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Publisher’s Letter

angkok is definitely what you would call a “caffeinated” city. Whether it’s old grannies drinking tea by the bucketful, taxi and bus drivers socking back Red Bull in order to stay awake, or urban hipsters sipping single Borigin roast artisanal lattes, there are a lot of liquid stimulants keeping this manic What is metropolis going. Which is why each year we devote one issue to café culture, exploring what’s new in the world of brewers and baristas. We’ve also updated Bangkok 101 our café listings to include many new java joints that have opened up in the past year, and we’ve also got a “coffee cup contest” in which observant readers have Independent and unbiased, a chance to win some cool prizes, including a one night complimentary hotel stay. Bangkok 101 caters to savvy So, order up your favourite dark roast, espresso, or tea blend, turn to page 18, and travellers who yearn for sit back and settle in to this year’s 16-page ‘Café Culture’ issue. more than what they find in Of course, we also have plenty of decaffeinated content as well, including a guidebooks. It brings together an travel story about mountain climbing in Sri Lanka (page 48), exclusive coverage authoritative who’s who of city of the upcoming 18th annual Bangkok International Festival of Dance and Music residents, writers, photographers (page 56), an arts photo feature showcasing the whimsical paintings of Korean and cultural commentators. The artist Gi-ok Jeon (page 60), and a new monthly feature in which we highlight result is a compact and intelligent interesting wine events and dinners going on in Bangkok. Add to this all our regular hybrid of monthly travel guide food, nightlife, film, spa, and music listings, and you may have to order a second and city magazine that takes you cappuccino to get through it all. on and off the well-worn tourist All this and more—including our track. Bangkok 101 employs Bangkok 101 archive and extras— the highest editorial standards, Enjoy. can be found online at www. with no fluff, and no smut. Our bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks editorial content cannot be are all it takes to keep in touch bought. We rigorously maintain with what’s happening in Bangkok the focus on our readers, and our and beyond. And if you as a reader ongoing mission is to ensure they feel there’s something we’re not Mason Florence enjoy this great city as much as covering, but should be, please drop Publisher we love living in it. us a line at [email protected].

BANGKOK 101 PARTNERS

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 5 CONTENTS

CITY PULSE 14 18

10 Metro Beat What’s going on this month in and around Bangkok

14 Out and About Wild Encounter Thailand takes whale watchers on a cetaceous sea adventure

16 Property Profile The Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside hotel 58 celebrates 30 years along the river

CAFÉ CULTURE

18 Best of BKK Artisanal coffee roasters reshape the city’s café scene

22 My Bangkok Meet Dale Lee, co-founder of CoffeeWorks

24 Favourite Cafés 40 Joe’s Bangkok Bangkok big-shots recommend their own personal The old Customs House languishes by the riverside in a favourite coffee spots state of artful decay

26 Café Reviews 42 Very Thai Dean & Deluca; Man Fu Yuan Caffeine tonics fuel the nation

28 Made in Thailand 44 Heritage Elefin coffee brand specializes in Thai-grown coffee The art and arches of Suankularb Wittayalai School

29 Making Merit MiVana’s organic coffee plantations TRAVEL

30 Café Listings 46 Travel Updates Where to find some of the city’s best coffee shops 48 Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand SNAPSHOTS 50 Over The Border 36 Tom’s Two Satangs The slopes of Sri Lanka’s most sacred peak rewards one How Thais have adapted cultures and lifestyles from with an early morning knock on heaven’s door foreign influences

38 Bizarre Thailand ART & CULTURE Jim Algie spends a frenzied night with Bangkok’s corpse collectors 54 Art Updates

56 Art Exhibitions On the cover Bangkok’s latest museum and art gallery openings Bangkok’s best baristas supply the city with daily doses of quality 58 Arts Feature coffee… all good to the last drop! Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance & Music Photo courtesy of CoffeeWorks returns for another season (see story on page 22). 60 Cinema Scope This month’s special film events and screenings

62 Photo Feature A Space to Exist: solo exhibition by artist Gi-ok Jeon

Bangkok 101 is available at:

6 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

CONTENTS

FOOD & DRINK 71 98

68 Food & Drink Updates

70 Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

71 Hot Plates A classic Thai dish gets a revamp at Baan Phadthai

72 Food & Drink Feature Anantara Siam’s World Gourmet Festival returns with a stellar line-up of dinners, brunches, and other events

74 Restaurant Reviews 100 Live Music Saffron; Food Exchange; Celadon; Basil 101’s Rock Philosopher reports on the live music scene

82 Breaking Bread 101 Club Report with Philippe Rusin, the GM of D’Ark Bangkok Check out some of the hottest DJ events this month

84 Eat Like Nym 102 Nightlife Listings Be sure to visit Nang Loeng market for its Khanom Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok Beung Yuan Ya Cham

86 Food & Drink Listings LIFE+STYLE Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok 106 Lifestyle Updates

NIGHTLIFE 108 Spa Deals Bangkok spas offer amazing deals and discounts 92 Nightlife Updates 109 Wellness Reviews 94 Bar Reviews Lifestyles on 26 Rarb

96 Imbibe SIGNING OFF The secret behind Char’s superbly smoked cocktail 110 Did You Know?... 98 Connoisseur’s Corner CoffeeWorks offers barista training for professionals and Wine related news and events in Bangkok amateurs alike

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Craig Sauers, Lekha Shankar, PUBLISHED BY Phen Parkpien Tom Vitayakul, Anne Wong Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. Naritha Yonyubon 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda CONTRIBUTING Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 ART DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHERS Narong Srisaiya Dave Crimaldi, Jirayu Ekkul, PUBLISHER Tel: 02 286 7821 Mason Florence GRAPHIC DESIGNER Wattanapong Hotavaisaya, Fax: 02 286 7829 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Thanakrit Skulchartchai Anupong Hotawaisaya, Nipon [email protected] Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond Riabriang, Chan Kit Yeng ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER STRATEGISTS © Copyright Talisman Media Parinya Krit-Hat Sebastien Berger GENERAL MANAGER Group Co., Ltd 2016. All rights Nathinee Chen Jhone El’Mamuwaldi reserved. No part of this publication may MANAGING EDITOR SALES MANAGER be reproduced without the CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Orawan Ratanapratum Bruce Scott express written, prior permission ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jim Algie, Gary Barber, Luc SALES AND MARKETING of the publisher. Views expressed Pongphop Songsiriarcha Citrinot, Philip Cornwell- Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon in this magazine are not EDITOR-AT-LARGE Smith, Dave Crimaldi, SALES EXECUTIVE necessarily those of the publisher, Joe Cummings Marco Ferrarese, Kiattisak Chanchay which accepts no responsibility WRITER & DIGITAL EDITOR Pawika Jansamakao, for them. Julia Offenberger Reena Karim-Hallberg, DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING Samantha Proyrungtong, COORDINATOR Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Seri Sartsanapiti

CITY PULSE | metro beat

SEPTEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS September 3 The chart-topping Scottish synth-pop band Chvrches will finally make their long-awaited debut appearance here in Bangkok, as the official headliners of Tiger Jam’s Centerstage music festival. Also in the line up are local TED TALKS indie rockers Polycat, Somkiat, Jelly Rocket, September 4 Chvrches and several others. Sharing ideas that are worth spreading It’s going to be a into communities around the world is massive night of quality live music, with visuals from local artists such as Note the aim behind TEDxChulalongkornU, Dudesweet, Eyedropper Fill, and Tuna Dunn. The concert takes place at BITEC an independently organized TEDx Bangna Hall (88 Bang Na-Trat Rd), with ticket prices set at B1,000 and B1,500. event put together by Chulalongkorn Doors are set to open at 3pm for the day-long event. University students. As the title of www.thaiticketmajor.com the event implies, Take Off, Go For It, which is being presented at the September 8 Siam-Pic Ganesha Theatre (1 Pathum The Montreal-based Wan), encourages participants to go pop-punk band Simple further and jump out of their comfort Plan are set to blow zones. Learn about the stories, ideas, the roof offMoonstar talents, and passions of those who Studio (Studio 8, have successfully found their ideal Ladprao Soi 80) as they creative paths. The event runs from bring their Taking One 1pm till 6pm, and tickets are priced at For The Team Tour 2016 B200, B500, and B1,500 each. to Bangkok this month. www.tedxchulalongkornu.com The award-winning five-piece band have released five studio MODERN DANCE albums to date, as well as two live albums, and September 22-25 have performed numerous times on theVans Warped Tour. Get set for a night This month Jitti Chompee, a premier of beer chugging and body slamming. Tickets are B2,800 and showtime is 8pm. Thai choreographer, presents his www.thaiticketmajor.com latest creation entitledRed Peter, at the Bangkok CityCity Gallery September 10 (13/3 Sathorn 1, South Sathorn Rd). What happens Animalism, absurdity, and evolution when three wildly are corresponding concepts that experimental musical prevail in Chompee’s work—inspired virtuosos—one in part by Franz Kafka—and this American, one German, performance draws from the many and one British—get elements of an ape’s journey of together to form learning to behave like a human. This a prog-rock-fusion creative project premiered at the supergroup? The answer Korzo Theatre in The Hague this past comes in the form of June, and Canadian dancer Benjamin The Aristocrats, and this Tardif, who studied Khon dance drama super group are bringing at the College of Dramatic Arts of their Tres Caballeros world tour to Bangkok for one night only, gracing the Sukhothai in Thailand, is the primary stage of the M Theatre (2884/2 New Phetchaburi Rd). Prepare for a mind- cast member. Tickets are B800, and blowing night of musical genius with Guthrie Govan (guitar), Bryan Beller B350 for students, and show starts (bass) and Marco Minnemann (drums). The show starts at 8pm and tickets are each evening at 7:30pm. B800, B1,500 and B2,500. www.18monkeysdancetheatre.com www.thaiticketmajor.com

10 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com metro beat | CITY PULSE

SEPTEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS Stanislavsky Ballet September 13 The renowned American a capella band Pentatonix, that has amassed hundreds of millions of views on YouTube, is coming to Bangkok for a Soundbox music event this month. The five-member, multi-racial group—made up of four guys and one girl—has been making waves in the music industry since 2012, receiving Grammy awards and many other accolades. Experience the magic of hearing complex music, made using only vocals, by attending this one-of-a-kind performance. The show is at MUSIC & DANCE Muang Thai GMM Live House, located on the 8th floor of Central World, and it starts at 7pm. Tickets are priced at B2,000. From September 8 www.thaiticketmajor.com From September 8th to October 19th, the Bangkok International Festival September 22 of Dance and Music 2016 brings As part of the Italian Festival in Thailand, renowned guitarist over 40 artists from across the world Alessio Monti will be performing at the Bangkok Art and Cultural to perform at the Thailand Cultural Centre (BACC Auditorium). Mr. Monti is widely versed in musical Center. This is the 18th edition of explorations, and his expertise can be seen both in his playing this hugely anticipated annual event, and in his instrument itself, which features a kalimba as well and things begin with three nights as a resonator. Monti currently lives in Thailand, working for of performances by the Moscow the Music College of Payap University in Chiang Mai as a Stanislavsky Ballet—September lecturer. His concert begins at 7pm, and admission is free. 8, 9 and 11—followed by India’s www.ambbangkok.esteri.it extraordinary Aditi Mangaldas Dance Company on the 14th of the month. September 30 Other international performances Yes, it’s true, the Queen + Adam will showcase celebrated touring Lambert tour is making a stop companies from as far afield as in BKK, at Impact Arena Muang Germany, Switzerland, France, Israel, Thong Thani, and fans of the wildly Canada, Spain, Turkey, and the USA. successful 70s and 80s supergroup Some visitors however will be from are already stoked to hear such not so distant locales, including anthemic classics as “We Are the award-winning China National The Champions”, “Fat Bottomed Acrobatic Troupe from Beijing who Girls” and, of course, “Bohemian will be doing an evening performance Rhapsody”. Singer Adam Lambert, on Friday, September 30th, followed who rose to fame in 2009 after finishing as the runner-up on Season 8 of by afternoon shows on Saturday and American Idol, will be taking the place of the late Freddie Mercury for this Sunday (October 1st and 2nd). Ticket epic rock spectacle. The prices for tickets range from B2,000 to B8,000. prices differ for each performance, www.thaiticketmajor.com ranging from B600 to B4,500. www.bangkokfestivals.com

AFRO LATIN FESTIVAL Chinese Acrobats September 30-October 3 Get set for three consecutive days and nights of non- stop music and fun as the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok plays host to the Kizobasa Afro Latin Festival. The line up of events includes 35+ hours of musical workshops as well as three nights of musical performances and parties. The all-inclusive festival ‘Full Pass’ is priced at B5,250, or you can get the ‘Party Pass’ for just B1,400. Festivities start on Friday night, from 8pm till 2am, and Saturday and Sunday the festival runs from 11am till 2am. Turn to page 58 for further coverage of www.kizobasa.com this exciting festival of the arts.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 11 CITY PULSE | metro beat

INDIAN CLASSICAL MUSIC September 17 From 6pm till 9:30pm there will be a special Indian classical music concert featuring renowned tabla maestro Ustad Zakir Hussain, presented at The National Theatre (2 Rachini Rd). Hussain’s father—also a revered figure in Indian classical music—began his son’s musical education when the boy was just three years old. STAND-UP COMEDY Regarded as a child prodigy, Hussain was a touring musician by the age September 11 of 11. Joining this award-winning artist on stage will be such accomplished The folks behind the Comedy Club musicians as Sabir Khan (master of the sarangi), Balwant Singh Namdhari Bangkok—which continues to have (vocalist), Kirpal Singh Panesar, (master of the tar shehnai), and additional comedy events every Friday evening tabla courtesy of Harpreet Singh Namdhari. The performance is free, but it at the Royal Oak Pub—are doing is recommended that you register online beforehand. Call 086 621 0222, or something a bit special this month email [email protected]. by bringing English-Irish stand-up comedian Jimmy Carr to the 600- seat ballroom at the Westin Grande SWING DANCE SPECTACULAR Sukhumvit (259 Sukhumvit Rd) for two shows in one evening. Carr, known for September 24 his signature laugh, deadpan delivery, Bangkok’s hep cats are gathering and dark humour, will no doubt find this month for Diga Diga Doo, an plenty of sacred cows to skewer when unforgettable evening of live music, he touches down in BKK. Tickets range social dancing, and shows taking in price from B1,800 to B3,200, and place at the Shanghai Mansion (481 the showtimes are 7pm and 9:30pm. Yaowarat Rd), a stunning, 1930s-style Visit the website to purchase tickets. hotel with a palatial ballroom. Jump www.comedyclubbangkok.com and jive to a big band led by legendary New York pianist Gordon Webster, along with the vocal stylings of Hetty THEATRE SHOW Kate. In addition there will be Lindy Hop performances, a scintillating Starts September 25 burlesque revue, and some jaw- This month the Bangkok Community dropping tap dancing displays. The Theatre presents the play Art, written evening’s entertainment gets underway by Yasmina Reza, which will be staged at 8pm, and tickets are B1,200 in at the Blue Box Studio M Theatre advance, and B1,500 at the door. (2884/2, New Petchaburi Rd). The Hetty Kate www.digadigadoobkk.com story centres around a man named Serge, who buys a painting, and the reactions of his friends, Marc and SPORTING EVENTS Yvan, to his purchase. For Marc, the purchase of this painting threatens September 25 to wreck his friendship with Serge. The first annualAWC Run for Dek Thai takes place at Lumpini Park, and Meanwhile Yvan tries to mediate the runners taking part will be competing for a good cause, namely theAmerican disaffection between his two friends, Women’s Club (AWC) Scholarship Program which raises often at the cost of redirecting their funds to help underprivileged girls in rural Thailand hostilities upon himself. There will be finish high school. Tickets are priced at B350 and five performances in total—September B1,000 but you are welcome to donate more if 23, 24, 29, 30, and October 1—and you wish. The run starts at 5pm and finishes at tickets are B500. Showtime each 7pm, and the distances are 10k, 7.5k, 5k evening is 7:30pm, and the poster and 2.5k. Participants should register for warns of “adult language” so please the event by visiting the official website. leave the kiddies at home. www.awcthailand.org/register_ www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com runfordekthai

12 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com RESORT HUA HIN CITY PULSE | out & about

Bryde’s whales at feeding time Photo Jirayu by Ekkul Whale of a Daytrip Wild Encounter Thailand specializes in cetaceous sea adventures

By Jim Algie

ew sights in the animal kingdom existed on planet earth, and is severely Irrawaddy dolphin, and two much are more spellbinding than endangered today: the Blue Whale, rarer species, the finless porpoise the sight of a Bryde’s whale whose heart alone can weigh 200 kgs. and the Indo-Pacific humpback Fbreaking the water’s surface to open Whale watching is a pastime dolphin. Wild Encounter Thailand its cavernous maw, which remains many would associate with Alaska, is the only company that offers agape for a minute or two, as fish Australia, or the Maritime region of argosies to spot these cetaceans. try to leap out and seabirds dive and Canada, but the Gulf of Thailand is The pier for their converted fishing screech in a bid to snap up some live a feeding and breeding ground for trawler, which can accommodate up supper in mid-air. a resident population of some 40 to 40 guests, is only an hour’s drive That’s how these goliaths feed. Bryde’s whales. These leviathans, from Bangkok, in the coast-kissing Known as baleen whales, because they which are up to 14-meters long province of Samut Sakhon. have baleen plates instead of teeth, and 18-tonnes humongous, are the From the first downpours of the this group of filter feeders includes largest out of four marine mammals monsoon season in May, until the end the largest mammal that has ever in the gulf, the others being the of the calendar year, the company

14 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com out & about | CITY PULSE

On the lookout

Dorsal fin of a Bryde’s whale breaking the surface of the water Irrawaddy dolphin Photo Jirayu by Ekkul does outings almost every Saturday the calves will go their own way. and Sunday. But the peak season for We were only 15 or 20 minutes sightings is September and October, out to sea when the crew spotted because that’s when the anchovies, a small pod of Irrawaddy dolphins. and other small fish the whales feed Unlike other dolphin species, these on, are most plentiful. hump-headed creatures have no beak, The company’s founder and main and are not renowned for their leaping guide is Jirayu Ekkul, a man with ability. However, they are incredibly

lots of experience both above and fast swimmers, coming up to gulp Jirayu Ekkul Photos Bruce by Scott beneath the waves, as an underwater down some air every minute or so, photographer, NGO worker, and a their whole bodies rising up out of the hard to take a decent photo (even consultant on sustainable tourism water in spumes of foam. though the whale swam around the enterprises that aim to help locals That scene whetted our collective boat for a good 20 minutes, surfacing navigate the high tides and shoals of appetites for more cetaceans, a at irregular intervals). launching similar odysseys within the category that includes both whale After that adrenaline burst of kingdom. and dolphin species, but hours rolled excitement, the next few hours Wild Encounter Thailand prides by as we scanned the waves for more drifted past in a relaxing torpor with itself on being an eco-sensitive dorsal fins without a single sighting. At many passengers taking a snooze, venture. For one thing, they do not least the scenery of deep green water but no one laying an eyeball on any use any electronic devices to track and dark blue islands was good, the more whales. To make up for our the creatures—all the spotting is done saltwater smells rejuvenating, and the mild disappointment, on the way by eye—and they make the tours as metropolitan madhouse of Bangkok back to port a pod of perhaps 10 educational as possible. Jirayu, a fluent reduced to a negligible smudge on Irrawaddy dolphins burst from the English speaker and self-taught expert the horizon—a tableau of matchbox waves in front of the boat. It was in marine biology, begins every tour by buildings and toothpick spires. late afternoon and the horizon had briefing all his guests. First he showed It was just after a Thai buffet lunch darkened to deep blue, the sunlight us a map of the Gulf of Thailand, onboard when the excited cries of coming down in shafts through the with the five big rivers feeding into it, the crew had us scrambling for the clouds as the dolphins streaked before giving us some historical facts bow. Some 20 meters away was the through the water—two or four of about one of its largest inhabitants, dorsal fin of a Bryde’s whale slicing them breaking the waves at the same the Bryde’s whale (pronounced through the water. Soon it vanished time to make the passengers coo with “Brudas” after the Norwegian whaler beneath the waves. Everyone had awe as if they’d just seen a firework who first discovered them only to their cameras out, craning their necks flower across the sky. We frantically promptly turn around and try to to see where it would surface next. tried to follow them with our harpoon some of them). With a hiss the whale spouted a viewfinders for a spectacular photo Jirayu explained that these largely fine mist of water as it resurfaced to finish to our whale of a daytrip. solitary animals tend to forage by draw another breath on the other side themselves. The only pairs one is likely of the boat. Each time it breached, For more details, or to book a whale to encounter are mothers with their its grey back slid up and across the watching trip, visit Wild Encounter calves. At the age of two or three, surface for perhaps a dozen seconds, Thailand online. already skilled in survival techniques, making it easy to catch a glimpse but www.wildencounterthailand.com

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 15 CITY PULSE | property profile

Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside Bangkok’s historic hotel celebrates 30 years along the river

By Bruce Scott

f you could travel back in time and see Bangkok’s Chao furnished guest rooms and suites, ranging in size from the Phraya River 30 years ago, you probably wouldn’t 34 sq.m Deluxe rooms, to the two 170 sq.m Presidential recognize it. Back then there were just a handful of Suites. There are also dedicated non-smoking floors, as Iluxury hotel properties dotting either side of the river, and well as ‘special needs’ accessible guestrooms for the the new kid on the block back in 1986 would have been the elderly and physically challenged. Menam Riverside hotel. Fast forward again to 2016 and On a recent visit I settled into one of the 52 sq.m the city’s riverbanks are now overflowing with 4 and 5 star Executive Plaza Suites, which all come furnished with twin hotels, premium condo developments, and lifestyle malls. or king-sized beds and include a separate lounge area with But through it all the Menam remained firmly in place, sofa and coffee table, a work desk, two flatscreen TVs— rebranding itself in November of 2007 as the Ramada one in the lounge and one in the bedroom—and an en Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside. And in honour of its suite bathroom that includes both a bathtub and separate pearl anniversary, the hotel is hosting a grand reception in shower. And just to remind me of how choice my location their ballroom on the 14th of September, 2016. truly was, my windows both looked out over the river It’s not hard to see why this vacation haven continues and the Asiatique The Riverfront community mall and to maintain a foothold along what is arguably Bangkok’s entertainment complex, which is practically the hotel’s most valuable real estate. The hotel features 525 tastefully next door neighbour.

16 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com property profile | CITY PULSE

Executive Plaza Suite Afternoon Tea

These Executive Plaza Suites also come with in the Terrace@72 restaurant. The selection and quality Ramada club privileges, including private check in/out, here is both impressive and extensive (don’t pass up the complimentary city calls, use of the boardroom, shoeshine lamb curry or the lemon butter salmon). Of course, fine service, late check-out and more, as well as access to the dining can also be had at the hotel’s elegant Eurasian Grill 15th floorClub Members Lounge where a complimentary restaurant, which is re-opened as of last year. afternoon tea is served daily from 2pm till 4pm, and evening cocktails and canapés are on offer during the NOTE: During the hotel’s anniversary month they are daily “happy hour” (6pm till 7:30pm). This spacious private offering several special promotions, including “spend lounge is also a great place to have breakfast—especially B1,000 get B1,000” dinner vouchers. And if September 7th with the morning sun streaming in through the many large happens to be your birthday as well, you’ll receive a windows—and although the delicious buffet selection is B3,000 voucher which can be used towards room stays or slightly smaller than in the main breakfast area on the dining in any of the hotel’s F&B outlets. ground level, the peace and quiet up on the 15th floor is a welcome bonus to many (especially those of us who love a leisurely read of the morning paper over coffee). Of course if you prefer your morning meal by the banks of the river then the daily breakfast buffet at Terrace@72 is where you should steer yourself. The selections here are quite varied—catering to Western, Asian, and even Indian palates—and you can choose to sit either in the air-conditioned main room or out on the riverfront terrace overlooking the passing parade of boats and barges that make their way up and down the Chao Phraya each morning. Recreational amenities at the hotel include all the things you’d expect from a 5-star property—including The Waves restaurant spa, fitness room, meeting rooms, and kid’s club—but for many guests the beautiful ground floor swimming pool is the place to congregate and while away the sun drenched Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside afternoons. The pool itself is surrounded by a lush 2074 Charoenkrung Rd. perimeter of jungle greenery, while an ornate wooden Tel: 02 688 1000 Thai-style sala adds the right touch of tropical flavour. I www.ramadaplazamenamriverside.com also like that the ceramic tiles that line the pool’s bottom are a deep shade of blue, making it look like real ocean water. Poolside dining is available at the Coconut Terrace, Know Before You Go inside at The Waves restaurant, or just order drinks and The Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside has its own snacks from the Sala Thai Pool Bar and never leave the shuttle boat service to and from the Sathorn Central Pier comfort of your sun lounger. (at Saphan Taksin BTS station), which runs regularly till 11pm, Finally, at the end of a hard day of relaxing, don’t as well as complimentary tuk tuk service to nearby Asiatique. miss out on the nightly international dinner buffet served

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 17 CAFÉ CULTURE | best of bkk Our Cups Runneth Over Artisanal coffee roasters are reshaping the city’s café scene By Julia Offenberger

raditionally, coffee in Thailand is dark, bitter, and typical Thai coffee style is still ingrained in the overall consumed with lots of sugar, condensed milk, and culture, Bangkok has seen a lot more specialized cafés (usually) ice. It’s available on almost every street and roasters opening up lately, and these businesses are Tcorner, and the beans are typically fully roasted, resulting focusing on quality coffee—trying to perfect the art of in an undistinguishable taste regardless of the coffee’s highlighting each bean’s taste and strength. We spoke origin. In this way prices are kept low but, unfortunately, with three of Bangkok’s most revered artisanal coffee so is the quality. In recent years, however, Thailand’s roasters about their passion for the product, as well as coffee culture has changed and expanded. While the their thoughts about coffee culture in Thailand.

PHIL COFFEE COMPANY

Hidden away at the end of a quiet side soi that branches off Sukhumvit Soi 61,Phil Coffee Company serves quality single origin espressos and filter coffees as well as a few special blends. Open since November 2014, this artisan coffee roastery is run by three siblings: roasterHan Wang, and his sisters Jaszmine and I Wuen. It was during Han’s time studying in Melbourne that he developed a passion for coffee and, inspired by the Australian coffee culture, he visited a roaster in Taiwan and decided to get into the business himself. He attended a short training course, bought a coffee roaster machine, and spent three years experimenting and learning about the process—from roasting and brewing, to extracting and tasting—in a little shop in Bang Na. Thankfully he also made a lot of friends in the industry who were willing to share their knowledge with him. Nowadays, the siblings import beans from all around the world, including Colombia, Kenya, Brazil, Nicaragua, and also Thailand. To keep things interesting, the beans are freshly roasted in small batches every week, and the options change regularly. On the day I visited, the ‘single origin of the day’ was from Kenya, and in order to get the most taste possible I was served a split espresso—one espresso and one piccolo (espresso with milk). It was

Coffee Cup Contest - Match the cups and win! In this issue of Bangkok 101 we have hidden 5 (five) pairs of Coloured Coffee Cups, scattered randomly throughout the magazine. Match them all, and you could win great prizes, including the grand prize of a one-night luxury stay at the Mövenpick Siam Hotel Pattaya (including breakfast for 2). When you have found all 5 pairs, email us the answers at [email protected], and include your full contact details (name, age, address, and phone number). For example, you can phrase your answer like this: “There’s a pair of cups on pages __ and __, there’s a 2nd pair of cups on pages __ and __, there’s a 3rd pair...” and so on. Finally, be sure to “like” our page on Facebook and you’ll be entered into the lucky draw! For complete rules, details, and a list of all the great prizes, just visit our website. www.bangkok101.com

18 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com best of bkk | CAFÉ CULTURE slightly bittersweet in taste with a hint of salt, and quite Tisco Tower at 48/2 Sathorn Rd. The secret of their success strong. For the filter coffee, I tried beans from a farm in is definitively their shared love and passion for coffee—in Colombia that revealed a bit of a floral note. To inform the fact, their story is a true coffee love story. consumer every cup comes with a small card listing the The owners in question are Venezuelan sistersLucia details of the coffee, including the farm, the processing and Marian Aguilar (Marian now lives in Singapore) method, and the coffee’s characteristics. who, along with Lucia’s Thai husband Bret, opened both In addition to their large single origin selection, they outlets. While coffee has always played a major role in also produce two special blends: their house espresso the sisters’ lives—the two grew up on a coffee farm— blend Urso, and their light roasted signature filter Bret discovered his passion for a quality brew while living blend Hummingbird. All of their roasts are available for in London. The English capital was also the place where wholesale—they deliver to several venues, including Bret and Lucia met (in a coffee shop, of course!). After Rocket coffee—and for retail. You can also order moving to Thailand they started missing good quality, online, share a coffee pool with other coffee lovers to properly brewed coffee and so decided to set up their save money, or even sign up for their monthly coffee own business. subscription program in which a selection of different Upon entering their unpretentious, and minimally roasts will be delivered to your home. Or, just pop by this furnished café on the ground floor of the Tisco Tower cool café (open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to (open Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm, and Saturdays 6pm) and discover what you like while enjoying a cup in a from 9am to 5pm), it is evident that in here the world relaxed atmosphere. revolves around coffee. A big blackboard indicates the latest roasting dates, and large plexiglass bins are filled www.philscoffeecompany.com with assorted aromatic beans, offering customers a wide variety of high-quality single-origins and special blends. CERESIA COFFEE ROASTERS Bret explains that most people have no idea of the history and hard work behind every cup, and that’s why After the success of their first outlet on Sukhumvit Soi Ceresia tries to be a sort of meeting point for farmers 31/1, the owners of Ceresia Coffee Roasters branched out and customers. Every cup comes with a tag indicating the just over a year ago and opened their second café in the origin of the bean—my filter coffee was from a Colombian farm called Las Brias—and through their newsletter (available at the shops) they introduce the story of every farmer and their beans. While the couple also delivers their roasted beans to other places across town, including Library Café and Tribeca, their main focus is on retail. “We want to encourage home-brewing,” Lucia explains, adding that it’s important to communicate with customers. They often hand out samples, and help customers understand and appreciate a good cup, as every single step—from growing, processing, roasting, brewing and even grinding—affects the end result. Regarding the coffee scene in Thailand, the Ceresia team believes there is a market for everybody. Thai coffee is still a majority and will never go away, but the artisanal coffee culture is growing as more and more quality cafés pop up and people start to become more interested in the different flavours of beans. In addition, they are happy that this growing demand has had a positive impact on Thai coffee farmers, whose situation has improved dramatically over the past five years. Facebook: Ceresia Coffee Roasters

INK & LION

Located on Soi Ekkamai 2 (off Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 63), and open only from Saturday to Tuesday, from 9am to 6pm, the Ink & Lion serves java junkies superb quality, handcrafted espressos, and pour-overs. The café’s combination of white-painted exposed brick walls lined with interesting artwork, and vintage wooden school tables, makes it a cool hang-out in which to enjoy a quality brew in an arty environment.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 19 CAFÉ CULTURE | best of bkk

The idea to open a coffee shop was inspired while co-owner Adithep ‘Kiak’ Pinijpinyo spent time working in California. Amazed by the large variety and high quality of beans, as well as the general coffee culture in San Francisco, he really started to appreciate a good cup o’ joe. He decided to attend a one-day workshop, and has since been teaching himself how to roast. Together with his partner Pui, he opened Ink & Lion in 2013. However, it was only this year that they started to roast their own beans in small batches. After some years of buying special blends from local roasters, they decided it was time for the next step—in order to shift the focus onto the beans and have more control over the quality and flavour. For now, there are three roasts available—Doi Thong Pattana (Thailand), Hacienda Supracafé (Colombia) and Gulili (Ethiopia)—and although the selection might be limited, each batch is of the highest quality, and the beans are also available for retail. A lot of thought has also been put into the packaging, and each of the three roasts has its own colour scheme, which both conveys its flavours and helps customers to decide. Kiak believes that Bangkok’s artisanal coffee scene is fast developing, and there is great potential for expansion. For Pui and himself, their aspiration is to support and present Thai coffee to the world, while at the same time introducing high-quality coffee to local consumers. www.facebook.com/inkandlioncafe

Cold Brew is Definitely Hot As competition in the coffee world heats up, the newest player in the game wants to cool things down. Cold brew coffee, made by soaking ground beans in cold water for 8 to 24 hours—the duration depends on the beans and is crucial for the final taste—is a refreshing alternative to your normal steaming hot espresso or frothy hot latte. And it’s becoming commonplace on more and more menus across town. But be warned… it contains nearly double the caffeine of conventionally brewed coffee. One of the newest additions to the cold brew scene is Bhava Café, a tiny greenish grey kiosk tucked away in a collection of food stalls on Naradhiwas Soi 1 (not far from the Sala Daeng BTS station) which specializes in ‘nitro cold brews’. Never heard of such a thing before? Well, basically it’s cold brew coffee infused with nitrogen, giving it a frothy and smooth texture similar to Guinness stout. And, just like beer, it is stored in a keg and served from a modified beer tap. The inspiration for the café came to Thai owner ‘Bank’ while he was studying and working as a barista in Sydney. When he returned to Thailand his goal was to start serving good quality coffee, and so he began to hand out free coffee in front of his house every morning for a year, before deciding to open his own stall at the beginning of July. After buying and modifying beer equipment and testing the perfect brewing times, he now offers a small selection of coffee with or without (B50/60) milk, as well as Thai tea. Because this type of brew can be produced in large quantities and stored in kegs, it makes it easier for Bank to both control and keep up the quality of each final cup, and continue working as a full-time engineer. In the future he hopes to roast his own beans, but for now he explains to a roaster the exact profile he wants, after which he tastes the beans and only buys if they are up to his standard and requirements. In his shop there are just two different types of beans to choose from—both grown Thailand—which allows him to keep prices low and compete with the standard instant coffee, while supporting Thai coffee farmers to improve their coffee. However be aware that the shop is only open Monday to Friday, and only from 7am to 2:30pm. So no weekend wake-ups just yet. www.facebook.com/bhavacafe

20 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

CAFÉ CULTURE | my bangkok Dale Lee Drinking more than a dozen cups of coffee a day may seem strange to some, but for businessman Dale Lee it comes with the territory. His company CoffeeWorks is all about coffee—taking care of roasting, distribution, equipment supplies, and even offering barista lessons.

devout bachelor, unashamed and sharing that with customers. workaholic, and jazz musician, Since that time there have been many Dale Lee is also the co- others offering a 3rd wave coffee Afounder of CoffeeWorks (100/68 experience, and finally those kinds of Sukhumvit Soi 26), one of Thailand’s operations are arriving in Thailand. first coffee roasters and equipment solution providers. After working for What do you think about Bangkok’s years in the coffee industry in the artisanal coffee scene? US, at a time when the coffee shop It’s great, and I’d like to see it expand a business model started to boom and 100 times more than it is now. In fact, companies like Starbucks were just just about three years ago some of my developing, he and his best friend friends in the industry got together Andrew Stotz began their own start- and formed the ‘Specialty Coffee up in Thailand, back in 1995. However, Association of Thailand’. It will help it was not an easy road. They educate more consumers that there’s experienced huge obstacles, and were also something way beyond than your nearly forced out of business, but now standard cup of coffee. they are supplying over 500 coffee What is important to you in a café, shops throughout the kingdom— and what are some cafés doing better Where does CoffeeWorks source its helping customers choose the right than others? beans from? Do you source beans beans, the right machines, and even I like shops that are offering other from Thailand? offering top-notch barista training. things besides espresso. One of our We source coffee from all around the friends is a place called Gallery Drip world, including Kenya and Tanzania, What brought you to Thailand, and and, in fact, they don’t even offer pretty much every coffee growing why did you decide to stay? espresso, they only offer hand-poured country in Central and South America, My business partner Andrew moved coffees—which is a really great way to and Thailand. In fact, we were here first, and when I came in the early experience a single origin coffee. Cold recognised last year by the American 90s to visit him I saw a lot of Western brew is another way. We are helping Chamber of Commerce in their CSR influence, but the coffee market was some of our customers do cold brew, work ceremony for the funding still pretty much just instant coffee. and we are going to be launching development we’ve done with the That was the beginning of my idea to some interesting cold brew related hill tribe coffee growing in Northern start a small roasting business. Now I’ve solutions for our B2B customers in the Thailand. About ten years ago, we been here 21 years and I’ve really fallen near future. started funding better quality coffee, in love with Thailand, Thai culture, Thai what we call natural pulped or honey people and Thai food, and I love living The coffee industry in Thailand has processed coffee. in this part of the world. developed enormously in the last decade. Why do you think that is? How do you drink your coffee and Where do you like to drink coffee in What we have observed over the what coffee maker do you use? the city? last 2-3 years in particular is what Generally, I like espresso, or single I will say, for transparency, that my is referred to as “3rd wave coffee”. origin drip coffee, or French press answers will be biased to customers This movement gained traction about because then I can taste the coffee. I that we supply, like Dean & Deluca 10 years ago in the US, represented drink about 14 cups a day, as it’s one for example. I love drinking my coffee by three key companies: Counter of the most antioxidant rich foods you there and I also like their ambiance and Culture, Intelligentsia and Stumptown. can drink. But I never put in sugar, and design. We have a new customer called Typically, it talks a lot about the supply rarely milk. When we are developing Holey Artisan Bakery, who just opened chain—sharing the details of the green a new coffee I’ll try it in each different a new branch on Sukhumvit Soi 31, and coffee, talking about the origin of the format and see what works best. they have the most unbelievable and coffee and the history of the farm, and amazing baked goods. talking in detail about the roast profile www.coffeeworks.co.th

22 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

CAFÉ CULTURE | favourite cafés I Coffee “What’s your favourite café and why?” The same question, but many different answers

SAMANTHA PROYRUNGTONG Occupation: Founder of Extrovert, a Bangkok-based PR and digital marketing agency, and Vivin, a gourmet food company she runs with her partner Years in Bangkok: 10 Born in: Australia

“My favourite café, for a number of reasons, would be Phil Coffee Company. Firstly, because I believe in a certain level of cronyism—that you should support your closest friends—and the Wangs are a lovely Malay/Taiwanese family who are passionate about coffee and are always so hospitable. Apart from serving great coffee, Mama Wang sometimes WILL C. CORBIN offers us her family meals, likeNasi Goreng Occupation: Musician (various bands, or Rendang. I’m still waiting for them including Jenny & The Scallywags) to put these dishes on a menu (hint, Years in Thailand: 6 years in Bangkok, hint!). Secondly, the coffee really is 11 in Thailand excellent. They select fine coffee Born in: United States beans from all over the globe, and roast them in their quaint townhouse “I’m a big fan of Holey Artisan Bakery. café. They offer iced and hot lattes, It’s a bakery on Sukhumvit Soi 31 cappuccinos, and Americanos, and (which is also near where I live). They various sweet cakes and pastries. What’s also have amazing bakery goods made cool about this place, but makes it difficult for fresh every day. The coffee is pretty others, is that it’s hidden quite well—in fact it’s damn good too, but admittedly the damn near impossible to find. On Ekkamai Soi bread stuff is the reason I’m there so 61 look out for the small sign (across the street much. I usually order a latte and one from Counting Sheep Corner) and follow the of their ham and cheese croissants— winding backstreet until you reach the dead literally the most amazing ham and end, which meets with a charming two-storey cheese croissant I’ve ever had!” house with ample parking in front.”

TEK HARRINGTON Occupation: Architect by day, DJ by night (Maggie Choo’s, Ce La Vi, and others) Born in: Bangkok, with a short 20-year stint in Northern England

“I’ve been going to Roots since it was just a small rudimentary café on Ekkamai. My coffee drinking habit isn’t one which conjures up a relaxing affair; sitting down and drinking your coffee as you watch the world go by, maybe even partaking in some people-watching, isn’t my thing. Coffee to me is a habitual routine much like going for a morning piss—it serves a purpose and without it, my day wouldn’t be complete, or in this case wouldn’t get started. Roots at The Commons (Thonglor Soi 17) is perfect for me. It’s a short 10 minute drive from my condo, with a small little kiosk with attentive and efficient staff making it just the right choice for a “grab and go” visit. But the main reason I keep coming back, day-in day-out, is because of how intense, strong, and fistful-of-flavour their espressos are. If you like your espresso like a ‘roided up Gary Coleman— short, dark, and strong—then pop in and ask for an espresso to be made with the strongest bean they have. They usually have two different coffee beans to choose from.”

24 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com favourite cafés | CAFÉ CULTURE

RIKA DILA Occupation: Accidental restaurateur (Surface Kitchen & Garden Lab, Cafe Chilli), currently a judge on The Face Thailand, Season 3 Years in Bangkok: 40… give or take Born in: Bangkok, but a true citizen of the world

“The debate has always been American style coffee vs. European style coffee. Personally, I love my ‘New World’ (NW) coffee. A 20 oz. venti latte with lots of milk—it’s basically my breakfast and my therapy session. Plus in the US, or at least the NW, my latte comes with froth and amazing froth art. In Europe they think it’s a crime to have your coffee like that, and their coffee is way too strong for me as well. In Bangkok, I think most good coffee places are more European in outlook. Thus creating scenarios where I’ve had foot stomping outbursts in “hipster cool” coffee snob places when I order a latte and get basically a cafe au lait… no froth, plus it’s only the size of the palm of my hand! D’Ark (Sukhumvit Soi 49, and EmQuartier, 651 Sukhumvit Rd) most closely gives me the satisfaction of sitting in a very comfortable setting and having a great latte—not large but beggars can’t really be too choosy. Besides, the staff at both branches are way too nice to make me stomp my feet. Plus there’s the upside of having yummy ceviche and salads. And did I mention great tasting latte?”

JOE CUMMINGS TIM FOOTMAN Occupation: Writer (Bangkok 101, among Occupation: Editor and writer others), traveller, and musician (Thailand Tatler, CNN, Guardian, etc.) Years in Bangkok: 20+ Years in Bangkok: 13 Born in: United States Born in: United Kingdom

“I recently re-discovered Kuppa (Sukhumvit Soi 16) after a long absence. When it opened in 1998, it was the first place in Bangkok to roast coffee beans on the premises. I was blown away the first time I walked in and saw the large roaster looming over the cafe. It was over a decade later before other places caught up. Besides the still-excellent bean selection, including eight single- origin coffees, I like that you can order French press style. I enjoy the calm ambience, varied sitting areas, and cozy sofas, perfect for a long morning of caffeine-fixing. My favorite food on the menu is the port duck liver parfait.” “My favourite café would have to be Ceresia, in the Tisco Tower (Sathorn VINCENT SUNG Rd). I like this branch of Ceresia for Occupation: Photographer, writer, content producer, and creative director what it isn’t. It’s not a lame parody Years in Bangkok: 6 years total in Thailand of a hipster dive in Williamsburg or Born in: Korea (raised in Belgium) Shoreditch, with self-consciously “artisanal” crap nailed to the walls. On my first visit to Jones The Grocer I marvelled Instead, the minimal, faintly Nordic at the familiar products I was missing from blonde-wood vibe means all the focus is home—having grow up in Belgium and France. on the coffee itself. There’s a revolving I could smell both the fresh coffee beans being selection of beans, including some good freshly ground, and the coffee being served up by Thai varieties, and I inevitably order the talented barista. Later I got to chatting with whatever they’re recommending as the restaurant manager who also happened to be a filter, black, strong, no interference. the owner. He was so humble that his title on his There are a few cakes but I rarely business card doesn’t actually say who he really bother. Service is warm, polite and is. I return here for breakfast whenever I miss efficient but they don’t pretend to be European style breakfasts or brunch. They have all your best friend. Nobody knows my the dishes I crave from back home! name. And sometimes I like it that way.”

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 25 CAFÉ CULTURE | café review Dean & Deluca A taste of the Big Apple in Bangkok

elebrating its sixth year in butternut squash salad (B175-350) treat we shared the Banana nutty Thailand, New York based Dean which was tossed in a tasty olive caramel sundae (B195), a concoction & Deluca has become one of oil and apple cider vinaigrette, and of vanilla ice-cream, caramel sauce, Cthe city’s favourite eateries and go-to sprinkled with parmesan, thyme and banana, waffle crisps, almond icing marketplaces for gourmet food and toasted nuts. Alternatively, try one of and a macaron on top. quality products. With six stores in their best-selling dishes—the Salmon All these dishes we sampled at Bangkok—the flagship outlet being teriyaki (B325). The seared fish filet is their MahaNakhon location are also their stylish deli at MahaNakhon Cube served with a flavourful teriyaki glaze available at their sixth and newest Building at Chong Nonsi BTS station— and accompanied by heirloom carrots, branch which recently opened at they offer customers everything from shiitake mushrooms and grilled The Crystal shopping complex (GF, mouth-watering meals and grocery asparagus. Crystal Veranda) on Ekamai-Ram Intra goods, to an extensive selection of For something heartier to Road. While this outlet features a handcrafted coffee. Every cup is made accompany your afternoon coffee, café, dining area, and a small retail with their special in-house blends, and we recommend the Tiger prawn section, its focus also extends to wine. while the namesake MahaNakhon fettuccini (B425). The house-made Both an entire shelf on the back wall Roast is used for black brews, their pasta is covered in refreshingly spicy as well as a column in the centre of Bangkok Blend is matched with cilantro lime pesto, with chilli, garlic, the restaurant display numerous frothy milk and served with skillful cashews, and organic sea caviar. It’s bottles of red and whites, making latte art. These two blends, as well as then topped with white marinated for an extraordinary wine and dine many others, are sourced from local anchovy and two meaty black tiger experience. by Julia Offenberger suppliers and also available for retail. prawns—a perfect balance of Thai and If you are heading to D&D for Italian cuisine. Meanwhile, meat lovers brunch, there’s a number of all-day should definitely try the Red wine Dean & Deluca breakfast items to pair with your braised lamb shank (B495), drizzled MahaNakhon Cube Building morning java fix, including a delicious with a demi-glaze and served with GF, Cube Building plate of Espresso spiced seared tuna creamy potato dauphinoise, roasted 92 Narathiwas Ratchanakharin Rd. (B445), served with avocado, salsa, tomatoes and green asparagus. Tel: 02 023 1616 egg, and micro greens. Those with a sweet tooth will be Open daily: 7am-11pm As a light lunch or side dish, spoilt for choice as the café offers a Other outlets: Central Embassy, EmQuartier, we were really impressed with large selection of cakes, pastries and Park Ventures Ecoplex and Sathorn Square. the Spinach, roasted pumpkin and dessert options. As an after-dinner- www.deandeluca.com/thailand

26 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com café review | CAFÉ CULTURE Man Fu Yuan Afternoon High Tea with a Dim Sum twist

here’s an overground movement happening in the international foodie Tscene—small bags of dried herbs are appearing in haunts where caffeine has long dominated. Now tired of bully brand giants and hipster corrupted cafes, teahouses are becoming a thing… again. The masterminds behind Singapore’s Man Fu Yuan teahouse recently opened Man Fu Yuan Kitchen on the 8th floor ofHelix EmQuartier. This is their second, “more casual”, Bangkok branch (the other being their upscale venue at Rajpruek Golf Club Bangkok). For “high tea” rookies like myself, the magic traditionally happens between 2pm and 5pm where tea is the master, and dim sum the loyal disciples. It’s during this time that MFY offer their ‘High Tea’ promotion, consisting of a 2 Tier (B399) or 3 Tier (B599) dim sum stand—loaded with an assortment of savoury and sweet edibles—combined with tea. The range of tea here is rich, expansive, and deeply rooted in tea history and knowledge. Combine this with advancement in tea technology and flavour development and you have all the makings of a high tea revolution. The restaurant’s polished marble tables, all-white Colonial British interior, The dim sums accompaniments in discovering it for yourself—what booth seating, and nostalgic Chinese were arguably some of the best works for your palate, your mood, pieces is a seamless integration of I’ve had in Bangkok, in quality and your spirit. In short: “What will take contemporary Hong Kong and old technicality. The Deep-fried chilli crab me to another level?” And the good fashioned English tea room, with a bun, and the Japanese sweet potato news is, city folk don’t have to skulk touch of Ming Dynasty. It doesn’t with custard lava, are both specimens down Chinatown alleys to get their impose itself enough to be a suit and of dim sum craftsmanship. hit of the good herbal… it’s a BTS ride high-hair only establishment, but a From the main menu the World’s away. So venture into the mysterious Sunday dress could easily blend in. best radish cake with X.O. sauce new (old) world of Cantonese High We tried a variation of teas (B150) was a culinary revelation—who Tea. You won’t regret it. (hot and cold) and each one tells a knew radish could taste that good— by Samantha Proyrungtong different story. TheDouble Blossom and the classic Tea smoked duck is a flower tea—mild, softly sweet (only B350!), with its intense smoky and highly aromatic—while thePu-er flavour and tenderness, is perhaps the Man Fu Yuan is potent and earthy but strangely ultimate drawcard. 8F, Helix Quartier at EmQuartier addictive, and the5 Elements Blend, As Confucius said: “Everything 693,695 Sukhumvit Rd. like the name suggests, takes you on has beauty, but not everyone sees Tel: 02 003 6240 a voyage of mineral, earth, wood, it”. For non-tea geeks it all might Open daily: 10am-10pm aroma, and spice. seem intimidating, but the beauty is www.facebook.com/manfuyuanbkk

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 27 CAFÉ CULTURE | made in thailand From Farm to Cup Elefin shares its passion for speciality Thai coffee

By Julia Offenberger

rom Kenya and Tanzania to Nicaragua and Indonesia— when it comes to specialised Fcafés and coffee shops in Bangkok, internationally imported beans are well represented and often favoured over their local counterparts for various reasons. For starters, unlike rice or tapioca, coffee has never been an important crop for Thailand and, despite offering ideal conditions, growing the dark beans has never really been government funded or subsidized. This results not only in a much smaller production scale but also a lack of quality compared to coffee from many other countries. In order to prove that Thailand the farmers. By ensuring that they Elefin’s commitment to sourcing can also produce excellent quality receive fair compensation for each local and quality products doesn’t stop coffee, some coffee shops have put harvest, Elefin not only supports the at coffee–it is mirrored throughout their focus on sourcing local beans. local communities, but also builds the their entire identity. Their menu One such shop is Elefin Coffee, a small foundation for producing the highest offers a selection of traditional Thai Thai brand which offers customers quality coffee. dishes, including somtam, pad thai 100 percent Thai Arabica coffee, As part of the next step in the and khao soi, as well as different among many other locally sourced farm-to-cup process, the beans are pastries and cakes, with most produce and sustainable products, while paying then roasted in small batches right sourced from organic farms. For the respect to all the hands involved in the here in Bangkok. While living in the US, full experience, even some of their process—from farmers to consumers. the owners of Elefin met Seattle-based ceramics are bought locally, at places This coffee shop “chain” is owned coffee visionaryEd Leebrick from like Chatuchak Market. “We might by Hansar Hotels & Resorts, and Lighthouse Roasters. Internationally pay a higher price, but the quality is opened its first shop on Sukhumvit known and recognized as one of the important to us,” explains Rasmus Soi 1 over ten years ago. Since then, it best coffee roasters in the world, he Poll, Assistant F&B Manager at Hansar has moved to the Siam Museum and shared his expertise and assisted in Hotels & Resorts. the Hansar Bangkok Hotel in Silom, the development of the business for After more than ten successful and opened its most recent addition over fifteen years. To make sure the years, it’s safe to say that their efforts last February, close to Wat Pho in coffee is processed with consistent of offering customers a fully Thai Bangkok’s Old Town. results, he visits Thailand himself, or experience have been well received. Their beans are sourced directly sends baristas to regularly check the However, in Rasmus’ opinion “the from hilltribe farmers— including roast, quality, and even train the staff. best is yet to come”. And, in order to the Akha and Lisu tribes—from a Another priority, designed to pursue their mission, they are always village close to Chiang Rai in northern offer customers the best experience on the lookout for new things to Thailand. Because the beans are possible, is the “freshness” of the expand the Elefin brand, such as their grown in high altitude areas, they are coffee. While at other cafés the coffee new cold brew coffee and juices. less acidic and bitter, resulting in a might be kept for use for up to three more nuanced flavour and smoother months, the beans at Elefin are never taste. While one tribe focuses on the older than one week, meaning the Elefin Coffee cultivation, the other is responsible coffee is brewed at its peak of flavour. Hansar Bangkok Hotel for the processing and ploughing of This same rule applies to their beans 3/250, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd. the beans. Through regular visits and available for retail, in the form of Tel: 02 209 1234 continuous conversations, Elefin has Japanese-style drip coffee, as well as Open daily: 7am-midnight established a close relationship with espresso beans. www.elefincoffee.com

28 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com making merit | CAFÉ CULTURE MiVana Organic Coffee Eco-friendly growing techniques save watershed forests

By Pawika Jansamakao

offee has long been a morning not to deforest or use chemical requires at least 50 percent or more essential for Western nations, agricultural products. The first project of shaded growing conditions in order and as the trend takes firm hold began in 2010, with families living to develop quality beans—therefore Cin Bangkok—and across Thailand—a in watershed forests in Mae Lao, big trees don’t have to be cut down. staggering number of coffee shops Chiang Rai, and has expanded to other Besides this, the volcanic soil in have opened up on every corner across communities over the years. Chiang Rai is fertile enough to grow the city over the past coffee without adding few years. In turn, the chemical fertilizer. high demand for coffee Quality seeds beans has led to coffee are selected by an plantations and related expert to ensure businesses expanding the most effective in many provinces result, and are given throughout Thailand. to famers to grow Unfortunately, on their own farms. however, most of the After harvesting, time these new and/or the coffee beans are expanded plantations extracted within 24 irresponsibly encroach hours—to preserve upon forests and other their freshness—and natural resources. carefully roasted by In fact, large-scale roasters with SCAE deforestation for coffee (Specialty Coffee plantations in southern Association of Europe) and northern Thailand training to ensure the has been affecting highest international global environmental standards of quality. conditions for over a MiVana encourages decade. farming communities This concern to set up their coffee over environmental plantations in the deterioration led to shade of existing the founding of Green forests in order to Net SE Ltd, a social preserve and improve enterprise that grows the condition of and distributes true watershed forests organic Arabica coffee, in the north. In a crop grown without addition, fair trade any negative impact policy ensures that on humans or nature. MiVana is an Communities residing in participating families are compensated organic coffee brand distributed by watershed forests in Mae Lao, Mae with a fair price for their products, and Green Net SE, in cooperation with Saruay, and Mae Korn districts also provided with additional funding the respected conservation network are introduced to the concept of for community development activities. Green Net Foundation. “shade-grown” coffee plantations MiVana is not only contributing to Theerasit Amornsaensuk, as an alternative to growing crops the long-term economic health of managing director of Green Net such as passion fruit, in which the farmers and local communities in SE, explains that the campaign’s farmers are obligated to chop down rural Thailand, but also promoting objective is to provide coffee farmers trees to provide the required amount sustainable use of the region’s with an adequate knowledge of of sunlight. Northern Thailand has a precious natural resources. environmentally friendly growing perfect ecosystem to grow Arabica techniques, and encourage them coffee because this kind of plant www.mivana.co.th

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 29 CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood

Newly opened since 2015 Ann’s Sweet Other Jaywalk Cafe outlets: 138 Phra Athit Rd. Cocowalk (Phaya Thai Rd.) 086 889 1383 | 11am-8pm 092 596 6022 | 10am-9pm ARI facebook.com/page.annsweet Kopi Hya Tai Kee Casa Lapin X Ari Café Velodome 78/4 Prachathipatai Rd. Noble Reform Condo Thammasat University, 12 Prachan Rd. (next to Giant Swing) 8, Phahonyothin Soi 7 02 623 6340 | 8am-8pm 02 621 0828 | 7am-8:30pm 081 261 2040 | 7am-10pm facebook.com/CafeVelodome Other Kopi Hya Tai Kee outlets: facebook.com/CasaLapin 526 Phra Sumen Rd. Other Casa Lapin outlets: Double Dogs 02 629 0646 | 7am-8pm 120/6, Sukhumvit Soi 49 406 Yaowarat Rd. 081 257 7920 | 8:30am-5pm 086 329 3075 | Tue-Thu, 1pm-9pm, Mitramit Teahouse 51, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Fri-Sun, 1pm-10pm 32 Phra Sumen Rd. 02 200 5546 | 8:30am-10pm facebook.com/DoubleDogsTeaRoom 02 126 6567 | Sat-Thu, 2pm-11pm 888/64 Ploenchit Rd facebook.com/mitramitteahouse 091 879 3285 | 7am-9pm Eiah Sae GMM Building, Sukhumvit Soi 23 103-105 Yaowarat Rd. On Lok Yun 096 831 4161 | 7am-10pm 097 242 2870 | 6am-10pm 72 Charoenkrung Rd. www.eiahsaecoffee.com 02 223 9621 | 5:30am-4pm Kaffe by Library Ari Noble Space Elefin Coffee 8/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 4 Sanam Chai Rd. SATHORN-SILOM 081 639 0802 | 9:30am-8:30pm 085 074 4405 | Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm facebook.com/librarycafe www.elefincoffee.com Alphabet Café & Bar Other Elefin Coffee outlets: 198, Soi Pipat 2, Narathivas Rd. Laliart Coffee Hansar Hotel Bangkok 084 432 1758 | 6am-2am 20, Soi Ari 2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 3/250, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd. facebook.com/alphabetcafeandbar 089 142 8203 | Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm 02 209 1234 | 7 am-12 am facebook.com/Laliartcoffee Wat Poh, 394 / 1-2 Maharaj Rd. Cafe Neighbour 02 622 1115 | 8 am-8 pm 466/23 Suan Phlu Rd. Panary Cafe 089 767 3720 | Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm, Noble Reform Condo Farm to Table, Organic Café Sat-Sun, 10am-5pm 8/1, Phahonyothin Soi 7 179 Atsadang Rd., Wang Burapha Phirom facebook.com/cafeneighboratbkk 02 116 6889 | 11am-9pm 02 115 2625 | 10am-8pm facebook.com/panarycafe facebook.com/FarmToTableOrganicCafe Dean & Deluca Other Farm to Table outlets: GF, The Cube Porcupine Café Farm to Table, Hideout Mahanakhon Building 48, Phahonyothin Soi 7 15 Soi Tha Klang 02 023 1616 | 7am-11pm 086 889 9210 | 10am-10pm 02 004 8771 | Thu-Tue, 10am-9pm deandeluca.co.th facebook.com/porcupineari Other Dean & Deluca outlets: Favour Café Sathorn Square, Naradiwas Rd. Puritan Tha Mahara Community Mall 02 108 1208 | 7am-10:30pm 50/5, Soi Ari 5 1/11 Maharaj Rd. Park Ventures, 57 Wireless Rd. 02 357 1099 | Tues-Fri,1pm-10pm, 099 256 4659 | 10am-9pm 02 108 2200 | 9am-8pm Sat-Sun, 11am-10pm facebook.com/favourcafe Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. facebook.com/Puritan.cafe 02 160 5956 | 10am-10pm Happy Espresso EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. Sutdrip 295-297 Mit Phan Rd. 02 261 0464 | 10am-10pm 128/10, Phahonyothin Soi 2 02 221 6099 | 9:30am-5pm 087 907 0099 | 9am-5pm facebook.com/superhappyespresso Dexter Café and Bar facebook.com/sutdrip 56, Sathorn Soi 8 (Soi Pipat) Hook Board Game Cafe North Sathorn Rd. Happio Building, 74 Phra Athit Rd. 02 636 6222 | 9am-11pm OLD TOWN 086 367 6071 | Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm www.dextercafe.com facebook.com/hookcafe Aluco Café Everyday Karmakamet 183 Suan Chitlada Dusit Jaywalk Cafe 1F, Yada Building, Silom Rd. 098 923 2322 | Mon-Fri, 6:30am-6:30pm, 90 Phra Athit Rd. 02 371 148 | Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat 10am-7pm 086 061 7000 | 8am-6pm Sat-Sun, 11am-10pm facebook.com/Alucocafe facebook.com/jaywalkcafe www.everydaykmkm.com

30 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com by neighbourhood | CAFÉ LISTINGS

Flair The Espresso Bar Size S Coffee & Bakery April Story Thaniya Plaza, 52 Silom Rd. 5/25 Soi Ngam Du Phli 3F, Habito Mall 095 245 4942 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-6pm, 02 286 6117 | Mon-Sat, 7:30am-6pm 45/19 Sukhumvit Soi 77 Sat-Sun, 10am-6pm facebook.com/SizeScafe 097 979 6495 | 9am-8pm facebook.com/flairbkk facebook.com/aprilstorycafe Slow Café by Room 111 I Am Coffee 399/5, Silom Soi 7 Artis 44/1, Pipat Soi 2, Sathon Rd. 095 595 4694 | 10:30am-7pm 390/20, Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 18 098 874 5874 | 7am-6pm www.room111.co 02 262 0760 | 6:30am-7pm facebook.com/iamcoffee.sathon8 facebook.com/artisbangkok Tentacles Luka Bangkok 2198/10-11 Brekkie 64 Pan Rd. Soi Naradiwas 22 6/9, Soi Prom Sri 1, 02 637 8558 | Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm, 061 941 6555 | Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Sat-Sun, 9am-7pm Sat-Sun, 10am-10pm 083 656 6141 | Tue-Thu, 11am-9pm, www.lukabangkok.com www.tentaclesgallery.com Fri-Sun, 11am-11pm www.brekkiebangkok.com Rocket Coffeebar Too Fast To Sleep 149, Sathorn Soi 12 762 Rama IV Rd. Baker Gonna Bake 02 635 0404 | 7am-9pm 086 300 9955 | daily 24 hours GF, K Village www.rocketcoffeebar.com facebook.com/toofasttosleep Sukhumvit Soi 26 Other Rocket Coffeebar outlets: 092 651 6463 | 8am-10pm Central Embassy facebook.com/Bakergonnabakecafe 1031 Ploenchit Rd. LOWER SUKHUMVIT 02 635 0404 | 7am-8pm Café Claire 21/13, Sukhumvit Soi 49 39 Espresso Oriental Residence 02 662 6638 | 7am-11pm 665, Sukhumvit Soi 39 110 Wireless Rd. 72, Sukhumvit Soi 55 086 393 6762 | 7am-5pm 02 125 9000 | 6am-10:30pm 02 392 7635 | 7am-10pm facebook.com/39espresso www.oriental-residence.com/cafeclaire CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood

Cafe Little Spoon Karmakamet Diner Other Paul outlets: 165/5-6, Sukhumvit 21 30/1 Soi Metheenivet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) The Emporium 087 983 9001 | Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm 02 262 0700 | 10am-11:30pm 622 Sukhumvit Rd. facebook.com/cafelittlespoon facebook.com/karmakamet 10am-10pm Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. Ceresia Coffee Roasters Kiosk Cafe 10am-10pm 593/29-41, Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 The Barkyard Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd. 086 843 8235 | Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 9am-5pm facebook: Ceresia Coffee Roasters 02 259 4089 | Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Other Ceresia outlets: Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm Radi Grab & Go Tisco Tower, 48/2 Sathorn Rd. www.kiosk-cafe.com Mahatun Plaza 098 251 4327 | 8am-6pm Other Kiosk Cafe outlets: 888/18 Phloenchit Rd. 3F, Siam Square One, 338 Rama Rd. 02 264 6542 | 7am-6pm Chu 02 115 1375 | 10am-9pm facebook.com/radicatering 2F, Exchange Tower 388 Sukhumvit Rd. Kuppa Serendib Tea Room 02 663 4554 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, 39, Sukhumvit Soi 16 120/24, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Sat-Sun, 8am-9pm 02 663 0450 | Mon-Fri, 8:30am-6:30pm 02 115 2144 | 11am-7pm www.facebook.com/CHU.BKK www.kuppa.co.th facebook.com/serendibtearoom Other Chu outlets: Trinity Complex, 150 Pipat Rd. Kuppadeli Sora City 02 636 8685 | Tue-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, 219/1A, Sukhumvit 21 61/52, Soi Sukhumvit 26 Sat-Sun, 8am-9pm 02 664 2350 | 7am-9 pm 02 001 6600 | Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm www.kuppadeli.com Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm CoffeeWorks Other Kuppadeli outlets: www.soracity.bike 100/68, Sukhumvit Soi 26 4F, The Emporium 02 425 1395 | Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm 662 Sukhumvit Rd. Tinpresso www.coffeeworks.co.th 02 664 9959 | 10am-10pm 341/1, Wachiratham Sathit 21, LG, Floor, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd. Sukhumvit Soi 101/1 Doi Chaang Coffee 02 250 7705 | 8am-10pm 08 1636 9531 | 9:30am-6pm 5/1-3, Sukhumvit Soi 12 4F, Centerpoint of Siam Square, 292 Rama I facebook.com/tinpresso 02 653 4311 | 8am-7pm Rd. 02 018 9655 | 8am-9pm www.doichaangcoffee.com 2F, The Residence On Thonglor, Sukhumvit 55 Toby’s 02 185 1555 | 6am-11pm 68/1, Sukhumvit Soi 38 Fauchon 02 712 1774 | Tue-Sun, 9am-6pm GF EmQuartier La Baguette French Bakery facebook.com/tobysk38 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. GF, EmQuartier 02 003 6033 | 10am-10pm 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. Wonderwall The Kaffebar www.fauchon.co.th 02 003 6420 | 10am-10pm Avora 31 Residence, 28, Sukhumvit Soi 31 www.labaguettepattaya.com 02 108 7575 | Mon-Sun, 7:30am-7pm Hello Strangers facebook.com/wkaffebar 61/45, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Li-Bra-Ry Cafe Other Wonderwall outlets: 090 994 8760 | Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm, 2 Soi Metheenivet, Sukhumvit Soi 24 A Square, 120, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Sat-Sun, 10am-8pm 02 259 2878 | 10am-9pm 099 424 6592 | Mon-Sun, 7:30am-7pm facebook.com/hellostrangerscafe facebook.com/librarycafe

Holey Artisan Bakery Pacamara THONG LO-EKKAMAI 245/2, Sukhumvit Soi 31 2F, Rain Hill Community Mall 091 720 1074 | Tue-Sun, 7am-5pm 841/11 Sukhumvit Soi 47 Beeston Cafe facebook.com/holeybreadbkk 02 261 7830 | 10am-9:30pm 1/3-4, Ekkamai Soi 2, Sukhumvit Soi 63 facebook.com/pacamaracoffee 097 037 2398 | 10am-10pm Jaiyen Cafe facebook.com/beestoncafe 27/1, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Parden 081 753 3324 | 10am-8:30pm 2F, The Manor, 32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Big Knit Cafe facebook.com/jaiyencafe 02 204 2205 | Tue-Sun, 11am-5:45pm The Natural Park Bldg, 88, Sukhumvit Soi 49 facebook.com/Parden.Bangkok 02 260 5050 | 9am-9pm Jones the Grocer www.bigknit49.com EmQuartier Paul 637 Sukhumvit Rd. Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. Cafe d’La Fleur 02 261 0382 | 10am-11pm 02 001 5160 | 8:30am-10pm Fifty Fifth Plaza, Soi Thong Lo 2 facebook.com/jonesthegrocerthailand facebook.com/paul1889.thailand 081 495 1783 | 9am-9pm

32 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com by neighbourhood | CAFÉ LISTINGS

D’Ark Other Hands and Heart outlets: Nikko Cafe Piman 49, 48/1, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Siam Square Soi 8 30/18 Soi Charoen Chai, Ekkamai Soi 12 02 662 7900 | 8am-10pm 081 442 7977 | 10am-8 pm 02 381 5291 | 10am-11:50pm www.darkoffee.com www.nikkocafe.com Other D’Ark outlets: Ink & Lion Café EmQuartier, 651 Sukhumvit Rd. 1/7, Soi Ekkamai 2 One Ounce For Onion 02 269 1000 | Sun-Thu, 10am-10pm, Sukhumvit 63 19/12, Ekkamai Soi 12 Fri-Sat, 10am-11pm 02 002 6874 | Mon-Tue, 9 am-6 pm, 02 046 6885 | Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-6 pm Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm Elmar Offwhite Café facebook.com/inkandlioncafe facebook.com/oneounceforonion 50/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 099 194 6169 | 11am-10pm Kaizen Coffee Co. Peace Oriental Teahouse facebook.com/elmarcoffee Tai Ping Tower 70/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 582/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 097 267 2626 | Sun-Thu, 10am-8:30pm, Ekkamai Macchiato 098 831 6009 | 7am-7pm Fri-Sat, 10am-11pm 6/2, Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 facebook.com/kaizencoffeeco www.peaceteahouse.com 083 785 9090 | Mon, Wed-Fri, 8am-7pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm Mocking Tales Petite Cafe x facebook.com/ekkamaimac The Maze Liberty Area One 148, Thong Lo Soi 4 2F, Ekamai Mall Fill In The Blank Sukhumvit Rd. 3, Ekkamai Soi 10 28/10, Sukhumvit Soi 61 083 386 6992 | 11am-1am 090 972 8017 | Tue-Sun, 11am-10pm 094 556 2920 | 10am-8pm facebook.com/mockingtales facebook.com/BKKPetite facebook.com/fillintheblank.decor Munch Phil Coffee Company Hands and Heart GF, Mugendai Honten 21, Sukhumvit Soi 61 Ascella Condominium, 33, Sukhumvit Soi 38 Thong Lo 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 001 5850 | Tue-Sat, 9am-6pm, 081 442 7977 | 7am-9pm 02 381 4711 | 10am-10pm Sun, 10am-5:30pm facebook.com/handsandheartcoffee facebook.com/munchbkk www.philscoffeecompany.com CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood

Roast April Store Kay’s Boutique Breakfast The Commons, 335, Thong Lo Soi 17 U Center, Chula Soi 42 (MRT Sam Yan) 116/55-57 Soi Ruamchit, Rangnam Rd. 02 185 2865 | Mon-Thu, 10am-11pm, 097 979 6495 | Mon-Fri, 7:45am-7pm, 02 245 1953 | Mon, 6:30am-12pm, Fri-Sun, 9am-11pm Sat-Sun, 8:45am-6pm Tue-Sun, 6:30am-4pm www.roastbkk.com facebook.com/aprilstorebangkok www.kaysbangkok.co Other Roast Café outlets: 1F, The Helix Quartier, EmQuartier Cafe At Ease Once Cafe 094 176 3870 | 10am-10pm 38/1, Soi Kasemson 2 Siam Square Soi 2 087 799 0781 | 8:30am-6:30pm 084 777 7322 | 12pm-9pm Tealily Cafe facebook.com/cafeateasebangkok www.oncecafe.com Sukhumvit Soi 39, Soi Prommit 02 019 8287 | Thu-Tue, 9:30am-6:30pm Café de Norasingha Quest Connaisseur Café facebook.com/tealilycafe Phaya Thai Palace 130/32 Phaya Thai Rd. 315 Ratchawithi Rd. 02 612 1442 | 6am-10pm Tiny Cup Cafe 02 354 8376 | 8am-7pm facebook.com/questcafebkk 457-457/6, Sukhumvit Soi 55 www.phyathaipalace.org 02 712 5112 | 7am-7pm Simply W facebook.com/TinyCupBKK Café Now 2F, Central World Creative Lab, 3F Siam Discovery 999/9 Rama I Rd. Thinkin’ Outside The Fox 063 613 8563 | 10am-10pm 02 646 1523 | 10am-10pm 461/3, Soi Thong Lo 14, Sukhumvit Soi 55 facebook.com/cafenowbypropaganda www.simplywcafe.com 02 390 2847 | Tue-Sun, 12pm-8pm facebook.com/ThinkinOutsideTheFox Chibi Chibi-Cafe & Atelier Think Cafe 112/4, Soi Sri Ayutthaya 2, Rangnam Rd. 1F, Siam Center, 979 Rama I Rd. The Coffee Club 088 399 9699 | Mon, Wed-Fri, 10am-8pm, 02 658 1557 | 10am-10pm 1239 Sukhumvit Rd. Sat-Sun, 9am-9pm facebook.com/thinkcafesiamcenter 02 381 2736 | 7am-11pm facebook.com/chibichibicafe facebook.com/thecoffeeclubthailand Other Chibi Chibi outlets: Other The Coffee Club outlets: 339 Oasis Building, Silom Soi 3, Silom Rd. AFTERNOON HIGH TEA Soi Convent, Silom Rd. 088 399 9699 | 7:30am-4:30pm 098 250 9047 | 7am-11pm 1823 Tea Lounge by The Hive, Piman Sukhumvit Soi 49 Di Cafe by Monomer Ronnefeldt 098 250 9042 | Sun-Thu, 6:30am-10pm, 486/151, Soi Phetchaburi16 GF, Gaysorn Plaza Fri-Sat, 6:30am-11:30pm 099 261 2261 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. The Maze, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Sat-Sun, 8:30am-8pm 02 656 1086 | 12pm-6pm 098 250 9051 | Sun-Thu, 6:30am-10:30pm, facebook.com/DiCafeByMonomer facebook.com/1823tealoungebyronnefeldtbkk Fri-Sat, 6:30am-11:30pm Factory Cafe & Brew Bar Authors’ Lounge Vanilla Garden 35/18 Phayathai Rd. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue 53, Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 085 145 4184 | Mon-Sat, 9am-7:30pm, 02 659 9000 | 12pm-6pm 02 381 6120 | 11am-11pm Sun, 10am-4pm www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok www.vanillaindustry.com facebook.com/factoryespressobar Erawan Tea Room Warm Wood Café Gallery Drip Coffee Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajadamri Rd. 137/1, Thong Lo Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 1F, Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) 02 254 1234 | 2:30pm-6pm 02 714 9974 | Tue-Sun, 9am-1am 939 Rama I Rd. bangkok.grand.hyatt.com facebook.com/warmwoodcafe 081 917 2131 | Tues-Sun, 11am-9pm facebook.com/GalleryDripCoffee Man Fu Yuan WWA Cafe x Chooseless 8F, EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 77 Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21 High Thyme 02 003 6240 | 2pm-5pm 02 660 4349 | Wed-Fri, 12pm-9pm, 3F, I’m Park Chula facebook.com/manfuyuanbkk Sat-Sun, 10:30am-9pm 353, Chula Soi 5 facebook.com/wwa.bangkok 02 214 4221 | Mon-Fri, 11am-12am, Sapphire Bar Sat-Sun, 10am-12am The Sukosol Bangkok, 477 Si Ayuthaya Rd. facebook.com/HighThyme 02 247 0123 | 2pm-5pm SIAM-PHAYATHAI www.thesukosol.com I+D Style Cafe X Brave Another Hound Roasters 1F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd. 3F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd. For a more complete listing of 02 129 4409 | 10am-11pm 080 046 6885 | 10am-10pm Bangkok’s best cafés, visit: www.anotherhoundcafe.com facebook.com/braveroasters www.bangkok101.com

34 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Mural painting, with a European on horseback, from Wat Khongkharam, Ratchaburi

Japanese ceramic bowl depicting European traders

36 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com insight | SNAPSHOTS On Farangs and Foreigners s author Rudyard Kipling Over 500 years ago the book Anna and the King of Siam wrote in his poem The Ballad Portuguese were the first farangs (sourcebook for the musical The of East and West: “Oh, East who arrived on the Siamese shores. King and I), King Rama V got to know Ais East and West is West, and never They mainly came here to trade and Europe and its royalty in person on his the twain shall meet.” Unfortunately, to propagate Christianity. Hence the royal visits. He established relations Mr. Kipling didn’t get to live in the evidences of Portuguese churches, and exchanged envoys between Siam globalized world where people in the dating back to the Ayutthaya Period, and various European countries, digital age meet and mingle as the are found along the waterways. They especially with the Emperors of twain connect and crisscross in all were also the first to be granted a Russia and Germany. He brought directions. But how did East first meet piece of land on the Chao Phraya not only Western ideas to Siam but West in Thailand, and what have been River’s bank to build an embassy in also specialists in various branches the outcomes from these encounters? Bangkok. The Portuguese legacy not of knowledge, such as lawyers, Thais have always been fascinated only appears in diplomatic ties and diplomats, economists, engineers, by foreigners and all exotic things— religious proliferations, but also in architects, artists, and craftsmen. whether they come from near or linguistic and culinary influences. Without these European architects far. The word “wilas” was used to As Ayutthaya was a cosmopolitan and artists, many of the beautiful describe all things European before city in its heyday, the Dutch, Danes, buildings, palaces, and villas around the word “farang” came about. Both French, and British also came to Thailand would not exist. Thanks to words refer to foreign people and trade and established diplomatic artists likeCorrado Ferroci, a sculptor things from the West. Farang either connections with Siam. Among these, from Florence, who taught at the Fine originated from firangi in Hindi, the most celebrated events would be Arts Department of the Ministry of or farangi in Persian, meaning the the exchange of diplomatic missions Palace Affairs in 1923, we have Thai “Franks”, or Europeans. The term also between Siam and France during the modern art. He was thus considered spread into China as folangji, referring reigns of King Narai and King Louis XIV its “father” and received a Thai name, to the Portuguese and their breech- in the 1680s. Alexandre, Chevalier Silpa Bhirasri. loading swivel guns. To most Thais de Chaumont, was the first French Nowadays farangs come to the word farang is not derogatory or ambassador who arrived at the King Thailand in droves. Some think that offensive, and is only a descriptive Narai’s palace in Lopburi in 1685, while Thais have prejudices against them or term that can be used for anything Kosa Pan or Chao Phraya Kosathibodi preconceived notions, such as farangs Western—from Caucasian persons, to was enthusiastically received at are always likely to be rich. But I think European food, art, and architecture. the Versailles in 1686. However, de the prejudices on both sides are due Chaumont tried to convert the King to to cultural and social differences and Catholicism without success. misunderstandings. Many farangs are Through the 19th century, Siam married to Thais, but have yet to learn was much coveted by European fully about their spouse’s culture and colonial powers. How a little country language. Fluency in Thai language like Siam survived and remained may be hard to achieve but many independent from the colonialism is outsiders have mastered it, including Tom’s unique. Despite the treaties made Frère Hilaire, who taught at the Two Satang with Siam, both England and France Assumption College and wrote Thai pursued imperialist policies and textbooks and poems. encroached upon the territories. As a Although Thais take pride in our buffer between these empires, Siam culture, we have a strange trait when had to relinquish parts of Burma, Laos, we adapt foreign influences. We tend Cambodia, Vietnam, and Malaysia to keep certain bits that we like and to these two powers to protect discard the rest, whether it is the core its sovereignty. With the policy of value or just the superficial part. So maintaining national independence, nowadays we warmly adapt many our enlightened monarchs, King farang things, such as working in multi- Join Bangkok-born but internationally Monkut (Rama IV) and his successor national companies, using English bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), applied words sporadically, enjoying Western- gives his own unique take on Thailand both diplomatic negotiation and style clothing, food, and music, and and its capital. Each month he tackles a modernization along Western lines. even celebrating Christmas—all different aspect of the local culture–from Having studied with Anna without being farang. Cultures may art and festivals to 21st-century trends– Leonowens, the royal governess who clash, but when they become lifestyles in a lighthearted yet learned manner. made Siam famous in the fictionalized they merge. bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 37 SNAPSHOTS | highlight

A Night in the Lives of the Corpse Collectors In this excerpt from his book Bizarre Thailand, author Jim Algie spends a frenzied night on the blood-slicked streets of Bangkok, rounding up the bodies of the city’s most unfortunate souls.

oh Teck Tung pulls in millions to follow them around one night, when he travelled around with Poh of baht in donations every year. their van crashed and Poh Teck Tung Teck Tung for a few weeks. The book Donating to the organisation had to come to their rescue, the is a horror-monger’s gallery of bodies Pis good karma, says the videographer, videographer says with a smug grin. lying in the street, surrounded by who asked not to be named as we It’s an apt warning for the kind of chalk-line skeletons and rivulets of weave through Friday night traffic, driving these speed demons do. When blood, and close-ups of pulped faces. because they help to rush the injured saving a life is a matter of minutes, The cover shows a bloody hand to the hospital and take the dead to speed is of the essence. hanging from the bonnet of a car, the morgue. They also arrange coffins A call comes in on the radio, he making it look as if the person has been and funerals for the poor. If nobody guns the gas and we’re off, bulleting eaten alive by what Philip refers to in claims the body, they bury the remains down the road like a getaway car. The the text as a ‘petrol-powered beast’. at their cemetery in Samut Prakan speedometer needle, glowing green, In reference to this image, the province. Every few years, dozens of creeps up... 40, 55, 80, 100. He’s too Australian photographer— who went volunteers help to unearth and burn busy passing cars to talk now. And we on to win the World Press Photo Award the bones of thousands of corpses in a have no idea what the emergency is. and many others—told me, “An old mass cremation ceremony. Snapshot memories whizz by woman was crossing the highway The foundation’s rescue work on like the cars and lights. In 1997, I outside Bangkok when she was cut in the blood-slicked streets of Bangkok interviewed the photographer Philip half by a car, which was abandoned has been documented by National Blenkinsop about his grisly collection by the side of the road after the driver Geographic TV, the BBC and CNN. of black-and-white photos, The Cars fled the scene. Her hand was left on the When the latter network attempted That Ate Bangkok. Many were taken bonnet. It was unbelievably depressing.”

38 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com highlight | SNAPSHOTS

His experiences with them had driven home the fact—and the fear—that road accidents are the leading cause of death in Thailand: an average of two people die on the roads every hour. It has one of the highest rates of traffic fatalities in the world. More tourists and expats die or are injured in road accidents than by any other means. “It was crazy, driving at 160 kilometres an hour on a Friday night, trying to beat other body-snatchers to the cadaver. Thais won’t get out of the way for an ambulance, but they will for Poh Teck Tung, so we’d often get like a crescent wrench, nobody’s about most jobs is that you can go to the accident before the police. One sure. For once, there’s none of that home and forget about them. He smiles night I was in the back of the van with Thai cheeriness. The mood is somber, sadly and says that’s not the case with three dead bodies rolling up against voices drowned out by the drone and his work. me every time it turned. We’d picked din of traffic. Speculation runs rife “We’ve saved a lot of people but up one of them from a hospital and that it might be a drug- related killing, the cases that haunt you are all the he’d already been dead for a few days. or possibly a mugging—common on dead souls. One night we got called to The stench was terrible,” he said. footbridges— gone violently wrong. the scene of a school bus crash a few Near a footbridge on a busy road The dead man, in his faded T-shirt and hours outside Bangkok... absolutely out in some industrial suburb of rubber flip-flops, may have lost his life horrific. Body parts were scattered Bangkok, we pull over behind a fleet for a few hundred baht? everywhere and these kids were only of Poh Teck Tung rescue vehicles. A few members of Poh Teck nine or ten. Staff members are running towards Tung kneel down beside the corpse, “When I was walking around the the bridge, jogging up the stairs. A pointing at the fatal wound, while a bus, this little girl who I thought was policemen stringing yellow crime- crime photographer from the police dead stood up and came staggering scene tape across the top of the stairs propaganda magazine, 191 (the towards me. For a few seconds I lets us pass. Then we see the body: emergency line in Thailand), takes thought I was actually seeing a ghost. young, male, Thai, laying on his back. some blood money snaps. A few of the But she only took about six or seven The glare of orange street lights lends cops standing by look lost in troubled steps before blood began pouring out the scene a hellish tint. thoughts, as if thinking, Who’s going of her mouth and down the front of her Whether he was shot in the to have to tell his family? school uniform. Then she fell straight forehead or hit with something heavy That first murder scene of the on her face. By the time I checked her night is still tattooed in my memory. pulse, she was already dead.” The young man lying there on his back. Headlights flicker across the the wound on his forehead. The cheap videographer’s face. A face rutted flip-flops. The hellfire orange of the and potholed. A face that’s seen too Bizarre street lights above the footbridge. many murders, catastrophes and the Who was he? Who murdered him? drinking binges that provide some Thailand Will there even be an investigation short-term amnesia. He looks a into his death? Will any relatives decade older than his 50 claim his body? years. “That accident The staff and happened almost volunteers of Poh a decade ago, Teck Tung live with but it still gives these agonising me nightmares questions every sometimes. It’s still night. I tell the so fresh in my mind videographer that that it could have Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences the best thing happened tonight.” living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) This tale and many others come from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). tourist attractions. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 39 SNAPSHOTS | highlight

The former Customs House Old Customs Die Hard Neo-Classical princess languishes by the river, awaiting the kiss of life

By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

or local photographers, it’s a Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) a church-like tower, stained-glass semi-secret spot for fashion ordered the construction of the facility windows, and a gothic altar where shoots and album covers. For in order to cope with administration armoured knights flank the principal Freal estate developers, it’s the dream tasks pursuant to the signing of Buddha image. project of a lifetime. And for the the Bowring Treaty of 1855, which In classic Neo-Palladian style, Bangkok Metropolitan Authority, it’s liberalized trade with the United the façade of Customs House’s an eyesore which barely escapes being Kingdom and captured the attention of main building is richly decorated condemned and barricaded. other European trading interests. with columns, and both bay and The former Customs House, a set Joachim Grassi (1837-1904), arch windows topped by delicately of three grand Neo-Palladian buildings probably the first Italian architect to carved teak fanlights. The bulk of the facing the Chao Phraya River at the work for the Siamese crown, designed building consists of three stories, with end of Charoen Krung Soi 36, was the edifice, and today it’s considered soaring three-meter-high ceilings and built in 1888 to collect import and one his finest achievements. A few a flat parapet roof. The center wing export duties on all goods coming in years earlier, Grassi designed what of the building adds a fourth story or out of Siam by ship. The Siamese was then the largest building in with a Greek-inspired hipped roof, in Treasury chose the location because it Bangkok, the imposing Royal Army the gable of which is placed a giant was next to the French embassy (now Barracks, opposite the Grand Palace. metal clock embellished with the the French ambassador’s residence), He was also responsible for the royal insignia of Rama V. At the apex and very close to the Oriental Hotel 1877 construction ofWat Niwet of the hipped roof sits a rectangular as well as Diethelm, Grimm, Louis T. Thammaprawat, an unusual Buddhist block topped by two lion sculptures, Leonowens, and other major trading temple in Bang Pa-In designed in symbolizing power and royalty. The company offices of the day. European gothic style, complete with lions are standing on one hind leg, and

40 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com highlight | SNAPSHOTS

Spooky staircase In the Mood for Love using their two forepaws and other hind leg to support a pair of chatra, the three-tiered ceremonial umbrellas often seen in Thai temples and palaces. Among the interior highlights are a grand central teak staircase and an intense yellow and red linoleum floor, featuring a striking solar symbol in the center. Many of the rooms bear teak-plank floors and teak ceilings. Aside from the many rooms dedicated to tax activities, a large hall on the left wing of the third floor was created as a ballroom for visiting ships Riverfront location officers and foreign emissaries. When Rama V returned from his first visit In 1949, after a larger, more Love. The film was set in 1962 Hong to Europe in 1897, his ship docked in modern port opened in Khlong Toey, Kong, and as the director said in an front of the Customs House, and an the customs office was moved to the interview, “To make period films in elaborate reception was held in the new port. The buildings stood vacant Hong Kong is almost impossible. You ballroom and in the main foyer on the until 1959, when they were turned over need to go to places in Southeast Asia ground floor. to the Bang Rak Fire Brigade for use as like Bangkok or parts of Malaysia, a residence for their employees. Over because in these cities you still find old time, the fire brigade employees and buildings which belonged to Chinese their families were joined by families communities in earlier days.” The of the Bang Rak Marine Police, and the Customs House also crops up in scenes Treasury Department, who are allowed from The Killing Fields (1984), standing to live here rent-free. in for old Phnom Penh. Joe’s Sadly the Thai government What the future holds for the old Bangkok performs virtually no maintenance Customs House is difficult to ascertain. on the three buildings, and today A decade ago plans were afoot to the grande dame presents a renovate the buildings as a super- conglomeration of peeling ochre paint deluxe Aman resort. Natural Park and failing plaster that has fallen away Public Company signed a contract with in many places to expose brick to the the Treasury Department to develop elements. Banyan trees and other and manage the hotel for 30 years. vegetation have invaded the roof, Money changed hands, disputes arose, especially in the eastern corner of and the project has been postponed. the central building, and are steadily My general impression is Award-winning writer Joe Cummings destabilizing the walls. Blue-streaked conservation needs to begin very was born in New Orleans but became doors and windows, often framing soon, before collapse sets in. In the one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook laundry flapping in the river breeze, meantime, it’s surprisingly open to the authors, creating the seminal Lonely add to the faded charm. public—in neighborhood eyes, it’s little Planet Thailand guide, as well as several Hong Kong director Wong Kar more than a slum. Do be very careful other titles and updates for the region. Wai used the Customs House as a if you decide to have a look inside, as Each month, he picks out his favourite backdrop for several scenes in his the flooring can be fragile, even absent cultural gems throughout Bangkok. highly regarded filmIn the Mood for in places. bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 41 SNAPSHOTS | very thai Energy Drinks Caffeine tonics fuel the nation

he West drinks Red Bull to play harder; the Thais drink it to work harder. This Thai Ttonic gained fame as a vodka mixer and party-prolonging upper for nightclubbers, garnering 65-90percent of the market in 83 countries. Yet the caffeine-rich beverage began as a labour-prolonging booster for the Thai working man. Energy tonics still fuel modern Thailand, the drink equivalent of diesel. Bottles of its local recipeKrating Daeng (which translates as “red bull”) may be seen just about everywhere. Active ingredients like caffeine, taurine and sugar help truckers deliver, pick-me-up. Yaa dong (herbal whisky) Austrian accent, like an extract of students revise, vendors pedal, drivers rouses some, yaa baa (‘crazy drug’, Schwarzenegger. stave off fatigue, and factory workers a methamphetamine) speeds others But at home, Krating Daeng reach production targets. illegally. Caffeine’s socially acceptable, eventually lost market leadership to They need the energy. Observers though coffee tastes unpleasant to M100 and M150, while staying ahead marvel how Thais can doze off many Thais. Thus pocket-size bottled of Chalarm (shark) and Lipo. Rival instantly, in the most awkward tonics keep Thailand awake. brands also push macho values, with positions. It’s not unusual to catch One of few Thai products to have M150 for years being promoted by guards nodding off while on duty, shop gone “inter” (slang for international), boxers. ‘Red animal’ symbols have staff dozing forehead-on-counter, or Krating Daeng started out as a local proved popular among energy drinks workers kipping atop lumpy cargo emulation of the Japanese energy with regional markets, like Mah on a speeding truck. This seeming drink Lipovitan D. Exported to Thailand Daeng (Red Horse), Singha Daeng narcolepsy isn’t just down to the for Japanese salarymen who were (Red Lion) and Chang Daeng (Red heat, nor does drowsiness always running local factories, ‘Lipo’ also Elephant). In 2002, Songs For Life star mean laziness. Far from it. Norn len appealed to Thai workers. So in 1981, Ad Carabao drew on his legions of (‘play sleep’, or napping) stems as the late Chaleo Yoovidhaya cooked up rock fans to snatch a huge chunk of much from overwork and blood sugar a sweeter, stronger version branded the growing sector within just a year collapse as from sanuk or sabai. with a bull icon meaningful to farm- with yet another ‘red animal’ brand For many low-paid Thais, work raised urbanites. incorporating his own name,Carabao means long hours, lack of power and Austrian Dietrich Mateschitz Daeng (Red Buffalo). often a second job. An extra burden noticed the marketing potential. The With energy drink makers now borne by migrant workers is the two men became equal partners in diversifying into vitamin health drinks expectation to subsidize the extended 1984, making Chaleo’s syrup fizzy and and ‘enriched beverages’ to get round family, which may account for half of a less sweet to suit European tastes. It the caffeine restrictions, ever more farm’s income. Even in free time, many became the 21st century answer to virtuous one-upmanship seemed Thais end up assisting relatives and cola, and a case study at marketing inevitable. In the next fad for enriched friends without complaint. Meanwhile colleges. Red Bull made Chaleo one of beverages, Thais began swilling sugary, in daily life, Thai people must remain the few Thais on the Forbes billionaire turbocharged, caffeinated industrial vigilant about status in all interactions. list, but to Westerners it seems not versions of the most healthful, calming, Such unrelenting stress requires a Thai, but a global brand with a burly genteel drink imaginable: green tea.

> Very Thai Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book River Books that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. by Philip Cornwel-Smith Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it with photos by John Goss guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly and Philip Cornwel-Smith Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the B995 sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.

42 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Suankularb Wittayalai School The oldest secondary education institution in Thailand

By Luc Citrinot

or tourists, the area surrounding the school was founded by King built in Palladian style with a majestic Bangkok’s Memorial Bridge Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1882, portico. However when examining offers much. The bridge itself the craze in Bangkok was all about the façade along the road, there are Fwas the city’s first iron bridge (built by European architecture, particularly many details to be discovered, such as the same British company that erected from Italy. The current building was windows hidden behind loggias, gables the Sydney Harbour Bridge), and in the designed and erected in 1910 by the on the corner, and large baroque style same vicinity sits the Bangkok Flower Siam Public Works Department, which windows. Market, with its incredible pageant was headed at the time by Italians. The Visitors should not be intimidated of colours and skilled florists shaping school itself is the oldest secondary by the large main gate, but instead garlands and assembling elaborate education institution in Thailand, and should stroll inside and around the floral decorations. But there’s another the school compound used to be part courtyard. Especially as security notable landmark nearby, squished of Wat Ratchaburana, which now guards are rather relaxed and even between the market and the bridge, stands across Tri Phet Road. invite visitors to take a look. The that tourists quite wrongly neglect This graceful structure bears loggias and arcades stretch over 200 to investigate—theSuankularb many architectural surprises. From metres, which explains the building’s Wittayalai School. the front road, the building looks Thai nickname of Tuek Yao (“long This yellow painted, neo-classical very classical—a bit severe on first building”). There is also a slight curve building bears reminders of Italy, glance—with its well ordered façade to the building, offering wonderful and this is no coincidence. When stretching around the main gate, perspectives, and a great background

44 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com heritage | SNAPSHOTS for photos—especially with its regular succession of arches. Overall it evokes Renaissance palaces in Northern Italy with their arcade inner-courtyards. The school was bombed during World War II, as it stood next to strategic military targets such as Memorial Bridge and a power station, but was rebuilt in the years following the war, as close to the original design as possible. However, that was not the case for the green building that once stood next to Suankularb Wittayalai. Originally called the Poh Chang School, the building served as an educational institution for traditional arts under Rama VI. It was constructed in 1913, but wartime bombing erased all traces of this equally architecturally interesting property. It was rebuilt in the late 1940s and early 1950s following the principles of Khana Ratsadon (“People’s Party”) of former Prime Minister Field Marshall Phibul Songkhram. Largely inspired in the 1930s by nationalist or fascist architecture from Europe, the new school building is a “light” version of the former Supreme Court, and/or the Grand Central Post Office. It is less

massive in its shape, and carries along the Kingdom, as many of its students its façades allegoric figures of Thai arts. have gone on to be involved in The six columns of its main hall even politics. It probably has the highest finish in the shape of a lotus flower. number of students who went on to Historic The six columns are an ubiquitous become Prime Ministers, with such character of any official building built prestigious personalities asPridi Bangkok during the reign of Phibul Songkhram, Bhanomyong, Maj. Gen. MR Kukrit as they represent the People’s Party Pramoj, and Gen. Prem Tinsulanonda. principles. Each column, respectively, The school has also produced a high symbolizes freedom, peace, equality, number of Supreme Commanders and economy, education, and unity. Today Commanders-in-Chief of the Royal part of Rajamangala University of Thai Army, as well as many prominent Technology, the structure is a last businessmen. remnant of the tumultuous years of Meanwhile, for those who are nationalism in Thailand, and stands simply wondering about the meaning in sharp contrast to the neo-classical of the school’s name, suankularb Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in style of its neighbour. means “rose garden”, but not in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first Considered as the most reference to its blossoming famous in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in prestigious institution for secondary alumni, but to the fact that the school Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes education in Thailand, Suankularb was first opened near toSuankularn about tourism, culture, and architecture. Wittayalai School can also be visited Palace, in the vicinity of Vinmanmek He was instrumental on a recent by the public and it has a (free) small Mansion. EU-endorsed project to establish the museum dedicated to Thai education. European Heritage Map of Bangkok and However, opening hours are rather subsequent app covering all of Thailand. unpredictable, as it is still a boy’s Luc still travels extensively in Southeast school and has some 3,500 students Suankularb Wittayalai School Asia, looking particularly for new enrolled. 88 Tri Phet Rd. architectural gems related to colonial Since its opening, it has played an Open daily, until 4pm and European history. important role in the development of Tel: 02 221 6701 bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 45 TRAVEL |

46 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com | TRAVEL R O A M Pa Sak Boat Racing Festival Traditional Long Boat Racing in Sao Hai

ne of Thailand’s oldest annual festivals, the TRADITIONAL LONG BOAT RACE on the PA SAK RIVER in SARABURI, is also one of the most exciting for fans of riverboat racing. The two-day event takes Oplace in front of the Sao Hai district offices pier, and spectators can enjoy the thrilling high-speed rowing between the participants who represent the many river communities throughout Thailand. The race is divided into many categories, including the 55 paddler long boats, the 30 paddler small boats, and the 12 paddler mini-boats. One of the highlights of this festive occasion is the boisterous cheering from both the commentators and the crowd assembled along the riverbank.

The 2016 Pa Sak Boat Racing Festival runs from Saturday, SEPTEMBER 24th to Sunday, SEPTEMBER 25th.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 47 TRAVEL | upcountry now

TRANG ROAST PORK FESTIVAL September 4 Pack your bags, and your appetite, if you’re heading down to Trang this month as the southern province’s annual Roast Pork Festival is back, promising plate after plate of crispy-skinned meaty mouthfuls. This yearly event is renowned nation-wide and the many of the delicious special recipes have been passed down from generation to generation. Besides mounds of pork to “pig-out” on, the festival also offers locals a platform for sharing their preparation techniques. You may even walk away with a little home-cooking knowledge under your belt, but one thing’s for sure—you won’t walk away hungry!

RIVER KWAI HALF MARATHON September 11 This annual long-distance marathon, established by a group of foreign running enthusiasts back in 1982, returns to Kanchanaburi for its 35th anniversary. The River Kwai International Half Marathon 2016 offers participants three distances to run—35 k, 21.1 k, and 10.5 k—and the race kicks off at theRiver Kwai Village Hotel starting at 5:30am. Runners will be impressed by the beautiful scenery along the way, and challenged by the intricacies of the course. Finishers receive commemorative medals and category winners get trophies. For information and registration visit:www.gotorace.com .

SALAK YOM CEREMONY September 15-16 During the 12th lunar month, according to the Thai Buddhist calendar, the annual Salak Yom Ceremony is held at Wat Prathat Haripunchai, in Lamphun. This ancient merit making ceremony was originally intended for women who were about to enter marrying age. A salak yom is a tall bamboo construction decorated with colourful paper made by local handicraft artists. Everyday things such as cash, food, jewellery and household items are attached to the salak yom, which are later offered to the monks. The ceremony also includes local food stalls, Lanna musical performances, a parade, and a tree decorating contest.

MID-AUTUMN (MOON) FESTIVAL September 16 During the eighth lunar month, Thai-Chinese families gather for the Mid-Autumn Festival to give thanks, honour their ancestors, and share gifts ofMooncakes , the revered round sweets that symbolically represent the sacrifices once made to Chang E, the moon goddess of immortality, during the harvest season. Nowadays it’s a time for families to convene, pay respects to the departed, and enjoy mooncakes made with lotus, red bean, sesame, salted egg, and durian—flavours as varied as the people enjoying them.

48 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com upcountry now | TRAVEL

FUZZER PARTY 2016 September 17 This month the province of Rayong will be on fire as its first ever ultimate EDM festival—Fuzzer Party 2016— takes place at the large outdoor area known Pleon Jai 5 (close to Rayong Bus Terminal 2). Dance the night away with well-known EDM celebrities such as DJ Soda from South Korea; known for her beauty, sexy moves, and her remarkable skills in mixing techniques. The lineup also features Thailand’s first EDM band Boom Boom Cash, and big names like Machina, Make You Freak, and KCBZ (Ketchupboyz). Tickets are B1,000 and can be purchased online at: www.facebook.com/fuzzerparty.

THAILAND GRAVITY SERIES 2016 September 17-18 Following the huge success of its first two incarnations, the 3rd annual Thailand Gravity Series once again promises downhill mountain bike racing at its highest level. The 1st race of the Thailand Gravity Series 2016 will be held in Suphanburi province (near Ayutthaya). This year the race offers 13 bike race categories to choose from, and highlights include the Downhill Men Elite, Downhill Women Elite, Downhill Junior, Downhill Master, Freeride Master and Freeride or Downhill Novice. Entry fee is B700, and there will be 3 more races for this series, in different months and in different locations.www.mojobikes.co.th

MEMORIAL DAY, KOH SI CHANG September 19-20 The island of Koh Si Chang recalls its fleeting glory this month during its Centennial Memorial Day celebrations. The tiny island was once a getaway for Thai royalty, and Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) ordered the construction of a palace there to commemorate the place where his son was born. However, when French troops occupied the island in 1892 construction was put on hold. Eventually, the skeleton of the residence was moved to Bangkok, where it would become Vimanmek Mansion. The Memorial Day celebrations feature various activities and performances— the perfect excuse to visit this oft overlooked destination.

SAT THAI FESTIVAL September 25-October 4 The Buddhist festival ofSat Thai takes place primarily in the southern part of Thailand, especially in Nakhon Si Tammarat province. The festival starts on the ninth day of the waxing of the 10th lunar month of the Thai calendar. Traditionally, families come together and visit their local temple and give offerings to their deceased relatives. Also they may give offerings to unrelated deceased people, especially praet, the giant ghosts with small mouths who are always hungry. The offerings are made of a special food, which has special meanings.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 49 TRAVEL | over the border

Dawn of the Gods Joining the ranks of pilgrims climbing up the slopes of Sri Lanka’s most sacred peak rewards one with an early morning knock on heaven’s door Words by Marco Ferrarese Photos by Chan Kit Yeng

t’s pitch black and we are walking inside a snake of of Sri Lanka, by contrast, pilgrims respect their gods lights, crawling up the dark mountain slope. Passing so much they walk barefoot on the peak’s cold stone under the arched tips of its neon-light vertebrae, steps. All around us, women’s bangles tinkle against Iwe scratch the insides of its belly with the light beams of tired ankles, and maroon swaths of monks pull their our torches. Step after step, this ancestral reptile moves robes over their shoulders to shield themselves from sinuously until its flickering body hits another bend and the mountain’s frostbite. All together, we go up silently twists again, forever upwards in the night. towards the summit, to the place they call Adam’s Peak. I’ve tackled quite a few mountains in my life—from But most importantly, this is Sri Pada, home of the the brown, flat headed giants embracing their knees atop ‘Sacred Footprint’, and the main reason for our spiralling China’s plains, to the pointy fellows holding each other’s ever upwards. hands before the entrance of Eden in the Annapurna At 2,243 meters, Adam’s Peak is one of Sri Lanka’s region of Nepal. More challenging mountains, yes, but highest mountains and lies among the southern haunted by less solemn spirits. Here in the deep south Central Highlands of the Ratnapura district in the

50 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com over the border | TRAVEL

Sabaragamuwa province, 150 km east of Sri Lanka’s glowing ball into a sea of misty grey clouds covering the capital Colombo. It rises like a green fang from a plains below. carpet of dense forest reserve where it is said that wild Getting to Adam’s Peak is an act of devotion in itself. elephants and leopards still dwell. Besides flocks of After snaking fromKandy to Hatton on a slow train clouds, the peak also magnetizes thousands of pilgrims through the grassy bends of unending Ceylonese tea of different religions every day. In fact, theSri Pada, a estates, I caught a rickety bus to Dalhousie, the starting 1.8-meter-long rock formation that juts from the summit, point of the 5 km Nallathanni climbing route, the shortest has a mixed bag of religious meanings. Buddhists believe and most direct way to the summit. A cluster of chai it is the Sacred Footprint of the Buddha, while Hindus stalls, homestays, and restaurants were tablecloths are believe it is that of Shiva. Meanwhile, to Christians never de rigueur, Dalhousie rests at the foot of the Sacred and Muslims, it’s the sign of Adam’s passage on earth. Mountain, and feels like it’s been custom-made to start Based on legends, the first person to discover the sacred the Sri Pada experience. The basic facilities available here footprint was King Valagambahu (104-76 BC) as he fled seem perfectly attuned to the reasons of the climb, which from marauding Cholian armies, and stumbled upon the is not leisure, but pure pilgrimage. However, travellers can site running after a deity disguised as stag. Marco Polo find shelter in a cluster of simple but cozy guesthouses later visited—in the 14th century—reporting that his manned by gregarious locals who have decided to squeeze ascent was “extremely arduous”. a little profit from the nearby sacred peak. Today, a stone staircase helps every Sri Lankan I’m out of bed and standing in the cold by 3am, since tackle the mountain several times during their lives. dawn breaks at 6:30am, and the climb can take from two- From December to April, when pilgrimage season is and-a-half to four hours. I follow groups of pilgrims in white in full swing, the peak glows every night as if it were dothis and sarees who lead me through the dark and to the inhabited by thousands of fireflies. Some climb in the beginning of the incline, almost 2 km into the ascent. afternoon to reach the shrine at sundown, but the most “Each time feels like the first,” says Saman, a slender popular and spiritual route is to ascend in the middle of man from a village near Bentota. He and his wife are at the night, catching the crack of dawn as it slam-dunks a their fifth climb, and today they are accompanying their

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 51 TRAVEL | over the border

six year-old son for his first ascent. Before the path starts marble-floored island filled with a revolving of pilgrims. rising, a monk from the nearby Japanese temple comes They walk in circles, reciting mantras, queuing up to pray forward for an offer and a blessing, and ties a white before the Sacred Footprint. On the edge of the slope, string around my waist. With the eye of one of Sri Pada’s young monks in woollen hats hold their robes tight under benevolent Gods upon me, I proceed upwards as the their chins with frosty fingers, waiting for the beauty of incline slowly turns into a stone staircase. Sleepy people the sun’s first kick into a new day. With a glowing shrine buried under mounds of blankets are waiting under the and the sound of tolling bells behind my back, I join the neon lights set at the sides of the path to keep darkness line and watch thirsty clouds dripping gold over the goose at bay. They outstretch their arms, holding pans filled with bumps of central Sri Lanka’s back, stretching below us soul soothing chai over portable gas stoves. Cups, even on towards the horizon. As I gulp in awe, my tired legs stop a sacred mountain, have the inflated prices of tourism’s aching. The spectacle makes us all forget that we will have gold rush. to return to Earth, at some point. The peak itself comes into view when we are a couple of hours into the climb. Very few of the humans we meet along the staircase are heading down. The faces of the people are still, their mouths zipped up and their eyes Getting there pointed to the trail ahead as they shiver surrounded by Two daily trains leave from Kandy to Hatton. Number 1005 pitch black. The darkness starts dispersing in tones of blue departs at 8:47am and arrives at 11:12am, while number as the path becomes one with the rock of the peak, and 1015 leaves at 11:10am and arrives at 1:26pm. From handle bars appear to help us all pull ourselves upwards Hatton’s train station, buses depart to Dalhousie until 3pm. and finally to the top. During pilgrimage season, direct buses go to Dalhousie from The arrival is surreal. Just before the night shatters like Colombo, Kandy and Nuwara Eliya. However, the scenic train a broken mirror in cracks of burning red, we exit from the route across the Hill Country is a highly recommended way to snaking trail head crossing a melee of shoes abandoned reach the sacred peak. right before the Sacred Shrine’s platform, a high-altitude

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| ART & CULTURE A R T Patronage System Exhibition of oil paintings by Leela Promwong

his month the art exhibition PATRONAGE SYSTEM presents a series of oil paintings that touch upon the idea of nonequivalence in society, involving the behaviour of wealthy persons towards the Tpoor. Artist LEELA PROMWONG depicts—in a Thai contemporary style that incorporates both fantasy and fantastic creatures—the image of the wealthy person exhibiting threatening behaviour, much like a kind of gangster. In turn, these acts lead to persecution, threats, and exploitation against people who are in vulnerable situations. The person who has no money and no power falls wearily into position. Of this series of artworks, four were created in the year 2015, and four in this year (2016). In all of the paintings the “patronage system” that is conveyed and referred to illustrates the highest to the lowest points in the food chain in nature—that of carnivore and herbivore—to insinuate things about the essential problems in human society. These artworks are outstanding and individual in composition and also in brush stroke technique. The artist’s fastidious style of painting recreates perfectly every detail of each form represented. Likewise, the striking colours bring out strong feelings and seem to bore straight into the eyes of the audience.

PATRONAGE SYSTEM runs from SEPTEMBER 3-24 at the NUMBER 1 GALLERY (19, Silom Soi 21). Viewing hours are Monday to Saturday, from 11am till 7pm. For more information, call 02 630 3381.

www.number1gallery.com

facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 55 ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

SEPTEMBER 1-30 Absolutely Unsure YenakArt Villa 69 Soi Prasart Suk, Yenakart Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Fri, 3pm-7pm Tel: 02 235 9800 | www.yenakartvilla.com

This multi-media exhibit presents works by a group of four fresh graduates, and two seasoned graduates, all from Bangkok University’s Visual Art department. The exhibition title is an oxymoron—two words with contradictory meanings that are placed next to one another. Many contradictions and paradoxes appear naturally in our everyday encounters, especially in our current age of unashamed selfies and banal social-media broadcasts. These young artists reflect relevant voices of their generation, with interpretations from the grand narrative ideas of Thainess, gender and individuality.

SEPTEMBER 2-NOVEMBER 20 Traces and Trails Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm Tel: 02 214 6630 | www.bacc.or.th

Traces and Trails is an art exhibition to honourPratuang Emjaroen, an influential Thai contemporary visual artist. The exhibition concludes his monumental series from his first artistic period, to the very recent one spanning over five decades of his creative output. In this exhibition his works of art will be structured in five sections in order to clarify the evolutionary road this acclaimed National Artist of Thailand has paved—a narrative that fully embraces the story of his life, and family, as well as the deeply involving ever-changing scenarios of Thai society, economy, and politics. A must-see retrospective.

SEPTEMBER 8–OCTOBER 8 Lab/Art Tadu Contemporary Art 2F, Thaiyarnyon Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 87 Viewing hours: daily from 9:30am-6pm Tel: 02 311 8848 | facebook: Tadu Contemporary Art

In this interactive installation exhibition Witayaby Junma—curated by Nikan Bow Wasinondh—a set of art projects combine technology and human interaction-based digital arts. Each project has been through hours and hours thought processing and finessing, and participants in these projects will be able to experience and interpret their feelings when interacting in the installation which, in turn, will make them part of the overall exhibit. The 36 year-old artist behind the show is a graduate of the Faculty of Fine Art, Chiang-Mai University, and has exhibited numerous times in and around Bangkok.

56 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

SEPTEMBER 9–NOVEMBER 12 Parade of Toys Kalwit Studio & Gallery 119/14, Ruamrudee Soi 2 Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 254 4629 | www.facebook.com/kalwitstudio

Racial and cultural discrimination is always unavoidable in any form of social movement. The vast majority of people are often superficial or pay unwarranted attention to the appearance of others. Similarly, favouritism and patronage are deeply rooted in society. For some, both can be beneficial and troublesome, which can lead to problems seen today. Ideas such as these are what artistsJirapong Somphao, Phurapol Sotaiyin, and Phuwadon Thongnoum choose to explore. This showcase of their work reflects the meet-up and brainstorming sessions held between these three talented artists as they discuss the subject through art.

SEPTEMBER 15-18 Nocturne Project 189 Bangkok 189 Soi Nana, Mitrijit Rd. Viewing hours: 10am-10pm (closing party at 7pm on the 18th) Tel: 089 890 0450 | www.facebook.com/project189bkk

Photographer Nana Chen first exhibited her series entitled Nocturne, a portrait of Bangkok’s Chinatown, back in June of this year. Now her show returns to Bangkok, but just for four days. Chen explores Chinatown by night, over the course of two months, and her photos are haunted by isolation, loneliness, decay, and death—a temple morphs into the face of a lion, an artificial streak of light points to an eroded building, and a display case containing dried leaves and stuffed tarantulas suggests an alchemist lives nearby. Her images at once dissect the human condition and life’s fading elegance.

SEPTEMBER 15-OCTOBER 15 Nine Expressions of Asia Sathorn 11 Art Space 404, Soi 11, Sathorn Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 004 1199 | www.sathorn11.com

This group photography exhibition will feature both Thai nationals and non-Thais alike. The line up includes world- renowned photographers such as Andrew McNeill, Ekkarat Punyatara, Jesper Haynes, Tavepong Pratoomwong, Christian Hogue, Miti Ruangkritya, Nick McGrath, Vichaya Chatikavanij, and Rudolf Beger. The photographers will exhibit their work under the theme of ‘Expression of Asia’, and each master shutterbug will bring their own style and influence to bear, creating their interpretation of what “expresses” Asia to them. It should be interesting to see what differences and similarities might emerge.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 57 ART & CULTURE | arts feature

Chinese Acrobats

Giselle Avner Biron Hollywood Sound A Cultural Feast Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance & Music returns, running from September 8th till October 19th

By Lekha Shankar

t’s September, which means it’s time once again and 9th, while the single performance of Giselle will take for the city’s best-known cultural extravaganza, place on September 11th. the 18th annual Bangkok International Festival of The Russian influence continues with Moscow’s IDance & Music, to take over the stage at the Thailand dynamic Helikon Opera Theatre, who will perform two Cultural Centre (14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd). This year of their best-known dramas—Verdi’s powerful Un Ballo In culture vultures have a mega-buffet of events to choose Maschera (A Masked Ball) on September 18th, and Bizet’s from, including ballet, opera, jazz, symphony, Spanish unforgettableCarmen on September 20th. Both operas flamenco, Indian dance, and even Chinese acrobatics. will include subtitles in Thai and English. The festival opens in grand style with a pair of The Ballet du Grand Théâtre de Genève is one of the performances direct from Russia. The roster features premier dance groups from Switzerland, and they will be two highly popular ballets, Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake and in town on September 24th to perform the classic Wagner Adolphe Adam’s Giselle, and both are being performed by drama Tristan and Isolde. And one of the most exciting a 90-strong troupe from the famed Moscow Stanislavsky things about this performance is the fact that the lead is Ballet, complete with spectacular stage sets and live played by award-winning Swiss-Thai ballerina Sarawanee orchestra. Swan Lake will be performed on September 8th Tanatanit. The troupe will also appear on the 26th of

58 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com arts feature | ART & CULTURE

Arts Interview ADITI MANGALDAS

On September 14th don’t miss Unchartered Seas, a magnificent exposition of the sizzling Kathak dance form, performed by globally renowned Sarawanee Tanatanit Indian dancer Aditi Mangaldas. The phenomenal twists September to perform Carl Orff’sCamina Burana. and turns of this Thailand’s Swiss Ambassador HE Ivo Sieber raves over dance form have the group’s “sublime and dynamic virtuosity”, but been masterfully ballet fans already know this is a must-see event. choreographed by the dancer into a scintillating Aditi Mangaldas ballet that shows, “WE BELIEVE THAT MUSIC AND ART CAN according to Indian DEVELOP BOTH THE PEOPLE AND THE Ambassador HE Bhagwant Singh Bishnoi, “The spirit of innovation, while respecting the dance form’s rich NATION. THAT’S WHY IT’S OUR HONOUR TO heritage and traditions.” SPONSOR THIS HIGH-QUALITY FESTIVAL.” Does the title ‘Uncharted Seas’ exemplify your own Vichien Shnatepaporn philosophy? CEO of www.jobtopgun.com It does reflect my philosophy of always wanting to (associated with the festival since last year) discover new things and trying to find a path through the unknown.

As for great classical music groups gracing the Is this production a total celebration of the Kathak stage, the world-famous Israel Camerata Orchestra dance form? will appear on September 22nd. Still led by their Yes, the production traverses through the entire legendary founder-conductor Avner Biron, the repertoire of classical Kathak. group is noted for its huge repertoire, and will play everything from Bartok, to Haydn and Schubert. What makes Kathak different from other Indian Later in the month a different set of rhythms dance forms? comes to town, as Europe's Scalatheater brings Kathak is unique because it combines Hindu and Bangkok their Hollywood Sound of Cinema show. Muslim traditions. It is open-ended, and therefore Eight magnificent singers, who have brought more conducive for innovation. audiences to their feet around the world, will resurrect the best of Hollywood songs live on stage. Why is Kathak often compared to the flamenco Finally, in a must-attend event, for the family, the dance form? China National Acrobatic Troupe returns to wow It’s generally believed that Kathak is the parent of audiences young and old. According to Chinese flamenco. That’s because there was a time when there Cultural AttachéChen Jiang, this acrobatic troupe is was a lot of trade and exchange between the gypsies one of the oldest and best-known groups in China, of North India and Spain. and they have performed in nearly 124 nations across the globe. He’s excited by the dynamic new Do you enjoy doing both classical and contemporary acts they’ll be performing this year, which he’s sure Kathak dance? will dazzle and delight Thai audiences. Yes, I enjoy both. Basically I love to dance, and don’t want to restrict myself, in body, mind, and heart. NOTE: In next month’s issue we’ll be highlighting the festival events that are set to take place in October. How special is this festival to you? It’s an honour and pleasure to be a part of this festival, For more information: www.bangkokfestivals.com where we are representing an ancient Indian classical dance form that is still relevant today. For purchase tickets: www.thaiticketmajor.com

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 59 ART & CULTURE | cinema scope Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

uropean cinema is definitely at the forefront of Meanwhile, the BACC continues itsCinema Diverse: film screening news this month, as both Italy and Director’s Choice series. The theme all year has been ‘The Sweden are holding mini-festivals, showcasing Female Perspective’, and on September 24th award- Esome of the more promising releases from each winning Thai film directorPimpaka Towira presents Happy respective nation. Hour (2015) directed by Ryûsuke Hamaguchi. Tickets are The 5th annual Swedish Film Festival gets underway B60 each and the screening begins at 3pm. The post- first, at theSF World Cinema (CentralWorld), beginning on screening Q&A with the director will be conducted in Thai September 7th. There will be seven films in total screened with English translation.en.bacc.or.th before the festival wraps up on September 11th, and On a different note, fans of the FCCT’s long running four of them will be screened twice. The list of movies ‘Contemporary World Film Series’ will be happy to know includes: Astrid (2015), a film about the creator of the that the series has a new home at Thailand Knowledge Pippi Longstocking series; The Circle (2015), a spooky tale (TK) Park, located on the 8th floor of CentralWorld. Kicking of witches, magic, and six teenage girls; and We Are the off the season will beFair Play (2014), by Czech film Best (2013), a look back on director Andrea Sedlackova Stockholm’s early punk scene (with English and Thai as seen through the eyes of subtitles). The story revolves three young girls. Tickets are around doping in Olympic B120 each, and the films will sports—an issue that couldn’t be screened in Swedish with be more topical. The screening English subtitles. Check the takes place on Saturday, cinema website for more info. September 10th at 4pm, and www.sfcinemacity.com will be followed by snacks and This month’s Italian Film refreshments provided by the Festival—which is being Embassy of the Czech Republic. presented as part of the Fair Play Tickets are only B20 each. ongoing Italian Festival in If you happen to be in the Thailand 2016—will begin north end of the city, the on September 13th and Paragon Cineplex Cinema at continue until September the Esplanade Park Rangsit 18th, presenting seven films is hosting theLittle Big Films in total. Screenings will take Project. On September 15th place at the stylish Quartier catch After The Storm (2015), CineArt, located in the a Japanese film byHirokazu EmQuartier shopping mall Kore-eda, and on September (BTS Phrom Phong station). 29th don’t miss About Ray The list of films, all but one The Forest (2015) starring Elle Fanning, from 2015, includes: Youth (La Naomi Watts, and Susan Giovinezza), in which a retired orchestra conductor receives Sarandon—a huge hit at last year’s Toronto Film Festival. an invitation to play for Queen Elizabeth;Il Nome del Figlio, At the end of the month, on September 30th, the WTF the story of a couple who can’t agree on a name for their (What The Film) Short Film Festival takes place at Jam (41 newborn baby; and The Bear Tales (I Racconti dell’Orso), Soi Rong Nam Kang), with some of the best local talents a surreal narrative involving a mechanical monk, a man showcasing their work. Start time is 7pm. dressed in red, and a small teddy bear. All movies will be Finally, make a point of seeing the new Thai horror screened in Italian with English subtitles. Visit the website at filmThe Forest when it begins its theatrical release on www.majorcineplex.com/en/cinema/quartier-cineart September 15th at SF World Cinema at CentralWorld. Another taste of European cinema can be had by The movie’s director is Paul Spurrier, a long time Bangkok attending either of theGoethe Institute’s free screenings resident and also the creative mind behindThe Friese- of the brilliant 1987 filmWings of Desire, directed by Wim Greene Club (Bangkok’s most unique screening venue). Wenders. The film follows two angels as they watch over The film, which has already been shown at several the fates of various residents of pre-fall-of-the-wall Berlin. international festivals, tells the supernatural story of a The first of the two screenings of this art-house classic will village teacher in rural Thailand and a mute girl in his class be at 1pm at the Thai Film Archive (Salaya) on September who retreats into a fantasy world where she finds solace 11th, and the second at 1pm at the Bangkok Art and in the forest with a strange wild boy. You can watch the Culture Centre (BACC) on September 13th. trailer here: https://youtu.be/t9Vipg7Ubw4

60 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

A Space to Exist Solo Exhibition by Gi-ok Jeon

“As an immigrant, maybe I still worry about my own space to exist.”

orean-born Gi-ok Jeon received her BFA in painting in Seoul, her MFA in Chinese painting from the prestigious Beijing Central Academy of KFine arts, and moved to Bangkok and continued to study printmaking at the Department of Visual Arts & Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts at Chulalongkorn University.

She is an innovative multi-media artist combining many different techniques—from embroidery and woodcuts, to painting and weaving—and she uses these diverse methods to touch upon content that is associated with multicultural identity, motherhood, and daily life; at all times referencing her Korean heritage, Chinese aesthetic, and Thai life.

Her exhibition A Space to Exist, makes use of Thai Patoong fabric on Korean rice paper and Korean Hanbok fabric on Thai bamboo paper. The show is presented in partnership with the Korean Cultural Center, and will be on display at the Subhashok Arts Centre (160/3, Soi Sukhumvit 39) from September 3rd to October 2nd, 2016. Art & Culture Photo Feature

FOOD & DRINK |

Chef Alessandro Boglione

68 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com | FOOD & DRINK A R O Y san pellegrino celebrity chef event From September 14th to 17th, ENOTECA ITALIANA restaurant, in collaboration with the San Pellegrino Fine Dining Lovers series, is hosting four gourmet evenings with one of the best young chefs in Italy, Chef ALESSANDRO BOGLIONE, whose restaurant il Castello in Italy has been awarded one Michelin star each year from 2010 to 2016. Chef Boglione will present two different five-course dégustation menus—one meat and one fish—both priced at B3,500++. For an additional B1,500++ the dinners also include a specially curated wine pairing from GFOUR INTERNATIONAL fine wines. Secure your space early as these events are almost guaranteed to sell out. For reservations call 02 258 4386.

finding your niche For an inventively delicious East meets West experience, make your way to NICHE restaurant, the ground floor dining venue at the SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK, and try the new conceptual menu creations from Executive Chef JAMES NORMAN. The idea here is that diners select dishes prepared in an ‘Asian’ or ‘non-Asian’ interpretation. For instance, the 48-hour braised smoked beef rib ‘Asian style’ comes with tamarind glaze, coriander seeds and fragrant herb salad, while the non-Asian option is served in a delicious BBQ sauce with buttered corn. “We encourage guests to make multiple selections in order to enjoy the tremendous variety on the menu, and the sizes of each portion encourage diners to share and compare,” explains the chef, who promises equally enticing menu variations utilizing blue fin tuna, oysters, New York strip steak, lobster, and a whole lot more.

chiang mai chèvre Bangkok-based gourmet food producers VIVIN—whose product range includes whole duck foie gras terrine, dried duck magret, and caviar—has just introduced a new line of GOAT CHEESES, available for purchase from the company’s permanent corner shop at the Central Chidlom Food Hall. Both the gourmand goats and the production facility that produces the handmade cheeses are based in CHIANG MAI, and the new range of cheeses come in six different varieties: a 4-week aged Colliné, a ricotta-style, two semi- fresh varieties called bûchette and petit blanc, and two seasoned options: fresh black pepper, and fresh garlic and herb. www.vivinmaison.com

new and notable Slaves to sushi have no doubt already made the pilgrimage to the 4th floor of the CUBE MAHANAKHON, where American Iron Chef TV star MASAHARU MORIMOTO just opened his newest signature Japanese restaurant—named, not surprisingly, MORIMOTO BANGKOK. Another “one name says it all” chef who recently opened a venue in town is Bangkok’s own GAGGAN ANAND, whose brand new GAGGAN LAB hosted a series of delicious debut private dining sessions last month (one of which Bangkok 101 was fortunate enough to attend).

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 69 FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Panorama presents Roast Night Pleasures Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumphini Park | 952 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 632 9000 | www.crowneplaza-bangkok.com The sky-high Panorama restaurant, located on the 23rd floor of the Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumphini Park, presents ‘Roast Night Pleasure’, the finest grilled specialties from land and sea—including Wagyu beef, Boston lobster, and Hokkaido scallops. For B800 you have your choice of unlimited appetizers, such as oysters, salmon sashimi, and parma ham, while the roasted items are ordered à la carte. This promotion takes place every Friday night until October 31st, with a 10 percent discount for online booking.

Mid-Week Beer Therapy at Bistro M Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit | 90, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 555 | www.marriottsukhumvitpark.com Don’t let the weekday blues get you down! Come on over to Bistro M, located at the Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit, for a free flow evening of iced cold Chang beer along with your choice of an array of finger foods, including spicy chicken wings, marinated tiger prawn skewers, and seafood fritters. There’s even a live band providing some soulful musical accompaniment. This promotion is priced at B599 per person, and is available every Wednesday night from 7pm to 10pm.

Champagne Sunday Brunch at Anantara Siam Bangkok Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel | 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.com Every Sunday at the Anantara Siam Hotel enjoy a mouth-watering international brunch, with free flow premium champagne from Taittinger. Indulge yourself with fresh Sydney rock oysters, lamb chops, crispy pork loin, and much, much more. Guests can be seated in the dining outlet of their choice—Madison, Spice Market, Aqua Bar or Parichart Court— and brunch is served from 11:30am to 3pm. The champagne meal is priced at B3,750, or choose the B2,999 non-alcohol option (B1,500 for children 6 to 12 years old).

The Queen of the Freshwater Streams at Tai Hei Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com Located on the 53rd and 54th floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok, the authentic Japanese restaurant Tai Hei is bringing Bangkok seafood lovers one of the tastiest of all river fish. The Ayu, also known as Sweetfish, is a favourite ingredient in Japanese cuisine. Savour the aromatic delicacy and unique flavour of this noble fish—once served on the tables of the Imperial Courts. Enjoy this royal delicacy throughout September. The Ayu menu is available for lunch from 11:30am till 2:30pm, and dinner from 6pm till 11pm.

Indulgent New Sunday Brunch at Rain Tree Café Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Meridien | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.plazaatheneebangkok.com The recently redesigned Rain Tree Café at Plaza Athénée Bangkok returns with its gourmet Sunday Brunch inspired by the summer palace of King Rama V’s daughter. The unique culinary creations, courtesy of the international chef team, include grilled live lobster, imported oysters, Peking duck, and rack of lamb. Guests can also opt from a wide variety of à la carte menu items, such as pan-seared foie gras with spiced pineapple chutney. Brunch is served from noon to 3:30pm, and priced at B2,400 (B1,200 for kids).

Joint Sunday Brunching at Seasonal Tastes and Kisso The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok | 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.westingrandesukhumvit.com Spend your Sunday, from noon to 3pm, indulging in a joint brunch package at Seasonal Tastes and Kisso Japanese restaurant. Seasonal Tastes offers everything from imported charcuterie and cheeses to grilled lamb chops, while Kisso offers such all-time favourites as sushi, hotpot shabu, and beef curry. At Seasonal Tastes the price is B2,490, which includes soft drinks and access to the Kisso buffet. At Kisso the price is B2,950, with a glass of champagne, soft drinks, a half-lobster, and access to the Seasonal Tastes buffet.

70 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com hot plates | FOOD & DRINK Baan Phadthai A classic Thai dish gets an upgrade

hether you spell it phadthai, pad thai, or phat thai (the official RTGS transcription, Wwhich is also my personal preference), Thailand’s ubiquitous fried rice-noodle dish is the stuff of legend. Once ranked number 5 on CNN Go’s World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods readers’ poll, this sweet-and-savoury noodle pile can be traced back to the Ayutthaya era. Although rice noodle dishes of all kinds made their way from southern China to early Siam, particularly from the Chaozhou (Teochew) region of eastern Guangdong, the addition of dried prawns, tamarind, and ground peanuts lend it a certain Thai-ness. But it has also been suggested these attributes came via the Vietnamese presence in Ayutthaya. Whatever its true origins, Thai military dictator Plaek Pibulsonggram aggressively promoted the dish during his mid-20th-century rule as a way to counter the growing popularity of Chinese noodle dishes. The fact that it’s so common in Thailand, yet so badly done in many local eateries, means it’s often dissed among ‘serious’ Thai foodies. That’s a shame, because a well-fashioned phat thai is about as serious as you can get. The challenge is finding one worth writing home about, or writing about in a magazine. duck egg, and crab fat, takes the dish’s Oliang (B100-120), a black, sweet Thai Founded by French restaurateur traditional flavour profile to a whole coffee, and Thai tea (B90-100). Fred Meyer (Kombawa, Pizza Massilia, new level. Prices, fortunately, are very It’s also worth stopping by just for Namsaah Bottling Trust, Issaya Siamese reasonable considering the quality of the traditional Thai desserts, designed Club), Baan Phadthai gives the ingredients. We enjoyed the Phad Thai by Chef Arisara Chongphanitkul of namesake dish an admirable reboot Poo (B280), a magnificent crabmeat Issaya La Patisserie fame. Choices at a lovingly renovated, and rustically version, large enough for two to easily include Itim Ka Thi (B120), the richest, decorated, bright blue shophouse on share. Pork, chicken, and vegetarian most delicious coconut ice cream Charoen Krung road (walking distance renditions are also available. we’ve tasted anywhere in the city, and from BTS Saphan Taksin). The open-air Very tasty as well were all our the unique Xa La Bao Durian (B140), dining room—air-con dining will soon starters, including Gai Tod (spicy pandan-infused Chinese steamed buns be available upstairs—with its ceiling chicken wings, B150), Laab Moo Tod filled with durian cream. fans and wooden tables topped with (fried minced pork-and-herb balls, by Joe Cummings/CPA Media metal boxes holding the silverware, B190), and Mieng Khana (B150), an successfully evokes an old-school amped-up version of miang kham in noodle-house vibe. which kale replaces wild tea leaves. Baan Phadthai Chef Sujira Pongmorn’s secret We washed it all down with repeated 21-23, Charoenkrung Soi 44 18-ingredient phat thai base, glasses of Thai Mojito (B150), made Tel: 02 060 5553 combined with Chanthaburi rice with Sangsom whiskey. Among other Open daily: 11am-10pm noodles, homemade dried shrimp, beverages available are homemade www.facebook.com/baanphadthai

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 71 FOOD & DRINK | celebrity chef event Gourmand Gala Anantara Siam’s World Gourmet Festival returns with a stellar line-up of events, including Michelin Star chef dinners

ach year the arrival of the World MAURO COLAGRECO Gourmet Festival has Bangkok’s When: September 23-24 legions of foodies salivating in Where: Madison | Price: B6,900 Eanticipation. This year marks the 17th edition of this popular event, which Argentinian-born chefMauro runs from September 19th to the 25th Colagreco established Mirazur at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel. restaurant in Menton, France, in 2006, This year the chef line-up includes chefs and within six months he had received from France, Italy, Spain, Singapore and the ‘Revelation of the Year’ award from Hong Kong, but also brings two chefs Gault & Millau—a brand new category from farther afield—one from Sri Lanka to recognize his merits. Less than a year and one from Slovenia. later he had earned his first Michelin The lavish dinners will be taking star, and Mirazur officially became one over the hotel’s four main dining of the premier restaurants in the world, as listed in The S.Pellegrino World’s 50 establishments—Madison, Spice Best Restaurants list. In the same year, Colagreco was also awarded ‘Chef of the Market, Shintaro and Biscotti—while Year’ by the prestigiousGault & Millau restaurant guide. the cocktail events will take place in various locations, including theAqua bar. So, loosen that belt and get ready ANTHONY GENOVESE for a week of fabulous feasting. When: September 23-24 Where: Biscotti | Price: B6,900

Originally born in France, of Southern Italian origin, chef Anthony Genovese started his career in France, working in several Michelin-starred restaurants. In 2003 he settled in Italy and opened the restaurant Il Pagliaccio in an 18th century house in Rome—and soon received two Michelin stars. The gifted chef named his restaurant after the operaPagliacci , stating: “Clowns, just as cooks, are always in the spotlights, and have to be the best… JOSEAN ALIJA no matter what is behind the mask.” When: September 19-20 Where: Biscotti | Price: B6,900 DHARSHAN MUNIDASA Chef Josean Alija comes to town When: September 19-20 all the way from Michelin star Where: Spice Market | Price: B5,000 Nerua restaurant in Bilbao, Spain. In 2011 the International Academy of Chef Dharshan Munidasa founded Gastronomy awarded him the Prix both Nihonbashi and the Ministry du Chef de L’Avenir (The Chef of the of Crab, two of Sri Lanka’s most Future Award), and Cuaderno Matoses successful restaurants (both appearing selected Nerua as the second best on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list). restaurant in 2014, after visiting over In 2014 he began Kaema Sutra, a 350 restaurants in more than 20 contemporary Sri Lankan cuisine countries. In 2015, the Restaurant restaurant that draws inspiration from traditional recipes, many stemming magazine included Nerua for the first from local street fare. His cooking employs the use of fresh local produce time on its list of the world’s 100 best alongside Japanese culinary principles. Two of his restaurants even employ a restaurants, and in 2016 Nerua rose to no-freezer policy, emphasizing the use of fresh produce and guaranteeing the number 55 on the prestigious selection. quality of all his dishes.

72 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com celebrity chef event | FOOD & DRINK

KANESAKA SHINJI When: September 21-22 Where: Shintaro | Price: B8,900

Sushi maestro Kanesaka Shinji, the man behind Shinji by Kanesaka (Hong Kong and Singapore), delights sushi aficionados who are looking for the most authentic and the finest omakase (chef’s selection) experience. The restaurant joined the ranks of ANA ROŠ Michelin-starred establishments after only nine months of operation, making When: September 23-24 Kanesaka one of the most celebrated and youngest sushi chefs in Japan. The Where: Spice Market | Price: B6,900 restaurant is considered sushi Mecca by his legion of fans, which include country leaders and international celebrities. In the heart of Europe lies the small country of Slovenia, and it’s here that chef Ana Roš is the co-owner of Hiša MARCO STABILE Franko, her husband Valter’s familial When: September 21-22 guesthouse, located in the alpine Soca Where: Biscotti | Price: B6,900 Valley near the Italian border. The flowery, herbal, yet delicate and precise Hailing from Pontedera, in Tuscany, nature of her cooking has made her the chef Marco Stabile has quickly only woman, so far, to have joined the risen to prominence in Italy. He prestigious ‘Cook it Raw’ group of chefs. developed his skill for subtle At her much lauded restaurant she invention whilst working in some of serves dishes made with ingredients the country’s finest kitchens. Along sourced within walking distance from with his restaurant Ora d’Aria, in her restaurant—what she calls her Florence—where he is both resident head chef and co-owner—Marco is also “zero-kilometer” approach. an occasional teacher at some of Italy’s most celebrated culinary schools. He also remains a committed supporter and collaborator with the prestigious ‘Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe’ group (Young Restaurateurs of Europe).

BOBBY CHINN When: September 25 | Where: Aqua Time: Brunch from 11:30am till 3pm Price: B3,500-4,500

Born in New Zealand to a Chinese father and Egyptian mother,Bobby Chinn has lived a very international life, eventually settling in Vietnam HIDEAKI SATO in the mid 90s. Along the way he When: September 21-22 developed a passion for food and Where: Madison | Price: B6,900 cooking, and is now a renowned master of modern, global cuisine and a popular TV personality. He opened two award-winning restaurants in Vietnam After accumulating an impressive before closing them and relocating to London in 2014, where he created the resume—including leading the first modern Vietnamese concept and launched The House of Ho. He has also overseas branch of Tenku Ryugin, been the ambassador promoting ‘Sustainable Seafood Production’ for the in Hong Kong, and receiving two WWF since 2012. He will be preparing a special brunch on Sunday, September Michelin stars within just six months of 25th at Aqua, but will also be presentingBobby Chin Food & Band at the opening—Japanese-born chef Hideaki same venue on Saturday, September 24th from 9pm until midnight. Sato launched his restaurant Ta Vie (also in Hong Kong) in 2015. Described Dining Details Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel by the chef as a place where he can Dinners: Cocktails from 7pm, 155 Rajadamri Rd. apply Japanese cuisine philosophy Dinner at 7:30pm Tel: 02 126 8866 to French cuisine, his restaurant was Afternoon Teas: 3pm until 6pm Email: [email protected] awarded its first Michelin star that Brunches: 11:30am until 3pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com same year, and in 2016 was ranked on Other Events: 3pm until 5pm www.worldgourmetfestivalasia.com the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 73 FOOD & DRINK | review Saffron A score of years and petals on a plate

o celebrate Banyan Tree Bangkok’s 20th year, the high-in-the-sky fine Thai Tcuisinery Saffron is offering a set menu featuring a selection of wine-paired, contemporary-traditional dishes that eloquently capture the flavourful essence of Thailand’s rich culinary heritage. And the addition of brilliantly hued edible flowers provides each course with a delightfully delectable soupçon of aesthetic seasoning. The Saffron Edible Flower Set Menu four- course dinner is priced at B1,899 per person (B2,899 with wine pairing for three of the courses). The cozy, view-swept 52nd-floor restaurant—the hotel’s signature venue—glows with warm, hardwood tones of a refined traditional ambiance, with the city’s skyline of architectural wonders spread out just beyond the table. After guests are treated to a traditional-style hand rinsing with warm, fragrant water from an elaborately decorated bowl, an appetiser of rice crackers and paper- thin saffron crisps is served with an accompanying trio of dipping sauces— eggplant relish, chicken-tomato and shrimp in coconut milk. This is followed by an amuse bouche of savoury Grilled pork salad with basil and a spring roll- lime leaf. This java-themed creation of mango and dragon fruit. Course wrapped morsel of Stir-fried duck. comes served in a coffee cup with a wine pairing: Muscat, Monsoon Valley Occupying the encore-appetizer sumptuous Japanese jumbo scallop Hua Hin, Thailand. slot, the Crispy squid legs salad with skewered on a stalk of lemongrass, and The exquisite service provided assorted flowers and coriander-mint a tuft of coconut foam topped with by the very personable and highly is reminiscent of the classic Thai gold leaf and cinnamon. knowledgeable wait staff is all about cuisine staple Som Tam salad—served The Grilled sea bass fillet with creating the best possible dining as it is on a bed of shredded apple sweet and sour sauce, wok-fried experience—inquiries are made and young mango, with a small cowslip creeper, and sunflower seeds regarding any food allergies, and side-pitcher of spicy-sweet sauce is ocean-fresh and nicely textured, guests are asked their preferred level that diners add DIY-style. And those garnished with grilled pineapple and of spiciness, with each order carefully familiar with the intricacies of Thai fried shallot. A banana leaf cone chilli-seasoned according to individual cooking will appreciate the addition is used to cover a side of steamed taste. by Gary Barber of roasted rice to the squid batter—a Riceberry rice, topped with a tiny very nice touch indeed. Course wine rosebud, creating a delightful—if not pairing: Blanc de Blancs Sparkling unintentional—festive yuletide tree Saffron Brut, Monsoon Valley, Thailand. effect.Course wine pairing: Fentinel- 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok A clever tribute to coffee-culture, Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy. 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. the Cappuccino coconut broth with Dessert is a light and refreshing Tel: 02 679 1200 grilled Japanese scallop is seasoned Roselle jelly with lychee foam, Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm with sesbania, galangal and kaffir garnished with intricately carved bites www.banyantree.com

74 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com CUISINE

ART

Introducing “Northern Exposure”

This year Ruen Urai new menu offerings are inspired by northern Thailand or Lanna, “Land of Million Rice Fields.” As crossroads of cultures, northern culinary art seamlessly blend local strong characteristics with Burmese, Lao, and Chinese influences into a wealth of lavish dishes, full of flavours and textures. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com FOOD & DRINK | review Food Exchange Healthy weekend buffet satisfies the heart & mind

live-cooking kitchen kiosks are the true centrepieces of the restaurant’s interior. In the aptly named “Japanese corner” the selection of colourful sushi and sashimi is a powerful magnet— several trips were made—but I also found myself drawn to the selection of Middle Eastern treats, including couscous, hummous, falafel, chicken kofta, and pita bread. I also scooped up a healthy dollop of the tangy guacamole, adding a Mexican touch to my increasingly international plate. Both of the restaurant’s kitchen kiosks also offer chef prepared items, which are then delivered to your table. I made a point of sampling the Indonesian Gado Gado salad (steamed vegetables and hard-boiled eggs, with fried tofu, tempeh, bean sprouts, and a yummy peanut sauce dressing) as it’s not often you find this on a Bangkok menu. Other made-to- order items include stir-frys, noodle soups, paellas, and pastas— although I’m still puzzled as to how the deliciously creamy carbonara qualifies as a “fit” food. But the carbonara isn’t the only guilty pleasure available, as a cheesy chicken lasagna, a bechamel-heavy moussaka, and an never ending steam of (mainly vegetarian) pizzas are also on offer. There’s even some delectable uffet dinners often conjure up all-you-can-eat buffet full of healthy desserts to choose from, including images of overflowing heaps of dining options. The selections include a divine mango yoghurt ice cream, decadent menu items—from both Thai and international favourites, and the all-time Thai classic mango Bfatty foie gras, to marbled slabs of while the juicing station supplies with sticky rice. Finally, a well chosen beef and heart-stopping (literally) diners with a free-flow of healthy fruit selection of red and white wines are hunks of blue cheese and camembert. smoothies and juices. And while some available by the glass (B280-340), And while your tastebuds might now might bemoan the fact that there’s no or you can accompany your meal be tingling, remember that healthier red meat on offer, there’s plenty of with signature cocktails, or imported dining options can be just as flavourful. delicious alternatives to make up for premium beers. After all, you can With this in mind, it’s worth noting that absence. be healthy but still have a bit of fun, that the recently opened Novotel The restaurant itself is spacious, right? by Bruce Scott Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 hotel is now airy, and well-lit, with blonde wood hosting healthy weekend dinner walls and partitions, Danish-modern buffets atFood Exchange, their 200- chairs, neutrals and grey tones in Food Exchange seat, 7th floor restaurant. the floor tiling, and a few splashes of Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit The concept here is relatively deep blue in the cushioned upholstery 19/9, Soi Sukhumvit 20 simple. Every Friday and Saturday of the rounded group table booths. Tel: 02 009 4999 from 6pm till 10:30pm, just B999 But it’s the food that ultimately Open daily: 11:30am-11pm net per person gets you access to an commands one’s attention, and two www.novotelbangkoksukhumvit20.com

76 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review Celadon The timelessly tantalizing flavours of classic Thai cuisine

mid Bangkok’s kaleidoscopic dining scene of fusion, pan- continental, and otherwise Acreatively merged cuisines,Celadon at the Sukhothai Bangkok hotel is an oasis of traditional Thai cooking at its very best. The stand-alone structure sits just off the hotel’s main entrance at the end of a long drive—the tranquil, leafy stretch providing a welcome buffer from the hotel’s ever-bustling main road frontage—and the authentic cultural ambience helps give the restaurant its award-winning appeal. The interior décor presents a refined, understated contemporary motif, with touches of traditional Thai. The ceiling-high glass walls that frame a surrounding lily pond are lined with a metre-high row of stemmed fronds, which glow green with rays of the setting sun—swaying in unison like a legion of emerald sentries. The ambience is further enhanced by a duo of classical Thai dancers in full costume, whose stoic charm and graceful movements, accompanied by gentling lilting rhythms, enchantingly complete the overall dining experience (dance performances are at 7:30 and 8:30pm). The richly curated menu of seen on menus of overseas Thai (B350) features ruby-red water meticulously prepared Thai specialties eateries. Meanwhile, the Larb Nuepoo chestnut dumplings and diced Jackfruit includes Khong Waang (B550), (B550), a spicy crabmeat salad that in a rich-sweet coconut milk broth, a sumptuous appetizer sampler comes sassily served in martini glass, while the Khaomao Thod (B350) featuring twin servings of satay pork, sees chilled shellfish aggressively arrives as a fried banana coated with a crab spring roll, fried shrimp cake, pork seasoned with thin-cut Kaffir lime crust of young green rice, served with dumpling, and fried chicken in pandan leaf—the pungent (perhaps bordering a dollop of creamy-rich house made leaf. Likewise, the Thai classic starter on overwhelmingly so) presence of coconut ice cream. Miang Kam (B380) is a delightful DIY which is tempered by the addition of The restaurant also offers diners platter of toasted coconut, dried powdered roasted rice. an extensive list of wines, cocktails, shrimp, peanut, lime rind, and ginger, The Celadon chef also presents and premium spirits, as well as health with fresh chaplu leaves for wrapping. “recommended” menu items that and herbal drinks, imported teas, and The kitchen’s signature Yam change on a regular basis, the most inventive coffee creations. Som-O Gai Goong (B350) is a recent being Goong Mangkorn Khao by Gary Barber refreshing and intensely flavourful Kluk Taojiewsod—Maine lobster with salad, combining seedless bites of soya bean paste fried rice—featuring the tangy Asian grapefruit (pomelo) plump chunks of premium imported Celadon with chicken and prawns seasoned crustacean tail and claw meat, served The Sukhothai Bangkok with tamarind paste and bits of crispy with fragrantly herbed fried rice and 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. fried shallot. This Thai cuisine heritage Thai-style seafood sauce (B1,800). Tel: 02 344 8888 specialty item is offered locally only in As a sweet coda to the preceding Open daily: noon-3pm, 6:30pm-11pm upper-tier restaurants, and is rarely symphony of flavours,Tab Tim Krob www.sukhothai.com

78 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Basil An epicurean journey through Thailand

erving up four regional are greeted by welcoming staff and seeds and served with a sweet Thai cuisines—northern, treated to a complimentary appetizer, tamarind sauce, the soft-shell crab northeastern, central, and miang kham, which are leaf-wrapped remains moist and juicy within. Ssouthern—Basil showcases each salad bites filled with ginger, lime, red The dishes are best paired with a region’s own distinct flavours and onions, dried shrimps, peanuts, and a refreshing Lychee mojito (B330). specialities through a lush array tamarind sauce. When you order from one of of authentic culinary creations. A star on the northeastern menu, the restaurant’s set menus, it is With its regional set menus for two Koy tuna (B430) is a fresh take on spicy impossible to miss out on sweets as (price ranges from B3,200-3,800), tuna tartare as it is made Isaan-style. It a grand dessert trolley comes by and the restaurant lets you take a is a light starter with a burst of complex tempts you with a delectable selection mouthwatering journey to a specific flavours as the fresh sashimi tuna is of treats. The Khao niew mamuang region, savouring all its unique tastes mixed with toasted rice powder, mint, (B300), mango and sticky rice, is a Thai and tangs. Alternatively, you may also lime and lemongrass. Representing classic but Basil adds a unique touch to order from the à la carte menu, where central Bangkok, the Yum som o tohu it by infusing the scent of Jasmine into you can select from a wide variety of (B390) is a must-try. On top of the their rice. Meanwhile the Crème brûlée long-standing menu favourites. An shredded pomelo and crunchy water mapraow orn (B300) is beautifully ode to the vibrant Thai culture and its chestnut salad, you may also add presented in a coconut halfshell, cooking styles, each dish is carefully prawns for an extra texture element where you can savour the creamy curated by Chef Kesinee and her team to this delicious appetizer. Another custard with the silky smooth white and made with exquisite ingredients. highlight is the Sarong (B460), which coconut flesh. by Anne Wong Located in the Sheraton Grande involves deep-fried marinated prawns Sukhumvit hotel, Basil is a vast, wrapped in golden crisp egg noodles. modern restaurant that houses sleek As for mains, try Salmon yang Basil dark wood tables alongside mixed takrai (B480) and enjoy the subtle 1F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit coloured chairs and couches in orange, fragrance of lemongrass in this grilled 250 Sukhumvit Rd. yellow and red. The warm colours and salmon. For crunchy, luscious bites Tel: 02 649 8366 the simplicity of the restaurant adds of seafood, Poo nim klook nga thord Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, a sense of modern elegance to the (B440) would make a delightful main Lunch: Mon-Fri, 12pm-2:30pm décor. The moment you step in, you to share. Deep-fried with sesame www.basilbangkok.com

80 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. www.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751 Breaking Bread with Philippe Rusin Discussing Thailand’s constantly evolving coffee culture

espite having a coffee cart at with two outlets in Bangkok, and The interior here is minimalistic every pak soi in downtown whose coffee beans are supplied by and stylish, with a coffee-coloured Bangkok, finding a good cup award-winning Australian roaster palette and furnishings, abstract Dthat isn’t burnt or diluted in syrup is Phillip Di Bella. artwork, and exposed vintage quite difficult. Fortunately, the last We find ourselves at the D’ARK lighting. The floor-to-ceiling glass few years have seen this city’s coffee flagship store inEmQuartier where it’s windows provide soothing views of culture gaining momentum and going not only hard to find a spot to sit, but the mall’s famous indoor waterfall— niche market. Specialty coffee joints also get the café’s general manager complementing the casual ambience headed by world champion baristas Philippe Rusin to sit still for a moment. of the place. In case you want to and roasters are fast becoming the It’s a busy Saturday afternoon at the people-watch, there’s plenty of trend. And making its imprint on this restaurant, and all hands are on deck seating available outside, with room movement is D’ARK, a café brand for the brunchers pouring in. even for pets.

82 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

Philippe finally joins us over a pairs these dishes with one of their To this dish, Philippe recommends the bottle of Vouvray and our first course single origin coffees. We try the Kenyan—a medium-bodied Arabica of a spicy Maine lobster ceviche. “The Peruvian, which is his best seller. The with a sweet and floral aroma. It’s light basic idea to start a coffee cart in Asia drink is smooth and goes very well with and goes well with our main. came when three entrepreneurs, Di our entrees. “Each single origin has its So is it hard converting the Bella, J.S. Gill (of the Singaporean-based own ID, much like wine, and comes masses? “It’s challenging,” Philippe Gill Capital), and Philippe Lassaux with a card that educates you about the admits. “The market here is 90 percent all met in Brisbane,” he starts off by country of origin, region, estate, and full of instant coffee, and iced lattes explaining. As we dig into the refreshing sometimes the farmer too,” he points sweetened with condensed milk. The combination of lobster, red onion, out. For each cup, this coffee crusader coffee chains dominating the market avocado, and a secret dressing, Philippe informs me, they use 20-22 grams of offer crazy frappucinos with a whole lot tells us that their first destination of coffee, which is more than the usual 10 of toppings. But that’s not real coffee. choice, Singapore, didn’t quite pan grams served everywhere else. All of our coffee is rated over 80 in the out and hence they decided to break “The demand for coffee is market, that is why we are different.” ground in Bangkok. “Our first outlet in growing in Thailand, but they mainly Philippe manages every aspect of Piman 49, which opened in July of 2015, grow Robusta in the north, which this outlet, from the coffee bar out front helped us show what we were able to is low-grade coffee,” he grimaces. to the kitchen at the back. But this forty- do and deliver in terms of quality of “They also grow Arabica single origin something workaholic admits he can’t coffee and technique, taste and food.” in Chiang Mai, but the production is do everything, which is where he puts We are soon on to our next still quite limited. Di Bella sources for all faith in his Executive ChefSorapol offering ofSnow pea—done al dente— D’ARK a much wider offer of single ‘Tangmo’ Sukpanich—a graduate from with pecorino cheese shavings, and origins from small farmers all over the Le Cordon Bleu Australia—and his head Guanciale cured pork cheek that just world,” he adds. barista Sirichai ‘Bank’ Saebee. melts on our palates. But don’t let the On this note, we dive into our “It’s about teamwork and I have simplicity of the dish fool you, the nutty main dish, a medium rare Flank steak a great team here,” he continues, and flavourful pork and mild cheese with beurre maître d’hotel sauce “perfection and consistency is the most totally wins you over. Simultaneously comprised of shallots, French butter, difficult thing to achieve, but we strive we try the Pan-seared tuna salad and parsley with a side of fries and to do it and the results are rewarding.” comprising organic eggs, lettuce, olives, salad. The dish is not only dangerously interview by Reena Karim-Hallberg red onion, vinegar and wine-infused delicious but extremely rich, all thanks cherry tomatoes and dressing. Philippe to the sauce (a classic French recipe). www.darkoffee.com

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 83 FOOD & DRINK | street eats Crispy Crepe

o matter how many times I go to the Nang Loeng community market, I never Nget bored of the food there. And if you don’t yet know what it is, let me tell you what, how, where, when, and why! Nang Loeng is the name of an old settlement community that dates back more than two centuries. This community has been a long- time trading hub and is rich in its own cultural treasures, such as the Salachalermthani Cinema, traditional chatree dances from the south of Thailand, and even traditional gamelan orchestras (wong pibhart). Even though the era of its glory-days has passed, the community is still breathing, and carrying on in its own way. And it is still famed for its splendid food. On my recent visit to Nang Loeng, I went to try a new (to me) old dish called Khanom Beung Yuan Ya Cham or ‘Grandmother Cham’s Crepe’. (Which is also the name of the restaurant). Once I touched down at the market, I marched through the alley across the way, and just inside on the seasoned stuffing of slightly wonders on display, making my way the mouth of the soi, on the left hand salted shredded coconut with shrimp, towards the old wooden cinema—still side, I saw the sunshine of a wok over a hint of light sweetness from pickled standing strong yet in frail shape, like the orange flame of a burning charcoal turnip, and the creamy taste of tofu. a distinguished elderly man. When I stove. One deep inhalation of the This secret touch in the stuffing reached the left hand corner of the intoxicating aromas and my appetite brought a big smile to my face, as building I turned right into the small was piqued! did my first bite—and that was even Here I saw creamy white bean without adding the homemade, flour batter being poured into the honey-colored, sweet and sour wok by the skillful hands of chef Khun topping that’s made fresh everyday. Oan, who spread it out into the shape Placing a little bit of everything into of the satellite dishes you find on all one bite made my day! eat like the roofs of our Thai houses. I love, If you want to get khanom beung love, loved watching how the food was with egg, Khun Oan will layer an egg Nym made as much as the taste to come. on top of the crepe while cooking it This khanom beung continues to use with the same stuffing—this version the same recipe from Khun Oan’s is wrapped in a square instead of grandmother, who began by making being rolled up, and is less crispy than every main ingredient from scratch. its sister crepe. Both versions have From the blanket of khanom beung their own character and are equally to the stuffing inside, everything is delicious. This is a snack out of which carefully prepared and seasoned you can make a whole meal. I’ll be according to the original recipe. Her back for more for sure! bean flour has a beautifully light and Our roving roadside gourmand Nym fresh fragrance and a soft yellow knows her local grub inside-out and colour that comes from adding natural Khanom Beung Yuan Ya Cham is located thrives on the stories behind the dishes. turmeric essence. on Soi Nakhornsawan 4, Talad Nang Loeng. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in After spreading the crepe blanket It’s open everyday from 10am to 5pm. search of the city’s next delectable morsel into the hot work, Khun Oan layers Khun Oan can also cater for private events.

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CMY

K FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Charcoal Tel: 02 309 3939 No sloppy curries swimming in ghee–only M Krub Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, sophisticated interpretations of tandoor- Picture perfect Cantonese cuisine that Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm grilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls is so beautifully presented you almost www.viehotelbangkok.com of old, and a unique selection of cocktails won’t want to eat it—but that hesitation with intriguing Indian twists. won’t last long. Splurge on the exquisite Savelberg 5F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11 mains but keep room for their wonderful French in flavour and elegance, but Tel: 089 307 1111 Chinese desserts. imbued with influences from the Open daily: 6pm-11pm 96 Mahanakorn Cube Netherlands, the food is befitting the www.charcoalbkk.com Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd. chef’s pedigree and befitting of the Tel: 02 019 8105 restaurant’s refined ambience. Rang Mahal Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, GF, Oriental Residence Bangkok, Wireless Rd. Meaning “palace of colours,” there 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 252 8001 sure is a courtly air about the place, www.facebook.com/MkrubMahanakhon Open: Mon-Sat, 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm down to the refined, delicate food. The www.savelbergth.com proceedings go up a notch when the The Mayflower kebabs and curries come out. Authenticity is the name of the game and 26F, Rembrandt Hotel the menu here is exceptionally satisfying GERMAN 19, Sukhumvit Soi 18 and interesting enough to start a tug-of- Tel: 02 261 7100 war over the Lazy Susan. Open daily: 6pm-11pm Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd. www.rembrandtbkk.com Tel: 02 200 9000 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.dusit.com INTERNATIONAL

FRENCH

Sühring

Sühring German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs, Blu36 and the results are like nothing you’ll see J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain anywhere else. Blu36 10, Yen Akat Soi 3 Peruvian cuisine is explored at the J’Aime by Jean-Michel Tel: 02 287 1799 newly opened resto, with various dishes Lorain Open daily: 6pm-12am influenced by Peru’s long-time Spanish, The classic cuisine lives up to lofty www.facebook.com/suhringshome African, Chinese, Japanese and Italian. expectations, even rising above, thanks Sukhumvit Soi 36 to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the Tel: 02 661 5448 dishes. You might even find yourself trying INDIAN Open daily: 3pm-midnight to re-create certain ones the next day. www.facebook.com/BLU36Bangkok U Sathorn Bangkok Bawarchi 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli The kind of curries you’ve been missing— Char Tel: 02 119 4899 rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. The amount of fantastic French and Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok Mediterranean dishes (with a few www.jaime-bangkok.com four locations. Thai touches) that this busy rooftop BF, Intercontinental Chidlom restaurant can churn out in an evening La Vie 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 means one visit most likely won’t be French creative cuisine takes centre 1F, Ambassador Hotel nearly enough. stage at the elegant new La Vie Sukhumvit Soi11, Tel: 02 253 2394 25F-26F, Hotel Indigo restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, 81 Wireless Rd. Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to Sathorn Soi 1, Sathorn Rd, Tel: 02 677 6249 Tel: 02 207 4999 leverage the hotel’s growing reputation 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm as a top local culinary destination. www.bawarchiindian.com www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

86 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com listings | FOOD & DRINK

GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier, Tel: 0 2261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57, Wireless Rd, Tel: 0 2108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Elements Coconut Terrace An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” the menu is Coconut Terrace divided into an à la carte menu and four This small hotel outlet takes an equally tasting menus, including a delicious Park Society compact menu—five starters, a few vegetarian option. soups, a few fish, and meat mains—and 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Society creates big flavours. Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Excite both your taste buds and eyes Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, Tel: 02 687 9000 with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner 72/4 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm overlooking Lumpini Park and the Tel: 02 688 1000 www.okurabangkok.com amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect Open daily: 11am-11pm for a romantic evening or a friendly www.ramamaplazamenamriverside.com get-together. Sofitel So Bangkok Crepes & Co 2 North Sathorn Rd. The flavours and ingredients take in the Tel: 02 624 0000 entire sweep of the Mediterranean, Open daily: Kitchen 6pm-10:30pm, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Bar 5pm-2am Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat. Red Oven 59/4, Langsuan Soi 1, Tel: 02 652 0208 Eat Me Styled as a World Food Market, this GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 095 251 5233 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a Thonglor Soi 8, Tel: 02 726 9398 Eat Me contemporary twist on buffet spreads. 7F, CentralWorld, Tel: 092 663 1386 Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, On weekends, the restaurant offers an www.facebook.com/crepesnco this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine ranked among the top restaurants in Asia brunch buffet. Dean & Deluca and serves quite possibly the best steak 7F, Sofitel So Bangkok This New York based brand cleaves in town. Trust us! 2 North Sathorn Rd. to its highbred beginnings with an Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 approachable composite of American Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, comfort food, spiced to local levels with Open daily: 3pm-1am Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm the aid of local ingredients. www.eatmerestaurant.com www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 87 FOOD & DRINK | listings

Scarlett The Girl and The Pig MahaNakhon Cube For many Bangkok residents this sky-high No place is more surprising, or more in Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. restaurant, with amazing city views, is keeping with the international theme. Open daily: 10am-late one of those places that forever remains This is a perfect spot for everything from Tel: 02 001 0697 on the “favourite” list. Try their new salt ample brunches, to romantic dates. www.voguelounge.com aged beef main dishes, or choose from 5F, Central Embassy an array of superb daily specials. Tel: 084 194 6629 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G Open daily: 10am-10pm ITALIAN 37F, 188 Silom Rd. www.facebook.com/thegirlandthepig Tel: 02 238 1991 Attico Open daily: 6pm-1am The moment you step off the lift and into www.pullmanbangkokhotelg.com the spacious, rustic-bricked forecourt the ‘cultural acclimation’ begins at this Italian restaurant specializing in the cuisine of Tuscany. Bellissimo! 28F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 489 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 302 3333 Open: Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm The Kitchen Table Sun, dinner service only www.radissonblu.com The Kitchen Table A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, expect good food and a modern ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles. 2F, W Bangkok Hotel, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 Seasonal Tastes Open daily: 6:30am-10:30pm www.whotelsbangkok.com/thekitchen_table Jojo Seasonal Tastes This all-day dining restaurant serves an Vogue Lounge Jojo enticing range of gourmet international This restaurant is established under One of the few outlets proudly flying cuisine in a visually dramatic setting the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the flag for Venetian fare, with imported which features open kitchens and live the menu and kitchen are under the ingredients conjuring authentic flavours cooking stations. direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of of the Veneto. It has a magnificent wine The Westin Grande Sukhumvit his trade and formerly chef at the three- cellar too. 259, Sukhumvit 19 Michelin-starred Caprice restaurant in The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Hong Kong. The menu is small and most Tel: 02 207 7815 Open daily: 6am-11pm dishes are designed as nibbles to be Open daily: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.westingrandesukhumvit.com enjoyed over a few drinks. www.stregisbangkok.com

Kiosk@Thebarkyard Sukhumvit soi 26 Follow us on instagram : kioskcafe 65 Sukhumvit soi 26 (soi Thanpuying), Klongtoey, Bangkok. Tel : 02 259 4089 www.kiosk-cafe.com facebook:kioskcafe

REAL FOOD, REAL LIFE

88 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com listings | FOOD & DRINK

Luce 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok Seated beside the Eastin Grand Sathorn’s 259, Sukhumvit 19 infinity pool, the focus is on authentic Tel: 02 207 8000 Tuscan fare enliven the culinary senses Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm accompanied by a fine selection of wines www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com from Frescobaldi. 14F, Eastin Grand Hotel 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. KOREAN Tel: 02 210 8100 Open daily: noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm Joha www.facebook.com/LuceRestaurantBangkok A cozy little Korean restaurant tucked away in the cool semi-suburban neighborhood of Ari, offering a fresh take on authentic Korean cuisine together with a chic, contemporary interior. 59/2, Soi Phahonyothin 7 Tel: 097 247 9777 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-9pm www.facebook.com/Johakoreanrestaurant

MIDDLE EASTERN

Volti

Volti Ristorante & Bar This spacious riverside restaurant offers authentic modern Italian dishes, accompanied by great live music, with indoor and outdoor seating. Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok Arabesque 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 Arabesque Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm The menu is as pure Egyptian as the www.shangri-la.com/bangkok fixtures. Includes Middle Eastern favourites such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), as well as JAPANESE dishes you may not recognize. 68/1, Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd. Benihana Tel: 02 656 9440-1 At the centre of every table is a hot grill, Open daily: noon-midnight where a chef cooks for you, stimulating www.arabesquebangkok.com appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the fried rice. MEXICAN Avani Atrium Bangkok 1880 Petchaburi Rd. Mexicano Tel: 02 718 2023 Formerly Señor Pico, Bangkok’s original Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Mexican restaurant, this new incarnation www.avanihotels.com builds on a foundation of outstanding Mexican cuisine. Kisso 2F, Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok Combining a modern mastery of 19, Sukhumvit Soi 18 time-honoured customs in a stylish and Tel: 02 261 7100 convivial setting, this is one of the top Open daily: 5pm-12am places for outstanding Japanese cuisine Sat brunch 12pm-3pm in Bangkok. www.facebook.com/mexicanobkk

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 89 FOOD & DRINK | listings

La Monita Taqueria SPANISH/LATIN Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel If you’re looking for classic, affordable, 567 Ratchaprarop Rd. Mexican fare that still packs some Barcelona Gaudí Tel: 02 625 1234 serious fireworks, then check out any The chef and founding partners are proud Open daily: 5pm-11pm of La Monita’s three downtown locales. of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows www.centarahotelsresorts.com Load up on guacamole, burritos, fajitas, in the incredible tapas on the menu, from quesadillas, and soft corn tacos, all prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the washed down with some wonderfully traditional Sunday paella.Mucho gusto! potent margaritas. Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 9581 Tel: 02 661 7410 GF, Siam Paragon, Tel: 02 650 9581 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-11pm 7F, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6238 www.barcelona-thai.com www.lamonita.com THAI SEAFOOD Baan Rub Rong One of the few restaurants in the area Ruen Urai that we can confidently say is worth the effort to track down. A plainly attired, Ruen Urai affordable bastion of very good Thai Set in the former residence of the food, made the old-fashioned way. herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, 8 Soi Mooban Seri Villa (Srinakarin Soi 55) Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with Tel: 02 185 6029 medicinal qualities, while delivering Open: 10am-10pm refined Thai fare using the finest fresh www.baanrubrong.com ingredients. The Rose Hotel, Raw Bar 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Raw Bar Open daily: noon-11pm Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s www.ruen-urai.com all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends. VIETNAMESE 440/9, Sukhumvit 55 Tel: 02 713 8335 Le Dalat Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight The newest branch of stately Le Dalat www.facebook.com/TheRawBarBKK finds it in unusual territory—a high-end shopping mall—but its fresh Vietnamese Laem Charoen Seafood Blue Elephant fare is still as impeccable as ever. Offering a wide range of other seafood 7F, The Emquartier Mall delicacies—all straight from the Blue Elephant 651 Sukhumvit Rd,Tel: 02 269 1000 sea—this seafood restaurant has been A wildly successful brand since it was first Open daily: 10am-10pm growing in stature while staying true to established in 1980, this restaurant (and 57, Soi Prasarnmitr Sukhumvit 23, its original roots. Reliability and customer cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic Tel: 02 259 9593 satisfaction has made it one of the best mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes Open daily: Lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, seafood restaurants in town. a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but Dinner 5:30pm-10:30pm 4F, Siam Paragon also shares her heritage with every dish. www.ledalatbkk.com 991, Rama 1 Rd. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 610 9244 Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 10am-10pm Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, VEGETARIAN www.laemcharoenseafood.com 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com Broccoli Revolution The Oyster Bar The brick-walled warehouse turned You know a restaurant takes seafood Chili Hip veg-friendly restaurant features a menu seriously when several pages of the Wide, unobstructed skyline views from full of bright veggie bites that could pull menu are devoted entirely to oysters. an open-air perch over Pratunam, and in the most stubborn carnivore. 395, Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 a menu consisting mostly of authentic 899 Sukhumvit Rd. (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 212 4809 Thai and Asian inspired flavours. There is Tel: 02 662 5001 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-11pm, Sun, noon-10pm almost no covered seating, so bear that Open daily: 7am-10pm www.theoysterbarbangkok.com in mind when the rains come. Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

90 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE |

Beer, burgers and babes—it all spells Hooters

92 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com | NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE give a hoot After its Bangkok debut last year, the renowned American-style restaurant and sports bar HOOTERS—famous for its chicken wings, beer, and zaftig female staff—is celebrating its first birthday on SEPTEMBER 15th at its Sukhumvit 15 location, on the ground floor of the FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON (not to be confused with the Hooters Bangkok outlet located across from Nana Plaza). The double-barrelled anniversary party will be hosted by celebrity emcee Niwatawong Anuwat, with special guest Aum Lakkana, the Hooters Thailand brand ambassador. Expect great music from DJ Mikey Mike, and bouncey dance performances by the Hooter Girls crew. Doors are open to public at 7pm, and entry is free.

a month behind bars Bars in Bangkok continue popping up like mushrooms, and this past month has been no exception. BEER BELLY is the latest member of the 72 COURTYARD (Sukhumvit Soi 55) family, and this spacious beer hall offers tons of craft and draft beer, pub fare, live music, and lots of games—chess, Jenga, pool, ping pong… you name it!—to make sure customers interact and have fun. Not enough for ya? Then check out the 90s inspired SPEC BAR located in the ACMEN COMPLEX (between Ekkamai Sois 13 and 15). This seductively nostalgic hot-spot offers up Asian fusion food paired with a wide selection of beers, whiskeys, and cocktails.

the hair keeps growing By the time you read this the second branch ofHAIR OF THE DOG craft beer bar will have opened its doors. Located near the Phrom Phong BTS station (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1), this new space promises to be slightly larger, but will still maintain the bare bones aesthetic of the original location in MAHATUN PLAZA—polished concrete floors and walls, offset by clinical stainless steel countertops. There will also be over a dozen rotating beers on tap, and an even larger selection of rare brews from around the world.

battling brewmasters Beer enthusiasts take note… the 1st SIAMESE CRAFT BEER COMPETITION is set to take place at Chinatown’s CHO WHY art space (Soi Nana 17, Pom Prap Sattru Phai) on SEPTEMBER 3rd. This contest is sponsored by the folk from Craft Brewery Is not a Crime, with the aim of developing the burgeoning craft beer industry in Thailand. The contest categories include competitions for the best brewers of the following types of beers: Pale Ale, IPA, Amber- Red Ale, Stout, D.IPA, Stout, Weizen (wheat beer), and more. The contest has no registration fee, and will begin at 3pm. Look up “craft brewery is not a crime” on Facebook for more info.

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 93 NIGHTLIFE | review

Rarb Unreal cocktails in an unlikely corner bar

angkok boasts bars specialising Fuck My Farm, Fake Wedding, etc. sweet Italian vermouth and gin that in bourbon, gin, whisky, and But the drinks change often, so it’s typically appeals to fans of the classics. even mezcal. So it should be best to ask the staff about the current Barrel-aging only marks a starting Bclear the drinking scene here has specials. Or check their Instagram point, though. Karn also makes his own reached pretty rarefied heights. Plus, (@rarbbyescapade), where, as he does limoncello, umeshu, and sangria. The if all the recent events headlined by for Escapade’s one-off shakes, co- umeshu, the 20-month aged version visiting bartenders are any indication, founder and barman Karn Liangsrisuk in particular (B550), is a rare find. With the city might soon stand shoulder- announces limited-edition drinks. a hint of spice on the nose, it finishes to-shoulder with some of Asia’s heavy Karn is a bit of a mad scientist, a with a beautiful balance of sweetness hitters, like Singapore, Hong Kong, soft-spoken but zealous experimenter and tartness. And while the umeshu is and Shanghai. But if the variety of who is as dead-set about perfectionism immaculate, the sangria truly reveals spirit-focused enclaves and guest as he is doing things his own way. the barman’s remarkable attention appearances aren’t proof enough, Rather than placing glasses in the to detail. It’s complexly layered, an consider the fact that the Old Town, fridge, where he believes they could infusion enriched by spare parts from a quarter of the capital oversupplied be contaminated by foreign smells, he Rarb’s arsenal of homemade products: with anything-goes nightclubs, beer chills them with chunked ice that he a spoonful of homemade maraschino buffets, and booze bucket bars, now pitches after one use. He also spritzes cherry liqueur, some brandy informed claims its very own craft cocktail glasses with dry vermouth to remove by lemongrass and snow pear, a touch mecca, Rarb. unwanted odours and tastes. Beyond of lavender. Run by the people behind bar-keeping tics, however, Karn gets Celebrate, Bangkokians! The Old Escapade Burgers & Shakes, Rarb sits serious. Town hasn’t had a cocktail bar this in a hipster-chic, glass-encased nook On the counter rests a small barrel exciting… well,ever . by Craig Sauers on Phra Arthit Road, across from full of Negroni he has aged since the Escapade and in front of Sheepshank. day Rarb opened. The finished product The paper menu centres on five has an edge, thanks to the flavours of Rarb signature drinks (B320-340) scrawled Menorca’s cult gin Xoriguer and the 47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. in sharpie pen. Each has a name, oak barrel (aged Negroni, B450). In a Tel: 08 1406 3773 meant to represent its qualities, that slightly smaller barrel on the shelf is Open: Tues-Sun, 5pm-midnight borders on absurd—Lovely Whore, an aged Martinez (B450), a blend of instagram.com/rarbbyescapade

94 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com Tranquil Tropical Getaways at The Oriental Kwai Resort Nestled amongst the exquisite greenery of Kanchanaburi’s tropical forested landscape, The Oriental Kwai Resort is the perfect getaway retreat.

Cozy cottages sit serenely in a tranquil tropical Close and Convenient garden, providing guests with plenty of opportunity to Located just 150 km from Bangkok, the resort is easily relax amidst the peaceful natural surroundings. accessible by taxi and minivan.Once here, the our bike Meanwhile the resort’s riverfront restaurant offers services are available for guests wanting to explore visitors all-day dining deals complete with panoramic the town, and long-tail boats can also be arranged for views of the majestic River Kwai. scenic visits to the famous River Kwai Bridge. In addition, the Oriental Kwai Resort is a mere twenty minutes’ drive to either Kanchanaburi town or the world-famous Erawan waterfalls—making it a very central location for sightseeing in the area.

Book your holiday getaway now, and discover Kanchanaburi with us!

Oriental Kwai Resort | 194/5, Moo 1, Amphur Muang Tambon Ladya, Kanchanaburi Tel: 03 458 8168 | www.orientalkwai.com NIGHTLIFE | imbibe

Opening Pandora’s Box The secrets to Char’s superbly smoked cocktail revealed

Considering Napaphat Juengdeesomjai’s When Beer gets to work, things start normally enough. nickname, it certainly sounds like she’s in She muddles Angostura bitters and sugar, preps some the right industry. But ‘Beer’, as her friends orange peel for later use, and pulls out a bottle of Chivas call her, isn’t filling pints from the tap. She’s crafting Regal Extra. There’s a good reason she prefers this rich cracking cocktails with smart, sophisticated twists at blend of Scotch whiskies for Pandora’s Box. Chivas Regal Bangkok’s buzziest new rooftop bar and restaurant, Extra uses malt whiskies matured in ex-Oloroso sherry fill Char, located on the 25th and 26th floors of the casks, imparting the whisky with a sweet fruitiness on the Hotel Indigo. nose and complex tasting notes that round out the finish. A self-professed fan of the classics, Beer took her How that lightly smoky flavour plays in to Pandora’s Box talents to even higher grounds with the support of becomes clear when Beer reveals a couple of the special Francesco Moretti, the renowned barman who helped tools in her arsenal—a smoke machine and a glass dome. design Char’s signature cocktails. “We like to make After Beer has mixed the sugar and bitters with Chivas drinks that get our guests talking,” she says, whilst Regal Extra, she twists orange peel over the mix, runs showing off a house-made, bubble gum-pink bottle of it around the rim of the glass to lend some wonderful strawberry-infused vodka. Seeing people enjoying and zesty aroma, and drops a maraschino cherry steeped in talking about her cocktails is “the best part of my job,” whisky into the drink. Then she covers the cocktail with she adds. the glass dome and places applewood bourbon chips in Beer then reveals her favourite drink right now: a little cylinder, igniting them. Suddenly smoke plumes Pandora’s Box, Char’s playful spinoff of the world’s like white clouds, surrounding the amber drink. “I love most popular cocktail, the Old Fashioned. The cocktail the way this smells,” she says, removing the glass dome, combines elements of time-honoured and cutting-edge the perfume filling the air. The aromatic smoke pulls out trends. For the young bartender, it hits all the right notes. the underlying tasting notes in the Chivas Regal Extra—

96 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com imbibe | NIGHTLIFE

ripe pear sweetness amplified by the whisky’s complex Vietnamese, and US Embassy grounds rimmed by rows of luscious aroma. It’s a tantalising match. high-rises, with Lumpini Park gleaming green and gold on Between the boozy cherry and the applewood smoke, the horizon. As the late-day breeze blows in and the sun Pandora’s Box gives the Old Fashioned new dimensions. settles behind the silvery sky towers, the glittering lights And this shift from the norm underscores the effect that of Bangkok’s urban skyline come into view. For Beer, as the Char team has achieved at this lively rooftop bar well as the packed crowds that fill the deck from 5pm hovering high above Wireless Road. The al fresco bar onward each evening, there’s no better way to recognise overlooks leafy Embassy Row, perched directly across the beauty and charm of the Thai capital than with some the road from the US Ambassador’s residence. From the of Char’s brilliant cocktails at sundown, and on into the deck, the landscape below looks incredible—Dutch, vibrant night.

Pandora’s Box · Wet down a sugar cube with 3 dashes of Angostura bitters over a rocks glass · Rotate the glass whilst stirring, to line it with the sugar and bitters · Add a single large piece of rock ice · Pour in 50ml of Chivas Regal Extra and stir well to combine · Drop in a bourbon- or whisky-soaked maraschino cherry · Place Applewood chips in a smoke machine; cover the glass with a mason glass dome · Light the chips, filling the glass dome with their smoke for about one minute · Release the cover, breathe in the aroma, and enjoy!

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 97 NIGHTLIFE | connoisseur corner Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott

ine appreciation in Bangkok, among Thais and expat residents alike, has been flourishing over the past few years, and despite the heavy Wtaxes imposed on reds, whites, and sparklings, the demand for high quality vino continues to grow. As a result, the number of specially curated wine tasting events and wine pairing dinners across town has increased substantially. This month there are several events that every oenophile should know about. From September 8th to 11th, at Bo.lan Restaurant (24, Sukhumvit Soi 53 Alley), a very unique wine and cuisine pairing night gets underway as three women—all leaders in their fields—come together to curate an event full of passion, skill and knowledge. Be treated to freshly cooked Thai food that concentrates on local, organic, and seasonal produce, prepared by Duangporn ‘Bo’ The Godfather, Crystal Park Songvisava (voted Best Female Chef in Asia 2013), accompanied by a small band. The wines—white, red, using interpretations and rose—are available by the bottle but also by the of century old recipes. glass, giving customers a unique opportunity to try stellar The meal will be paired vintages such as the Gigonda, Les Reinages 2011 (B840/ with new latitude wines B4,200) that was available the evening I visited. The from Thailand’s own cheeses, priced in 50g portions, are also top-notch—don’t Gran Monte vineyard, miss trying the Fourme Au Sauternes (blue cheese) and the where Nikki Lohitnavy deep orange Mimolette Françoise (pressed cheese). (pictured, left)—the first An upcoming daytime event, organized byWine and only fully-qualified Garage, will be the Strings & Grapes: Spiritual taking

Photo Nipon by Riabriang Thai winemaker—creates place on September 11th at the Neilson Hays Library (195 the family’s award-winning Surawong Rd). The matinee program will feature “spiritual vintages. Pairing the wines and food will be Benjawan music” pieces by Mozart, Beethoven, Sibelius, Fauré and ‘Ben’ Wisootsat, the woman behind Bangkok-based Fin Ravel and will be performed by the Bangkok Chamber Wines. It’s well known that pairing wine with Thai food Orchestra, and conducted by Laurent Couson. Tickets are can be challenging, which is why a detailed knowledge of B800, which includes a glass of wine, and the event starts the cuisine and the wine is definitely required. The dinners at 5pm. Call 02 233 1731 to reserve a spot. run from 6pm to 10:30pm, and you can reserve a table by Finally, wine lovers in the north end of the city will calling 02 260 2962 or visitingwww.bolan.co.th . be happy to know that Godfather Wine Boutique, the Another notable series of wine dinners are those specialty wine store located on the 5th floor ofCentral being organized by locally based wine importers Gfour Embassy, has just opened a 2nd branch at Crystal Park, Fine Wines. From September 27th to October 1st, at the sprawling lifestyle shopping mall on Praditmanutham Jojo restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel (159 Ratchadamri Rd (Ladphrao). The wood-cellar themed interior is Rd), two-Michelin star Chef Ciccio Sultano, from Duomo inspired by the classic 1972 filmThe Godfather, with Restaurant in Italy, will be preparing amazing 5-course dimmed lighting and dark wood finishing similar to the Sicilian baroque style dinners. For more information flagship store. The majority of wines sold here have been contact: www.gfour.co.th. scored between 90 points to 100 points from the Wine Meanwhile, events running on a continuous basis Spectator and Robert Parker rating systems. Meanwhile include Tuesday wine nights at the Diplomat Bar at the knowledgeable staff can answer all your questions the Conrad Bangkok hotel (87 Wireless Rd). Here the about wines, whiskies, and cigars. This new outlet is semi- theme, for the next few months anyway, is 100 percent integrated with Brassiere by Water Library restaurant, and French; meaning superb French wines, delectable French products purchased at the shop can be consumed in the cheeses, and French chanteuse performing French songs restaurant without corkage fees.

98 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE | live music The Rock Philosopher By Dave Crimaldi

his month, September 9th marks a return of Popscene, the event promoter that bestowed Listen Up! local music fans with such mythically exceptional Tshows as Thee Oh Sees at Cosmic Cafe. This time around If you found we’ve got Chicago native actor/songstressHaroula Rose yourself suffocating gracing the pavement of Whiteline (Silom Soi 8). While I in the stifling heat cannot really judge worthiness of folk music from studio and humidity of recordings, the ‘PopMatters 20 Questions’ was intriguing: Southeast Asia, she identifies both with the serial killing protagonist of and were seeking Bret Easton Ellis’ dystopian fantasy American Psycho, and the rustic comfort claims psychic ability—so far she‘s ticking all the boxes. It’s of the American B300 on the door, with local support by John Will Sail and Mid-West, look King Kong & The Chums. no further then The following evening, September 10th, Get A Life After The Oil Rush, Denim presents Hope The Flower, Lasthoper, and The the recently released EP by Ryan Holweger. Ryan, a Front Row at the slightly off-the-beaten-trackBrownstone Minnesota transplant to Bangkok, shares his solemn Studio (1395, Sukhumvit Soi 77, BTS On Nut station). Hope hymns for lonesome souls, shaped by desolate, open The Flower is a faithful representative of this city’s fanatical spaces. Reflect on the stirring winds, smoke billowing post-rock community (check out the Newlights Production chimneys, and snow-covered rooftops while nursing record label page on Facebook). a cold Leo by the pool. This is home cooked country music with a side of mashed potatoes. The title track, “After The Oil Rush”, seems like something straight off the Brokeback Mountain soundtrack. In fact, all the songs have the kind of familiarity that one has with a favourite sweater or family pet. Within the tradition of great American music for the common folk there is the songwriter, the musicians, and an unspoken character. If you listen carefully you might just hear him between the notes. You can purchase a copy of After the Oil Rush, released by Other Road Records, at the EP release party at Fatty’s Bar and Diner (598/66 Asoke- Dindaeng Rd) on September 3rd. Ryan will perform, along with special guests John Will Sail and Matthew Fischer. www.facebook.com/otherroadrecords

Vivid Dream and Taiwan’s visiting indie rock flag bearers Manic Sheep. Meanwhile, at Speakerbox (located in the Ratchada Train Night Market) Count The Thief and The Ginkz are playing—two bands pushing the boundaries of progressive rock music without alienating short- attentioned audiences. Finally, atBrownstone Studio, Austin’s ownMy Empty Phantom delivers complex

Photo of The Ginks Dave Crimaldi by ambient soundscapes as a one man band utilizing looping technology. Expect to see a guy jumping from instrument September 17th is a Saturday triple suicide mission. to instrument at the beginning of each piece. The show First off, Seen Scene Space brings usPow Fest #2 at starts at 7pm (B200, includes a drink). Rockademy (120/8, Sukhumvit Soi 26) with a smorgasbord of performances. Of the eight bands on the roster I’ll To read more about Bangkok’s music scene, be most keen to see Comet Records’ dream wave band visit The Rock Philosopher at davecrimaldi.weebly.com

100 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com club report | NIGHTLIFE The DJ Booth By Pongphop Songsiriarcha

angkok’s DJ scene is loud and proud, and Amsterdam, then on Friday get ready for headliner DJ September promises to be another busy month for Snake. Ticket prices range from B1,500 to B1,800, with club goers and party people of every persuasion. special VIP passes priced at B2,800. Visit B On September 1st the Dutch EDM duo Glow In www.zaapparty.com for more info. The Dark—Albert Harvey and Kevin Ramos—arrives in Later in the month the ‘EPIC Trance Series’ continues Bangkok for a gig at Levels (Sukhumvit Soi 11). The duo, at Live RCA. On September 16th, starting from 9pm, Dutch who released their debut single ‘Electronic Life’ in 2010, trance and house music producer and DJ Mark Sixma will became famous for their collaboration with David Guetta headline the party, playing the finest in progressive trance. on the huge hit “Ain’t a Party”. This event, however, He has toured globally alongside such performers as Armin will indeed be a party, and things get underway at 9pm. van Buuren, Ferry Corsten, and W&W, but this night the Tickets are B350, including 1 drink. spotlight is on him alone.

Zimmer DJ Snake Dash Berlin

On September 2nd the recently opened Space999 Live RCA is also the spot for the city’s best throwdown (Sukhumvit Soi 15) is hosting aSingles Masquerade Party, on September 22nd when Hype Events brings London- starting at 8pm and running till 2am (at least). Prepare based Stööki Sound to Bangkok for the very first time. for a night of mystery with other masked marauders, and Comprised of DJs Lukey and Jelacee, this UK duo creates move to the tech-house sounds of DJs Prosonus, and truly unique sounds, blending their respective musical Adiero+Nukier. Admission is free, with drink specials from backgrounds in UK Bass, Grime, and Trap. The party kicks 8pm till 10pm, and complimentary snacks at 10pm. off at 9pm and definitely will not finish till late. Check out www.space999.com all this month’s Live RCA events at On September 8, trailblazing DJ and producer Zimmer www.facebook.com/livercabangkok. (Roche Musique) will be appearing at Live RCA (Rama 9 Finally, one of the city’s most anticipated water Rd). Raised both in France and California, this multi-talented festivals—Waterzonic—returns to Bangkok, running musical stylist is best known for his tropical twists on house from September 30th to October 1st. This will be the and disco favourites, and he brings with him enough good 3rd installment of Bangkok’s wettest and wildest EDM vibes to last the whole night long. He’s also been making a festival, and the 2-day event will be staged this year at name through his blog-hit remixes, but catching him doing a SCG Stadium in Muangthong Thani. Headliners include live DJ set is not to be missed. The party starts at 9pm. Dash Berlin, a big name in EDM, trance and electro house If you can’t make the trip to Koh Phangan this genres, with its famous tracks like “Till the Sky Falls Down”, month, check out the Fullmoon Party at Asiatique, The “When You Were Around”, and “Waiting”, andFedde Le Riverfront, which runs from September 8th to the 9th. Grand, a Dutch house DJ and producer who rose to fame This dance music festival, presented by Sangsom Thai with the single “Put Your Hands Up For Detroit”. The 2-day whiskey, features eight different DJs performing over pass tickets start from B2,900 for general admission, and the course of two consecutive evenings. On Thursday from B4,500 for special VIP packages. night check out headliners Yellow Claw, a DJ team from www.waterzonic.com

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 101 NIGHTLIFE | listings

BARS Craft ‘N Roll Café J. Boroski Mixology Located a bit out of the way—almost in A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist 22 Steps Bar Nonthaburi—this unique venue is worth Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to A great place to unwind, enjoying a a visit if you are interested to see what reflect a customer’s specifications or, if cocktail or fine cigar while watching the local Thai craft beer brewers are capable you’re lucky, according to his own whims. world go by. Enjoy happy hour from 5pm of producing. And the results will no Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the to 9pm every day, and don’t miss Ladies’ doubt have you returning soon for more. exact location. night on Wednesday which offers women 115, Soi Charan Sanitwong 95/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) two hours of free-flow sparkling wine Tel: 098 260 9292 Tel: 02 712 6025 from 9pm-11pm. Open daily: 5pm-midnight Open daily: 7pm-2am Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. www.craftnroll.net www.josephboroski.com Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 3pm-11:30pm Smalls www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok Decorated with vintage furniture and art, giving it a true bohemian vibe, this well- About Eatery loved, three-storey neighbourhood drink The bottom line is this: if you are a wine spot offers a wide selection of beers, lover, you’ll love this place. It’s a warm wines, and hard-to-find liquors, as well and welcoming bar and restaurant as, the occasional live jazz band. that specializes in Mediterranean fare 186/3, Suan Phlu Soi 1 and artisan wines made using natural, Tel: 095 585 1398 biodynamic, and organic methods. Open: Wed-Mon, 7pm-2am GF, Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21, Soi 3 Diplomat Bar www.facebook.com/smallsbkk Tel: 081 920 0740 Open: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm, Diplomat Bar The Friese-Greene Club Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am This elegant jazz bar is located on the This member’s only club (guests are www.abouteatery.com ground floor of the Conrad Bangkok always welcome), screens films in a tiny hotel. Here guests can unwind in chic cinema on the second floor and serves surroundings, and choose from a diverse reasonably priced drinks on the first. selection of beverages, including fine 259/6, Sukhumvit Soi 22 wines and specialty cocktails. Tel: 087 000 0795, 080 733 8438 87 Wireless Rd. Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 690 9999 www.fgc.in.th Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am, Fri-Sat, 7am-2am www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Evil Man Blues Badmotel This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and Badmotel fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music This three-floor joint is minimally by renowned jazz musicians creates a decorated and painted bright white. The close-knit vibe. ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined GF, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 garden make a pleasant spot to sip on Tel: 02 392 7740 the venue’s “Creation Cocktails”. Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am 331/4-5, Sukhumvit Soi 55 www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues Tel: 02 712 7288 Open daily: 5pm-1am House of Beers (HOBS) www.facebook.com/badmotel This Belgian-leaning chain of bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat Touché Hombre Brew beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden See and be seen at any one of the to esoteric specials like Kwak. The Touché Hombre city’s three Brew. All have a healthy list refreshments are augmented by Belgian This hugely popular Mexican bar and of foreign brews and cider on tap. A fries and tapas-style bar snacks. restaurant offers curious customers a beerlover’s dream. Penny’s Balcony, Tel: 02 392 3513 chance to sample the finest mezcals 1F, Seen Space, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), 1F, Groove at CentralWorld, Tel: 02 613 1322 and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Tel: 02 185 2366 La Villa Aree, Tel: 02 613 0572 Mexican-inspired dishes. Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 185 2366 Aree Garden, Tel: 02 617 1600 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Asiatique, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. INT Intersect, Tel: 02 682 6400 Tel: 02 392 7760 Tel: 02 108 8744 Nawamin Festival Walk, Tel: 02 907 0934-5 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.brewbkk.com www.houseofbeers.com www.touchehombre.com

102 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com listings | NIGHTLIFE

U.N.C.L.E. Woobar Barley Bistro One of the most enticing small bars in Chic and low-lit without being cold or Check out the open-air rooftop, littered Bangkok, a hideaway that exudes class, inaccessible, and spacious enough to find with fans, bean bags, and funky barley where you can get cocktails made to your a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for exact specifications. for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release some post-work/pre-club cocktails. Sathorn Soi 12 or, better yet, a weekend party. 4F, Food Channel, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 0406 GF, W Bangkok Tel: 087 033 3919 Open: Tue-Sat, 6pm-1am 106 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-late www.avunculus.com Tel: 02 344 4131 www.barleybistro.com Open daily: 9am-12am www.wbangkok.com

ROOFTOP / SKY BARS

Whisgars Char

Whisgars Char Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of Located on the 26th floor of the Hotel this rapidly expanding Bangkok empire. Indigo, visitors here can enjoy a beautiful Each outlet is a little different, but all view of Bangkok’s lively downtown cater to the finer things in life. core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs 16, Sukhumvit Soi 23, Tel: 02 664 4252 and couches are comfortable, and the 981, Silom Rd., Tel: 02 630 1997 cocktails are delicious. 2F, Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 8157 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. www.whisgars.com Above Eleven Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Wishbeer Home Bar Above Eleven www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok It’s back and bigger than ever with A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with new digs on the corner of Sukhumvit beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden Cloud 47 67, where, though it remains a work in deck bar, an impressive cocktail list, and A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in Bangkok’s progress, it already welcomes satisfied an electro soundtrack. bustling business district, that turns into beer drinkers by the dozens each night. 33F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel a purple and blue neon fantasy at night. Sukhumvit Soi 67 38/8, Sukhumvit Soi 11 United Center, Silom Rd. Tel : 02 392 1403 Tel: 02 207 9300 Tel: 091 889 9600 Open daily: 7:30am-1am Open daily: 6pm-2am Open daily: 11am-1am www.wishbeerhomebar.com www.aboveeleven.com www.cloud47bangkok.com

LE DALAT Traditional Vietnamese Cuisine by MADAME LY 57 Soi Prasarnmitr 7th Fl.,The Emquartier 4th Fl.,The Emporium Sukhumvit 23 Rd. Sukhumvit Rd. Sukhumvit Rd. www.ledalatbkk.com open 11.30-14.30, 17.30-22.30 open 10.00-22.00 open 10.00-22.00 Le Dalat Restaurant Tel. 02 259 9593 Tel. 02 003 6267 Tel. 02 664 7525

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 103 NIGHTLIFE | listings

Moon Bar & Vertigo Cé La Vi RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel Cé La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Tel: 081 645 1166 offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Bangkok) is one of Bangkok’s top nightlife Open daily: 8pm-2am Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All venues, a vast and glittering club with www.onyxbangkok.com are perfect spots for honeymooners. skyscraper ceilings and a long window 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok that affords an exceptional view. Titanium Club & Ice Bar 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex With congenial hostesses clad in ao dai, Tel: 02 679 1200 98 North Sathorn Rd. a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 108 2000 nightly, and over 90 varieties of vodka, www.banyantree.com Open daily: 12pm-late it’s definitely a fun night out. www.celavi.com Sukhumvit Soi 22 Red Sky Bar Tel: 02 258 3758 One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop Levels Open: 6pm-1:30am bars, perched dramatically above the One of the most reliably busy nightclubs www.titanium-club.com heart of the city, offers light bites and in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of drinks such as the signature Imperial resident expats, stylish Thai party Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers PUBS 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention that can’t get enough. Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Mulligan’s Irish Bar Tel: 02 100 6255 Tel: 082 308 3246 A Khao San institution that draws hordes Open Daily: 4pm-1am Open daily: 9pm-3am of young locals and a more refined (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.facebook.com/levelsclub foreign crowd than the norm in the www.centarahotelsresorts.com neighbourhood, thanks to great live Mixx Discotheque music and day-long happy hour deals. St. Regis Bar Classier than most of Bangkok’s after- 265 Khao San Rd. This rectangular venue overlooks the hour clubs, a two-room affair decked out Tel: 02 629 4477 Royal Bangkok Sports Club through with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing Open daily: 24 hours a large plate-glass window, a lovely sheets that lend it a desert tent feel. www.mulligansthailand.com spot at sunset, even better on Sunday President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. afternoons, when you can spy on horse Tel: 02 656 0382 The Australian races with a fine malt whiskey in hand. Open daily: 10pm-late A wide and bright Australian import, St. Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd. www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok complete with beer schooners as well Tel: 02 207 7777 as bottles from Coopers and VB, live Open: Mon-Fri, 10am-1am, Sat-Sun, 10am-2am rugby matches on TV, and rock bands www.stregis.com on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 ThreeSixty Lounge Tel: 02 651 0800 Go sky high in style above Chao Phraya Open daily: 9am-late River at Millennium Hilton Bangkok’s www.theaustralianbkk.com grand rooftop venue. With 360° panorama vistas of the city, this lounge spot truly The Black Swan stands out from other sky bars in the city. Narz An amber-lit favourite that offers myriad 31-32F, Millennium Hilton Bangkok drink deals and spectacular Sunday 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Narz roasts. Now in its new location. Tel: 02 442 2000 Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level 19/32, Soi Sukhumvit 19 Open daily: 5pm-1am club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance Tel: 02 229 4542 www.bangkok.hilton.com crowd moving for over two decades with Open daily: 8am-late their wild party atmosphere. Perfect www.blackswanbangkok.com for groups who want to make it their CLUBS playground for the night. The Drunken Leprechaun 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 This heavily Irish-themed establishment Beam Tel: 02 258 4805 offers delicious pub grub and drinks An honest club with a communal vibe, Open daily: 9pm-3am from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The plus great music and one of the best www.narzclubbangkok.net nightly entertainment includes weekly sound systems. You can be yourself pub quizzes, generous happy hours and here—dance like you mean it, soak up Onyx complimentary snacks. the vibe, then spread the love. An upscale nightclub borrowing from Four Points by Sheraton 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 the futuristic interiors of other outlets 4 Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 392 7750 in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, Tel: 02 309 3255 Open: Wed-Sat, 9pm-late with most of the action confined to the Open daily: 10am-1am www.beamclub.com ground floor. www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

104 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com listings | NIGHTLIFE

The Huntsman 33/28, Sukhumvit Soi 11 for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots Tel: 090 626 7655 that runs into the early morning. A little of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, bit far from downtown, but definitely like no other. Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight worth the trip to get there. GF, The Landmark Hotel www.apotekabkk.com 164, Soi Sun Wichai 14 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 318 1415 Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 4pm-2am Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.parkingtoys.in.th www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub Queen Bee The Pickled Liver A great place to hang out and meet up Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and with friends while enjoying great live more make this landmark pub—now music. Come play some pool and check in its second incarnation—a perennial out Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues favourite with locals. Adhere the 13th Blues Bar cover bands. Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 (opposite Maxim’s Hotel) Adhere the 13th Blues Bar Tel: 092 446 4234 Tel: 02 651 1114 One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest Open: 10:30am-2am Open daily: 3pm-late hangouts, and nothing more than an www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok www.thepickledliver.com aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, SpeakerBox The Sportsman Motown, and originals. Enjoy local and imported craft beers while Whether you want to shoot some pool, 13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) kicking back and checking out some of throw darts, or just sit back and watch Open daily: 6pm-midnight Bangkok’s best local indie bands at the your favourite team on TV, it’s all here at Tel: 089 769 4613 compact, casual semi-open air venue. one of the best sports bars in Bangkok. www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar Ratchada Train Market (Rot Fai) GF, Trendy Condo 322/289 Soi Yu Charoen Sukhumvit Soi 13 Brown Sugar Tel: 084 662 6642 Tel: 02 168 7241 Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A Open: Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-2am Open daily: 8am-2am restaurant and coffee house by day that www.facebook.com/speakerboxbkk www.sportsbarbangkok.com morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime SoulBar draw crowds by night. Metalwork, modern art, and live LIVE MUSIC 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Motown, funk, blues, and soul form Tel: 089 499 1378 the backbone of this stark, yet cool, Apoteka Open daily: 6pm-1am shophouse turned small bar on the edge Built to emulate a 19th-century www.brownsugarbangkok.com of Chinatown’s art district. apothecary, this place has an old-school 945 Charoenkrung Rd. feel, an awesome line-up of live music, Parking Toys Tel: 083 092 2266 and a drink selection including beer and A spacious garage-style venue, filled to Open daily: 6pm-1am custom craft cocktails. the brim with random antiques, known www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 105 LIFESTYLE |

Metropole, The Crest Collection“I’m A Durian” by The ice creamAscott treatLimited from the Issaya La Pâtisserie Pastry Cookbook

106 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com | LIFESTYLE LIFE+STYLE living large Thinking of upgrading your current digs? Or perhaps you’re a visitor who needs something extra comfortable for an extended stay in Bangkok? If so, an elegant new service apartment just threw open its doors to welcome you. METROPOLE, THE CREST COLLECTION by The Ascott Limited, is situated in the trendy Thong Lo area, the city’s main business and entertainment district, and the 116 fully furnished, spacious apartments offer a choice of studio or one-bedroom units, with facilities such as swimming pool, gym, al fresco dining, and a resident’s lounge. It’s luxury living with an address to impress. www.the-ascott.com

the science of strength After the huge success of their first health club and fitness facility on Sukhumvit Soi 31, THE LAB recently launched its brand new space in the Silom area, located on the 2nd floor of theNST ONE BUILDING close to Sala Daeng BTS station and Si Lom MRT station. This newest branch offers fitness classes and facilities with personal trainers and professional instructors… and a whole lotta kettlebells. The various training programs promise to burn fat, build strength, and push your limits. www.thelabbangkok.com

a bevvy of books Thailand’s stationary and bookstore chain B2S has kicked it up a notch with its brand new lifestyle bookstore THINK SPACE B2S. Located at CENTRALFESTIVAL EASTVILLE, this enormous space is offering a lot more than any other bookstore in the city. Inside visitors will find an absolutely huge amount of books for sale, as well as creative products, innovative gadgets, and well-designed furniture. There’s also co-working spaces available and the store will be hosting some cool workshops from time to time so stay tuned by checking out the official Facebook page. www.facebook.com/thinkspaceb2s

spectacular spa One of Bangkok’s most historic luxury five-star riverside hotels, the MANDARIN ORIENTAL, recently introduced its exclusive SPA STUDIO, located in the hotel’s freshly refurbished Garden Wing. This new spa facility offers four extravagantly designed treatment rooms—set in a tranquil atmosphere—promising powerful, effective, and less time consuming treatments. The treatments include express massage, waxing, manicures and pedicures by the renowned podiatrist BASTIEN GONZALEZ from France, and customized facial treatments using award-winning products from Germany. www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/luxury-spa

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 107 LIFESTYLE | spa deals

SO Nippon Treatment at SoSpa So Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel.com Freshen up and rejuvenate your skin with a SO Nippon Treatment at SoSpa, the luxurious 600 sq.m spa facility located in the SO Sofitel Bangkok hotel. The treatment highlights include a Japanese-style Ko Bi Do Anti-Aging Facial (90 minutes) together with a Head and Shoulder Massage (30 minutes). And now, exclusively for September, the full treatment is priced at just B4,500 net per person—reduced from the normal price of B6,000 net per person. SoSpa opens daily from 10am-10pm.

The Rainy Season Signature Spa at Away Spa W Hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.whotelbangkok.com This month, Away Spa at the W Hotel is offering special treatments focusing on wellbeing, detoxification, and personal renewal. Start off with a 90-minuteBody Compress Massage (B3,999)—which also includes a half hour foot massage—or choose the Head to Toe Therapy (B2,799/90 minutes) for total relaxation. Other treatments include Diamonds Are Forever, a full-body, age-defying treatment which incorporates 100 percent natural diamond powder (B4,399/120 minutes).

Balancing Touch at Sanctuary Wellness and Spa Rembrandt Hotel | 19 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7100 | www.rembrandtbkk.com Throughout the month, Sanctuary Wellness and Spa by Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok is introducing a 25 percent discount on its selection of 60-minute massages. The Balancing Touch features a combination of massages, using Eastern and Western techniques, while the Swedish Massage is a European full-body treatment to soothe aching muscles. Or, go for the Energizer Massage which concentrates on the neck, shoulders and lower back. Each treatment is B900 per person (reduced from B1,200).

Blood Type Spa Treatment at Spa Athénée Plaza Athénée Bangkok | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.plazaatheneebangkok.com A person’s individual blood type is widely recognised as being vital to determining individual physiological and personality characteristics. With this in mind, the Spa Athénée is offering individualized massages according to customer blood type, designed to boost the immune system. The personalized treatments include the Immunetra Blood Type Retreat (B8,200/240 minutes), a half-day of personally encoded bliss, and the Immunetra Blood Type Massage (B3,600/90 minutes).

Feel Pattaya at Devarana Spa Dusit Thani Bangkok | 946 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 636 3596 | www.devaranaspa.com Devarana Spa at Dusit Thani Bangkok presents ‘Pattaya’s Delight’, a spa retreat inspired by Thailand’s popular beachside resort town. Begin with Pattaya’s Local Dessert Body Scrub (30 minutes), where a freshly squeezed scrub uplifts the mood with its fruity smell, while softly exfoliating and revitalizing the skin. Complete the journey with a Warm Bamboo & Devarana Massage, starting with warm bamboo stick compress. Priced at B3,750, this promo is available until the end of November.

Work Hard Then Relax Hard with Baan Sabai Spa Baan Sabai Spa | Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 661 5981 | www.baansabaithailand.com After a day of hard-work re-energize your body—down to its very core— with a visit to Baan Sabai Spa. From September to November, various promotions are available, including the Deep Tissue Massage and Herbal Ball Compress (B1,900), a premium combination of essential oils and hot herbal ball compresses. Meanwhile, the Aromatherapy Massage and Body Scrub (B1,600) channels the mythical secrets of Oriental beauty with an organic cream scrub. Give your body what it needs!

108 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com spa review | LIFESTYLE

Lifestyles on 26

arlier this year, Centara Grand to-ceiling windows. On the far left, a the hammock and even hanging upside & Bangkok Convention Centre door leads to a beautiful outdoor area down, we tried to bend our bodies at CentralWorld refurbished comprising a swimming pool, bar, sofas into different yoga-inspired poses. The Eand renovated its fitness centre and Jacuzzi, as well as some outdoor work-out requires a lot of strength in Lifestyles on 26. High above Bangkok’s gymnastic apparatus and a wooden the arms, shoulders and hands, as well downtown core (as the name suggests, platform for morning Tai Chi classes. as good balance and concentration—as it’s on the 26th floor), it makes a In addition, the fitness centre provides you need to hold on tightly for the convenient venue for sports enthusiasts a Fitzone for circle training and HIIT entire time in order not to fall off! to squeeze in a workout anytime (High-intensity interval training) as well It is definitely a fun experience during the day or night. Finding the as a studio for a number of different moulding into different postures while way can prove a little tricky—take the classes including Pilates, Zumba, TRX, hanging a metre or so above the lift of the Convention Centre to the Yoga Fly and Thai boxing. ground, and best suited for those who 23rd floor, before changing to the After several years of more or less enjoy a flexible work-out without the hotel lift for another three floors—but regularly practicing yoga, I decided traditional philosophy and thinking once you reach the top you will be to give Yoga Fly a try and opted for behind other types of yoga. The Yoga rewarded with a spectacular view of one of their evening classes. Also Fly class on its own is B400/60min, but the city skyline, making your workout known as ‘Aerial Yoga’, it’s basically the fitness centre offers many different all the more special. a combination of dance moves and membership packages and promotions Upon entering the modern traditional yoga poses performed with to combine classes with access to the reception area—a spacious room and on a yoga hammock. gym. by Julia Offenberger furnished with a handful of sofas— Unfortunately for me, the class guests can already get a glimpse was held in Thai only, but luckily one of of the modern fitness room at the the other students could translate for Lifestyles on 26 back. The compact gym boasts an me. After some initial warm-ups, we 26F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention extensive selection of state-of-the-art pulled ourselves off the floor and into Centre at CentralWorld, 999 Rama I Rd. equipment, including treadmills, cross the hammock. By wrapping our arms Tel: 02 100 6299 trainers and various weightlifting and legs around the fabric, swinging Open daily: 6am-12am machines, all lined up along the floor- back and forth, standing or squatting in www.centarahotelsresorts.com

bangkok101.com SEPTEMBER 2016 | 109 SIGNING OFF | did you know?

Did You Know?...

annabe baristas listen In their experience centre and roasting lecture, instruction, demos, as up! Did you know lab, located across from K-Village on well as hands-on training (to save that you can learn the Sukhumvit 26, small groups of eager money it’s also possible to sign Wtricks of the trade right here in students—maximum five—are taught up for all three levels for only the middle of Bangkok? Roaster everything from cupping and pour B20,000). Call 02 425 1395 ext. and coffee equipment supplier over, to espresso extraction, cold 83, or visit www.facebook.com/ CoffeeWorks (read our interview brewing, milk steaming, and even mycoffeeworks to register for with co-founder Dale Lee on page latte art. There are three course levels their next scheduled class, and 22) offers barista training for both to choose from, each lasting four impress your friends with your professionals and amateurs alike. hours and priced at B8,000, including newfound barista bravado.

110 | SEPTEMBER 2016 bangkok101.com