The Wines of Paso Robles

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The International Wine Review September/October 2012 Report # 33: The Wines of Paso Robles

Introduction

This summer we traveled to Paso Robles and spent In this Issue a week visiting the diverse vineyards, talking with Introduction...... Cover many talented winemak- A Brief Wine History...... 3 ers, and tasting over 300 wines. We discovered Geography and Terroir...... 4 that while the number of Viticulture in Paso Robles...... 6 15 Million Year Old Oyster Shell 1 wineries has grown rap- Wines of Paso Robles...... 8 idly over the past couple of decades, Paso Robles has long been known for producing Fine Dining in Paso Robles...... 12 high quality fruit. We found small, dry-farmed and head Marketing Paso Robles Wines...... 13 trained vineyards, both old and new, as well as large, Tasting Notes and Ratings...... 14 irrigated vineyards, some producing grapes for markets outside the AVA. We found large fossilized oysters, flaky Annexes: calcareous soil, and alluvial clay in the vineyards. We met Map of Paso Robles Wineries...... 34 with winemakers passionate about their work and whose The Vineyards of Paso Robles...... 35 talent is shown in their outstanding wines. In this report we relate what we learned about the terroir, the vineyards, the grapes, and the wines of Paso Robles.

Paso Robles is a diverse region comprising 26 thousand the creation of the AVA to about 50 in 2000 and over 270 acres of vines in an AVA with a total area of 667 thousand in 2012, an increase of over 400 percent in the last de- acres, almost three times the size of the Napa Valley AVA. cade! Most of these wineries are small and family-owned It has grown rapidly over the past three decades: vineyard and operated. acreage today is more than five times that when the AVA was created in 1983. Growing conditions vary widely de- The diversity in growing conditions, winery size, and pending on exposure to winds, topography, and distance varieties make it difficult to succinctly describe Paso Robles from the ocean. Recognizing these differences, a petition wines. The task is made still more difficult by the fact that to create 11 sub-AVAs was submitted to the Alcohol and over half of all grapes are sold to producers outside the Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) in 2007; a ruling on AVA, who mostly produce wines without a Paso Robles this petition is expected soon. AVA designation. Producers within the AVA range from tiny, very high end, boutique wineries to large, commercial Highly favorable growing conditions have contributed to wineries producing a wide range of wines. While Paso the rapid growth of viticulture in Paso Robles. And, as the Robles produces numerous single varietals wines, it is per- wines of the region have gained national recognition, the number of wineries has exploded from 17 at the time of Continued on page 2 Introduction Continued from page 1 The i-WineReview is published by the International Wine Review, LLC. Our office is located at 6625 Old Chesterbrook Road, McLean, VA 22101. Our email haps best known for its Bordeaux and Rhone red blends. is: [email protected] Rates for one-year subscrip- Among single varietals, we were most impressed with tions are $69 for the online edition and $89 for the Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Petite Sirah. print edition. Combined online and print subscriptions While not generally known for its white wines, we were are $99 for 1 year. Subscriptions include exclusive favorably impressed by the Rhone white blends. access to all online resources of i-winereview.com. Special group rates are available to wine clubs and As it has gained recognition for its wines, Paso Robles has wine schools. Contact us about eligibility and rates. become a lively tourist destination with fine restaurants and Subscriptions may be purchased online at www.i-wi- numerous, popular events like the Paso Robles Wine Fes- nereview.com Reproduction of the material contained tival, the Zinfandel Festival, Harvest Wine Weekend, and herein, including copying, without written permission the Paderewski Festival. In this report, we review some of is prohibited by law. Media, wine importers, distribu- Paso Robles’ best restaurants in addition to surveying its tors and retailers may use brief portions of this mate- terroir, viticulture, and winemaking. rial in its original form if attributed to the International Wine Review.

Acknowledgements We would like to thank the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, in particular, Jennifer Porter, Executive Director, Chris Taranto, Director of Marketing, and Shannon Brady, Communications Coordinator, for their outstanding support in preparing this issue of the IWR. The Alliance is one of the most professionally run and helpful grower and producer associations we have yet to encounter in our years of wine travel. We also greatly appreciate the in-depth background information on the wine industry in Paso Robles provided by Steve Lohr, Dana Merrill, Kenneth Volk, Gary Eberle, Austin Hope, and other industry leaders. Lastly, we wish to thank all of the growers, vineyard managers, and winemakers, too numerous to mention by name, for their warm welcomes and for the wine tastings and vineyard tours they organized. And a special word of thanks to those who invited us into their homes or treated us to the culinary highlights of Paso’s finest restaurants. We have many fond memories of our visit, thanks to all of you.

Mike Potashnik Don Winkler Publisher Editor

2 Paderewski: Composer, Pianist, Diplomat, and Paso A Brief Wine History Robles Winemaker

Rheumatism brought composer and The wine history of Paso Robles parallels that of the pianist Ignacy Jan Paderewski to European immigrants who displaced the indigenous Paso Robles in 1913 in search of the Chumash and Salinian tribes beginning over 400 years relief offered by its hot springs and ago. The first known vineyards were planted in the late mineral baths. He liked the area well 18th century at Mission San Miguel and at the Asistencia enough to purchase the 2800 acre (an assistant chapel to the San Luis Obispo mission) on Rancho San Ignacio and planted a the Santa Margarita Ranch (south of Atascadero on the vineyard to Zinfandel and Petite Sirah map). Beginning around the mid-19th century, European in 1922, producing (at York Mountain immigrants began planting vineyards and making wine Winery) what the Los Angeles Times in Paso Robles. The first commercially successful winery called one of California’s best ten was established by Andrew York in 1882. His vineyard, wines. Paderewski was a bigger than life, flamboyant now part of the York Mountain AVA (west of Templeton), character who not only made wine in Paso Robles but included Zinfandel, which early on became Paso Robles’ also became the Prime Minister of newly independent benchmark variety. Poland after WWI. Today his vineyard has been replanted, and superb wines are being made from it by Epoch and Saxum. And Paderewski is honored each year by the Paderewski Festival. Read the longer article about Paderewski on our blog.

The Modern Era

The modern era begins in 1964 when Dr. Stanley Hoff- man, following the advice of UC Davis and the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff, planted his vineyard, located adjacent to Paderewski’s in the Adelaida Hills, to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. His was the first modern commercial scale winery in Paso Robles, and his wines won national acclaim, attracting other modern day pioneers to the area.

While many of the early vineyards were planted in the hills The Paso Robles AVA 1 west of the Salinas River, the 1970s saw the creation of new, large commercial vineyards in the flatter, more eas- Surprisingly, Paso Robles’ first real boom in vineyard plant- ily cultivated terrain east of the river. These included the ing occurred during Prohibition in the early 1920s with the Rancho Tierra Rejada, the Estrella River Vineyard, the Red arrival of several Italian immigrant families. They planted Cedar Vineyard, and the French Camp Vineyard. today’s famous old vine vineyards, including the Benito and Dante Dusi Vineyards and the Pesenti Vineyard, which In addition to these large plantings, numerous small vine- provide the fruit for Paso’s most highly regarded Zinfan- yards have been planted throughout the Paso Robles AVA dels. This era also saw the arrival of diplomat and concert by individuals and families pursuing their dreams. Some of pianist Ignacy Jan Paderewski who planted Zinfandel and these investors like Gary Eberle, Charles Munch, Stephan Petite Sirah on his Rancho San Ignacio in the Adelaida Asseo, and Matt Trevisan were seasoned winemakers area located due west of the city of Paso Robles. who wanted a vineyard and winery of their own. Gary Eberle left Estrella in 1982 to focus on his own winery. Charles Munch created Adelaida with Neil Collins (now winemaker at Tablas Creek and owner/winemaker of Lone Madrone) in the early 1980s. Stephan Asseo left the rules and regulations of Bordeaux for L’Aventure. Matt Trevisan started Linne Calodo with Justin Smith after an extended residency under Ken Volk at Wild Horse. But many of the investors were new arrivals from Southern California or Colorado or the Midwest, and a few were immigrants from abroad. Gary Eberle’s 1981 Cabernet Sauvignon became the first to carry the Paso Robles name on its label (our tasting of this wine with Gary showed it’s still a lively, complex wine).

As Paso Robles wines garnered acclaim in the popular press, a number of growers, both large and small, de-

3 cided to make and market their own wines. Among larger Rhone Rangers now has 41 members. While still a small growers, Red Cedar Vineyard began its Clayhouse Wines percentage of total vineyard plantings in Paso Robles, in 2003, Steinbeck started producing wines in 2006, the wines made from Rhone varieties are winning critical Dusi Ranch started its J. Dusi Wines in 2006, and Pomar acclaim, providing the impetus for continued growth in Junction Vineyard started its Pomar Junction wines in 2005. plantings. Many of the larger vineyards use only a small portion of their crop for their own wines, selling most to large winer- Geography and Terroir ies located both within and outside the Paso Robles AVA. The Paso Robles AVA is located in northern San Luis Among smaller growers, Eric Jensen began making his Obispo County. It is a large AVA that is 42 miles wide at own Booker Vineyard wines in 2005 and Justin Smith its northern border and 30 miles long at the point where began making Saxum wines from his family’s vineyard Highway 101 bisects the appellation running from San beginning with the 2000 vintage. Many small growers Miguel in the north to Santa Margarita in the south be- who make wine continue to sell grapes to other wineries as tween Atascadero and San Luis Obispo (see map above). well. The commercial and lifestyle attractions of growing Not only is the AVA large, it’s also topographically and grapes and making wine lie behind the incredible growth climatically diverse with many soil types. In the accompa- in the number of bonded wineries in Paso Robles. nying table, we identify the principal Paso Robles growing 1 cuttings planted in Paso Robles today . The immediate success of Tablas Creek stimulated areas where large numbers of vineyards and wineries The Rhone Rangers are found (see map of key vineyards and wineries in the planting of Rhone varieties, expanding from 100 acres in 19Annex 1)2. 94 to over 2000 acres Until 1990, new plantingstoday. The Paso Robles chapter of the Rhone Rangers now has 41 in Paso Robles were mainly to members. While still a Bordeaux varietiessmall percentage of total vineya and that old standby, Zinfandelrd plantings in Paso Robles, wi (al- Topographynes made from Rhone and Soils though, Gary Eberlevarieties are winning critical a had already introduced Pasocclaim, providing the impetus f Robles or continued growth in to Syrah). This changedpGeographylantings. with the arrivaland Terroir of Rhone Valley Paso Robles is topographically diverse with altitudes vary- vintners Jean-Pierre and François Perrin who with their ing from 720’ to 2400’ above sea level. It is also geologi- importer Robert Haas established Tablas Creek Vineyard cally active with numerous earthquake faults, including the in 1989. In 1993 they began planting cuttings of Rhone San Andreas Fault, which runs in a northwesterly direction varieties imported from their Chateau de Beaucastel es- through the eastern part of the AVA. Another set of faults tate—Syrah, Grenache,The Paso Robles AVA is located i Mourvèdre, Viognier, Roussanne,n northern San Luis Obispo Coun run along the basety. It is a large AVA that is of the Santa Lucia mountains at the Marsanne, and Grenache42 miles wide at its northern bor Blanc. After establishingder and 30 miles long at the p their western edge ofoint where Highway 101 the apellation. And the Rinconada Fault own nursery, Tablasbisects the appellation running from San Miguel in the north to Creek became the source of many runs along the Salinas Santa Margarita in the River. In addition, there are low of the Rhone cuttings planted in Paso Robles today . The mountain ranges on all sides of the AVA, with the Santa Lu- immediate successsouth between Atascadero and San Luis Obispo (see map above). N of Tablas Creek stimulated the planting ot only is the AVA large, it’s also topographically and climatically diverse with many soil types. In the cia range along the coast with a large, alluvial basin in the of Rhone varieties, expanding from 100 acres in 1994 to center. The region’s largest river, the Salinas, runs parallel over 2000 acres accompanying table, we identify today.1 The Paso Robles chapter ofthe principal Paso Robles growi the ng areas where large numbers of vineyards and wineries are found (see map of key vin2 eyards and wineries in Annex 1) . Wine Areas of the Paso Robles AVA Location Name of Soils & Climate Selected Vineyards in AVA Growing Area

Far North San Miguel Alluvial, hot & dry Bon Niche, J. Lohr, Ranchita Canyon, Silver Horse Center Geneseo and Alluvial, dry, mild Cass, Eberle, J. Lohr, North Estrella Bench marine influence Meridian, Niner, Shimmin Canyon, Steinbeck Center Creston and El Alluvial, calcareous Gallo Sunnybrook Ranch, South Pomar rolling hills, Pomar Junction moderate rainfall & winds Far West Adelaida Hills Calcareous, Adelaida, Halter, Justin, mountainous, high Tablas Creek rainfall, modest marine influence Center Templeton and Calcareous, hilly, Calcareous, Denner, West Willow Creek cool, high rainfall, L’Aventure, Linne Calodo, strong Pacific winds Peachy Canyon, Far South Santa Margarita Calcareous, cool, Margarita Ranch high rainfall, strong marine influence 1Today these Tablas CreekTopography Vineyard Selections and (TCVS) Soils are propagated and sold worldwide through Novavine in Santa Rosa, CA. 2Source: The Wine Country Alliance.

1 4 Today these Tablas Creek Vineyard Selections (TCVS) are propagated and sold worldwide through Novavine in Santa Rosa, CA. 2 Source: The Wine Country Alliance.

6 to Highway 101 and forms the dividing line between what Miguel and in the east. This is reflected in afternoon is commonly called “west” and “east” Paso Robles. temperature gradients as shown in the map with the blue zone (the southwest portion of the AVA) being the coolest Soils vary throughout the Paso Robles AVA and often vary and the red zone (the eastern and northern parts of the significantly within even the same vineyard3. West of the AVA) the warmest. The temperature gradient map shows Salinas River and in the Adelaida, Templeton and Willow that temperature variations are as much north-south as Creek areas one finds clay and loam calcareous and sili- they are west-east. However, there are also summer days ceous soils derived from sedimentary rocks; the calcareous with relatively little marine air incursion, resulting in high soils are highly alkaline. East of the river—in the Estrella, temperatures throughout the AVA. And while daytime tem- Geneseo, El Pomar and other areas—the soils are often al- peratures are highest in the eastern side of the appellation, luvial in nature with clay, gravel and sand with more acidic it also experiences large diurnal temperature variations subsoils. Throughout the AVA, hilltops show thin, eroded due to the cool evening air that descends from the eastern soils of high mineral content, while the bottoms of hills are hills and mountains. heavier clay and loam. Stephan Asseo of L’Aventure in the Templeton district finds three weeks difference in matura- In general, growing degree days increase from the south- tion between the top and bottom of his hillside vineyards. west to the northeast. As a result, harvest times differ by a month or more within the AVA. In general, areas with There are several advantages to growing vines on the cal- lower temperatures allow for slower maturation and better careous soils found in Adelaida, Templeton, Willow Creek development of the grapes and their polyphenols, contrib- and Santa Margarita and at higher elevations in other uting to more elegant wines. areas. Calcium-rich clay soils retain the winter rains while allowing deep soil root penetration, are associated with higher grape acidity and strong cell walls that resist fungal disease, and reduce vine vigor leading to smaller bunches, lower yields, and often better quality fruit. Calcareous soils also often add a note of minerality to wines, especially whites.

Climate

Coastal mountain peaks reach as high as 3200’ but decrease to as low as 1400’. At the lowest elevations—at the Templeton Gap located due west of Templeton and at Santa Margarita—the cool ocean winds can spill over into Paso Robles. Also, at times cool winds arrive down the Salinas River from Monterey Bay into the San Miguel area. As a result, summer days in much of Paso Robles see dramatic swings in temperature, as much as 50° difference Rainfall. Precipitation varies widely throughout the AVA between the summer peak and the evening low. with high altitude vineyards closer to the ocean receiving the most rainfall; on average an additional two inches of rain falls for every mile movement to the west. Areas closest to the coastal range like Adelaida, Willow Creek, Temple- ton, and Santa Margarita receive on average 25 inches or more of rainfall, while the driest areas like San Miguel and Shandon receive less than 15 inches, and the rest receive between 15 and 25 inches annually. The highest rainfall (about 29”) is found in the southwest portion of the AVA at Santa Margarita due to its elevation and proximity to the ocean, and the lowest rainfall (about 11”) is found in the extreme north at San Miguel and in the extreme east. Those areas receiving the most rainfall can be dry farmed with minimal supplemental irrigation, which is fortuitous

4 since water sources are hard to come by. Those areas Paso Robles Temperature Gradients 1 receiving the least rainfall must be irrigated, which is made possible by the large (30 million acre feet) Paso Robles Moving west to east, the winds diminish in strength, and Groundwater Basin that underlies the eastern part of the the climate becomes more continental. Winds are weak- appellation. est in the northern portions of the appellation near San

3For a detailed exposition of soil types and geologic formations in Paso Robles, see Thomas J. Rice and Tracy G. Cervellone (2007), Paso Robles: An American Terroir. 4Source: Jason Haas, Tablas Creek Blog.

5 About 40 different varieties of grapes are planted in Paso Santa Margarita Valley: Robles. As shown in the chart, Cabernet Sauvignon is the A Special Terroir In a re- most widely planted variety in the AVA, and Bordeaux red gion replete with special varieties constitute over half of total plantings. Zinfandel— terroir, the Santa Mar- the AVA’s oldest variety—represents just 9 percent of the garita Valley stands out. total. Surprisingly, except for Syrah, the Rhone varieties Franciscan priests brought that have received so much press in recent years are not grapes and winemaking yet planted in sufficient numbers to register on the graph. to the Santa Margarita In addition to Rhone varieties, several growers are experi- de Cortona Asistencia in menting with Spanish (Tempranillo), Portuguese (Touriga 1787. Over 200 years later in 1999 the Robert Mon- Nacional), Italian (Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Aglianico), and davi Winery leased 1000 acres from the owners of even Austrian (Blaufrankisch) varieties. the Santa Margarita Ranch and planted vines on 800 acres of what is now the Margarita Vineyard. What Old Vine Zinfandel attracted Mondavi to Santa Margarita was the proxim- Paso Robles is home ity to the ocean and gaps in the Santa Lucias that allow to some of California’s Pacific breezes to quickly cool even the hottest summer oldest and most dis- days and permit an unusually long growing season. tinguished Zinfandel Of even greater interest were the diverse soils of the vineyards, including area—granite, basalt, shale, alluvial and, especially, the Dante Dusi, Pesenti ancient sea bed rich in calcium and large oyster fossils. and Ueberroth Vine- The diverse soils and microclimates allow the vineyard yards. These vine- to successfully grow a large number of grape varieties. yards, most planted In 2005 when the Mondavi Winery was purchased by Italian immigrants, by Constellation, the three families that own the Santa are head-pruned and dry-farmed and located west of Margarita Ranch bought out the lease and proceeded the Salinas River. They produce very low yields of very to manage the vineyard themselves. At that time they small berries. The Dusi Vineyard includes a 25 acre also established the Ancient Peaks Winery and brought parcel (called Benito Dusi, pictured here) planted in on Mike Sinor as winemaker. However, they continue to 1923 on the east side of Highway 101 (and the fruit sell most the fruit they produce. source for Ridge Vineyards Paso Robles Zinfandel) and a 100 acre parcel (called Dante Dusi) planted in 1945 on the west side of the highway (and the fruit source Viticulture in Paso Robles for Cypher, Turley, and J. Dusi Wines). The 45 acre Pesenti Vineyard, planted in 1922, and the steeply Paso Robles’ 26 thousand acres of vines is less than 6 per- sloped Ueberroth Vineyard, planted in 1885, are now cent of California’s total. It represents 84 percent of total both owned by Turley and provide the grapes for two plantings in San Luis Obispo County. Although the Paso of their exceptional zinfandel wines. Reviews of the Cy- Robles AVA is three times the size of the Napa County pher, J. Dusi, and Turley wines can be found in Tasting AVA, it has just slightly more than half the total plantings of Notes of this report. Napa. The youth of Paso Robles, limited water supply, and mountainous terrain explain why less than 4 percent of its territory is planted to vines. Irrigation and Water Management.

The overhead sprinklers popular in the 1970s have been replaced by regulated drip irrigation that both conserves water and permits precise stress management of the vine, although overhead sprinklers are still sometimes used for frost protection. This change has been less important for growers on the east side of the AVA with access to the Paso Robles Ground- water Basin than it has for growers on the west side with low volume wells in fractured rock. Frost Protection of Head-Trained Vine Even with drip irrigation some water evaporates, so recently some growers are experimenting with deep drip irrigation where an underground pipe provides water two feet below the surface. This has the advantage of further cutting water use in half, reducing weeds at the surface, and forcing the root system away from the surface.

6 In general, efficient water management can greatly reduce is exposed to the sun. The east and west sides of the row water use in the vineyard, which is important for both may even be harvested differently. reducing water costs and for preventing soil salinity. To reduce the risk of frost, Ancient Peaks uses a pulsator that wets only the vines rather than the traditional overhead Organic and Sustainable Practices. Rain Bird to provide protection while using less water. Grape growers tend to fall into one of four camps—[1] traditional growers using chemical pesticides and fertilizers; Highly variable rainfall and the potential future scarcity of [2] growers adopting environmentally sustainable practices water for irrigation has prompted research into the effects that minimize the use of chemical products; [3] organic of regulated deficit irrigation (RDI) on water use and crop growers certified by third party government or non-govern- yield and quality. Under RDI the amount of water given ment organization; and [4] biodynamic producers certified to the vine is reduced from full irrigation. Recent research by the Demeter International. Increasing numbers of Paso carried out by James Ayars of the USDA and Anji Perry of Robles producers are adopting sustainable and organic J. Lohr Winery in Paso Robles reduced irrigation by 50 to agricultural practices. 75 percent at different stages of the growing season5. The results showed no significant damage to yields or quality In 1994 Dana Merrill of Mesa Vineyard Management while realizing up to a 53 percent savings in water used. and Rich Smith and Steve McIntyre of Monterey County, Other experiments with RDI suggests a reduced density of and others established the Central Coast Vineyard Team insect pests (leafhoppers, especially), reduced risk of salin- (CCVT) to foster sustainable viticultural practices, including ity in the soil, and more concentrated fruit flavors. Defini- prohibiting the use of high risk pesticides. Wineries meet- tive results will come with additional experience with RDI. ing the CCVT criteria are certified as SIP (Sustainability in Practice). To carry the SIP level a bottle of wine must be Planting and Canopy Management made with at least 85 percent certified fruit. Today about 20 Paso Robles vineyards and wineries are CCVT mem- Growers today are paying more attention to questions of bers already certified or seeking SIP certification. planting density, the appropriate rootstock, and managing the canopy in an era of rising temperatures. Planting den- Very few producers are yet certified organic or biody- sity has been increasing over time with growers continuing namic, although several are pursuing certification. The to seek the optimal density that gives good, high quality organic and/or biodynamic producers in Paso Robles yields while permitting adequate air flow and avoiding include: AmByth Estate, Bella Luna, Carmody McKnight, excessive stress on the vine. High density vineyards can Denner, Saxum (James Berry Vineyard), Halter Ranch, be found in newer plantings at Daou (2480 vines/acre) Tablas Creek and Epoch (Catapult Vineyard). and L’Aventure (2100 vines/acre). Paso Robles is one of the few appellations in the country where new vineyards of The reasons to follow sustainable practices are not just head-trained, or bush, vines are being planted. The wide environmental. Such practices also can contribute to im- tops of head-trained vines allow for air movement and proving quality and reducing costs. A 2007 Cal Poly study filtered sunlight. looked at the effect of alternative weed control practices on Zinfandel yields. It found that compared to herbicides, Increased irrigation and the associated risk of salinity and cover crops reduced yields but also increased biodiversity the high pH of many Paso Robles soils are causing growers and successfully suppressed harmful weeds.6 A number to pay more attention to rootstock that has sufficient vigor of Paso Robles growers use alternatives to herbicides to and is tolerant to salinity, limestone, and drought. Re- control weeds. Adelaida Cellars, for example, has a no-till search is being carried out at J. Lohr to determine the rate policy that encourages native grasses to grow between the at which salt accumulates as a result of different irrigation rows, while Ancient Peaks grows cover crops on alternative regimes. Other research purposely adds different amounts rows. of salts to vineyard blocks to determine rootstock tolerance. Steve Lohr reports the rootstock 1103 P is more salt tolerant Other environmental initiatives undertaken by wineries than most; it also is more limestone tolerant. Denner Vine- include Niner’s LEED certified winery, which recycles all its yard matches rootstocks and clones to the terroir of each wastewater and minimizes energy use. J. Lohr generates of its 25 blocks, an example of the meticulous attention over 75 percent of its energy needs through a 3 acre, 756 growers pay to rootstock today. kilowatt solar photovoltaic tracking system, the largest of any winery in the US. Growers seeking the highest possible quality fruit limit yields and ensure their fruit has adequate but not excessive exposure to the sun. They limit fruit yields by shoot thinning and cluster dropping, techniques used throughout the world by quality-oriented growers. Some trellis vines with long hanging arms and pluck leaves to avoid sunburn while still providing dappled sunlight. They treat different sides of the row differently depending on when the side

6Paolo Sanguankeo, Impact of Weed Management Practices on Grapevine 5J. Ayars and A. Perry (2011), Regulated Deficit Irrigation of Wine Grapes. US Growth, Yield Components, Plant and Anthropod Abundance, and Carabid Seed Sixth International Conference on Irrigation and Drainage, San Diego CA. Predation in Paso Robles Vineyard, California Polytechnic San Luis Obispo, 2008.

7 As noted earlier, in addition to Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, Halter Ranch: Environmental Sustainability Paso Robles grows Bordeaux varieties, Rhone varieties, Located on an old Indian and small amounts of a number of varieties from Italy, settlement in the Adelai- Spain, and Austria. Its best wines are often blends of da Hills, Halter Ranch either Bordeaux and/or Rhone varieties. Its best wines are is a large estate (900 also reds, but one of the more pleasant discoveries of this acres) with a 250 acre project was the lush and sometimes delicate Rhone whites vineyard owned by Swiss being made. entrepreneur Hansjorg Wyss, an ardent environ- In addition to blends of varieties, we found a number of mentalist. No expense wineries that purposely source fruit from diverse parts has been spared to create a high quality, sustainable of the Paso Robles appellation. This is in part due to the vineyard of 42 separate blocks planted on a long fact that some varieties do better than others in specific slope that rises to 1800’. Soils range from calcareous areas. However, in addition, some wineries (e.g., Derby, shale to alluvial clay and loam soils. The environmental Vina Robles) use grapes of the same variety from different practices include extensive wildlife corridors that permit districts to gain additional complexity and flavor elements access to the ancient spring on the property, cover to yield a wine greater than the sum of its parts. crops, integrated pest management, and use of organic pesticides and binsecticides.est wines are also reds, but one of the more pleasant discoveries of this project was the lush and sometimes delicate Rhone whites being made. Vintages

The adage that California has no vintage variation is laid Wines of PasoIn addition to blends of varieties Robles , we found a number of winerito rest by Paso es that purposely source Robles, which like much of the state has in fruit from diverse parts of the Paso Robles appellation. This is in part due to the fact that recent years seen early frosts, droughts, cool growing sea- The unique terroirsome varieties do better than ot of Paso Robles is reflected in itshers in specific areas. Howeve wines. sons, and heatr, in addition, some wineries spikes. Precipitation is one of the natural In this section we(e first.g., Derby, Vina Robles) use grapes of the same variety from look at the quality of recent vintages factors affectingdifferent districts to gain the vintages, and it varies widely. Over and then turn to theVintagesadditional complexity and flavor elements to yield a wine great major types and varieties of wines the past two decades,er than the sum of its parts. annual rainfall measured at the produced in Paso Robles. We examine the experience weather station near the airport varied from a high of 25.8 of Paso Robles with respect to each wine type and then inches in 1995 to a low of 4.5 inches in 2007. summarize our findings from our tastings, summarizing the best producers and their wines. Recent vintages have not been kind to the growers and The adage that California has no vintage variation is laid to rwinemakers est by Paso Robles, which like of Paso Robles. Two good harvests, in 2009 The daytime heatmuch of the state has in recent and extensive sunshine of Pasoyears seen early frosts, drough Robles and 2010, arets, cool growing seasons, and bracketed by years of drought and frost produces ripe fruitheat spikes. Precipitation is on and fairly high levels of alcohole of the natural factors affec in many and cold. However,ting the vintages, and it varies while yields have suffered, the quality vintages. The best wines have sufficient depth and acidity of wines has remained quite consistently high. to produce balancedwidely. Over the past two decades, annual rainfall measured at wines, but creating quality wines is the weather station near the a special challengeairport varied from a high of 25.8 inches in 1995 to a low of 4 when grapes are so ripe. Canopy .5 inches in 2007. management and picking based on phenolic ripeness can help produce fruitRecent vintages have not been kin with sufficient depth and richnessd to the growers and winemaker that s of Paso Robles. Two wines are balancedgood harvests, in 2009 and 2010, are bracketed by years of drou despite the level of alcohol. ght and frost and cold. However, while yields have suffered, the quality of wines has remained quite consistently high. Recent Paso Robles Vintages

Year Growing Conditions 2011

Normal winter rainfall was followed by late budbreak and a catastrophic spring frost in early April that reduced yields up to 60%. This was followed by an 2010 especially cool summer. Low yields, slow ripening, and a late harvest created a classic, long‐lived vintage with higher than usual acidity. The growing season began with heavy rainfall, followed by a long, moderate summer, resulting in good fruit set and long hang times. A heat spike in late September provided an appropriate finish to the growing season. Flavor 2009 development was in general better than in 2009 and alcohol levels were lower than normal. This was a transition year after two warm, dry years. The Airport weather station recorded less than 7 inches of rain for the entire rainy season. April frosts were followed by normal summer temperatures with some heat spikes. Very 2008 heavy rainstorms hit the region on Oct 13, causing difficulties for growers who had not yet picked. A challenging vintage with an April frost and a second year of drought. Yields 2007 were lower than normal, but quality overall was high. An early October freeze caused some growers to pick earlier than planned. A super dry vintage with a cold winter and very low rainfall, about one‐third the normal. Temperatures were mild without extreme heat spikes. Yields were down from the previous year. Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux Blends 8

14 Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux Blends Syrah and Syrah Blends Paso Robles offers excellent growing conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon First planted in Paso Robles by Gary Eberle in 1972, and other Bordeaux varieties. Grown Syrah is today the most widely planted Rhone variety. In throughout the appellation, they account 1990 when Tablas Creek Vineyard was first established, for more than 80% of the AVA’s total it introduced four different Syrah clones from Chateau plantings. Cabernet Sauvignon is by Beaucastel. These clones were propagated in the Tablas far the most important grape with about Creek nursery, planted in vineyard blocks in 1994, and 10 thousand acres planted. East of the subsequently made available to and widely planted by Salinas River, Bordeaux varieties are growers throughout the AVA. cultivated in relatively large vineyards by J Lohr and other producers. On the west side, they are planted in small and Syrah is vigorous and thrives in warm climates and poor medium-sized vineyards in the Templeton Gap, Adelaida soils. Because of its vigor, it requires careful canopy and Willow Creek areas by estate vineyards like Justin, Hal- management and aggressive crop thinning. It ripens first ter, L’Aventure, Denner, and Sculptera as well as by numer- among the red Rhone varietals and is harvested in Sep- ous independent growers. tember. Syrah has small clusters and small berries and The Wine. Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon is highly ex- produces concentrated flavors with firm tannins. Syrah pressive in character. It is generally medium to full-bodied, is widely fermented in open-top fermenters. This process rich in color with ripe yet elegant black fruit aromas and exposes the juice to oxygen and helps soften the tannin and compensates for Syrah’s reductive tendencies. flavors. The top rated wines are opaque ruby in color and widely fermented in open‐top fermenters. This process exposes the juice to oxygen and exhibit complex aromas of black currant, plum and black cherry with hints of oak, earth and licorice. They also have Tophelps soften the tannin and comp Rated Syrah ensates for Syrah’s reductive tPrice Rating endencies. great depth of black fruit flavor, firm ripe tannins, excellent structure and balance, and are persistent on the finish. Compared to the Cabernets of Napa Valley, those of Paso Adelaida 2009 Syrah Anna’s $32 92 Robles are softer and more accessible early on. The wines Vineyard of L’Aventure Winery are the epitome of this style as are Austin Hope 2010 Syrah $42 92 those of J Lohr, Justin, and Pomar Junction, to name but a Brian Benson 2008 Syrah Denner $45 90 few. Vineyard There are equally interesting blends of Cabernet Sauvignon Caliza 2007 Syrah $48 90+ and other Bordeaux varieties. For example, Cabernet Cass 2009 Syrah $36 91 Sauvignon is regularly blended with Syrah and Petite Sirah Croad 2009 Syrah Pure $34 92 There are equally interesting blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and or Petit Verdot. Highly successful blends include L’Aventure’sother Bordeaux varieties. Denner 2010 Estate Syrah $60 91+ For example, Cabernet Sauvignon is regularly blended with SyrahOptimus and Estate Cuvée and Booker’s My Favorite Neigh and Petite Sirah or Petit - Epoch 2009 Block B Syrah $55 94 bor. The top-rated Cabernet Sauvignon single varietals and Halter Ranch 2009 Syrah $29 90 Verdot. Highly successful blends Bordeaux blends from ourinclude L’Aventure’s Optimus tasting are the following: and Estate Cuvée and Booker’s My Favorite Neighbor. The top‐rated Cabernet Sauvignon single varietals and J Lohr 2010 Gesture Syrah $35 90 Bordeaux blends from our tTop Rated Cabernetasting are the following: Sauvignon Price Rating Terry Hoage 2009 „ “The Hedge” $50 91 Syrah and Bordeaux Blends Terry Hoage 2010 Syrah 34 $55 93 TheVenteux 2008 Estate Syrah Wine. Syrah is widely cultivated in Paso$46 Robles. 91 Ancient Peaks 2009 Oyster Ridge $50 91+ Some of the best fruit comes from the hillside vineyards Margarita Vineyard and calcareous soils in the west such as the Paderewski Booker 2010 My Favorite Neighbor $60 93 Vineyard, Booker Vineyard, and several others. While Calcareous 2008 Lloyd $54 92 many winemakers produce a single varietal Syrah, their Denner 2010 Reserve Seventeen $56 91 most successful wines are blends of Syrah with other Rhone varieties such as Grenache, which provides additional Forty Denner 2009 Mother of Exiles $60 92 acidity and red fruit (e.g., Ecluse 2007 Rendition), Mourvè- dre and small amounts of Viognier. Syrah is also blended Derby Wine Estates 2007 Implico $32 92 successfully with Zinfandel, Petit Sirah (e.g., Vina Robles Hug Cellars 2008 Booker Vineyard $65 90 2008 Syrée) and Bordeaux varieties. Syrah and Petit J Lohr 2008 Cuvée PAU $50 91+ Verdot are successfully blended in the 2009 Calcareous J Lohr 2008 Hiltop Cabernet $35 91 Moose. Syrah is also blended with Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon and small amounts of Petit Verdot. J Lohr 2008 Cuvée St. E $50 92 Justin 2009 Isoceles $62 93 L ‘Aventure 2010 Optimus $45 90 L ‘Aventure 2010 Estate Cabernet $80 92 Sauvignon Pomar Junction 2008 Cabernet $54 91 Sauvignon Reserve Sculpterra 2010 Statuesque $40 92 Sculpterra 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon $60 91 “Bentley Ironworks” Treana 2009 Red Wine $45 90+ Vina Robles 2008 Suendero $49 90 Syrah and Syrah Blends 9

First planted in Paso Robles by Gary Eberle in 1972, Syrah is today the most widely planted Rhone variety. In 1990 when Tablas Creek Vineyard 17 was first established, it introduced four different Syrah clones from Chateau Beaucastel. These clones were propagated in the Tablas Creek nursery, planted in vineyard blocks in 1994, and subsequently made available to and widely planted by growers throughout the AVA.

Syrah is vigorous and thrives in warm climates and poor soils. Because of its vigor, it requires careful canopy management and aggressive crop thinning. It ripens first among the red Rhone varietals and is harvested in September. Syrah has small clusters and small berries and produces concentrated flavors with firm tannins. Syrah is

16 The Wine.

Syrah is widely cultivated in Paso Robles. Some of the best fruit comes from the hillside vineyards and calcareous soils in the west such as the Paderewski Vineyard, Booker Vineyard, and several others. While many winemakers produce a single varietal Syrah, their most successful wines are blends of Syrah with other Rhone varieties such as Grenache, which provides additional acidity and red fruit (e.g., Ecluse 2007 Rendition), Mourvèdre and small amounts of Viognier. Syrah is also blended successfully with Zinfandel, Petit Sirah (e.g., Vina Robles 2008 Syrée) and Bordeaux varieties. Syrah and Petit Verdot are successfully blended in the 2009 Calcareous Moose. Syrah is also blended Topwith Cabernet Sauvignon and sm Rated SyrahBased Blendsall amounts of Petit Verdot. Price Rating Grenache due to the availability of high quality clones and cuttings, some of which were obtained from Chateau de Beaucastel by Tablas Creek (e.g., Tablas Clone A). Today, Alta Colina 2009 GSM $38 90 there are an increasing number of excellent producers of Ancient Peaks 2010 Renegade $23 90 Grenache and Grenache-based blends concentrated in Bon Niche 2010 Voyage $50 91 and around Paso Robles. Booker 2010 Alchemist $60 92 Booker 2010 Oublie $60 91 The Wine. The top producers of Grenache such as Adelai- da, Austin Hope, Booker, Terry Hoage, Tablas Creek and Brian Benson 2008 Syrah Denner $45 90 Vineyard Villa Creek, are located west of the Salinas River where they benefit from cool growing conditions. However, excel- Calcareous 2009 Moose $42 91 lent Grenache is also being produced in warmer growing Calcareous 2008 Tres Violet $38 92 areas by Cass and other producers. Although Grenache Daou 2009 Celestus $46 90+ usually shows best in blends, several years of experimenta- Eberle 2010 Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard $24 91 tion with new clones has enabled producers to also craft Ecluse 2007 Rendition $38 91 high quality, single varietal Grenache. Epoch 2009 Syrah Block B $55 93 Epoch 2009 Ingenuity $55 93 Grenache-based blends usually include Syrah and L’Aventure 2010 Cote a Cote $80 92 Mourvèdre. In Linne Calodo’s Sticks and Stones and L’Aventure 2010 Estate Cuvée $45 94 Saxum’s James Berry Vineyard, Grenache is the principle Lone Madrone Points West Red $28 91 variety in the blend. It also plays a prominent role in Terry Saxum 2009 Booker Vineyard $85 95 Hoage’s The 46 where it is blended 50-50 with Syrah Saxum 2009 Bone Rock James Berry $85 93 and in Calcareous’ Red Blend, which is composed of 64% Vineyard Grenache and 36% Mourvedre, and in J. Lohr’s Gesture Grenache‐based blends usually include Syrah and Mourvèdre. In Linne Calodo’s Sticks and Saxum 2009 Broken Stones $85 94 GSM. However, in most instances, Grenache plays a sup- portingStones and Saxum’s James Berry Vineyard, Grenache is the princi role as part of GSMs and other blends like Linne ple variety in the blend. It Saxum 2010 Paderewski Vineyard $89 94 Calodo’salso plays a prominent role in T Rising Tides, where it is blendederry Hoage’s The 46 where it is with Mourvèdre blended 50‐50 with Syrah Saxum 2010 Terry Hoage Vineyard $90 94 andand in Calcareous’ Red Blend, wh Syrah, and Tablas Creek’s Espritich is composed of 64% Grenache de Beaucastel. The and 36% Mourvedre, Villa Creek 2009 High Road James Berry $60 92+ top-ratedand in J. Lohr’s Gesture GSM. However, in most instances, Gre Grenache varietals and blends from our tasting nache plays a supporting Vineyard arerole as part of GSMs and other b the following: lends like Linne Calodo’s Rising Tides, where it is blended Vina Robles 2008 Syrée $39 91 Saxum: A World Class Boutique Winerywith Mourvèdre and Syrah, and Ta blas Creek’s Esprit de Beaucastel. The top‐rated Saxum: A World Class Boutique Winery Saxum is one of Paso Ro- TopGrenache varietals and blends fr Rated Grenache and om our tasting are the followinPrice Rating g: Saxum is one of Paso Robles’ finest producers. Its owner, Jusbles’ finest producers. Its Grenache Blendstin Smith (pictured here), is a superstar among California’s Rhone owner, Justin Smith (pic- rangers, and his hand‐crafted wtured here), is a superstar ines are virtually in a class by themselves. During our visit wiamong California’s Rhone th Justin we tasted through hisAdelaida 2007 Grenache Glen new rose $35 90 releases and barrel samples and rangers, and his hand- also visited his magnificent JaVineyard mes Berry Vineyard, which is planted on rocky limestone hillsides. crafted wines are virtually Austin Hope 2010 Grenache $42 91 Saxum wines are mainly Syrah‐basin a class by themselves. ed blends with Mourvèdre and Booker 2010 Ripper $65 93 Grenache playing a support role.During our visit with Justin The grapes are sourced from Calcareous 2009 Red Blend $34 91 we tasted through his Cass 2010 Grenache $28 91 new releases and barrel samples and also visited his Denner 2010 Ditchdigger $60 91 magnificent James Berry Vineyard, which is planted J Lohr 2010 Gesture GSM $35 91 on rocky limestone hillsides. Saxum wines are mainly Linne Calodo 2010 Rising Tides18 $62 92 Syrah-based blends with Mourvèdre and Grenache playing a support role. The grapes are sourced from Linne Calodo 2009 Sticks n Stones $72 92 different vineyard blocks of his James Berry Vineyard Saxum 2010 James Berry Vineyard $90 94 and neighboring Booker Vineyard and Terry Hoage Tablas Creek 2009 Grenache $40 91 Vineyard. Saxum wines are consistently complex, con- Tablas Creek 2007 Esprit de $55 94 centrated and balanced and show the great potential Beaucastel of Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, when planted in the Terry Hoage 2010 The 46 $55 93 right place and crafted by a skilled winemaker. Venteux 2009 Grenache $32 90 Villa Creek 2010 Grenache Denner $50 91 Vineyard Grenache Villa Creek 2010 High Road Red $60 92+ Wine James Berry Vineyard Grenache (also known as Grenache Villa Creek 2010 Willow Creek $45 91+ Noir) was first planted in California in the Cuvée 1860s. After a surge in popularity, due Zinfandel and Zinfandel Blends to its vigor and resistance to drought, the grape fell out of favor among growers ow- vitis vinifera ing to poor quality vines. In recent years there has been a resurgence of interest in Zinfandel is among the first planted in Paso Robles, and today it represents 9% of total plantings. Paso Robles provides ideal growing conditions for Zinfandel—a warm but not excessively 10 hot climate and a long growing season. Jan Paderewski first introduced Zinfandel in Paso Robles in the 1920s at his Rancho San Ignacio estate vineyard near Adelaida. Today that vineyard is the source of fruit for Epoch and Saxum wines. Most of the Zinfandel grown in Paso Robles is planted in large commercial vineyards in the eastern part of the AVA. However, the most interesting wines are from dry‐farmed, head pruned old Zinfandel vines from vineyards such as Dusi Ranch, Pesenti, Snow, and Ueberroth. (For information on these vineyards, see Annex 2.)

20 Zinfandel and Zinfandel Blends Petite Sirah

Zinfandel is among the first vitis Petite Sirah represents only 4% of total vinifera planted in Paso Robles, and plantings in Paso Robles, tiny by com- today it represents 9% of total plant- parison with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah ings. Paso Robles provides ideal and Zinfandel. Petite Sirah was first growing conditions for Zinfandel—a introduced in Paso Robles in the 1920s warm but not excessively hot climate (with Zinfandel) by Jan Paderewski at his and a long growing season. Jan Pa- Rancho San Ignacio. The Peck family derewski first introduced Zinfandel in also planted it in their Red Cedar Vine- Paso Robles in the 1920s at his Rancho San Ignacio estate yard in the 1960s. Despite the small vineyard near Adelaida. Today that vineyard is the source acreage, Petite Sirah has an enthusiastic of fruit for Epoch and Saxum wines. Most of the Zinfandel following among winemakers and consumers. Petite grown in Paso Robles is planted in large commercial vine- Sirah grows well in the sunshine and dry summers of Paso yards in the eastern part of the AVA. However, the most Robles. It routinely yields between four to seven tons per interesting wines are from dry-farmed, head pruned old acre with older plantings producing under 2.5 tons per Zinfandel vines from vineyards such as Dusi Ranch, Pesenti, acre. Head pruned old vines yield even less, but there Snow, and Ueberroth. (For information on these vineyards, are very few Petite Sirah old vines under cultivation. their Red Cedar Vineyard in the 1960s. Despite the small acreage, Petite Sirah has an see Annex 2.) Petiteenthusiastic following among winemakers and consumers. Petite Sirah is usually made in a fruit forward style with Sirah grows well in the The Wine. Several different styles of Zinfandel are pro- densesunshine and dry summers of Paso Robles. It routinely yields ripe fresh blueberry and blackberry flavors and between four to seven tons duced in Paso Robles. Some like Peachy Canyon’s Snow notesper acre with older plantings pr of dark chocolate and oak. oducing under 2.5 tons per acreWhen made well, . Head pruned old vines yield even less, but there are very few Petite Sirah old vines under cultivation. Zinfandel are relatively light in character with red berry many of the wines possess a luscious texture with well- fruit, spice and herbs. Others, such as Thacher’s Trium- rounded ripe tannins. Petite Sirah is often matured in The Wine. virate Reserve Zinfandel and Peachy Canyon’s Zinfandel AmericanPetite Sirah is usually made in a oak to give it a robust and fruit forward style with dens savory quality, but e ripe fresh blueberry and Mustard Creek, are bigger riper, fruit forward wines, lush some producers prefer using French oak. Petite Sirah is Several different styles of Zinfandel are produced in Paso Roblblackberry flavors and notes of es. Some like dark chocolate and oak. When made well, many of the in character with intense aromas of blackberry, pepper prizedwines possess a luscious texture as a blending grape for its deep with well‐rounded ripe tannins color, and tannic . Petite Sirah is often andPeachy Canyon’s Snow Zinfandel are relatively light in character with red berry fruit, spice earth with notes of forest floor. Turley’s old vine, head structure. It is often chosen for blending with Zinfandel, matured in American oak to give it a robust and savory quality, but some producers prefer trainedand herbs. Others, such as Thacher’s Triumvirate Reserve Zinfa Zinfandel Ueberroth Vineyard exhibits ripe blue ndel and Peachy Canyon’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, as well as Grenache and andZinfandel Mustard Creek, are bigger riper, fruit forward wines, black fruit with earthy complexity. Zinfandel is also lush in character with Mourvèdre.using French oak. Petite Sirah is prized as a blending grape f The top Petite Sirah varietals and blends from or its deep color, and tannic blendedintense aromas of blackberry, pepper and earth with notes of fo successfully with smaller amounts of Syrah and rest floor. Turley’s old vine, our structure. It is often chosen fotasting are the following: r blending with Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, as Mourvèdrehead trained Zinfandel Ueberroth Vineyard exhibits ripe blue an in Linne Calodo’s 2008 Cherry Red and in d black fruit with earthy well as Grenache and Mourvèdre. The top Petite Sirah varietals and blends from our its complexity. Zinfandel is also b2010 Outsider, in Cypher’s Anarchy,lended successfully with small and in Thacher’s er amounts of Syrah and tasting are the following: Top Rated Petite Sirah and Price Rating 2009Mourvèdre in Linne Calodo’s 2008 Controlled Chaos. Cherry Red and in its 2010 Outsider, in Cypher’s Petite Sirah Blends

ATopnarchy, and in Thacher’s 2009 Controlled Chaos. Rated Zinfandel and Price Rating

Zinfandel Blends Ancient Peaks 2009 Petite Sirah $35 90+

Clayhouse 2007 Old Vines Petite $25 90+ Sirah Red Cedar Vyd Adeleida 2009 Zinfandel Michael’s $36 92 Derby 2007 Petite Sirah $26 92 Vineyard J. Lohr 2010 Tower Road Petite $35 92 Ancient Peaks 2010 Zinfandel $17 88 + Sirah Croad 2009 Taranaki $30 89 Niner 2008 Petite Sirah Bootjack $24 90 Cypher 2009 Anarchy $40 91 Ranch Sculpterra 2010 Statuesque $40 92 Cypher 2010 Zinfandel Dante Dusi $37 91 Venteux 2008 Estate Petite Sirah $46 90 Single Vineyard Venteux 2009 PMS $30 91+ Epoch 2009 Zinfandel $50 92 Vina Robles 2009 Red 4 $17 90 J Dusi 2009 Fiorentino $38 91+ ViognierViognier J Lohr 2010 Gesture Zinfandel $25 92 Viognier is the most widely planted Linne Calodo 2008 Cherry Red $55 93 whiteViognier is the most widely planted white Rhone variety in Paso Rhone variety in Paso Robles. His- Robles. torically grown in the Northern Rhone, Linne Calodo 2010 Outsider $55 92 Historically grown in the Northern Rhone, it came to California in the Zinfandel it camelate 1980s and was pioneered by to California in the late 1980sgrowers such as John Alban, Jos h and was pioneered by growers such Peachy Canyon 2010 Snow $38 90 Jensen of Calera and Joseph Phelps. Tablas Creek also brought in two as John Alban, Josh Jensen of Calera Peachy Canyon 2010 Zinfandel $38 91 andViognier clones from Chateau de Joseph Phelps. Tablas Creek alsoBeaucastel. Today it is succes sfully Mustard Creek broughtgrown in the rugged hillsides of the Templeton Gap, the Adelaid in two Viognier clones from a hills Thacher 2009 Controlled Chaos $35 91 Chateauand in other vineyards throughout Paso Robles. Viognier is challenging de Beaucastel. Today it is suc- Thacher 2009 Triumverate Reserve $38 90 cessfullyto grow as it is more disease pr grown in the rugged hillsidesone than other varieties, and i of ts yields Zinfandel the Templeton Gap, theare unpredictable. It is also susceptible to spring frost as i Adelaida hills and in other vine- t flowers early Turley 2009 Zinfandel Ueberroth $48 93+ yardsin the season. On the other hand throughout Paso Robles. Viognier, Viognier is reasonably droug is challenging to ht resistant, enabling it to Vineyard growthrive in the as it is more dry Paso Robles summer climate. disease prone than other varieties, and Turley 2009 Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard $42 92 The Wine.

Turley 2009 Zinfandel Pesenti $35 92 Viognier is producing some of Paso Robles’ finest white wines. Producers Vineyard Petite Sirah typically ferment Viogner in stainless steel to emphasize its aromatic qualities, freshness

11 and acidity. They also blend it with other white Rhone varieties such as Marsanne,

Petite Sirah represents only 4% of total plantings in Paso Robl es, tiny by 22 comparison with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel. Petite Sirah was first introduced in Paso Robles in the 1920s (with Zinfandel) by Jan Paderewski at his Rancho San Ignacio. The Peck family also planted it in

21 its yields are unpredictable. It is also susceptible to spring frost as it flowers early in the season. On the other hand, Fine Dining in Paso Robles Viognier is reasonably drought resistant, enabling it to Paso Robles is a small town with thrive in the dry Paso Robles summer climate. a population of around 30,000 residents. Until recently, there were The Wine. Viognier is producing some of Paso Robles’ very few memorable restaurants finest white wines. Producers typically ferment Viogner in for fine dining to serve locals and stainless steel to emphasize its aromatic qualities, freshness tourists. With the expansion of the and acidity. They also blend it with other white Rhone vari- wine industry over the past decade, eties such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache to boost there are now some terrific spots for aromatics and freshness. As in the Rhone, Viognier is also food and wine enthusiasts, and new co-fermented in small amounts with Syrah. The following ones are in the works. Paso has attracted excellent chefs are Roussanne and Grenacthe top rated Viogniershe to boost and blendsaromatics and freshness. As i from our tasting: n the Rhone, Viognier is also co‐fermented in small amounts with Syrah. The following fromare the top rated Viogniers San Diego, Los Angeles, and even France who are aTopnd blends from our tasting: Rated Viogniers and Price Rating redefining fine dining in Paso Robles. Some homegrown local chefs are also generating excitement with their cook- Blends ing, as we discovered.

As elsewhere in California wine country, Paso Robles’ res- Adelaida 2010 Viognier Glenrose $35 90 taurants offer seasonal menus and locally grown produce Vineyard of the kind only available in local farmers markets and Booker 2010 White $40 90 organic farms in the area. Some restaurants like Artisan, Calcareous 2010 White Blend $28 91+ Thomas Hill Organics and Villa Creek, which belongs to Cass 2011 Viognier $24 90 Villa Creek Cellars, are fortunate to have their own farms. Daou 2010 Chemin de Fleurs $36 90 Thomas Hill Organics grows heirloom varieties of fruit, Eberle 2010 Viognier Mill Road $23 91 vegetables and nuts. Villa Creek grows grapes for wine Red Soles 2011 Viognier $26 90+ and raises dairy goats, laying chickens, Berkshire pigs, Sculpterra 2011 Viognier $26 90+ vegetables and fruit trees. Tablas Creek 2010 Côtes de $27 91 Tablas Blanc Paso Robles’ restaurants also offer diners the opportunity Thacher 2010 Viognier $25 90 to enjoy a wide variety of local wines. The restaurants listed below all have excellent wine lists of both local and Venteux 2009 Fleur Blanc $22 90 Victor Hugo 2011 Viognier $20 90 international selections. Some like the Artisan also have OtherOther Rhone Rhone Whites Whites andand Wh Whiteite Blend Blendss extensive wine by the glass programs. We spent one evening at the Artisan bar tasting through their offerings of Aside from Viognier, other Rhone white varieties and white Paso Robles wines by the glass and enjoying their wonder- ful appetizers. blendsAside from Viognier, other Rhone white varieties and white blen are among Paso Robles’ finest white wines. They ds are among Paso Robles’ includefinest white wines. They include varieties such as Grenache Bl varieties such as Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, anc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Roussanne, and Picpoul. Top producers include Adelaida, During our visit we were able to dine at several of the top Cass,and Picpoul. Top producers inclu Tablas Creek, and Villa Creek,de Adelaida, Cass, Tablas Cree among others. k, and Villa Creek, among restaurants in Paso Robles and Templeton as well the fine others. restaurant venue at Justin Vineyard and Winery. We were Top Rated Rhone Whites Price Rating lucky to get tables at a couple of these restaurants on the weekend, as both locals and tourists usually make their reservations well in advance. Below we offer readers a Adelaida 2010 Version The Glenrose $35 91 guide to some of Paso Robles’ finest venues. Vineyard Artisan. Cass 2010 Rockin ‘One Blanc $30 91 Established five years ago by brothers Michael and Chris Koyabashi, Calcareous White Blend Viognier $28 91+ Artisan is an American bistro that of- Marsanne Denner 2011 Theresa $35 91+ fers casual yet elegant food and wine sourced from local purveyors. Chris Eberle 2010 Côtes du Robles Blanc $22 90 serves as chef, and he is a talented one; Halter Ranch 2011 Côtes de Paso $24 90 he was nominated as James Beard best Blanc chef Pacific The food is savory and Lone Madrone 2010 Chenin Blanc $25 90 beautifully presented, including fresh crisp vegetables, Lone Madron 2010 Points West $28 91 magnificent roast pork, and savory duck. The wine list of- White fers a wide variety of Paso Robles wines. We dined here Lone Madrone 2011 Picpoul Blanc $25 90 twice and enthusiastically recommend the Artisan. Glenrose Vineyard Tablas Creek 2009 Esprit de $55 92 Beaucastel Blanc Tablas Creek 2010 Roussanne $30 90 Tablas Creek 2011 Marsanne $30 90 Tablas Creek 2010 Côtes de Tablas $27 91 Blanc V enteux 2009 Fleur Blanc $22 90 23 Fine Dining in Paso Robles 12

Paso Robles is a small town with a population of around 30,000 residents. Until recently, there were very few memorable restaurants for fine dining to serve locals and tourists. With the expansion of the wine industry over the past decade, there are now some terrific spots for food and wine enthusiasts, and new ones are in the works. Paso has attracted excellent chefs from San Diego, Los Angeles, and even France who are redefining fine dining in Paso Robles. Some homegrown local chefs are also generating excitement with their cooking, as we discovered.

As elsewhere in California wine country, Paso Robles’ restaurants offer seasonal menus and locally grown produce of the kind only available in local farmers markets and organic farms in the area. Some restaurants like Artisan, Thomas Hill Organics and Villa Creek, which belongs to Villa Creek Cellars, are fortunate to have their own farms. Thomas Hill Organics

24 McPhee’s Grill. Opened 18 years bringing his culinary wizardry to Paso Robles. His menu ago in the small town of Templeton includes a variety of savory bistro offerings and a compre- just south of Paso Robles, McPhee’s hensive list of local and French wines. Authentic French Grill is owned by the affable Ian bistro cooking of this caliber isn’t easy to find. McPhee. It is a casual restaurant with a long bar and comfortable Villa Creek Restaurant. Villa Creek tables and booths. The restaurant is Restaurant is the creation of Cris and located in a building constructed in 1885 which Ian exten- JoAnn Cherry. The Cherry’s came sively remodeled. The specialties of the house are oak- to Paso Robles from San Diego in grilled steaks, organic chicken, barbecue pork baby back the mid-nineties and founded Villa ribs and planked salmon. McPhee’s has a large wine list Creek Cellars, one of Paso Robles’ of reasonably priced Central Coast wines and beers. finest wineries. Their restaurant serves local and organically farmed Thomas Hill Organics. This restau- products under Chef Tom Fundaro rant was born three years ago when who joined them in 2001. The restaurant has an excellent owners Joe and Debbie Thomas wine list featuring Villa Creek wines and other selections to settled in Paso Robles. The restau- complement the cuisine. Villa Creek is located in the center rant is located in downtown Paso of Paso Robles. Robles and offers casual dining in a comfortable outdoor patio. The restaurant’s dishes are made from local and organic products, many of which are sourced from the Marketing Paso Robles Thomas’ own farm. We enjoyed magnificent dishes of sea scallops, beautifully roasted branzino and delicious roast Wine duck that were usually accompanied by fresh tomatoes, plums, apricots and other local fruits and vegetables As noted in the introduction to this report, Paso Robles is a young and rapidly changing wine region. In just three Ristorante Il Cortile. This relatively decades the acres of vineyards has increased over 400 new Italian restaurant in downtown percent, from 5 to 26 thousand acres, and the number Paso Robles is owned and oper- of wineries has increased over 1400 percent, from 13 to ated by the husband and wife team over 200. A few of these vineyards and wineries are very of Santos and Carole Mac Donald large; most are very small. Many wineries are boutique of Los Angeles. Santos, who has in nature, producing small quantities of high quality wines worked with several top Italian restaurants in Los Angeles, selling for over $30/bottle. Others are quite commercial serves as Executive Chef. Il Cortile is a sophisticated yet in nature, producing large quantities of moderately priced comfortable venue, and the southern Italian offerings by wine. Santos are first class. We enjoyed a variety of dishes including rich burrata, grilled octopus, delicate ravioli with The largest vineyards are very large. They include Red beef checks and seafood risotto. The wine list is also excel- Cedar Vineyard (1200 acres), Meridian Vineyards (1200 lent and includes top selections from local wineries as well Acres), Margarita Vineyards (756 acres), French Camp as Italy and Spain. Vineyards (1700 acres), San Juan Vineyards (440 acres), Shimmin Canyon (formerly Rancho Tierra Rejada) Vineyard The Restaurant at Justin. The (520 acres), Steinbeck Vineyards (517 acres), Dusi Ranch restaurant at Justin’s Vineyards (300 acres) and Gallo’s Sunnybrook Ranch (506 acres). & Winery is located 18 miles The single largest owner of vineyards in Paso Robles is J. west of downtown Paso Ro- Lohr with almost 2000 acres of vines in 21 vineyards. All bles. It offers a quiet and genteel dining venue. Executive of the large vineyards (excepting Margarita Vineyards) are Chef Will Torres prepares creative nouveau and traditional located east of the Salinas River where the topography dishes using local ingredients. Our dinner was outstanding permits mechanized viticulture and where irrigation water and included magnificently prepared dishes such as chilled is accessible. Most of the vineyards west of the Salinas asparagus soup, poached hen egg, braised short ribs, are small, the 250 acre Halter Ranch vineyard being the morro bay albacore and prime hangar steak. The restau- largest. Many large growers—e.g., Red Cedar, Margarita, rant wine list includes a wide selection of Justin’s wines and Steinbeck, French Camp, Dusi—sell most of their fruit, other fine wines from around the world. although some have started their own winemaking operations in recent years. Bistro Laurent. This bistro enjoys an outstanding reputation for serv- ing casual, elegant country French Just as there are small and large vineyards, Paso Robles cuisine in downtown Paso Robles. wineries range from the very small to very large. The It was established over eleven years wineries range from small wineries that purchase all their ago by chef and owner Laurent grapes and process them in custom crush facilities to those Grangien, who worked in kitchens that grow all their own grapes and process them in the in Bordeaux and California before estate winery and those (like Wild Horse) that purchase

13 grapes in other appellations and process them at their Paso Robles winery.

Medium and large wineries with strong brands—e.g., Cas- toro, J. Lohr, Justin, Le Vigne, and Treana/Hope—market their wines nationally. Excepting the few boutique wineries with national reputations, small wineries have considerable difficulty marketing their wines through conventional chan- nels and lack the financial resources to engage in aggressive marketing. A large number of them rely heavily on sales to their wine clubs and to the walk in tourist trade.

The need for a collective marketing organization to raise the visibility of Paso Robles wineries and their wines led in 1993 to the creation of the Paso Robles Vintners & Growers Association, expanded and renamed the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance in 2005, one of the most effective wine marketing bodies we’ve yet encountered in our many wine tours in the US and abroad. In addition to a superb, customer and tourist oriented web site, it spon- sors several annual wine events—a Wine Festival, Wine Country Auction, Harvest Wine Weekend, and annual Zinfandel Festival.7

Paso Robles is on the cusp of the national and worldwide recognition that will solidify its status among the premier wine growing regions of the country. It has unique terroir, accomplished winemakers, both small and large growers and producers focused on different market segments. It has also received the kind of critical acclaim that raises its visibility in the world of the sophisticated wine drinker. While small producers, especially, may find the current marketing challenge a daunting one, all the elements appear to be in place for great success in the near future.

7Complementing the efforts of the Wine Country Alliance has been the Hospice du Rhone, which has until now sponsored an annual event in Paso Robles attracting producers of Rhone varieties from around the world. The organizers of the Hospice decided in 2012 to change strategic direction.

14 Tasting Notes and Ratings How to Purchase the Wines. The wines of Paso Robles are widely distributed in the United States. Most wine shops and restaurants include them in their inventories, but selections are limited. Some wineries, especially boutique wineries, do not produce enough wine for distribution and only sell their wines at the winery, over the Internet or by mailing list. Unfortunately, some wines are so highly allocated that the only way consumers can get them is to register with the winery and hope for the best. On the other hand, some of the outstanding wines reviewed in the report are widely available in major markets through out the United Sates. If you are interested in purchasing them we urge you to contact the wineries directly to determine the best way of finding them. In many instances, the wineries themselves sell their wines online. The winery profiles that follow provide web addresses to help readers contact producers.

Adelaida Cellars Owned and operated by the Van Mike Potashnik, Publisher, and Don Winkler, Editor, tasted Steenwyk family, Adelaida is located at 1800’ in the more than 350 wines for this report. The tastings were Santa Lucia Mountains. Shallow chalky mountain soils held at the IWR offices and during our visit to Paso Robles lead to low yields and concentrated fruit. Twenty-two in July 2012. The wines reviewed here are a broad selec- different varieties are grown, including Rhone and Por- tion of the wines produced in the Paso Robles AVA. They tuguese, on 145 acres of estate vineyards, including the include the wines of large and medium-sized commercial almost 50-year-old original 35-acre Pinot Noir vineyard of Hoffman Mountain Ranch. Winemaker Terry Culton wineries as well as those of small boutique wineries. is producing some superb wines. Adelaida is SIP certi- Almost all the wines are premium wines, although some fied. www.adelaida.com entry-level wines are also included. Adelaida Cellars 2010 Viognier Glendrose Vineyard Paso The tasting notes and ratings are organized by winery, Robles ($35) 90 This is an elegantly styled Viognier show- and we provide background information on each winery ing honeysuckle and light stone fruit aromas. It reveals and the wines reviewed. Because of the large number rich generous flavors, superb balance and a stony mineral character. Adelaida Cellars 2010 Version The Glenrose of wines tasted for this report, we were unable to include Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) 89 The Version has a rich and tasting notes here for each and every wine. Wines scor- complex nose of flowers and melon. It’s soft on the attack ing under 88 points and some older vintages are listed with a creamy, full texture, good concentration of rich fruit as Wines also Tasted, and reviews of those wines can be and hints of smoky oak and toasted almonds, finishing found in our tasting notes database at www.i-winereview. with chalky mineral notes. This superbly balanced wine com is a blend of 63% Roussanne and 37% Grenache Blanc Adelaida Cellars 2010 Version Rosé Paso Robles ($20) 89 This medium salmon colored Rosé is a blend of 45% The International Wine Review rates wines using the 100 Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, and 35% Cinsault that are point system. We do not write up wines that receive a rat- separately barrel fermented and then blended. The wine ing below 85 points. The ratings are: has a gripping freshness, excellent length, and expressive flavors of red berry and cherry. Adelaida Cellars 2007 95 and above A wine of distinction Grenache Paso Robles ($35) 90 This 100% Grenache is 91-94 A wine of outstanding or superior quality an expressive, fruit-forward wine with good purity of flavor 89-90 A wine of very good to excellent quality and fine, tight tannins on a medium weight palate. Notes of earth, mushroom and fresh and dried cherries provide 87-88 A wine of good quality aromas and flavors that carry through to a juicy finish. Ad- 85-86 A wine of fair or acceptable quality elaida Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir HMR Vineyard Paso Robles 84 and below Not recommended ($40) 91 This Pinot Noir is made from the self-rooted, dry-farmed vines planted almost 50 years ago. Yields are about one ton per acre. Made from free run juice, the wine is fermented 50% whole cluster with the additions of dried stems. The medium ruby red wine is elegant in style with brambly red cherry aromas and flavors finishing with fine

15 tannins and chalky minerals. Adelaida Cellars 2009 Syrah quite dry tannins. A blend of 57% Mourvèdre, 22% Gr- Anna’s Vineyard Paso Robles ($32) 92 This is classic, enache, 11% Syrah, and 10% Counoise made with natural elegant Syrah of considerable freshness and purity. Blue winemaking. Wines also Tasted: AmByth Estate 2009 and black fruit, cracked pepper and hints of smoked meat Adamo, AmByth Estate 2010 Decorus, AmByth Estate and minerals are all wrapped up in a nicely balanced and 2010 Priscus well structured package. The fruit is from the 1900’ Anna’s Vineyard and the wines is aged 22 months in 30% new Ancient Peaks In 1999 Rob Rossi acquired Margarita oak, mostly French. Adelaida Cellars 2009 Version Red Ranch and the Margarita Vineyard; later the Filipponi Anna’s Vineyard Paso Robles ($36) 91 Version is a Rhone and Wittstrom families joined as partners. The vineyard style blend of 44% Mourvèdre, 23% Grenache, 20% is the southernmost in the Paso Robles region. Nestled Syrah, and 13% Cinsault sourced from Anna’s Vineyard in the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains, the vineyard and aged 21 months in 40% new French oak. The wine has a diverse terroir that includes shale outcroppings, shows bright red fruit aromas with blue and black berry basalt, decomposed granite, and large petrified oyster notes that are mirrored on a well balanced palate along shells. It’s mostly planted to Bordeaux varieties. Mike with underbrush and mineral notes, finishing with fine, Sinor is director of winemaking. Prior to joining Ancient firm tannins. Adelaida Cellars 2009 Zinfandel Michael’s Peaks he worked at Byron Winery, Domaine Alfred and Vineyard Paso Robles ($36) 92 Made from the dry-farmed, his own label Sinor-LaVallee. www.ancientpeaks.com head-pruned Zinfandel grown in 1600+’ high Michael’s Vineyard. The wine reveals deep fruit aromas of blueberry Ancient Peaks 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($17) and spicy red cherry. The palate has a rich core of dense 88+ This dark ruby red Cabernet Sauvignon blend (91% fruit with a note of dark loam, finishing very long with well- Cabernet Sauvignon plus Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Pe- knit tannins. tit Verdot) reveals red cassis and a light smoky note on the nose and more red fruit with pepper spice and fine, firm Alta Colina Vineyard & Winery In 2003 Bob Tillman tannins on the palate. Ancient Peaks 2009 Malbec Mar- purchased the 130 acre property on Adelaida Road garita Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) 89+ This barrel selec- that would become the 31 acre Alta Colina Vineyard. tion of 88% Malbec and 12% Merlot spends 22 months in Vineyard Professional Services helped develop and French oak, 75% new. Dark ruby in color, it shows a nose manage the vineyard, planted all to Rhone varieties. All of rich black cherry and a fleshy attack of richly flavored, Alta Colina wines are made from estate grapes. Alta dense fruit with sweet oak notes. Pure, sweet fruit shows Colina is a member of the CCVT. We preferred the on the finish. Ancient Peaks 2010 Merlot Paso Robles Rhone reds over the whites. ($17) 89 This blend of 86% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 7% Zinfandel is a very fresh, full-flavored wine that offers real Alta Colina 2009 GSM Paso Robles ($38) 90 This tradi- drinking pleasure. A note of blueberry shows on the finish tionally styled GSM (53% Syrah, 24% Mourvèdre, 23% along with chalky tannins. Aged 15 months in French and Grenache) reveals a perfume of black olive, huckleberry, American oak. Ancient Peaks 2009 Oyster Ridge Mar- violets and tar and a clean, powerful and focused palate garita Vineyard Paso Robles ($50) 91+ This is a delicious, that’s attractively layered with dark red and black fruit modern red blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petite and a light hint of chocolate. Finishes clean with linger- Sirah, 8% Petit Verdot, and 8% Malbec that spends 24 ing sweet fruit notes. Aged 18 months in 67% new French months in 80% new French oak barriques. It’s fruit forward oak. Alta Colina 2009 Old 900 Estate Syrah Paso Robles in style with deep aromas of dark red fruit with chocolate ($48) 90 The opaque purple Old 900 Estate Syrah reveals notes that are mirrored on the rich, flavorful palate. It inky aromas of huckleberry and dark plum with a savory, finishes with saline notes and fine tannins. Ancient Peaks roasted meat accent. It shows noteworthy breadth on the 2009 Petit Verdot Margarita Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) palate with a core of sweet, dense fruit. The finish on this 90 This is a delicious Petit Verdot and an amazing value. blockbuster style wine is long, revealing inky extract. Aged Violets, toasted oak, and graphite show on the nose with 18 months in 80% new French oak. Wines Also Tasted: dense, rich fresh fruit exploding on the attack. The palate Alta Colina 2011 Grenache Blanc, Alta Colina 2010 Clau- reveals impressive intensity of flavor, finishing with fine, dia Cuvee smooth tannins. Excellent. Ancient Peaks 2009 Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($35) 90+ A blend of 89% Petite Sirah AmByth Estate Phillip and Mary Morwood Hart own from the Wittstrom Vineyard in west Paso Robles and 11% AmByth Estate, a Demeter certified biodynamic winery Cabernet Sauvignon from Margarita Vineyard, this dark located in the Templeton Gap. AmByth’s wines are all ruby red blend shows an attractive perfume of toasted oak estate wines made from dry farmed, head trained vines and red fruit on the nose. It has a velvet soft palate that on 20 of the estate’s 42 acres. The wines are all made finishes with sweet oak notes and firm, ripe tannins.Very naturally. Phillip Hart is winemaker. good value. Ancient Peaks 2010 Renegade Paso Robles www.ambythestate.com ($23) 90 This blend of 51% Syrah, 25% Malbec, and 24% Petit Verdot reveals blackberry and a hint of charred oak AmByth Estate 2009 ReVera Paso Robles ($45) 88 This on the nose and a lush, fleshy palate of delicious dark fruit wine is a blend of four grapes. It shows mostly red fruit and savory notes, finishing with minerals and quite dry with earth notes on the nose and palate and finished with tannins. Aged 16 months in French and American oak, 1/3

16 new. Ancient Peaks 2010 Zinfandel Paso Robles ($17) 88+ a pleasant, red-fruited wine. Red plum with a red rasp- This is a very good wine for the price. Made from estate berry note shows on the nose and is picked up again on fruit, it shows real purity of fresh dark red cherry and a hint the palate. The wine is very fresh and finishes long with of earth on the nose and spice and red plum with notes of a pleasing sweet fruit note. August Ridge 2006 Sangio- blackberry and loam on the palate. It’s easy to drink with vese Paso Robles ($30) 88 Ripe red berry and plum fruit good acidity and accessible tannins. and sweet toasted oak show on the nose of this wine. It’s soft on the attack, revealing red cherry, earth and leather Anglim This boutique winery focuses on Rhone variet- flavors on a medium weight palate, finishing with persistent ies. It is owned and operated by Steve and Steffanie flavors and firm tannins. Wines Also Tasted: August Ridge Anglim, one of the earliest of the Rhone Rangers in 2009 Dolcetto Paso Robles Paso Robles. They have no vineyards of their own and partner with other growers. They sell their wines at an Barrel 27 Located in an industrial park on the east side attractive shop in downtown Paso Robles. of Paso Robles, Barrel 27 purchases grapes to make www.anglimwinery.com its Rhone style wines. It also makes popularly priced wines from fruit purchased along the Central Coast. Anglim Winery 2009 Viognier Roussanne Hastings Ranch Russell From and McPrice “Mac” Myers are winemak- Vineyard Paso Robles ($26) 89 This 50/50 blend of ing partners in the venture. Each also has their own Viognier and Roussanne is co-fermented in barrel and independent labels. www.barrel27.com spends 18 months in oak. Yellow peach and chalky minerals show on the nose, while the palate is suave with low Barrel 27 2009 White High on the Hog Paso Robles ($20) acidity, revealing light notes of ripe stone fruit. Anglim 89 This complex Rhone White blend of Grenache Blanc Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Bailey Vineyard (50%), Viognier (40%) and Roussanne (10%) is very good. Paso Robles ($46) 89 This opaque ruby red Cabernet Yellow gold in color, its aromas evoke yellow flowers, Sauvignon reveals a perfumed melange of blackberry and beeswax, and wet river stones. The steely palate adds savory herbs, followed by a soft attack of expressive fruit notes of herbal tea, sneaky acidity, and chalky minerals to on a velvet-textured palate and a very dry finish. Fruit for the mix. Delicious. Barrel 27 2009 Rock and a Hard Place this wine comes from the Old Bailey Vineyard in west Paso. Grenache Paso Robles ($18) 89 This 100% Grenache is Anglim Winery 2011 Rosé Paso Robles ($15) 88 Pale pink fruit forward and straightforward. Intense red raspberry in color, this pleasant drinking rosé shows light red berry fruit with earth notes show on the nose, while the palate is fruit and a fresh, crisp and dry palate. A blend of 60% densely packed with lush, fresh red fruit. Grenache, 27% Syrah, and 13% Viognier. Anglim Winery 2010 Zinfandel St. Peter of Alcantara Vineyard Paso Robles Bodegas Paso Robles Dorothy Schuler is the winemak- ($26) 89 This Zinfandel shows good varietal character er, co-owner, and guiding spirit behind Bodegas Paso with red berry and black cherry fruit on the nose. This is Robles. She specializes in Iberian varieties, especially mirrored on the full-flavored, fleshy palate. It finishes on a Tempranillo and Portuguese varieties, purchasing slightly bitter tannin note. Made from dry-farmed vines in grapes from select vineyards. The grapes are cold the Templeton area. soaked, fermented, and gently pressed before moving to oak barrels. In addition to the Paso Robles wine August Ridge Vineyards John and Jill Backer estab- reviewed here, Dorothy makes a unique Trousseau and lished August Ridge in 2001 with the purchase of vine- Tempranillo blend from vineyards in San Benito County. yard property in the Creston area of Paso Robles. 2005 www.bodegaspasorobles.com was the winery’s first vintage to be released. Italian varieties dominate the vineyard plantings. Wines are Bodegas Paso Robles 2008 Vaca Negra Paso Robles ($28) hand-crafted using small open top fermenters and neu- 91 This blend of Mourvèdre (43%), Tempranillo (36%) and tral oak barriques. Two top of the line reserve blends, Grenache (21%) is impressive. It offers a nose of exotic Jovial and Igneous, were recently added to its portfolio. spices and just a hint of vanilla oak and a silky, elegant Current production is just 1400 cases. and rich palate of clean, pure fruit flavors. This well struc- www.augustridge.com [email protected] tured wine is made from fruit fermented in open-top tanks and aged 21 months in French oak. August Ridge 2007 Ingenious Paso Robles ($44) 90 This is a delicious blend of 72% Nebbiolo, 19% Merlot and 9% Bon Niche Cellars Founded by Wally and Joyce Mur- Cabernet Sauvignon showing a pretty perfume of dark ray in 2005, Bon Niche Cellars owns 10 acres of vine- red cherry, vanilla oak and earth. The palate is medium yards planted to Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet weight, suave, and shows layers of dark red fruit and earth Franc. It’s located on a sloped hilltop 10 miles east of flavors, finishing long and delicate. August Ridge 2007 the town of San Miguel. The wines are well made and Nebbiolo Paso Robles ($32) 88 Light ruby red in color, the mainly red blends. The Voyage is a stand out. Nebbiolo reveals a delicate nose of light red cherry and www.bonniche.com raspberry. In the mouth, it has light red cherry flavor and high acidity, finishing with hard, gripping tannins. August Bon Niche 2009 Chemin Paso Robles ($50) 89 This wine Ridge 2009 Primitivo Paso Robles ($31) 89 The Primitivo is reveals enticing aromas of blue fruit, cassis, and smoke

17 and a lush, full, well-structured palate that finishes long Mourvèdre, 16% Counoise and 15% Grenache. It is fresh with sweet tannins. A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and fruit forward tasting, with note of red berries. Aged 25% Malbec, 20% Petit Verdot, 10% Merlot, and 5% with 80% used French barriques. Booker Vineyard Cabernet Franc. Bon Niche 2009 Fenêtres Petit Verdot 2010 Ripper Paso Robles ($65) 94 This is a superb 100% Paso Robles ($35) 88 The opaque ruby Petit Verdot has a Grenache. Dark ruby in color, it offers a ripe floral nose of perfumed nose of violet, licorice and smoky, charred oak. plum fruit with a hint of spice . It is soft and velvet-like on The palate is dense, brooding, and dark with sweet black the palate with purity of flavor, round and lush tannins and fruit and abundant firm, ripe tannins. Spends 22 months in a long finish. Aged in cement tanks and large format bar- 100% new French oak. Needs a couple of years of bottle rels. A spectacular wine. Booker Vineyard 2010 Tempra- age to show its best. Bon Niche 2009 L’entrée Malbec nillo Paso Robles ($60) 92 This is an elegant light-bodied Paso Robles ($45) 89 This purple-rimmed Malbec reveals Tempranillo of pure plum and black fruit. Aged in 90% meaty, savory notes on the nose along with blueberry and new French oak, it is beautifully balanced with good flavor charred oak. The palate shows dark fruit, toasted oak and concentration, although it has firm tannins that need a few chocolate and a sweet, long finish. Bon Niche Cellars years of bottle aging to soften and integrate. 2009 Voûtes Paso Robles ($50) 90 A big wine made of one-third each Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sau- Brian Benson Cellars Passionate about winemaking vignon, it offers an intriguing, rich nose of dark fruit and from the age of 12, Brian Benson released his first chocolate and coconut toasted oak. Aged in American eponymous wine in 2003, on his 21st birthday. A hot oak for 22 months, the palate is black and mineral like rod fanatic, each year Brian builds a custom car and with a chalky texture, firm, dry tannins and a persistent, creates a custom blended wine to match the design of fine finish. Bon Niche Cellars 2009 Voyage Paso Robles the vehicle. www.brianbensoncellars.com ($50) 91 An exceptionally good blend of Syrah (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), and Merlot (15%). Dark ruby Brian Benson 2008 S & M Paso Robles ($45) 90 This dark in color, the nose reveals blueberry, cassis and toasted ruby blend of Syrah (75%) and Mourvèdre (25%) shows oak, while the delicious, fruit rich palate shows fresh dark abundant, rich dark red fruit married to toasted oak with cherry with rich chocolate oak notes. This wine is beauti- good structure and a lingering finish. Aged in 65% new fully structured with firm, ripe tannins. Also Tasted: Bon oak for 35 months. Brian Benson 2008 Syrah Denner Niche Cellars 2010 Voyage Paso Robles, Bon Niche Cellars Vineyard Paso Robles ($45) 90 This Syrah sourced from 2010 L’Entree Malbec Paso Robles the Denner Vineyard marries copious, fresh fruit to rich toasted oak. It’s very soft on the attack and lush on the Booker Vineyard and Winery Eric and Lisa Jensen palate with notes of violets, earth and dark red fruit and purchased the 72-acre Booker estate in 2001 and pro- lingering sweet oak on the finish. Barrel fermented using vided fruit to Linne Calodo and Saxum before making native yeast on whole clusters and some dried stems. wine on their own beginning with the 2005 vintage. The vines are mostly Rhone varieties planted high Broadside 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Margarita Vineyard density (7x3) on steep, calcareous shale vineyards . The Paso Robles ($22) 89 vineyard is located immediately adjacent to L’Aventure Winemaker Chris Brockway has made a delicious, fairly Winery on Paso Robles’ west side. Eric Jensen is wine- priced Paso Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Margarita maker, and his wines are beautifully crafted. Vineyard’s famous limestone soils. He makes it with indig- www.bookerwines.com enous yeast and a light oak regime. This medium weight wine is well-balanced and fresh with attractive red cassis Booker Vineyard 2010 White Paso Robles ($40) 90 This from start to finish. blend of 75% Roussane and 25% Viognier displays a yellow gold hue and lovely aromas of flower and white Calcareous Vineyard in 2000; today Dana and her peach. It is soft and elegant on the palate with concentrat- sister Erika manage the vineyard and winery, located ed flavors, excellent acidity, freshness and a crisp finish. on the western side of the appellation. The 442 acre Booker Vineyard 2010 Alchemist Paso Robles ($60) 92 The estate includes two vineyards—the 9 acre Carver Vine- Alchemist is a blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sau- yard located in the York Mountain AVA on the western vignon and 10% Petit Verdot. Aged in 50% new French edge of Paso Robles and the 12 acre Kate’s Vineyard, oak for 22 months, it reveals a dark ruby purple color which is planted to Zinfandel. Jason Joyce is winemak- with spicy red and black fruit. On the palate it is beauti- er. www.calcareous.com fully structured and elegant with soft firm tannins, excellent balance and a long finish. Booker Vineyard 2010 My Fa- Calcareous Vineyard 2010 White Blend Viognier Marsanne vorite Neighbor Paso Robles ($60) 93 A tribute to Stephan Paso Robles ($28) 91+ This blend of 65% stainless steel Asseo of L’Aventure Winery where Eric Jensen apprenticed. fermented and aged Viognier and 35% oak fermented A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah, and aged Marsanne shows generous sweet stone fruit and My Favorite Neighbor is a very elegant Bordeaux blend rose petal aromas and a full-flavored palate of spiced, ripe with great intensity of black fruit flavor, soft round tannins, peach drizzled with honey. Very flavorful, and very good. superb balance and good acidity. Booker Vineyard 2010 Calcareous Vineyard 2009 Grenache Mourvèdre Red Oublie Paso Robles ($60) 93 A blend of 43% Syrah, 26% Blend Paso Robles ($34) 91 A spicy, rich and ripe dark red

18 fruited nose is mirrored on the palate with the addition of Cass Winery Steve Cass planted his 160 acre vine- light earth and vanilla oak notes. This blend of 64% Gre- yard in 2001. Located due east of the Templeton Gap nache and 36% Mourvèdre from the estate vineyard shows between Paso Robles and Creston, Cass specializes in impressive depth of fruit and good balance. The grapes estate-grown Rhone varieties, all of them ENTAV clones. are separately fermented and blended after malo and About 35% of the estate grapes are hand picked and aged a total of 22 months in barrel. Calcareous Vineyard used in Cass wines; the remaining 65% is machine 2009 Moose Paso Robles ($42) 91 Moose is a blend of picked and sold. Look Lotze, a young South African 88% Syrah and 12% Petit Verdot, both from the estate from Stellenbosch, is winemaker. All Cass wines are vineyard. The wine shows a very attractive inky blackberry well made, and several selections are outstanding. nose. On the palate hints of chocolate and Asian spice www.casswines.com complement a dense core of juicy, ripe fruit. Fermented in French puncheons and aged 26 months in barrel. Cal- Cass 2010 Rockin’ One Blanc Paso Robles ($30) 91 This is careous Vineyard 2008 Tres Violet Paso Robles ($38) an exceptionally good Rhone white blend made of 52% 92 This is an exceptional Rhone red blend comprised of Viognier, 28% Marsanne, and 20% Roussanne that’s barrel 42% Syrah, 29% Mourvèdre, and 29% Grenache from fermented and aged 10 months in oak with occasional the low-yielding estate vineyard. It has an enticing nose of lees stirring. It offers an attractive flint and light stone violets and blue and black berries and a fleshy, smooth fruit nose and a rich, creamy palate of good depth and palate with juicy acidity and velvet tannins. The separately length. Cass 2011 Viognier Paso Robles ($24) 90 The fermented varieties were blended after malo and aged a 2011 Viognier displays lovely floral aromas of honey- total of 20 months in barrels and puncheons. Calcareous suckle and fresh cling peach and citrus on the nose. It has Vineyard 2008 Lloyd Cabernet Sauvignon ($55 ) 91 This a bright crisp fruit forward palate with tropical fruit flavors, is a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon offering black currant good acidity and a crisp finish. Very tasty. 2011 Rous- fruit aromas and flavors and a lush mouth feel with hints sanne Paso Robles ($28) 89 Made in all stainless steel, this of toasted oak, minerals, chocolate and violets. It exhibits Roussanne has good acidity and freshness with aromas of good structure, round tannins and a long finish. honeysuckle and flavors of cured lemon, banana, spicy yellow peach, and chalky minerals. Cass 2008 Cabernet Caliza Winery Located at the end of Anderson Road in Sauvignon Paso Robles ($26) 89 This Cabernet Sauvignon the Templeton Gap area of west Paso Robles, neigh- exhibits complex aromas of dark plum, briar and earth. bors of the 20 acre Caliza vineyard include L’Aventure’s Aged in 40% new French oak, it has layers of flavor on the Stephan Vineyards and Booker Vineyards. Altitudes palate with nicely integrated oak, firm tannins and a long range from 900-1200’. Soils are predominantly frac- finish. A blend of four different Cabernet clones. Cass tured shale and clay loam. Caliza follows the CCVT 2010 Grenache Paso Robles ($28) 91 The Grenache offers sustainable guidelines. Carl Bowker is owner and wine- a spicy red berry nose with a palate of plum, red berries maker. Caliza specializes in wines made from Rhone and earth. Aged in 100% neutral French oak barrels, it is varieties. www.calizawinery.com medium weight and quite refined and delicious. It is softly textured but focused with excellent balance and round tan- Caliza 2009 Azimuth Paso Robles ($48) 90 This is a fresh, nins on the finish. Cass 2010 Mourvèdre Paso Robles ($36) young GSM blend. It’s very flavorful with notes of black 88 The 2010 Mourvédre offers red fruit with tomato leaf cherry, pomegranate and hints of earth and vanilla and notes on the nose. It is soft on the attack with a modestly finishes with firm tannins. A blend of 40% Grenache, 35% flavored and gentle palate and tails off on the finish with Syrah, and 25% Mourvèdre matured 20 months in French relatively low acidity and a note of alcohol. Cass 2009 oak. Caliza 2007 Companion Paso Robles ($48) 89 This Syrah Paso Robles ($36) 90 The single varietal Syrah of- dark ruby 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend fers aromas of black raspberry and blueberries with hints reveals red and black fruit with earth and coconut notes. of sage and mocha. It has a rich and expressive palate It is of medium weight and finishes with dry tannins with a with loam, earth, and cracked pepper, finishing with firm sweet oak accent. Caliza 2010 Companion Paso Robles tannins and slight astringency. ($48) 89 This 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend was just released and very young when we tasted it. Made Castoro Cellars Niels and Bimmer Udsen established from 100% estate fruit, it’s a very bright and fresh wine of Castoro Cellars in 1983, initially purchasing all their considerable promise. We also tasted the 2007 vintage, grapes. Today, Castoro purchases about half its fruit which showed more expressive, sweet fruit. Caliza 2010 and grows the other half in two estate vineyards—Hog Sidekick Paso Robles ($28) 89+ This is a medium yellow Heaven and Blind Faith. In addition to making its straw 60/40 barrel fermented blend of Roussanne and own 25 thousand cases of wine each year, Castoro is Viognier. Fresh tasting with tropical fruit and lemon curd, a custom crush facility. Most Castoro wines are very it has a creamy palate and a clean finish. Caliza 2007 reasonably priced; our favorites were the Zinfandel and Syrah Paso Robles ($48) 90+ The 2007 Syrah is a multi- Rhone white blend. Tom Myers has been winemaker faceted, very flavorful and balanced wine showing dark since 1990. www.castorocellars.com plum, herbs, cracked pepper and a hint of chocolate. A bit rustic in style, it finishes with gritty tannins that need a bit Castoro Cellars 2011 Tango Paso Robles ($21) 88+ This more bottle age to fully resolve. Aged in about 50% new is an unusual, but successful, white blend comprised of French oak for 20-24 months.

19 45% Viognier, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Chenin Blanc, and Croad Vineyards. Located between the Templeton 5% Moscato. It’s medium dry with ripe peach and yellow Gap and the town of Templeton, Croad benefits from melon aromas and flavors, clean and pure, and with a cooling marine breezes as well as the calcareous soils finish that lingers in the mouth. Castoro Cellars 2010 Zinfu- of the area. Its 20 acre vineyard is mostly planted to sion Paso Robles ($23) 89 This wine is purposely sourced Zinfandel and Rhone varieties. Owner and winemaker from three Zinfandel vineyards in distinct Paso Robles ter- Martin Croad hails from New Zealand, which explains roirs to add interest and complexity. The wine is very good the unusual Maori/kiwi names of several of his wines. with bright acidity, impressive length, and a melange of We especially like his Syrah www.croadvineyards.com herbs, earth, and dark red fruit flavors. Aged 10 months in American and French oak. Wines Also Tasted: Castoro Croad Vineyards 2009 Ariki Pure Paso Robles ($34) 90 Cellars 2010 Whale Rock Chardonnay, Castoro Cellars This GSM is packed with delicious, rich sweet fruit. There’s 2010 Blind Faith Pinot Noir, Castoro Cellars 2009 Zinfandel dark cherry, chocolate, and a hint of violets on the nose, Paso Robles followed by upfront fruit and ripe tannins on the palate,

finishing with subtle sweetness. Made of 60% Syrah, 20% Chateau Margene/Mooney Family. Michael and Mar- Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre. Croad Vineyards 2009 gene Mooney planted their estate vineyard in 1998. Syrah Pure Paso Robles ($34) 92 This has a classic, cool Chateau Margene is home to two labels—Chateau climate Syrah nose of smoked meat and ripe dark fruit. The Margene for Cabernet blends and Mooney Family for palate is fleshy and densely packed with sweet red fruit Rhone blends. In addition to its own 6 acre vineyard, complementing a dark core. Peppery spice and a liqueur Chateau Margene sources fruit from eight central coast like note grace a lingering finish. Croad Vineyards 2009 vineyards. Michael Mooney serves as winemaker. Taranaki Paso Robles ($30) 89 A blend of 62% Zinfandel www.chateaumargene.com and 38% Mourvèdre, this is a very well made and appeal- ing wine. Fresh red plum, baking spice, earth, and toasted Mooney Family 2008 Grenache Paso Robles ($56) 88+ This oak appear on the nose and palate. It finishes with sweet Grenache is blended with small amounts of Mourvèdre tannins and good length. and Syrah, which contribute to its red and blackberry nose with touches of licorice and mocha. The wine is soft and Cypher Winery Susan Mahler and Christian Tietje lush on the palate with pure red berry fruit with hints of have partnered to create the new wine project called cinnamon, spice, and good acidity on the finish. Wines Cypher. Christian Tietje is winemaker. Cypher works also Tasted: Chateau Margene 2007 Beau Mélange Paso closely with several vineyards—Kiler Canyon, Alta Robles Vista, Dusi Ranch, Margarita Ranch—to produce the highest quality fruit. Cypher wines are modern and in- Clayhouse Wines Owner Rick Middleton oversees the novative in style reflecting the flare of their winemaker. general operations of Clayhouse and its estate vineyard www.cypherwinery.com Red Cedar Vineyard, located east of Paso Robles on

the Estrella bench. The Adobe line of wines is inexpen- Cypher Winery 2009 Anarchy Paso Robles ($40) 91 This is sive but well made. The Estate wine series is the Clay- a Paso Robles fruit-packed version of the traditional GSM house top of the line. We especially liked the Petite with Zinfandel substituting for Grenache. Black raspberry, Sirah made from a 45 year old vineyard parcel. Blake chocolate, sweet vanilla, toasted oak and a hint of tobacco Kuhn is winemaker. www.clayhousewines.com erupt from the glass. The wine shows good balance and freshness, although some may find its flamboyance a bit Clayhouse 2011 Adobe White Paso Robles ($15) 88 This excessive. It’s a blend of 37% Zinfandel (from the Dante is an easy drinking entry level blend of Viognier (49%), Dusi Vineyard), 35% Mourvèdre, and 28% Syrah aged Sauvignon Blanc (26%), Grenache Blanc (19%), and in a mix of American, French and Hungarian oak, 35% Princess (6%), a seedless table grape with some Muscat new. Cypher Winery 2009 Heretic Petit Sirah Paso Robles qualities. The wine shows citrus, green herbs, and white ($40) 90 This is a dense, unctuous slightly gritty Petit Sirah pepper spice on a clean, crisp palate. Clayhouse 2009 packed with dense upfront fruit. Violet and blueberry grace Old Vines Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard Paso Robles the nose and also appear on the long, extracted, and ($25) 89 This is a savory wine showing aromas of forest tannic finish. Cypher Winery 2009 Kiler Canyon Vineyard floor, dried herbs, dark fruit and a hint of cocoa that carry Paso Robles ($57) 91 This blend of 85% Syrah and 15% over to the palate along with mineral notes. A young wine, Mourvèdre is silky smooth. It shows dark plum fruit with vi- it’s dry on the mid-palate and finish at this early stage. olets on the nose and a delicious, fruity palate of dark red With more bottle age under its belt, the 2007 vintage of plum with prominent blueberry notes. Very good. Cypher this wine showed better. Clayhouse 2007 Old Vines Petite Winery 2009 Monarchy Paso Robles ($40) 90+ Modern Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard Paso Robles ($25) 90+ With and international in style, this is a fresh, lush, fruit forward just a bit of age on it, this wine has a rich, lush, velvet- blend of 47% Malbec (from Santa Margarita), 46% Petit textured palate. Its bouquet is effusive and redolent of ripe Verdot, and 7% Tempranillo. Black raspberry and dark black raspberry and huckleberry fruit. Notes of chocolate plum with a hint of smoke show on the nose and are complement rich fruit on the palate. picked up on the nicely balanced, extracted palate. Aged

20 in 100% French oak, 50% new. Cypher Winery 2010 10% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. Daou Vineyards 2010 Zinfandel Dante Dusi Single Vineyard Paso Robles ($37) 91 Reserve Seventeen Forty Paso Robles ($65) 91 This dark This Zinfandel is sourced from one of Paso’s finest vine- ruby blend of 67% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot re- yards for Zinfandel. It is a fruit forward wine with aromas veals an intriguing nose of leaves, earth and black cherry of ripe red fruit and hints of vanilla. Aged for 18 months followed by a soft attack, a well balanced, evolved palate in French oak, 30% new, it is nicely balanced with a and firm tannins on a long finish. Aged 16 months in 80% rich mouth feel and flavors of red raspberry, cherry, and new French oak. Daou Vineyards 2010 Reserve Zinfandel cranberry. Paso Robles ($56) 89 This 100% free run Zinfandel is soft and round on a texturally balanced palate with fine asser- D’Anbino Vineyards & Cellars D’Anbino is the creation tive tannins on the finish. There’s red and black berry fruit of John D’Andrea and Carmine Rubino. Their vineyards but also abundant sweet, toasted oak, chocolate, tobacco are located in the Estrella Range and are certified SIP. and loam. Aged 16 months in 75% new French oak. They produce moderate priced Syrah and Bordeaux blends. We find the wines to be on the rustic side, Denner Vineyards In 1998 Ron Denner purchased requiring food to show well. www.danbino.com 156 acres on Willow Creek Road to create the Denner estate vineyard. Today there are 108 acres planted D’Anbino Family Cellars 2007 Quadraphonic Paso Robles to 19 different grape varieties in the rocky, calcareous ($28) 88 This blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% soils of the estate. About half the estate’s grapes are Syrah, 4% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc has aromas sold to other producers. Seven other producers also and flavors of black cherry, earth and vanilla. While soft make wine at the Denner facility. Anthony Yount, just 26 on the palate, it finishes dry with prominent vanilla oak years old, has been winemaker since 2009 and has his notes. Wines Also Tasted. D’Anbino Family Cellars 2007 own label, Kinero. Denner is a member of the CCVT. Orchestration Paso Robles www.dennervineyards.com

Daou Vineyards Daniel and Georges Daou founded Denner 2010 Estate Syrah Paso Robles ($60) 91+ This100% this 100 acre estate in 2007; today about 50 acres Syrah is made from 8 different blocks of the Denner are under vine. Located up to 2200’ in the Adelaida Vineyard using 6 different clones. The nose was somewhat Mountains, the soils of the steeply sloped vineyards are closed at the time of tasting, showing mostly cracked black calcareous with a strong maritime influence. Mostly pepper and dark red fruit notes. The palate is fleshy and planted to Bordeaux varieties, the vineyards are among lush with good focus and showing red plum, earth, and the most densely planted (up to 2480 vines/acre) in savory spice notes, finishing with chalky tannins. Denner Paso Robles. Daou offers three different lines—the 2009 Mother of Exiles Paso Robles ($60) 92 A Bordeaux Paso Robles Collection, the Reserve Collection, and the blend that is polished with impressive intensity of fruit and Estate Collection. (All estate wines are aged in 100% beautifully structure. Cassis and black raspberry fruit are new French oak. Daniel Daou is winemaker. complemented by toasted oak and pepper, finishing with www.daouvineyards.com robust tannins. It’s a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc aged 25 months Daou Vineyards 2010 Chemin de Fleurs Paso Robles ($36) in 85% new French oak. Denner 2011 Rosé Paso Robles 90 A very easy drinking Rhone blend of 48% Grenache ($25) 88 Red berries and minerals show on the nose and Blanc, 26% Roussanne, and 26% Viognier aged in used palate of this Rosé blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cou- French oak, this wine shows a beautiful, floral perfume and noise, and Cinsault. Softly textured in the mouth, it finishes a soft, creamy palate of white peaches with orange zest. with crisp acidity. Denner 2010 The Ditchdigger Paso Delicious. Daou Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($60) 91 This medium red ruby Rhone blend shows Robles ($28) 89+ This is a solidly-fruited and well struc- bright, fresh red fruit on the nose with a distinct red rasp- tured Cabernet with firm round tannins. Blackberry, cedar, berry accent. It offers spicy, up-front fruit and savory herbs minerals and toasted oak show on the nose and nicely with slight stemmy note, especially on the finish. A blend of balanced palate. A blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, 5% Cou- 18% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot aged for 10 months in noise, and 5% Cinsault fermented 35% whole cluster and French oak, 50% new. Daou Vineyards 2009 Celestus aged 16 months in 500 lt puncheons, 35% new. Denner Paso Robles ($46) 90+ This is a big, beautiful wine with 2011 Theresa Paso Robles ($35) 91+ A subtly perfumed an attractive blackberry, pepper, and cooked meat nose, Rhone blend showing guava, melon and bees wax with considerable elegance and balance on the palate, and a beautifully textured, creamy palate. This feminine and big, assertive tannins and palate staining extract on the fin- elegant wine is a blend of 60% Roussanne, 25% Grenache ish. A blend of 61% Syrah, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and Blanc, and 15% Marsanne, one-third fermented on the 11% Petit Verdot matured in 50% new French oak. Daou skins. Aged in a mix of concrete and new and used French Vineyards 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles puncheons. ($56) 90 This Bordeaux blend is soft and mouth filling with firm tannins and a subtly sweet finish. Sweet toasted oak and chocolate notes are prominent on the palate. It’s a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc,

21 with chocolate notes and a long finish with firm, ripe tan- Derby Wine Estates Ray and Pam Derby purchased nins. their first vineyard in 1998 and launched their winery in 2008. Derby Wine Estates has two estate vineyards lo- Eberle Gary Eberle has been making premium wines cated in distinct parts of Paso Robles—Derby Vineyard in Paso Robles for over 35 years. He helped found in the Templeton Gap and Laura’s Vineyard located 6 the Estrella River Winery [now, Meridian] and later miles east of Paso Robles on Highway 46. Only 10 released his first wine from his own winery from the percent of the fruit is used for Derby Wines with the rest 1979 vintage. In addition to the 40 acre estate vine- sold to other producers. Tiffinee Vierra is the winemak- yard, Eberle sources fruit from four other vineyards in er. www.derbywineestates.com the appellation. Ben Mayo has been winemaker since 2003. Annual production is about 25 thousand cases. Derby 2007 Fifteen 10 Red Paso Robles ($28) 90+ A The Eberle wines are often distinctive and complex with Rhone blend of 59% Syrah, 29% Grenache and 12% prominent earth and herbal notes. Our tasting of his Mourvèdre, this wine offers seductive fresh fruit wrapped 1981 (Reserve) and 1985 Cabernets shows they age up in toasty oak. Red and blue fruit show on the nose well, too. www.eberlewinerycom and palate, finishing with a pure blueberry note. The oak is surprisingly subtle and integrated given the 36 months Eberle 2010 Viognier Mill Road Vineyard Paso Robles ($23) aging in 53% new French barriques. The fruit comes from 91 This single vineyard Viognier is one of the best we’ve the Derby Vineyard. Derby 2009 Fifteen 10 White Paso had from California. Attractive litchi and yellow stone fruit Robles ($28) 89 This white Rhone blend is quite straight- show on the nose, but it’s the palate that impresses most forward, offering yellow and white stone on a soft, lush with superb concentration of classic Viognier white peach palate that finishes with good length and a spicy peach flavors on a smooth, well-balanced palate with the uplift- note. A blend of 24% Viognier, 33% Roussanne, and 43% ing acidity that many New World Viogniers lack. Excel- Marsanne sourced from the Derby Vineyard in west Paso. lent. Eberle 2010 Côtes du Robles Blanc Paso Robles ($22) Derby 2007 Implico Paso Robles ($32) 92 A Bordeaux 90 This is a pleasantly aromatic wine with a full-flavored, blend that sees extensive aging prior to release--36 months round and creamy palate revealing white stonefruit with a in 82% new French oak and 20 months in bottle--this wine hint of vanilla. Well-balanced and refreshing with linger- offers a beautiful defined structure and fresh, clean flavors. ing acidity. A blend of Roussanne (44%), Grenache Blanc Dark fruit, earth, licorice, and cedar combine with firm, (28%), and Viognier (28%) aged sur lie in French oak ripe tannins to offer a rich wine that’s ready to drink now. (20% new) for 9 months and then blended. Would pair su- Very fairly priced. A blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon perbly with simply prepared chicken breast. Eberle 2008 and 22% Merlot, both from east Paso, and 22% Cabernet Côtes du Robles Paso Robles ($22) 89 This GSM reveals a Franc and 17% Petit Verdot from west Paso. Derby 2007 spicy, blackberry nose and a full body of earth, black fruit Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($26) 92 A powerful and beauti- and toasted oak, finishing with chalky mineral notes and fully concentrated wine, the Petite Sirah offers a nose of gritty tannins. A blend of 35% Grenache, 34% Mourvèdre, smoke, charred meat and toasted oak followed by an and 31% Syrah. Eberle 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon attack of sweet, dense blackberry with spice and savory Paso Robles ($34) 90+ An earthy, Old World style wine notes. It finishes long with a sweet, pure fruit aftertaste. showing dark fruit and hints of forest floor on the nose. The Aged 34 months in 80% new American and French oak. palate is rich, layered, and complex, revealing fresh and The fruit comes from Laura’s Vineyard in east Paso. dried black fruit, underbrush, and earth. Aged 18 months in French oak, 25% new. Ready to drink now. Eberle 2010 Dunning Vineyards Estate Winery In 1991 Bob and Estate Chardonnay Paso Robles ($20) 88 Ripe stone fruit Jo-Ann Dunning began planting their 40 acre Willow and toasted oak show on the nose. The palate is balanced Creek vineyard to mainly Bordeaux varieties, later and creamy with subtle fruit flavors. It finishes with a light adding Zinfandel and Syrah. The vineyard is 1400’ herbal note. Eberle 2010 Estate Muscat Canelli Paso Ro- high with soils that are rocky limestone. Bob Dunning is bles ($15) 89 This off dry wine would pair well with spicy, winemaker. www.dunningvineyards.com ethnic cuisine. It offers fragrances and flavors of passion fruit, lychee, and rose petals. It’s bright on the palate with Dunning Vineyards 2009 Meritage Paso Robles ($32) 88 notable sweetness. Eberle 2010 Syrah Steinbeck Vine- This Bordeaux blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% yard Paso Robles ($24) 91 Big rich aromas and flavors of Merlot, and 10% Cabernet France has somewhat subdued blackberry fruit with notes of chocolate, dark loam, and aromatics, revealing black cherry note. There’s more fruit underbrush. Finished with good extract and dry tannins. on the palate, along with a big tannic grip. Dunning Aged in half French and half American oak for 18 months. Vineyards 2010 Petite Sirah Reserve Paso Robles ($45) 88+ Eberle 2008 Zinfandel Paso Robles ($26) 88 Red and black This Petite Sirah offers good varietal character, revealing fruit and forest floor show on the nose of this Zinfandel fresh, dark red fruit with a note of milk chocolate. It finishes sourced from two vineyards--Steinbeck and Wine-bus. with dry tannins. Dunning Vineyards 2010 Private Reserve Soft on the attack, the smooth palate reveals earth, dried Zinfandel Paso Robles ($38) 90 The Zinfandel shows dark herbs, and black fruit. Aged 16 months in American oak, spice and loam and black forest cake on the nose. It has 20% new. Wines Also Tasted: Eberle 2011 Viognier a nice soft velvet like palate with thick dark red plum fruit

22 Paso Robles , Eberle 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah Paso Epoch 2011 Estate White Paso Robles ($35) 90 This Rhone Robles white blend (70% Grenache Blanc, 20% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne) reveals a fragrant nose of sweet, white stone Écluse Wines Steve and Pam Lock purchased land in fruit and a supple, delicately flavored palate balanced 1997 on Kiler Canyon Road near today’s Terry Hoage by citrus acidity. Fermented in neutral oak and stainless Vineyard and planted the 30 acre Lock Vineyard to steel barrels. Epoch 2011 Estate Rosé Paso Robles ($25) Bordeaux and, later, Rhone varieties. Much of the fruit 89 This wine shows exactly what one wants from a rosé- continues to be sold to Chateau Margene, RN Estate, -fresh red fruit nuances on a dry palate complemented Linne Calodo and other wineries. Steve began making by exhilarating acidity. It’s a blend of 65% Syrah that is wine with the 2001 vintage and acts as his own wine- whole cluster pressed and 35% Grenache done saignée maker. The winery was built in 2008. The wines have method. Epoch 2009 Ingenuity Paso Robles ($55) 93 The complex and interesting flavors. www.eclusewines.com 2009 Ingenuity is an impressively big and nuanced wine with an enticing nose of violet and spicy black pepper and Écluse Wines 2010 Prelude Paso Robles ($28) 89 This is a a layered, dense palate revealing a mélange of red and delicate white Rhone blend of 48% Viognier, 28% Rous- black fruit, finishing with sweet, ripe tannins. A blend of sanne, and 24% Grenache Blanc. It offers a fine perfume 64% Syrah, 12% Petite Sirah, 12% Mourvèdre, 7% Gr- of stone fruit and a fresh fruited palate with good acid enache, and 4% Zinfandel aged 23 months in 42% new balance. A refreshing and well made wine. Écluse Wines French oak. Epoch 2009 Sensibility Paso Robles ($55) 2007 Rendition Paso Robles ($38) 91 The 2007 Rendition 92 This is a full-bodied easy drinking, medium ruby red is a delicious blend of 52% Syrah, 42% Grenache, and GSM that shows hints of vanilla and candied cherry on the 6% Zinfandel. It is an impressive, rich and well-balanced nose that’s full and suave in the mouth. Delicious. A blend wine showing dusty, meaty aromas and a layered palate of 75% Grenache, 21% Mourvèdre, and 4% Syrah aged of dark red fruit with hints of tobacco, earth and choco- 23 months in 30% new French oak. Epoch 2009 Syrah late. Écluse Wines 2010 Syrah Paso Robles ($34) 90 A Block B Paso Robles ($55) 94 This 100% Syrah (Clone 174) rich Syrah that combines prominent earth, smoke and dried is a barrel selection from a special block of the Paderewski herbs with ripe red plum and dark cherry fruit. It has a Vineyard. It’s a savory, very serious wine with an expres- suave palate and ripe tannins that make it ready to drink sive and focused palate of minerals, black fruit, spice and now. Wines Also Tasted: Écluse Wines 2009 Improv Paso dried herbs. One of the best Paso Syrahs we’ve tasted. Robles, Écluse Wines 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Lock Vine- Aged 23 months in French barrels and puncheons, 43% yard Paso Robles new. Epoch 2009 Tempranillo Paso Robles ($50) 91 This 100% Tempranillo reveals a perfumed nose of dark fresh Eos Estate Winery Eos is part of the large Foley Family and dried cherry with savory herbal notes that are mir- Wines portfolio, which also owns Sebastiani Vineyards rored on the palate. The long finish also shows assertive and Chalk Hill in Sonoma, Firestone in Santa Barbara, tannins that require some aging to soften. Aged 23 months and several other wineries. Eos was founded by the in new French oak. Epoch 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles Arciero family in 1985 and sold in 2007, after which it ($50) 92 This dark ruby red Zinfandel (94% Zinfandel, 6% found itself in severe financial difficulties. In late 2010 Mourvèdre) is one of Paso’s finest. A sweet perfume of rich it was purchased by Bill Foley. Production is about cherry and pomegranate lead to an expressive, layered 216 thousand cases per year. The wines we tasted are and silky palate with a succulent finish of ultra fine tannins. entry level wines of good value. www.eosvintage.com Aged 20 months in French barrels and puncheons, 30% new. Eos Estate Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($20) 88 Very good for the price. Red fruit and sweet Grey Wolf Vineyards and Cellars Family owned and vanilla oak show on the nose, while the palate has a soft, operated, Joe and Shirlene Barton established Grey sweet character to it. Nicely balanced with good structure. Wolf Cellars in 1994 and planted the estate vineyard in Eos Estate Winery 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles ($18) 88 1998. They produce Rhone blends, Zinfandel , Tempra- This Zinfandel blend (81% Zinfandel, 14% Petite Sirah, 2% nillo and some stand out whites. The winemaker is Joe Syrah, 2% Merlot) delivers a sweet fruited palate and a Barton Jr. www.greywolfcellars.com persistent finish. Aromas and flavors tend to dark red plum . and cherry with a hint of sandalwood. Grey Wolf Cellars 2011 Barton Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles ($20) 88 Light yellow straw in color, the wine shows Epoch Estate Wines This winery is the passion of vint- green fig, passion fruit and a hint of lemon zest on the ners, Bill and Liz Armstrong. Their wines are outstand- nose. The body has good weight and a long, clean finish. ing, sourced from their superb Paderewski Vineyard Grey Wolf Cellars 2011 Chenin Blanc Paso Robles ($25) 90 (65 acres) and Catapult Vineyard (30 acres). They also This is an unusual variety for Paso Robles, but winemaker recently purchased the historic 150 acre York Mountain Joe Barton has done a superb job with it. Pale yellow Winery property which is expected to become Epoch’s straw in color, light yellow peach with mineral notes shows home. Their winemaker is the talented Jordan Fio- on the nose, and the palate has a creaminess to it that is rentini, and friend, Justin Smith of Saxum, serves as nicely balanced by brisk acidity and chalky minerals on consulting winemaker. Epochwww.epochwines.com the finish. The wine is fermented in concrete and aged in

23 used puncheons. Grey Wolf Cellars 2009 Barton E Street 8% Malbec. Halter Ranch 2008 The Ancestor Paso Robles Tempranillo Paso Robles ($45) 90 Made from Booker ($44) 89 A Bordeaux blend made from the best barrels, Vineyard fruit, this medium ruby color Tempranillo is typical this wine shows a nose of violets, chocolate and dark fruit of the variety. Red cherry and plum show on the nose and and an opulent, expressive palate of dark red fruit, bram- are mirrored on the palate, along with strong vanilla oak bles, blueberry and toasted oak. Dry tannins show on both and ripe tannins Grey Wolf Cellars 2010 Jackal Zinfandel the mid-palate and the finish. Paso Robles ($28) 89 This blend of 90% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah is an easy wine to like. It offers a very Hope Family Wines/Treana Austin Hope, who grew up fruit nose of dark red cherry and earth and a similarly fruit- in Paso Robles in his family vineyard, makes wine under laden palate--concentrated and very fresh. The mouthfeel his own name and produces red and white Rhone is soft, and the acid balance leaves nothing to be desired. blends for the Treana label. In 1978 the Hope family A real crowd pleaser. planted their first vineyard in Paso Robles. In 2000 the Austin Hope Winery was created to focus on high end, Halter Ranch Hansjörg Wyss, a Swiss-born business- hand-crated Rhone style wines with Austin Hope as man, purchased 960 acres of the original 3600 acre chief winemaker and Jason Diefenderfer as winemaker. Edwin Smith ranch on Adelaida Road in 2000, re- All the wines are made from estate fruit grown in the named it Halter Ranch, and proceeded to plant vines. rocky, clay and limestone soils of the Hope Family Vine- Today there are 250 acres planted to 20 different yard located in the Templeton Gap area. Bordeaux and Rhone varieties on the steep, limestone www.hopefamilywines.com rich hillsides reaching to 1800’ in altitude. The vineyard is SIP certified. Kevin Sass is winemaker; he was Austin Hope 2010 Grenache Paso Robles ($42) 91 Made previously associate winemaker at Justin. Given their from estate grapes grown on the Hope Family Vineyard vineyard site and the meticulous management practices, in the Templeton Gap region, the 2010 Grenache exhibits we expect Halter to soon make significantly better excellent depth of flavor, a suave palate and a super long wines. www.halterranch.com finish. Dark cherry and plum with earth and leather notes show on the nose and on the palate. Fermented in open Halter Ranch 2011 Côtes de Paso Blanc Paso Robles ($24) top tanks and aged 9 months in French oak. Austin Hope 90 This is an attractive white Rhone blend showing a NV Troublemaker Blend 3 Paso Robles ($18) 88 This is a nose of ripe pear, white pepper, and sweet white melon. unique wine that blends four Rhone varieties--Syrah (55%), It’s soft with a creamy-lanolin like palate of light pear and Grenache (20%), Mourvèdre (20%), and Petite Sirah peach complemented by tangy acidity, chalky minerals, (5%)--across three vintages--2010 (20%), 2009 (65%), and and tangerine notes. Shows excellent balance. A blend of 2008 (15%) with between 3 and 12 months oak aging 33% Grenache, 26% Roussanne, and 20% Picpoul Blanc, depending on the vintage. The wine is rustic in style, show- with lesser amounts of Marsanne, and Viognier fermented ing pepper and spice on the nose and a soft, round palate in French oak and aged sur lie 4 months in neutral French with dark fruit and savory herbal and mushroom notes. oak barrels. Halter Ranch 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Austin Hope 2010 Syrah Paso Robles ($42) 92 This wine Robles ($28) 88+ A dark ruby Bordeaux blend revealing is made from the 383, 470 and Alban clones that are aromas of cassis, tobacco and mocha with a lush, velvet sorted by block, open top fermented and aged in new like palate that finishes with firm tannins. A blend of 77% French oak for 9 months prior to blending and spending Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, and 11% Merlot aged another 3 months in oak. It shows aromas of ripe blue fruit 18 months in 35% new French oak. Halter Ranch 2010 and grilled meat. Opulent and richly extracted, the wine Cotes de Paso Red Paso Robles ($29) 89 A Rhone red reveals blueberries, violets, and freshly cracked pepper blend, the wine shows a sweet perfume of spicy dark red on a full-throttled palate. One of Paso Robles’ best Syrahs. fruit. It’s soft on the attack and mouth filling with layers of Hope Family NV Troublemaker Blend 3 ($20) 88 This is a red and black fruit, good acidity, and firm tannins on the unique wine that blends four Rhone varieties--Syrah (55%), finish. A blend of 49% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 17% Grenache (20%), Mourvèdre (20%), and Petite Sirah Syrah, with lesser amounts of Tannat and Counoise aged (5%)--across three vintages--2010 (20%), 2009 (65%), and 14 months in 20% new French oak. Halter Ranch 2011 2008 (15%) with between 3 and 12 months oak aging Rosé Paso Robles ($16) 88 This is a refreshing and pleas- depending on the vintage. The wine is rustic in style, show- ant Southern Rhone style rosé made of 44% Grenache, ing pepper and spice on the nose and a soft, round palate 28% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, and 8% Picpoul Blanc. Fresh with dark fruit and savory herbal and mushroom notes. with a soft palate of red berry fruit, it shows good acidity. Hope Family Wines Treana 2009 Red Paso Robles ($45) It’s especially pleasant to drink over lunch on the veranda 90 The Treana Red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and of Edwin Smith’s Victorian house on the Halter Ranch. Syrah. It has a dark ruby color and aromas and flavors of Halter Ranch 2009 Syrah Paso Robles ($29) 89 While black fruit with hints of cedar and licorice. It is soft and quite expressive on the nose and palate, the Syrah shows lush on the attack (15 alc) with an elegant texture, concen- dry tannins on the mid-palate and big, firm tannins on the trated flavors, firm tannins and a long finish. finish. It has a pleasant bouquet of blackberry, smoke and garrigue, and violets, dark red fruit and chocolate show on the palate. A blend of 81% Syrah, 11% Grenache, and

24 Hug Cellars Hug Cellars was started in 1994 by Augie J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Jerry Lohr is one of the Cen- and Raquel Hug. They source fruit from some of the tral Coast wine pioneers. He started planting Bordeaux best growers in Paso Robles—Booker Vineyard, Terry varieties as well as Syrah and Petite Sirah in Paso Hoage Vineyard, Cedar Lane Vineyard, etc. Current Robles in 1988 and today has 2 thousand acres of production is about 2000 cases. Augie Hug is wine- vines in the appellation. J. Lohr produces several lines maker. Hug sources fruit from throughout the Central of wines including high quality, small lot wines of about Coast area. We review only those from Paso Robles. 400 cases each. Jeff Meier is director of winemak- www.hugcellars.com ing. J. Lohr demonstrates that with meticulous viticulture and careful winemaking excellent wines can be made Hug Cellars 2010 El Magnifico Zinfandel Paso Robles ($29) in commercial quantities from vineyards throughout the 89+ This 100% Zinfandel sourced from the La Vista and Paso Robles AVA. www.jlohr.com Cushman Vineyards offers a perfumed, red-fruited nose and a ripe, lush and velvet textured, medium weight palate J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée St. E Paso Robles ($50) 92 A rich wine of dark red fruit and herbs. Matured in used French oak. patterned after those of St. Emilion, it offers ripe black- Hug Cellars 2008 Booker Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon berry and lead pencil on the nose. Soft and lush on the ($65) 90 Sourced from one of Paso Robles’ premium attack, the palate is velvet soft with bright, dark fruit and vineyards, this is a powerful wine with rich aromas of dark violet and mineral notes that carry to the finish. Excellent. A cherry, chocolate and tobacco and a rich and densely blend of 43% Cabernet Franc, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, flavored, velvet soft palate, finishing on a creamy note with 10% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot. J. Lohr 2011 Gesture gentle tannins. Would score higher were it not for the dis- Grenache Rosé Paso Robles ($18) 89 This light, bright tinct presence of alcohol. Wines Also Tasted: Hug Cellars pink rosé is considerably more nuanced on the palate than 2008 El Grande Syrah Paso Robles, most California rosés. The nose is floral, redolent of dried roses, sage, and light red berry. It’s soft on the attack with J. Dusi Wines Janell Dusi is making wine from her mineral notes. The fruit comes from both the San Miguel family’s 80 year old, head trained, dry farmed Zinfan- and Willow Creek districts. Picked at 22.7° Brix to retain del vineyard. The Dusi Vineyard was planted by her acidity. J. Lohr 2010 Gesture GSM Paso Robles ($35) 91 Italian immigrant grandparents. Janell makes old vine The 2010 Gesture is an attractive richly endowed blend Zinfandel and Carignan from the Dusi Vineyard. She of 75% Grenache, 21% Shiraz, and 45 Mataro. It has a also makes Pinot Gris and Syrah from other vineyards. dark ruby color and aromas of red and black fruit with The wines we tasted are notable for their fresh, easy a hint of Asian spices. It is firmly structured and linear on drinking quality. www.jdusiwines.com the palate with firm tannins and a persistent finish. J. Lohr 2010 Gesture Zinfindel Paso Robles ($25) 92 Made from J Dusi Wines 2009 Fiorentino Paso Robles ($38) 91+ A head-trained, dry-farmed west Paso vines, this Zinfandel is unique and very well made Zinfandel blend, this medium rich, ripe and mouth filling with a velvet smooth, balanced dark ruby wine is fruit forward with berries and plum, palate with soft chalky tannins on the finish. It shows spicy earth, and a touch of toasted oak on the nose, followed red cherry and raspberry fruit with loam and earth notes. by a soft attack. The palate shows layers of flavors--black J. Lohr 2009 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles cherry, red plum, blueberr--and lovely, ripe tannins on a ($35) 91 A beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon based blend lingering, fruity finish. Blend of 50% Zinfandel, 25% Cari- made from self-rooted clone 7 vines on this special, estate gnan, and 25% Syrah. J Dusi Wines 2011 Pinot Gris Paso vineyard and its highly varied soils. The wine is beautifully Robles ($16) 89 Stainless steel fermented, the Pinot Gris balanced with ripe tannins, showing notes of blackberry, is refreshingly crisp with light, elegant citrus flavors and a cassis, violet, and mocha on an impressively deep and clean, mineral note. An easy sipper sourced from the new, layered palate. Blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Kyler Canyon Vineyard. J Dusi Wines 2009 Zinfandel Petite Sirah, 3% Syrah, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Caber- Paso Robles ($29) 89 Fresh and elegant with light red net Franc. J. Lohr 2010 Los Osos Merlot Paso Robles berry and cherry fruit and earth and stem notes, this is a ($15) 88+ This is a an especially delicious Merlot for the very pleasant, uncomplicated wine. Very judiciously oaked money. It reveals fresh dark fruit with blueberry notes, a with just 10% new. Fruit is from the Dante Dusi Vineyard. softly textured palate, and accessible tannins. A blend of 78% Merlot, 17% Malbec, 4% Zinfandel, 1% Petit Verdot. Very good value! J. Lohr 2010 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($18) 89 An excellent, entry level Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine shows good balance, a soft texture, accessible tannins and slightly jammy fruit. Quite straightforward in style. J. Lohr 2010 South Ridge Syrah Paso Robles ($15) 88 Made from fruit sourced from the Estrella Hills, this wine reveals lovely pure blackberry fruit aromas, a soft and elegant attack, and a medium weight, modestly fruited palate. Very good value for the money. J. Lohr 2010 Tower Road Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($35) 92

25 A beautiful, black-fruited blockbuster, this is one of Paso’s Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended in. It is an incred- best Petite Sirah wines. Fragrant blackberry fruit, violets, ibly rich and complex wine with a velvet smooth, layered and baking chocolate show on the nose. The palate is palate and beautiful structure. Dark cherry, red plum, huge--very rich and deeply flavored with dark loam and violets, chocolate, coconut, and tobacco spice all put in minerals added to the dense fruit core. Aged 15+ months an appearance. Aged 24 months in French oak, 64% in 1st and 2nd use French oak. J.Lohr Vineyards 2008 new. Many consumers will purchase and consume this Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) wine now, but we strongly recommend waiting a couple of 91+ As usual, the Hilltop Cabernet is incredibly rich and years. Justin Vineyards 2010 Justification Paso Robles ($48) deep, showing notes of inky blackberry, violets, espresso 92 A dark red Bordeaux blend (64% Cabernet Franc, and dark chocolate. It has a soft, supple attack, velvet 36% Merlot). Dark red fruit, tobacco, cedar and herbal- smooth mouthfeel, and sweet, ripe tannins. A blend of 76% leafy aromas and flavors show the wine’s Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, and heritage. It is exceptionally well-balanced and delivers an 7% Petite Sirah. J.Lohr Vineyards 2008 Cuvée PAU Paso impressive depth of flavor that continues to the finish. Ma- Robles ($50) 91+ The Cuvee PAU (for Pauillac) reveals tured 18 months in 41% new French oak. Justin Vineyards a beautiful nose of earth, dark loam, and black fruit. It’s 2010 Savant Paso Robles ($45) 89+ This Syrah based soft on the attack with a creamy palate that is balanced blend is soft and fleshy with rich, ripe fruit. Blackberry, and integrated with flavors of mushroom and forest floor chocolate, and notes of violets and roasted meat provide on the finish. J.Lohr Vineyards 2007 Cuvée POM Paso for a very flavorful, fruit forward wine. A blend of 77% Robles ($50) 93 Cuvée POM is inspired by the wines of Syrah, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Grenache aged Pomerol and is predominantly (81%) Merlot based with 16 months in French oak, 63% new. Wines Also Tasted: Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) and Petit Verdot in the blend, Justin Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles, Justin too. The Merlot comes from the Creston Vineyard near El Vineyards 2005 Isosceles Paso Robles Pomar. The very dry 2007 vintage led to low yields and small berries. The wine has an inky nose and palate of Kenneth Volk Vineyards Ken Volk’s winery is in Santa blue and black fruit and a note of charred oak. It shows Barbara County at the original Byron Winery, but he a creamy palate and silky tannins. J.Lohr Vineyards 2010 makes wine from grapes purchased in Paso Robles Gesture Syrah Paso Robles ($35) 90+ Dark ruby in color, as well as elsewhere. He finds that Paso Merlot has this Syrah blend is highly aromatic with a brightly flavored, a richness not found elsewhere in California, and he spicy fruited palate and long flavorful finish. Dense ripe sources Merlot fruit from the Carmody McKnight and blackberry runs throughout the wine, from the first whiff to El Pomar Junction Vineyards. He also makes Cabernet the last aftertaste. A blend of 83% Syrah, 16% Grenache, Sauvignon, Aglianico, Blaufrankisch, Touriga Nacional, 1% Mourvèdre. Zinfandel, and Roussanne from Paso Robles fruit. Ken previously started Wild Horse Winery and has won Justin Vineyards & Winery In 1981 Justin and Debo- numerous awards for his winemaking and for his role in rah Baldwin purchased 160 acres of land in the developing and promoting the Central Coast. Adelaide Valley west of Paso Robles and planted 72 www.volkwines.com acres of Bordeaux varieties. In the years since, Justin has become one of Paso’s best known wineries, espe- Kenneth Volk Vineyards 2010 Verdelho Paso Robles ($24) cially famous for its Isosceles red blend. Justin has 90 Another wine made from Pomar Junction Vineyard long term contractual relationships with more than a fruit, the Verdelho shows fresh, crisp citrus on the nose and dozen other growers. Justin was purchased by Stewart amazing fruit depth on the palate for this variety. Finishes Resnick, owner of the Fiji Water company, in 2010. In with bright acidity and a chalky mineral note. Kenneth 2012, Scott Shirley was named winemaker at Justin; he Volk Vineyards 2008 Aglianico Paso Robles ($36) 89 A previously was winemaker at Opus One and the Hess grape more commonly found in Campania, Aglianico can Collection in Napa. www.justinwine.com also be found at the Pomar Junction Vineyard, which is where the fruit comes from for this dark ruby wine. Fruit Justin Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles forward notes of raspberry and blueberry with a hint of ($25) 88+ Sourced from several Paso vineyards, this is chocolate show on the nose, while the well-rounded palate a very good entry level Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows adds licorice and spice, finishing with firm tannins. Deli- expressive dark cherry fruit with light herbaceous and cious to drink now. Kenneth Volk Vineyards 2009 Blau- vanilla oak notes, finishing with good flavor and length. frankisch Paso Robles ($36) 90 We’ve tasted lots of Blau- Drinkable now. Spends 18 months in 25% new American frankisch in Austria, and this wine doesn’t disappoint in oak. Justin Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve comparison. It’s medium red in color with spicy, red cherry Paso Robles ($45) 90+ The Reserve shows lots of very on the nose that carries over to the palate with a candied ripe cassis and sweet toasted oak aromas and flavors on a note. It shows outstanding fruit purity, finishing with fine, nicely structured palate that’s silky and sweet. Finishes with firm tannins. Kenneth Volk Vineyards 2008 Touriga Na- firm tannins. Still very young, this wine will develop more cional Paso Robles ($36) 91 In Portugal, of course, some character with bottle age. Justin Vineyards 2009 Isosceles fabulous table wines are made from Touriga Nacional, but Paso Robles ($62) 93 One of Paso Robles’ iconic wines, with just 157 acres planted in California it’s a difficult wine the Isosceles is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon with additional to find. Ken makes this wine from Touriga planted in the

26 Pomar Junction Vineyard. It would fare very well in a side ing vineyards. It is a fruit-forward cuvee that offers dark by side comparison with its Portuguese counterparts. It has cherry fruit with a hint of red licorice. It is soft, lush and refined aromas of violet, red plum and cherry with a soft expressive on the palate with good intensity of layered attack and pure fruit, deep and layered, on the palate. flavors, ripe tannins and a long finish. Linne Calodo 2010 Rising Tides Paso Robles ($62) 92 The 2010 Rising Tides is L’ Aventure Winery This winery is owned by wine- a blend of 39% Syrah, 35% Grenache, and 26% Mourvè- maker, Stephan Asseo, a transplanted Bordelais, who dre. It offer aromas and flavors of red plum, huckleberry, since 1998 has crafted some of the finest wines in cracked pepper, and smoke notes. It is full and lush on the Paso Robles. His winery and vineyard are located in palate with savory, saline notes, and chalky tannins. While the Willow Creek district. His Estate Cuvée, a blend somewhat closed when tasted, it has good underlying fruit. of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Verdot, is Give it time. Linne Calodo 2009 Sticks n Stones ($72) 93 favored by L’ Aventure followers and us too. Stick and Stones is a lovely Grenache based blend com- www.aventurewine.com posed of 64% Grenache, 49% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah. Sourced from Booker, Denner, Caliza and Linne Calodo L ‘ Aventure Winery 2010 Optimus Paso Robles ($45) 90 vineyards, it displays an opaque ruby hue and complex The 2010 Optimus is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, aromas of savory red plum fruit and chalky minerals with Syrah and Petite Verdot. It displays a dark ruby color with hints of saline. It is soft on the attack with a velvet texture, complex aromas and flavors of black fruit, earth and lico- elegant mouth feel and round tannins. A terrific GSM. rice. Aged in 90% new French oak, it shows velvety soft Linne Calodo 2010 Martyr Paso Robles ($100) 92 The tannins and a long finish. Easy to drink and enjoyable. L 2010 Martyr is a blend of 77% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah ‘ Aventure Winery 2010 Cote a Cote Paso Robles ($85) 92 and small amounts of Grenache and Syrah. It offers lovely A blend of 14% Grenache, 34% Syrah, and 42% Mourvè- aromas of blueberry and violets on the nose with a touch dre, this GSM is a magnificent wine offering aromas and of black raspberry, toast and earth. It is soft on the attack flavors of black currant, tobacco and licorice. Aged in and on the palate with dense red-black fruit. It has rich, 50% new French oak and 50% second use, it is soft and ripe tannins and a long flavorful finish. Linne Calodo 2005 lush on the palate with ripe round tannins and a long fin- Martyr Paso Robles ($100) 95 The 2005 Martyr consists of ish. L ‘ Aventure Winery 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 68% Mourvèdre, 29% Syrah and 3% Grenache. It is an Paso Robles ($80) 92 The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is earthy wine with savory dark red plum, violets, loam and sourced from the estate’s top 5-6 blocks. It is a delicious mushroom notes. It exhibits sweet extract on the mid-pal- wine showing pure ripe black fruit flavors, toasted oak and ate and has a long finish with a hint of white pepper. hints of violets. It is beautifully structured with excellent balance and a long finish. A superb wine. L ‘ Aventure Lone Madrone Tablas Creek’s veteran winemaker Neil Winery 2010 Estate Cuvée Paso Robles ($45) 94 This is an Collins and his sister Jackie Meisinger produce small opulent blend of 42% Syrah, 42 % Cabernet Sauvignon lots of well-crafted, single varietal and blended wines and 16% Petit Verdot from the estate’s best blocks. It offers from dry farmed vineyards in the limestone hills of west aromas and flavors of ripe and flavorful cassis and licorice Paso Robles. It is Neil Collins’ personal project, and with soft round tannins and a long lush finish. his wines are of exceptional value given their quality. www.lonemadrone.com Linne Calodo Cellars Founded in 1998 by Justin Smith, now owner of Saxum, and Matt Trevisan, Linne Calodo Lone Madrone 2010 Chenin Blanc Paso Robles ($25) 90 is today one of Paso’s finest wineries with its own vine- The 2010 Chenin Blanc is sourced from 40 year old dry- yard in the Willow Creek area. Matt Trevisan serves as farmed, head-pruned vines. It offers light stonefruit aromas winemaker and crafts small quantities of outstanding and hints of beeswax and chamomile. Crisp on the palate, and unusual blends of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre it reveals minerals and a touch of earth and a long fin- and Zinfandel. The wines are complex, often savory ish. Lone Madrone 2011 Picpoul Blanc Glenrose Vineyard and earthy, and need time to mature. The grapes are Paso Robles ($25) 90 This is a highly successful 100% New sourced from Linne Calodo’s 18 acre estate vineyard World Picpoul Blanc. It offers a light gold hue, orange and neighboring vineyards in west Paso Robles. flowers with rich, sake notes on the nose followed by ripe www.linnecalodo.com citrus and chalky mineral nuances on the palate. It is full- bodied and has intense, refined flavors.A joy to drink. Linne Calodo 2010 Cherry Red Paso Robles ($55) 93 Lone Madrone 2010 Point’s West White Paso Robles ($28) Cherry Red is a delicious blend of 70% Zinfandel, 20% 91 The Point’s West White is a delicious Rhone blend of Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. Opaque ruby red in color, 44% Roussanne, 27% Viognier, 15% Marsanne and 14% it offers lovely aromas and flavors of dark cherry and Picpoul Blanc. It offers a fruit rich nose of melon and raspberry with a light grilled meat note. On the palate, it stone fruit with just a hint of toast. It has ripe fruit flavors is chewy, fat and unctuous with ripe dense flavors. This is on the palate with a crisp and creamy mouth feel, some a big wine that is well-balanced with a long finish. Linne earthy nuances, and a long citrus finish. Lone Madrone Calodo 2010 Outsider Zinfandel Paso Robles ($55) 92 The 2006 Nebbiolo Paso Robles ($25) 89 The 100% Nebbiolo Outsider is a blend of 80% Zinfandel, 17% Syrah, and reveals a light ruby color and effusive dark cherry fruit 3% Mourvèdre sourced from the estate and neighbor- with earth and herbal notes. Aged in 100% new 500L

27 puncheons for three years, it boasts concentrated flavors Peachy Canyon Winery 2009 Ms Behave Malbec Paso on the palate with notable acidity and excellent structure. Robles ($32) 90 The 2009 Ms Behave is a blend of 75% Lone Madrone 2008 Points West Red Paso Robles ($28) Malbec and 25% Petite Sirah. It boasts a dark purple 91 The Points West Red is a blend of 61% Mourvèdre and color and aromas of blackberry, black cherry, chocolate 39% Syrah. It offers lovely, spicy plum fruit and cassis and loam with sweet oak. On the palate, it is lush and full aromas and excellent depth of flavor on the palate with a. bodied with good depth of flavor, silky tannins and a long velvet texture, soft round tannins and a rich finish. Sourced finish. Peachy Canyon Winery 2010 Petite Sirah Paso Ro- from the excellent Glenrose Vineyard. Lone Madrone bles ($32) 89 The 2010 Petite Sirah offers ripe blackberry 2007 Roussanne Points West Paso Robles ($30) 89 The fruit with lots of sweet oak aromas. It is soft and lush on the 2007 Roussanne Points West displays aromas and flavors palate with ripe fruit flavors and notes of chocolate. The of pear, melon, minerals and spice. It is soft, rich and full- wine is nicely structured with soft round tannins and a long bodied on the palate with a touch of lanolin and a flavor- finish with lingering oak. Peachy Canyon Winery 2010 ful finish. Snow Zinfandel Paso Robles ($38) 90 The Snow Zinfandel displays a medium ruby color with aromas and flavors of Niner Wine Estates This winery was founded in 2001 red berry fruit with hints of black cherry and leather. It is by businessman Richard Niner and his wife Pam. The light-bodied and flavorful with good structure and finesse, winery uses only estate-grown fruit from two vineyards: firm tannins and a lengthy finish. Peachy Canyon Winery Bootjack Ranch, a 224 acre property nine miles east 2010 Zinfandel Mustard Creek Paso Robles ($38) 91 The of Paso Robles, and Heart Hill, a 139 acre property on 2010 Mustard Creek is a lush, full-bodied blockbuster of a the west side. A UC Davis graduate, Amanda Cramer wine co-fermented with a small amount of Petite Sirah. It has been winemaker since 2004; prior to joining Niner boasts ripe red and black fruit flavors, toasted oak, and she worked at Lapostolle in Chile and D’Arenberg in hints of tobacco and loam. It reveals concentrated dark Australia. Niner wines are reasonably priced and red and blue berry fruit on the palate with a rich texture, good value for the money. Niner is SIP certified. youthful tannic grip, and a warm alcoholic finish. www.ninerwine.com Pear Valley Vineyard This winery is owned and oper- Niner Wine Estates 2008 Petite Sirah Bootjack Ranch Paso ated by Tom and Kathleen Maas. Launched in 1999, it Robles ($24) 90 Niner’s Petite Sirah exhibits an opaque currently consists of 113 acres. SIP-certified, it follows ruby color and is a blend of 86% Petite Sirah and 14% sustainable farming practices. All Pear Valley Vineyard Syrah. Aged in a mix of American, French and Hungarian wines are produced from estate vineyards. oak, it offers black fruit aromas and flavors with hints of www.pearvalley.com herbs and tobacco. It is nicely balanced with good flavor intensity, round tannins and a dry finish. Niner Wine Es- Pear Valley 2009 Merlot ($18) 88 This is a pleasant drink- tates 2008 Syrah Bootjack Ranch Paso Robles ($20) 89 The ing, good entry level wine with good, slightly jammy red 2008 Syrah is dark ruby in color with aromas and flavors fruit and assertive tannic grip. Pear Valley 2011 Orange of black fruit and toasted oak. Aged in small French and Muscat ($14) 88 An incredible value in a sweet wine, the Hungarian oak barrels, about one-third new, it is ripe and Orange Muscat reveals a fresh nose of yellow melon and mouth filling albeit slightly reductive. ripe pear and a soft, lanolin like palate with an added yellow peach note. Serve cold, over ice or with mineral water. Parrish Family Vineyards David Parrish, a UC Davis Pear Valley 2009 Charbono ($28) 88 The only Charbono grad, planted his 40 acre Creston vineyard to four dif- we’ve tasted from Paso Robles, the wine is earthy with red ferent clones of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1995 and has fruit and Asian spice aromas and flavors, showing good been making his own wine since 2004. The Silken is flavor density. Also tasted: Pear Valley 2009 Distraction; the only wine we tasted. Pear Valley 2011 Rose

Parrish 2009 Silken ($40) 89 This blend of Cabernet Sau- Pomar Junction Vineyard & Winery The Merrill Family, vignon (27%), Petite Sirah (30%), and Petit Verdot (4%) has owners of Pomar Junction Vineyard and Winery, have a muted nose of dark cherry, charred oak, and minerals, been growing grapes on the Central Coast for more but the full-bodied palate is open and inviting, showing than eight generations. After growing grapes for many violets, dark fruit, bitter chocolate and quite firm tannins. of California’s finest wineries, they decided to produce their own wines. Jim Shumate, former consulting wine- Peachy Canyon This is a family winery located in maker at Templeton Wine Services, serves as winemak- Templeton that produces good quality, handcrafted er. All the wines are produced from estate-grown fruit. wines. It was established by Vintners Doug and Nancy www.pomarjunction.com Beckett in 1988. They have nearly100 acres of estate vineyards planted and produce 64,000 cases annually. Pomar Junction 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Paso Josh Beckett serves as winemaker. Peachy Canyon is Robles ($54) 91 The Pomar Junction 2008 Cabernet Sau- best known for its high quality Zinfandels. vignon Reserve is sourced from estate grown hillside fruit. www.peachycanyon.com Dark ruby in color, it is fruit forward and aromatic with spicy red and black currant fruit, violets and earth notes.

28 It has a medium-bodied palate with pure red berry and Red Soles Winery This winery located in Paso Robles’ cassis flavors, a soft velvet texture, round tannins, and a Templeton Gap is owned and operated by Randy and long finish. Pomar Junction 2008 Merlot Paso Robles ($28) Cheryl Soles. Currently the pair own two hundred 90 The 2008 Merlot is made entirely from estate fruit. It acres of vineyards, half of which are on the east side of displays aromas of red and blue fruit, vanilla, earth and Paso Robles, the other half are at the winery site in the brambles. It is lovely on the palate, complex and layered Templeton Gap. While most of their grapes are sold to with more blue and red fruit, toast, chocolate notes, and large wineries, they produce a considerable variety of soft round tannins on the finish. One of the finest single va- good quality wines. www.redsoleswinery.com rietal Merlots we’ve tasted in a long time. Pomar Junction 2009 Pinot Noir Paso Robles ($34) 90 Medium ruby red in Red Soles 2011 Viognier Paso Robles ($26) 90+ The color, this Pinot Noir displays ripe red plum with a cherry Red Soles Viognier in fragrant and fruit-forward offering note on the nose. It has a soft and very flavorful palate of aromas and flavors of fresh stone fruit. It crisp on the pal- ripe pure red cherry and raspberry. While not complex, it ate with good intensity of flavor, excellent balance with is elegant and nicely balanced with ripe tannins on the fin- a touch of bitterness on the finish. Well done. Red Soles ish. A delicious wine sourced from Pomar Junction estate 2010 Estate Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($38) 88+ This 2010 and one of the few being produced from Paso Robles. Petite Sirah offers meaty black and blue fruit aromas. It Pomar Junction 2010 Syrah Paso Robles ($34) 90 The 2010 is medium weight and has light fruit flavors on the palate Syrah offers fragrant blueberry fruit and vanilla on the with good structure and acidity and big tannic grip on nose. Aged for 15 months in 30% new French oak for 15 the finish. Red Soles 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve months, it reveals good flavor intensity on the palate, with Paso Robles ($42) 90 This is a good, nicely balanced wine good acidity and chalky notes on the finish. Other Wines showing rich blackberry, black cherry and toasted oak. It’s Tasted: Pomar Junction 2011 Syrah Rosé Paso Robles sweet and full on the palate with good depth and concentration. Other Wines Tasted: Red Soles 2011 Loose Laces Proulx This winery is owned and operated by Genoa Rosé Paso Robles and Kevin Riley. The Rileys source grapes from a 55-

year old estate dry-farmed vineyard and neighboring Robert Hall Winery This winery is tucked into the vineyards in the west part of Paso Robles. The winery hillsides east of Paso Robles. Established in 1995, it began operations in 2004 and today produces 1500 currently has 300 acres of wine grapes in production. cases of good quality wine. Kevin Riley is winemaker, The wines are made by veteran winemaker Don Brady, having learned his winemaking at Cal Poly. chosen as winemaker of the year in 2007 by the Paso www.proulxwines.com Robles Wine Country Alliance. www.roberthallwinery.com Proulx 2011 Grenache Rosé Paso Robles ($22) 89+ This is a tasty Grenache-based rosé offering aromas of straw- Robert Hall 2010 Viognier Paso Robles ($20) 88 The berry and red raspberry. It has good intensity of fruit on Viognier shows dried herbs, toasted oak and a hint of the palate with a somewhat dry chalky crisp finish. Well apricot on the nose. For a Viognier, there’s unusually high done. Proulx 2010 Red Label Zinfandel Swiss Colina Paso acidity on the palate with light flavors of honeydew and Robles ($30) 89 The Red Label Zinfandel is composed of white stonefruit. Judicious oaking gives the wine nice body 90% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. It has a dark ruby without over the top oak flavors. A 100% Viognier that color and aromas of black cherry and earth. It is soft on is 3/4 fermented in barrel. Robert Hall 2009 Cabernet the attack with a velvet texture, ripe concentrated fruit and Sauvignon Paso Robles ($18) 88 This Cabernet Sauvignon good acidity on the finish. is blended with 15% Merlot and is sourced from several Paso Robles vineyards. Aged for 18 months in barriques, Ranchita Canyon Vineyard This is a family owned and it reveals aromas and flavors of dark red fruit and charred operated boutique winery that produces small lot-estate oak. It is soft and lush on the palate with very firm tannins wines. www.ranchitacanyonvineyard.com and a medium-long alcoholic finish. Other Wines Tasted: Robert Hall 2010 Grenache Blanc Paso Robles, Robert Hall Ranchita Canyon 2008 Zinfandel ($28) 89 This is a 2007 Meritage Paso Robles, Robert Hall 2009 Pape de densely fruited wine showing ripe, jammy red plum with Robles Paso Robles, Robert Hall 2009 Syrah Paso Robles a mocha note on the nose and palate with good balance and dry tannins. Also tasted: Ranchita Canyon 2008 Old Vine Petite Sirah, Ranchita 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Ranchita Canyon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

29 red fruit with savory notes. The wine is beautifully struc- Saxum This is one of California’s finest young winer- tured and richly flavored with lots of savory black fruit, ies. The wines here are made by Justin Smith, who has hints of dried red fruit, notes of chalky minerals and crisp achieved national recognition and phenomenal suc- acidity (15.1 alc). Saxum 2010 Paderewski Vineyard ($89) cess. Saxum wines are sourced from the James Berry 94 This is Justin Smith’s second red blend vintage from the Vineyard, the Smith family’s estate vineyard planted historic Paderewski Vineyard, which he helped Bill and Liz on rocky limestone hillsides and ancient sea beds and Armstrong of Epoch Estate to develop. The wine is phe- neighboring vineyards like the Booker Vineyard in the nomenal, exploding in the mouth with flavor while offering Templeton Hills. Justin’s wines are handcrafted using a firm chalky tannins that augur for a long life. This blend of minimalist winemaking philosophy that includes natural 35% Zinfandel, 26% Mourvèdre, 19% Tempranillo, 11% yeast and use of old cement fermentation tanks. The Syrah, and 9% Petite Sirah reveals savory herbs and vio- wines are never racked off their lees and are bottled lets on the nose and a broad, muscular palate. Absolutely unfined and unfiltered. Only 3,000 cases produced superb. annually, and much of it sold through a mailing list. The wines are beautifully structured, exhibiting big Sculpterra Winery & Sculpture Gardens This winery tannins, and high alcohol, but are perfectly balanced and sculpture gardens are situated on a 90 acre ranch and elegant. However, the wines need up to a year in the Linne Valley just east of the city of Paso Robles. minimum of aging in the bottle before drinking and can They are owned by Dr. Warren Frankel who since be expected to improve further over the years. 1979 has developed Sculpterra into a high quality www.saxumvineyards.com premium wine producer. The vineyard is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Franc Saxum 2009 Bone Rock James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles and several Rhone varieties. There are some excellent ($85) 93 This bottling is a delicious blend of 57% Syrah, premium wines being produced here by winemaker 31% Mourvèdre and 12% Grenache from the steep ter- Paul Frankel, a graduate of Cal Poly. The wines are races of the Bone Rock parcel of the James Berry Vineyard. generally big flavored, oak-aged and high in alcohol. It offers aromas of blueberry, dark chocolate and smoke. www.sculpterra.com On the palate it exhibits a velvet texture and savory blackberry flavors with hints of roasted meat and herbs. Aged Sculpterra Winery 2011 Viognier Paso Robles ($26) 90+ in 60% new oak for around 30 months, the wine shows The 2011 Sculpterra Viognier opens with aromas of apri- beautiful balance, muscular tannins and a long finish. Give cot, peach and herbs. Fermented in stainless steel and this wine time to unfold. Only 450 cases made of this 1/3 French oak puncheons, it displays crisp, white peach Saxum 2009 Booker Vineyards Paso beauty (15.7 alc.). flavors on the palate with a rich texture and good overall Robles ($85) 95 This blend combines 70% Syrah and 30% balance. It is a delicious wine sourced from the neighbor- Mourvèdre sourced from the neighboring steep hillside ing Carriage Vineyard and the Sculpterra Estate Vineyard. blocks of the Booker Vineyards, which he helped plant. It Sculpterra Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon “Bentley Iron- displays ripe dark red plum with a dried cranberry note works” Paso Robles ($60) 91 This 100 percent Cabernet and lots of spice and licorice. It has an expressive pal- Sauvignon is sourced from low-yielding cane-pruned vines ate, medium acidity and very firm tannins on the finish. in the Sculpterra Estate Vineyard. It has an inky hue and a The Syrah is fermented whole cluster and aged for 20-26 savory nose of blackberry and cassis liqueur. Aged for 17 months in 350 L French barrels with the Mourvédre to pro- months in new French oak, it is rich and unctuous on the duce a highly concentrated wine with magnificent texture. palate and well-structured with firm tannins and an overlay Saxum 2009 Broken Stones Paso Robles ($85) 94 This of French oak. It has high alcohol (16.2 alc) on the palate is a Syrah-based cuvee with Grenache, Mourvèdre and and has chalky firm tannins on the finish. Sculpterra Win- Petite Sirah, aged in French barriques for 18-20 months. ery 2010 Statuesque Paso Robles ($40) 92 The Statuesque This full-bodied wine offers fresh juicy boysenberry fruit, is a blend of 1/3 each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah plum, and violets on the nose. It has a lovely palate feel, and Petite Sirah. It is a big full-bodied wine fermented and serious and savory, with complex nuances of loam earth, aged in 100% new oak for 17 months. It boasts an inky, chalky minerals, light meat notes, and a touch of gar- savory nose of blackberry and cassis liqueur. It is lovely rigue. It has excellent balance, big tannins and a long on the palate with a rich mouth feel and good structure Saxum 2010 James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles finish. of minerals and firm tannins. It has chalky tannins on the ($90) 95 This semi-opaque cuvee exhibits dense red and finish. black fruit on the nose with hints of loam. A blend of 52% Grenache, 26% Mourvèdre and 22% Syrah, it is lush, pure and creamy on the palate with a firmly tannic mid-palate and very good balance, finishing with minerals and red and black fruit notes. Saxum 2010 Terry Hoage Vineyard Paso Robles ($90) 94 Sourced from different blocks of the nearby Terry Hoage Vineyard, this wine is a blend of 46% Syrah, 33% Grenache, and 21% Mourvèdre. It displays an opaque ruby hue and lovely fresh upfront spicy dark

30 acidity and freshness, firm tannins and a long finish. This Steinbeck Vineyards & Winery Steinbeck Vineyards wine should last at least a decade. We prefer this to the consists of 500 acres of sandy loam and clay soils. 2006 vintage of this wine, which we also tasted. Tablas It produces small lots of premium wines from 1% of Creek Vineyard 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc Paso its vineyards. The rest is sold to large local wineries Robles ($40) 92 The Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc is a deli- including Eberle, J Lohr and Justin. They produce Cab- cious blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Picpoul. ernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Viognier It boasts complex floral, tropical, and leesy aromas with as well as two blends: “The Crash” and “Voice”. The hints of butterscotch and minerals. It is elegant and refined current owners, Howie and Bev Steinbeck, are the sev- with excellent balance and a honeyed mouth feel. The enth generation in the family vineyard business in Paso Roussanne is fermented in puncheon, the Grenache Blanc Robles that began over125 years ago. The winemaker in stainless steel, and the Picpoul in barrel for one year in is Steve Glossner. Total production is around 1000 neutral oak. The 2007 vintage of this wine was even more cases. www.steinbeckwines.com delicate and creamy smooth. Tablas Creek Vineyard 2009 Grenache Paso Robles ($40) 91 Medium ruby in color, the Steinbeck 2008 The Crash Paso Robles ($43) 89 The 2009 Grenache is a delicious fruit rich wine, clean, pure Crash is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% and aromatic. It boasts ripe cherry and dark plum fruit Zinfandel, 11% Merlot and small amounts of Viognier and aromas and flavors, spice and hints of toast. It is nicely Petite Sirah. It is a tasty red and blackberry fruit-forward structured with high acidity and firm gripping tannins on wine that commemorates an airplane crash that occurred the finish. Tablas Creek Vineyard 2011 Marsanne Paso on the property in 1956. It is a ripe and nicely balanced Robles ($30) 90 This Marsanne reveals aromas and flavors wine that stands out from the rest. Steinbeck 2008 Petite of green apple, citrus, and mineral notes. Whole cluster Sirah Paso Robles ($60) 88 The 2008 Petite Sirah exhibits pressed and fermented in stainless steel, it has good mouth a dark ruby color and aromas of blackberry and plum. feel with a creamy texture, good weight and crisp acid- It is rustic on the palate with big tannins that will require ity. Made in very small quantities. Tablas Creek Vineyard several more years of bottle aging before it can be fully 2010 Roussanne Paso Robles ($30) 90 The Roussanne has enjoyed. Other Wines Tasted: Steinbeck 2009 Viognier subtle aromas and flavors of honey, white flowers and Paso Robles, Steinbeck 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso pear. Roussanne seems to reveal nutty, honey and butter- Robles scotch-like aromas and flavors after several years of bottle aging. Produced in very small quantities. Tablas Creek Tablas Creek is among the pioneers of Rhone varieties Vineyard 2010 En Gobelet Paso Robles ($45) 92 The En in Paso Robles. It was founded as a partnership be- Gobelet is a spicy fruit forward, small-production blend of tween Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape 37% Grenache Noir, 28% Mourvèdre, 13% Syrah, 12% and Robert Hass, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Counoise, and 10% Tannat sourced from head-pruned Vineyard Brands. Its organic estate vineyard consists of blocks. It is dark ruby in color and offers dark red and 120 acres under vine. It works with indigenous yeasts blue fruit aromas and flavors. It is soft and elegant on the and ages its wine in large, neutral oak barrels and palate with hints of smoke, bright acidity and a long finish. casks. Tablas Creek previously managed a nursery of A delicious wine. Tablas Creek Vineyard 2010 Tannat Paso clones from Beaucastel cuttings that have been widely Robles ($40) 90+ The 2010 Tannat exhibits a dark ruby used throughout the region. www.tablascreek.com purple color and aromas of brambly black fruit, earth and minerals. Aged in neutral French oak, it shows lots of fruit, Tablas Creek Vineyard 2010 Côtes de Tablas Paso Robles fairly aggressive tannins, and an earthy meaty finish. ($30) 90 The Côtes de Tablas is a Rhone blend of 46% Wines Also Tasted: Tablas Creek Vineyard 2011 Patelin de Grenache Noir, 39% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Tablas Paso Robles, Tablas Creek Vineyard 2011 Patelin de Counoise. It is ripe and aromatic with spicy red raspberry Tablas Blanc Paso Robles fruit aromas and flavors, and it is fruit forward (whole- cluster pressed) with fresh and lively acidity and a good Terry Hoage Vineyards Owned and operated by Terry firm spicy tannic structure and finish. Tablas Creek Vine- and Jennifer Hoage, this small artisanal winery pro- yard 2010 Côtes de Tablas Blanc Paso Robles ($27) 91 duces wines made from estate owned fruit. Located on The 2010 vintage was the best yet for Viognier at Tablas the West side of Paso Robles in Templeton, the 26-acre Creek, and the fruit quality shows in the Côtes de Tablas Hoage vineyards, purchased in 2002, are dry farmed Blanc. An estate bend of 54% Viognier, 30% Grenache organically. Terry and Jennifer Hoage learned their Blanc, 8% Marsanne, and 8% Roussanne, whole cluster winemaking from Saxum’s Justin Smith, who made the pressed, it offers aromas of honeysuckle and peach with first vintages. Winemaking follows minimalist practices hints of pineapple. The medium weight palate is soft and without racking, fining or filtering. Terry Hoage played elegant with a hint of passion fruit and good acidity and pro football for 13 season and won the Superbowl with crispness on the finish. Tablas Creek Vineyard 2009 Esprit the Redskins in 1992. Jennifer is from New Orleans de Beaucastel Paso Robles ($55) 94 The Esprit de Beau- and interested in wine and food. castel is a fruit-forward Mourvèdre-based blend of Syrah, www.terryhoagevineyards.com Grenache, and Cinsault. It offers delicious plumy, dark red fruit and dusty chocolate on the palate. Aged for 18 months in French barriques, it is nicely balanced with good

31 Terry Hoage 2010 “The Gap” Cuvee Blanc Paso Robles Turley Wine Cellars Larry Turley and veteran wine- ($38) 90 “The Gap” is a blend of Grenache Blanc, maker Ehren Jordan are best known for making world- Roussanne and Picpoul. It is highly aromatic and offers class old-vine Zinfandels in Napa Valley. Their winery delicious fruit flavors and minerals with an herbal char- in Paso was established in 2000 when Larry Turley acter. The wine shows richness, depth and harmony of bought the Pesenti Winery with its 80-year old Zin- flavors with excellent balance. Terry Hoage 2010 “The fandel vineyards. The three Zinfandels reviewed here 46” Grenache-Syrah Paso Robles ($55) 93 “The 46” is a are from different Paso Robles old vines vineyards with 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah. It is fruit forward distinct character. All are first-class Zinfandel cuvees. with clean, ripe, flavorful red berry and plum fruit. It is www.turleywinecellars.com nicely balanced and elegant showing considerable depth. Terry Hoage 2009 It has round tannins and a long finish. Turley Wine Cellars 2010 Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard Paso “The Hedge” Syrah ($50) 91 “The Hedge” is made of 95% Robles ($42) 92 The Turley 2010 Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard Syrah and small amounts of Grenache, Mourvèdre and is dark ruby in color and offers aromas of black raspberry, Roussanne. It displays a deep medium ruby color with toasted oak and a hint of red cherry. It displays purity and fragrant aromas and flavors of blue and blackberry fruit focus on the palate with fresh crushed fruit flavors, ripe and notes of violets. Clean and fresh on the palate, it is tannins and a long finish. Turley Wine Cellars 2009 Zin- easy drinking and enjoyable. Terry Hoage 2010 Syrah fandel Pesenti Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) 92 The 2009 34 Paso Robles ($55) 93 This is a delicious Syrah from Zinfandel Pesenti Vineyard is less effusive and more earthy densely planted own-rooted vines from cutting of Justiin on the nose than the Dusi. It shows savory dark red plum Smith’s Bone Rock block of the James Berry Vineyard. The flavors and mineral notes on the palate. Its flavors are wine is complex, floral (violet) and earthy in character with subtle, and it finishes with firm ripe tannins. Made from a silky and refined tasting palate with flavors of black fruit, head-trained, 80-year-old vines. Turley Wine Cellars 2009 bitter chocolate, black olive and minerals. Zinfandel Ueberroth Vineyard Paso Robles ($50) 93+ The

dark ruby 2009 Zinfandel Ueberroth Vineyard displays a Thacher Winery This is a family run, boutique winery dark ruby hue and has fragrant aromas of blue and dark owned and operated by Sherman Thacher, a graduate red fruit on the nose. It is full-bodied and savory on the of UC Davis. It consists of 52 acres in the Adelaida palate with layered earthy flavors combined with chalky Hills on the west side of Paso Robles; the property was minerals and licorice. It is well structured and chewy with formerly known as Kentucky Ranch, a well-known horse dry tannins and an extremely long, earthy finish. breeding ranch. Established in 2004, it produces handcrafted Rhone blends and Zinfandel and Viognier Venteux Vineyards This Templeton winery is owned by from Paso Robles and southern Monterey County. The the Stelzle and Goldenberg families. It has a 10 acre winery annually produces about1800 cases. All the estate vineyard with dry-farmed, head-trained vines wines are excellent, but the Zinfandels are outstanding. planted to Rhone varieties. The winery also runs a www.thacherwinery.com luxury bed and breakfast. The wines made here are all well-made Rhone varietals and blends. Thacher 2010 Viognier Paso Robles ($25) 90 The 2010 www.venteuxvineyards.com Viognier reveals light stone fruit and flowers on the nose. It is soft and creamy on the palate with delicate fruit flavors, Venteux Vineyards 2009 Fleur Blanc Paso Robles ($22) 90 good acidity and a firm finish. The grapes were sourced The Fleur Blanc has a lightly perfumed nose of gardenia from the Hastings Vineyard in West Paso Robles. Thacher and honeysuckle with a green apple edge. The refined pal- 2009 Controlled Chaos Paso Robles ($35) 91 Controlled ate is ripe, creamy and delicately flavored with very good Chaos is a blend of 39% Mourvèdre, 37% Zinfandel, balance and refreshing acidity. A blend of 50% Viognier, 16% Grenache and 8% Petite Sirah. It displays loads of 30% Roussanne, and 20% Marsanne from the Derby Vine- red fruit on the nose with big raspberry fruit flavors and yard. Venteux Vineyards 2009 Grenache Paso Robles chocolate notes on the attack. The mouth feel is opulent, ($32) 90 The 2009 Grenache opens with fragrant aromas and the tannins are chalky and fine-grained. A lovely wine. of spicy plum and strawberry. It exhibits good flavor inten- Thacher 2009 Triumverate Reserve ($38) 90 The 2009 sity, crisp acidity and a long tannic finish. A young wine Triumverate Reserve Zinfandel is a selection of the best that needs time in the bottle for peak enjoyment. Venteux fruit from three vineyards: Bailey ranch, Will’s Hills and Je Vineyards 2008 Estate Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($46) T’aime. It is very soft and round on the palate revealing 89+ The opaque ruby Petite Sirah is sourced from estate spicy, earthy and peppery blue fruit with lingering notes of dry-farmed, head-trained vines. It reveals a nose of dark licorice on the finish. Thacher 2009 Zinfandel ($30) 91 The red berry fruit, tobacco, and violets. It is full-bodied with Thacher 2009 Zinfandel exhibits aromas of red and black lovely mouth feel, a velvet-like texture and bright acidity. fruit with notes of spice and toast. It is soft and lush on the It also has firm round tannins and a long finish. Venteux palate with a velvet texture and concentrated fruit flavors. Vineyards 2008 Estate Syrah Paso Robles ($46) 90 The It is spicy and soft with round tannins and a firm persistent Estate Syrah reveals aromas of blue and blackberry fruit. It finish. has a soft and elegant texture, and is nicely balanced and lush with hints of dark chocolate, and round tannins. Well

32 done. Venteux Vineyards 2009 Mourvèdre Paso Robles Aged in French and Hungarian oak for 17 months, the ($32) 90 This Mourvèdre is spicy and aromatic with dark wine finishes on a sweet blackberry syrup note with a hint berry fruit on the nose. On the attack it reveals beautiful of cocoa. Victor Hugo Winery 2010 Zinfandel Paso Robles pure boysenberry and plum fruit with stem, earth, and ($22) 88+ The medium-ruby Zinfandel offers red raspberry sweet oak notes. It is focused and quite long on the finish. aromas with assertive herbal notes and vanilla. Aged in Venteux Vineyards 2009 PMS Paso Robles ($30) 91+ This American oak for 17 months, it reveals light raspberry fruit PMS (what a name for a wine!) is a blend of 75% Petite on the palate with high acidity and a short finish. Wines Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah. It boasts a dark Also Tasted: Victor Hugo Winery 2009 Petite Sirah Paso ruby color and fragrant aromas of black raspberry fruit Robles, Victor Hugo Winery 2009 Opulence Paso Robles, and cedar. It is soft on the attack with flavors of ripe dark Victor Hugo Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso cherry fruit and charred oak. It has soft round tannins and Robles a pleasant finish. Villa Creek Cellars This winery is located in west Paso Veris Cellars Located on the west side of Paso Robles, Robles. Winemaker Chris Cherry and his wife JoAnn Veris Cellars was founded in 1990 as JanKris Winery. produce the wines. They source grapes from top It was acquired in 2008 by Matthew Talbert, a local vineyards such as James Berry, Denner, Ohana and entrepreneur and wine enthusiast, who has made new Booker. They also have their own 70 acre estate vine- investments in the winery’s winemaking operations yard on the west side of Paso Robles with elevations of and tasting room. The wines in the Ben Hogan Tribute 1400-1800’ calcareous soils, and south facing slopes. Series are full-bodied but light in flavor with vanilla Villa Creek specializes in blending Grenache, Syrah, overtones. www.veriscellars.com Mourvèdre and Tempranillo grapes. www.villacreekwine.com Veris Cellars 2008 Ben Hogan Tribute Series Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($28) 88 The Cabernet Sauvignon Villa Creek 2011 White Paso Robles ($26) 90 The 2011 opens with dark red and blackberry fruit and oak spice White is an attractive blend of 70% Grenache Blanc and aromas that are mirrored on the full-bodied palate, which 30% Roussanne. Fermented in stainless steel and cement is soft and lush. The flavor profile is light and the tannins tanks, it displays a palate of yellow fruit and minerals and are ripe and round with grip on the finish. Veris Cellars a crisp finish. The grapes are sourced from the James Berry 2008 Ben Hogan Tribute Series Zinfandel Paso Robles ($28) Vineyard and other neighboring vineyards. Villa Creek 88 This is a very ripe tasting Zinfandel. Medium-ruby in 2010 Roussanne, JBV Paso Robles ($40) 91 This 2010 Rous- color, it offers aromas and flavors of red raspberry and sanne displays lovely aromas of white flowers and minerals vanilla with herbal notes. It exhibits light intensity of flavor followed by a creamy palate of tangerine, savory herbs on the full-bodied palate but with good raspberry fruit, and pear with a very long finish. The wine is sourced from vanilla and a hint of sweetness on the finish. Veris Cellars the James Berry Vineyard and is fermented in concrete 2008 Nova Vita Petit Verdot Paso Robles ($46) 88+ The tanks and Hungarian puncheon and is aged in French Nova Vita Petit Verdot is an upscale, single varietal wine barriques after full malolactic fermentation. Inspired by offering fragrant aromas of black currant fruit, leather and Hermitage Blanc. Villa Creek 2010 Garnacha Denner toasted oak. It is nicely balanced with ripe fruit flavors, Vineyard Paso Robles ($50) 91 This bright ruby-colored pepper and smoke on the palate. Rich and nuanced, it of- Garnacha offers aromas and flavors of earth, raspberry fers a nice long finish. and oriental spices. It shows good intensity of red fruit flavors, anise and stems on a lush palate with elegance Victor Hugo Winery Established in 1997, this small and refinement. It also has just the right amount of tannin family winery is owned and operated by Victor Hugo, to spend a few years in the cellar. It is rich and hedonistic a UC Davis-trained enologist. The vineyard consists with a glycerin finish that lasts for over a minute. The wine of 75 acres planted on rugged shale hillsides in the is 70% whole cluster fermented in puncheons and stain- Templeton Gap. The winery specializes in producing less steel. Villa Creek 2010 High Road Red Wine James big reds, including Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Malbec and Berry Vineyard Paso Robles ($60) 92+ This is a GSM blend other blends. www.victorhugowinery.com of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre. It offers rich dark raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors Victor Hugo Winery 2011 Viognier Paso Robles ($20) 90 with notes of earth. Fermented with 50% whole clusters This Viognier is highly aromatic and fresh on the nose and aged for four years in barrel, it is lush and round on showing stone fruit and even a hint of marzipan. On the the palate with soft round tannins and a delicious finish. palate, the texture is soft and creamy with lightly concen- Villa Creek 2010 Willow Creek Cuvée ($45) 92 The Willow trated flavors of ripe tropical fruit and bracing acidity. Creek Cuvée combines 60% Grenache and 20% each of This is a flavorful, nicely balanced wine made from hand Syrah and Mourvedre. It offers rich ripe red fruit aromas harvested, whole cluster pressed fruit that is barrel fer- with a lush attack of red berries, plums and toasted oak. mented and aged for 5 months in Hungarian oak. Victor It is an elegant and complex wine, produced partially Hugo Winery 2010 Syrah Paso Robles ($22) 88 The Syrah with whole clusters and aged in both large formats and displays ripe blackberry fruit with a slightly reductive nose. barriques. It has a velvet palate, firm ripe tannins, and a On the palate it is soft and rich tasting with meaty notes. long finish.

33 Wild Horse 2011 Verdelho Paso Robles ($22) 89 The 2011 Vina Robles This winery was developed by Hans Nef Verdelho is a Portuguese grape variety sourced from a and managing partner Hans-R. Michel. Established small block on the estate. It has an floral nose, ripe green in 1997, it currently consists of four estate vineyards in apple, pear and melon flavors and crisp acidity on the different growing areas of Paso Robles and also pur- finish. Wild Horse 2009 Blaufrankisch Paso Robles ($26) chases fruit from other growers. Vina Robles produces 89 The dark ruby 2009 Blaufrankisch is a spicy red variety a wide variety of wines, of which the most interesting from Austria. It offers complex aromas and fresh fruit are its white and red Rhone blends and Petite Sirah. flavors of blackberry and plum. It is nicely balanced, light Production is 29 thousand cases. www.vinarobles.com and fresh tasting and very approachable. Wild Horse 2009 Unbridled Cabernet Sauvignon ($36) 89+ This Cab- Vina Robles 2010 White 4 Paso Robles ($16) 89 An unusu- ernet Sauvignon is sourced from the Carriage Vineyard in al and interesting blend of grapes makes for a unique and Templeton and the Beck Vineyard in eastern Paso Robles. enigmatic wine. Pear, melon and spicy herbs shown on the It is pleasantly aromatic showing dark red plum aromas. nose, while the softly textured palate evokes a Southern On the palate it offers flavors of blue and red fruit, with Rhone white complemented by bright acidity and a note a velvet texture and dry tannins on the finish. Wild Horse of Sauvignon herbaceousness. A blend of 29% Viognier, 2009 Unbridled Merlot ($35) 91 The 2009 Unbridled 28% Verdelho, 27% Sauvignon Blanc, and 16% Vermen- Merlot is a fresh fruit forward wine that offers aromas tino from the estate’s 1100’ Hueruero Vineyard. Vina and flavors of red plum, dark boysenberry and blueberry. Robles 2009 Red 4 Paso Robles ($17) 90 This is a blend It is soft and round on the palate with concentrated fruit of 42% Petite Sirah, 28% Grenache, 22% Syrah and 8% flavors. Wild Horse 2009 Unbridled Mourvèdre aged 15 months in neutral French oak barrels. A delicious wine. Zinfandel Paso Robles ($36) 89 The Unbridled Zinfandel It offers a dark fruited nose of blackberry with a hint of tar is medium ruby and offers fresh cool climate fruit flavors. and dark chocolate. It is full flavored on the palate with It is light and spicy on the palate with good crisp acidity a nice texture and big firm tannins on the finish. The fruit and freshness. A fun wine with fresh flavors sourced from is from the Huerhuero Vineyard. Vina Robles 2009 Estate neighboring hillside vineyards. Wild Horse 2009 Un- Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) 88 A blend of 75% Cabernet bridled Syrah Paso Robles ($36) 89+ Medium dark ruby in Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, and 10% Tannat from the color, this Syrah sourced from Halter Ranch Vineyard offers Huerhuero, Jardine, and Creston valley vineyards. Aged in a fresh fruit nose of dark red cherry. It is soft on the attack oak for 18 months, it has a nose of light black fruit, smoke, with a richly flavored dark red fruited palate. The tannins and toast. It is somewhat rustic on the palate with ripe are ripe and the finish is long. fruit and firm tannins. Vina Robles 2009 Estate Petite Sirah

Paso Robles ($26) 89+ The Estate Petite Sirah is a blend of Windward Vineyard Dedicated to the producing 78% Petite Sirah and 22% Syrah from 5 different vineyards Burgundian style Pinot Noir, Windward Vineyard is aged 16 months in French oak, 40% new. It is opaque the passion of the husband and wife team of Marc ruby with light blackberry aromas and flavors with an at- Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia. The vineyard was tack of blackberry fruit, light flavors, very firm tannins and purchased and planted in 1989 on the calcareous soils a good finish with a touch of minerals. Vina Robles 2008 of Paso Robles re-planting the HMR Pinot Noir clone, Syrée Paso Robles ($39) 91 A blend of 82% Syrah and which was developed in the 1970s by Dr. Stanley Hoff- 18% Petite Sirah from the Ryan Road and Creston Valley man. Windward Vineyard Pinot Noirs are competently vineyards aged 16 months in French oak. It offers a red made and demonstrate that high quality Pinot Noir can and black fruited nose and an intensely flavored palate be produced in areas of Paso Robles. with lots of fresh dark berry fruit and charred oak notes. www.windwardvineyard.com Well balanced with good acidity, it’s a complete wine with good complexity and balance. Vina Robles 2008 Windward Vineyard 2008 Estate Pinot Noir Monopole Suendero Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($49) 90 Paso Robles ($38) 91 The 2008 Estate Pinot Noir exhibits The Suendero is a blend of 68% Cabernet and 32% Petite pure dried red cherry and red plum on the nose. It is soft Verdot. It offers aromas of dark red fruit, earth, spice and on entry with an elegant palate and layered flavors fresh vanilla. Aged for 16 months in new French oak, it is ripe with minerals and light earth notes along with dried cherry and round on the palate and has a long persistent finish. and plum. Windward Vineyard 2007 Barrel Select Gold Pinot Noir Paso Robles ($62) 92 The 2007 Barrel Select Wild Horse Winery & Vineyards This winery located Gold has a perfumed nose of black cherry and violets. It in Templeton was founded by winemaker Kenneth Volk is velvet-like on the palate with moderate density of flavor, in 1982. It is currently owned by Constellation Brands good mouth feel and a long finish. Produced from ten and sources grapes from its vineyards in Paso Robles selected barrels and two Burgundian clones. Windward as well as Santa Barbara County. Within Paso Robles it Vineyard 2006 Estate Pinot Noir Monopole Paso Robles produces a variety of interesting wines such as Verdel- ($38) 93 The 2006 Estate Pinot Noir reveals a bit of age ho and Blaufrankisch. The winemaker is Clay Brock. on the nose with attractive aromas of mushroom, earth, Its excellent Pinot Noirs are sourced from vineyards in and dried cherry. It is beautifully layered on the palate Santa Maria. www.wildhorsewinery.com both with fruit and earth. It has ripe tannins and a medium long finish.

34 Annex 1 Map of Paso Robles Wineries

35 facility. They supply Villa Creek Cellars, Linne Calodo, Annex 2 The Vineyards of Brian Benson, and Justin Vineyards among others. Denner is certified by the CCVT. About half of Denner’s fruit is Paso Robles sold, mostly to Justin for its Isoceles label. Paso Robles is home to a large number and wide variety Dusi Vineyards of vineyards. The variety of soils, distance from the ocean, In 1923 Sylvester and Caterina Dusi, exposure and micro-climates means there are many micro- recent immigrants from Northern Italy, climates, even within a single vineyard. In general, the planted Zinfandel on a parcel of 25 larger and newer vineyards are east of the Salinas River, acres on the east side of Highway 101 while the smaller and older ones are west of the river. In in Paso Robles. [Since 1967, Ridge this annex we identify some of Paso Robles’ most promi- Vineyards has purchased most of the nent vineyards, most of which we visited on our travels fruit from this vineyard, called Benito there. Dusi Ranch, for its Paso Robles Zinfan- del.] Twenty years later, the Dusis planted another 100 Booker Vineyard acres to Zinfandel on the west side of 101 in a vineyard This 72 acre-vineyard purchased by now called the Dante Dusi Vineyard. Dry-farmed and Eric and Lisa Jensen in 2001 is the head-trained, these vineyards produce some of California’s source for Booker Vineyard’s own very best Zinfandel fruit today. This vineyard is the source wines and provides fruit to Linne of grapes for the Zinfandels of J. Dusi Wines, Cyper, and Calodo, Saxum and others. The Turley. vineyard is very steep and rocky with a mix of calcareous and shale Glenrose Vineyard soils. The vineyard is planted with Glenrose owner Don Rose has Grenache, Syrah and other Rhone varieties. Justin Smith a background in earthwork and helped Eric Jensen develop the vineyard and leases two used that expertise to construct acres of Syrah and Mourvédre from it. The vineyard is the impressive, rocky terraces of one small part of the original 1,200 acres of land in west- Glenrose Vineyard, located just ern Paso Robles owned by Claude and Dick Booker. off Peachy Canyon Road. Glen- rose is extremely steep, rises to Cass Vineyard 2000’, and has chalky soils and very low yields. It’s mostly Located due east of the Templeton Gap, the Cass Vineyard planted to Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache from Tablas is 146 acres of mostly alluvial soils along the Huer Huero Creek cuttings. Wineries that have purchased grapes dry riverbed. Inspired by the wines he tasted on a trip from Glenrose include Lone Madrone, Brian Benson, Katin, to Fairview Winery in South Africa, in 2001 Steve Cass Adelaida, and Four Vines. [photo courtesy of Ken Zinn of planted what was previously cow pasture to mostly Rhone Grape-Nutz.com] varieties. About 35% of Cass grapes are destined for Cass wines, while 65% are sold. The estate wine grapes Halter Ranch Vineyard are handpicked, while the others are machine harvested. This is a sustainably farmed, After taking a trip to South Africa in 2003, Steve and 900 acre ranch with its own Ted Plemons decided to partner in opening a winery. All valley and microclimate Rhone grapes are ENTAV certified. Cass sells grapes to located on the west side of Justin, Hahn Estates, Tablas Creek, Oso Libre, and Trea- Paso Robles 14 miles from the sury Wine Estates. Pacific Ocean. The vineyard was started in 1996 and Denner Vineyards acquired in 2000 by Hansjorg Wyss, who has a deep commitment to environmentally Denner Vineyards consists of 156 acres situated against responsible grape growing practices, including organic the Sana Lucia Range in the methods. The vines occupy 281 acres located on the Templeton Gap of Western Paso steepest, most south-facing slopes of the property, which Robles. The site has great diver- reaches an elevation of 1,800 feet. It is the single largest sity of elevation, aspect and soil. planting on the west side of Paso Robles. The soils range There are 108 acres under vine from calcareous clay to clay loam with shale and sand- planted to 19 different varieties stone and are planted to 60% Bordeaux varieties and 40% in 26 blocks, half of which is planted to Cabernet Sauvi- Rhone divided into 57 blocks. The soils are well drained, gnon and Syrah. The soils are rocky and calcareous and densely planted and low yielding. The vineyard receives require minimal irrigation. The estate’s grapes are sold to plentiful winter rainfall and requires minimal irrigation dur- seven other producers who also make wine at the Denner ing the growing season. Halter Ranch fruit has been sold to Calcareous, Justin, Thacher, and other producers.

36 Hoffman Mountain Ranch Estate Paderewski Vineyard Vineyard This organically- Advised by legendary Andre farmed, 65 acre Tchelistcheff, in 1964 Dr. vineyard is mostly Stanley Hoffman planted 35 limestone soil with acres of this 1600-1725’ high some shale. Site of the original Paderewski vineyard to own-rooted Pinot Noir [in foreground] in the Rancho San Ignacio estate vineyard near Adelaida, it was purchased in 2004 by Bill and Liz Armstrong and is the Adelaida Hills west of Paso Robles. It now provides the fruit for the top quality Ad- source of fruit for their Epoch estate wines as well as wines elaida Cellars Estate HMR Pinot Noir. Another 8 acres of produced by Saxum. Among the varieties planted are Zin- the vineyard was planted to Chardonnay in 1973. The fandel and Petit Sirah, which Ignacy Jan Paderewski intro- south-facing vineyard site is unique with calcareous shale duced to Paso Robles in the 1920s. Block B is the source soil, temperatures 10-15° cooler than adjoining sites, and of fruit for the best Syrah we’ve tasted in Paso Robles. diurnal temperature variations of 40-50°. Yields average about 1 ton/acre. Another 50 acre section of the original Pesenti Vineyard Hoffman Mountain Ranch has been planted to vine by the Planted by Frank Pesenti in 1923 in the Templeton district, Daou brothers, owners of Daou wines. the Pesenti Vineyard is famous for its dry-farmed, head- pruned Zinfandel. Today this 45 acre vineyard is owned James Berry Vineyard by Turley, which purchased it in 2000. The vineyard has Planted in 1980 by Justin Smith’s boxed canyons and a variety of microclimates where 22 parents, James (Pebbles) and Terry different blocks of grapes are grown, including even some Smith, the 75 acre James Berry old Mission vines. Vineyard has been the Smith family’s estate vineyard since 2000 Pomar Junction Vineyard when Justin Smith began produc- This 120 acre vineyard, located ing wine there. It is located 10 six miles east of the old railroad miles from the Pacific Ocean with town of Templeton, is owned and an average elevation of 1200 feet. It consists of a series of operated by the Merrill Family slopes with shallow clay loam topsoil covering an ancient that has been growing grapes in seabed, complete with fossilized shells and sharks teeth. the Central Coast for more than The organically farmed vineyard includes 55 acres of eight generations. Purchased by Rhone varieties and is the source for Saxum, Linne Calodo, Dana Merrill in 2002, Pomar Booker, Villa Creek and other wines. Wild Horse was the Junction consists of well-drained calcareous Linne-Calodo first winery to designate a James Berry Vineyard wine. soils (dark clay with underlying limestone and mudstone) and benefits from the cooling breezes of the Templeton Margarita Vineyard Gap. Pomar Junction is one of the first vineyards to be SIP- Vineyard is the southernmost certified by the CCVT. About 90 percent of the vineyard’s vineyard in the Paso Robles production is sold to producers like Fetzer, Justin, and Ken appellation, located 12 miles Volk with the remaining 10 percent going to Pomar Junc- from the ocean. The vineyard tion’s line of wines. is 900 acres located on the historic 14 thousand acre Santa Red Cedar Vineyard Margarita ranch, which was Red Cedar, owned by the Middleton family since the first planted to vines by Fran- 1990s, is the estate vineyard for Clayhouse Wines, which ciscan missionaries in 1774. Planted by Robert Mondavi uses only10 percent of the total production of this vineyard in 1990, the vineyard has a wide variety of soils such as located on the far east side of Paso Robles. This large, Monterey shale, sandstone, ancient sea bed, and granitic. 1400 acre hilly vineyard includes alluvial benchland near It is especially well known for its highly calcareous Oyster the Estrella River and calcareous soils on the hillside peaks Ridge block. Temperatures are generally high during the (as high as 1360’) where the alluvial soils have washed day and cool at night during the growing season. About away. The Clayhouse Estate Petite Sirah is sourced from 80 percent of the grape production is sold to other produc- 45 year old vineyards that were originally planted by the ers, while 20% is used to produce the Ancient Peaks wines. Peck family. Red Cedar is certified sustainable. [Photo courtesy of Matt Wallace]

37 Steinbeck Vineyards The Steinbeck family moved to Paso Robles from Geneseo, Illinois, in 1884 and established the town of Geneseo, but vines weren’t planted until 1982. Today there are 13 different varieties planted on 500 acres with about 1 percent of the crop going to estate wines and 99 percent being sold to producers like Constellation, Eberle, Justin, and J. Lohr. The vineyard includes own rooted 31 year old Caber- net Sauvignon vines.

Ueberroth Vineyard This steep hillside vineyard, planted in 1885, is the oldest vineyard in Paso Robles. Its limestone soils are akin to those of nearby Saxum. It is planted to old vine, dry- farmed, own-rooted Zinfandel, which Turley makes into some of the country’s most sought after wines. Peter Ueber- roth bought this vineyard from the Tanasi brothers in the mid 1960s. Yields are about 1.5 tons/acre. The vineyard has limestone, high pH soils.

38 Previous Wine Reports Issue 1 California Petite Sirah Issue 2 Red Table Wines of Portugal Issue 3 Grenache Wines Issue 4 Syrah Issue 5 Malbec: Argentina’s Magnificent Malbec Issue 6 The Wines of Southern Italy: From Quantity to Quality Special Report Portugal: The Douro Boys and Barca Velha

Issue 7 New Zealand’s Exciting Pinot Noirs Issue 8 The Wines of Ribera del Duero Issue 9 Champagne Issue 10 Unoaked Chardonnay: It’s More Than Wood Issue 11 2005 Bordeaux Crus Bourgeois Issue 12 California Petite Sirah - Syrah Update Issue 13 The Wines of Rioja: Classical and New Wave Special Report Introduction to Sherry

Issue 14 The World of Sparkling Wines and Champagne Issue 15 The Wines of Chianti Classico

Issue 16 Oregon Pinot Noir Issue 17 Sauvignon of the Loire Issue 18 Wines of Navarra Issue 19 Wines of Greece: Assyrtiko and Santorini Issue 20 The Santa Lucia Highlands Issue 21 The Chilean Wine Revolution Issue 22 Grapes and Wines of the Western Loire Issue 23 Ribera del Duero Revisited Issue 24 The New Wines of Portugal, Double Issue

Issue 25 The Wines of Austria Issue 26 The Diverse Wines of Argentina, Double Issue Issue 27 Sweet and Dessert Wines of the World Issue 28 The Wines of Priorat Issue 29 The Wines of Monterey County Issue 30 The Wines of South Africa, Double Issue Special Report South African Value Wines Issue 31 Brunello di Montalcino Issue 32 The New Wines of Israel These reports are available online at www.iwinereview.com 39