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By Land Or Sea Find Your Sea Legs

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By Land Or Sea Find Your Sea Legs CONSUMER BLUES/2 FIXING BUCHMAN AND TRACY/6 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 30, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear By Land Or Sea Find your sea legs. Resort’s STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE ANTONIA STYLED BY classic American looks, featuring SIONNEL; plenty of red, white and blue, are yachting fare with a fl irty twist. Here, Gant’s cotton seersucker blazer, cotton polo, shirt and shorts and Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, photographed at Shearwater Sailing-Manhattan By Sail. For more, see pages 4 and 5. ER; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL PROFES RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL ER; HAIR BY Olivier’s Next Gig: Nina Ricci Said Close to Signing Theyskens By Miles Socha to become the creative director of house with couture roots, a PARIS — From Rochas to Ricci. Nina Ricci. This confirms a report substantial perfume franchise and TRUMP; MAKEUP BY ROANNA BALES/MAKEUP FOR EV TRUMP; MAKEUP BY Less than six weeks after Olivier in WWD Aug. 23. a fledgling fashion business. Theyskens found himself out of According to market sources, Neither Nina Ricci officials nor a job with the shuttering of the the contract could be finalized the designer could be reached for Rochas fashion house, the Belgian within a week, putting Theyskens comment Tuesday. design star is zeroing in on a deal at the helm of another French See Theyskens, Page 7 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: KRISTINA/ ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2006 WWD.COM Consumer Confi dence Dives in August WWDWEDNESDAY By Vicki M. Young 83.8 from 88.9 in July. increased to 12.9 percent from Sportswear “Looking ahead, the glass re- 10.9 percent, while those who ex- FRETTING OVER JOBS AND mains half empty as consumers pected business conditions to im- the economy, consumer senti- are growing increasingly more prove edged down to 15.9 percent FASHION ment as measured by the Con- pessimistic about the short-term from 19.6 percent last month. Better and bridge designers are setting sail for resort with preppy seersucker ference Board plunged to its outlook,” Franco said. Regarding the six-month job 4 blazers and chic shirtdresses that look great on and off the deck. lowest level so far this year. UBS economist Maury N. outlook, the picture is dimmed. The Conference Board’s Au- Harris said in a research note, Consumers who said they expect- GENERAL gust Consumer Confi dence Index “Until August, the Conference ed more jobs to become available Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens, out of a job after Rochas closed, is also fell more sharply than econ- Board index had been showing in the coming months inched zeroing in on a deal to become the creative director of Nina Ricci. omists expected, declining to much more strength than other downward to 14 percent from 1 99.6 from 107 in July. Economists measures of sentiment. The 14.3 percent last month. Those The Conference Board’s August Consumer Confi dence Index fell more had the index pegged at 102.5 for August decline corroborates the who expected fewer jobs rose to 2 sharply than economists expected, declining to 99.6 from 107 in July. August. weakness in other indexes and 18.3 percent from 16.5 percent. In On her fi rst trip to Beijing as USTR, Susan Schwab urged China to take a “Consumer confi dence lost sig- suggests that a slowing in the addition, the Conference Board larger role in the WTO and live up to its global trade obligations. nifi cant ground in August and is labor market, which affects the said consumers anticipating 2 now at its lowest level this year,” Conference Board index more their incomes to increase in the Italian manufacturer IT Holding continued its swing back into the black, said Lynn Franco, director of The than other sentiment measures, is months ahead fell to 17.7 percent 3 posting a net profi t and double-digit sales growth in the fi rst half. Conference Board Consumer having an impact on consumers.” from 18.3 percent. MAINSTREAM: Liz Claiborne unsuccessfully steered Ellen Tracy and Research Center, in a statement. According to the Conference Harris said the expectations Dana Buchman into uncharted waters, but now they’re back on course. Franco said less favorable Board, consumers’ overall as- component of the index corre- 6 business conditions coupled with sessment of current conditions lates more closely with the rate Nordstrom Inc. will open a 144,000-square-foot store in the $1.2 billion a not-so-great job outlook con- was not favorable in August. of growth in consumer spending 8 CityNorth development in Phoenix to serve as one of its anchors. tributed to the largest one-month Those who said jobs were “plen- than do the present situation or The Gemological Institute of America celebrated its 75th anniversary decline in confi dence since the tiful” fell to 24.4 percent from the overall index. He wrote in impact of Hurricane Katrina last 28.6 percent last month, while his note that the “August read- 9 Sunday night in Carlsbad, Calif., and chiseled out some big plans. year. consumers claiming jobs are ing looks consistent with a trend WEST: The ASR Trade Expo takes place next week in San Diego with a The index is now below 100 “hard to get” rose to 21.1 percent in real consumption growth of 10 focus on the growing ties between surf and junior apparel. for the fi rst time since November, from 19.6 percent in July. around 2.5 percent at an an- when it fell to 98.3. Both compo- The outlook for the next six nual rate,” and that the reading Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................11-15 nents of the index contributed months, a measure of consum- signals a slowing in the trend. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. to August’s decline. The Present ers’ future expectations, also Until recently, the trend in real [email protected], using the individual’s name. Situation Index dropped to turned negative in August. Con- consumer spending growth was 123.4 from 134.2 last month. The sumers who said they anticipat- around 3.5 to 4 percent at an an- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Expectations Index declined to ed business conditions to worsen nual rate, he said. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 43. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; USTR Wants China to Cooperate on Trade David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance By Evan Clark fort to reduce tariffs levied on agricultural and Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. industrial goods, such as textiles and apparel, Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. ON HER FIRST TRIP TO BEIJING AS U.S. as well as services, while also reducing the sub- 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS Trade Representative, Susan Schwab tried to sidies countries use to prop up key industries, CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, nudge China toward a larger role in the World which can distort global prices and trade and ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Trade Organization and hinder industrial develop- DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four aired concerns the country Susan Schwab in ment in poor countries. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other has not lived up to the obli- Beijing on Tuesday. “Now is the time for China U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. gations to which it commit- to play a greater role,” said First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, ted when it joined the global Schwab. “China needs to reas- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions trading body in 2001. sure other countries that they and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com.
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    IN 1984 the Minnesota Historical Society acquired the Mun­ singwear, Inc., corporate records and product samples. These business records, photographs, promotional materials, and garments ojjer an especially broad and detailed docu­ mentation oj the company's history jrom its inception in 1886 through the modern miracle-jiber era oj the 1970s. While there are some gaps in several categories or time peri­ ods, the coUection as a whole is a treasure trove oj injorma­ g^gMMBa8"ffl—8SM tion about the company, its competitors worldwide, and the undergarment industry in general. It provides a rare oppor­ tunity to compare historical documents with material cul­ ture over a signijicant period oj time. For more injormation on the collection, see inside the back cover. \rwi^f THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION affected nearly every aspect of daily life in the 19th century. Weapons, furniture, chromolithographs, appliances, and'clothing, to name a few items, were standardized, and streamlined production made more—and new—products widely available. Although standardization and mass production limited creativity and uniqueness, their result was predictable: stable designs and reliable products that could evolve or be adapted to meet the An needs of the mass market. The Industrial Revolution fostered the idea that the useful and the aesthetic were not necessarily antithetical and that the perfection of simplicity, predictabil­ ity, and control were values to rival elite tastes for the beauti­ Underwear ful and rare. The machine-made knit-goods industry began in America in 1832, when Egbert Egberts developed equipment for knit­ ting socks in Cohoes, New York. His simple production For method contributed to the eventual replacement of woven goods (largely flannel) with knit goods in underwear.
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