By Land Or Sea Find Your Sea Legs

CONSUMER BLUES/2 FIXING BUCHMAN AND TRACY/6 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 30, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear

By Land Or Sea Find your sea legs. Resort’s STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE ANTONIA STYLED BY classic American looks, featuring

SIONNEL; plenty of red, white and blue, are yachting fare with a ﬂ irty twist. Here, Gant’s cotton seersucker blazer, cotton polo, shirt and shorts and Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, photographed at Shearwater Sailing-Manhattan By Sail. For more, see pages 4 and 5. ER; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL PROFES RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL ER; HAIR BY

Olivier’s Next Gig: Nina Ricci Said Close to Signing Theyskens By Miles Socha to become the creative director of house with couture roots, a PARIS — From Rochas to Ricci. Nina Ricci. This confirms a report substantial perfume franchise and TRUMP; MAKEUP BY ROANNA BALES/MAKEUP FOR EV TRUMP; MAKEUP BY Less than six weeks after Olivier in WWD Aug. 23. a fledgling fashion business. Theyskens found himself out of According to market sources, Neither Nina Ricci officials nor a job with the shuttering of the the contract could be finalized the designer could be reached for Rochas fashion house, the Belgian within a week, putting Theyskens comment Tuesday. design star is zeroing in on a deal at the helm of another French See Theyskens, Page 7 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: KRISTINA/ ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 WWD.COM Consumer Confi dence Dives in August WWDWEDNESDAY By Vicki M. Young 83.8 from 88.9 in July. increased to 12.9 percent from Sportswear “Looking ahead, the glass re- 10.9 percent, while those who ex- FRETTING OVER JOBS AND mains half empty as consumers pected business conditions to im- the economy, consumer senti- are growing increasingly more prove edged down to 15.9 percent FASHION ment as measured by the Con- pessimistic about the short-term from 19.6 percent last month. Better and bridge designers are setting sail for resort with preppy seersucker ference Board plunged to its outlook,” Franco said. Regarding the six-month job 4 blazers and chic shirtdresses that look great on and off the deck. lowest level so far this year. UBS economist Maury N. outlook, the picture is dimmed. The Conference Board’s Au- Harris said in a research note, Consumers who said they expect- GENERAL gust Consumer Confi dence Index “Until August, the Conference ed more jobs to become available Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens, out of a job after Rochas closed, is also fell more sharply than econ- Board index had been showing in the coming months inched zeroing in on a deal to become the creative director of Nina Ricci. omists expected, declining to much more strength than other downward to 14 percent from 1 99.6 from 107 in July. Economists measures of sentiment. The 14.3 percent last month. Those The Conference Board’s August Consumer Confi dence Index fell more had the index pegged at 102.5 for August decline corroborates the who expected fewer jobs rose to 2 sharply than economists expected, declining to 99.6 from 107 in July. August. weakness in other indexes and 18.3 percent from 16.5 percent. In On her fi rst trip to Beijing as USTR, Susan Schwab urged China to take a “Consumer confi dence lost sig- suggests that a slowing in the addition, the Conference Board larger role in the WTO and live up to its global trade obligations. nifi cant ground in August and is labor market, which affects the said consumers anticipating 2 now at its lowest level this year,” Conference Board index more their incomes to increase in the Italian manufacturer IT Holding continued its swing back into the black, said Lynn Franco, director of The than other sentiment measures, is months ahead fell to 17.7 percent 3 posting a net profi t and double-digit sales growth in the fi rst half. Conference Board Consumer having an impact on consumers.” from 18.3 percent. MAINSTREAM: Liz Claiborne unsuccessfully steered Ellen Tracy and Research Center, in a statement. According to the Conference Harris said the expectations Dana Buchman into uncharted waters, but now they’re back on course. Franco said less favorable Board, consumers’ overall as- component of the index corre- 6 business conditions coupled with sessment of current conditions lates more closely with the rate Nordstrom Inc. will open a 144,000-square-foot store in the $1.2 billion a not-so-great job outlook con- was not favorable in August. of growth in consumer spending 8 CityNorth development in Phoenix to serve as one of its anchors. tributed to the largest one-month Those who said jobs were “plen- than do the present situation or The Gemological Institute of America celebrated its 75th anniversary decline in confi dence since the tiful” fell to 24.4 percent from the overall index. He wrote in impact of Hurricane Katrina last 28.6 percent last month, while his note that the “August read- 9 Sunday night in Carlsbad, Calif., and chiseled out some big plans. year. consumers claiming jobs are ing looks consistent with a trend WEST: The ASR Trade Expo takes place next week in San Diego with a The index is now below 100 “hard to get” rose to 21.1 percent in real consumption growth of 10 focus on the growing ties between surf and junior apparel. for the fi rst time since November, from 19.6 percent in July. around 2.5 percent at an an- when it fell to 98.3. Both compo- The outlook for the next six nual rate,” and that the reading Classifi ed Advertisements...... 11-15 nents of the index contributed months, a measure of consum- signals a slowing in the trend. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. to August’s decline. The Present ers’ future expectations, also Until recently, the trend in real [email protected], using the individual’s name. Situation Index dropped to turned negative in August. Con- consumer spending growth was 123.4 from 134.2 last month. The sumers who said they anticipat- around 3.5 to 4 percent at an an- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Expectations Index declined to ed business conditions to worsen nual rate, he said. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 43. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; USTR Wants China to Cooperate on Trade David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance By Evan Clark fort to reduce tariffs levied on agricultural and Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. industrial goods, such as textiles and apparel, Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. ON HER FIRST TRIP TO BEIJING AS U.S. as well as services, while also reducing the sub- 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS Trade Representative, Susan Schwab tried to sidies countries use to prop up key industries, CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, nudge China toward a larger role in the World which can distort global prices and trade and ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Trade Organization and hinder industrial develop- DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four aired concerns the country Susan Schwab in ment in poor countries. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other has not lived up to the obli- Beijing on Tuesday. “Now is the time for China U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. gations to which it commit- to play a greater role,” said First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, ted when it joined the global Schwab. “China needs to reas- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions trading body in 2001. sure other countries that they and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make During the eight-day trip can open their markets to our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would that ended Tuesday and in- Chinese products and services interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise cluded stops in Singapore because Chinese markets will us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. and Malaysia, Schwab tried to be open and welcoming to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- drum up support for reviving their products and services.” SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, the WTO’s Doha Round trade A failed Doha Round also OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED talks, which collapsed last could lead to greater protec- month after countries could tionism, said Schwab, point- not agree on how to lower ing to several bills in the U.S. PHOTO BY LUCAS SCHIFRES/BLOOMBERG NEWS/LANDOV SCHIFRES/BLOOMBERG LUCAS PHOTO BY barriers to agricultural trade. Congress that urge a “get- Schwab met with China’s tough” stance with China In Brief Commerce Minister, Bo aimed at the country’s trade Xilai, on Monday. and monetary policies by in- ● LONDON FOG TO ICONIX: Iconix Brand Group Inc. said “The breakdown of the troducing tariff penalties. Tuesday that it has closed on its acquisition of the London Fog Doha Round trade talks Schwab, who took over as brand from the bankrupt London Fog Group Inc. The purchase late last month was a major USTR in June, also reiterat- price was $30.5 million in cash and $7 million in Iconix stock. disappointment for all who ed the Bush administration’s Iconix previously said it signed a license agreement with outer- believe in the power of stance the trade relationship wear maker Herman Kay, which makes London Fog’s women’s trade to promote economic with China lacks balance and and men’s outerwear and women’s suits in the U.S. On Tuesday, development, to expand op- durability. Iconix said it also inked a license agreement with Amerex (USA) portunities and to facilitate “This disparity is due in Inc., which will hold the license for London Fog’s children’s out- cooperation among nations,” part to China’s failure to erwear in the U.S. Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive of- said Schwab, in remarks honor certain commitments, fi cer of Iconix, said in a statement, “With two leading outerwear prepared for a luncheon in including its failure to ad- makers forming the foundation of our licensing program, we are Beijing Tuesday that was co- equately enforce intellectual confi dent we will be able to quickly capitalize on the long and sponsored by the American property rights, its efforts to rich heritage of London Fog and build it into a lifestyle brand Chamber of Commerce in protect and support certain that appeals to a broad range of consumers.” China and the U.S.-China Business Council. domestic industries and its delay in fulfi lling Launched in 2001, the Doha talks are an ef- certain market-opening obligations,” she said. ● HONOR FOR KANER: The Dallas Market Center, parent of FashionCenterDallas, will present a Personal Style Award to Joan Kaner, retired fashion director and senior vice president at Neiman Marcus. Kaner will receive the honor during the 31st annual Dallas Fashion Awards gala on Oct. 28 along with eight com- Wellington Said Near Harvé Benard Purchase petitive-category winners. The Fashion Excellence Award will be given to designer Carmen Marc Valvo. “Joan Kaner is a leg- NEW YORK — Harvé Benard Ltd. appears to pany made its fi rst two acquisitions this year. endary fi gure in the fashion industry who has shaped the world have found a buyer. Wellington Capital, an in- In January it purchased sportswear and outer- of luxury fashion throughout her career,” said Bill Winsor, presi- vestment banking group formed in the last year, wear fi rm New Frontier, and in April it acquired dent and chief executive offi cer of the Dallas Market Center. is in the final stages of acquiring the apparel bridge fi rm Garfi eldMarks. Wellington Capital manufacturer, according to a source close to likely will license out the apparel production. the deal. Harvé Benard president Bernard Holtzman Harvé Benard is a $100 million apparel declined comment Tuesday, and Wellington Correction fi rm that produces women’s better sportswear, Capital, which has offi ces in the Empire State A capelet pictured on page 14, Monday is an Adrienne Landau outerwear, suits and dresses under the Harvé Building here, could not be reached. cashmere half-moon capelet with silver fox trim for $1,245. It Benard brand. In business since 1967, the com- — Whitney Beckett was misidentified. WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 3 WWD.COM

tiques branded +IT. The company plans to bring the total to 40 by the end of the year, a spokesman said. Strong Sales Lift IT Holding Net At Malo, fi rst-half sales grew 13.6 percent to 22.6 million euros, or $27.8 mil- By Amanda Kaiser released an upbeat forecast for the rest its 12-year partnership with IT Holding lion. IT Holding has been tinkering with of the year. In a statement, he said strong for D&G, taking production of the diffu- the brand’s management and design di- MILAN — IT Holding SpA continued its fall-winter orders “make us optimistic sion line in-house. IT Holding’s produc- rection over the past few months. In July, swing back into the black, posting a net about the future.” tion contract for D&G ends with the fall- IT Holding tapped Tommaso Aquilano profit and double-digit sales growth in IT Holding’s fi rst-half operating profi t winter 2006–2007 season. and Roberto Rimondi, the pair behind the first half of this year. advanced 59.1 percent to 29.6 million Since losing the lucrative D&G license, the emerging 6267 label, to design Malo’s The company posted a net profi t of 1.3 euros, or $36.4 million. the fi rm has sought other revenue by ink- women’s ready-to-wear collections. They million euros, or $1.6 million, for the six The company noted that first-half ing a production deal for John Galliano’s succeed Fabio Piras, who consulted on months ended June 30. That compares sales at Gianfranco Ferré climbed 10.3 new diffusion line, called Galliano, devel- fall 2005 and designed the next two collec- with a year-earlier loss of 10.8 million percent to 56.6 million euros, or $69.6 oping its accessories business and grow- tions. Piras left in March. euros, or $13.9 million. Sales for the pe- million, while the brand’s retail sales for ing in-house knitwear brand Malo. IT Holding’s sales rose in every geo- riod rose 15.8 percent to 367.3 million the period grew 52.9 percent. On the accessories front, fi rst-half sales graphic region. Revenue in Europe, the euros, or $451.8 million. The company IT Holding’s core diffusion business, in- rose 37 percent to 59.6 million euros, or fi rm’s biggest market by far, grew 16.2 began its return to profi tability in the fi rst cluding its manufacturing licenses for the $73.3 million, boosted by new store open- million to 283.4 million euros, or $348.6 quarter after three diffi cult, money-losing Just Cavalli, D&G, Versace Jeans Couture ings. IT Holding, in cooperation with fran- million. In America, sales gained 10.9 years. (Dollar fi gures have been converted and C’N’C Costume National brands, saw chising partners in Europe and the Middle percent to 33.7 million euros, or $41.4 mil- from the euro at average exchange rates its fi rst-half sales advance 11.4 percent to East, is rolling out accessories-only stores, lion. Sales in Asia, including Japan, in- for the period to which they refer.) 225.2 million euros, or $277 million. 19 of which opened in the fi rst half. creased 5.7 percent to 27.7 million euros, IT Holding president Tonino Perna Last year, Dolce & Gabbana severed Today there are 25 accessories bou- or $34.1 million. Ronald Lauder To Sell Stake In Media Firm By Vicki M. Young rivate equity firm Apax PPartners entered into a limited partnership agreement to acquire a 49.7 percent stake in Central European Media Enterprises, owned by Ronald Lauder. The remaining 50.3 percent interest in the partnership will be benefi cially owned by Lauder and his family, according to Apax. The deal is expected to close Friday. In connection with the transaction, Christian Stahl and Frank Ehmer of Apax were elected to the board of CME. Apax is the fi rm that bought Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. earlier this year. “Since CME’s initial public offering in 1994, the company has created tre- mendous value for share- holders,” said Lauder in a statement. “This partnership allows me to diversify my personal investments and recognize a return on a part of my initial invest- ment in the company, while remaining CME’s largest shareholder. Further, it provides CME with a strong fi nancial investor and additional board directors who share our commitment to building on the company’s leadership position and regional focus.” The terms of the deal provide Apax, after a period of three years, with the ability to seek redemption or sale of all or part of its interest in the limited partnership. Lauder has the opportunity to acquire any interest to be redeemed. CME is a television broadcasting company with leading networks in six Central and Eastern European countries reach- ing 82 million people. The company’s television sta- tions are located in Croatia, Czech Republic, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia and the Ukraine. CME is traded on the Nasdaq and the Prague Stock Exchange under the ticker symbol “CETV.” 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 Rock the Boat Better and bridge designers are setting sail for resort. From traditional preppy seersucker blazers to chic, Jackie O-inspired shirtdresses, these sportswear looks are great both on and off the deck.

Cotton henley and cotton and spandex denim pants from Michael Michael Kors. Ben Amun Wool cardigan necklace and bangles from Anne Klein and Zac Posen shoes. New York and Tommy Hilﬁ ger’s nylon and spandex bikini bottom. Ben Amun bracelets. WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Chaiken’s cotton dress with a rope belt. Ben Amun necklace.

Theory’s linen and Lycra spandex dress. Anne Klein belt and Ben Amun necklace.

Cotton cardigan and canvas shorts EVER; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL; FASHION ASSISTANT: STACY BILLMAN; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE BILLMAN; STYLED BY STACY ASSISTANT: PROFESSIONNEL; FASHION RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL EVER; HAIR BY from Lauren by Ralph Lauren. Prada sunglasses.

Christopher Fischer’s cashmere cardigan, Tommy Hilfi ger’s nylon and spandex bikini top and ECI’s stretch cotton skirt. Ben Amun necklaces. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT MITRA AT SHEARWATER SAILING-MANHATTAN BY SAIL; MODEL: KRISTINA/TRUMP; MAKEUP BY ROANNA BALES/MAKEUP FOR SAIL; MODEL: KRISTINA/TRUMP; MAKEUP BY BY SAILING-MANHATTAN SHEARWATER AT MITRA ROBERT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 WWD.COM In the Mainstream Liz Claiborne Charts New Course Original Penguin Heats Up, For Ellen Tracy and Dana Buchman Embarks on Store Rollout By Whitney Beckett second quarter in a July 26 con- hind its fellow bridge brand’s By Rusty Williamson ference call. progress. Sullivan pointed to NEW YORK — After pushing “This is called shooting your- the spring launch of the al- erry Ellis International believes in the power of the penguin. two of its bridge brands into self in the foot,” Charron said ready planned, more casual db P The Miami-based company has big plans for its $40 mil- uncharted — and unsuccessful in announcing second-quarter LIFE line as a successful step lion Original Penguin brand, which is in the midst of a store — modern sportswear territory, earnings last month. “It is some- for the brand. rollout program, including a unit at NorthPark Center in Dallas, Liz Claiborne Inc. is steering thing of an occupational hazard “With Dana, we thought we and an expanding wholesale business to more than 400 better Ellen Tracy and Dana Buchman in the fashion business. We have could get a little edgy and con- specialty and department stores such as Barneys New York, back on track. lived through this before, and temporary, and we messed with Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. Sigrid Olsen, which had a we’ll do so again.” some of the fi ts. When you have The Original Penguin brand, with its signature penguin rough spell due to separate Catherine Sadler, president things that you know work, like logo, channels the iconic country club and golf heritage of the issues from the other fits, that’s sacro- Munsingwear Penguin casual sport label of the Fifties through brands, is also being sanct. You shouldn’t the Eighties before it turned cold and went out of business in fi xed, according to Trudy be fooling around 1996. Perry Ellis International purchased Munsingwear Penguin Sullivan, Claiborne presi- with things that the same year, though it wasn’t immediately resurrected. dent. Sullivan says Ellen consumers have Thanks in part to PEI’s aggressive relaunching of the brand Tracy has already turned shown they love,” in 2003 with men’s wear, the launch of a women’s collection in around, and she predicts Sullivan said. “But 2005 and fashion’s infatuation with casual retro style, the pen- Buchman and Olsen are a we’ve fi xed the fi ts guin is marching forward. season behind. and returned to the An Original Penguin store is to open in Los Angeles on Melrose “It’s the fashion busi- core, and the con- Avenue next month, bringing the chain’s store count to fi ve. Other ness. You take a risk and sumer has come Original Penguin units are in New York, Miami, Newport Beach, push the envelope, and right back.” Calif., and now Dallas. The 2,500-square-foot unit that opened in sometimes it works and Jill Doneger, a July at NorthPark Center courts the chain’s target contemporary sometimes it doesn’t,” she market analyst for consumers: women and men in their 20s and 30s. said. “Now we are reengag- the New York–based “Dallas is a perfect example of Original Penguin targeting ing the core consumer.” Doneger Group, the fashion-conscious consumers in highly hip cities that follow Sullivan said Claiborne large buying offi ce, trends, but who also appreciate the classic sensibility in which had shaped Ellen Tracy agreed the two bet- Original Penguin is rooted,” said Chris Kolbe, president and and Dana Buchman to the ter brands are recov- brand manager. “Our women’s business has grown each sea- requests of its retail part- ering. son since its launch. There’s a very feminine side to Original ners during the fall 2005 “I do believe Penguin that more and more women are discovering and telling season. they both, especially their friends about. And the dress category is really dominating “We were influenced Ellen, are back on right now and trending very well.” by what was happening track,” Doneger said. For fall, Original Penguin stores are merchandised with col- in the marketplace, and Better line orful knit tops, dresses, longer skirts, cropped pants, premium we were trying to react Sigrid Olsen suf- denim and polo shirts that illustrate the brand’s drive to pay Dana Buchman, Dana Buchman, to the comments of our fered a separate homage to its golf and country club aesthetic, while also tap- fall 2005. fall 2006. retailers, who were look- set of problems. ping into fashion trends. ing for bridge-contempo- Sullivan pointed to Bestsellers include a silk and wool crocheted knit dress at rary or bridge-modern,” Ellen Tracy, “fi t issues, product $195, knit tops for $70 and premium denim jeans at $150 to $250. Sullivan said. “We pushed fall 2005. missteps, delivery Top price points are about $500 for longer jackets. these lines to be a little issues and getting a “Our stores are seeing double-digit gains; our comps are re- too modern, young and little experimental ally healthy,” said Kolbe, noting that a new e-commerce site is pricey. What we learned is for the brand.” The also registering strong sales. that when you push these fits are back, the Original Penguin stores aren’t hard to spot: The cobblestone fa- lines out of their identity, products are new, cades bear no signage except for a large black-and-white penguin they don’t work. You can’t and now the brand perched above the doorway. Inside, polished hardwood fl oors, be Ellen Tracy and Dana can react within 12 plank ceilings and cozy and colorful penguin-embossed rugs give Buchman for years, and weeks, she added. the stores a laid-back ambience that’s balanced with fashion items then wake up one day and “We went through and classic styles, such as polo shirts and golf-inspired apparel. become a contemporary a rough patch, but we “One of the big benefi ts for Original Penguin fans is seeing resource.” think Sigrid is an ex- the entire expansive range of merchandise available at the At Bloomingdale’s, traordinary brand,” stores — they’re usually quite surprised,” Kolbe said. where “‘bridge’ has be- Sullivan said. “It In addition to women’s and men’s apparel, the Original come a bad word,” accord- targets the coveted Penguin stores are merchandised with footwear, eyewear, ing to Frank Doroff, senior boomer customer, watches and outerwear. A men’s luxury collection called executive vice president but with a unique Original Penguin Black Label will bow in September. and general merchandise point of view in a sea manager for ready to wear, of sameness.” A look the bridge department is Andrea Gold- from now called “A New View.” reyer, another Original Bloomingdale’s has Doneger Group Penguin. looked to the contempo- market analyst, rary department for in- Ellen Tracy, said she saw the spiration, but Doroff says fall 2006. brand go off track bridge is “not contempo- in fall 2005 and rary, it’s not too young, it’s not of the New York–based mar- predicted it will see a full re- stodgy, it’s modern.” Elie Tahari, keting firm Catherine Sadler covery by spring 2007. Eileen Tracy and DKNY are the Group, called the problems with “The prices got very high, ideal brands for that retail seg- the three brands “basic fashion and they didn’t evolve the for- ment, Doroff added. missteps.” She said they could mula that was working for them, “The merchandise had be- possibly be the result of the giving their customer the nov- come very stodgy and safe in company “taking its focus off elty she has always loved from Inside the bridge, and the industry need- the ball,” while its leaders were Sigrid,” Goldreyer said. “They NorthPark Center ed a wake-up call,” Doroff ex- preoccupied with management have a very good pant base, and store in Dallas. plained. “Every manufacturer issues, including the search for they have obviously addressed walks a fi ne line between trying Charron’s successor. the fi t of the pant, and business The Original Penguin to attract new customers and After replacing Ellen Tracy’s has improved with the uptrend- storefront. not chasing away the old cus- design team, which “wasn’t con- ing of their pant side. They still tomers. Both [Ellen Tracy and sistent with the brand’s core have a very strong customer Dana Buchman] may have gone heritage,” in April 2005 with base, and we have great hopes too far in trying to attract new Escada’s George Collins Sharp, they will be back on track.” customers. The business was “who has recaptured the heri- Claiborne has learned its les- diffi cult last year, but they have tage of Ellen Tracy with a more son: stick to its brands’ signa- made great improvements.” luxurious design,” Sullivan said ture looks to meet its ultimate Paul Charron, Claiborne the bridge brand recovered by clients’ demands. chairman and chief executive of- spring/summer. “We are brand managers that fi cer, blamed poor performance Dana Buchman shared Ellen keep the ultimate consumer in of Claiborne’s bridge and bet- Tracy’s problem of becoming our focus all the time,“ Sullivan ter business for the company’s too modern for its core client, said. “Sometimes that can mean 27 percent profi t decline in the but it is at least a season be- saying no to a retailer.“ WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 7 WWD.COM Theyskens Said Heading to Nina Ricci Continued from page one A fall Theyskens, 29, will succeed Lars Nilsson, who resigned after a three-year stint at look from Ricci to return to the U.S. It is understood Nilsson is close to securing a new fashion Rochas. post in New York, but he has declined all comment on his intentions. Nilsson did not return phone calls on Tuesday. However, Oscar de la Renta executives denied last week that Nilsson is joining the company, despite speculation that is where he is headed. Meanwhile, Theyskens, whose delicate and ethereal gowns for Rochas made the fashion pack swoon, is likely to be hailed as a strong match for Ricci, a brand syn- onymous with the innocent and romantic femininity exemplifi ed in photos by David Hamilton, who lensed Ricci campaigns in the Seventies. Founded in 1932, Ricci was deemed an unlikely house for resurrection when the founding family sold the business in 1997 to Spain’s Puig Group. At the time, its ready- to-wear designer was Myriam Schaefer and its couturier Gérard Pipart, a 30-year veteran of the house. (Couture was stopped in 1998.) More recently, James Aguiar and Nathalie Gervais had sought to rev up Ricci’s fashion department. Theyskens likely will show his fi rst collection for Ricci in March for the fall-winter 2007 season. In the wake of Nilsson’s exit, announced last week, Ricci said it would not stage a fashion show during Paris Fashion Week in October. However, a spring- summer 2007 collection will be presented to buyers and press, done by the remaining team, which includes studio director Vanessa Bellanger, an alumna of Polo Ralph Lauren and John Galliano. Since Proctor & Gamble said last month it would close the money-losing Rochas fashion house to concentrate on its profi table fragrance business, the rumor mill has had Theyskens headed to work at such venerable houses as Valentino in Rome and Oscar de la Renta in New York. However, Barcelona-based Puig, which also owns Carolina Herrera and Paco Rabanne, has long had Theyskens in its sights. Eyebrows were raised in March when Mario Grauso, president of the Puig Fashion Group, was Olivier spotted in the second row at the Rochas show in Theyskens Paris. At the time, Grauso dismissed speculation A fall look as to why he was there, saying: “Olivier’s a friend. from Nina He asked me to come to his show. I admire his Ricci. work.” Grauso could not be reached for comment THIERRY CHOMEL; BY THEYSKENS PORTRAIT GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY RUNWAY on Tuesday. couture and blending it with a modern point of view. But ultimately, it was con- According to sources, Puig had been mulling an sidered a niche label, known for extravagant gowns that could cost as much as acquisition of Rochas, whose fragrance business, $35,000 at retail. centered in Spain and France, closely matched its “What I feel modern is to make clothes that have poetry and inspiration,” market expertise. Theyskens had been spotted in Theyskens said in a recent interview. “Modernity is an attitude and an approach the corridors of Nina Ricci as early as the spring as to fashion. What is most important is that the personality of the designer come Puig pursued acquisition talks with P&G. out in the clothes.” Ultimately, P&G opted to hold onto the Rochas Theyskens will join a house perhaps best known for its hit fragrance, L’Air perfume business, with scents such as Poupée, du Temps, which was introduced in 1948 and remains a perennial favorite. The Alchemie and Lui generating annual revenues es- scent, whose name has a double entendre, comes in a bottle capped with forms timated at $45 million to $75 million, while closing of two interlocking doves. The company keeps the fragrance at the top of its the fashion house, believed to generate losses of charts by frequently tweaking L’Air du Temps’ advertising campaign and re- about 7 million euros, or about $8.9 million at cur- freshing its fl acon. rent exchange, a year. Parfums Nina Ricci’s newest fragrance, called Nina, continues in a romantic A fashion wunderkind, Theyskens leaped onto vein. It comes in an apple-shaped bottle reminiscent of the fl acon for its 1952 the international fashion scene in 1998 at age 21 scent Fille d’Eve. The entrant is meant to broaden the brand’s core audience to when he dressed Madonna in a striking black satin a younger demographic, ages 18 to 35. coat with hook-and-eye closures for the Oscars, and Parfums Nina Ricci is part of the Puig Prestige division, which counts among she anointed him her new favorite designer. She its brands and beauty licenses Carolina Herrera Perfumes, Paco Rabanne again donned his gowns for the VH1 Awards in New and Comme des Garçons Parfums. Those fragrances, together with the Prada York later that year. Fragrances and Skincare Business plus Puig Beauty, comprising mass market Theyskens was immediately dubbed a Goth hero brands, rang up sales of 894 million euros, or $1.11 billion at average exchange and a rising star. The name of fashion’s new hero rates, last year. This was an increase of 1 percent on 2004. was soon on everyone’s lips, and he was considered Puig’s beauty business has hit some snags of late. Early last year, Puig said a front-runner to succeed Alexander McQueen at it would scale back its Paco Rabanne and Nina Ricci prestige fragrance and Givenchy in 2001. Theyskens joined Rochas in 2003, cosmetics businesses in France by cutting 125 jobs there. The company said putting his signature collection on hiatus. two years of negative results in the country caused it to reorganize the busi- He replaced Peter O’Brien, who had been ness. Puig regrouped all of the brands’ national production into its factory in brought in four years earlier to revive Rochas rtw. Chartres, France, after closing a second plant in Ury, France. Fashion operations had ceased in 1955 following On the fashion side, however, Ricci has gaining fashion momentum and cred- the death of founder Marcel Rochas. ibility. In recent years, its airy, delicate dresses and feminine sportswear have Theyskens immediately established a sophisti- been embraced by New York socialites, and fashion sales have been growing cated couture look for Rochas with his debut col- rapidly, according to the company. In the spring, Nilsson took the fall 2006 collection, which featured dramatic “hunchback” lection on the road, staging fashion shows and making personal appearances to gowns and bustier dresses that enveloped the body raise visibility for the brand in the U.S., Japan, Germany and Spain. like a cream puff. Already the darling of the magazine and retail elite in America, Theyskens Theyskens made Rochas into one of the torch- should give a jolt of visibility to the Ricci brand, bringing his fl air for theatrical bearers for what has become a new refi nement in runway shows. fashion, lifting inspiration from the world of Paris — With contributions from Jennifer Weil

its own line of handbags on the catwalk. The accessories and champagne tasting of Louis Roederer NV Brut, Gaston will not be wholesaled yet, but the spring collection will be Chiquet Blanc de Blancs and Nicolas Feuillatte Rosé. Fashion Scoops available at the brand’s units in Canada, Hong Kong and its yet-to-be-opened stores in Los Angeles and New York. CHILD’S PLAY: It was kid ALL THE TRIMMINGS: Ports 1961 has a little surprise heaven at the family tea for its fi rst offi cial runway show during New York FALL ARRIVES: Summer might be almost over, but that party Lilly Pulitzer president Fashion Week: its fi rst offi cial accessories collection. doesn’t mean that the Hamptons social season is. Russian James Bradbeer Jr. hosted The Canadian brand, which relaunched in the U.S. last real estate heiress Anna Anisimova took on Southampton’s Meadow year, has called upon Georgina Goodman to design shoes advantage of her fi nal weeks at her none- Lane for The Boys’ Club of and New York fi rm Lola to make hats for its show at the too-shabby Southampton rental to host an New York last week. Besides tents at Bryant Park on Sept. 13. “I’ve been A sketch intimate luncheon and preview of the entire entertainment galore, such longing to express a total look in the market, from the fall Versace collection. A temporary boutique as a magician, a face- Marisa Noel Brown with Ford but I wanted people to get their feet wet and Ports 1961 was even set up in one of the estate’s painter and a cotton-candy and Karina Brown. get comfortable with the collection fi rst,” said spring reception rooms, where guests, including machine, the wee ones Tia Cibani, creative director and managing collection. Vanessa Trump, Camille Grammer and Ulla feasted on a variety of Lilliputian-sized delicacies — mini director of Ports. “I’ve long been an admirer Parker, perused Versace accessories, sorbet cones, mini cupcakes, mini key lime pies and tea of Georgina and Lola.” The accessories, including straw housewares and ready-to-wear. A portion of sandwiches. Mothers including Heather Mnuchin, Marisa Noel fedoras and triangle-heel pumps, take inspiration from the the proceeds went to benefi t HELP USA. The Brown and Cynthia Lufkin brought their broods to play, and, of line’s “Argentina in the Forties” theme. Ports also will show happy shoppers then sat down for a lunch Anna Anisimova course, all were dressed to match in the preppy brand. ANISIMOVA PHOTO BY TANA LEE ALVES/WIREIMAGE.COM TANA PHOTO BY ANISIMOVA 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 WWD.COM

NEW EPISODES: Move over, “Project Runway.” Cosmogirl is taking a page from the TV show by starting its fi rst teen magazine online series. The Eyeing Lashes MEMO PAD 11-part series of two- to three-minute “Webisodes” will give viewers a behind-the-scenes look at its FAMILY MATTERS: Joanne Lipman has snagged inaugural “Born to Lead” Design Search, a project another writer from her old stomping grounds. involving the magazine and the Fashion Institute of The latest defect from The Wall Street Journal to Technology that next month will award a budding As Salon Trend Condé Nast’s Portfolio is Jesse Eisinger, husband FIT graduate with a $10,000 grant from Macy’s. By Holly Haber of WSJ media reporter Sarah Ellison. Eisinger, Vice president and publisher Kristine Welker said who wrote the Ahead of the Tape column on that, in addition to receiving the grant, the winning DALLAS — The way Anna Phillips sees it, eyelash salons could be the Journal’s front page and created its Long designer will partner with Necessary Objects, a the next big beauty trend. and Short business commentary column, will women’s designer in SoHo, to produce a holiday The entrepreneurial aesthetician opened The Lash Lounge two join the Condé Nast new business magazine fashion collection that will be sold in at least 20 weeks ago, and she claims it’s the fi rst dedicated eyelash salon in as senior writer on Oct. 9. But will Eisinger’s Macy’s locations. The winner will be announced at Texas. Located in Colleyville between Dallas and Fort Worth, The gig at Portfolio be a confl ict of interest for a Sept. 13 event in Bryant Park during New York Lash Lounge focuses solely on the application of individual poly- Ellison’s media beat at the Journal? Sources Fashion Week. The four fi nalists, Adam Andrascik, ester eyelash hairs with medical-grade bonding glue. The idea is say the Journal will broach whether Ellison will Stephanie Wasyl, Carol Montoya and Goeun Cho, were to give women sweeping eyelashes without mascara. continue to cover Portfolio or if someone else chosen from a group of 90 graduating seniors and “I really see this as being the next nail salon thing,” said will cover the title on a case-by-case basis, were announced last month at the FIT graduate Phillips. “I see them but it should not hinder her ability to do a fashion show after party. The judges are Nicole popping up on every broader trend piece or a roundup that happens Fischelis, vice president and women’s fashion corner in the future. I’ve to mention Portfolio in passing. The marital director of Macy’s East, photographer Jordan Doner, BEAUTY BEAT noticed that there is one ties to Portfolio should at least provide a nice makeup artist Frances Hathaway, Cosmogirl editor in in Chicago, one in New tap into happenings at 4 Times Square, even if chief Susan Schulz, Jacqueline Azria-Palombo, creative York and one in Los Angeles, so it’s catching on quick.” it’s just a heads-up on the cafeteria’s specials. director of Cosmogirl and Ady Gluck-Frankel, creative But lash extensions are not as fast and cheap as a manicure. A Wall Street Journal representative declined director of Necessary Objects. The winner also will Phillips said the fi rst set takes 90 minutes to three hours to apply, to comment on the potential confl ict and be featured in the magazine’s December issue. at a cost of $250 with one of her technicians, $350 if she does it Eisinger and editor Lipman were unavailable for The idea behind the design search came from personally. Clients maintain the look with refi lls every two to three comment. While at the Journal, Eisinger also its readers, who list fashion as their number-one weeks, for which Phillips charges $50 to $75. spent two years in London writing the Heard in career goal. “A lot of people don’t know how hard She projects sales of $150,000 to $200,000 in the fi rst year for her Europe column. Prior to the Journal, he covered it is to be successful,” Welker added. “This will 1,650-square-foot shop, which has fi ve treatment rooms. pharmaceuticals and biotech for TheStreet.com show the reality of fashion and how to make their and Dow Jones. — Stephanie D. Smith dreams into a reality.” — Amy Wicks The entrance to The Lash Lounge. Inset: The fi nished look. Nordstrom to Anchor CityNorth in Phoenix ordstrom Inc. will open a 144,000-square-foot Nstore in the $1.2 billion CityNorth develop- Nordstrom will be one of the three anchors ment in Phoenix to serve as one of the anchors. in the CityNorth project in Phoenix. The store is to open in fall 2009. CityNorth will deliver roughly 5.5 million square feet of new space. “The arrival of the fi rst Nordstrom store in the city of Phoenix is a milestone event,” said mayor Phil Gordon in a statement. “Nordstrom is one of the most respected names in retailing, and CityNorth will be an exciting development. Together, they are another example of how Phoenix is a city on the rise.” “My goal is to franchise it,” she said. “What I would like to do The CityNorth project, in the Northeast Valley is to create a business that has the bar set so high as far as cus- of Phoenix, will include retail, offi ce, residential, tomer service and quality that when others pop up, it will be hard hotel and dining. It is being developed by a part- to compete.” nership between private Chicago-based Thomas She pampers clients with warm hand treatments during the J. Klutznick Co., which has built Water Tower eyelash service and serves wine and drinks. She hopes to host Place and the Peninsula hotel in Chicago, and Related Urban Development, which has built CityPlace bridal and girls’-night-out parties. in West Palm Beach, Fla., and the Time Warner Center in New York. Phillips began applying eyelashes two years ago in a small of- At this year’s International Council of Shopping Centers convention in Las Vegas, Ken Himmel, chief fi ce in nearby Grapevine. When demand for the service outgrew executive offi cer of Related Urban Retail, said he was courting Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s for the space, Phillips decided to open The Lash Lounge. She is main- CityNorth, as well. Williams-Sonoma’s new design store will occupy another anchor spot. taining her fi rst offi ce in Grapevine, which also offers massages “Our partnership with best-in-class retailers like Nordstrom demonstrates our commitment to de- and facials. liver the highest-quality project to the community and our tenants,” said Himmel in a statement. Phillips is a certifi ed technician and trainer for Xtreme Lashes, — Amy S. Choi a brand made in Korea. The extensions mimic the shape of natural hair and are glued to the natural eyelashes, not the skin. They are designed to last two to three months. “It’s a low-maintenance lifestyle for your eyes, and it looks fabulous,” said Phillips. “I use a lot of different lengths on my clients Uniqlo Introducing Limited-Edition Designs so I can simulate different designs. “I can give them most of the length in the middle of the eye so it By Tsukasa Furukawa launched his own collection in 2004 after a three- gives them a nonsurgical eye-lift, and I can do a cat’s-eye look with year stint with Dior Homme. fl air on the outside graduated down to the inner eye,” she added. TOKYO — Uniqlo, the low-priced casual brand oper- In November, Adam Jones, a British design- “I can mix colors in that look like natural highlights in the lashes, ated by Fast Retailing Co., is teaming up with seven er, will come in. He started his own brand in like auburn or brown or even blue or green.” up-and-coming designers active in Paris and Tokyo 2001 after working at such houses as Kenzo and to create limited-edition merchandise for fall. Christian Dior in Paris. Uniqlo will use its mass production technology Jones will give way to Mint Designs in December. and mass material sourcing capabilities to offer The Mint Designs brand is run by Hokuto Katsui, Policy Addresses Cosmetic Side Effects the collections at low prices. who launched the line in Japan after returning PARIS — The European Commission this week came out with The seven designers — four for women’s and from studying at Parsons The New School for guidelines intended to make possible undesirable effects of cos- three for men’s wear — will take turns month Design and London’s Central Saint Martins College metics more transparent to consumers in the European Union. after month introducing a collection of eight to 11 of Art and Design. He was joined by Nao Yagi in According to the guidelines published Monday in Brussels, peo- items using fabrics and other materials (supplied 2003, who studied at the same London college. ple may ask for information about a cosmetic’s undesirable effects by by Uniqlo) in what is billed as the “Designers Men’s wear lines will be designed and pro- writing to a beauty company at the address marked on its products’ Invitation Project.” duced by Theatre Products, Scye and Iliad, who packaging, calling the fi rm or posting a question on its Web sites. Uniqlo said the project is its fi rst attempt to are all active in the Tokyo Collections. The European Commission said a cosmetics company must in- bring new designers and consumers together to Uniqlo said it expects sales of one million piec- form the consumer about such effects from the product that may be able to offer fresh, high-quality and yet low- es from the project worldwide. Prices will range have already been reported. Further, the fi rm must inform the con- price merchandise that does not compromise the from 1,990 yen, or $17.16 at current exchange, for sumer on the cosmetics’ quantitative and qualitative composition. designer’s fashion sensibility. T-shirts; 4,990 yen, or $43, for slim straight jeans; To facilitate the process, Colipa, Europe’s beauty watchdog, has The leadoff designer will be Felipe Oliveira 7,990 yen, or $68.88, for rider’s down jackets and created a public directory of companies whose cosmetics are sold Baptista, whose designs went on sale last week in 12,900 yen, or $111.20, for wool coats. in the European Union. Uniqlo stores in Japan, in other overseas markets The company posted consolidated sales of 384 “This guidance on information makes life easier for consumers and also through Uniqlo’s Web site. The Portuguese- billion yen, or $3.31 billion, in the last business and industry,” said commission vice president Gunter Verheugen, born designer, who studied fashion at London’s year, making it Japan’s largest apparel manufac- responsible for enterprise and industry policy, in a statement. Kingston University, gained his experience at Max turer-retailer, with 720 outlets in Japan, eight in “This transparency helps [consumers] to make their choice in the Mara, Christophe Lemaire and Cerruti. Britain, nine in China, three in South Korea and large range of products present in the internal market.” Baptista will pass the baton in October one in Hong Kong. In April, the company opened — Jennifer Weil to Nicolas Andreas Taralis, a Toronto-born its second U.S. store in SoHo in New York follow- Canadian designer of Greek descent who ing the fi rst door in New Jersey. WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 9 WWD.COM GIA Sparkling at 75, Sets Multifaceted Agenda By Kavita Daswani bition of gems and set jewelry on loan from things.” private collectors and jewelers. Among the This includes expanding the curricu- CARLSBAD, CALIF. — With Chris Isaak pieces was a 108-carat D-fl awless diamond lum from basic gemology, such as how to performing, Madeleine Albright deliv- and diamond-studded Mercedes-Benz recognize and evaluate stones, to now of- ering the keynote address and jewelers steering wheel, loaned from the Geneva- fering business administration courses. such as David Yurman in attendance, the based Steinmetz Diamond Group, as well “We did not prepare people for run- Gemological Institute of America cele- as a Mughal-style ring from the 1700s. ning a jewelry business, which we are brated its 75th anniversary Sunday night The exhibition, which runs until the end now doing,” he said. and chiseled out some big plans. of November, also showcased the Cartier Kathryn Kimmel, the association’s vice “One of the things that happens when Bismarck sapphire necklace from 1935 and president of marketing and public rela- you have a major anniversary is, you re- a 1910 pearl pendant that once belonged tions, said the role of the GIA as a “confi - fl ect on the 75 years gone by, but it also trig- to Edith Ewing Bouvier Beale, the pater- dence builder” had not changed since the gers the visionary side of us,” said Ralph nal aunt of former fi rst lady Jacqueline Fifties, when it devised the “Four Cs” of Destino, the chairman of the GIA, consid- Bouvier Kennedy Onassis. diamond grading: cut, color, clarity and ered the world’s top diamond-grading or- Museum director Elise Misiorowski carat weight. ganization. “We’ve begun to think about said the 15 displays were intended to show- “People in India could call someone where we’d like to be years from now.” case the uniqueness of jewelry, as with the in London, and they would all be speak- Destino said the GIA, a nonprofi t or- Cartier pearl-and-diamond tiara from 1908. ing the same language,” she said. “Those ganization, would continue to fortify its “We wanted to show everything from diamond grading reports are what many international presence by establishing gem crystals to cut gemstones and jewel- diamonds today are traded on. So when more gemological schools abroad. It also ry pieces, from antique to contemporary,” someone buys a diamond, they’ll be com- is looking into setting up a grading sys- said Misiorowski. fortable with more than what they’ve just tem for pearls and synthetic diamonds, The organization seems untainted by a been told.” as well as creating its fi rst museum. scandal last year when a lawsuit accused The diamond grading, which is done The GIA’s Kathryn Kimmel The party, held at the GIA’s sprawling GIA analysts of falsifying diamond-grading in GIA labs in Carlsbad, Calif., and New and Madeleine Albright at the seaside headquarters here, highlighted reports. Four employees from its New York York, employs 700 graders working on a anniversary celebration on Sunday. a three-day International Gemological offi ce were fi red for ethics violations, and, million stones a year. But Destino said he Symposium. The event began with fl ag- as a result, its president, William Boyajian, wanted to create greater access to those a new system for grading pearls. bearers from 42 countries walking in to resigned earlier this year. Destino, a for- services by setting up “take-in” windows “There has so far been no scientifi c John Lennon’s “Imagine,” after which mer president of Cartier, said the GIA had where the public, dealers or retailers all system for pearls, but we are about to Albright — the former secretary of moved on from the incident. over the world can bring in their stones to launch one that would be adopted every- state under Bill Clinton — delved into a “We have had the highest standard of be consolidated and graded. where in the world,” he said. speech that wove in personal anecdotes integrity for 75 years, and if there was Destino noted the GIA had partnered Other innovations include the grad- about her pin collection with a wider talk one blip in the history of the GIA, it took with several consolidators around the ing of synthetic diamonds, which has be- about how the jewelry trade shapes and place last year,” he said. world to provide the service, including come a major force in the jewelry world. is shaped by foreign policy. The GIA now runs 14 gemology schools in Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong and Further down the line, there also will be “I’ve always loved jewelry,” said Al- around the world and just opened its lat- Taiwan, as well as in London, Antwerp a permanent GIA museum. bright, adding that she is working on a book est in Mumbai, India. and Geneva. Some of the international “I envision a permanent one in a about her pin collection for a scheduled “We are also looking at two other loca- schools have the take-in windows on-site, major city that would be open year-round 2009 release date. “World leaders knew tions, Tel Aviv [Israel] and Johannesburg while in other cities, the GIA has appoint- and that would attract the attention of that they could tell my mood by the type of [South Africa],” he said. “We intend to be ed consolidators and shippers in the local people everywhere, bringing a cultural pins and brooches I would be wearing.” teaching more students in more places diamond districts. component to the city,” Destino added. The event included a $50 million exhi- with more professors and teaching more The GIA also soon will be announcing “We are in the planning stages now.”

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*Buildings in NYC with delivery access only. Moda Manhattan is a property of Business Journals, Inc. 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 WWD.COM WWD West ASR Preview: Surf, Juniors Mesh Fashion Proﬁ le

By Khanh T.L. Tran and Emili Vesilind OP’s Billabong he ASR Trade Expo launches next week in printed predicts SAN DIEGO SCENE TSan Diego with the focus likely to be on the bikini is dresses like FOOD WITH FLAIR growing ties between surf and junior apparel, part of this fl irty JRDN (723 Felspar Street; 858- as action sports firms fine-tune their focus on a spring style will sell 270-5736) is an ultrasleek women’s fashion. trend for strongly. steak and seafood house with an That means retail buyers will likely get their punchy oceanfront dining room. Make pick of baby-doll dresses, skinny jeans, slim colors. sure to grab an avocado cocktail Bermuda shorts, revealing swimsuits, leggings and and catch the sunset. (Entrées tunic-length tops for spring. In recent seasons, the are priced at about $30.) differences in offerings from surf labels and looks from mainstream junior lines have become almost Dussini (275 Fifth Avenue; indistinguishable, save the ubiquitous hibiscus 619-233-4323), a trilevel prints or the action sports companies’ targeted Mediterranean bistro in the distribution in board specialty shops. Gaslamp District, features a wine ASR, which is held three times a year, said room rising from the lower level it expects 7,000 buyers from Sept. 8 to 10 to sur- through the mezzanine fl oor. The vey about 500 surf, skate and swim brands ex- third level is also a billiard room hibiting spring junior fashion at the San Diego where you can refi ll your glass and Convention Center. chill just a little longer. (Entrées Buyers and manufacturers gave WWD a pre- are priced at $20 to $30.) view of what they will be looking for and the merchandise to be offered. The Gaslamp Strip Club (340 Fifth Pamela Bennett, women’s buyer for Hansen Avenue; 619-231-3140) is a Surfboards in Encinitas, Calif., said she will be steak lounge with an atmosphere on the hunt for leggings from surf brands such that is fun and casual. Sip on as Hurley International, O’Neill Clothing and a specialty martini or an old- Billabong. school martini before your meal. Also on her list are tunic-length tops from (At about $40, entrées are large companies that include Junk Food and Skinny enough for two.) Minnie to complement contemporary versions Hansen carries by Michael Stars and Juicy AFTER HOURS Couture. Confi dential (901 Fourth Avenue; “Because of the leggings craze, the tops are get- OLIVO; BILLABONG TYLER BOYE RAQUEL AND ROXY BY OP PHOTO BY 619-696-8888) proves a place ting even longer,” Bennett said, adding that she’ll also seek manufacturers said. Hurley is concocting abstract prints of palm can be posh and sophisticated slim denim from Hurley, Roxy and Billabong. leaves and dedicating everything in its Dec. 15 delivery to a yet comfortable and inviting. This In the swimwear business — dominated by mix-and- black-and-white palette; Fox is mad for plaid; Insight is push- modern lounge is the spot to go match separates — vendors said teenagers pay atten- ing pinstripes and zebra stripes, and Split Juniors is pairing to relax and listen to good music. tion to more trends than just what professional surfers red with navy or black in horizontal stripes. are wearing. And, like their mainstream counterparts, Vibrant colors will permeate swimwear as well. “We are see- Belo (919 Fourth Avenue; 619- action sports companies are under pressure to recog- ing a huge emergence of a rainbow of colors,” said Mary Miller, 231-2000) feels like being trans- nize and deliver trends at warp speed. juniors design director at O’Neill. “It is more bold and clean ported back to the Seventies. “It’s getting faster and faster, just with the and bright, where in the past it has been more muted.” This huge club has three rooms, Internet and tons of competition out there,” said Marisa Leonard, women’s buyer for Val Surf, which each with its own style of music Dana Dartez, vice president of design and concept has fi ve locations in Southern California, said, “Solid and decor. at Roxy, the $650 million junior brand owned by colors are a little more happening these days [in swim- Quiksilver Inc. of Huntington Beach, Calif. wear], so I’ll be looking for those again.” Stingaree’s (454 Sixth Street; Roxy hopes to please savvy teenagers with the Surf Diva, the La Jolla, Calif., surf school that 619-544-9500) has an insider spring launch of a higher-priced denim label, Roxy launched its swim and apparel line last spring, toned crowd and glamorous atmo- Legend. Retailing for $78, or almost twice as much down embellishment in its second season and height- sphere. Celebrities feel at home as the core jean line that starts at $39.50, Roxy ened attention on colors including turquoise and pink, with the private cabanas on the Legend will feature six washes, including black and said chief executive offi cer Izzy Tihanyi. Oasis Rooftop Lounge and cat- off-white, and four fi ts, ranging from a skinny cut to At Rip Curl, stripes and checkerboard patterns are walks lining the dance fl oor. a relaxed boyfriend style. Roxy decided to evolve in strong. Latching onto the growing demand for stylish the competitive jean market with ring-spun mercer- swimwear, the Costa Mesa, Calif., company is adding RETAIL THERAPY ized denim, hand-sanding and resin tacking because holiday to its swim deliveries. “To be competitive, we Niche Boutique (621 West First “we were getting pretty confi dent with how our [regu- want to offer our best product as often as we can,” Street; 619-615-0782), hidden lar] denim has been retailing and the quality and the said Amy Olson, girls’ surfwear merchandiser. among the pasta shops of Little structure of it,” Dartez said. Leonard at Val Surf said that in swimwear she Italy, is worth checking out for The skinny jean will be a staple from many compa- will be buying in response to two strong trends: vin- the latest in shoes by designers nies. For instance, Fox Sports Inc., whose headquarters tage-inspired suits that have “a wider-side bottom such as Marc Jacobs, Peter Kent, are in San Jose, Calif., with design and marketing teams and bandeau tops,” and more sporty looks for “the re- BCBG and Puma. Be sure to in Newport Beach, Calif., had never offered a white or ally surfy girl that loves Billabong and O’Neill.” check out the accessories and un- skinny jean before its spring 2007 collection, said mer- Among many stops, she plans to visit O’Neill, dergarments by some of Southern chandising manager Tiana Becker. Billabong, Roxy, Raisins, Vix and her favorite swim- California’s indie designers. Becky Bonner, women’s buyer at Surfside Board wear line, Vitamin A. Shop in Newport Beach, Calif., said Volcom’s straight- Surfside’s Bonner said she will check out one- The Assembly (740 Fifth Avenue; leg denim is “always big for us. Billabong and Roxy is making and two-piece suits from Billabong, Volcom, Hurley 619-255-8051) embodies San Roxy have done a great job with price points a push with and Roxy. “We’re going to be on the lookout for major Diego style. The shop has a hip for their denim.” bold colors and trends,” she said, “including bikinis with triangle and industrial vibe and is stocked Along with leggings and Bermuda shorts, a higher-priced halter tops.” with brands such as Gentle Fawn, the skinny jean plays into the popular pro- denim line, In addition to swimsuits from top surf lines, in- Fornarina and House of Spy. portion carried over from the contemporary Roxy Legend. cluding Billabong, Roxy, Raisins and O’Neill, Hansen’s market to the junior sector: a voluminous top Bennett said she would also order women’s styles from GET PHYSICAL over a slim bottom. Leilani and Calvin Klein. Zoom Fitness Studio (8222 Key to that look is the dress, which is morphing to Amahlia Stevens, founder of Laguna Beach, Calif.- Vickers Street, Suite B1; 858- Empire from drop waists and rising to mid-thigh from based Vitamin A, added a complete line of short tunics, 565-1900) provides private and knee-length. Bowing last spring with shorts, dresses will long dresses and other cover-ups because customers buy the group classes. The studio’s top be top sellers through fall 2007, said Mandy Robinson, supplements to go to restaurants and clubs. trainers and Zen-like atmosphere design director of Billabong in Irvine, Calif. “We’re confi - Teenage girls also like to show off their legs in HotPants may be exactly what you need to dent that we’ll be adding and carrying over and continu- that have a 2.5-inch inseam. “Cuffed bottom shorts are im- recharge. Check the group sched- ing to update our shorts and dresses. I still don’t see skirts portant,” said Marla Maxfi eld, design director for Split ule online at zoomfi t.com or call being very important for the next couple of seasons.” Juniors in Irvine. “You can adjust them on the side to make ahead to schedule a private ses- Skirts that will be displayed include tulip skirts from Roxy them shorter.” sion. (Group classes are $15.) and constructed 12-inch-long miniskirts paired with leggings from Bennett said she would also reorder women’s boardshorts Hurley. from Roxy, Billabong and O’Neill. “They have been selling off the Tower23 (723 Felspar Street; Underscoring the importance of its women’s business, Hurley, the charts,” she said. “This was the best year ever for boardshorts.” 858-270-2323) is a boutique Costa Mesa, Calif., unit of Nike Inc., named Maria Barnes to the new For more clothes to wear on the street, buyers can head to hotel on the beach and features position of senior vice president to oversee the strategy and direc- Agenda, a 120-brand trade show that includes emerging streetwear in-room spa treatments such as tion of its young contemporary division. Barnes previously oversaw labels like Harajuku Lovers and established names such as Reebok. the Koi Calm Facial ($145) or the North American sales for Roxy’s swimwear and accessories and Agenda will run concurrently with ASR for the fi rst two days at the Sea Goddess Salt Scrub ($135). managed Quiksilver’s now-defunct contemporary brand, Alex Goes. San Diego Concourse, a mile from ASR at the convention center. — Sarah Koch Bold colors and allover prints will saturate spring selections, — With contributions from Rachel Brown WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 11

JAMES PERSE, a designer and manufacturer of women’s and men’s contemporary apparel is seeking responsible, committed, and highly energetic professionals with a developed sense of contemporary style to fill the following Los Angeles based positions: RETAIL SALES DIRECTOR 3 yrs exp min as Retail Director managing multiple retail locations including startup. Must have a proven track-record of achieving sales goals; focus on cust service. E-COMMERCE DIRECTOR Responsible for business development, strategic planning and analysis, brand marketing and content sales analytics. BA degree and/or min exp 4 yrs. DESIGN ROOM MANAGER Responsible for design process for various business segments, goals that support line plans, assortment strategies and price points. Develop and manage seasonal calendars. Work with design, merchandising and pre-production teams to build strong communication and process flow. Min 5 yrs exp in design and product development processes. Contemporary womenswear company in Irvine, California seeks: QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTOR DESIGNER Quality Control inspector to handle garment inspections. Must be exp’d, proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop & general Min of 3 yrs exp in cut & sew knits and wovens. Must computer skills. Job includes following the company’s understand sewing construction, repairs and finishing. design principles, creating spec sheets, fitting samples and Bilingual English/Spanish a plus. communicating daily with the production factory overseas. Working w/ private label buyers is also a responsibility. FIELD MERCHANDISING COORDINATOR Liaison from the field to the corporate office, responsible PRODUCTION PERSON over visual merchandising execution and brand compliance Must have experience and be extremely organized and able for Los Angeles, Orange County and San Diego regions. 3-5 to communicate with overseas factories and private label buyers DESIGNERS yrs merchandising experience. to coordinate the production process A-Z. Job entails checking Career defining opportunity with our Women’s luxury lifestyle each step in production, ordering all trims, placing P.O.s and brand. Tommy Bahama Women’s is taking an established Excellent compensation and benefits package available. booking shipment dates. brand and reinventing the line. We have a collaborative, SALESPERSON entrepreneurial environment and are looking for talented TO APPLY: Experience in selling to boutiques and private label buyers is Designers wanting to grow a line and manage categories. Qualified candidates, please forward your resume preferred but aggressive salespeople are welcome to interview. To create a sophisticated line that dresses our woman from and salary history to [email protected] Job entails calling customers daily to obtain orders. Participation morning to night, candidates must have high taste standards Or fax 323-297-2527 in future trade show sales are a possibility. and exp at the Designer level. 5+ years exp, ability to see STOCK/SHIPPING PERSON and interpret trends, and self motivated. Must be expd in stock mgmt and shipping. Job involves invoicing , We are a lifestyle brand, located in Seattle, WA organizing stock and shipping to boutiques as well as to dept Strong compensation and benefits package stores. EDI experience & computer skills a plus. Take the first step, we’ll bring you the rest of the way. Product Developer Apply online: www.tommybahama.com EOE TravelSmith Outfitters, located in Novato, 30 minutes north Fax: 949-748-7615 Email:[email protected] of San Francisco, is the premier catalog and e-commerce retailer of travel apparel & accessories. We are seeking an exp’d catalog (5+ yrs women’s apparel) Product Developer with a proven track record of developing winning women’s apparel product. TravelSmith offers a comprehensive benefits package, including 401(k) with company match, unique time off benefits, excellent work environment, and fantastic product discounts. Candidates interested in this outstanding career opportunity should send resume w/ cover letter & salary history to MEN’S TECHNICAL DESIGNER [email protected] (please note Product Developer in the email subject line) or via Fax (415) 884-1608. Position Based in Los Angeles Visit us online at www.travelsmith.com to find out more about 3+ years experience in men’s contemporary market. Responsible our company. for all tech aspects of cut & sew tops, knit bottoms, woven bottoms, sweaters, woven tops and outerwear. Must be able to create specs from both established blocks and sketches. Knowledge of garment construction and sewing details a must. Work alongside in-house patternmaker and sample sewing team. Fit garments on fit model and make all necessary adjustments to paperwork. Communicate with both overseas and domestic vendors on a daily basis. Work closely with design team to ensure proper fit and styling is achieved. Create graded specs. Must be EXCEL proficient. Monitor development progress from 1st proto to T.O.P. sample. We are a fast Apparel Sourcing Sr. Manager paced, upbeat team looking for a qualified technical designer. American Sporting Goods, based in Southern California, is seeking a se- Please email resumes to [email protected] nior manager for our Apparel sourcing division. Responsible to lead & di- rect sourcing process by coordinating global product ordering functions for apparel worldwide. Must be aware of int’l custom laws, posses excellent communication skills, thrive in a fast-paced environment, and be able to travel in and outside of U.S. Minimum 7 years exp in related field with concentration in import/export/offshore production. Submit confidential resume & salary requirements to [email protected] or fax 949.862.4896.

Is looking for an: Assistant Designer with 2 + years of Import Experience ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Please email your resume to: Los Angeles based designer seeking motivated dynamic [email protected] or fax to: 323-692-0493 individual to assist in all design room activities. Must be organized, aware of current trends, and a team player. Min. 5 years experience. Excellent Benefits. Fax resume with salary history to 213.747.9311 or Email [email protected] 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006

ASHLEY By 26 International KLS IN-HOUSE SALESPERSON Sales Reps SEASONED BUYER WANTED! LOS ANGELES Exciting new women’s contemporary collection by Kimora Lee Simmons is seeking independent road Arden B. is the fashion brand for the Well est’d fast growing women/junior apparel co. based in sophisticated, feminine, contemporary woman with sex appeal. Los Angeles is looking for an aggressive detail oriented sales reps. Candidates must have established relation- individual to handle some of our existing house accounts as ships with contemporary specialty stores. Luxury dept Arden B. is headquartered in Foothill Ranch, CA and provides a well as expand our customer base. Candidates must be stores a +. Must possess strong road presence and culture like no other. Our employees enjoy a dynamic, energetic experienced w/ excellent communication skills and goal driven. and creative environment with great benefits and an be able to attend four national tradeshows annually. We are a co. that has been in business for almost 10 yrs. alternative work schedule providing 12 extra days off per year! servicing Private Label production as well. Territories avail: NE, SE, MW, WCoast- BUYER: Responsible for maximizing sales and profitability Exp. 3-5 years. Please e-mail inquiry to: Please email your resume to [email protected] through the development and implementation of strategy, [email protected] analysis and appropriate reaction to sales trends. REQUIREMENTS: 5+ years of retail buying in contemporary apparel. Director of APPLY: Submit resume to: [email protected] SUPERSTARS Senior Account Apparel Operations Are you currently a Sales Professional with a million Executive/Manager Rapidly growing retail chain JUST MANAGEMENT dollar plus book at a luxury retailer? DESIGNER Planner/Scheduler LA Position Available with 44 stores in Southern Strong Math skills a Must! Then you have an opportunity to improve your Designer multi line show- California seeks a Director of LaFiore Lingerie earning potential significantly! room is seeking a candidate Apparel Operations to oversee Major lingerie sleepwear company [email protected] that has the ability to build Leading Luxury Retailer has opportunities available buying, distribution, presentation, has an immediate opening for an 800-544-5878 and manage sales. Must be and development of new concept experienced Designer. Sleepwear / in Orange County, CA in South Coast Plaza a self starter and motivated, Daywear for women & children. energetic, and have strong store. Must be familiar with the Prepare rough & detailed drawings. Please send Resumes to: personal and communication Urban and Hispanic markets; Photoshop/Illustrator, CAD a must. [email protected] skills. Minimum 3 years ex- 3 - 5 years apparel experience Fax resumes to 510/490-2804 or perience ONLY. necessary. Competitive salary E-mail: [email protected] Please e-mail: and benefits offered. [email protected] INSIDE SALES- Salon Products Please fax resume and salary Chatsworth based professional products manufacturer of premium history to: (310)767-2171 salon and spa products has an opening within our inside sales department. Individual must be self motivated, computer competent, punctual, reliable, able to multitask, organized, have a history of sales success, leads development, excellent phone skills, be goal driven and detail oriented. Background SALES ANALYST in salon, spa or cosmetics preferred. Oliver Peoples, the luxury eyewear company, is seeking a sales For more information, please fax 818-717-1683 or analyst to join their team at the Beverly Hills Headquarters. The email to [email protected]. EOE analyst will work closely with the company’s domestic and international sales managers to develop sales forecasts; recommend assortments and monitor model stocks in inventory. West Coast Qualifications and requirements are: SALES & MARKETING EXECUTIVE Regional Retail Director •BS in finance from an accredited university Must have BA or BS Sales/ Marketing MBA We currently have a newly created, exciting opportunity availa- •2-5 yrs working experience as a sales analyst an expertise Preferred 10yr. min exp with apparel company ble for a West Coast Regional Retail Director. The ideal candi- in Excel and Powerpoint Knowledge of high end women’s contemporary Lines date will have at least 10 years of Retail Management exp and •Understanding of financial analysis and modeling Strong contacts w/ merchandising executives of Boutiques & will work to maximize sales and profitability by driving high Salary commensurate with experience. Good benefits and Major Retailers and consistent standards in the retail stores within this region. working environment. Position based in Los Angeles This position will report to the SVP, Retail and will be based on the West Coast. Primary responsibilities include: E-mail: [email protected] Please send cover letter and resume to •Outlining clear and measurable goals for Store Managers [email protected] and Sales Associates. •Visiting stores on a regular basis. •Coaching and monitoring Sales Associate training. FOR JOSEPH •Developing contacts to understand each market and to plan Sales Opportunity! for ongoing recruitment. You have successfully sold to WEST COAST SALES MANAGER •Acting as a liaison with all corporate departments to maxi- Wal-Mart, Target and mize marketing and merchandising initiatives. Dynamic person for majors and •Preparing analyses of business from multiple points of view large US retailers. LA Based. including budgeting. Please fax your resume to: specialty stores. Benefits. If you are interested in joining the Ferragamo team, please (310) 286-7272 Fax resume: 310-842-7916 REF: BH fax your resume and salary requirements to (201) 553-6194 or E-mail: [email protected] NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Beautifully Renovated, light, window offices. 511- 3480 sq ft - can combine Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Patterns/Samples/Production Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms Any Style - Full Service Accounting Clerk Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Fashion Co. seeks an individual who is Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. good with analysis & figures. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Fax res. w/cover letter: 212-398-9695 Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 Admin Since 1967 W-I-N-S-T-O-N APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN * SALES * MERCH SHANGHAI EXP’D MFR ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Better/designer eveningwear supplier. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Quality work, Quick turnaround Call (212) 461-4852 www.alamoda.com ASSISTANT DESIGNER Leading better separates co. looking JOBBER/EXPORTER for organized, motivated, creative fire- We buy better goods. All categories, 1407 BROADWAY cracker willing to do whatever it takes, including fabrics. Immediate $$. SHOWROOMS/OFFICES must have experience- 2 years with Please call 212-279-1902 TREBOR MGMT China, drawing skills, spec, sketch, Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 technical packages, EMB layouts. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Fax resume to 212-302-3872/ Natasha PRODUCTIONS 14th-40th St. Showroom-Hot Lofts All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Assistant to 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Merchandiser search- www.manhattanoffices.com Seeking individual who considers themselves hip with a deep under- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, standing of the Latino culture to assist Search For Space In Garment Center merchandiser of brand new Urban Latino Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee PRODUCTIONS line. Experience in working with press www.midcomre.com Full service shop to the trade. and getting editorial placements a Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. plus. Fax resume to 212-239-2766 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 13

FABULOUS OPPORTUNITIES!!! Freelance and Permanent! Tech Designers-All Levels, Patternmakers, CAD, Production, Designers-Loungewear Asst., Men’s Knits Send resumes ASAP!!! Email resume to: [email protected]

Buyer DESIGNER Senior Buyer For boys sportswear size 4-18. Must be Dynamic, culturally rich entertainment able to merchandise and design line. company is seeking a Senior Buyer with Responsibilities include travel to factories 5-7 years experience buying branded/ overseas. Long term freelance is OK. unbranded & private label activewear for Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Men & Women as well as food & beverage products in a multi-unit environment. Designer Full Collection $100K Responsibilities include the selection, Knits/Wovens/Sweaters negotiation and purchase of approved Moderate Missy Market merchandise. Additional responsibilities require sourcing new and reviewing Designer Sweater $85K existing merchandise to ensure products Illustrator/Photoshop. Asia Travel remain competitive and consistent with national brand position. Successful Colorist $40-43K candidates will posses: Light Box, Lab Dips, Color Comments INVOICING/ORDER ENTRY [email protected] 212-947-3400 Knowledge AIMS. •BA with a concentration in business Fax resume: 212-704-4340 or and/or merchandising email [email protected] •MBA preferred DESIGNER •Experience setting up Open-to-Buy GREAT OPPORTUNITY AVAILABLE procedures for all categories as well Immediately w/ NYC import Co. to cre- ITS LABOR DAY as preparing merchandise assortment ate New Handbag and Backpack lines plans for multiple locations from concept to final product. Must FALL INTO A NEW JOB have ability to create line, spec, do cad * Merchandisers To $125K •Experience as a merchandise and * Sales $65K++ Comm floor planner & presentation work and strong communication skills. Knowledge of MAC, * Tech Designers To $65K •Superior written, verbal and computer * Prod Devel Mgrs To $125K skills (Excel and Word) Illustrator and Photoshop a must. Min- imum of 5 yrs experience in backpack * Graphic Designers $55K •Prior budget control required * Production/All levels $45K- 85K •Staff responsibilities required and handbag area required. Fax resume to 212-695-0991, Attn: Art Dept. * Shipping Mgr/ Wal-Mart $BOE Qualified candidates should send Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or Email: resume with salary requirement to: [email protected] [email protected] DESIGNER KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Large private label outerwear woven *Only resumes with salary requirements bottoms & blazer mfr seeks designer will be considered. EOE/AA/M/F/V/D w/min 2 years exp. Must have strong * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * computer skills in Illustrator. Should *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men CAD ARTIST be well organized and detail oriented. *Color Analyst-Spectro Meter-Labdips Junior Knits Overseas travel required. Great *Customer Serv. /Sales Support Rep 35-40K+ opportunity. Fax resume 212-643-0593 *Designer -Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr-Missy Req STRONG Illustrator/Photoshop *Designer Assist Boys-Girls-Illustrator Should Have Bright, Colorful Designer *Dir. of Sourcing Mens Apparel-200-250K+ Prints, Repeats, Illustration in Book Major apparel company seeks experi- *Patternmaker-Production-Gerber $Hi enced individual to create and design *Product Mgr or Coord-Lab Dips E-Mail [email protected] the line for men’s/young men’s Latino *Production Assists or Coords Walmart Exp KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS sportswear brand. High end urban *Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI specialty stores distribution. Experience *Production Coords - bilingual Chinese $ HI CAD Designer Textile with sample making necessary. *Technical Designer Jr. Denim Apparel Strong CAD skills in Photoshop, Illustrator/Photoshop required. *Technical Designer or Assist. woven/knits Illustrator & Pointcarre. Minimum Fax resume to 212-239-2766 *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI 3 yrs in creating woven and knit Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) patterns. Good cotton woven and knit DESIGNER LINGERIE & SLEEPWEAR COMPANY fabrication knowledge. creative, organized Seeking exp’d contemporary sweater designer in all aspects of line develop- HAS 2 OPENINGS: and a multi-tasker. Experienced First Patternmaker Email resume: [email protected] ment. Sketching, illustration, specs & cads. Detail oriented w/ strong sense of Pls. have recent exp. with bras, panties, color/ trend. Fax resume to: & sleepwear. Swimwear & eveningwea r exp. also acceptable as well as knowledge CLERICAL 212-719-0645 or call 212-302-0489 Bright clerical wanted. Must speak of construction. well. Billing, filing, relief recept. and Experienced Lingerie Samplemaker varied office tasks. Will train. Fax Design/Prod’n. Coordinator Pls. have recent exp. sewing constructed resume and salary to (212) 398-9817. Design Co. seeks individual with BFA/BA garments (corsets/bras), ability to work & 2 yrs. exp. in fashion. Work in NY/ in friendly fast paced environment. Euro. & Asian factories. Fax: 212-967-1847 Pls. e-mail resume & salary requirements CONTROLLER NEEDED to: [email protected] Growing infant wear company seeks a Entry Level Spec Technician controller w/at least 10 years exp. Must The Isfel Co., Inc. seeks bright person be very organized, and efficient. Can- to assist in Spec Dept. will consider on Marketing Associate didate will have BA/BS in accounting. the Job Training.Qualified Candidate Please fax resume to: 212-279-0131 Internationally recognized to-the-trade should be computer proficient, and Design Collection (carpet, furniture, Order Processing / highly motivated to learn. fabric) has an immediate opening for Customer Service/ Fax Resume (212-465-1085) an exp’d marketing / public relations Customer Service Product Production Assistant person. Friendly working environ- MERCHANDISER Fast paced Junior Import Co. Motivated, Assistant Product North Bronx accessory company seeks Fabric Coordinator - $40K ment, socially responsible company. Major apparel company seeks organized, good follow-up, strong com- experienced customer service/ production Minimum 3 yrs. experience in ordering Successful applicant will be detail Merchandiser for girls 4-16 with solid puter skills: Outlook/Excel, Data Entry, Manager assistant .Accessory experience a plus. fabric, calculating needs, actualizing oriented, have superior writing skills, merchandising knowledge and experi- Aria or AS400 exp a plus. E-mail resume : NJ based importer selling to major E-mail resume : [email protected] cut tickets, expediting orders & con- be outgoing and able to work under ence with mass markets such as [email protected] retail chains seeks Asst Product Mgr trolling fabric inventory. Must possess pressure and tight deadlines as an Wal-Mart. Responsibilities include for our Crafts Marketing Department. excellent Excel / computer skills. Great Associate in the Marketing Department. identifying trends, building and PATTERNMAKER Our Crafts Line includes Ribbon, Data Entry/Cstmr. Srvc./EDI benefits including medical & dental. Occasional travel. We offer competi- maintaining relationships with buyers Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. Beads, Trims, Bridal and Baby. Re- Seeking exp’d., detail oriented individual. Fax resume, attn. Cathy (631) 673-6744 tive salary, full health benefits, 401K. and providing direction to design person, Bklyn warehouse. Gerber sponsibilities include extensive product Aria system a +. Fax or E-mail resume: E-mail resume to: team. Must maintain schedules and skills a plus. Fax: (718) 369-4927. costing, product specifications, proof- 212-515-2424 / [email protected] [email protected] be able to work in fast paced environ- ing packaging and product, and daily (no calls please) ment. Excellent salary and benefits. PLANNER ...... TO 90K communication w/ overseas suppliers. Please fax resume to (212)239-2766. Mid Tier stores, sales / inventory Candidate must have strong EXCEL Jennifer Glenn SRI search 212-465-8300 spreadsheet literacy and be detail ori- FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES [email protected] ented and highly organized. Excellent Merchandiser/Designer www.srisearch.com salary/benefits. Send letter, resume, DATA/ORDER ENTRY Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 For boys sportswear size 4-18. Must be salary requirements to: Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 able to merchandise and design line. [email protected] Responsibilities include travel to facto- Order Entry/Sales Asst EDI COORDINATOR Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Children’s Sleep wear co seeks order 7th Ave Co. seeks candidates w/ extensive [email protected] ries overseas. Long term freelance is knowl. of all aspects of Order OK. Fax resume to 212-239-2766 entry/sales assistant w/min 2 yrs exp. Processing/EDI Transactions & AS400 www.raskinexecsearch.com Responsibilities include: order place- system. Must have at least 3 yrs exp. in ment, account follow-up and interface the garment industry. Be able to trouble w/ Design and Production personnel. shoot & can help w/ customer service. MERCHANDISER Ideal candidate must be organized, Product Coordinator Pls email resumes to: Major apparel company seeks experi- detail oriented and thrives in a multi- Responsible for corresponding all [email protected] or FIRST SAMPLEMAKER enced individual to create and faceted, fast paced environment, and design features to oversea factory fax to 509-757-7814 Exciting opportunity for an experienced merchandise the line for men’s/ young must have experience working with from design to production stages as bridal/RTW first samplemaker. men’s Latino sportswear brand. High-end major retailers, such as Target, Sears, well as handling approval tracking Great pay plus full company benefits! urban speciality stores distribution. JC Penney, and Kohl’s. Excellent ben- process. Walmart & Retail link expe- DESIGNER $70K Please fax or e-mail resume to: Experience with sample making efits. Fax resume to: (212) 683-7619 rience is a plus. Please fax resume Shoes. N. J. Great Growth Oppty! 212-869-5795 necessary. Illustrator/ Photoshop required. with salary requirements to: [email protected] [email protected] Fax resume to (212)239-2766 212-685-4341 Attn: Lauren 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006

Product Development Technical Design Dept Store Rep Manager Assistant Knitwear Designer sportswear company seeks Charming Shoppes Inc.,oneofthe 525 America regional reps to coordinate with country’s largest multi-brand, multi- Nordstrom buyers and branch Knitwear co. seeks Assistant for Nordstrom stores (1 for DC region and channel specialty retailers, is currently technical design and production. looking for a Product Development 1 for Northern California). Excellent Candidates should possess working communication and customer service Manager with strong petite experience. knowledge of the following: tech Responsibilities include creating skills required. Fax resume or email to: packs, production specs, fittings, and F:(212)695-9483 E: [email protected] merchandise programs from initial lab dips. Great opportunity for recent concept through production, coordi- design graduate. Salary and benefits nating print/sketch development with commensurate with experience. Luxury Clientele CAD/art studios, monitoring sample Please fax resume to: 212-921-5069 Senior Account Executives development, research color/trends, Specialist and competitive shopping. Technical Designers ABS., a leader in Contemporary/Designer clothing, currently New York based luxury brand seeks Candidate must possess 2-4 years of has exciting opportunities for Senior Account Executives to highly motivated, energetic and sales experience with sourcing and produc- Associate Sweater- 35-40K driven professional for retail store in tion, knowledge of computer software Associate CNS Knits- 35-40K join our Sportswear, Streetwear, and Dress Division team in Soho. Suitable candidates must have and Excel, & strong production/ *Web-Based Tech Pack Exp Req* strong selling skills, a passion for fash- planning skills and the ability to cost New York. This opportunity is available for results driven, ion and a minimum of 3 years exp in a product. Our corporate headquarters Assistant CNS Knits- 27K self-motivated sales executives that will be challenged to an upscale women’s retail environment. are located in Bensalem, PA. We offer *Illustrator Skills Required* Applicants with a clientele book are competitive salary and benefits pack- open new businesses, build existing businesses and rebuild preferred. We offer a competitive salary age, including 401K, PTO, and a Stock E-Mail: [email protected] and strengthen relationships within the marketplace. Candidates and a generous benefits package. Purchase Plan. Some travel required. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Full/Part time positions available. must have 3-5 years experience in sales. An established Please fax resume to (212) 966-7506 or Please e-mail or fax resumes to: E-mail to [email protected] E: [email protected] contact with Better Contemporary/Designer Specialty Stores F: (215) 633-2440. and Departments Stores is a must. Understanding of Retail Zabari (SYLVER) Planning and Account Management is required. Trendy Soho Boutique seeks Product Development Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources Sales & Management Team Players. (213) 891-2812 or email: [email protected] Minimum 2 years experience. Manager For NY and NJ Locations. Lifestyle and bedding Co. seeks E/O/E E-mail: [email protected] organized, creative individual. Responsi- bilities to include identify emerging trends, design concepts & hands on Account Executive sourcing for tweens division. 2 yrs Contemporary Handbag showroom seeks experience a must. Great opportunity. dynamic Sales Executive with 3-5 years Email resume to: [email protected] experience with Dept. & Specialty Store or Fax: 212-643-0684 accounts. Must be motivated, personable, Sales Executive detail oriented, and able to thrive in a Production Assistant fast paced environment. Ideal candidate We are an exciting, established, Growing Contemporary Min. 1 year in production. Must be will have strong communication skills diverse & growing jewelry company computer literate, organized and detail and familiarity with retail math. Room Sportswear Company seeks oriented. Fax resume to Mike: 212-270-2460 for growth. Please E-mail resumes to: looking to expand our team. [email protected] a motivated sales exec with RETAIL SALES 3-5 years experience with Production Co-ord/Manager Fashion for Hire is looking for Free- Leading bra company seeks organized lance employees to work trade shows REPRESENTATIVE Specialty & Department detail-oriented, analytical team leader (Coterie), for FT positions & Interns. stores. Travel req’d. to help manage production. Seeking people who would love to gain Seeking a dynamic Full-Time Fax resume in conf. to 212-725-0089 exp. in fashion. Fabulous attitude & Associate for our SoHo Location. E-mail resume: or email [email protected] excellent work ethic is a plus. Email: [email protected] Must be a polished professional. [email protected] PRODUCTION Key Account Sales Asst •Strong communication skills Pet Fashion Co. seeks indiv. With 2-3 Very organized detail oriented indiv. •Fine jewelry background & years production experience. Follow needed by fast paced children’s acces- developed clientele book in up with Target and Wal-mart accts. sory co. Must be exp’d in major New York Overseas travel experience a plus. account retail systems including Wal- Must have good communication skills, Mart’s Retail Link. Resp. include: •2-3 years of Jewerly Retail Exp be detail oriented, organized and CTL, Supplier Quote, Ad Forms, Prep- highly motivated. Excel a must. aration Of Samples For Meetings. We offer excellent company benefits Fax or email resume & salary req. to: Candidate should have min 2 years 646-486-1336, [email protected] current exp with excellent computer Please email resume to skills and wonderful attitude. Salary [email protected] commensurate with exp. This is a great oppty for the right indiv. Good Quality Control / Knits benefits and great work environment. L.I.C. area. Must have extensive knowl. Pls email: [email protected] of knit garment construction. Ability to do quality & spec audits. 5 years exp NY SALES POSITION SALES REPS a must. Good salary and benefits. MISS CHIEVOUS CLOTHING Young fashion denim company seeks Bilingual Chinese/English preferred. Jr. Separate Tops/2 yrs exp. Please fax resume to 212-947-7218 motivated, energetic Sales Reps in w/specialty and Dept. Stores needed CA, TX, GA, IL, VA, PA.Mustpos- send resume to fx 213-488-0624 or sess existing accounts and proven [email protected] sales record with major Dept. Stores RECEPTIONIST and Boutiques. Apparel Co. seeks F/T Receptionist. Must Rodier, an est’d European sportswear Email: [email protected] be computer literate and able to perform collection seeks an energetic, exp’d, Fax: 212-398-5535 other office tasks. Fax/E-mail resumes: motivated Salesperson for it’s re-launch 212-695-7709 / [email protected] in the United States. Must have 8-10 yrs. of exp. and strong contacts SALES SUPPORT with better specialty & department Major apparel company seeks individual stores. Some travel req’d. For immediate for fast-paced position in sales SOURCING consideration please fax resume to: department. Must have Wal-Mart/ retail Major men’s/young men’s garment (212) 764-4848 link experience. Responsibilities manufacturer seeks high level sourcing include working closely with produc- executive to travel overseas, negotiate Sales/ Admin Ass’t tion, following up on deliveries, and with factories and all related duties. communicating with the buying office. Product is geared toward Dept store Est’d UK co. with offices in New York seeking individual with background Individual will also track merchandise and mid tier level. Please fax resume from warehouse to selling floor. to (212) 239-2766. sales experience. To assist Senior Sales Manager in customer communications, Strong computer and organizational taking orders, arranging meetings and skills required. Excellent salary and general office duties. benefits. Please fax resume to (212)239-2766 SPEC TECH - Freelance Please send all CV’s attn: Rhona Lingerie company needs spec tech for Sutton: [email protected] approx 6 hrs, 2-3 times a week. Be able to measure garments correctly & record THE LIRIC GROUP measurements. Min. 1 yr. exp. specing. Sales Execs Needed SPECIALTY STORE SALES Pls. e-mail resume with hourly wage to: Busy multi line showroom seeks strong [email protected] Junior Handbag Sales- BOE exp’d. salesperson to join our team. Junior Denim Sales- BOE Email Resume to: [email protected] Infant/Toddler Dept St Sales- BOE Sr. Sweater TD $110K Hang with BCBG *STRONG CONTACTS REQ* WORK FROM HOME! TD Sweater $65K E-mail [email protected] Independent Sales Rep. for the off Secaucus, NJ KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS price women’s apparel category. Must [email protected] 212-947-3400 be able to contact customers using email and phone. Must have established Sales Executive customer base or be willing to develop. SR. TECHNICAL DESIGNERS Seeking a dynamic Sales Professional Good commission structure and great with at least 3 years experience with growth potential. & TECHNICAL DESIGNERS leading Specialty & Dept. Stores in the Call Ariel: 213-748-4890 or Leading women’s apparel catalog co. Women’s Designer Sportswear Market. Email:[email protected] based in sunny Tucson, AZ seeks F/T Must be motivated, organized, and possess www.getmedressed.com Sr. Technical Designers and Technical excellent presentation, communication, Designers to work on premises w/ TD and computer skills. Will be responsible team. Must have minimum of 3 - 5 for maintaining and growing existing years experience in women’s apparel accounts and opening new ones. We look or manufacturing industry. Working forward to hearing from you. Fax resume knowledge of pattern making, with salary history to: 212-391-2142 garment construction, exposure to garment manufacturing, fit & evaluate garments, approve specs. Responsible Sales Executive for supervising, training and developing Sportswear Co. seeks an energetic staff. Excellent computer skills w/ sales professional. Must have major knowledge of PDM, AutoCad. Great active Department/Specialty in all work environment & benefits package. sizes. Great Showroom. Fax: 212-764-7663 Relocation eligible. Fax/ e-mail resume or email: [email protected] & sal requirements to 203-661-3524 or e-mail to: [email protected] EOE Sales Executive Well established Home Décor Company. STYLECAREERS.COM Located on Fifth Avenue seeks Sales Design Director - Footwear Execs w/ 3-5 yrs of Exp. Mass, Dept, Handbag Designer Mid-Tier, Drug Chain, Club. License Production Asst - Mult Pos Exp. a +. $$ Base Salary + Commission $$ Control Buyer Email Resume to: Tech Design – Mult Pos [email protected] Fabric R&D Fax:(212)643-0684 Marketing Manager Merchandise Planners SALES - JUNIOR DIVISION Patternmaker – All Levels Sportswear, Swim, tops and bottoms [email protected] Call Janet Jourdan 727-772-8717 Janetandassoc @tampabay.rr.com TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s *TD-Outerwear Jackets $90K SALES *TD-Runway Dsgnr-Full Collection $75-90K L.A. based co. in need of an exclusive *TD Woven- Bottoms & Jeans $75K JR Dress Rep for our N.Y. showroom. *Spec Tech Wovens or Sweaters $50K-60K Merchandising experience a plus. Fax [email protected] 212-947-3400 resume to: 323-278-5450 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 15

RETAIL SALES OPPORTUNITIES Catherine Malandrino, a leading fast-growing, luxury women’s brand, seeks highly motivated professionals for their flagship Meatpacking and Soho locations: Retail Management Professionals AND Full-Time Sales Professionals All candidates must have a minimum of 2 years luxury goods retail experience. Health/Medical/Dental/Vision benefits plus 401K. Please send resume with cover letter to: [email protected]

Handbag Sales Rep Krina, Ltd seeks indep sales rep to sell handbags at wholesale to US retail stores. Min 2 yrs rep exp in women’s apparel. 10% comm. Send resume and cover letter to: [email protected]

Road Reps Reps for Bridesmaid & innovative young Mother of the Bride collections. Territo- ries include Southwest for both divisions, and Soutneast for young Mother of the Bride. Must travel the trerritory. Fax resumes to Diane at: 212-221-0571 WWD The Magazine

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