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L'aventure Newsletter Stephan Vineyards Volume 2, issue 3 November 15, 2003 L’AVENTURE NEWSLETTER INSIDE THIS ISSUE: ACCOLADES 2003 Accolades 2003 1 Tablas Creek Nursery 2 January’s issue of Forbes maga- Name this Rhône! 2 zine carried an article by Alan Farnham entitled “The Next Chef of the Future 3 Napa.” Farnham became ac- quainted with Stephan and his Dinners and Tastings 3 wines at the James Beard House dinner in New York last Novem- 2003 Harvest 4 ber 12th. It didn’t take long for Forbes to get a camera crew out to the winery to document “a day in the life” at L’Aventure. A dramatic photo of Stephan in the vineyards, along with equally flattering comments, sets the tone for press in the year 2003. Special points of inter- Farnham ascribes Stephan’s est: choice of Paso Robles over Napa and other California viticultural areas to our unique, Westside • New Wine Club shipment terroir, and underscores the role Stephan Asséo and Ella schedule for 2004: Febru- of tiny yields in our quest for top ary, May, and November quality. Forbes mentions L’Aven- ture in the same breath as Mou- • 2002 Chardonnay...the ton Rothschild and Cheval Sonoma, and other growing another important reason to perfect holiday quaff! Lim- Blanc, two legendary Bordeaux regions, it was with Paso that join Club L’Aventure. As our ited supply properties. “I fell in love.” esteemed 2002 Estate Cuvée is released in May 2004, it Wine Spectator’s March 31st The August Wine Advocate will be club members who get • 2002 Report has to wait issue rated our 2000 Optimus review of L’Aventure included first crack at this wine and our until February….we’re too very highly, for this vintage that the following Robert Parker new releases of Syrah, Estate busy making the 2003s! has critics wrestling about its comments: “...one of the most Syrah, Estate Cabernet, and ranking, given its place between innovative winemaking opera- Rhone Estate, which also the excellent 1999s and the tions in Paso Robles. These typically sell out at release. 2001, which could be our best singular wines are completely This, coupled with a 20% dis- vintage yet at L’Aventure. This different from anything I have count on all of Stephan’s month’s November 15th Wine tasted from California’s Cen- wines and L’Aventure special Spectator again lists this score tral Coast. This impressive events — and an inside track in its California Cabernet re- winery is doing everything on purchasing Estate Cuvée view. It’s interesting to consider right.” futures — is reason enough to how many well known Napa Then, along came Food & bring a close, wine-collecting producers did not fare as well, Wine in October, listing friend into the club this holi- even though their wines trade at L’Aventure as reason #98 of day season. This way, we can two and three times the price. “125 Reasons We Love keep L’Aventure in the family Saveur magazine’s August/ Wine.” And this month’s Wine a bit longer. As Alan Farnham September issue featured Paso Enthusiast awarded L’Aven- said: “Haven’t heard of Paso producers in a story called ture Optimus and Syrah each Robles yet? Fine. That’s the “Falling in Love with Paso,” the 93 points. way wine lovers hope to keep title inspired by Stephan’s com- L’Aventure is not exactly a it.” ments that, after visiting Napa, well-kept secret anymore — Page 2 Volume 2, issue 3 TABLAS CREEK NURSERY In 1985, Laura Wulff was in has the answer. “When we is then potted in special soils Costa Rica, trying to “save the made the decision to come to and ushered to the greenhouse, world” with the Peace Corps. California, the phyloxera scare where it will take root and accli- While working with farmers on was full blown, and, we matize to it’s new environment. sustainable crop management, thought that maybe 20% of Graft “take” is around 75-80%. little did Laura suspect that she available rootstock might be Rootstock, similarly, is built would one day be managing infected. We wanted to start from canes and sorted accord- clean, so we developed ing to diameter. Rootstock har- the nursery with the idea vest takes place in December of providing ourselves and January, when pruning with sound rootstock and takes place. budwood.” Since its in- For a detailed account of the art ception, Tablas Creek’s and science of rootstock and nursery has provided budwood propagation, visit countless wineries and Tablas Creek on Adelaide Road. vineyards (including Call in advance at 237-1231 to L’Aventure), in and out of schedule a tour. the Paso Robles AVA, with top–quality grafts of While the nursery has a Syrah, Grenache, 200,000 vine capacity, it has The nursery at Tablas Creek Mourvèdre, and been decided that, for 2004 at Counoise, not to mention least, the nursery will concen- and developing Tablas Creek’s white Rhône varieties such as trate on propagation exclusively innovative rootstock and bud- Viognier, Marssanne, Rous- for Tablas vineyards. They will wood nursery in Paso Robles. sanne, and Grenache Blanc. continue to make their bud- wood and rootstock materials It was in the early 1990s that Syrah has been the most de- manded variety, with Gren- available to outside clients Robert Haas and the Perrin through Novavine Nursery in family of Chateau Beaucastel ache and Mourvèdre on the upswing. Sonoma, but prefer to focus Name this Rhône! and first brought cuttings from their their efforts, given market con- Chateauneuf du Pape southern Budwood is derived from ditions, on developing their own receive a double magnum Rhône estate to the US. Follow- canes pruned from the vines plantation. ing a 3-year quarantine of the following harvest. Canes are of our 2002 “Rhône budwood and rootstock by the cut into 5-bud sections and The proof is in the pudding! This FDA, vines were brought to the kept dormant in a cooler for a time- and cost-intensive nursery Estate” “far out” Adelaide Road loca- year until ready for grafting. A operation has produced grapes tion, where they have flourished complex operation follows, and, ultimately, wines of distinct ever since. The question is, including an omega cut, callus- character and world–class why? ing to seal the cut, and a hot standing. Bob Haas, legendary importer antifungicidal wax to protect and partner in the operation, the graft. The grafted budwood NAME THIS RHÔ NE! We’ve received some excel- Other entries are also under of a blend itself. Or, one might lent suggestions for a name consideration, but we’re going explore a Latin dictionary or for our Rhône Estate blend to to keep the name game going find it hidden in an obscure be released in May 2004. As through the holidays. We passage in William Younger’s we stated previously, we will know that you Club Adventur- God, Men, and Wine. Who award a double magnum of ers will make it a point to knows where or when this elu- this delicious, 60% Grenache/ encourage your friends to call sive name will pop up. Hope- 40% Syrah cuveé to the upon their creative powers, fully, you will recognize it for L’Aventure devotee that while around the holiday table what it is, as it does. And comes up with the name that and under the gentle influ- then….please call me! The win- makes Stephan stop and say, ence of a glass of Optimus or ner will receive her or his prize “aaaah, yes!” Bijou could be Estate Cuvée! with the May wine club ship- the front-runner….Joker was a It could be something to do ment. Bonne Chance! good try, but, alas, it’s taken. with the wind or with the idea L’Aventure newsletter Page 3 CHEF OF THE FUTURE school, with the focus on Since moving to Paso Robles core subjects. Thursday is in 1998, Julien Asséo has dedicated to the administra- made the round–trip pilgrim- tive and service aspects of age to Bordeaux with his fam- the hotel and restaurant ily each summer. This year trade, while Friday is the was different — he stayed be- toughest schedule...math hind, electing to trade his and French! Templeton High School di- ploma for his dream of a culi- The school day at Lycée Ho- nary baccalaureate from telier de Gascogne — one of the better culinary institutes France. With his parents’ Julien Asséo, age 16 blessings, Julien commenced in France — runs from 8:00 his career in mid-September at AM to 5:00 PM. Everyone the Lycée Hotelier de Gas- gathers at the end of the day for a meal prepared by stu- campus during the week and at cogne in Talence, 15 minutes home on weekends. For Julien, this south of Bordeaux. dents in their third year or beyond. Following the first means weekends in Bordeaux with It is precisely around this time, year’s general studies, stu- his Grandmère and Grandpère on 14 to 16 years of age, that “Monday’s the best...I dents focus increasingly on Stephan’s side. Not bad duty to draw! students in France begin to culinary technique and ser- Will Julien stay in France following his decide on their path: a 4-year get to cook. Friday’s the vice protocol. Ultimately, they tenure at the Lycée? “Maybe,” he university education or a pro- will experience everything says. “My parents know a lot of peo- fessional school. Julien knew worst...I have math and from fresh market shopping ple there.
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