MILAN SCHEDULE GETS LONGER/2 MARC JACOBS HITS VEGAS/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • November 29, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles

Travel Plan NEW YORK — All the world’s a stage this spring, with looks that blend a touch of the exotic with natural, simple and pretty elements. Here, Liz McClean’s cotton gauze tunic. Jose Maria Barrera earrings; Flood’s Closet cuffs. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Scanning the Terrain: Europe’s Luxury Stores Anchor Holiday Hopes By Robert Murphy PARIS — Will shoppers spread enough holiday cheer to reverse the fortunes of Europe’s embattled retailers? After several seasons of difficult going compounded by weak consumer spending and endemic unemployment, a spate of positive economic data from across the Continent seems to point to a boost in spending and consumer confidence. Meanwhile, European luxury houses also have signaled better sales on their home turf, reporting gains in Europe over the last six months. And an overwhelming majority of See Europe’s, Page12 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: SIMONE KERR/IMG; HAIR BY KRISTA SERAFINO; MAKEUP BY SONJA; STYLED BY MAKEUP BY SERAFINO; KRISTA CENTENO; MODEL: SIMONE KERR/IMG; HAIR BY BOBBI TALAYA PHOTO BY QUEEN 2 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM Milan Back to Longer Show Schedule By Luisa Zargani della Moda, is completed in 2009. WWDTUESDAY Many of Milan’s fashion ex- Ready-to-Wear/Textiles MILAN — Milan Fashion Week is hibitions, such as Mipel, al- going back to a longer schedule. ready have moved to the Rho- FASHION The Camera della Moda has Pero fairgrounds outside the Designers are evoking a worldly mood for spring — one that’s created by confirmed the schedule will re- city, and will remain there. 6 an effortless mix of colors, shapes and details. turn to seven days from last In a phone interview, Boselli September’s five days. The said he was pleased with the shorter schedule drew waves of agreement, having pushed for it GENERAL protests from buyers and edi- for the past two years. “The After several seasons of weak consumer spending and high unemployment tors, who complained about Congress Center is more in line 1 in Europe, a spate of positive economic data bodes well for holiday. how grueling it was and how with our needs, and the fixtures Milan Fashion Week is going back to a longer schedule, returning to seven late the shows ran as a result. are more elegant,” said Boselli, days from September’s five, after the shorter schedule drew protests. Milan Fashion Week has now pointing to the solid wood floors 2 been scheduled through 2008. in the foyer, the crystal glass Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, Kohl’s and A&F could be among the winners this Next year, it will run from Feb. windows and stainless steel in- 3 holiday season, according to several analysts’ reports. 18 to 26 and from Sept. 23 to Oct. stallations. EYE: Ballet fans got a healthy incentive to keep their black tie-ready bodies 1. In 2007, the shows will run The Congress Center houses 4 in shape last Tuesday at the New York City Ballet’s Opening Night Gala. from Feb. 17 to 25 and from Sept. three spaces seating 1,200 and 22 to 30. In 2008, from Feb. 16 to two spaces seating between 400 RTW: Central London retailers have created the New West End Co. to 24 and from Sept. 20 to 28. and 600 guests. The Camera is 8 attract shoppers to the area in reaction to rent hikes and drops in tourism. Mario Boselli, head of the planning on building a sixth Camera della Moda, who has re- venue destined for runway shows. Classified Advertisements...... 15 peatedly voiced his displeasure “The pavilions are new and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is with last fall’s schedule, was es- larger and are well-serviced,” [email protected], using the individual’s name. pecially happy designers are said Missoni, whose company WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 agreeing to return to a seven- was a regular at the fairgrounds. FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. day fashion week. “While we “This is an important turning VOLUME 190, NO. 114. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional are not going back to an 11-day point for us and we are sending issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice There is goodwill among designers. There really was so President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice “ Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. much unhappiness about the calendar. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: ” — Vittorio Missoni DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; schedule, we are aiming at a more balanced, a message of continuity,” added Boselli. or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as stronger seven-day week, which is the minimum Boselli downplayed any conflict with the printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one required for our needs,” he said. Winter Olympics, which will be held Feb. 10 to year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, “There is goodwill among designers,” said 26 in Turin. “I don’t see any relation; it’s all business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: Vittorio Missoni. “There really was so much un- about different industries, different cities and www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, happiness about the calendar.” different venues,” he said. we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Clarice Pecori Giraldi, head of worldwide Boselli also said the Camera is sponsoring a interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. communications at Salvatore Ferragamo, con- new event called Milano Moda Showroom, to be WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED curred: “It is pivotal to regulate the schedule so held in the last week of January. The association MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART that we can all work better.” will coordinate, support and highlight the pre- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED For the runway shows, the Italian Chamber of sentations of the pre-collections out of the de- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Fashion has secured a venue at the recently reno- signers’ showrooms in Milan. “This is a fantastic ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. vated Congress Center here in Via Gattamelata new appointment and it will really help the in- once the current fairgrounds are dismantled this dustry as it answers a specific market request,” spring. This is an interim solution until the future said Boselli, noting the Camera is thinking of fashion area near trendy Corso Como, the Città replicating the event in July. In Brief

● ELLISON JOINS ELLIS: Seth Ellison has been named president of the action sports/active division at Perry Ellis International. Ellison will oversee PEI’s youth lifestyle brands, which are Redsand and the Gotcha surfwear brand, as well its proprietary Calvin Klein Names Better Sportswear VP swim brand, Jantzen, and Nike swim, which is produced under li- cense. This is a new position and represents PEI’s interest in NEW YORK — Chris Jackson has ple and I really saw Chris as a now the line will all work togeth- growing the category. Ellison was most recently president at Nike’s been named vice president of great fit for Calvin Klein Women’s er with colors coordinating,” he Hurley International division. PEI last week said it had acquired design for Calvin Klein Women’s Better Sportswear,” Ruzow said. explained. “It’s really going to the trademark rights to Gotcha and GirlStar brands from Gotcha Better Sportswear, a division of “I like that he comes from bridge be displayed in the way women International and will take over the development of apparel for Kellwood Co. and that he really does under- dress. They don’t have a casual these labels starting with the spring 2007 season. In addition to its Jackson most recently served stand what we want to do with closet and a career closet. They core Perry Ellis label, the company also owns the Munsingwear, as design director of DKNY the collection.” have one closet, and that’s how Original Penguin, Cubavera and Grand Slam brands. women’s collection for nine Ruzow said that come fall we see the new collection.” years. Earlier, he held major de- 2006, when the line relaunches, In September, Kellwood ● BELK BOTTOMS OUT: Acquisition and storm-related costs sign posts at Nautica, French Calvin Klein Women’s Better agreed to purchase G.A.V.’s inter- weighed down Belk Inc. in the third quarter as the retailer post- Connection and Anne Klein. Sportswear will no longer be ests in the Calvin Klein Women’s ed a net loss of $4.5 million for the three months ended Oct. 29, Based here, Jackson reports broken into career and casual Better Sportswear business and which compared with a profit of $10.8 million in the same period to Stephen Ruzow, president of separates, but placed together named Ruzow president of that a year ago. The department store company cited an increase in the Calvin Klein Women’s Better as a full lifestyle collection. division. Before that deal, G.A.V. interest expense from its July acquisition of 47 Profitt’s and Sportswear division and execu- “We always had a lifestyle managed it as a joint business McRae’s stores from Saks Inc., lower gross margins and expens- tive vice president at Kellwood. collection, but it was broken into venture with Kellwood. es from Hurricane Katrina. Excluding hurricane-related losses, “We interviewed a lot of peo- those career and casual areas, The Calvin Klein deal with Belk said its net loss would have been $3.9 million. Total rev- Kellwood and G.A.V. was signed enues, however, jumped 29.8 percent to $701.3 million, from in June 2003 and the first collec- $540.2 million last year. Belk cited its acquisition of Profitt’s and tion was shipped to department McRae’s as well as the opening of 12 new stores for the revenue stores in February 2004. While increase. Same-store sales were down 1.9 percent in the quarter. G.A.V. handled areas such as In the nine months, Belk had net earnings of $37 million, a de- product, quality, fit, marketing crease of 27.2 percent from a profit of $50.8 million last year, and positioning, Kellwood was while revenues totaled $1.9 billion, up 15.1 percent. in charge of back-office opera- THE TIGER COMPANIES tions and funded the business. ● THREE’S A CROWN: Another Antwerp, Belgium-based design- In the new setup, the collec- Tiger Button Co Inc - New York er has taken the 100,000 euro ($118,000) Swiss Textile Award. Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong tion is produced by Kellwood Christian Wijnants was crowned with the prize in a competition Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. under a license agreement with over the weekend in Lucerne, Switzerland, beating out design- Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly ers Charles Anastase, Giles Deacon, David Szeto and Tiger Trimming Inc - New York owned subsidiary of the Phillips- Undercover. Wijnants, 28, is the third Antwerp designer in a row Van Heusen Corp. to take the prize, after Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann. Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] — Julee Greenberg WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 3 WWD.COM

Marc Jacobs in Vegas: HOLIDAY SHOPPING TRENDS Off to a Strong Start % RETAIL SALES GROWTH 2004 vs. 2005 16 By Rose Apodaca 14 LOS ANGELES — Whether the item was a $795 gold-quilted Cammi handbag or $850 ostrich flats, price was no object for customers at 12 the new Marc Jacobs door in Las Vegas on Thanksgiving weekend. “They just buy what they like, like that,” Marc Jacobs president 10 Robert Duffy said of costumers at the company’s 1,100-square-foot col- lections store in The Forum Shops at Caesars, which opened Friday. 8 “The traffic that goes by here is unlike anything I’ve ever seen.” 6 Duffy said the newest location — next to Harry Winston, a space formerly occupied by Luca Luca — surpassed sales numbers at Marc 4 Jacobs stores in Boston, Bal Harbour and San Francisco. He declined to provide specifics. 2 However, Duffy’s expectations ran higher than for other doors. “I know the Forum Shops volume is huge,” he said. 0 TOTAL HOME ELECTRONICS DISCOUNT APPAREL DEPT STORE e-COM/DTC The Forum Shops average sales of $1,433 a square foot, the high- IMPROVEMENT est in the U.S. Almost 36 million tourists visit Las Vegas annually. Even with those numbers, Duffy, who projected this store could 2004 2005 do $4 million in sales annually or better, admitted that Sin City was- SOURCE: US CENSUS BUREAU/MONTHLY RETAIL TRADE SURVEY; COMPANY FINANCIAL DATA; CUSTOMER GROWTH PARTNERS PROPRIETARY RETAIL SURVEY AND DATABASE n’t high on his list for a Marc Jacobs address. AS OF 11/26/05. NOTE: HOLIDAY 2005 DATA REFLECT NOV. 1-26 ONLY, AND MUST THEREFORE BE VIEWED AS PRELIMINARY ESTIMATES. “We resisted coming to Las Vegas,’’ he said. “I don’t like malls. I don’t get them. But here we have our own windows on the outside looking out on the Strip, so I didn’t feel like I was in the mall.” Leading up to the opening, Duffy observed Vegas is “definitely a Analysts Report Black Friday Winners different clientele.” That was obvious in a retail center that closes at 11 p.m. “It’s the By David Moin drew traffic late in the day, while others saw busi- weirdest thing to see people walking around with their to-go cock- ness taper off; mall anchors saw respectable traffic tails, just walking into Chanel,” Duffy said. NEW YORK — Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, Kohl’s and trends, with Macy’s the most active and Nordstrom But location dictates merchandise offerings, and Duffy and his Abercrombie & Fitch could be among the win- the most reserved, and Federated’s holiday story team immediately realized where to make adjustments. ners this holiday season, according to several has less to do with holiday comps and everything to Much of the product analysts’ reports filed since Black Friday. do with tremendous margin expansion and cash Marc Jacobs skewed for the Los Wal-Mart was the most aggressive promoter, flow generation in fiscal ’06 and beyond.” at The Forum Angeles client base — Abercrombie & Fitch saw the most robust busi- Margaret Mayer, another analyst with Goldman, Shops at ”more gowns, more ness at full-price and electronics was the stand- reported a 35 percent rise in retailers increasing Caesars. high heels and more out category, according to a Goldman Sachs & Co. promotions and markdowns, based on a check of body-conscious looks — recap of the winners and losers of Black Friday 40 apparel retailers. could translate here.” weekend, which was among the most promotion- “Electronics was the hottest product category, Lighter-weight cloth- al and carefully staged in years. with standouts being the Xbox 360, iPods, ing, particularly resort, Goldman said Abercrombie & Fitch and PlayStation Portables and low-price LCD TVs and is also more at home in Hollister saw the most robust business at full- digital cameras. Diamond jewelry, handbags and Vegas. price over the weekend, but added that Gap Inc. gift cards were other standout categories, while Nor will the store brands suffered from “anemic traffic trends apparel was less exciting this year,” she wrote. contain women’s prod- despite stepped-up promos.” More definitive results on Black Friday will be uct only, as originally Deborah Weinswig, Citigroup’s broadlines available from retailers that report November planned. retailing analyst, characterized Black Friday same-store sales on Thursday. During training sessions with the staff four days before opening, 2005 as “less about bling and more about bang for Merrill Lynch analyst Danielle Fox estimated Duffy allowed a couple entrance, and the husband convinced Duffy the buck.” In her report, she said, “Our extensive November same-store sales will increase by 0.2 to stock at least some men’s product. What arrived in time for the across-the-country Black Friday store checks percent versus a 0.5 percent decrease last year. opening flew out: men’s shoes, thermal cashmere sweaters and other indicate that compelling prices and hard-hitting On the hard goods, Fox said: “Laptops and items accounted for 50 percent of weekend sales. marketing of key items drove customers to the desktop computers for less than $400, and in “That was the big surprise,” said Duffy, adding they are rethink- stores, resulting in a solid start to the 2005 holi- some cases less than $200, were the most popular ing the approach to men’s in an already limited space. Opening day shopping season.” and sold out fastest. This year, Wal-Mart led the another door dedicated to men’s wouldn’t be out of the question. She listed the hottest categories as consumer way with deals on PCs, digital cameras and TVs.” The same goes, Duffy noted, for a Marc by Marc Jacobs store in electronics, toys, kitchen electrics and cold-weath- Merrill analyst Mark A. Friedman said retail the gambling — and shopping — mecca. er apparel, which was “aggressively priced and stocks historically are “sloppy” in December. “We The opening is just the latest brand expansion in the West. promoted.” Gift cards were also big, she noted. maintain our defensive stance on the group and This month in Los Angeles, the company added a third door to its She explained that J. C. Penney, Kohl’s and look for shares to struggle in December as holi- Melrose Place campus, this one housing the men’s collection. It’s the Wal-Mart should do well this holiday due to a day concerns take center stage.” first freestanding men’s store in the company’s retail stable. combination of aggressive marketing and pro- Consumer electronics stores appeared busiest, Across from the main store, the 1,000-square-foot men’s shop occu- moting and trend-right merchandise. followed by home improvement retailers, office pies a space that originally served as a salon for studio services and While retailing nationwide was marked by products retailers, home furnishings stores and VIP clients. fierce promoting, Merrill Lynch said: “There was bookstores, according to Merrill Lynch. “It got to be where we couldn’t show the whole men’s collection nothing that appeared to be last minute. Bargain hunters loved the early bird specials the way it should be shown and it suffered,” said Duffy. “But the Aéropostale’s 50 percent off the entire store last Friday, according to a survey of weekend men’s business doubled since we opened. The whole collection is out seemed to be the most effective.” Merrill cited shoppers conducted by America’s Research — underwear, accessories, shoes. They had been there before [in the cooler-weather outerwear, cold-weather acces- Group. “What makes 2005 different is that 73 per- main shop] but you couldn’t see them as well.” sories, electronic accessories (such as iPod hold- cent of Friday’s shoppers were finished by noon — In March, the designer will have a second San Francisco address ers) and accessories as bestsellers. the highest number in the last six years,” said C. when a Marc by Marc Jacobs door opens on Fillmore Street, with Some analysts described this season as being Britt Beemer, chief executive and founder of ARG. about 2,000 square feet of selling floor. “The West Coast has been “back loaded” with potential, since Christmas Shoppers hit few stores Friday, Beemer said, with great business for us,” added Duffy. Eve falls on a Saturday, giving consumers most of three in four people going to, at most, four places. the weekend before the holiday to last-minute Four out of five shoppers who bought over the shop. Also, there are 30 days between Thanks- weekend saw the item advertised, the ARG sur- giving and Christmas this year, versus 29 last vey found. ARG projects Christmas sales ahead 3 year. According to Goldman, “With mounting percent over last year. The research firm sur- gasoline pressures having reversed course, home veyed 719 consumers nationwide from Nov. 25-27. heating bills yet to hit and hurricane shock wear- Planalytics, a consulting firm that helps ing off,, customer appetite might be stronger than retailers plan based on forecasting the weather, we had expected.” said weather conditions favoring weather-relat- According to Adrianne Shapira, retail analyst ed apparel purchases over Black Friday week- with Goldman canvassing the Northeast and end were the strongest since 2002. Temperatures Florida, “Wal-Mart was the traffic winner: They were 15 to 20 degrees below normal and condi- pulled out all the stops in terms of marketing and tions were mostly dry in the Northeast and promotions to deliver a middle-of-the-range 4.3 Midwest. Paul Walsh, vice president of business percent comp.” The impact on margins remains meteorology at Planalytics, said in a statement, to be seen, she added. “The cold air provided a strong feeling of In her overall review of the two regions, she Christmas this weekend and a definite bias for observed: “Kohl’s extended door-buster hours apparel and other cold-weather items.” Inside the shop. PHOTOS BY DENISE TRUSCELLO/WIRE IMAGE DENISE TRUSCELLO/WIRE PHOTOS BY 4 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM Allison NOW, VOYAGER Sarofim in Sarofim in NEW YORK — In the world of travel writing, Oscar de Oscar de A.A. Gill is an outlaw. When the British la Renta. Dance Fever la Renta. Sunday Times columnist hits the road, he Before digging into their Thanksgiving repasts, well-heeled ballet refuses to take notes, won’t do research and afficionados got a healthy incentive to keep their black-tie-ready hates to stay anywhere longer than a few bodies in shape at the New York City Ballet’s Opening Night Gala days. While his contemporaries espouse last Tuesday. Guests such as Coco Kopelman, Eliza Reed Bolen, cultural relativism and a polite “when in Jamee Gregory, Josie Natori and Rita Schrager broke out their Rome” ethos, he is unapologetically finery to take in a special performance, including a world opinionated, proselytizing his prejudices and premiere of a new Albert Evans-choreographed ballet. passions with equal fervor. “I’m not like Not everyone felt inspired to dance, though. other journalists,” he acknowledges. “It’s “I didn’t dance when I was little. I was a gangly thing. I’m very just me, it’s just what I think.” uncoordinated,” confessed honorary chair Christy Turlington, What Gill thinks, it turns out, makes for there with husband Ed Burns and resplendent at seven and a half an insightful — and very funny — read. In months pregnant in a sparkle-trimmed Marc Jacobs gown. “A.A. Gill Is Away” (Simon & Schuster), the Others weren’t so hesitant and, once the performance was over, journalist has compiled 21 of his travel guests joined event chairmen Allison Sarofim and Charlotte Moss pieces written over the past decade. The on the bamboo-bedecked promenade for dinner and dancing. “It’s essays, geographically sub-grouped into East, like Christmastime — you don’t know what South, North and West, range from the you’re going to get,” said Debbie Bancroft of hilarious (a stint in Los Angeles directing a her seating assignment at dinner. porn flick called “Hot House Tails”) to the Nina Griscom and Leonel Piraino broke heart-wrenching (the desolation and poverty into an impromptu slow dance, but Fé Fendi caused by the shrinking of the Aral Sea). seemed more inclined to get down. Fé Fendi Throughout, Gill stays true to his objective “Let’s dance before you get too tired,” dancing to “interview a place as if it’s a person.” she called out to her tablemates, grabbing with Peter “When you go to places, you sort of Peter Bacanovic’s hand. Bacanovic. instinctively like them or not, in much the same That same evening across the pond, way that you do when you sit down and have eye® Mario Testino was all smiles at the opening of his exhibit, “Diana, Princess of tea with someone,” he explains. “It’s not Wales,” at Kensington Palace in London. “I’m a sucker for smiles, and I’m all necessarily because they’re particularly about up,” said Testino. “I think when you see the exhibition, you feel happy.” beautiful or welcoming or clever or smell nice, Lady Helen Taylor, Christopher Bailey, Manolo Blahnik and Jacquetta Wheeler it’s just sort of a general feeling. And it was that turned up to view the 15 black-and-white photographs that show the late princess sense that I wanted to capture in each place.” in her ballgowns and evening dresses. In Paris, meanwhile, the elite gathered at the Petit Palais. “This is the first A.A. Gill time I’ve won an award,” swore Eric de Rothschild as he scooped up the Scorpus Award Nov. 21. A dinner in support of the Jerusalem Hebrew University raised Carla Bruni more than $525,000 and brought 400 guests to the recently renovated palais, including Lily Safra, Pierre Bergé, David de Rothschild, Thaddaeus Ropac, Anouk Aimée and Marisa Berenson. Carla Bruni, who made her entrance in an Yves Saint Laurent strapless gown, drove the paparazzi wild. “Stop now,” she scolded photographers as their flashbulbs blared. “I’m here for another four hours.”

Gill’s formula to stick to first impressions and “the surface of things” yields consistently penetrating and astute geographic portraits. He has an uncanny ability to tease out details from the cultural fabric that speak volumes about a place as a whole. To sum up the absurdity of Milan Fashion Week, he zeroes in on a girl in a Anh Duong in wheelchair with Chanel earrings and a Eric de Rothschild Mario Yves Saint quilted bag dangling from the armrest. In the and Marisa Berenson Testino Laurent. ex-Soviet town of Kaliningrad, women sporting miniskirts and garish “flesh- CENTENO TALAYA OUTTE BY colored” dye jobs are emblems of the city’s Coauthored by her older sister, Melissa Houtte, a San Francisco-based desperate and misguided foray into journalist, the book speaks to those who derive more satisfaction from capitalism. That Touch of Mink stumbling upon a vintage Pucci clutch at the Salvation Army than a deeply Occasionally, Gill’s total disregard for the NEW YORK — Vintage shopping in New York can be a discouraging discounted Zac Posen cocktail dress at Barneys New York. The witty politically correct has landed the acid-tongued affair. After all, the prices at consignment stores on the Upper East Side memoir follows Houtte’s trajectory from her girlhood in Miami — in which scribe in hot water. In 1999, a barrage of rival those found at Bergdorf Goodman, while downtown, Seventies she pulled weeds in order to purchase her friend’s garage-sale castoffs — outraged readers — not to mention Britain’s Levis are selling at $300 a pop. to her current incarnation of a slap-happy boutique Racial Equality and Press Complaints But for those who consider stalking estate sales owner haunting estate sales in Pennsylvania. Commission — denounced his essay about and scrounging in the Goodwill thrift stores an art Characters such as Mary Coleman — Houtte’s German culture titled “Hunforgiven.” form — not to mention a veritable sport — right-hand woman who is responsible for the clever “One journalist, who took umbrage with Brooklyn’s Hooti Couture shop is a gold mine. lines such as “Tearfully, Julie Nixon comes to the piece, wrote how sad he was that someone Owner Alison Houtte, who named the boutique realize that Daddy will resign” that grace every who had written such unsubstantial prejudice after her grandmother Clemmie’s inventive way of price tag in the store — populate her narrative. As had only spent nine days in Germany,” recalls pronouncing her last name, spent her formative an appendix, Houtte offers a “Vintage Shopper’s Gill, “Yet if you only go for nine days, what you years as a jet-setting fashion model, gracing the Guide,” educating like-minded folk about the find weird is that they put a cafe in a pages of French Marie Claire before Vogue flew her merits of church rummage sales and the tricky concentration camp.” to New York for a shoot. “I wore my best two-dollar realm of price negotiation. If Gill has his distastes, however, he also suit,” says the lifelong bargain shopper, “but I Luckily, Houtte’s storied history and gregarious has his devotions, and Africa, with its rich paired it with my Robert Clergerie shoes.” personality are excellent fodder for such a memoir. tribal heritages and magnificent landscape, Houtte’s modeling career was longer, and more “I try to please everyone,” she says, handing a ranks first among them. “I feel more moved prosperous, than most and she continues to do the customer a Forties swing coat, complete with mink there than most other places,” he says. “A occasional advertising campaign since she moved collar, that echoes the latest designs from Marni. life without seeing Africa would be awful. It to Park Slope in 1994 to open her store. Among the thousands of pieces that have would be like a life in black and white.” “Brooklyn is definitely my rehab,” she explains. passed through her hands, Houtte manages to Indeed, his essays about the continent, Now 45, her decades-defying 6-foot-tall frame animate a few of her most precious finds, including one focusing on the devastation of lords over a crimson storefront on Flatbush including a Gucci handbag purchased 28 years famine in Sudan, are some of the most Avenue, selling immaculate furs, ornate gowns and Alison Houtte ago that she still carries today. The sculpted brilliantly descriptive and moving pieces in even stained-glass scarf ties at bargain prices to a inin herher store.store. leather tote, which houses a red suede jewelry tray the book, a fact to which the writer readily dedicated corps of customers ranging in age from that zips out of a hidden pouch (perfect for concedes. “There are some essays,” he 10 to 94. Last week marked the release of her first literary effort, putting in the hotel safe), is unfortunately not for sale. “But she might says, “which I hope are plainly more serious “Alligators, Old Mink, and New Money: One Woman’s Adventures in be in 15 years,” Houtte adds. “Could you check back?” than others.” Vintage Clothing.” — Ashley Baker — Evelyn Crowley NYCB PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; SCORPUS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; TESTINO BY RICHARD LEA-HAIR/NEWSTEAM.CO.UK/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; H PALACES; ROYAL RICHARD LEA-HAIR/NEWSTEAM.CO.UK/HISTORIC DOMINIQUE MAITRE; TESTINO BY STEVE EICHNER; SCORPUS BY PHOTOS BY NYCB Where you make your goods...

can make or break your season

n CHINAnn MEXICO INDIA CANADAn SRI LANKA nn INDONESIA Need help managing the changes?

WWD SOURCING LEADERSHIP FORUM March 8, 2006 The Condé Nast Theatre, 4 Times Square Join 100 senior apparel executives responsible for strategic sourcing, logistics and operations at a one-day conference hosted by the editors of Women’s Wear Daily.

Topics will include:

•China now – China three years from now • CAFTA out of the gate •Market opportunities: Which country is right for your products •Contingency planning •Speed vs. Security

For more information, call 212.630.4787 *The WWD Leadership Forum is a new series of executive meetings focusing on key industry issues. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 As the World Turns NEW YORK — Designers are evoking a worldly mood for spring — one that’s created by an effortless mix of colors, shapes and details. The result is clothes that are simple, romantic and relaxed.

Lilith’s cotton jacket and Sportmax’s cotton and nylon tulle skirt. Giuseppe Zanotti shoes; Carol Horn bracelet. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Nicole Farhi’s silk chiffon top and cotton skirt.

Yeohlee’s cotton and rayon lace cardigan and Lauren Moffatt’s cotton skirt. NT: TIFFANY N. YARAGHI; JEWELRY ON PAGE 7 FROM FLOOD’S CLOSET; SHOES BY GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI; STYLED BY SHOES BY CLOSET; 7 FROM FLOOD’S JEWELRY ON PAGE N. YARAGHI; TIFFANY NT:

Margaret Loves Peter’s cotton shirt and Elissa Charlotte’s cotton Coleman’s silk skirt. dress. 45 rpm scarf. Flood’s Closet belt. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODELS: SIMONE KERR/IMG AND HELEN/SUPREME; HAIR BY KRISTEN SERAFINO; MAKEUP BY SONJA; FASHION ASSISTA SONJA; FASHION MAKEUP BY KRISTEN SERAFINO; CENTENO; MODELS: SIMONE KERR/IMG AND HELEN/SUPREME; HAIR BY TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report London Stores Marching On By Nina Jones

LONDON — Central London retailers have had a trying year. First, there were the ter- rorist attacks on the city’s transport system in July. And a hefty traffic congestion charge, escalating commercial rents and a continuing decline in tourism are expected to extend through the holiday season and consequently dent sales and profits. But retailers are banding together to shore up business — before it’s too late. Stores on Oxford, Bond and Regent Streets have created The New West End Co. and have set up a fund to attract more shoppers to the area. Over the next three years, the group expects to raise about $32 million through Crown Estates, which owns property on Regent Street; the Greater London Authority, which is headed by London Mayor Ken Livingstone, and retailers’ independent efforts. The money will be used to renovate rundown buildings like the ones on Regent Street with historic facades and redevelop the east end of Oxford Street. New West End Co. has also organized one-off initiatives, such as the Celebrate Oxford Street fes- tival, held for the first time in October. For one Saturday, the street was closed to traf- fic, pop bands performed and rival executives Stuart Rose, chief executive officer of Marks & Spencer, and Philip Green, owner of the Arcadia Co., Topshop’s parent com- pany, stood side by side in a show of commitment to the area. While the street festival may not have dramatically increased foot traffic, Jace Tyrrell, marketing manager for the New West End Co., was upbeat about the company’s long-term objectives. Foot traffic used to be heavier on the East End of Oxford Street. “We are creating a unique selling point for the West End, a reason for consumers to visit the area,” she said. “With the July 7 bombings, the West End was hit a bit harder than the rest of the U.K. But the fact that half a million people turned up to the that tracks shopper numbers and trends in the U.K. “One of the factors that’s impor- Celebrate Oxford Street event shows how resilient London is. We have dealt with ter- tant is that the West End has lost its uniqueness. We have flagships such as Selfridges rorism for years with the IRA [Irish Republican Army] threat.” now in other parts of the U.K., in Manchester and Birmingham, so the area isn’t such But this new round of attacks — and other factors — have clearly taken their toll. a powerful magnet for U.K. shoppers.” The congestion charge, a mandatory fee set up in 2003 in a bid to ease central London Denison added that during the holiday selling season, those who fear further traffic during weekday hours, has been increased to $14 for every car that enters the attacks perceive the risk to be greater. “There is an underlying edge in the West End West End (and that’s before one parks). in the run up to Christmas,” said Denison. Foot traffic in central London immediately dropped by 17 percent the week after Rising rents have already driven away West End stalwarts Laura Ashley and the July bombings and was still down 10.7 percent last month in a year-to-year com- Dickins & Jones, an old-fashioned type of department store. Both companies said last parison. This month, however, figures have shown a slight increase of 0.7 percent for summer that they had been forced to close their stores on Regent Street due to pro- the middle week of November compared with the same period last year. hibitive rents. Faced with its first rent review in 42 years, Dickins & Jones’ annual rent In addition, U.S. tourists continue to stay away because of the weak dollar and jumped from about $444,500 to approximately $8 million. The space that Dickins & threat of more attacks. As the crucial holiday season approaches, a survey by Jones will leave in January is to be developed into a mix of retail, residential and Westminster Council, conducted in September, has shown that 25 percent of office space. Laura Ashley’s space has been leased to Mamas and Papas, a store that Londoners remain nervous about traveling to the West End for leisure activities, and carries maternity wear, children’s clothing, baby strollers and nursery furniture. most of those wary Londoners are women under 35 — retailers’ key shoppers. George Wallace, chief executive officer of Management Horizons Europe, a London- “Shopper numbers in the West End had been declining over a period of time,” said based retail consultancy, said there is a future for the area. “It would be wrong to say Tim Denison, director of knowledge management at retail analyst SPSL, a company the West End is dead or dying,” said Wallace, adding that, given the subdued retail cli- mate in the U.K. in general, foot traffic in the West End is relatively robust. The scene on “The West End is a challenging location, but there is still a huge volume of domes- Regent Street. tic and visitor traffic to the area,” he said. “The increase in Chinese and Russian tourists will compensate for the decline in U.S. visitors.” Wallace said the reason some U.K. retailers, such as Dickins & Jones, have been feeling the pinch is the increased competition from the big branded chains. “Five or six years ago we didn’t have the likes of Zara and Mango,” said Wallace, refer- ring to the two Spanish mass retailers that have flagships on Regent Street. “It’s very expensive to operate in the most prime locations now, and smaller retailers have to have a strong trading formula and be high productivity generators to survive in the area.” Wallace cited Selfridges, Liberty and Debenhams as stores that have revitalized their formats to keep up with the competition. Thanks to Vittorio Radice (former ceo of Selfridges, now ceo of the Italian department store chain La Rinascente), Selfridges has become an ultramodern shopping experience and destination for tourists, he said. While Liberty has distinguished itself by trumpeting its heritage and stocking niche designer brands, Debenhams has focused on offering affordable products and creating prestige by lining up such designers as Matthew Williamson and FrostFrench for its private label lines. Annie Walker, ceo of the Regent Street Association, an organization for local retail- ers, is also positive about the changes ahead. “It’s an exciting time for the West End,” she said. “Brands now want to have more space and greater control, which a flagship space can give them. We now have flagships for Ted Baker and Coast, as well as the European flagship for Apple on Regent Street.”

Theory recruited artist Ryan Lemke to and others for the Dec. 6 festivities. assemble tear sheets from the book, which MARKET BASKET features photos of women that Avedon took LORO PIANA’S SUNSHINE STATE: Loro Piana has GOING FOR THE GOLD: Carolina Herrera traveled from 1945 through 2004, on the walls of opened its 10th store in the U.S. at 245 Worth to Las Palmas de Gran Canarias, Spain, last Pastis for next week’s party. Avenue in Palm Beach, Fla. week to take home the gold medal for merit in This Richard Avedon image, A Theory spokeswoman Encompassing 1,000 the fine arts. which was used for the invite, emphasized this will not be square feet, the one-level King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia will also temporarily adorn a standard exhibition of the store features women’s, men’s presented the designer with the award on Theory’s new office. photographer’s work. and accessories collections, behalf of the Spanish Council of Ministers. To promote the event, as well as gift items. Since Herrera was among 19 celebrities honored for Theory will dress up its opening in mid-November, their contributions to culture, entertainment under-construction corporate bestsellers have included a and design. Writer José Luis Sampedro, offices at 38 Gansevoort Loro Piana’s newest cashmere T-shirt at $595; the musician Odón Alonso and the actress Victoria Street in lower Manhattan store in Palm Beach. iconic “Horsey” jacket for Abril were among the honorees. with a 50-foot-high replica of women and men, ranging the cover of “Woman in the Mirror.” Like from $1,300 to $3,000, and vicuña sweaters, IN THEORY: IT’S AVEDON: Theory and the Council Lemke’s interpretation, it will only be up Dec. 6. starting at $2,900, said a company spokesman. of Fashion Designers of America will celebrate Hosts Andrew Rosen, Ricky Sasaki, Stan In keeping with Loro Piana’s 78 stores this month’s publication of the late Richard Herman, Kal Ruttenstein, Stephanie Seymour, worldwide, the interior has natural blond oak Avedon’s “Woman in the Mirror” on Dec. 6 with Bruce Weber and Iman have rounded up Tory wardrobes, sand-colored walls and gray Italian a one-day installation at Pastis in New York. Burch, Peter Som, Zac Posen, Julie Gilhart stone floors. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 9 WWD.COM Te x t i l e & Tr a d e Report Thailand Boosts Sourcing Profile

By Joyce Barrett

BANGKOK — With one eye on free-trade talks with the U.S. and another on the even- tual end of Chinese export restraints, Thailand’s garment manufacturers want to expand exports to the U.S. by targeting small- to mid-sized U.S. apparel brands. The Thai Garment Manufacturers Association and the Ministry of Commerce plan to open a Manhattan office for Thailand’s exporters that would offer one-stop shopping for U.S. apparel companies seeking low-cost suppliers. “Thirty-five apparel brands dominate half of the U.S. market and most are already buy- ing from Thailand,” Tienchai Mahasiri, president of the manufacturers association, said during an interview in his 31st-floor office in downtown Bangkok. “We are going after the other half, the smaller companies. We think there is great potential to increase our U.S. exports up to 50 percent in that segment.” By opening a U.S. office, Mahasiri said the Thai industry could simplify sourcing by offer- ing designs and prices that include all fees: transportation, insurance and import duties. He estimated the Thai government would spend $10 million on the effort and an office may open in 2006. Los Angeles and Miami are also under consideration for Thai export offices.

“We want better U.S. market access,” said Kartchai Jamkajornkeiat, president of VINAI DITHAJOHN PHOTOS BY Apparel Avenue Co., which sews garments for Nautica and Phillips-Van Heusen. Inside the Apparel Avenue Co. factory and Kartchai Jamkajornkeiat, president of Apparel Avenue. “We’re trying to get an edge over our competitors.” The one-stop shopping concept is part of a five-year strategy aimed at positioning Thailand is the 20th-largest U.S. trading partner. Last year, two-way trade on all the industry for an anticipated U.S.-Thailand free-trade agreement, which President products totaled $23.9 billion, according to U.S. government statistics. The textile and Bush and Thailand’s Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra predict could be negotiated apparel industry is the largest manufacturer in Thailand with more than one million next year. The pact would need Congressional approval. employees. It accounts for 20 percent of total manufacturing employment and is the Thai manufacturers also are preparing for 2008, when U.S. restraints on China’s textile country’s second-largest export industry. exports are lifted. Admitting the difficulty of ignoring its giant northern neighbor, Thailand exported more than $3 billion in garments to the U.S. last year. More than Jamkajornkeiat said Thailand is trying to elicit cooperation from China’s textile industry one-third of all Thai textile and garment exports are U.S.-bound. The European Union in its plan to boost garment exports. About half of all garments in Thailand are sewn from is Thailand’s second-largest market for textile and apparel exports, and the countries imported fabric, he estimated, adding that if Thailand’s apparel exports are to increase, belonging to the Association for Southeast Asian Nations rank third. the industry will need even more raw materials from China. Thailand’s garment makers export 10 million to 15 million pieces annually to the U.S., “Chinese textile makers are coming to see if they can invest in Thailand and we’re Mahasiri said. At Apparel Avenue Co., Jamkajornkeiat said he anticipated boosting his negotiating with them,” he said. “It’s better to work with them than against them.” exports to the U.S. by 50 percent this year because of a major expansion undertaken two The Thai textile industry is also upgrading because of perceived threats from a years ago. He expects to ship five million pieces to the U.S. this year. future of unlimited Chinese exports, said Phongsak Assakul, president of the Thai For U.S. brands already sourcing in Thailand, the one-stop concept won’t mean a Textile Manufacturing Association. change in business. The Gap has men’s and women’s pants, kid’s knitwear and men’s and “We’re anticipating when the safeguards are lifted,” Assakul said, noting that women’s sweaters manufactured in Thailand, said Karen Leung, senior manager of the Thailand is focusing on boosting its manufacture of cotton and cotton-blend fabrics. Gap office in Bangkok. The U.S. and China last week signed an import-restraint agreement that set quotas on “We don’t focus on countries, but on vendors,” Leung said. Chinese goods through 2008. The Gap imports about 95 percent of its fabric from China for sewing in Thailand, Thailand’s textile and apparel industries can’t compete with China’s low-end man- Leung said. ufacturers, but should instead focus on the high-end market, said Henry Liu, market- “We explored using Thai fabric, but their capacity and turnaround time was not as ing director for Bangkok-based garment maker Castle Peak Holdings Public Co. quick as China and Taiwan,” she said. His firm sews for Columbia, L.L. Bean, Patagonia, Jones New York and Polo Ralph A spokeswoman for Ann Taylor Sourcing Far East Ltd. in Bangkok also said the one- Lauren, and exports 75 percent of its production to the U.S. It is investing heavily in stop plan would not affect its Thai business, noting that Ann Taylor has casualwear building capacity for pants, shirts and outerwear, he said. Most of its fabric is import- sewn in Thailand. ed from China, Hong Kong, Japan and Europe. The Thai government also is spending about $40 million on its Bangkok Fashion “Thai fabric just isn’t appropriate for outerwear,” he said. City project, aimed at developing the human resources needed for a bigger, more com- Because of Thailand’s welfare system, salaries are higher than those of its Asian neigh- petitive Thai garment industry. Designers from the Fashion Institute of Technology in bors. Thai garment workers make an average of $250 a month, while those in China may New York have been recruited to teach fashion design at Chulalongkorn University, earn $50 each month, Jamkajornkeiat said. Garment workers in Cambodia earn on aver- whose campus sprawls across downtown Bangkok. The 18-month project also hosts age $40 per month, while those in Indonesia are paid $120 to $150 per month. trade fairs to showcase Thai designers and products, and aims to promote smoother “Thailand is at the stage where it can produce garments from the high end to the low working relations between the Thai garment and textile industries. end,” Mahasiri said. “For the small- and mid-sized buyer, if an item is 20 cents more, they “This entire project is meant to encourage fashion manufacturing,” said project direc- don’t worry. It’s the large manufacturers, like Wal-Mart, that can’t afford that difference. tor Programode Vidtayasuk, who is also director general of the government’s Department For them, it’s a huge amount.” of Industrial Promotion. “It’s trying to help create branding of the Thai fashion industry.” The Fiber Price Sheet Bangladesh Mills Make U.S. Show Debut The last Tuesday of every month, WWD publishes the current, month- ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost of one By Julee Greenberg price as much as the buyers wanted. pound of fiber or, in the case of crude oil, one barrel. “We have great quality and I won’t make money NEW YORK — Bangladesh knitwear producers if I charge them such a low price,” he said. stitched together their first U.S. trade show to Frederique Honore, a representative at Texeurop Price on Price on Price on make a pitch to the American market, but found Ltd., agreed, saying: “People have been very happy Fiber 11/28/05* 10/24/05 11/29/04 the challenges daunting. and surprised with how good our quality is. But they Cotton 55.81 cents 51.76 cents 48.29 cents The Bangladesh Knitwear Sourcing show all want it very cheap and we can’t do that.” ended its two-day run Nov. 16 at Manhattan’s Hotel While Texeurop is a France-based company, it Wool $2.17 $2.28 $2.57 Pennsylvania, bringing together 45 of the country’s opened a production facility in Bangladesh Polyester staple 79 cents 82 cents 63 cents top knitters, all members of the Bangladesh about five months ago. Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association, “We have all new machines, no child labor Polyester filament 76 cents 83 cents 63 cents which now has 917 member companies. and better quality than you can find in China or October Synthetic PPI 112.9 112.7 107.5 Bangladesh, which already has a strong busi- in India,” she said. “You have to pay for that.” Crude Oil $58.71 $60.63 $49.44 ness in the knit sector with other countries, is Fazlul Hoque, president of BKMEA, said this working to pump up its presence in the U.S. contingent of companies is the largest group of man- since quota restrictions were lifted this year. ufacturers ever to come to the U.S. from Bangladesh. *The current cotton price is the October average on fiber being delivered to “The show really hasn’t been so busy, but I “Bangladesh is doing strong business in knits Southeastern region mills, according to Agricultural Marketing Services/USDA. The think it’s because this is the first time,” said and we really can supply product very quickly,” he wool price is based on the average price for the week ended TK of 11 different thick- Babru Chowdhury, director of Arch Ltd. “I’m also said. “We offer competitive prices and have much nesses of fiber, ranging from 15 microns to 30 microns, according to The Woolmark surprised that buyers in the U.S. are much dif- better quality items than what China can offer.” Co. Information on polyester pricing is provided by the consulting firm DeWitt & Co. ferent than those in Europe. Here they want it Hoque said he was aware of vendors’ con- The synthetic-fiber producer index, or PPI, is compiled by the Bureau of Labor cheap, they don’t care about the quality as much. cerns about pricing. Statistics and reflects the overall change in all synthetic-fiber prices. It is not a price in In Europe, they pay for good quality.” “Price does seem to be the biggest issue in dollars but a measurement of how prices have changed since 1982, which had a PPI Chowdhury said that, while he would like to many cases,” he said. “But I am sure many of the of 100. Oil prices reflect last week’s closing price on the New York Mercantile do more business with companies based in the companies can negotiate. We’ll have to wait and Exchange of future contracts for light, sweet crude oil to be delivered next month. U.S., it was impossible for him to come down in see what happens.” 10 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM China Currency Passes Treasury Test D.C.’s Dutch Treat By Kristi Ellis phasis on sustainable domestic sources of growth, By Evan Clark including by modernizing the financial sector, which WASHINGTON — The Bush administration said will support and complement greater currency flexi- WASHINGTON — The Wash- Monday that China’s recent steps in reforming the bility, also factored into this decision.” ington social whirl, the Dutch fixed exchange rate between the yuan and the dol- Snow said in a statement that China must make ambassador’s wife and fresh lar were sufficient to avoid being categorized a further progress “to incorporate flexibility reflect- flowers attracted a special lunch “manipulator” of currency, which could have lead ing underlying market forces in China’s…ex- crowd to the residence of the to World Trade Organization export sanctions. change rate by the time of the next Foreign Dutch embassy this month. Treasury Secretary John Snow stopped short Exchange Report.” The “50 fabulous Washington of designating China a country that “manipulates “While China has taken additional steps to de- women,” as the invitation charac- its currency” in a semiannual report to Congress velop a market-based exchange rate and further terized them, helped Jellie van that assesses exchange-rate policies and deter- open capital markets, its progress to date is limit- Eenennaam, the wife of Dutch mines whether they create unfair trading prac- ed and far too slow to be sufficient,” he said in the ambassador Boudewijn J. van tices. The administration for two years has used statement. “The actual operation of the new sys- Eenennaam, honor model Fred- so-called financial diplomacy in an effort to con- tem is highly constricted. As a result, the distor- erique van der Wal, host of “The vince China to adopt a new exchange rate system. tions and risks created by China’s rigid exchange Invisible Journey With Freder- Snow’s report was likely to disappoint lawmak- rate still persist.” ique: Flowers,” which aired Mon- ers who have pressured the administration to Snow added that Treasury will monitor China’s day night on the Travel Channel. crack down on what they claim are China’s unfair progress in implementing exchange-rate flexibili- Van der Wal, who moved to the trading practices and business groups alleging ty in preparing the next report. U.S. 17 years ago and parlayed that U.S. manufacturers are losing jobs because of Sens. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) and Lindsey her looks into a modeling career China’s undervalued currency. Graham (R., S.C.) introduced legislation this year with brands from Guess to Vic- Critics of China’s fixed currency, including U.S. that calls for a 27.5 percent tariff on all Chinese toria’s Secret, was inspired to cre- textile industry executives, argue that it artificially imports if the country does not reform its curren- ate the show when a new lily, the lowers the price of Chinese goods by as much as 40 cy policies by a certain time period. Frederique, was named after her. percent and subsidizes exports, putting U.S. com- The senators announced this month they would “The concept was created by panies at a disadvantage and leading to job losses. delay for a second time the deadline for a vote on me,” she said of the Travel Chan- They have also argued that a lack of currency flexi- their bill until Dec. 23. They agreed to a postpone- nel program, which traces the bility has been a major factor in a trade deficit with ment in June after meeting with Snow and multibillion-dollar flower busi- China that reached a record $162 billion last year. Federal Reserve Board chairman Alan Greenspan ness from field to vase. After months of political and market pressure, and receiving assurances that China was taking Next year, she is to host three MYRIE/WIREIMAGE LOUIS PHOTOS BY Frederique van der Wal was honored China in July stopped pegging the yuan strictly to steps toward a more flexible fiscal policy. similar shows focusing on other at a luncheon hosted by Jellie van the dollar and instead pegged it to a basket of cur- “The Chinese manipulate their currency and oft-used but rarely examined Eenennaam. rencies, strengthening it by 2.1 percent to 8.11 for the administration should not have ducked the products, such as diamonds or every dollar — a move many economists and busi- issue,” Schumer said in a statement. “The first coffee. Such luncheons are also vital ness groups dismissed as being too little. step in getting the Chinese to play fairly is for the Working with flowers is a nat- for ambassadors’ wives, often “Because of this action and China’s stated and re- administration to be straight with the American ural way for van der Wal to con- charged with keeping elaborate peatedly reaffirmed commitment to enhanced, mar- people and say what they’ve said before — China nect with The Netherlands’ de- social calendars. ket-determined currency flexibility, Treasury has re- manipulates its currency. Their refusal to ac- votion to horticulture. “This was one of my roles, frained from designating China at this time,” the re- knowledge reality and take the necessary correc- She said the Dutch people going out and making friends,” port stated. “China’s commitment to put greater em- tive action hurts every American.” have a traditional side that helps said Carmen Ducaru, who helps them keep on an even keel. her husband, Ambassador Sorin “The man opens the door for Ducaru, represent Romania in a woman, [that] is fine,” she said. Washington. “It’s very much a re- “There needs to be a balance.” sults-orientated job. You try to That balance provided a sub- make yourself very well known text for the lunch, which was a in the city, reaching out to peo- Elyse Schindler-Candella working event for many of the ple and making friends and of women. helping your husband through “Ladies Who Lunch are ladies your friends.” Winick Realty Group who do things,” said self-de- The competition can be scribed Washington character fierce, politically and socially. and Tandy Dickerson, pointing to the “Inside the Beltway it’s a melt- charitable efforts and fund-raising ing pot, but it’s very powerful, Jay Luchs prowess of those in attendance. boiling all the time,” Ducaru said. of Hudson’s Bay Moves

Would like to congratulate their client To Avoid Hostile Bid By Brian Dunn

MONTREAL — Hudson’s Bay Co. is in talks with other parties in GRAFF an effort to stave off a $935 million hostile takeover bid from American financier Jerry Zucker. In recently signing a lease at The negotiations were revealed in an HBC board filing with government regulators and sent to shareholders who rejected Zucker’s bid for being too low. It said the board “is actively as- sessing and pursuing alternatives to the offers [from Zucker’s 317 N. Rodeo Drive Maple Leaf Heritage Investments Acquisition Corp.] and discus- sions are under way with numerous parties who have expressed Beverly Hills, California an interest in a strategic transaction with HBC.” “It’s a normal course of action that management takes in this kind of situation,” said retail analyst George Hartman of Dundee Good luck, Securities Corp. in Toronto. “But if other people do have an in- terest, there’s room for a better offer.” A spokesman for Maple Leaf said Zucker has no plans to im- Elyse & Jay prove his offer and expects to respond to HBC’s rejection this week. Asked if Zucker can turn things around at HBC, which re- ported a third-quarter loss last week of $43 million on sales of $1.39 billion, Hartman said Zucker likely will hire someone to turn it around. All figures have been converted from Canadian dollars. Elyse Schindler – Candella Jay Luchs The $43 million loss, or 61 cents a share, for the quarter ended Winick Realty Group CB Richard Ellis Oct. 31 was a steep increase from a loss of $6.8 million, or nine cents, on sales of $1.44 billion a year earlier. For the first nine 212.792.2606 310.550.2603 months, HBC lost $85.5 million, or $1.23 cents a share, on revenue [email protected] [email protected] of $4 billion versus a loss of $39 million, or 57 cents, on revenue of $4.11 billion. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 11 WWD.COM Dalla Palma Sets Home Fragrance and Skin Care By Stephanie Epiro go for 60 euros, or $70.80. The makeup tools were in- al department so we can capture The skin care collection will spired by Diego Dalla Palma’s new markets,” said Zuccarini, MILAN — After completing a re- include products designed for use roots. “Diego Dalla Palma was who noted the company’s cos- cent relaunch of its color cos- by aestheticians and consumers, founded by a professional make- metics line was selling well in metics assortment, Italian beau- with more than one-third of the up artist, so these are profes- Dubai, Cyprus and Columbia. ty company Diego Dalla Palma items in the line intended to be sional, functional and sleek While Diego Dalla Palma is set to diversify into skin care used by professionals in spas. tools,” said Zuccarini. skipped the Cosmoprof show in and home fragrance. “We are making the brand In order to foster brand Bologna earlier this year, the A home fragrance line, in- more lifestyle [oriented],” said awareness, Diego Dalla Palma Milan-based company is certain cluding four candles and match- Zuccarini. “We are a profession- adopted a strategy this year of ex- it will return for the 2006 edi- ing scents priced at 15 euros, or al makeup and beauty brand hibiting at international beauty tion. Cosmoprof Moscow and $17.70 at current exchange, will and that can extend to include fairs to introduce its new and ex- Singapore are also on the com- be the first step for the compa- other product categories.” isting lines outside of Italy, start- pany’s agenda next year. New ny. A cinnamon and clove can- One of Diego Dalla Palma’s candles. Along with its home and skin ing from a larger space at Cannes geographical frontiers for the dle was launched as part of a cosmetics,” said Zuccarini. “We care lines, Diego Dalla Palma Duty Free earlier this month. company will include the U.K. market test earlier this month. want to put the line in niche bou- also has created a set of cosmet- “The Italian market is consol- and North America, where The rest of the line will be tiques and home wares stores.” ics accessories, which will be idated so now we are concen- Diego Dalla Palma plans to in- rolled out early next year. Meanwhile, the company is carried with its color cosmetics trating on moving outside [Italy] troduce the new skin care line Marketing director Grazie busy putting the finishing touch- line in 700 global points of sale. with our reinforced internation- next year. Zuccarini said the company es on a 60-stockkeeping-unit skin Eight makeup tools — including hoped to launch the home line care line, which Diego Dalla a lip brush contained in a chic at 500 doors globally, across Palma plans to launch at 100 black container, a set of dispos- multiple channels. stores in February. The collec- able sponges, a sharpener, eye- “We want to keep this line con- tion is based on ingredients de- brow tweezers and eye shadow tained and at the same time take rived from plants and vegetables applicators — are priced from 7 it to other channels outside of the from the Mediterranean region euros, or $8.25, to 15 euros, or ones we are currently in for our and a moisturizer in the line will $17.70.

doll was wrangled The Ungaro for a mighty 5,000 doll. Fashion Scoops euros, or $5,900, by French rocker STATUS WHEELS: Holiday catalogues of luxury retailers, Johnny Hallyday. traditionally filled with festive fashions, jewelry, ornaments Also up for grabs and gifts, have become a vehicle for launching expensive were signed automobiles. The latest is Saks Fifth Avenue, which portraits of celebs offered the 2007 Mercedes-Benz S600 special edition living out childhood sedan priced at $145,000. The 20 S600s available to fantasies, including customers of Saks’ The Gift holiday catalogue sold out on Naomi Campbell Nov. 22 in less than seven minutes, the company said. posing as a About 700 more shoppers were on hold waiting to place ballerina and Prince orders, only to be turned away. Albert II of Monaco as a mustachioed cowboy. The event raised 77,300 euros, or $86,000.

A BAMBI FOR KARL: No, Karl Lagerfeld has not developed a fancy for baby deer. Rather, the designer will be given a Bambi award in the category “Creativity” from the Hubert Burda Media Group in Munich on Thursday. The televised award ceremony is a major media spectacle in Germany. To quote the jury, Lagerfeld is being celebrated for “his exceptional success as a fashion creator, for his exceptional creativity as a photographer and designer, as well as for the creative presentation of his labels as an aesthetic Gesamtkunstwerk, or work of art.”

FORTISSIMA: Gabriella Forte might have resigned from her post as the president of Dolce & Gabbana USA earlier this year, but she’s still working with the design duo — this time in Milan. Dolce & Gabbana chief operating officer Cristiana Ruella confirmed Forte has been working as an “executive consultant” in the design office for a The Mercedes-Benz S600 and a look at the car’s interior. couple of months. “She is working with the designers,” Ruella said. Recent speculation had Forte staying at Part of the frenzy had to do with being the first Dolce & Gabbana, but it wasn’t clear what her title person on the block to own an S600. The 12-cylinder, would be. Forte was spotted at Dolce & Gabbana’s 20th bi-turbo sedans sold through Saks are being released anniversary runway show in September and was mum on slightly in advance of the official sale date in the spring. her future plans. “I’m just a family guest,” she In addition, the car is fully loaded with special-edition demurred from the front row. Glenn McMahon, formerly equipment such as a transparent glass roof, Sirius the president of Ellen Tracy, replaced Forte as Dolce & satellite radio, DVD audio changer, seats with massaging Gabbana USA’s president in September. functions and other gadgets. Mindful of the style In other Dolce & Gabbana news, the company’s quotient required for brands associated with Saks, the longtime director of worldwide public relations is cars were designed with mocha black exteriors and stepping down after almost two decades with the brand. almond beige interiors combined with hand-polished The company said Carla Buzzi had “decided to terminate piano lacquer black wood. her collaboration with [the] group…for personal reasons.” A successor has not been named. Buzzi will continue to DOLL FACE: Not many made-to-measure Yves Saint work in the company until a replacement is found. Laurent gowns go for 1,500 euros, or around $1,765. Buzzi’s departure is just the latest in a series of sudden But then again, not many come quite so small. Fifty-five press office shifts in Milan. Earlier this month, Gianfranco designer dolls went under the hammer last week in Paris Ferré’s longtime director of communications, Rita Airaghi, in aid of UNICEF, including Lanvin’s vampy “Josephine” left the company. Meanwhile at Krizia, Rossella Mauri, in a leopard skin cape and Emanuel Ungaro’s “Pepita head of global communications, is set to walk away from von Chocolade” clad in a little blue mermaid dress. “It’s the Italian fashion house at the end of this year. It seems so cute, it’s got orange braids,” Delphine Arnault cooed Mauri, who has worked at Krizia for 35 years, wants to about Christian Dior’s denim-clad monogram doll. “I still trade in the signature animal prints so favored by Krizia have all of my childhood dolls packed away in the attic designer Mariuccia Mandelli for the real deal. Mauri said at home,” she added. Dice Kayek’s majestic Chinese she plans to move to Namibia to open a luxury safari lodge. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM Europe’s Holiday Hopes Rest on Luxury

Continued from page one “Apparel brands just under the luxury European retailers expect strong watch sales during the next six months, according to price point are top sellers,” he said. “As for ac- a recent Goldman Sachs report. cessories, it’s all about luxury brands. Shoes But even if luxury accessories and high-end fashion are elevating business, the are strong. Beauty is not.” outlook is far from simple to read. A Europe-wide study released last Tuesday by con- In the U.K., retailers said the season had sulting firm Deloitte found most Europeans plan to spend less this Christmas, with a started on a sure footing. majority saying they are worried about tough economic times. Thirty-one percent of Luisa De Paula, director of fashion at European shoppers told Deloitte they would spend more time comparing prices be- Liberty, said the London store had a “pretty fore buying presents. good season” despite predictions of gloom ram- French shoppers said they would spend 3 percent less than last year; Germans, 9 per- pant in the press. cent less; Italians, 6 percent less; Portuguese, 6 percent less, and the Dutch, 5 percent less. “All of the doom and gloom in the press More optimistic were Irish shoppers, who said they would spend 8 percent more; [about retail] leads customers to believe that Spaniards, 6 percent more, and shoppers in the U.K., 1 percent more. there is a massive sale on the way,” she said, Retailers in Continental Europe have struggled for some time, especially large discoun- adding that unseasonably warm weather had ters, while the lion’s share of European growth has come from exports and investment as complicated the holiday mood. private consumption has trailed behind in key markets such as Germany and France. “There’s been no Christmas rush yet,” she France’s Carrefour, for instance, has been unable to ratchet up growth at its key said. Nonetheless, she reported double-digit French hypermarkets, while Germany’s Metro has fared little better as cost-conscious growth on last year for the season, bolstered customers also defect to more affordable discount channels. by a strong start to fall. Top sellers included On the flip side, the U.K’s Marks & Spencer reported a 63 percent increase in first- women’s fashion and accessories. half profits, boosted by gains in women’s wear and a focus on full-price sales. But “Dries Van Noten has been extremely even Britain’s Tesco plc, which has been a juggernaut over the last few years, said last strong this season, along with Roland Mouret week its sales growth had slowed for the first time in two years and expressed con- — everyone wants [the Galaxy] dress,” she cern over the impact of rising fuel costs and increasing household debt. said. “Matthew Williamson is popular. Ann The mixed data have left some analysts scratching their heads as they contemplate Demeulemeester this season has sold very how the pendulum will swing. quickly, particularly the jackets and coats. “The ultimate panorama doesn’t look good,” said Christian Devismes, retail ana- Anne Valerie Hache has also sold very well.” lyst at Natexis Bleichroeder in Paris. “But in France, for some reason, retail has been Dresses in general have been “phenome- all right, despite the negative climate.” nal,” De Paula said. A spot check of European stores showed many to be optimistic in the run-up to As for accessories, De Paula said high-end Christmas. They count on the high-end to get shoppers to spend — even if they ac- brands had stimulated growth. knowledge the season is likely to be a tough trudge. “Bags from Chloé, Marc Jacobs and Miu “I don’t see an easy holiday season,” said Philippe de Beauvoir, president of Paris’ Miu, and Dries [van Noten] scarves have done Bon Marché high-end specialty store. “My instinct says that we are in for tough times. well. The growth is in the designer sector, as Of course, the recent riots won’t help. There is no élan.” the middle market is suffering.” That said, Beauvoir expects his store to generate a 4 percent year-on-year increase At Harvey Nichols, buying director Averyl — and hopes holiday will play its significant role after a tough October of unseason- Lanvin clothes and Alexander McQueen’s Oates said the store hoped to avoid steep pre- ably warm weather, although November was somewhat more seasonal. Novak bags are hot sellers at Harvey holiday markdowns. She said exclusive mer- A recent study in France by TNS Sofres found more French people plan to spend Nichols in London. chandise should contribute to the cause, includ- less this year on gifts. According to polling, 38 percent said they would spend less ing special versions of bags from top brands, than last year (up 5 percent from last year’s survey), while 45 percent said they would such as Chloé’s Becky bag and a Stam bag in an spend about the same. Only 16 percent said they would spend more. exclusive blush pink from Marc Jacobs. To tempt shoppers, many Paris stores have held early promotions. Oates said Alexander McQueen’s Novak bag Galeries Lafayette, the mammoth department store on the Boulevard Haussmann, had sold out. “Exclusivity — that’s how we are gave 30 percent off a wide selection of merchandise. Hundreds of toys were marked down attacking sales and markdowns,” she said. and the store’s charge card holders were offered 15 percent off almost all products. “We’ve had a very strong double-digit in- Down the street at the Printemps department store, 30 percent was slashed off se- crease in contemporary,” Oates continued. “A lected merchandise in pre-Christmas promotions, and charge card holders were of- lot of our business is coming through sales of fered various reductions. Chloé, McQueen and Lanvin.” Likewise, the Unger department store in Hamburg, Germany, started sales on Nov. 14. In Italy, Soo-Hyoune Kim, director of La Despite reductions, retailers said they expected fewer markdowns than in the past Rinascente’s youth-oriented retail concept — good news for the bottom line. Jam Store in Rome, voiced optimism. Pierre Pelarrey, buying director at Printemps, said “Christmas will be hard but you need to the store had “more special activities planned this offer the right items,” she said. “Over the last year than in the past.” few years, we’ve been selling more gadgets He said the store hoped to drum up business with than clothing for gifts.” its “English Christmas” theme and corresponding ac- She said the store is stocking up on gift tivities: a “bespoke” cafe by Ozwald Boateng, a small items like dancing iDog robots, scented soaps Harrods boutique and a Portobello Road flea market and massagers. installation, among others. Jam Store is doing swift business in colorful pom-pom scarves, funky rain boots with “The challenge is to get people into the store,” he heels or sparkly crystals as well as T-shirts and other items bearing Betty Boop’s image. said, noting — as most European retailers did — that “They have to be special and well-differentiated from other things,” she said of October had been slow due to unseasonably warm these bestsellers. weather. Colder weather has finally hit Europe, though, Rosy Biffi, owner of two Biffi boutiques in Milan and Bergamo and a Banner store in with temperatures in Paris hovering around 34 degrees. Milan, said fur, boots and bags were selling. Other top sellers include shearling and down Pelarrey said women’s fashion showed promise, jackets, cropped fur coats and ponchos and boots by Hogan, Gucci and Pirelli’s Pzero. with luxury accessories, including watches and jew- Whereas last year was about the “It” boot, the Ugg, she’s moving a wide variety of elry, performing well. “Beauty has been more disap- brands and styles in boots this fall season. pointing,” he said. In Germany, KaDeWe, Berlin’s leading department store and the prestige flagship He said the store was gunning for a modest full- of the Karstadt department store chain, has just given its apparel floors a major year increase. facelift, which is paying off. Petra Fladenhofer, head of marketing, said the store’s Michel Roulleau, assistant chief executive at women’s designer area was “slightly over plan” and that sales had gained 20 to 30 per- Galeries Lafayette, reported “satisfying” sales cent in the bridge department. Shoes had rocketed 50 percent and accessories are through the end of October. “August and September doing “super,” led by Chanel, Dior, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. started very strong,” he said. “October was slower Fladenhofer characterized the current consumer mood at KaDeWe as “good” in due to the [warm] weather.” spite of the ongoing uncertainty of Germany’s political and economical outlook. The Roulleau said embroidered tops, jupons (petti- store expects a “slight increase over last year” in Christmas sales. coats), boots, big belts and military-style jackets had Unger, a specialty store in Hamburg, has had a “very good season,” said co-direc- been top sellers in fashion. “All varieties of denim tor Florian Braun. But she said Christmas would require deft merchant skills. are still strong,” he said, noting that Bermudas also “You really have to show skill, so that the women won’t have a bad conscience were hot. about spending money,” she said. “Our customers haven’t been financially hard-hit, He said Jean-Charles de Castelbajac had been but you need to be more convincing. It has less to do with fashion than the social cli- asked to decorate the store to reflect a “royal mate. People even ask for discounts, which we never give.” Christmas” theme. Such attitudes among shoppers remain representative of European retail chal- At Bon Marché, Beauvoir said expensive shoes and lenges, as European growth is still lagging well behind the U.S. bags, as well as contemporary brands such as Vanessa The International Monetary Fund forecast the euro region will probably expand Isabelle Bruno and Isabelle Marant had driven business this 1.2 percent this year, compared with 2 percent growth in 2004. By contrast, the U.S. Marant is a season. “Chloé has also been very solid,” he said. economy, the world’s largest, is expected to expand 3.5 percent this year. big seller at He said the store hoped to make up for lost ground Such data keep merchants guessing just how Christmas will shape up. Bon Marché in October with the two extra Saturdays in December, — With contributions from Amanda Kaiser, Milan; inin Paris.Paris. before Dec. 25 and 31. PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY Nina Jones, London and Melissa Drier, Berlin the power players, scene stealers and creative genuises responsible for keeping hollywood hot.

the hollywood A LIST

FEBRUARY 2006 ISSUE

ARE YOU IN IT?

photo by Glen Luchford

advertising details space close: december 5, 2005 on sale: january 6, 2006 contact: jennifer moccia at 212.630.4904 14 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 WWD.COM Robinson Trains Eye on China Shanghai Week: A Step Toward Future By Lisa Movius For Paco Rabanne Expansion A table at “Old SHANGHAI — Opening with Paco Rabanne and Shanghai Night” SHANGHAI — Patrick Robinson, closing with Karl Lagerfeld made something of a sponsored by creative director of Paco Ra- splash, but the third annual Shanghai Fashion Shangtex. banne, is brimming with ideas Week was less about the designers and press that for expansion in China. flocked to the tents in downtown Fuxing Park than “I adore Shanghai,” Robinson the flutter of fashion events occurring simultane- said during his first visit to the ously in the city. city this month. “I just feel like The Audi Shanghai Fashion Week 2005 the young people here are going International Fashion Showcase, hosted by the to truly change the world. People’s Government of Shanghai and sponsored They’re all looking toward the fu- by the German carmaker, is part of the govern- ture, and I think it’s going to be ment’s aspiration to transform Shanghai into an extraordinary. Young Chinese “international fashion capital.” This year’s event have this love for luxury, for life.” Patrick attracted praise from many participants, as well Robinson was here for Robinson in as more criticism that it suffers from the disor- Shanghai Fashion Week, which Shanghai. ganization, bureaucracy and lack of focus so en- Paco Rabanne inaugurated with demic to state-run events in China. a show in Fuxing Park Nov. 1. market in an inventive way,” Shanghai Week started with a party, open only Other houses presenting in the Robinson said. “We wouldn’t just to government VIPs and organizers, on Oct. 28 at three-year-old fashion week in- open a flagship and have the the Ruijin Guesthouse. The public opening was cluded Lagerfeld Gallery, Basso product in it. For example, this the next evening, with an “Old Shanghai Night” & Brook and Preen. collection uses vintage kimonos sponsored by the textile giant Shangtex at the M50 “I made every effort to re- in all of the clothes. In the stores, gallery compound on Moganshan Lu. The high- arrange my schedule to be every dress is exclusive, because light was an exhibition of vintage pre-1949 here,’’ he said. “I’ve always been every one is made with the vin- cheongsams, or qipaos, as they are called in fascinated with China. The tage kimono fabric. No two are Mandarin, selected from the collection at the mu- whole world is talking about alike, so each is made one at a seum of Donghua Textile University. An apparel how fabulous it is....It’s even time. This gives it an exclusivity, trade fair, the Shanghai Fashion Week Expo was more interesting than people versus mass luxury. This gives us held Oct. 29-31 at Shanghai Mart. On Oct. 31, P&G say. There’s something very an interesting conversation, Beauty opened a beauty product consumer fair, spectacular about it, so much being inventive at retail…it can which ran for a week and handed out samples of energy, and this mixed culture.” be a one-on-one experience.” and information about products from the partici- Paco Rabanne has no distri- Robinson praised the pants, including Anna Sui, Vidal Sassoon, bution in mainland China, and Shanghai International Fashion CoverGirl, Pantene, Max Factor, Olay and SK-II. only has a presence in Lane Committee, Shanghai Fashion The high-profile section of fashion week was Crawford in Hong Kong. That Week’s organizers. “Shanghai at the international designer catwalk shows, which could change in the immediate this point can become one of the began with Paco Rabanne. Patrick Robinson, Paco future, though, Robinson said. international stops,” he said. “I Rabanne’s creative director, was invited to attend “I came because I wanted to in- told [the SIFC], fashion isn’t just as the featured designer for fashion week. The fol- troduce the brand here, and per- clothing. When you look at bring- lowing days showed collections from Preen by sonally wanted to come to under- ing the culture of fashion to Thornton Bregazzi, Malene Birger, Basso & stand better where this market is Shanghai, it also should expand Brooke and Elena Miro, and then concluded with headed. It’s definitely heading in more into the arts, because most Lagerfeld Gallery. The final event was the the right direction,” he said. designers enjoy being surround- Oriental Model Competition. During the visit, Robinson ed by musicians and artists and Robinson praised the organizers, the Shanghai met with luxury complex Three graphic people, architects, too.” International Fashion Committee. “For someone on the Bund about possibly sell- Robinson stressed the need to like myself, to come in here from the outside, the P&G Beauty opened a beauty product consumer fair. ing there, and is also eyeing better train new Chinese talent, way they handled press coordination, handled the label Chloé, which had its gala China launch on Plaza 66 as a location for a Paco and Paco Rabanne plans to start interviews and TV, I thought it was outstanding.” Nov. 3, said, “China is a very important and spe- Rabanne flagship that could offering six-month internships to However, local fashion insiders were less gen- cial market to us and we intend to treat it as such. open as soon as next year. Chinese design students. erous. One, a brand manager who has worked We wanted to ensure at the launch of the brand in “We want to approach the — L.M. closely with SIFC, explained that this year was China that the Chinese fashion consumers were the first time that Shanghai Fashion Week and the the first to see the runway pieces outside of Shanghai International Fashion Festival were to- Paris.” That it coincided with fashion week, he PICKING UP THE SPLIT: It took gether. Previously independent, the SIFF organiz- concluded, was a fortunate plus. patience, but Us Weekly has won its ers were subsumed into the SIFC, and there were Among the motivations for brand events was staring match with Jessica Simpson complaints that infighting was rife. Others said the Comité Colbert exhibition at Plaza 66. The MEMO PAD and Nick Lachey. After denying a key fashion press and designers were denied tick- concluding fashion event of the France in China series of Us cover stories saying they ets to events, with priority given to government of- Year, the exhibition highlighted the diversity were through, the celebrity couple finally went public with their divorce ficials and guests of corporate sponsors such as and history of France’s luxury brands, which plans last Wednesday night. Us, which first reported the split way back Audi and Kohler. sent large delegations of their senior manage- in mid-October, got the scoop on the official announcement, as well, “It was chaotic because fashion week and the ment to Shanghai. breaking it on its Web site. International Fashion Festival were together for Exhibitions were a common thread through the To be sure, Us editor in chief Janice Min — and her counterparts at the first time,” said Li Yong, vice president of fashion brand events this season, mostly working the other celebrity weeklies — would have preferred to get the news a Shanghai Television’s Channel Young, a co-organ- in cooperation with contemporary Chinese art. few days earlier, in time to include it in the print edition. Did Min izer of fashion week. “I know that to outsiders, it Shanghai Tang collaborated with Chinese artists believe Simpson and Lachey timed the announcement to all seems the same, but from the inside, it’s get- in creating part of its spring-summer 2006 inconvenience the entertainment press? “It’d be naive not to think that ting better because we just installed a lot of good Forbidden City collection, which showed on Oct. was a consideration,” she said. people in key positions. We’ll see the results in a 28 in the Confucian Temple. Inspired by the art of No one got tripped up worse than Celebrity Living. The American better event next year.” Xue Song, the company created a series of five Media-owned title published a cover story last week claiming Simpson and Li agreed with a widespread impression that limited-edition products in cooperation with Lachey were set to adopt a baby. Worse yet is this week’s issue, on sale the Shanghai government holds such events with- Chen Yu, Yu Chen, Feng Zhengjie, Liu Ye and beginning Wednesday: Its main cover line reads “Jessica’s Baby Weight out any clear purpose other than to attract press. Chen Wenbo. The same evening, MAC Cosmetics Battle: She’s Finally Pregnant!” The blunder is a product of Celebrity “They want to be a fashion capital and see that organized a party at the Doland Modern Art Living’s protracted production schedule, which requires the magazine to the current fashion capitals all have fashion Museum that involved artists painting on close almost a full week before it goes on sale. Sister publication Star also weeks. Of course, becoming a fashion capital is cheongsams. Lacoste held a fund-raiser on Oct. 25 has a cover story on Jessica’s “pregnancy” in the current issue. not that simple.” for the Special Olympics with a party and silent Naturally, Min couldn’t resist taking a small dig at the competition. He continued that, rather than events, auction of creative reinterpretations of the “When it comes down to it,” she said, “the illusion of reporting can Shanghai needs more professionalism and expert- Lacoste shirt by celebrities and artists. never trump actual reporting.” — Jeff Bercovici ise. “People think Shanghai has a great fashion Participating celebrities included basketball star scene because it has shows and parties every Yao Ming. QUICK ADDENDUM: Areport in Monday’s WWD that sales of Quick & night, but that’s all superficial in the absence of Many other brands held events during the sea- Simple, Hearst’s new weekly women’s service title, have tailed off since people who really understand fashion.” son, among them Hugo Boss and Louis Vuitton. the magazine went weekly in October was not the whole story. A Hearst During, before and after fashion week, Taiwanese label Shiatzy Chen opened its Bund 9 spokeswoman declined to comment on specific sales estimates for recent Shanghai was a swirl of fashion shows and par- flagship on Oct. 29, and Baume & Mercier held its issues (between 70,000 and 80,000 per issue, according to an industry ties, with the most and best independent of the of- China launch the following evening. The China source), but did provide a statement: “The final sales for Quick & Simple’s ficial event. Many of the international brands Fashion Awards gala was held on Nov. 5. Vera first few weekly issues are significantly higher than what the scanner data staged launches, shows and promotions, but many Wang, who won the CFA for International indicated. In fact, our most recent issues have doubled October’s sales and of the city’s fashionistas opted to skip the official Designer of the Year, launched her first China we’re delighted with the consumer response to Quick & Simple.” — J.B. events in favor of glamorous private parties. boutique, The Perfect Wedding, at the Pudong

Gary Leung, China manager of the French Shangri-La the following day. LISA MOVIUS PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2005 15

Senior Textile Designer: Design Swimwear Designer concepts/graphics for fabric. Resrch trends for fabric & trim resourcing. Use s/w such as Illustrator/Phtshp/ Well estabished LA QuarkXPress. Req: MA Fashion or Close Out Wanted in Men’s, based swimwear company Textiles + 1 yr exp. Res to: L. Schwab, Womens & Children’s Clothing. Budget to looking for exp’d designer. Cayre Group, 1407 Broadway, 41 Fl., Seeking energetic, sales driven individuals for moderate pricing. Big quantities possible NYC 10018, NO CALLS. the following opportunities and expansion. [email protected] Bob 212-997-7487 candidate must be creative, team player, have knowledge Sweater, Knits & Woven TD’s and know how to work with * TD-Mens Knits/Woven Sweaters $85K Director of Sales - Coats Photoshop and Illustrator. * Sweater TD-Many Oppts $55-$85K * TD-Womens Knits/Wovens $60K MUST have 5 yrs sales experience in Coats. 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Also must have computer Unique designs detail oriented indiv to design trendy • Document presentation using digital This exceptional opportunity is open denim concepts from start to finish for exp. and laptop to maintain customer Call Lana 212-655-5764 to high energy company leaders with photography Must be a self starter and fast paced jr market. Knowledge of • Regular floor changes including book and correspondence. Base and experience in the luxury goods industry. denim fits, fabrics & washes. Adobe Il- highly motivated person commission as sales exceed goals. Anthony Nak’s headquarters is in Austin, department store accounts PATTERN/SAMPLES lustrator skills & travel overseas req’d. • Participate in company projects as with exp. in this category. A Email Resume to: [email protected] Texas and all candidates must be willing Fax resume to: 212-279-5929 Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast to live in Austin or commute regularly. directed fabulous opportunity with work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 5 years experience with references and Sr. Sales Account Executive DESIGNERS portfolio. Ideal candidate will be crea- great benefits for the right PATTERNS, SAMPLES, This exceptional opportunity is open to * Senior-Runway Contemp Sprtswr $125K tive, resourceful and detail oriented. individual. high energy, organized, creative thinkers * Sweater-Better Market $115K Graphics skills a must. For immediate PRODUCTIONS with proven records in increasing sales * Swimwear-Wal-Mart/K-Mart $70K consideration, please send resume to: Fax resume to: All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. and good merchandising skills. Must * Asst-Colorist Lab Dips/LiteBox $40K [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. be willing to travel extensively. [email protected] 212-947-3400 646-674-1246 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please send resumes to: [email protected] Designer/Tech Assts. PRODUCTIONS APPAREL JOBS Hi fashion, trendsetting designer resort Full service shop to the trade. 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Spec Techs wear co. seeks hi energy, self directed, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. 3)Designers-assoc-assist. boy-girl-YG men-Jr creative team players. ABSOLUTE MUST: Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) intensely detail oriented, very org’d, min. INDEPENDENT SALES REPS Pier 22 Designs 3yrs. exp. w/ Illustrator, drawing & specs GIESSWEIN, Europe’s leading boiled- on MAC, excellent follow-up & comm wool slipper brand, seeks ambitious Full service CAD/Design Studio and experienced Independent Sales 718.428.8822 [email protected] ASSISTANT BUYER skills w/ Asia. Send resume w/ salary to: Women’s Clothing Store seeks Assistant Fax: (212) 627-1077 Reps for women’s, men’s, & children’s Buyer for private label product Athletic Apparel Sales slipper line in all US territories. development department. Needs to be Master apparel licensee for 100+ yr. old Fax resumes to: 207-344-6655 detail oriented, organized and a multi- sports brand with 88% consumer aware- tasker who is computer proficient. NJ Design/Prod’n. Coordinator ness looking for in-house or commission location. Off Shore experience Work with Agents & Factories. Track sales. Must have strong relationships Road Sales preferred! Fax resume and salary & push all fabrics/trims. Responsible and experience selling sports apparel for timely delivery of all samples. Hi/fashion branded jr/contemp. better jeans requirements to: 201-866-0387 to major sporting goods retailers and/ co. is seeking ind. sales reps, for the following Must have foreign factory experience. or Mid-Tier Dept. Stores. Please forward Intensely detail oriented, very org’d. territories Dallas, Mid west, rocky mountain, ASSISTANT DESIGNER resume and salary history to: Atlanta, New England States. Must have Illustrator on MAC a prerequisite. [email protected] Leading better separates co. looking Please fax resume to: (212) 627-1077 showroom, and following. Hi.comm. Email: for organized, motivated, creative [email protected] Fax # 212-382-3488 firecracker willing to do whatever it Sales Director takes. Must have 2 years working with Fashion Denim Maternity Collection Fast growing NYC Sportswear Co. seeks PROD’N COORD $45-70K (1 year old) is looking for Reps on the an exp’d., aggressive, motivated Sales China, drawing skills, spec, sketch, Private Label Exp & PC Skills a Must technical packages, EMB layouts. East & West Coast. Great looking line, Director with strong, well est’d. contacts [email protected] or 212-947-3400 great prices and instant delivery. Fax resume to 212-302-3872/Natasha w/Nat’l. Chain/Dept. Stores & Specialty Call Bradley @ (323) 585-4604 or E-mail: accounts. Fax resume to: 212-575-5505 Assistant Designer/ PRODUCTION [email protected] IMMEDIATE OPPORTUNITY SALES EXECUTIVE Growing intimate apparel import co. Established moderate & contemporary Technical Marithé + François Girbaud ladies’ sportswear manufacturer seeks For leading women’s outerwear manu- seeks highly organized, individual with 5-7 yrs. experience. Must have strong ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE experienced and seasoned sales pro- facturer. Must be computer literate in fessional w/ extensive and established Illustrator, Microsoft Word, Excel & communication skills and the ability Department Store Sales to work in a fast paced environment retail management contacts to aid in Outlook. Photoshop & WebPdm a PLUS! Seeking an experienced Account Exec- building an entry level better sports- Work directly w/ design & sales staff in and excellent follow through. Will utive specializing in department store work together with Far East contractors, wear brand. Please fax resume to: ahighly creative, energized fast paced sales for its women’s young contempo- 212-921-9038 atmosphere. Please fax resumes to: freight forwarders and U.S. warehouse. rary division. Ideal candidate must (212) 719-5547, Attn: Maureen Bongo or Responsible for issuing PO’s to factories, have 5 - 10 years sales experience in Sales Executive for Junior jean Co. Email: [email protected] meeting company deadlines, style designer, contemporary or young Financial Backer master, traffic. Knowledge of fabric We’re a 30 yr. brand, launched new hi Young women’s contemporary co. contemporary. Premium denim sales fashion Jr/Contemp. btr priced jeans. seek- and trims a plus. Excel a must. Please experience a plus. Strong background seeks a financial backer for business Assistant to e-mail resume to: [email protected] ing a highly motivated & dedicated sales growth. Line to be sold in top stores in sales projections, gross margins and prof. w/ a min.3yr.exp, new NY showroom. on west coast for spring. Cash infusion Sales Executive retail math. Must have a flair for mer- Email: [email protected] Fax # 212-382-3488 needed to build company into lifestyle Candidate must be organized, detail PRODUCTION MGR chandising, store assortments and brand. Min investment of $500,000 is oriented, have basic computer skills Growing mod dress co. Seeks experi- good sales presentation skills. SALES PRO WANTED req’d for a 30% stake in business. In- and reliable. Call Erin @ 212-840-7490 enced prod. Mgr. Must have full knowl- Please Fax or Email your resume to: Established branded children’s sports- terested parties should email inqui- or fax resume to 212-840-6961. edge of all phases of import production. [email protected] or wear company seeks sales pro with ries: [email protected] Fax resume 212-279-2460 Fax # 646-459-2633 extensive experience. Must be a self CAD DESIGNER $45K starter, motivated and aggressive with Illustrator & Photoshop. GREAT CO! QC/Testers-2+ yrs exp w/a testing co strong customer relationships with [email protected] or doing QC/testing for handbags/toys department stores and mid-tier branded or novelty hardlines nec. $50-60K Sales Account markets. Design Assistant Les Richards agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Associate Fax your salary requirements to Major apparel company seeks experi- Major athletic apparel company seeks Stephanie Rodriguez 212-967-2420 enced individual to act as liaison Sales Account Associate with athletic FASHION RESUMES between design and production. Respon- SAMPLEMAKER apparel experience. Responsibilities in- Sales / Sales Assistant Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail sibilities include assisting designers Highly skilled & efficient sewer for clude managing existing accounts as well Watch mfr seeks exp’d salesperson to Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates with concepts/layouts, pricing inquiries small couture studio in Soho. Attention as aggressively pursuing new sales leads. assist VP Sales. Candidate must be GILBERT CAREER RESUMES and completing production packages. to detail & thorough understanding of Apparel retailer contacts a plus. We offer detail oriented w/ excellent comm & (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Must have knowledge of Photoshop patterns a must. Minimum 5+ years a competitive salary & comprehensive follow up skills. Accessory exp a must. fashionresumes.com and/or Illustrator. exp. Great Pay! Please fax resume: benefits package. For consideration, Competitive salary. Fax 917-351-1238 fashioncareercenter.com Please Fax resume to 212.239.2766 (212)431-3775 Please fax resume to 212.239.2766 Email : [email protected] Changing the skyline and setting the trends This innovative luxury development will boast an unprecedented collection of trend-setting retailers and restaurants as well as The Strip's tallest hotel - the new, luxurious, 50 story Palazzo Hotel. The Shoppes at The Palazzo will complement and enhance The Strip's most visited locations - The Venetian Resort • Hotel • Casino and The Grand Canal Shoppes.

To join the crowd that stands alone, please contact: Lori Pawley - Vice President, Fashion Retailing 312.960.5880 • [email protected]

Lou Silvestri - Executive Director of Leasing 702.414.3549 • [email protected]

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