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Home , Paso Robles AVA

Divide and Conquer THE SPECTACULAR NEW VITICULTURAL AREAS OF PASO ROBLES

by Randy Caparoso

In October 2014, the U.S. Department of big thing, but at the consumer level it seeks working in those region—think of the 16 Treasury’s Tax and Trade Bureau (aka TTB) to confuse and nothing more.” sub-AVAs of Napa Valley, or the 16 AVAs approved 11 new American Viticultural Nonetheless, the evidence for geo- crisscrossing Sonoma County. For the Areas (or AVAs) located entirely within graphical, environmental and historical Paso Robles petitioners, 11 new appella- the boundaries of the 614,000-acre Paso distinctions submitted by the petitioners tions were far preferable to settling for the Robles Viticultural Area (an AVA since proved more than sufficient enough for way Paso Robles used to be sub-divided in 1983; amended once, in 1996). the TTB to confirm all 11 proposed appel- the minds of most people: as “West Side” 59 winery owners and vineyard grow- lations, under these official names: or “East Side,” in reference to vineyards on ers submitted the original petition for either side of Highway 101, running north- 11 new Paso Robles AVAs in 2007. Adelaida District south. The inference being that West Side According to & Vines (Oct. 2014), Paso Robles Willow Creek District vineyards, located closer to the coast, are this was the longest approval process Templeton Gap District superior because they are in a cooler cli- on record—understandable, according San Miguel District mate region and on visibly steeper hillsides, to Paso Robles Country Alliance Paso Robles Estrella District and that East Side vineyards are warmer, spokesman Christopher Taranto, because Paso Robles Geneseo District flatter, and therefore not as interesting. “this was also the most complex and . . . El Pomar District The reality is considerably more com- largest single request” ever considered by Creston District plex and site specific. While it is clear, the TTB. Internal re-evaluation of the peti- San Juan Creek for instance, that west-side AVAs like the tion/review process as well as cutbacks in Paso Robles Highlands District Adelaida District and the Paso Robles TTB staffing occurring between 2007 and Santa Margarita Ranch Willow Creek District are closer in prox- 2014 also factored into the delay. imity to moderating winds moving through TTB evaluation of AVA proposals rou- Anticipating potentially divisive concerns the Templeton Gap from the coast, there tinely entails consideration of objections, that the Paso Robles “brand” might be are sheltered pockets of vineyard sites in and there were a number of them logged watered down by a plethora of new, unfa- these regions that are warmer than sites on the TTB website in opposition to the miliar AVAs, the petitioners also gained in the El Pomar District east of Highway Paso Robles petition. One Paso Robles approval for conjunctive labeling—that is, 101, and even warmer than hillsides in the vintner commented, “There are enough the requirement that all sub-appellations Creston District further to the east. microclimates and varying soil profiles be used on labels in conjunction with Paso The Templeton Gap District is considered within each area to make these designa- Robles (i.e., Adelaida District–Paso Robles the coolest climate region in Paso Robles, but tions meaningless and arbitrary . . . these , El Pomar District– it also has some of the warmest sites where requests were based on politics and bul- Paso Robles , etc.). the AVA spills east of Highway 101 near the lying by a few large interests.” There was It is true that, in the initial stages, sub- town of Templeton. Like the Templeton Gap even an objection filed by a Las Vegas dividing of broader regions always has less District, the San Miguel District further to the sommelier, who wrote, “This proposal meaning to consumers as well as much of north also straddles both sides of Highway sounds great for those in Paso thinking the trade (sommeliers, retailers, distribu- 101, and is one of the warmest appellations that their sub-appellation will be the next tors, etc.) than to vintners and growers in all of Paso Robles.

106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015 Much of the Templeton Gap District, the Paso Robles Willow Creek District and the Adelaida District on the west side consists of dramatic terraces and mountainous slopes ranging from 700 to 2,200 feet in elevation; often with considerable calcare- ous content favorable to root absorption of water and mineral nutrition leading to higher natural wine acidity. But you can also find similar high elevation and calcar- eous sites in east side AVAs such as the Paso Robles Estrella District, the El Pomar District and the Creston District. As we learn more about individual Paso Robles Viticultural Areas, we also come to a better understanding of their impact on structural and aromatic qualities in result- ing wines. This, after all, is where the rubber meets the road, or Highway 101. A few remarks gleaned from recent tastings and conversations with winegrowers:

Adelaida District Paso Robles’ western- with estate grown fruit on both sides of primary advantage of Willow Creek; giving most AVA is also the most mountainous— Highway 101, concurs with Sass, telling proportionate sugar/acid/tannin balance vineyards planted on slopes at 900 to us, “Adelaida consistently gives us the in varietals as varied as , , 2,200-foot altitudes, in largely calcareous most powerfully structured Cabernet Mourvèdre, , , Carignan slopes of patchy colluvium (rocky clay/silt) Sauvignon, with the lowest pH,” which and . or Linne-Calodo (shallow loam on shale/ results in higher total acidity. Clos Solene Villa Creek Cellars Owner/Winemaker sandstone), in a transitional climate classi- Wines’ Guillaume Fabre, who specializes Cris Cherry, who has the perspective of fied as Region II to III on the Winkler heat in ultra-intense Rhône-style varietals and sourcing his myriad Rhône style blends summation scale. blends, makes note of the fact that lime- from both the Paso Robles Willow Winemaker Kevin Sass once sourced stone alkalinity is also key to wines grown Creek District and the Adelaida District, from seven of the 11 Paso Robles appella- in the Adelaida District’s higher elevation tells us, “Willow Creek has more of the tions as the former winemaker of JUSTIN sites, where “ ripen quickly, but lime coastal influence of afternoon winds flow- Vineyards & Winery. Now that he is helps keep the freshness and balance in ing through Templeton Gap. At higher focused strictly on Halter Ranch Vineyard’s the wines.” elevations, Adelaida sees more hours of Adelaida District estate, Sass tells us, “I sunlight, as it is usually above the fog line am a firm believer in the heavy alkaline Paso Robles Willow Creek District in the morning. So we get a higher acid/ ‘Adelaida Stone’ because it holds acidity The Paso Robles Willow Creek District cranberry/pomegranate profile in our really well.” Because the Adelaida District is a more consistent Region II than the Grenache from Willow Creek, and slightly is also a few miles north of the Templeton Adelaida District just to the north, with lower acid and darker, savory fruit in Gap, according to Sass, “We are able to 1,000 to 1,900-foot slopes of largely Grenache from Adelaida.” ripen in extremely cool vintages . . . yet shallow, calcareous Linne-Calodo soils. warm years tend to benefit the West Side, Jordan Fiorenti, who makes wines from Templeton Gap District The Templeton cooler years the East Side.” Epoch Wines’ Paderewski Vineyard off Gap District, running south of the Paso Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery Peachy Canyon Drive, cites the lime- Robles Willow Creek District, is defined Winemaker Kevin Willenborg, who works stone, shale and 8.0 soil alkalinity as the as a geographic corridor of air flowing

{ SOMMjournal.com } 107 from the Pacific, providing a Region II Paso Robles Estrella District While in the region’s rolling hillsides (740 to 1,600 climate. Alluvial terraces of silt and clay located east of the San Miguel District, feet), although recent plantings of earlier loams and rocky calcareous patches sit at average growing season temperatures ripening Cabernet Sauvignon clones are 700 to 1,800-foot elevations. Turley Wine in the AVA defined by the Estrella River also showing great promise. Cellars has had the interesting experience Basin see slightly cooler maritime influ- Air flowing directly from the Templeton of farming Zinfandel, Paso Robles’s heri- ence—classified as Region II—from both Gap furnishes a moderated Region II cli- tage , in four different old vine sites: the Templeton Gap and air flowing all the mate, and alluvial clay loams are significantly Pesenti Vineyard and Ueberroth Vineyard way in from Salinas Valley to the north. influenced by alkaline calcareous sandstone in the Paso Robles Willow Creek District, Rolling plains and terraces between 800 and siltstone. J. Lohr’s Steve Peck tells us, and Dusi Vineyard and Martinelli Vineyard and 1,800 feet are primarily alluvial and “We began planting Merlot and Cabernet in the Templeton Gap District. sandy loam, with rocky veins of alkaline Franc for our blending programs over a Karl Wicka, who manages the Turley calcareous base that surface in shallow decade ago because El Pomar is typically a program in Paso Robles, tells us: “The topsoil at higher elevations. Growing sea- few degrees cooler than our home ranch most meaningful contrast between son temperatures swing as much as 35° to in the Estrella District.” Pomar Junction Pesenti/Ueberroth and Dusi/Martinelli 40° between night and day, giving excellent Vineyard & Winery co-owner Matt Merrill lies in the soil, since the temperature dif- phenolic content to reds. puts it this way: “The climate in El Pomar ferences between the two regions are J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines has success- is not so cool that we get excess pyrazine, negligible. The from Ueberroth fully staked its entire Seven Oaks Cabernet but not too hot where flavors are baked and Pesenti are derived from calcareous Sauvignon program in this terroir. Says J. out . . . with our well drained Linne-Calodo parent material, and tend to be higher in Lohr Winemaker Steve Peck, “low organic soils, we achieve an ideal mouth-feel natural acidity, laced with minerality and a matter in these soils is the key to reducing and lush fruit-forward character in our tighter mouthfeel. Dusi Zinfandel, which vigor and keeping berry size small, giving Bordeaux varietals and blends.” comes from alluvial soils with rounded us dense, soft flavors, lower in pyrazine cobbles originating from the nearby Salinas (green) flavors.” Potential for flavorful yet Creston District While further to the River, tends to be softer, more plush by softer mouth-feel is also why newer plant- east from the Templeton Gap, the Creston comparison and is approachable sooner.” ings of —which can be exces- District rises up on a 2,000-foot plateau, Ridge Vineyards has an even lon- sive in tannin and acidity in most regions— with plantings on gentle hillsides and ter- ger record of Zinfandels grown in the are also showing great promise in the Paso races, in Nacimiento soil series consisting Templeton Gap District, particularly from Robles Estrella District, whereas Merlot of well-drained sandy or clay loams, layered the Benito Dusi Vineyard, located just east can be on the softer, looser side. with calcareous shale and limestone. The of Highway 101 in flatter, cobbled, loamy climate is classified as Region III; although soil. Ridge Vice President of Winemaking Paso Robles Geneseo District Just south Chateau Margene’s Owner/Winemaker Eric Baughter describes this as “the of Highway 46 from the Paso Robles Estrella Michael Mooney contends, “our own warmest region site in our portfolio . . . District, the Paso Robles Geneseo District data shows that in some years we are producing a delicious, early-drinking style is a lower lying region (740 to 1,300-foot as cool as the Templeton Gap.” of Zinfandel, with intense cherry fruit and elevation) influenced by the Huerhuero from properties like B & E Vineyard have elegant tannins.” Creek Watershed, and is marked by grav- a striking intensity and even more arrest- elly/silty/clay alluvial terraces with alkaline ing grip than Merlots from neighboring El San Miguel District Located in the calcareous elements. Although climate falls Pomar District; and Cabernet Sauvignons northwest section of the Paso Robles on the warm side of Region III, Cabernet by Chateau Margene and Parrish Family AVA, around the little community of San Sauvignon grown here can retain deep Vineyard are among the most elegantly Miguel, the San Miguel District typifies color, pungent spice-scented minerality, composed in Paso Robles, while retaining warmer sections of the Paso Robles AVA bright acidity, rich viscosity, and firm, black the vivid pigmentation and phenolic con- with its Region III-IV climate, and grow- tea-like phenolics—epitomized by produc- centration typical of both sides of the AVA. ing season diurnal swings as extreme as ers such as Cass Winery, and cuvées going 35° Fahrenheit (whereas diurnal swings into crafty blends by Vina Robles. San Juan Creek At the far northwest in the Templeton Gap, Willow Creek and corner of the Paso Robles AVA, in the Adelaida are typically between 20° and 30° El Pomar District Sandwiched between vicinity of the little town of Shandon, the Fahrenheit). In lower lying (580 to 1,600- the south end of the Paso Robles San Juan Creek is a warmer climate AVA foot elevations), moderately deep, alluvial Geneseo District and the eastern edge of (Region II-IV) consisting of fairly high allu- sandy loams, winegrowing families such as the Templeton Gap District, the El Pomar vial clay, shale and sandstone bench lands Caparone Winery have been working with District is quickly emerging as an ideal ter- (980 to 1,600-foot elevation). Quite a bit grapes like Zinfandel, , Aglianico roir for red Bordeaux varieties; particularly of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petite and over the past 35 years. Merlot and , which seem Sirah, as well as specialty red table grapes to retain deep color, bright fruit and acidity have been planted on these heights since

108 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015 the 1960s. While big and chunky, red wines from San Juan Creek deliver deep color VARIATIONS OF TERROIR: and aromatic varietal intensity, benefitting PASO ROBLES CAB COLLECTIVE BOTTLINGS from considerable seasonal diurnal swings (35° to 40° Fahrenheit). Recent notes on current releases representing some of the best of the Paso Robles CAB (Cabernet and Bordeaux) Collective, each very much Paso Robles Highlands In the eastern- reflective of terroir related qualities already being associated with the newly most section of the Paso Robles AVA, approved AVAs of Paso Robles. —R. C. the Paso Robles Highlands District is a warmer climate AVA (Region IV), climbing Sextant Wines 2012 “Kamal” Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California to heights of 1,160 to 2,086-foot eleva- ($42) Epitomizing the lush yet bright style possible in the El Pomar District, this tion, with alkaline alluvial soils mixed with elegant package captures an intensely fragrant nose falling in the raspberry/ younger sandy soils. cherry fruit spectrum of the varietal character, with cedar and anise nuances; fine, lush, round yet zesty on the palate, with a moderately full-body belying its Santa Margarita Ranch In its own 14.8% alcohol. corner at the bottom the Paso Robles AVA—well south of the municipal zones Parrish Family Vineyard 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, around the City of Atascadero—the California ($50) Grown on one of the cooler climate, calcareous slopes of East Santa Margarita Ranch shares the charac- Side Paso Robles’ Creston District, a combination of lifted acidity and deep, pun- teristic of highly calcareous soil types with gent, blackberry/boysenberry with distinctive mineral tones suggesting dried pipe the rest of Paso Robles. Where it differs tobacco veering towards pepper/star anise; full bodied, with a dense, luxurious is in its moderately cool maritime climate mouth-feel, with nary a hint of either “fruit bomb” or green pyrazine characteris- (Region II) influenced by air movement tics once associated with Paso Robles grown Cabernet Sauvignon. funneled in from both Morro Bay and the Templeton Gap. While not quite as cli- Brecon Estate 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California matically “cool” as the appellations of San ($58) From one of the oldest, own-rooted, lowest yielding (two tons per acre) Luis Obispo (i.e. Edna Valley and Arroyo plantings in the Adelaida District; a phenomenally deep colored wine showing Grande Valley), grapes like , distinct terroir related qualities of floral/violet perfume laced with an almost Cabernet Sauvignon, , Jägermeister-like spiced minerality; on the palate, a deep, vividly etched con- and Zinfandel are generated centration packed into a silky fine, medium-weight body, underlined by edgy, in a leaner, lighter, acid driven style, closer mouth-watering acidity. to San Luis Obispo than the rest of Paso Robles in sensory manifestation. Chateau Margene 2012 “Cask 4” Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, The Santa Margarita Ranch AVA California ($96) This seamlessly balanced varietal represents the advantages is a virtual monopole belonging to three of blending. Half of the blend comes from Chateau Margene’s home estate families farming the Margarita Vineyard in Creston District, with a balance coming from a cooler climate Paso Robles and producing wines under the Ancient Willow Creek District vineyard and one of the rockiest, most calcareous sites Peaks Winery label—its five-mile long, in the Adelaida District. The nose is of deep, blackberry/cassis fruit layered with 996 acres of vines were originally planted espresso-spiced sweet oak, coming across as plush, silky, yet bright, zesty and by Robert Mondavi Winery in 1999. The finessed on the palate. three current property owners reclaimed the vineyard in 2005, who were com- Halter Ranch Vineyard 2012 “Ancestor” Paso Robles, California ($55) pelled by the ranch’s phenomenal mix 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% , 7% Petit Verdot of soils, ranging from ancient sea bed— Deep, lush nose suggesting blackberry and dried cranberry; full, broad, thick, replete with chalky white, fossilized sea fleshy and meaty on the palate, this wine is revved up by bright, buoyant fruit, shells—and sedimentary shale, to rocky virtually free of pyrazine, and deep, dark earth tones rather than sweet fruitiness. granitic and alluvial clay, embedded in 900 to 1,400-foot slopes. Jada Vineyard 2012 “Jack of Hearts” Paso Robles, California ($50) Consequently, wines can vary according 60% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec to the spectacular terroirs; ranging from Grown on Jada’s home estate, demonstrating the vivid, purplish inky concen- grippy yet pungent, moderately weighted tration of anthocyanin and phenolic balance, easily achieved in the calcareous Cabernet Sauvignons from shale and allu- hillside terroir of the Paso Robles Willow Creek District; tight, floral nose with vial clay blocks, to higher acid, perfumed firm yet upbeat savory fruit qualities carried by zesty acid and thick cords of Cabernet Sauvignons grown in the calcar- tannin, coiled into an elegantly composed, medium-bodied wine. eous seabed blocks.

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