jessica Drapiza, including brick-and-mortar. a big creative team. One for each channel associate vice president of digital innova- Drapiza cited a test undertaken for the and one big enough to create the numerous tion and content, detailed how the com- Kiehl’s brand in which it looked for an combinations and permutations she needs pany’s strategic marketing team, of which in-store approach to register ratings and for real one-to-one marketing.” she’s a member, implements experiments reviews from customers based on the suc- Companies today are stuck somewhere designed to drive new business, enlists cess of such programs in an online envi- in between her two idealized scenarios. the help of “brand champions” from each ronment, where they’re known to “kick ass “We still run our businesses in the of the 30 brands at the company and em- when it comes to converting consumers.” traditional way because, one, [compa- barks on trials to test hypotheses. L’Oréal attempted to bring the tech- rable] sales,” she said. “We have to re- While the brands compete to be the nique in-store but used two-dimension- peat what’s been working to make our guinea pigs in these experiments, the al bar (or “QR”) tags mounted on the numbers. This is especially true if you results — along with possible adjust- shelves of a store. work for a publicly traded company. And ments that might serve to improve the “It didn’t work,” Drapiza said, noting makeup recommendations that would money’s still to be had in these tradition- results — are shared with the marketing that shoppers were reluctant to take the “match or clash” with them. But it faced al ways of doing things and that’s really teams for each brand in published case time to download the software necessary a series of limitations — the relatively hard to walk away from.” studies meant to inform key personnel to participate and that uncertain Wi-Fi short amount of time riders spend at sub- Ivanka Trump is also caught in between throughout the company. reception might have worked against the way stations, poor lighting and the need the two worlds, having already established “We analyze if something is success- objective. However, a revised game plan to lock down the apparatus when a sub- a sizable business with 10 categories — in- ful, but it’s also critical to understand that employed the consumer using texts way station had no attendants on duty. cluding jewelry, bags and apparel — sold why it didn’t work or why it did work to opt in for a review met little resistance. The idea resurfaced, however, as a pilot in several hundred U.S. doors. because those are the elements you “Massive conversion to sale,” she program, available in airports, for Essie But the brand, which is both estab- need to replicate success,” she said of reported. nail polish where it’s shown solid potential. lished and a clean slate of sorts, is being the “NEXT” — New, Experimental, L’Oréal also tried to build a new In closing, Drapiza turned to a quote buffed and solidified by Murphy and her Transversal — program. point-of-sale opportunity for the L’Oréal from Mark Twain that she felt summa- colleagues with a very new-world out- Two years ago, she noted, nearly all Paris brand with interactive vending rized the L’Oréal approach: “Good deci- look, focusing heavily on a digitally em- JOHN AQUINO the tasks undertaken were aimed at machines, placed in New York subway sions come from experience. Experience powered consumer and social media, making L’Oréal’s brands more competi- stations, that used a “virtual mirror” to comes from making bad decisions.” while embracing active engagement with — ARNOLD J. KARR — EVAN CLARK tive in the rapidly expanding mobile analyze a customer’s outfit and make shoppers. PHOTOS BY WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 7 WWD.COM

MICHAEL BURGESS, ANNE-MARIE JUNG, DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL PAYMENTS, EUROPE, AMAZON PAYMENTS PRESIDENT OF HBC DIGITAL Anne-Marie Jung, director of the cart. Once they got to the AT HUDSON’S BAY CO. external payments, Europe, payment pages, their positive Thinking Digital: From Mobile to Social While many retailers count for Amazon Payments, lives in emotions diminished. Twenty- their e-commerce sites as their Luxembourg where — as in so five percent of them will po- largest store in terms of sales, many other countries in conti- tentially abandon their carts, few talk about the traffic imbal- nental Europe — there’s no late- 10 percent will abandon them ance, which is even more lop- night shopping and stores close when they have to enter deliv- sided than dollars spent. Just on Sundays. ery details, and 14 percent will look at Saks Fifth Avenue. “It would explain why I’m abandon them at the confirma- “Many more people now visit a passionate online shopper,” tion page. Americans are most our Web sites than go to the en- she said. She loves the speed likely to complete their pur- tire store chain combined,” said and convenience of online shop- chases. German shoppers are Michael Burgess, president of ping and receiving the packages. 25 times more likely to abandon HBC Digital at Hudson’s Bay five years ago we just couldn’t “There’s a reason they call it re- their cart versus Americans, Co. “For Saks Fifth Avenue, now dream of. And every year, we tail therapy,” she said. Jung said. U.K. respondents are 10 times as many people visit see so much more growth in Jung seems to be in the mi- three times more likely to aban- the Web site as go into all of our these mobile channels that we nority, though. The majority of don their carts. stores combined.” have to keep innovating. We’ve online shoppers — or 67 per- The company launched the Burgess said the “conve- built an entire technology or- cent — abandon their shopping Login and Pay With Amazon sys- nience equation” was shifting, ganization around mobile.” carts at checkout, according to tem in Europe last month. As a with Web sites that are only as Retailers are working so Business Insider Intelligence. result of its use in the U.S. (it far away as one’s smartphone hard to get their technology And those shopping carts con- from non-Amazon sites, elimi- was launched here in October able to offer not only very wide right, because they’re follow- tain about $6.5 trillion worth nating the need to reregister 2013), clients have seen three assortments, but sharp prices. ing shoppers as they go online. of abandoned merchandise, 63 or input personal information. times the growth in new ac- “Many of the core reasons Citing research from percent of which is potentially She showed a video comparing counts. More than 60 percent of JOHANNA MURPHY, for the creation of the depart- McKinsey & Co., Burgess noted recoverable. A recent study the time it takes to check out new accounts use Login and Pay CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, ment store are now being chal- that the portion of people buy- showed that 73 percent of shop- at AllSaints.com — using Login With Amazon. There’s a reduc- IVANKA TRUMP lenged,” he said. ing apparel online went from ping-cart content is abandoned and Pay With Amazon versus tion in the time it takes a cus- Johanna Murphy’s a year into her job as To differentiate the depart- 38 percent in 2010 to 45 per- for fashion purchases, versus the AllSaints payment process. tomer to check out by about one chief marketing officer of Ivanka Trump ment-store shopping experi- cent in 2011. 55 percent for food and drinks. It took 36.09 seconds to pay with minute and 10 seconds per pur- and is thinking hard about how to build ence, Burgess said merchants He estimated that now, 70 to Amazon’s goal is to improve cart Amazon and one minute, 19 sec- chase. Within the first two days up a brand that not only exists in today’s can better link their online and 80 percent of people are buy- abandonment rates and to turn onds to pay on the AllSaints site. of being launched, 24 percent world, but leans heavily toward the future. offline operations, personalize ing apparel online. browsers into buyers. Jung described a University of all online sales were made To illustrate the point, she sketched offerings and develop market- “That puts us right up with She noted that Amazon has of Cambridge study of 3,700 via Login and Pay With Amazon, out the tried-and-true path for success for ing to better connect with cus- where electronics, computer spent the last 20 years build- shoppers in Germany, the U.K. with an online conversion in- fashion companies and guessed at how tomers on their own turf. hardware and software were ing trust with its customers, so and the U.S. that explored cus- crease of 34 percent. brands would break out in the future. “The mobile tidal wave is just a few years ago,” he said. they know it is safe to store their tomers’ mind-sets during the Asked whether a brand or re- Traditionally, Murphy said, a creative actually massive,” he said. “We’re in a rapid acceleration credit card information on the payment process. The study tailer gets information on who young woman who worked in marketing “It is sweeping across all of mode for buying online for our site. Her role is to expand that found that there are five per- is buying when it uses Login was prodded by admirers to start her our businesses in ways that categories.” — E.C. trust in Amazon to other e-tailers sonality types and that people and Pay With Amazon, Jung said own business. Through friends of friends, as she touted the use of the behaved differently throughout the brand will receive e-mail she sold a small order to a department company’s Login and Pay With the shopping stages. Consumers’ addresses of every person who store and got a favorable mention in a Amazon service, which allows emotions were high as they pro- buys, “but we do not share any fashion magazine. The exposure led to DEENA VARSHAVSKAYA, FOUNDER AND consumers to use their Amazon gressed through the shopping personal details and credit card CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, WANELO strong sales, more orders, a small busi- credentials when purchasing journey and began adding to information.” — L.L. ness loan, a marketing budget, her own Wanelo, the social shopping own profile with all of her stores, a beauty deal, overseas partners platform, aims to be everyone’s shopping preferences. and a global brand. personalized central network There are 2.8 million fol- MAUREEN KELLY, FOUNDER AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER OF TARTE COSMETICS The successful brand would have a Web for the digital mall. lowers and 87,000 products on Since Maureen Kelly, founder and the Teen Choice Awards. site, but it would be staffed by two college In her discussion on “The Wanelo. “The average prod- chief executive officer of Tarte Since 2011, Tarte has built kids. And while mobile would be a con- Most Important Platform uct has 140 saves and 19 buy Cosmetics, founded the “eco- a custom marketing campaign sideration, it would represent just a small for Social Retail,” Deena clicks....There are 10 repins chic” company 15 years ago in her around grav3yard girl, who re- percentage of sales and funds would in- Varshavskaya who founded the per image on Pinterest,” she apartment, the rules of engage- views products for the company. stead be funneled to a resort ad campaign. shopping platform in 2012, spoke said. The founder and chief ex- ment have changed dramatically. “She’s a real girl. She doesn’t al- “In the future, the story will go some- of her thesis for the site, which ecutive officer also disclosed In a presentation titled ways have a full face of makeup thing like this,” Murphy said. stands for “Want, Need, Love.” that 90 percent of users are fe- “Embracing the Rise of Web on....She speaks about depres- A blogger has an idea for a line of Given that different in- male, and 90 percent of users Stars,” Kelly said that when she sion and having anxiety attacks. tech accessories. She raises money from dustries are no longer frag- are from the U.S. In addition, started, the credible sources Young girls relate to her,” said venture funds or Kickstarter, launches mented — résumés are now 90 percent of the site’s traffic were magazines and print. Since Kelly. She described a “meet mobile and desktop sites, opens mo- is from a mobile device and 50 Tarte couldn’t afford celebrity and greet” with her, which was bile “stores” in trucks that park on city percent of users are between spokesmodels, the company had promoted on Tarte’s and her so- streets and at music festivals and launch- ages 18 and 22. to rely solely on p.r. vehicles and cial pages. “Thousands of fans es pop-up shops in coffee shops. Retailers should try to get the makeup artist community showed up. At 9 a.m., when the “She does a small capsule collection for all of their products upload- to get products in the hands of doors opened, there were 1,000 select department stores for marketing pur- ed onto the Wanelo platform celebrities such as Jennifer people lining along the street. poses,” Murphy said. “Instead of shooting because “if it’s not there, it Garner and Rachel Bilson. By the afternoon, there were two massive campaigns a year, she shoots can’t be saved and it cannot be Back then, the ultimate social thousands. New York City Police weekly and monthly mini campaigns to viewed,” she advised. influencer was Oprah Winfrey, had to put up barricades....Young keep all of her channels fresh. She has a To help users, as well as whom she described as “the most girls were out there screaming big photography budget just for social. Her solve the question of when credible source” via print, digital to QVC,” she said, especially her name. We more than doubled marketing team is mainly comprised of data does something go on sale, the and her TV show. She said when younger customers. our sales goals,” said Kelly. “This analysts. And she has a lot of them. She has site saves trigger alerts when Tarte’s lip gloss made Oprah’s Separately, the beauty firm represented a really new way for a big creative team. One for each channel there are sales promotions for favorite list, it generated a 1,192 partnered with Aqualillies, a us to work with a YouTube star. and one big enough to create the numerous that particular item, she noted. percent increase in business the glamorous synchronized swim- It was a full partnership tailored combinations and permutations she needs Further, to make shopping next day. Other TV influencers ming group, who wore Tarte around her following, our follow- for real one-to-one marketing.” easier, some retailers are add- were “The View,” the “Today” makeup while performing. “They ing, and it resulted in really sig- Companies today are stuck somewhere ing the “Wanelo Save” button show, “Ellen” and “Dr. Oz,” and were the perfect muses for our nificant dollars.” in between her two idealized scenarios. to their e-commerce sites so when products were featured, summer makeup collection...and She said generally branding “We still run our businesses in the users can save something they sales skyrocketed. we got over three million media is hard to put a return on. “This traditional way because, one, [compa- like directly to their universal Now, Tarte looks for a new impressions,” said Kelly. This pro- is instant and it’s measurable,” rable] sales,” she said. “We have to re- wish list. kind of influencer beyond tra- motion was for products sold at she said. peat what’s been working to make our on LinkedIn and clipped im- According to Varshavskaya, ditional media and has turned Sephora, sephora.com, Ulta, ulta. For holiday, Tarte is turn- numbers. This is especially true if you ages are now on Pinterest — “Our users are coming to to QVC. “It has a really differ- com, QVC.com and Tarte.com. ing to singer-songwriter Kina work for a publicly traded company. And Varshavskaya’s thesis is that Wanelo from word of mouth.” ent business model than brick- The new class of media in- Grannis, whose single on money’s still to be had in these tradition- “everything we do is being unit- She noted that retailers can and-mortar stores and really fluencers represent a different YouTube got 97 million views al ways of doing things and that’s really ed into a specialized network.” be proactive about building sparked us to think about our kind of celebrity, said Kelly. as part of the Doritos “Crash hard to walk away from.” She also noted the reason their following and promot- communications strategy dif- “They create their own rules, the Super Bowl” contest. Ivanka Trump is also caught in between why e-commerce doesn’t work ing Wanelo. One example is ferently,” said Kelly. On QVC’s they’re real women, most of “She’s the perfect muse for our the two worlds, having already established on Facebook: “We don’t go Nordstrom, which has Wanelo “Today’s Special Value,” seg- them with real day jobs. They’re holiday collection,” she said. a sizable business with 10 categories — in- there to shop.” trending products on TV ment, which is a collection of strong role models with posi- “She’s real, eco-conscious and cluding jewelry, bags and apparel — sold In creating Wanelo, she screens in more than 100 phys- products available for one day, tive philosophies,” she said. She has a day job and has a huge in several hundred U.S. doors. hoped to solve shopping’s set ical store locations. they can do $3 million or $4 mil- pointed out that on Instagram, global following,” said Kelly. But the brand, which is both estab- of unknowns when entering Saved products from the in- lion of sales in one day. Tarte President Obama has 3.5 million “She has tons of views who lished and a clean slate of sorts, is being a store: product availability, dividual shopping sites have to partnered with 11 bloggers and followers, Oprah has three mil- probably never heard of Tarte. buffed and solidified by Murphy and her sizes in the store’s inventory, be bought from each site direct- vloggers such as Elle and Blair lion followers, and blogger/vlog- She’s the face of the visual colleagues with a very new-world out- color options and whether ly. Varshavskaya said the ability Fowler. It sent the women the ger Vegas Nay has 2.6 million campaign and it’s an interest-

look, focusing heavily on a digitally em- JOHN AQUINO it’s on sale. Varshavskaya to buy from Wanelo — one that makeup kit and they put it on followers. She said these Web ing collaboration for us. We’re powered consumer and social media, said there are 350,000 stores she called an “opportunity” — Twitter, YouTube and Instagram celebrities are getting magazine moving toward music, enter- while embracing active engagement with on Wanelo’s platform, and isn’t yet an option for users. “and the collection sold out. It covers, they appear on reality tainment and lifestyle to really

shoppers. — EVAN CLARK PHOTOS BY every single user has her — VICKI M. YOUNG brought hundreds of new names TV and are being recognized at extend our reach.” — L.L.

w08a006(7-8)a;8.indd 7 10/7/14 9:14 PM 10072014211718 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014

RYAN BONIFACINO, VICE PRESIDENT OF DIGITAL STRATEGY, ALEX AND ANI MARK FRIEDMAN, PRESIDENT OF E-COMMERCE, STEVEN MADDEN LT D. “We’re going beyond the bangle.” home goods. “The relationship that has to take Steven Madden Ltd. has made prog- it’s getting from the new platform, That was the mantra Alex and Ani’s vice place between a digital unit and product devel- ress in making its new omnichannel which adds functionality including president of digital strategy Ryan Bonifacino opment is permanent in nature,” Bonifacino Web platform conform to its objec- the ability for customers to learn put behind his presentation on the brand’s said. “For example, are we only selling men’s tives of being “everywhere, easy, in- the availability of merchandise they digital strategy. The accessories brand, product to men? No, because we’ve got three stant, informed and communal,” but want in individual stores. known for charm bracelets, has seen a 5,221 million records that are female only.” it hasn’t quite cracked the code for “We have started to see on the new percent growth in sales over the last three Bonifacino also cited “overanalyzing optimizing Instagram engagement. platform improvement in conversion, years, Bonifacino said, citing 2013’s revenues your workflow” as a key to a successful In his presentation, “Stepping It improvements in our average order,” of $230.1 million, compared to 2010’s $4.3 digital strategy. “Understand that when Up — Omnichannel Selling Fulfills Friedman said. “We also felt that with million. That growth has been similarly re- you put these things in place and you’ve Our Customers’ Expectations,” Mark a higher conversion rate and higher flected in the brand’s digital presence, which got a lot of people making decisions what Friedman, president of e-commerce average order and greater dollars per Bonifacino attributed to a commitment to type of processes need to go in place to ap- at the Long Island City, N.Y.-based visit, that would allow us to invest centralize digital strategy prove things, such as cam- footwear and accessories firm, de- more heavily in marketing, and we’re across three main areas: paigns,” he said. “Invest tailed how its new Web platform, seeing that as well.” e-commerce and analytics, in DAM [digital asset man- launched in March, had brought it Friedman sees room for improve- social media and digital agement] and work with ment, including boosting the speed of marketing. professionals who can the shopping experience for users of “Play nice,” he said. master this workflow.” smartphones and tablets, especially “When you play nice, you Looking outside of in- when traffic from mobile devices peaks have to provide an internal ternal workflow is just as at close to 60 percent on Sundays. service that allows other important, he noted. “Go The revised site also adapts to channels to depend on you. across your landscape of the viewing and buying history of the To be able to integrate your brands that you admire and user to a greater extent than its pre- traditional and your digital look at what [programs] decessor, promoting various types of marketing, it’s a partner- they use.” Looking to out- content and personalizing product ship that once it’s formed side brands is also the key recommendations. And it establishes the right way and conflict is to identifying emerging tal- a greater degree of connectivity with eliminated, it’s a partner- ent and advances in tech- social media than the earlier site ship that is permanent.” nology within the digital was capable of orchestrating. The first step in central- sphere. “Every member of While modifications have helped izing, said Bonifacino, is to define team digital is assigned a publicly traded retailer interconnectivity with Facebook, the roles so to avoid a disconnect between de- to follow,” he said. “They are on every earn- Madden executive isn’t satisfied with partments, such as chief marketing officer ings call, reading every annual report cover the return it’s received on its invest- versus chief information officer. The next is to cover, and following the executives of ment in Instagram connectivity, saying to research what each department oversees, companies. that engagement six months after the excels at, and can contribute to other chan- “It allows us, as an industry, to find what relaunch isn’t as high as he would like. nels. “If you’ve got product-design teams, it is we’re accepting and how we’re pro- “But for those people who do en- understand that you are the single source of gressing with digital, and ultimately it al- closer to its objective of securing a gage, the conversion rate of those truth for customer data,” Bonifacino said. lows us to create our own road map — what seamlessly integrated omnichannel folks is much, much higher than “So with the centralization of digital, you are the things we want to do, what are the shopping experience despite what those who don’t engage with it,” are also centralizing your customer data, big concepts and how can we execute those he described as the “normal chal- he said, noting the propensity of your sales information and your product in- concepts? It’s not just our brand making lenges of migration.” Instagram users to be particularly formation.” those decisions. It’s a wide web of complex About two-thirds of Madden’s enthusiastic in their use of the net- That internal database is key for the brand agencies, consultants, system integrators, $1.31 billion in 2013 net sales come work. He confessed to being sur- when looking at what markets to enter, or research providers and so on. It all starts from wholesale with the rest gener- prised at the energy users exert. “going beyond the bangle.” Outside of accesso- with the centralization of digital,” said ated by its more than 120 stores and “It’s not as simple as just taking ries, Alex and Ani has products in leather and Bonifacino. — LAUREN MCCARTHY e-commerce. While the new plat- a selfie of your feet,” he said. “They form currently houses only Steve style it head to toe and they put it up Madden, the e-commerce sites of there and we are now leveraging it.” JAKE MCGRAW, DIRECTOR OF TECHNICAL OPERATIONS, REFINERY29; its other brands — Betsey Johnson, Instagram posts are featured at ANTHONY CITRANO, VICE PRESIDENT FOR COMMUNICATIONS Brian Atwood and Dolce Vita — will the bottom of about 40 percent of the AT VERIZON DIGITAL MEDIA SERVICES be placed on it in the months ahead. Madden site’s pages, Friedman re- In the interim, Madden likes what ported. — ARNOLD J. KARR “Mobile is a unique platform with its ing the Millennial consumer, which McGraw own constraints.” said is expected to surpass the Baby That conclusion was the reason why Boomer generation by 2017. MICHAEL DUBIN, FOUNDER AND Refinery29 elected to revamp and optimize He was joined by Anthony Citrano, vice CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, its mobile platform, said Jake McGraw, di- president for communications at Verizon DOLLARSHAVECLUB.COM rector of technical operations. Digital Media Services, who spoke about McGraw noted that 94 percent of Millennials and targeting those digitally Michael Dubin’s a problem solver. Refinery29 readers own a smartphone, savvy consumers. And the founder and chief execu- while eight out of 10 experiment with tech- At one point in his presentation, Citrano tive officer of DollarShaveClub.com nology. Most readers use mobile to get to the asked, “How many of you tested your Web has made it his corporate mission. site to see around the world how “The purpose of the Internet in long it takes to load?” Loading times my opinion is to make our lives better Jake Anthony vary globally, depending on access, and more enjoyable and that starts McGraw Citrano and digital is becoming a more im- with solving problems,” Dubin said. portant part of consumers’ lives. The problem for online merchants “If you want to see the future, is that they have to “sell stuff to peo- look at the Millennial. They are the ple,” he said. first truly digitally native generation. “The best way to do that, the most They grew up online. The Internet is lasting way to do that, the most re- The company sees a conversion the real world,” Citrano said. warding way to do that is to solve rate of 5.6 percent, while about 55 per- He said Verizon polled 1,000 somebody’s problem and that’s what cent of its traffic comes from mobile. Millennials, watched the devices they we do at Dollar Shave Club: We solve Dubin said 55,000 members a month used and saw how they behaved online. problems for men,” Dubin said. refer a friend to Dollar Share Club, “They control more than $1.5 tril- He said men shopping for razors often echoing the brand’s own humor. lion in consumer spending, and are in stores often have to find a sales “Gone is this stigma to be a metro- now entering their prime earning associate with a key to open the sexual — it’s a very outdated term at years. They trust people [online that] “razor fortress” and then wait in line this point,” he said. “Guys are recog- they’ve never met....Thirty percent are to pay. “It’s very frustrating,” Dubin nizing the connection between what more likely to shop on their mobile de- said. “Our solution to this problem you put in your hair, what you put on Refinery29 site, and many “never go to the vice and not their desktop, but most sites are is three great razors, very affordably your face and body and the confidence desktop,” he said. created for the desktop,” he told attendees. priced, delivered to your door with- you have, which ultimately translates The old app took content that was on the In addition, 65 percent use their mobile out even having to think about it.” into the success that you have.” site and modified it for the mobile platform. device while watching television. “They are The company started in 2012 and Ninety percent of men are buying But that doesn’t really work because usage serious multitaskers, who are highly visual. now owns 8.8 percent of the U.S. their own shaving and grooming prod- patterns are different between the two plat- They expect [sites] to load instantly. They men’s cartridge market. ucts and they’re becoming more aware forms, McGraw said, adding that in mobile, live in HD [high definition video], and 41 Part of the secret to Dollar Shave of the category, showing more interest in one has just “seconds to engage the user.” percent will leave a site if it doesn’t load in Club’s success is its tongue-in-cheek details such as ingredients, Dubin said. Another problem with mobile is the slow two seconds,” Citrano said. brand message that makes it easier So the brand jumps on that opportunity connection, which is why Refinery29 uses He emphasized that companies “have for men to relate to buying groom- in its own way, with messages like this: Verizon EdgeCast to “bump up the speed to build for mobile or they are missing out. ing products. That extends from the “Dollar Shave Club must use some fancy so delivery [of content] is faster,” he said. If your Web site sucks, you suck. They’ll go pitch on its Web site, which prom- ass cows to get their shave butter from Verizon’s content delivery network can de- elsewhere. They take it personally.” ises one blade is “like a personal because that was a damn smooth shave, termine from one URL whether it is being Citrano added that if companies don’t assistant for your face,” to packag- tastes terrible on toast, though.” accessed from a device or a desktop. optimize for mobile, they’ll leave a chunk of ing that reminds users that: “Your Given Dollar Shave Club’s mar- “We are now integrating mobile to every- money on the table given how much the gen- mother-in-law should be irritating, ket-share growth, it’s a message that thing that we do,” McGraw said. eration controls in spending power. not your razor. Change your blade is resonating with a lot of men. Refinery29, like so many others, is target- — VICKI M. YOUNG every week.” — EVAN CLARK WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 9 WWD.COM

ANDREA MARRON, VICE PRESIDENT OF DIGITAL, NICOLE MILLER Billy May Jason Goldberg BLAIR ETHINGTON, CROWDSTAR VICE PRESIDENT, BRANDS AND MARKETING

Nicole Miller is upping its digital game. performing affiliates — and we’ve only been Andrea Marron, the company’s vice presi- working with them for four months [and dent of digital, was brought on two-and-a-half Covet isn’t an affiliate],” Marron said. years ago to bring the brand’s e-commerce Blair Ethington, Crowdstar vice president, business in-house. Everything was moved to brands and marketing, said Covet Fashion New York City, orders were fulfilled out of a digitizes a brand’s look book and players can warehouse in Long Island City and a rede- use their Covet Currency to shop. signed Web site was launched in partnership with e-commerce solu- tion Magento. Blair Andrea “We improved margins a lot and Ethington Marron gave the current customer a better experience, but it didn’t grow our business as significantly as we want- ed because we weren’t necessarily attracting new customers and ap- pealing to new people,” Marron said. This led the company to start JASON GOLDBERG, RAZORFISH VICE PRESIDENT, COMMERCE STRATEGY; to think about partnerships and BILLY MAY, ABERCROMBIE & FITCH GROUP VICE PRESIDENT various marketing campaigns “For every baby born, there are 10 Starbucks. We need to think differ- that would elicit more eyeballs, smartphones activated,” said Jason ently about our relationship with such as partnering with eBay’s Goldberg, Razorfish vice presi- those customers,” Goldberg said, Designer Collective, joining new dent, commerce strategy, illustrat- noting that more than 25 percent of social-shopping app Spring, testing spon- Ethington noted that more time is spent ing just how digital the impending the U.S. comprises Generation Z. sored pins on Pinterest, an integration with gaming on mobile phones than any other Generation Z — that is, those born in With an average attention span fashion marketplace Lyst and working with activity. The game has 360,000 daily active 1995 or later — will be. of just eight seconds, this group is Covet Fashion, a mobile gaming app under users and 1.6 million active monthly users. “The tactics used for Millennials likely to start shopping trips digitally. the Crowdstar brand. She said users buy what they want and probably aren’t going to work [for Billy May, Abercrombie & Fitch “By bringing the e-commerce business put the product in virtual contests and styl- Generation Z],” Goldberg said. “They group vice president, can attest to this. in-house and being fast and flexible and ex- ing competitions, which are held every day aren’t users; they are makers. They aren’t For Hollister, the Abercrombie- ploring new partnerships, we are on track (150,000 people entered a contest to decide brand-loyal; they are brand-ambivalent.” owned concept with a Southern to grow [our e-commerce] over 100 percent on the dress Ethington wore that day). This means brands must gear up California vibe that targets a slightly from last year,” she said. As for how the game makes money, once a to communicate with this consumer younger demographic, 90 percent of She highlighted the success of Covet Fashion, user’s in-game currency runs out, they have in a shorter and increasingly multi- consumers start their journey online. which lets players shop and style with more to use real money to buy more. There are also media way. “That brand experience starts well than 130 real brand and designer collections. incentives, where Covet Fashion will give a Right now, mobile is the single before the consumer ever gets into the The game doesn’t take an affiliate commission user 100 game diamonds (Covet’s currency) most important digital platform re- store,” May said, adding that the experi- from sales; it generates revenue through an in- for every dollar spent on nicolemiller.com. tailers can address. Last month, 50 ence is “heads-down,” or one in which app currency called Covet Currency. “It’s like a cash-back — [you] spend money percent of all of Target’s and Wal- shoppers are looking at their devices. Since launching Nicole Miller on Covet and you get this back in virtual currency,” Mart’s and 40 percent of all Best And while Generation Z’s shopping Fashion in May, Marron cited a 50 percent Ethington said. “They became familiar with Buy’s Web-site traffic came from mo- journey starts with mobile, the experi- increase in e-commerce traffic that is di- Nicole Miller’s collection on Covet and now bile. Further, 60 percent of the total ence, for some, is becoming mobile-only. rectly attributable to Covet. Ten percent of they have more to spend on Covet. It has been time shoppers spent on the retailers’ Hollister wants to make every mo- cart interactions are more than $1,000. successful for us in terms of driving sales.” digital properties came from mobile ment count with its fickle 16-year-old “Covet is now competitive with our top- — R.S. devices last month. consumer. But there is a gap. “The first step was making creative ANDREA WILSON, VICE PRESIDENT, STRATEGY DIRECTOR Sixty percent of people who start- more elevated. Instead of store cre- AND LUXURY PRACTICE LEAD, IPROSPECT ed on a mobile device wound up ative used for digital, we used digital finishing their purchase at a desk- creative to drive the end-to-end ex- Personal. Adaptive. to make very, very personal top, with an additional 10 percent of perience,” May said of Hollister’s Valuable. Those are the product recommendations those going to a third device. revamped digital experience that three principles driving that are spot-on.” “When Millennials were 17 launched in July. “Rather than adapt- the future of retail, accord- The second principle, years old, they spent the major- ing a desktop experience, we designed ing to marketing agency adaptive, was defined as ity of discretionary income on ap- for mobile first and desktop after.” iProspect’s September “allowing the consumer to parel. Generation Z spends it on — RACHEL STRUGATZ white paper. The agency’s see digital tools, strategies, proprietary consumer re- responses and in-store ex- search was based upon its periences that shift in real JAG BATH, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF PRODUCT AT RETAILMENOT INC. analysis of the shopping be- time, based on the con- For many fashion cases missing Lucy. havior and digital footprint sumer’s real time input.” businesses, cracking the “When you look at of 6,220 consumers, male Added Wilson, “Imagine digital code means under- mobile, 20 percent of and female, between 21 that your brand is a per- standing how Millennials time spent is on mobile and 74 years old, which are son, a friend, and you are use technology and think for Lucy, but only 4 per- mass affluent and upper- talking to this consumer, about shopping. cent of ad spend is on class household income. but you’re just listening — In that vein, Jag Bath, mobile,” he said. IProspect’s Andrea you’re not adapting to the senior vice president of Retailers are also Wilson, vice president, conversation. That can be product at RetailMeNot buying promotional strategy director and luxu- extremely frustrating for Inc., offered a portrait radio while Lucy is lis- ry practice lead, defined the first principle, a consumer, especially if they are showing of Lucy, a composite tening online. personal, as “letting every shopper eas- this brand all of these clues about their per- Millennial consumer, That and other im- ily find relevant answers to their unique sonality and the brand is not responding or who is both very digital balances equaled a $30 needs.” Furthermore, 77 percent of the taking any of that information in.” and very on-the-go. billion mismatch in ad- study’s respondents said they prefer to use Fifty-one percent of the study’s par- Bath said 80 percent vertising spend in the brands that reward and recognize loyalty, ticipants prefer to talk face-to-face with a of 18- to 34-year-olds U.S. last year, Bath said. with Wilson’s example being Tory Burch. brand representative, versus online com- in the U.S. have smart- However, there are “Tory Burch has both e-commerce and a munication. “It’s a 50-50 split, so you have phones and that major- both established and brick-and-mortar presence,” she said. “And to provide both a fantastic online experi- ity of those smartphone developing techniques they were the ones that took a very aggres- ence and a fantastic in-store experience users check their brands can use to zero in sive step forward to combine them into a because people want both, and they want phones 150 times a day. on the Millennial shopper. seamless experience. For example, a hus- both at different times,” she said, naming “She’s never more Bath pointed to band came in to a store trying to buy his wife Burberry’s London flagship as a key exam- than three feet away from geofencing and bea- a gift, having no idea specifically what he ple, which features mirrors that turn into her phone,” he said. cons that help brands wanted to get. The sales associate had her digital screens with product information. But even though she reach users on their ‘client book,’ which is essentially an iPad Lastly, valuable was explained as “offer- has a smartphone, she smartphones by send- app, and she was able to look up the wife’s ing authentic experiences that add value still likes stores. ing them alerts when online wish list, her previous purchases, to their daily lives.” “Value” was further “Shopping is an experience for they’re near stores. both in-store and online, and was then able defined by three themes: offering helpful her,” Bath said. “She’s actually spend- “This [geofencing] technology that to make specific recommendations.” information, enhancing convenience and ing so much time on mobile and in was pretty nascent a couple years To better provide a personal touch to a offering choices; saving time was also ex- the digital space researching [pur- ago has really become more estab- consumer’s retail experience, Wilson sug- tremely important to the consumer, with chases], and when it actually comes lished,” he said. “What it allows you gested offering digital personal shopping and 67 percent of participants willing to spend to fashion in particular, she wants to to do is connect and contextualize a making smarter product recommendations. more money in order to save time. Wilson touch, feel and try on those clothes. little bit more.” “There is external data that can be used,” offered several examples of how to add We actually see Lucy Webrooming Bath also noted that brands can she said. “One of my favorite examples is the value to a shopping experience through more than she is showrooming.” collect data to better personalize company Stitch Fix, which does an excellent digital, such as live-chat options, customer That means this customer is re- service for specific shoppers and job of looking at Pinterest boards or Polyvore service callbacks, detailed product informa- searching a potential purchase on- optimize their e-mail marketing, un- and noticing how a particular customer likes tion and the secure saving of pertinent cus- line, but actually buying in stores. derstanding that many messages are particular products or has particular trends tomer information, such as credit cards and Bath said marketers are in many opened on phones. — E.C. that they are drawn to, and therefore are able preferred delivery. — L.M. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014

A mannequin’s legs, from “The Street lovers, as prices for them soared into ■ “Horst: Photographer of Style,” edited Photographer’s Manual.” the stratosphere. Now Rizzoli has by Susanna Brown, with foreword by created a remarkable incarnation of Martin Roth and introduction by Anna Flair’s greatest hits, replete with its Wintour (Skira/Rizzoli New York). Horst original design details and articles, in a P. Horst, with his great flair for lighting relatively affordable ($125) and props, made every royal, artist and new edition. star look wonderful in the portraits he took of ■ “Choupette: The Private Life them between the world of a High-Flying Fashion Cat,” wars — and created by Patrick Mauries and many an arresting Jean-Christophe Napias, fashion photograph, with photography by Karl too, including, of course, Lagerfeld (Flammarion). his iconic “Mainbocher Lagerfeld’s Choupette is Corset” of 1939. He knew one of the most famous exactly how to use line, felines on the planet, draping and symmetry of with her Birman lineage, form to set up a rhythm Baked Alaska-shaded and create glamour. This fur and star sapphire book covers Horst’s entire eyes. The blue of the last working life, which lasted inspired the shades of from the Thirties through Lagerfeld’s 2014 Métiers the late Sixties, then d’Art presentation at Chanel. As he Choupette’s declined. In the Eighties, says, “I never thought that I would tale. when Wintour became editor in Elements fall in love like this with a cat.” But chief of Vogue, she commissioned despite the service of two personal maids some photographs from him of Yasmin Le and the frequent travel on a private jet, Bon, reviving his career. Said Wintour: Choupette has something in common “The images were very much of Horst’s with far more plebeian members of her ‘period,’ but they were absolutely timely species. As her besotted owner explains, and relevant.” Of Style “She likes strange toys, toys that aren’t Horst’s neoclassical supposed to be toys. She plays with pieces photographs, of wood, scraps of paper and shopping Flair magazine’s bags. She loves shopping bags, especially innovative layouts, when they have ribbons.” midcentury modern ■ “The Golden Lands: Cambodia, houses and the Indonesia, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand FOR MORE, SEE and Vietnam,” by Vikram Lall world’s most (Abbeville Press). This is the WWD.com/eye. glamorous cat are first in what is intended to be a six-volume series about the subjects Buddhist architecture across Asia. of some of the Vikram Lall, the principal architect latest design and of Lall & Associates, who has lectured on architecture world-wide, aims to photo books. show how Buddhist thought fused with — LORNA KOSKI local traditions to create religious architecture in each country. The buildings covered range from the “Sun-bathed but not Sun- ■ “The Street Photographer’s Manual,” by Michael Biondo and an introduction by struck” David Gibson (Thames & Hudson). John Morris Dixon (The Monacelli Press, Shwezigon Stupa in Myanmar, from “Horst: David Gibson is a founding member of Oct. 21). The design community’s ongoing from “The Golden Lands: Photographer In-Public, an international collective of passion for midcentury modern houses Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, of Style.” street photographers launched in 2000. shows no sign of waning. As the authors of Myanmar, Thailand He has taught street photography at this book write in their introduction, they and Vietnam.” London’s Central Saint Martins and has wanted to explore “the discovery of a ■ “At Home With Jane held workshops in cities all across the group of modern houses located in one of Austen,” by Kim Wilson,

world. In his manual, Gibson writes about the epicenters of midcentury architecture with foreword by Mary EILEEN COSTA photographers such as Elliott Erwitt, in America.” In New Canaan, Conn., Guyatt (Abbeville Press). Kaushal Parikh and Nils Jorgensen, and they are “surrounded by the living “We shall be very glad to also includes sections on techniques for history of 91 surviving modern houses,” see you at home again, shooting shadows, photographing from from architects who include and then...who will be

behind and from Marcel Breuer, Philip Johnson, eye so happy as we?” Jane CORSET BY HORST; two vantage points Eliot Noyes, John Johansen Austen wrote to her sister, of looking down. and Landis Gores. The Cassandra, in 1799. Austen On taking pictures book features meticulously has long been one of the HORST P. of objects, he photographed, double-page most admired writers writes, “All that ever spreads of the exteriors and simplest stupa in Myanmar to the vast in the English language, and this book matters is whether interiors of the dwellings as Borobudur complex in Central Java. depicts her life in southern England, something is worth they are lived in today. the places she lived in Hampshire and photographing.” ■ “Exposed: A History of Lingerie,” by Colleen the cities of Bath and Southampton she ■ “The Best of Flair,” edited Hill, with an introduction by Valerie visited. “As one of a large, loving family, ■ “Midcentury Houses by Fleur Cowles, with a Steele (Yale University Press with the Jane neither needed nor depended on Today,” by Jeffrey foreword by Dominick Fashion Institute of Technology). In her the outside world,” Kim Wilson writes. BY MICHAEL BIONDO; SUN-BATHED Matz, Lorenzo Dunne (Rizzoli New introduction to the book, which is The book places the celebrated author Ottaviani and York). When it illustrated almost entirely in the houses and landscapes she visited Cristina A. Ross, came out, by fashion drawings and and knew, from the St. Nicholas Church with photographs by in 1950, photographs of vintage at Steventon, where her father was rector, Cowles’ fashion pieces from the to the Royal Crescent at Bath. magazine, Museum at FIT, Valerie with its Steele quotes French “Flair” striking design — fashion historian Octave The writer’s world. takes replete with die-cut Uzanne, and writes, “The

flight. covers and sewn-in ‘exquisite, adorable’ art of WILEY HOUSE BY SCHLOSSMAN; MARC booklets — and elegant, luxurious lingerie its arts coverage, written developed, he argued, in by the likes of George direct proportion to the Bernard Shaw, Simone increasing ‘simplicity and de Beauvoir, Margaret severity of day clothes.’... Mead and Ogden Nash, An 1889 Warner Bros. Lingerie seemed to be instantly became one corset from the last repository of

of the most influential “Exposed: A History femininity in the age GIBSON; SHWEZIGON BY DAVID magazines ever created. of Lingerie.” of the New Woman. Or, Its sky-high production as Uzanne put it, lingerie Philip Johnson’s values made it prohibitively was ‘the last mythological 1952 Wiley House, expensive to print, and it only expression of woman.’” Steele from “Midcentury appeared for a year, but its original and Colleen Hill use this premise as Houses Today.” issues have become increasingly a reason to concentrate largely on the

sought-after by designers and magazine lingerie of the 20th century. MANNEQUIN LEGS PHOTO BY WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 11 WWD.COM

including Kering, Kenzo, Amazon, Tod’s and Condé Nast, among others, FASHION SCOOPS discussing the theme of cross-channel Bain Set to Trim retailing. The winner of the Fashion Pitch HISTORY BOY: The Brits the New Romantics and competition will have the chance Burlington Stake love nothing more New Wave and all the little to do an induction session with than history, and so it’s subcultures…they were all executives from Diesel, which is part only fitting that Giles so visual with such great of OTB. The winning company will By ARNOLD J. KARR Deacon will take to the hairstyles,” he said. “I also be admitted among the finalists Orangery at London’s think I grew up with that of another initiative for start-ups BAIN CAPITAL PARTNERS LLC will reduce Kensington Palace as a great reference library supported by Italian banking giant its holdings in Burlington Stores Inc. to mi- on Oct. 22 to show a [and] all those references Intesa Sanpaolo Group. nority status following a secondary public clutch of designs from come out [in the book.] Just — ALESSANDRA TURRA offering of 8 million shares of the off-price his archive that draw please don’t bring back the retailer’s common stock. on an 18th-century Mohawk.” — L.M. NEW COUNTY: Italian fashion label According to a prospectus filed with the aesthetic. The show, County of Milan is marking the Securities and Exchange Commission, 7.95 called “Georgian WRAPPING THE WORLD: opening of its first Milanese pop-up million of the shares offered will be from Fashion Remix,” is Pucci is out to span the shop on Wednesday. Bain, reducing its holdings in the company to part of “Glorious globe, at least with some The temporary store, which will be about 34.7 million shares, or 46.5 percent of Georges,” a year of scarves. The luxury in operation until Dec. 31, will open in those outstanding. exhibitions and events brand owned by LVMH Milan’s Navigli area, known for its cluster If completed, this would mark the held at Kensington Moët Hennessy Louis of shops and restaurants along two of the first time since Bain’s 2006 acquisition of Palace, Hampton Vuitton is launching city’s only remaining canals. Specifically, Burlington that it didn’t hold a majority of Court Palace and Kew A look from “Georgian a collection of hand- the store will be located in the same its shares and Burlington would no longer be Palace to mark the Fashion Remix.” printed scarves under space that will house Claudio Antonioli’s considered a “controlled company” according 300th anniversary the “Cities of the World” new streetwear retail project next year. to the corporate governance rules of the New of the German moniker, celebrating six “In the past, designers used to meet York Stock Exchange. Hanoverian line of monarchs’ access cities: Florence, Rome, New York, their private clients in their ateliers. However, the retailer said it might con- to the British throne, which began Paris, Shanghai and Hong Kong. The Now, a creative director welcomes and tinue to “rely on exemptions from certain with George I in 1714. Kensington collection is based on the brand’s guides his customers in his store,” said corporate governance requirements during a Palace said the show will highlight colorful Battistero scarf, designed County of Milan founder Marcelo Burlon, one-year transition period.” “the surprising and sometimes subtle by the marquis Emilio Pucci in who described the temporary store as Burlington is currently exempt from the ways” that Deacon has woven 18th- 1957. The Cities of the the brand’s “home.” requirement that a majority of its directors century influences into his collection, World reproduces each FOR MORE In addition to the be independent. Three of the six members of such as the pannier-style silhouettes city’s architecture and SCOOPS, SEE brand’s men’s and women’s its board — Jordan Hitch, Joshua Bekenstein of his fall 2007 collection and the peculiarities, from collections and co-branding and Tricia Patrick — are affiliated with brocade gowns he sent out for fall Rome’s Spanish Steps and WWD.com. projects, the shop will contain Bain. The three other directors are Thomas 2012. And to accessorize Deacon’s Paris’ Avenue Montaigne a selection of magazines and Kingsbury, president and chief executive of- designs, a number of Stephen Jones to New York’s Madison CDs spanning from hip-hop to ficer; Paul Sullivan and John Mahoney. hats will appear in the show. Avenue and views of Central Park, house and electronic music. The Burlington, N.J.-based off-price retail- — LORELEI MARFIL each with a specific color palette, A watch collaboration between er will neither sell any shares in the offering such as yellow, green and purple for Casio G-Shock and County of Milan nor receive any of its proceeds. J.P. Morgan is GUIDO’S GATHERING: After a marathon New York (as opposed to red, white will also be unveiled at the Milan acting as sole bookrunning manager. month of styling the hair for shows and blue). pop-up. The capsule will include two Burlington has yet to price the shares. They including Marc Jacobs, Christopher Additional cities are in the works. special editions of Casio G-Shock’s closed Thursday at $37.65, down 2.6 percent. At Kane, Prada, Dior and Valentino The scarves are sold as singles or in signature GD-11-1BER style, which that price, Burlington’s proceeds from the of- during the spring season, hairstylist a special “Cities of the World Limited will come decorated with County of fering would be just under $300 million. Guido Palau took to London’s Arts Club Edition Collector’s Set” that includes Milan’s Patagonian symbols and the Shares have performed well this year, Monday night to host a dinner to fete one of each of the six cities. The set will brand’s iconic snake pattern. rising 75 percent from their 52-week low of last month’s publication of his book be available from Nov. 1 exclusively at Designed by Storage Associati, $21.54 set on Dec. 10. “Hair” (Rizzoli). British-born Palau, Pucci’s online flagship boutique. The Milan’s hottest architecture studio, the Bain acquired Burlington from the who’s based in New York, mused on individual scarves will also be launched store will have a minimalist decor and Milstein family for $2.06 billion in 2006 and the idea of “imaginary beauty” that he the same day and will be rolled out will host live DJ sets every Saturday, retained approximately 42.6 million shares, explores through the book’s dramatic on Nov. 15 to selected boutiques in complete with Heineken beer. or 57.6 percent of those outstanding, follow- images, which he shot with Florence, Rome, Milan, Previously, County of Milan opened ing the company’s initial public offering of photographer David Sims Paris, London, New York, pop-up stores at Printemps in Paris, about 15.3 million shares, at $17 a share, one over a two-year period. Shanghai, Hong Kong and Isetan in Tokyo and Gallery in Seoul. year ago. An additional 13.8 million shares “I love people who Ginza. — LUISA ZARGANI — A.T. were sold in a secondary offering in May. express themselves; I love individuality and LOOKING FOR IDEAS: OTB’s I love the people who chief executive officer stick out from the crowd Stefano Rosso — who is and do things their own also on the board of way — they’re always directors of H-Farm, a the people [who] we look venture capital group back to for inspiration,” specializing in techno- said Palau, who serves savvy start-ups — will as Redken’s global style lead the jury choosing For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. director. the winner from a pool Palau, who held a of about 10 start-up launch for the tome with companies pitching Sims at Colette in Paris The “Hair” book cover. their projects onstage at late last month, chatted the upcoming edition of Spaces over a dinner of tiger shrimp and Decoded Fashion. Scheduled for Oct. black cod about the influence that 22 at Milan’s La Pelota venue in the COMMERCIAL his British upbringing in the late heart if the Brera District, the event, REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED Seventies and early Eighties holds which is promoted by Pitti Immagine’s PRODUCTIONS Current reps make $100k+. Our over his work. “It was a very kind of digital division e-Pitti, will see Full service shop to the trade. fashion tech and home products sell in Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 7000+stores. If you sell to accessory visual time in England with Punk and executives from different companies, buyers, email: [email protected].

33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Those executives that are leaving have Menswear Showrooms Designer Boutique Sales Manager for D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 high growth national designer, Nina MEMO PAD done an exceptional job for T+L and Mclemore apparel company focusing we are deeply appreciative of their on executive and affluent women. Re- sponsibilities: Manage Boutique contributions to the brand during their Showrooms & Lofts including building sales staff and BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS managing revenue/ operations budget. HEADING OFF: New Travel + Leisure tenure. But change is inevitable.” Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Maintain strong merchandising editor in chief Nathan Lump is putting (Perhaps those whose jobs have ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 b part of store like no other. presence. Please visit WWD Careers to bloomingdale’s NYC 59th st is hiring pt apply. his stamp on the Time Inc.-owned been cut don’t feel quite so optimistic holiday sales & support. Great employee discount! Apply to glossy. According to sources, Lump about his “vision.”) bloomingdale’s posting on WWDCareer.com. dismissed five people on the edit side, Lump, who was appointed editor Nina Mclemore is a including a Web editor, on Monday. in August, has been charged with fast growing designer apparel Designer Wanted company focused on professional, A Time Inc. spokeswoman did not ramping up T+L’s digital presence, Earl jean tops looking for a talented executive and community oriented designer w/ women contemporary women is hiring full time or confirm or deny that number but instead as well as generating new streams of market back ground.Knowledge of independent sales consultants. gave this nothing-out-of-the-ordinary revenue for the magazine, following Cad is must and as well as knowledge Responsible for developing client of Chinese a plus but not mandatory. base of professional women who explanation: “Nathan is redefining the retirement of longtime editor in Please send resumes to require elegant, high quality clothing. the roles of his team. (It is entirely chief Nancy Novogrod. He is doing all [email protected] Please visit WWD Careers to apply. normal for a new manager to put his/ that as Time Inc. faces the increasing her own team in place, one that can scrutiny of Wall Street following its and will deliver to their vision.) These spin-off into a separate, publicly listed (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] changes are a reflection of Nathan’s company in June. vision and ambition for the brand. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2014 Coty Seeks Bourjois Deal With ChanelWWD.COM

{Continued from page one} an of the company. Bart Becht, Coty Karine Ohana, a partner at Ohana & …that includes Calvin Inc. chairman, has taken over as in- Co., welcomed the heightened proxim- Klein’s Reveal. terim ceo until a successor is found. ity of the Reimann family behind Coty to Scannavini, who previously was the Wertheimer family, which has a con- president of the Coty Prestige divi- trolling stake in Chanel, in the possible sion, had stepped into the top post transaction. in July 2012 following the departure “They are two family-owned compa- of longtime Coty ceo Bernd Beetz. nies and two prestigious families from Still, having Chanel as a share- the luxury sector,” she said. “That is holder is seen as some positive where I find the cultural link between news. “We are looking forward to those two companies. Family-owned having the Bourjois brand as part of companies understand each other be- our portfolio of leading beauty prod- cause they have very long-term views.” ucts, as well as welcoming Chanel “We also point out that because as a Coty shareholder,” said Becht. Chanel will have ownership in Coty “Bourjois’ brands are highly com- shares, Coty should benefit from in- plementary to Coty’s existing color- creased collaboration with the prestige cosmetics portfolio. Additionally, company,” said John Faucher, an analyst the company’s strong heritage, qual- at J.P. Morgan, in a research note. Coty also owns cosmetics brand Rimmel. ity image and leadership positions That said, if the deal goes through, in a number of Western European coun- Chanel executives would not have repre- sure on its nail business, particularly tries where Coty is seeking to bolster its sentation on Coty’s board, according to a in the U.S. The company noted a soft- presence provide a great opportunity for company spokeswoman. ness in its core fragrance and color- Coty to further strengthen its leadership Coty has seen its fair share of chal- cosmetics segments, especially in the position in the large and growing color- lenges of late — including somewhat of a mass channel. cosmetics category.” revolving door at the chief executive of- Chanel No.5 joins Coty’s scent lineup… Color cosmetics generated about Michael Rena, Chanel’s representa- ficer level — but despite its recent rocky 30 percent of Coty’s sales and of that tive, stated: “We intend to examine the ride, the stock market gave its approval “I think this brand fits well into division, nail care rang up about 47 offer in more detail and enter construc- to the Bourjois deal on Tuesday. Coty’s Coty’s color portfolio and geo- percent, Faucher highlighted. tive talks with Coty.” shares closed up 2.3 percent Tuesday on graphic footprint,” said an industry Citing Euromonitor No Chanel or Coty executives could be the New York Stock Exchange to $16.30. source. The company’s other mass International data, he said Coty reached for further comment. Earlier in the day, the company said it brands include N.Y.C. New York holds a small share in the global The Bourjois acquisition is subject to had submitted a binding offer to acquire Color, OPI and Sally Hansen. makeup category with about 4.1 closing conditions, including regulatory Bourjois from Chanel for 15 million Class “Given the similarity between percent in 2013 versus 20 percent clearances. A shares. the Bourjois and Rimmel offer- for L’Oréal and 8.7 percent for the Meanwhile, Coty is not expect- “We think this deal makes sense stra- ings, both in terms of products and Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. With the ac- ed to stop looking for merger-and- tegically and expect Coty to be able to in- distribution channel, we think the quisition of Bourjois, whose annual acquisition opportunities, despite tegrate this brand into its existing manu- company can extract some syner- sales he estimated at more than Scannavini’s departure. facturing base,” said Faucher. gies as it integrates this brand,” $200 million, Coty would strengthen “In fact, with Bart Becht acting as an Bourjois products are sold in said Faucher, referring to another its makeup presence, particularly interim ceo, we would not be surprised if about 23,000 sales points in more Coty-owned color-cosmetics label. in Western Europe. more deals are coming,” wrote Faucher. than 50 countries globally. The In its most recent fiscal year ended The Bourjois deal followed news A Coty spokeswoman had no comment brand was launched in 1863 by June 30, Coty’s sales fell 2.1 percent to of the exit early last week of ceo on whether the company is progressing French actor Joseph-Albert Ponsin. $4.55 billion, mainly due to the pres- Michele Scannavini, a 12-year veter- on naming a new ceo. LVMH Sets Female Exec Focus Neiman’s Xmas Book Ups the Ante

37 percent in seven years,” Gaemperle sculptures by Jeff Koons, three over- By MARC KARIMZADEH said, citing development and training pro- By HOLLY HABER night stays in Phillip Johnson’s famed grams such as EllesVMH, the initiative Glass House, and all 12 Aston Martin NEW YORK — Bernard Arnault may be dedicated to the advancement of women DALLAS — Neiman Marcus wants its coupes despite its $344,500 price, ac- the most powerful man in fashion, but it’s to leadership roles. wealthy customers to smell good this cording to Ginger Reeder, vice presi- a woman’s world at LVMH Moët Hennessy “We wanted to create the working con- holiday — and for a lifetime — but it dent of corporate communications Louis Vuitton. In fact, women account for ditions so that people can grow within our will cost them $475,000. and head fantasy gift finder. nearly three-quarters of the group’s global group,” Gaemperle noted. “This is an inter- The luxury retailer on Tuesday un- For those who missed out on the workforce. national event in that it has been accompa- veiled its 88th annual Christmas Book, Aston Martin, this year’s automobile On Monday evening, their importance nied by a number of initiatives like coaching which is a market- is a 100th anniversary within the conglomerate moved center programs for women and EllesVMH. We have ing campaign offer- limited edition of 100 stage when the chief executive officers of 120,000 employees now in 70 brands, and pro- ing uberpricy gifts. Maserati Ghibli S Q4 its U.S. brands and divisions signed the vide these platforms for people to meet and This year’s most sedans, each a snap United Nations’ Women’s Empowerment exchange and learn from one another.” expensive is the at $95,000. Principles at the Museum of Modern Art. The signing of the Women’s chance to blend an The catalogue of- Following a similar event with the Europe- Empowerment Principles is part of this. exclusive fragrance fers several exclu- based ceo’s last November, the move signals Monday’s event featured several speakers, in Paris with mas- sive experiences, in- the company’s focus on gender equality. including Gaemperle, Phumzile Mlambo- ter perfumer Olivier cluding a trip to the “For us, this is just the illustration of a Ngcuka, executive director of UN Women, Creed, the first beau- Vanity Fair Academy wider objective, which is to have the right and Dayle Haddon, the model and founder ty item offered as Awards party, ward- enabling culture for talent development of WomenOne, whose keynote address was one of the catalogue’s robe and pamper- within the LVMH group,” said Chantal introduced by Pamela Baxter, president signature fantasy ing for $425,000, Gaemperle, LVMH’s group executive vice and ceo of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics gifts in 50 years. of which $400,000 president, human resources and synergies. and Christian Dior. “This is a one- goes to the Heart “When we speak of talent, the majority are Haddon spoke about her organization, time shot,” noted of Neiman Marcus women since they make up 74 percent of her work with women in Kenya, Jordan Emmanuel Saujet, Foundation support- the workforce.” and Turkey, and the importance of edu- chief executive offi- ing youth arts edu- When Gaemperle joined the group cation and the difference it made on the cer of International cation (where the in 2007, women accounted for 27 per- lives of women and their environment. Cosmetics & Perfumes. other $25,000 goes cent of LVMH’s leadership ranks. Since Other ceo’s signing the principles The 186-page is not explained); a then, the number rose to 37 percent. were Sebastian Suhl of Marc Jacobs Christmas Book voyage to Germany According to Gaemperle, the goal, en- International, Janice Sullivan of Edun, weighs in 10 pages The book’s cover. with jeweler Monica Rich dorsed by LVMH ceo Arnault, is to reach Anastasia Ayala of Nude, Beth Neumann heavier than last year’s Kosann to build a bejew- 40 percent next year. of Starboard, Jean Marc Plisson of Fresh (thank goodness the retailer doesn’t eled 18-karat gold locket for $100,000, The U.S. is at the forefront. In North and Charles Gibb of Belvedere. Jean charge by the ounce) and represents and a behind-the-scenes Mardi Gras America, female executives account Andre Rougeot, ceo of Benefit, could not “an important part of Neiman Marcus tour for 12 for $125,000. for half of the LVMH brand presidents, attend and signed via a video. Pierre- and the brand,” said Jim Gold, presi- Shoppers may also fancy a 6-foot- while 45 percent of the management Yves Roussel, chairman and ceo of LVMH dent and chief merchandising officer, tall outdoor floral peacock by Preston level are women. Fashion Group, and Donna Karan signed pointing out that the fantasy gifts are Bailey for $65,000; a custom-designed Regions such as Japan, where the role on behalf of Donna Karan International recognized internationally. This year toy car raceway by Slot Mods USA for of women in culture and society is defined [Caroline Brown, DKI’s incoming ceo, in a first, even a German network TV $300,000; or a trousseau of Leontine differently from that in Europe or the U.S., starts on Jan. 15]. crew covered the catalogue’s unveil- monogrammed linens for bed, bath for instance, still weigh more heavily to- With so much emphasis on women’s em- ing at an event facility in Dallas. and table for $55,000. The annual ward men in leadership positions, as does powerment, Karan felt the need to show Last year the catalogue sold quite “His & Hers” gift is a $50,000 Quadski the wines and spirits division. some love for the opposite gender. As she a few of the pricy, vanguard items that combo watercraft and all-terrain “We launched a number of initiatives put it to the crowd, “Behind every woman are offered purely to generate pub- vehicle styled in playful sea turtle that allow us to move from 27 percent to is a great man.” licity, including all 75 balloon Venus prints by Vilebrequin.