Travel Plan NEW YORK — All the World’S a Stage This Spring, with Looks That Blend a Touch of the Exotic with Natural, Simple and Pretty Elements
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MILAN SCHEDULE GETS LONGER/2 MARC JACOBS HITS VEGAS/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • November 29, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Travel Plan NEW YORK — All the world’s a stage this spring, with looks that blend a touch of the exotic with natural, simple and pretty elements. Here, Liz McClean’s cotton gauze tunic. Jose Maria Barrera earrings; Flood’s Closet cuffs. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Scanning the Terrain: Europe’s Luxury Stores Anchor Holiday Hopes By Robert Murphy PARIS — Will shoppers spread enough holiday cheer to reverse the fortunes of Europe’s embattled retailers? After several seasons of difficult going compounded by weak consumer spending and endemic unemployment, a spate of positive economic data from across the Continent seems to point to a boost in spending and consumer confidence. Meanwhile, European luxury houses also have signaled better sales on their home turf, reporting gains in Europe over the last six months. And an overwhelming majority of See Europe’s, Page12 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: SIMONE KERR/IMG; HAIR BY KRISTA SERAFINO; MAKEUP BY SONJA; STYLED BY MAKEUP BY SERAFINO; KRISTA CENTENO; MODEL: SIMONE KERR/IMG; HAIR BY BOBBI TALAYA PHOTO BY QUEEN 2 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM Milan Back to Longer Show Schedule By Luisa Zargani della Moda, is completed in 2009. WWDTUESDAY Many of Milan’s fashion ex- Ready-to-Wear/Textiles MILAN — Milan Fashion Week is hibitions, such as Mipel, al- going back to a longer schedule. ready have moved to the Rho- FASHION The Camera della Moda has Pero fairgrounds outside the Designers are evoking a worldly mood for spring — one that’s created by confirmed the schedule will re- city, and will remain there. 6 an effortless mix of colors, shapes and details. turn to seven days from last In a phone interview, Boselli September’s five days. The said he was pleased with the shorter schedule drew waves of agreement, having pushed for it GENERAL protests from buyers and edi- for the past two years. “The After several seasons of weak consumer spending and high unemployment tors, who complained about Congress Center is more in line 1 in Europe, a spate of positive economic data bodes well for holiday. how grueling it was and how with our needs, and the fixtures Milan Fashion Week is going back to a longer schedule, returning to seven late the shows ran as a result. are more elegant,” said Boselli, days from September’s five, after the shorter schedule drew protests. Milan Fashion Week has now pointing to the solid wood floors 2 been scheduled through 2008. in the foyer, the crystal glass Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, Kohl’s and A&F could be among the winners this Next year, it will run from Feb. windows and stainless steel in- 3 holiday season, according to several analysts’ reports. 18 to 26 and from Sept. 23 to Oct. stallations. EYE: Ballet fans got a healthy incentive to keep their black tie-ready bodies 1. In 2007, the shows will run The Congress Center houses 4 in shape last Tuesday at the New York City Ballet’s Opening Night Gala. from Feb. 17 to 25 and from Sept. three spaces seating 1,200 and 22 to 30. In 2008, from Feb. 16 to two spaces seating between 400 RTW: Central London retailers have created the New West End Co. to 24 and from Sept. 20 to 28. and 600 guests. The Camera is 8 attract shoppers to the area in reaction to rent hikes and drops in tourism. Mario Boselli, head of the planning on building a sixth Camera della Moda, who has re- venue destined for runway shows. Classified Advertisements........................................................................15 peatedly voiced his displeasure “The pavilions are new and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is with last fall’s schedule, was es- larger and are well-serviced,” [email protected], using the individual’s name. pecially happy designers are said Missoni, whose company WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 agreeing to return to a seven- was a regular at the fairgrounds. FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. day fashion week. “While we “This is an important turning VOLUME 190, NO. 114. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional are not going back to an 11-day point for us and we are sending issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice There is goodwill among designers. There really was so President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice “ Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. much unhappiness about the calendar. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: ” — Vittorio Missoni DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; schedule, we are aiming at a more balanced, a message of continuity,” added Boselli. or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as stronger seven-day week, which is the minimum Boselli downplayed any conflict with the printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one required for our needs,” he said. Winter Olympics, which will be held Feb. 10 to year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, “There is goodwill among designers,” said 26 in Turin. “I don’t see any relation; it’s all business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: Vittorio Missoni. “There really was so much un- about different industries, different cities and www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, happiness about the calendar.” different venues,” he said. we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Clarice Pecori Giraldi, head of worldwide Boselli also said the Camera is sponsoring a interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. communications at Salvatore Ferragamo, con- new event called Milano Moda Showroom, to be WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED curred: “It is pivotal to regulate the schedule so held in the last week of January. The association MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART that we can all work better.” will coordinate, support and highlight the pre- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED For the runway shows, the Italian Chamber of sentations of the pre-collections out of the de- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Fashion has secured a venue at the recently reno- signers’ showrooms in Milan. “This is a fantastic ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. vated Congress Center here in Via Gattamelata new appointment and it will really help the in- once the current fairgrounds are dismantled this dustry as it answers a specific market request,” spring. This is an interim solution until the future said Boselli, noting the Camera is thinking of fashion area near trendy Corso Como, the Città replicating the event in July. In Brief ● ELLISON JOINS ELLIS: Seth Ellison has been named president of the action sports/active division at Perry Ellis International. Ellison will oversee PEI’s youth lifestyle brands, which are Redsand and the Gotcha surfwear brand, as well its proprietary Calvin Klein Names Better Sportswear VP swim brand, Jantzen, and Nike swim, which is produced under li- cense. This is a new position and represents PEI’s interest in NEW YORK — Chris Jackson has ple and I really saw Chris as a now the line will all work togeth- growing the category.