Stephan Vineyards Volume 2, issue 3 November 15, 2003 L’AVENTURE NEWSLETTER

INSIDE THIS ISSUE: ACCOLADES 2003 Accolades 2003 1 Tablas Creek Nursery 2 January’s issue of Forbes maga- Name this Rhône! 2 zine carried an article by Alan Farnham entitled “The Next Chef of the Future 3 Napa.” Farnham became ac- quainted with Stephan and his Dinners and Tastings 3 at the James Beard House dinner in New York last Novem- 2003 Harvest 4 ber 12th. It didn’t take long for Forbes to get a camera crew out to the winery to document “a day in the life” at L’Aventure. A dramatic photo of Stephan in the vineyards, along with equally flattering comments, sets the tone for press in the year 2003. Special points of inter- Farnham ascribes Stephan’s est: choice of Paso Robles over Napa and other California viticultural areas to our unique, Westside • New Club shipment terroir, and underscores the role Stephan Asséo and Ella schedule for 2004: Febru- of tiny yields in our quest for top ary, May, and November quality. Forbes mentions L’Aven- ture in the same breath as Mou- • 2002 ...the ton Rothschild and Cheval Sonoma, and other growing another important reason to perfect holiday quaff! Lim- Blanc, two legendary Bordeaux regions, it was with Paso that join Club L’Aventure. As our ited supply properties. “I fell in love.” esteemed 2002 Estate Cuvée is released in May 2004, it Wine Spectator’s March 31st The August Wine Advocate will be club members who get • 2002 Report has to wait issue rated our 2000 Optimus review of L’Aventure included first crack at this wine and our until February….we’re too very highly, for this vintage that the following Robert Parker new releases of , Estate busy making the 2003s! has critics wrestling about its comments: “...one of the most Syrah, Estate Cabernet, and ranking, given its place between innovative winemaking opera- Rhone Estate, which also the excellent 1999s and the tions in Paso Robles. These typically sell out at release. 2001, which could be our best singular wines are completely This, coupled with a 20% dis- vintage yet at L’Aventure. This different from anything I have count on all of Stephan’s month’s November 15th Wine tasted from California’s Cen- wines and L’Aventure special Spectator again lists this score tral Coast. This impressive events — and an inside track in its California Cabernet re- winery is doing everything on purchasing Estate Cuvée view. It’s interesting to consider right.” futures — is reason enough to how many well known Napa Then, along came Food & bring a close, wine-collecting producers did not fare as well, Wine in October, listing friend into the club this holi- even though their wines trade at L’Aventure as reason #98 of day season. This way, we can two and three times the price. “125 Reasons We Love keep L’Aventure in the family Saveur magazine’s August/ Wine.” And this month’s Wine a bit longer. As Alan Farnham September issue featured Paso Enthusiast awarded L’Aven- said: “Haven’t heard of Paso producers in a story called ture Optimus and Syrah each Robles yet? Fine. That’s the “Falling in Love with Paso,” the 93 points. way wine lovers hope to keep title inspired by Stephan’s com- L’Aventure is not exactly a it.” ments that, after visiting Napa, well-kept secret anymore — Page 2 Volume 2, issue 3

TABLAS CREEK NURSERY

In 1985, Laura Wulff was in has the answer. “When we is then potted in special soils Costa Rica, trying to “save the made the decision to come to and ushered to the greenhouse, world” with the Peace Corps. California, the phyloxera scare where it will take root and accli- While working with farmers on was full blown, and, we matize to it’s new environment. sustainable crop management, thought that maybe 20% of Graft “take” is around 75-80%. little did Laura suspect that she available rootstock might be Rootstock, similarly, is built would one day be managing infected. We wanted to start from canes and sorted accord- clean, so we developed ing to diameter. Rootstock har- the nursery with the idea vest takes place in December of providing ourselves and January, when pruning with sound rootstock and takes place. budwood.” Since its in- For a detailed account of the art ception, Tablas Creek’s and science of rootstock and nursery has provided budwood propagation, visit countless wineries and Tablas Creek on Adelaide Road. vineyards (including Call in advance at 237-1231 to L’Aventure), in and out of schedule a tour. the Paso Robles AVA, with top–quality grafts of While the nursery has a Syrah, , 200,000 vine capacity, it has The nursery at Tablas Creek Mourvèdre, and been decided that, for 2004 at Counoise, not to mention least, the nursery will concen- and developing Tablas Creek’s white Rhône varieties such as trate on propagation exclusively innovative rootstock and bud- , Marssanne, Rous- for Tablas vineyards. They will wood nursery in Paso Robles. sanne, and . continue to make their bud- wood and rootstock materials It was in the early 1990s that Syrah has been the most de- manded variety, with Gren- available to outside clients Robert Haas and the Perrin through Novavine Nursery in family of Chateau Beaucastel ache and Mourvèdre on the upswing. Sonoma, but prefer to focus Name this Rhône! and first brought cuttings from their their efforts, given market con- Chateauneuf du Pape southern Budwood is derived from ditions, on developing their own receive a double magnum Rhône estate to the US. Follow- canes pruned from the vines plantation. ing a 3-year quarantine of the following harvest. Canes are of our 2002 “Rhône budwood and rootstock by the cut into 5-bud sections and The proof is in the pudding! This FDA, vines were brought to the kept dormant in a cooler for a time- and cost-intensive nursery Estate” “far out” Adelaide Road loca- year until ready for grafting. A operation has produced tion, where they have flourished complex operation follows, and, ultimately, wines of distinct ever since. The question is, including an omega cut, callus- character and world–class why? ing to seal the cut, and a hot standing. Bob Haas, legendary importer antifungicidal wax to protect and partner in the operation, the graft. The grafted budwood

NAME THIS RHÔ NE!

We’ve received some excel- Other entries are also under of a blend itself. Or, one might lent suggestions for a name consideration, but we’re going explore a Latin dictionary or for our Rhône Estate blend to to keep the name game going find it hidden in an obscure be released in May 2004. As through the holidays. We passage in William Younger’s we stated previously, we will know that you Club Adventur- God, Men, and Wine. Who award a double magnum of ers will make it a point to knows where or when this elu- this delicious, 60% Grenache/ encourage your friends to call sive name will pop up. Hope- 40% Syrah cuveé to the upon their creative powers, fully, you will recognize it for L’Aventure devotee that while around the holiday table what it is, as it does. And comes up with the name that and under the gentle influ- then….please call me! The win- makes Stephan stop and say, ence of a glass of Optimus or ner will receive her or his prize “aaaah, yes!” Bijou could be Estate Cuvée! with the May wine club ship- the front-runner….Joker was a It could be something to do ment. Bonne Chance! good try, but, alas, it’s taken. with the wind or with the idea L’Aventure newsletter Page 3

CHEF OF THE FUTURE

school, with the focus on Since moving to Paso Robles core subjects. Thursday is in 1998, Julien Asséo has dedicated to the administra- made the round–trip pilgrim- tive and service aspects of age to Bordeaux with his fam- the hotel and restaurant ily each summer. This year trade, while Friday is the was different — he stayed be- toughest schedule...math hind, electing to trade his and French! Templeton High School di- ploma for his dream of a culi- The school day at Lycée Ho- nary baccalaureate from telier de Gascogne — one of the better culinary institutes France. With his parents’ Julien Asséo, age 16 blessings, Julien commenced in France — runs from 8:00 his career in mid-September at AM to 5:00 PM. Everyone the Lycée Hotelier de Gas- gathers at the end of the day for a meal prepared by stu- campus during the week and at cogne in Talence, 15 minutes home on weekends. For Julien, this south of Bordeaux. dents in their third year or beyond. Following the first means weekends in Bordeaux with It is precisely around this time, year’s general studies, stu- his Grandmère and Grandpère on 14 to 16 years of age, that “Monday’s the best...I dents focus increasingly on Stephan’s side. Not bad duty to draw! students in France begin to culinary technique and ser- Will Julien stay in France following his decide on their path: a 4-year get to cook. Friday’s the vice protocol. Ultimately, they tenure at the Lycée? “Maybe,” he university education or a pro- will experience everything says. “My parents know a lot of peo- fessional school. Julien knew worst...I have math and from fresh market shopping ple there. I know I could get a good what he wanted to do all to presentation at table, job working in a good restaurant. But along. French!” informing themselves on all I might want to come back to the US “I’ve loved cooking since I was aspects of the culinary and to work, maybe in LA or New York. little,” he says, “and always hospitality arts. At the end of France is very competitive, and I’d Julien Asséo, Lycée wanted to be a chef.” He their third year, students like to own my own restaurant some- smiles excitedly as he de- have the option of collecting day. Plus, I think I can make more Hotelier de Gascogne scribes his new routine. their BAC or continuing for money in America.” Chip off the old Classes convene Monday two more years to achieve a block! through Friday, with a compre- BTS, a sort of Master’s in Watch for a special event at L’Aven- hensive curriculum that covers Culinary Arts. Along the way, ture one of these days, with Julien all the basics but emphasizes performance will earn them Asséo in the kitchen. Take it from the culinary arts. Monday is his a recommendation from me...if you can get a reservation, you favorite day, as he gets into faculty to work as a stagier, won’t be disappointed! the kitchen for instruction from or apprentice, in a restaurant 9 AM to 3:00 PM. Tuesday and or hotel. Students live on Wednesday are “regular”

DINNERS AND TASTINGS

Looking back on the October friends in this Winery dinners. 17th Fall Harvest Dinner with once-a–year In the interim, Laurent Grangien, I must say setting. Stephan and that it was a welcome respite Looking ahead, Fabrizio Ianucci from the orchestrated chaos our next dinner are working on a of the harvest. It gave us time at the winery date for an Etrus- to “breathe,” as Stephan likes will be with Chef can Dinner at to say. Those in attendance Antonio Varia of Alloro, probably in will testify to the magic aura Buona Tavola to Laurent Grangien and Stephan January. You will that harvest time brings to a celebrate Zin- Asséo not want to miss winery, and to the splendid fest 2004. Re- this hedonistic evening created by Chef serve early, as banquet! Call Grangien and Stephan, and this dinner promises to sell Alloro for more details at 805- the special chemistry among out like all past L’Aventure 238-9091.

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Stephan Vineyards

L'Aventure Winery 2815 Live Oak Road D ANS LE VIGNOBLE...2003 HARVEST Paso Robles, California 93446 2003 was a special vintage. A Stephan. “The cycle this year Verdot. As we reported previously, later-than-usual bloom and a was shorter than last year, yet, the 2002 vintage was not kind to hot finish to the summer set a I get very ripe grapes.” The our or to our Viognier Phone: 805-227-1588 Fax: 805-227-6988 different growing pattern than vintage will give us potentially plantings. Unfortunately, we have to Email: [email protected] we had previously seen. The 400 to 500 cases of Rhône report that the same holds true for result was very mature fruit and Estate. We’ll see how Stephan 2003. While we can see the light at another promising and distinct ends up blending these with the end of the tunnel for getting vintage. While it is too early to Syrah to finish the cuvée. these varieties back on track for talk about the wines, Stephan is Syrah is the workhorse here at 2004, the fact remains that the www.aventurewine articulate about the fruit that L’Aventure, and our estate fruit 2002 and 2003 Estate Cuvée will will make the wines in 2003. came in looking great. Small, represent a departure from .com The growing season itself, once ripe clusters produced brilliant Stephan’s intellectual ideal concern- it got going, took off and was purple-black juice, all of which ing the blend. Nonetheless, the poised to set 6-7 tons an acre is now in barrel undergoing 2002 in barrel demonstrates that — in our 2100-vine-per-acre es- malolactic fermentation. Petit Verdot or no Petit Verdot — the tate vineyards. Stephan and Stephan says it looks very estate fruit from L’Aventure has a Dave DeBusk, our vineyard and good, “like always,” but he will very special claim to make, and our production manager, messed wait until it’s been in barrel a Syrah and Cabernet do an excellent with Mother Nature, dropping while to pass judgment. job of carrying the blend. some 60-70% of clusters to get (Remember to purchase futures of The same holds true for Caber- the 2003 in May and June of 2004. us down to our benchmark 2- net Sauvignon. Our other work- ton-per-acre yield average. This The 2002 futures have closed and horse, Cab is the backbone for commitments have pre -sold the hard work — dropping fruit and both Optimus and Estate Cu- L'Aventure...where pulling leaves, passing meticu- vintage, except a handful of cases vée. In 2002, Stephan made a for wine club members.) Bordeaux meets the lously through the vineyard, 3 to couple hundred cases of 100% Rhône! 4 times more than most grow- “because Syrah, the workhorse, Syrah, the ers — paid off at harvest with the vintage was so good!” It is critics’ choice, Syrah, the peoples’ rich, pristine, mature fruit grac- now beginning to develop some choice! Easier to identify than an ing the sorting table and Optimus, more down to on its way to the earth than the Estate crusher. Cuvée, Syrah is the wine The , already we cannot seem to keep finished with fermenta- in stock. In 2002, tion as our Estate Syrah Stephan and I put our was going into tank, is heads together and de- already showing prom- cided that, as Charlie ise following it’s first Parker said, “The time is racking into barrel. Rich now!” From the 2002 straw in color and big on vintage, we will offer the palate, we continue some 1000 cases of to favor this from Syrah, up from 350 in our vineyards, and ex- 2001, and we’ll add an- pect that — along with other 1000 in 2003, to Viognier — it will easily take our Syrah to approxi- replace Chardonnay as The harvest crew on the last day of the vintage, mately 2000 cases. No the white wine of choice October 30, 2003 more complaining! In all, for L’Aventure aficiona- the 2003 vintage contin- dos. Staying with our Rhône cigar–box aromas over the rich ues a trend of good to varietals for the moment, 2003 cassis and wild blackberry pal- excellent harvests going back to was the first time that Stephan ate that characterizes 1999. More difficult to classify than brought in Mourvèdre worthy of Stephan’s Paso Cabernets. Will the “big California style” wines of going into an estate blend. (You 2003 convince Stephan to 1999 and 2001, and not as lean as will taste whispers of it in the again produce a 100% Cab? the “classical” 2000 vintage, the 2002 Stephan Ridge.) Gren- ”We’ll see” is all I can get out of 2003 will have time to grow up a bit ache continues to develop, and him! before being judged against its peers. Let’s say, 6 months? 2003 has produced another L’Aventure Estate Cuvée has crop worthy of Estate status. been built around Stephan’s “It’s crazy, you know!” exclaims “wild card” grape variety, Petit