Flaming Hot Socks PLUS: The men’s sock business has Ones to Watch been going gangbusters on the at Pitti Uomo, heels of fashion styles with a including Isaia. punch of color. Page MW10 Pages MW6 and MW7.

June 13, 2013

PREPPING FOR PITTI Italian Men’s Brands Tropical Tout Their Heritage Exports to U.S. and other markets seen as key to growth. Storm by LUISA ZARGANI MILAN — Men are catching up with women in one of their favorite activities: shopping. Colorful patterns and out-of- According to a Fondazione Altagamma the-box silhouettes are taking and Bain & Company study, men’s spend- ing on luxury goods grew at a faster rate the men’s market by storm for than women’s in 2012 — 12 percent versus spring. Junichi Abe, designer of 10 percent, respectively. As a result, life- style brands have been heavily investing in Tokyo’s Kolor and featured men’s-only concepts, mainly in the U.S. and Asia, in their effort to attract a discerning designer at the and demanding male customer. upcoming Pitti Uomo Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Uomo organizing body Pitti show in Florence, Immagine, said men are increasingly so- epitomizes this phisticated, drawn by quality and more con- temporary designs. “Tailor-made continues trend with his to be in strong demand, as well as more-cre- ative, urban-technical sportswear,” he said. creative tailoring “Men’s wear companies are obliged to inno- and play on vate because what passed the test before is no longer enough.” prints. For more Napoleone said that so far in 2013, figures on the brands to show an increase in exports around the world and a drop in imports from countries such as check out at the China, Romania, Tunisia and India. He point- upcoming show, ed specifically to a 19 percent gain in exports to the U.S. “Markets with a growing GDP are see pages MW4 strong export countries for Italy,” he added, lamenting poor local spending. to MW7. With that as a backdrop, Napoleone said that based on the number of projects, exhibi- tors and preregistrations, the outlook for Pitti Uomo is positive. Many Italian brands will be touting the attributes of Made in Italy man- ufacturing and savoir-faire at the four-day show, which kicks off in Florence on June 18. Umberto Angeloni, ceo of Caruso, touted Italy’s “manufacturing Renaissance,” not- ing how consumers around the world are increasingly “asking about the origin of the product and the nature of the manu- facture. And they want its value and price explained.” Angeloni said that in addition to a Made in Italy label, he urged people to “discover its added value. It’s not only about production, but it’s about the research and development of fabrics and shapes. Production used to be seen as an after- thought — a fixed cost — now it’s one of the strategic factors of success. Made in Italy should not merely be used as a designation of origin. Manufacturing is not merely about making, it’s about creativity.” Angeloni believes the second half of 2013 will be stronger than the first, which has been hurt by concerns over the euro currency. “Orders for fall 2013 are show- ing a single-digit gain compared with fall 2012. This is an important signal as it marks a change in trend,” said Angeloni. “The U.S. and Japan have restarted, and Europe is no longer caught in the vicious Kolor’s mohair and wool circle of the austerity measures of the suit, cotton shirt and past 12 months. Luxury is connected to silk tie. Suede belt. YUKIE MIYAZAKI economic cycles — if GDP growth slows, luxury spending slows.”

PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW14} MEN’S HOSIERY

LEG APPAREL 366 FIFTH AVENUE, SUITE 1008, NEW YORK, NY 10001 212-268-4747 Men’s Week WWD thursday, june 13, 2013 MW3 PEI Rings Bell on 20 Years as Public Firm by JEAN E. PALmIERI commerce — accounted for 9 percent and sportswear or swimwear brands targeted to would be ideal locations so “we can control licensing about 3 percent. the Perry Ellis a more-mature department store shopper and manage it,” Oscar Feldenkreis said. He WHEN GEORGE FELDENKREIs fled label represents one-third of company sales — macy’s, Kohl’s and Dillard’s are PEI’s hopes to open one of these prototype stores Fidel Castro’s Communist regime in Cuba and golfwear is also 30 percent. largest customers. “We wouldn’t be inter- within 18 months or less, he added. in 1961 with his one-year-old son, a preg- Within its existing brands, the plan calls ested in juniors or young men’s, that not Expanding internationally through li- nant wife and $700 in his pocket, he prob- for expanding into additional product cat- our focus. We’ve tried that before and it censed stores throughout Asia, Canada and ably never dreamed that one day he would egories. For example, when it acquired the hasn’t performed well for us.” But active- Latin America is also in the plans. be ringing the closing bell at New York’s Ben Hogan brand, PEI inherited compres- wear and additional golf brands are defi- On the e-commerce front, the plan is to Nasdaq exchange. sion and woven tops, hats, belts, gloves and nitely on the radar. “improve the online capabilities and func- But that’s what happened on Wednesday other apparel products that “can be rep- His father noted that adding to the ac- tions of the Perry Ellis, Original Penguin, C&C when the chairman and chief executive of- licated within our other golf brands,” ac- cessories roster would also be appealing. California, Rafaella and Cubavera e-com- ficer of Perry Ellis International Inc. visited cording to the company’s 10-K. In addition, “We do some accessories in Perry Ellis, merce sites to improve the shopping experi- the exchange to celebrate the company’s but there are big opportuni- ence and attract additional business both do- 20th year as a public company. ties there too,” he said. In fiscal mestically and abroad,” according to the 10-K. shortly after putting down roots in 2013, the U.s. represented 92 “And we don’t do e-commerce in golf, miami, George and his brother, Isaac, percent of total revenues.. so that’s a huge opportunity,” Oscar created a company named supreme Although the company has Feldenkreis said. A site for the golf business International, manufacturing school uni- 86 international licensing is expected to be live by the end of the year, forms and traditional four-pocket Latin agreements and 26 global of- he noted. A Laundry site is also on the agen- guayabera shirts. supreme International fices and distribution centers, da for 2013. went public in 1993 and became Perry Ellis expanding outside the U.s. re- Women’s wear in general has been a International after the acquisition of that mains a priority. learning curve for the company. “When company in 1999. “When we talk about Europe, we bought Rafaella, it was a fabulous hon- From those humble beginnings, the king 95 percent of our business eymoon for the first six months,” he said. of the guayaberas has created a business is in the U.K.,” said George “then it became a challenge. We realized with just shy of $1 billion in sales, 30 owned Feldenkreis. “And we haven’t you can’t adapt a men’s business to wom- and licensed brands, 69 retail stores and a even started selling golf, or Perry en’s wear.” the plan going forward is to ex- foothold in established and emerging coun- Ellis or Perry Ellis America pand the brand from related separates into tries around the world. in Europe yet. We also see op- a broader collection that can open more Feldenkreis is not content to stop there. portunities in Asia.” He said wholesale distribution and potential licens- With his son Oscar, vice chairman, president the company currently has a ing revenue. and chief operating officer, at his side, he joint venture in shanghai for its Under the Laundry umbrella, the sees opportunity for continued growth in the manhattan label and a store for Laundry by Design label allows the compa- future. top categories for expansion include Laundry in Beijing. “And Latin ny to “pursue a better price point with the golfwear, women’s wear and direct-to-con- America is also a big area for us,” customer shopping in different channels of sumer initiatives. he said. distribution from the current Laundry by “the opportunity is still very big to grow Expanding retail is another shelli segal contemporary market.” the

our current brands,” George Feldenkreis john aquino focus. the company currently executives also hope to expand into Perry said. In addition to the flagship Perry Ellis operates 40 Perry Ellis, five Ellis women’s wear as well as women’s golf label, the company owns Jantzen, Laundry Original Penguin and two mul- in the future. Photo by by shelli segal, C&C California, Rafaella, George and Oscar Feldenkreis at the new headquarters. tibrand retail outlets, and three In addition to visiting the Nasdaq, the Cubavera, Ben Hogan, munsingwear, Perry Ellis, two Cubavera and 17 Feldenkreises marked the opening of savane, Original Penguin by munsingwear, “we have expanded our product offerings to Original Penguin full-price retail stores. their new New York headquarters in the Natural Issue, Axist and Farah. include new line extensions, such as Perry “Our long-term vision is to take Penguin Hippodrome building at 1120 Avenue of the Oscar Feldenkreis stressed that although Ellis America, which provides a casual more vertical and less wholesale,” Oscar Americas this week. the company brought PEI has “30 active brands,” 10 of them rep- sportswear complement to the Perry Ellis Feldenkreis said. “We think there’s an op- its offices and showrooms together in just resent 80 percent of the company’s business. Collection offering.” portunity for a 150- to 200-door chain in the less than 100,000 square feet in the build- “so our focus is those brands,” he said. Beyond that, the executives didn’t rule U.s. and Europe.” ing and invited customers and friends to In fiscal 2013, men’s sportswear and swim out more acquisitions. the Feldenkreises envision adding Perry celebrate tuesday night. Among those at accounted for 73 percent of total revenues, “We would be interested in brands that Ellis “showcase” stores in some better malls the event were actress Brooke shields and women’s sportswear was 15 percent, direct- would fit strategically into our portfolio,” around the country. New York or miami, French actor Gilles marini, the face of the to-consumer — comprised of retail and e- Oscar Feldenkreis said. that would be where the company has large operations, Axist brand.

Q1 Profit Slides at Oxford Industries Shiffman Promoted at Calvin Klein

by EVAN CLARK censee. Combined with a good pace of new by ROsEmARY FEItELBERG Inc. senior executives mark Whyman, Lilly Pulitzer store openings, we are looking Karyn Hillman and martha Olson will INVEstmENts IN its growing tommy forward to leveraging a significant increase CALVIN KLEIN INC., a wholly owned be exiting the company in the next Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer brands pushed in our overall retail presence.” subsidiary of PVH Corp., has promoted three months. Each played an important Oxford Industries Inc.’s profits down in the Chubb also said that the troubled Ben steven shiffman to president and chief role leading up to PVH’s acquisition of first quarter. sherman brand is making progress on “cost commercial officer and Cheryl Abel- Warnaco and in the transition that has Profits were flat at Lilly Pulitzer and control as well as on the quality of our as- Hodges to global president of Calvin followed, according to a statement re- down at tommy Bahama while the loss at sortments and distribution. We remain opti- Klein Underwear. leased Wednesday. murry said, “mark, Ben sherman grew, with improvement not mistic that the actions taken will result in A 20-year veteran with the compa- Karyn and martha are all outstanding expected until the year’s second half. tangible improvements in the second half of ny, shiffman now oversees the global executives, and they have been crucial Net earnings fell 24.3 percent to $13.6 mil- fiscal 2013.” commercial operations of the brand partners on the Calvin Klein team as we lion, or 82 cents a share, from $18 million, or Ben sherman’s operating loss in the and continues to have direct oversight transitioned operations of the Warnaco $1.09, a year ago as selling, general and ad- quarter rose to $4.8 million from a loss of the North American Retail, Asia- Calvin Klein businesses to the Calvin ministrative expenses expanded. Even so, of $2.7 million a year ago, while tommy Pacific, Latin American and Global Klein Inc. team. their contribution over earnings per share came in 4 cents ahead of Bahama’s profits fell 16.4 percent, to $21.4 Licensing businesses. He reports to the past few months since we acquired the 78 cents analysts projected. million, and Lanier Clothes’ were off 39.2 tom murry, chief executive officer of Warnaco has been impactful.” sales for the quarter ended may 4 inched percent to $2.5 million. Lilly Pulitzer’s profit Calvin Klein Inc. Kevin Carrigan, global creative di- up 1.4 percent to $234.2 million from $231 was flat at $11 million. Abel-Hodges, who first joined the rector of Calvin Klein platinum label, million. sales at the tommy Bahama busi- For the full year, Oxford continues to proj- corporation in 2006, will drive the stra- Calvin Klein white label, Calvin Klein ness rose 6.6 percent to $150.4 million, while ect earnings of $3 to $3.15, which compares tegic direction for the Calvin Klein Jeans & Calvin Klein Underwear, will sales at the Lilly Pulitzer unit gained 10.7 with adjusted earnings of $2.61 last year. Underwear business, including sales, continue to be the creative head of the percent to $39.4 million and Ben sherman’s Eric Beder, analyst at Brean Capital LLC, merchandising, marketing and planning. company’s jeans business and will liaise sales fell 29.5 percent to $12.2 million. elevated his price target for the stock to $71 she will report to Ken Duane, PVH’s ceo with the wholesale and retail teams to terry Pillow, chief executive officer of from $70. of Heritage Brands and North America ensure product continuity. Bob mazzoli tommy Bahama, noted that the brand’s com- “We remain buyers of [Oxford] and view Wholesale, and to murry. shiffman and continues in his role as chief creative parable sales rose 10 percent, as a rebound the company as one of the few key top- and Abel-Hodges will continue to be based officer of Calvin Klein Underwear, now in April offset weather-related weakness ear- bottom-line expansion stories in the retail- in the New York headquarters. reporting directly to Abel-Hodges. lier in the quarter. ing universe,” he wrote in a research note. the company has had a few sig- In regards to shiffman’s and Abel- thomas C. Chubb 3rd, president and chief “Further, with two value-added, underpen- nificant changes as of late. Last month Hodges’ promotions, murry said, “I am executive officer of Oxford, commented, etrated and premium lifestyle brands in Robert Vignola stepped down as presi- confident that steve will run Calvin “During the quarter we made steady progress tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer, we be- dent of Calvin Klein Collection and glob- Klein’s global commercial operations with respect to tommy Bahama’s Asia-Pacific lieve Oxford Industries is also one of the few al licensing. He was succeeded in that effectively and efficiently, and help us store rollout with the opening of our first two players in the mature apparel sector with the role by John Van Glahn, who was previ- to enjoy continued growth. Cheryl has stores in Japan. In addition, early in the sec- ability to surpass peak operating margins and ously executive vice president of finance a wonderful track record with PVH and ond quarter we expanded our presence in register material bottom-line upside.” and administration at Calvin Klein Inc. we look forward to her leadership over North America with the acquisition of nine — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM three other departures were an- Calvin Klein Underwear, which is a key stores in Canada previously operated by a li- ARNOLD J. KARR nounced Wednesday. Warnaco Group driver of our global business.”

w13b003a.indd 3 6/12/13 4:30 PM 06122013163144 MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 Men’s Week Kolor to Take Center Stage at Pitti Uomo by AMANDA KAISER stand what kind of materials I am Junichi Abe into at the time. And that’s not TOKYO³ Junichi Abe, the de- only with fabrics, but also scraps signer and founder of Japan’s and photos that interest me, and I Kolor, likes to keep a fairly low divide those as well.” profile. The location of his brand’s This season represents a de- atelier along a busy but fairly parture for him as Abe rarely anonymous street in Tokyo’s resi- works with prints. dential neighborhood of Yoyogi “I wanted to do something that is testament to that fact. His flag- was different from what I’ve done ship, tucked inconspicuously into in the past,” said Abe, adding he the basement of a building in the was after a “happy” feeling. “I con- trendy Minami-Aoyama district, is sidered things like Sixties-inspired easy to miss entirely. prints, and I thought it would be in- But the 48-year-old is prepar- teresting and unexpected to use a ing to make a bolder statement Hawaiian print, which I had never this season. As Pitti Immagine Uo- done before, but use it in a way that mo’s guest designer, Abe will take it didn’t feel out of place.” over an athletic field dating back While reluctant to go into de- to the 19th century — today it is tail on the record, Abe allowed used as a futsal pitch — to unveil that he learned a lot about con- his spring collection. His season- ceptual design during his time at al offerings include retro-tinged Comme des Garçons. Hawaiian prints and innovative “I was really influenced by fabrications like double-face or- [working with Watanabe] a lot,” gandie and a nylon with a crinkly he said. “It wasn’t so much about texture resembling paper. Junya Watanabe’s brand. He spent a way of making clothes, but I “It was very unexpected to five years working with Watanabe think he taught me more of a way be invited, and I think it’s a big — during his tenure there, he met of looking at work and a way of chance for people who have never his future wife Chitose Abe, who is looking at design.” seen Kolor before to see it there,” generating her share of buzz these Abe also cited numerous other said Abe, who has staged runway days with her own brand, Sacai. inspirations, such as Yamamoto, shows in Paris for the past three Abe then spent 10 years design- Issey Miyake and Christian Dior’s seasons. “It has big significance to ing a brand called PPCM along work in the Sixties. me, to have the chance to show the with three other creatives, before “There are so many I can’t brand to people who don’t know it launching his own label in 2004. count,” he said, looking at ease in or have never seen it.” Abe, like Watanabe and many cropped pants, a camel cardigan Abe and his nine-year-old other Japanese designers, puts and a jade ombré T-shirt. brand have fostered something a heavy emphasis on fabrics, us- Abe maintains a connection of a cult following in Japan and ing them to germinate concepts to his former employer in busi- certain international circles for for entire collections. Abe uses ness terms as well. The Comme relaxed but detail-rich apparel. mainly Japanese fabrics like cot- des Garçons’ Dover Street Market The designer admits he has lim- tons from Hamamatsu and wools Ginza store carries Kolor on its ited his brand’s retail distribu- from Gifu, both regions located in second floor alongside the work tion purposefully to include only central Japan west of Tokyo. of Abe’s mentor, Watanabe, and certain stores — Maxfield, Biffi “I have a fabric collection that other men’s labels like Visvim and Ron Herman are a few that I’ve been gathering for a long time and Thom Browne. made the cut. The brand’s men’s and I am always adding to it, but Comme des Garçons’ Rei wear sells at about 30 stores before each season I divide that Kawakubo has visited Abe’s ate- around the world and 60 in Ja- between ‘in’ and ‘out’ in order to lier but she stopped short of dis- pan. The company declined to understand my own feeling and pensing advice, Abe recalled. give sales figures. mood at that time,” Abe said, “Basically, her way of think- After graduating from Tokyo’s standing in front of a rough, unfin- ing is that you’re you and I’m me, prestigious Bunka Fashion College, ished wall of concrete in his base- and we’re both people who create YUKIE MIYAZAKI Abe worked as a patternmaker for A look from the ment studio. “And then I do the things,” Abe said. “She doesn’t re- Yohji Yamamoto before moving to spring collection. work of again dividing the ‘in’ pile, ally think of people as being above

Comme des Garçons to help launch and through that I come to under- or below one another.” PHOTOS BY

There’s a slightly MSGM Shows Its Playful Side rebellious mood to the new collection. by ALESSANDRA TURRA cooler than in the past seasons,” Giorgetti also designed skater Giorgetti didn’t indulge in the shoes that are “a bit chunky.” MILAN — Refuting the argument sweet and preppy, but channeled The collection, which is posi- that men’s wear must be boring to a slightly rebellious and grunge- tioned in the contemporary fash- be elegant, MSGM creative direc- very urban “American skate park” ion segment, features retail prices tor Massimo Giorgetti is gearing theme. Giorgetti also cited Larry ranging from 150 euros, or $199 up to affirm the brand’s joyful fash- Clark’s “Ken Park” and Gus Van at current exchange rates, to 180 ion philosophy at the Pitti Uomo Sant’s “Paranoid Park” as impor- euros, or $239, for pants, and 150 men’s international trade show. tant iconographic inspirations for euros, or $199, and 250 euros, or The designer will unveil his spring his collection. $332, for sweatshirts. 2014 collection with a dynamic pre- In line with the main theme, the According to Giorgetti, the men’s sentation at Florence’s Stazione pieces show relaxed silhouettes — business currently represents 20 Leopolda on June 19. outerwear came in deconstructed percent of MSGM’s total revenues. “The challenge is to demon- shapes and the pants were never too “Our goal is to increase it to 30 per- strate that it’s possible to design tight. A look included a suede biker cent by the end of 2013,” he said. men’s wear that can be colorful jacket, worn over a Kurt Cobain-like While MSGM rings in 70 per- and fun, yet very sophisticated and checkered shirt and a signature flo- cent of its women’s sales abroad, chic,” said Giorgetti. ral cotton sweatshirt matched with the men’s line is strongly tied to “The mood is inspired by cotton gabardine maxi shorts. the domestic market, but, “I think the Nineties,” he added, citing A very athletic outfit, remi- that the U.S. might be ready to Brandon Walsh of “Beverly Hills niscent of the California surfer understand the men’s line and 90210” as an important reference style, included a multicolor wind- Japan is already growing thanks for the collection. The good boy breaker with micro-floral details to the partnership with a local dis- who moved from Minnesota to paired with trousers with a con- tributor, as well as Hong Kong and glamorous Beverly Hills with his trasting lateral band. To complete Korea,” Giorgetti said. difficult twin sister Brenda would the look, there were also a raw-cut The MSGM men’s wear line have certainly loved the denim lightweight shirt and a tie-dyed is available in 100 stores world- pants with MSGM’s iconic colle- cotton sweatshirt. wide, including Excelsior in Milan, giate “M” logo embroidered on the Footwear included a revisited Society Club in Monte Carlo, back pocket, which Giorgetti in- Nineties surf sandal, along with Monaco, Mahani in Dubai, Seoul’s cluded in the spring range. canvas sneakers and slippers Koon and Tom Greyhound, H. However, opting for a look with vivid prints. To highlight Lorenzo in Los Angeles, along with “which is less young and much the strong Nineties inspiration, Behaviour and Owen New York. PRESENTING THE MOST INFLUENTIAL BRANDS CFDA NOMINEES: PUBLIC SCHOOL, MICHAEL BASTIAN, TODD SNYDER, BILLY REID

3X1 • 7 For All Mankind • AG Adriano Goldschmeid • Barbour • Bespoken • BLK DNM • Canada Goose • Comune Del Toro • DL • Dr. Martens • Ernest Alexander • Fjallraven • Fred Perry • Gant • Hudson Jeans J Brand • Joe’s Jeans • J.Lindeberg • Lacoste • Levis Made & Crafted • Paige Denim • Simon Miller Raleigh • Robert Graham Collection • Scotch & Soda • Theory • TOMS • Vince • W.R.K and more...

REGISTER NOW: NEW YORK: www.projectshow.com LAS VEGAS: July 21-23, 2013 @projectshow August 19-21, 2013 Pier 94, New York City Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 Men’s Week Brands to Watch at Pitti Uomo

Throughout its collection, Isaia is with the Western world,” Jean said. ISAIA working to inject a “youthful attitude” STELLA JEAN Named “4 Orthodox Dandies,” Stella into its line to attract a younger customer Jean Homme’s first collection is in- Over the course of its 56-year history, — someone Shay said appreciates appar- Model-turned-designer Stella Jean is gear- spired by four imaginative, elegant men Isaia has become well known for its ex- el that is “chic and luxurious yet playful.” ing up to launch her men’s line, called — an Italian, a Burkinabé, a Haitian pertise in tailoring. He also said that, at the company’s Stella Jean Homme, at Pitti and a Cuban — lost in But for spring 2014, the Naples, Italy- booth at Pitti Uomo, Isaia will have 14 man- Uomo with a runway show the streets of Manhattan based luxury label will shine a spotlight nequins on display to give retailers a feel at the Dogana on June 20. in the Sixties and mixes on its expanded sportswear offering. for the highlights of the season. Sales for Last year, Jean started Italian tailoring tradi- “We had a few items before, but not a the line will be handled from the compa- designing some men’s tion with African and fully developed collection,” said James ny’s showrooms in Italy, Japan and the U.S. pieces, which she showed Caribbean elements. Shay, president of Isaia’s U.S. division. Isaia is a third-generation family- with her women’s fall col- In line with her signa- In both the sportswear and tailored owned company whose product is avail- lection, and which caught ture “Wax & Striped philos- clothing range, subtle military references able in the U.S. at Saks Fifth Avenue, the attention of not only ophy,” which she developed are evident for spring. “There are slight Neiman Marcus and Barneys New York, buyers but editors as well. in her women’s collections military influences on the sportswear as well as a variety of independent spe- While shopping in a store combining striped shirt fab- side and in accent clothing,” he said. cialty stores. The company also operates in New York, Italian musi- rics and wax cloths, Jean In sportswear, key pieces include per- a flagship in Milan on Via Pietro Verri. cian Lorenzo Cherubini, designed a lineup with forated suede field jackets with elbow — JEAN E. PALMIERI aka Jovanotti, bumped strong and elegant refer- patches, which will retail for $3,595; slim into some of Jean’s color- ences to the Fifties, shown cargos with military pockets; suede jackets ful pieces and decided in the constructed silhou- with paratrooper patches; a bonded cash- to wear a suit and a shirt ettes, but juiced up by the mere car coat with military pockets, and by the designer in his use of printed fabrics in a quilted silk and cashmere hybrid blazer “Tensione Evolutiva” vivid colors. with a sunglass pocket designed to fit vin- music video, filmed by For example, Jean used tage aviator frames for $2,995. Gabriele Muccino in down- a traditional African fabric, The melton fabric lining the undercol- town Los Angeles. made in Burkina Faso by lars of the suits and sport coats will sport With her men’s wear local factories coordinat- what the company is calling “coral-flage,” debut collection, Jean, ed by the Ethical Fashion its own unique interpretation of a cam- whose mother is Haitian Initiative, a joint agency of ouflage pattern blended with the brand’s and whose father is a jew- the United Nations and the signature Mediterranean red coral logo. elry-maker from Turin, World Trade Organization, “We change the melton every season to Italy, continues her journey for a classic sartorial dou- highlight the inspiration for that sea- through various cultures ble-breasted jacket, which son,” Shay explained. and societies to spread is worn with ankle-length In tailored clothing, single-breast- the positive message that high-waisted pants. For ed two-button suits are still the top different traditions can next summer, Jean de- seller, although a two-roll-to-three peacefully coexist. signed two shirt styles, a is beginning to emerge in sport “It’s important to find classic striped piece and a coats, he said. a balance between different identities, Latin guayabera shirt. Throughout the collec- which mustn’t overlap, aiming to sup- The collection also included pieces tion, color reigns. “There’s port a process of decolonization that will made with Italian cottons, wax fabrics always a strong color story allow formerly oppressed countries to and cloths featuring Caribbean tropical for spring,” he said, pointing find their own language to communicate prints. — ALESSANDRA TURRA to the purple, pink and orange sport shirts and sweaters as well as the brightly hued jackets and sport coats. “It really pops.” In clothing, there are three SAKS FIFTH and South America,” said Cohen, who is main color stories: chocolate brown also expecting to sign up retailers from with lilac or yellow accents; gray AVENUE Europe as well for the launch wholesale with light pink or aqua, and navy with collection. He declined to provide a num- orange or green accents. “We infuse Saks Fifth Avenue is ready to take the plunge. ber on how many stores he would like to color like an eyedropper,” he said of the Four years after it was launched as open for the first season, saying the intent suits that retail for $3,250 to $4,200 and a private label under the Saks Fifth for this first showing is to gauge interest the sport coats, which sell for $2,495 to Avenue Men’s Collection name, the line from international stores. $2,900. has grown to become the retailer’s larg- Ron Frasch, president and chief est-selling men’s wear brand. Now the merchant, has said he views wholesal- company is wholesaling the collection for ing the line as “an opportunity. A lot of the first time and will spotlight it at the great specialty stores around the world  upcoming Pitti Uomo show. have inquired about it. But this is a long- For fall, Saks created three subbrands term initiative for us, and we want to do pictures of American photog- and devoted shops in key markets to its it slowly and meticulously. It’s our name EIDOS rapher William Klein, Ciongoli house brand, offering Black, White and and we can’t afford any missteps.” delivers a lineup strongly Platinum designations for its stores in Cohen agrees, noting that the Saks Isaia is taking the wraps off its influenced by the relaxed the States. It invested in design talent, name “is received well globally,” and the new stand-alone brand, Eidos Roman lifestyle. tapping Kim Herring for the Black and collection is “American design from an Napoli, at Pitti Uomo. All realized with Platinum product and Rhett Bonnett for iconic American brand.” — J.E.P. “The idea behind Eidos luxury fabrics, such as the younger, more modern White label. is to reinterpret the blends of cotton and While the offering in the States is Neapolitan tradition in a linen and wool with more expansive, Richard Cohen, vice casual way for younger linen or silk, suits president of business development for guys,” said Eidos cre- worn with pullovers Saks, said the top-of-the-line Platinum ative director Antonio K. and polo shirts took collection is the only one that will be Ciongoli, pointing to the center stage in the brought to Pitti Uomo. “brother of the Isaia guy” collection, along with “We’re dipping our toe in the water,” as the target customer. raincoats matched he said. “We feel Pitti Uomo is the best Taking advantage of young with casual pants. place to do that, so we’re showcasing it American guys’ renewed inter- Jackets are priced at and we’ll see what people think.” Cohen est in tailoring clothing, Eidos about 895 euros, or $1,188 said he believes there are several offers sophisticated yet com- at current exchange, products that are expected to be the fortable pieces with a “casual overcoats at 1,295 euros, most popular, including the leather elegant” sensibility, explained or $1,719, while shirts bags that have been “created for Ciongoli, who paid homage to and pants retail at about international travel,” as well as Rome with the first collection. 225 euros, or $299, and the suits that are crease-proof Mixing the memories of his 195 euros, or $259, re- and can be rolled up in a suit- own experience in the Italian city, spectively. case and still look fresh upon where the designer attended the Eidos will be distrib- arrival. Shirts with a similar St. Stephen’s School, with sugges- uted to select high-end sensibility are also seen at- tions from Miroslav Sasek’s illus- stores worldwide. tracting attention. trated book, “This Is Rome,” and — A . T. “We think the collection will connect very well in Asia Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 MW7

NATURAL BORN laboration with Lanificio F.lli Cerruti, ADIDAS BY also fill this bag with things designed to Italdesign Giugiaro and the Woolmark help the traveler. I decided this collec- ELEGANCE Co., Natural Born Elegance will also TOM DIXON tion should tell a story — the story of a unveil at Pitti the Car Jacket by Natural week-long trip made up of work and play, Julian Cerruti proves that elegance and Born Elegance with Lanificio Cerruti. British industrial designer Tom Dixon of day and night. The clothes fulfill many style can be inherited. The jacket, available in two styles, one will present the fashion survival kit he functions, and can even be worn inside Vice president of Lanificio F.lli Cerruti with knit sleeves, is inspired by the Parcour, conceived for Adidas at Pitti Uomo. out, so that the traveler doesn’t have to and the son of Nino Cerruti, Julian Cerruti the supercar designed by Italdesign Called “The Capsule,” the unisex carry too much around, yet always has established his own brand, called Natural Giugiaro which will be showcased at the collection includes two different bags, everything in hand.” Born Elegance, in September. Sala Ottogonale of Pitti’s fairgrounds one soft and one hard, both containing Prices of the ready-to-wear range from In January, the label, which originally Fortezza da Basso and which will feature clothes for a week away. Folded in each 110 euros, or $146 at current exchange offered only knitted accessories such as interiors covered with a precious wool fab- case, there are pants, shirts, jackets and rates, for the shorts, to 1,300 euros, or bow ties and ties, branched out into uni- ric produced by the Lanificio F.lli Cerruti. three pairs of shoes — rain boots, city $1,723, for the winter coat, while shoes sex jackets and now, six months later, The limited-edition jacket, which is shoes and a beach style. range from 170 euros, or $225, to 270 Cerruti is gearing up to launch a luxury sold in only 550 black or white pieces, “When designing a product, I always euros, or $358. Accessories are priced be- outerwear range at Pitti. is available in four different fine wools: begin by thinking of myself rather than tween 220 and 350 euros, or $292 and $464. “The concept behind this brand is to Turbo 180,Via Col Vento, Prestige 150 and the customer or the [task]. My main prob- As Dixon highlighted, this collection deliver special and exclusive pieces in IParty. A women’s variation of the Car lem is that I would really like to be well represents only the first step of his col- luxury fabrics which you can pair with Jacket by Natural Born Elegance with organized and prepared, but I’m not,” laboration with Adidas. casual items, such as jeans and sneak- Lanificio Cerruti will also be presented at said Dixon, who once had to sleep on a “What’s nice about Adidas is that they ers,” Cerruti said. Pitti, in the shape of a biker jacket made beach in a Milanese park during design don’t do a flash-in-the-pan, one-trainer- For spring 2014, Cerruti focused on from masculine fabrics. — A . T. week because he had forgotten to book a and-then-it’s-all-over kind of thing,” he two jacket styles, both available in two hotel room in advance. “The [task] was to said. “We’ve signed up for four collec- versions. One is a versatile blazer with a design a bag, but I decided that I should tions, so that’s two years.” — A . T. comfortable fit, which is also sold in a sportier sweater variation. The sec- ond is a contemporary, sophisticat- ed blouson, also available with zips and knitted cuffs for a more casual look or with precious details in the “tuxedo” style. In keeping with Lanificio F.lli Cerruti’s high-end tradition, all the jackets are made from luxu- rious yet innovative fabrics, in- cluding natural fiber blends and cashmeres in a bold, summery color palette. Adding a touch of glamour, Cerruti also included printed materials resembling crocodile and python skins. “With the spring-summer collection, we enlarged the most affordable part of the col- lection,” said Cerruti, adding that retail prices range from 450 euros, or $598 at current exchange rates, to 2,000 euros, or $2,656. As part of a project developed in col-

Retail prices for the “Extreme” collec- Samantha Florence, 28, is engaged to KILLER LOOP tion will range from 199 euros, or $263 at ORLEY Matthew and worked for four years at current exchange rates, to 599 euros, or Helmut Lang in wholesale, rising from a Playlife, controlled by Benetton Group, $790, while the “Performance” range will Having made a colorful splash with their sales assistant position to sales manager. is set to relaunch its sportswear and ac- be sold at between 59 and 229 euros, or $78 vibrant, sophisticated knitwear designs, (Cute fact: Samantha and Matthew first tivewear label Killer Loop at Pitti Uomo. and $302. The “Functional” line will retail the ambitious twentysomething founders met as children at Camp Tamakwa in For spring 2014, Killer Loop, which has between 29 and 149 euros, or $38 and $197. of Orley are broadening their vision Ontario, Canada. The Orleys’ middle- been under the Playlife umbrella since — A . T. into woven shirts, pants and outer- aged uncle, who models sweaters 2010, has focused on the brand’s wear for spring. on their Web site, met his wife at core values to deliver a collection Like their sweaters, knit ties the same camp.) organized in three ranges target- and scarves, the new sportswear Aiming to create knits that ed to different customers. offerings are fashioned from were “elegant and irreverent,” the The “Extreme” segment, high-end Italian fabrics in quirky, trio launched Orley last year. The which includes high-tech eye-catching hues with directional line has so far been picked up by pieces made from the most ad- details — but with a founda- eight influential specialty vanced waterproof, insulated tion of classic, wearable sil- store accounts including and breathable materials, is houettes. There are button- Bergdorf Goodman, Carson addressed to people working up cotton shirts in mint Street Clothiers, Fivestory, outdoors in extreme weather green or vivid blue, while Union in Los Angeles, conditions, including surf pho- a seersucker design mixes Mortar in Houston and tographers, extreme filmmakers gingham sleeves with a United Arrows in Tokyo. and heli-ski pilots. striped body. Linen-blend Knit sweaters and jack- The “Performance” range pants and shorts are cut ets retail for $425 to $855, consists of outerwear pieces with a high-waisted stance woven outerwear for $695 to and pants in waterproof and and pleats, for an accessi- $995, woven shirts for $255 breathable Japanese fabrics, bly fashion-forward look. to $325, knit ties and scarves such as the Toray membranes There is a confidence to for $195 to $315, and pants and Toyota-Tsusho’s Gelanots the Orley attitude that belies and shorts for $375 to $595. functional cloth, to be worn dur- the youth of the New York- Ironically, the Orley ing intense aerobic activities. based company’s founders. founders launched the brand The part of the collection called Brothers Matthew Orley, 27, with knitwear even though it “Functional” includes packable, and Alex Orley, 25, both at- was the category they had the waterproof pieces and wind stop- tended New York University, least expertise in at the time. pers for the everyday life. where the former interned at “We liked knitwear because you According to the company, Thom Browne and the latter in- get to create an original design while the “Extreme” range will terned at Rag & Bone, earning with the fabric, not just the sil- be sold in technical outdoor a promotion to design assistant. houette. Yo u get to make an im- shops and high-end concept Prior to starting Orley, Alex pactful statement with just a few stores, the “Performance” and the took a two-year course in tech- garments,” explained Florence. “Functional” lines will be avail- nical design at Parsons The “Plus, we liked that knits were able at free-ride specialty stores New School for Design, hard to make. There’s a and at Playlife concept stores and finishing early. lot of trial and error.” selected boutiques, respectively. A third founder, — DAVID LIPKE MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 Men’s Week

Etiquette Clothier’s socks. Ralph Lauren Purple Label linen pants.

Paul Smith’s socks. Polo Ralph Lauren linen pants.

Photo by Eli SchMidt Happy Feet Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 MW9

Hot Sox’s socks. Giorgio Armani wool and cotton pants. Bass sl

K. Bell’s socks. Giorgio Armani P Mercedes ssistant:

rayon pants. a

Happy Socks’ socks. Marc Jacobs cotton pants. Fashion ailors; t venue a

inoa at y Martin y B ailoring t KB111 agency; and Jonathan at li e

Models:

There’s a revolution in the sock market, with traditional dark solids being replaced by an explosion of colorful prints, wildly vivid hues and graphic patterns that will infuse life into any formal or informal ensemble. — ALEX BADIA MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 Men’s Week

Super Lite, a thin base layer for the foot that’s Ath-Leisure Socks Drive Sales great for people who like the ‘barefoot’ running ex- by KARYN MONGET seen a change in consumer purchasing it’s acceptable in most work perience. Puma Allsport trends, and we’re seeing more men buy- environments,” he said. styles are designed with A COMBINATION of fashion, color and a ing socks, a category that women have Berger further noted, pops of neon color that variety of styles aimed at different life- traditionally purchased. American men “We design all of our socks coordinate with training styles and activities have been beefing up are expressing themselves through socks, to align with how guys are shoes as well as clothes. the sock business over the past year. and they are saying ‘I wear suits, khakis dressing today...generally, With so many options, The proof is in the numbers: Dollar and jeans, so let me decide how to acces- more casual and with shoes men like to choose the sales of men’s socks grew 12.3 percent to sorize my wardrobe.’ It’s not just about the that are not super delicate. socks that best fit their $2.29 billion in the 12 months main fashion centers like New York, Los There is nothing worse than exercise routine and their ended in March, reported The Angeles and Miami — it’s happening in wearing a thin dress sock with lifestyle,” said Ash. NPD Group Inc./Consumer mainstream America,” said Lipson. the wrong shoe and slipping Viktor Tell, cofounder Tracking Service. Lipson singled out a best- around all day. Our socks are a and creative director of Mack Behind the robust rise in selling terry sock style with bit thicker in weight, have a cush- Stockholm-based Happy Weldon business is a boom in bright a cushioned heel in heath- ioned foot bed, and are a bit lon- Socks, a label licensed exclu- colors and bold patterns in er, khaki and indigo as well ger so they have a shot at staying sively to United Legwear Co. socks, driven by designers as a host of solid colors with up. It’s perfectly fine with a suit in North America, agreed. such as Paul Smith, Richard indigo effects as representing and great with jeans and khakis. “It has now become an ele- James and Etro. There also is an “ath-leisure” look. And while we don’t make them ment of dressing that men an emerging consumer trend “These socks could be for sport, it’s nice to know really pay attention to. It of men wearing the same worn with a dress loafer or ca- they will perform very well is a way to distinguish style of classic, yet trendy- sual loafer, or a pair of trainers if you find yourself in an im- yourself from the others, looking socks with suits, and running shoes....What promptu basketball game or without being too ‘risky.’ casualwear and even active a man wears with a dress spin class,” said Berger. Today, men pay attention apparel. This new breed of suit he now tends to wear Russell J. Klein, president of Emilio Cavallini to their socks because they are medium-, or bridge-weight, with chinos, and he’s having Easton International, the U.S. a great way to make a state- sock is rendered in combed fun with the category,” said distributor for German luxury legwear ment and be a bit more bold than with and heathered yarns for com- Lipson. and sock brand Falke, said the “catego- the rest of their clothing. It is possible to fort and easy wear, and features The crossover effect rization of categories” in the sock busi- be classic, trendy, sporty or casual while a touch of fashion in a palette is also shaping up in the ness reflects a blurring of the lines in wearing an expressive pair of socks.” of solid colors, strategically placed sports arena. other industries such as activewear and Emily Ross, national brand manager fashion shades at the heel or toe, or in a Candace Kaufman, brand sportswear. for Hot Sox, said fashion and design play burst of colorful patterns and prints. manager for the athletic divi- “The world has become very focused a big part in the crossover trend. The popular classification is described sion of Renfro Corp., which manufac- on specialization, and there’s a lot of talk “We have one length of men’s socks, a as “athletic-leisure” by industry execu- tures the licensed Spalding and Fruit about specialty apparel for special ac- trouser length that’s fashion-based with tives, who say more men are buying socks of the Loom sock brands, sized up the tivities. Now men’s socks have become colors and graphics. There are no techni- for themselves because they now consider athletic-leisure trend this way: “For the more specialized and [the same styles] cal or performance callouts. It’s all about socks a key fashion accessory. According last several years, there has been an ab- are being sold for business, casual, per- fashion and design,” explained Ross. to NPD, 55 percent of men bought socks sence of advanced features in dress and formance and fashion,” noted Klein. “We’ve found it’s becoming the number- for themselves in the past 12 months, com- casual socks, and the end-use for them is From a merchandising perspective, one accessory for men and it’s very much pared to around 50 percent the prior year. quite limited. Combined with a sluggish Sheldon Wolff, vice president of sales lifestyle driven. We see it with jeans, Given the booming market, a number economy, consumers naturally seek more for Gold Toe socks at Gildan Activewear and more casual shoes like Converse, of sock and legwear specialists are set- value and versatility from their socks. Inc., described a changing scene on sell- and also with suits. It’s kind of like the ting their sights on new assortments of Dress and casual socks are the most slug- ing floors at department stores. new tie. Men are not buying socks for crossover styles that combine the dress, gish segments of the men’s sock market, “We no longer tell our buyers what this just suits, they’re buying socks for casual casual and active classifications into a while athletic and casual are very strong is — an athletic sock, a casual sock or an wear and weekend wear with loafers.” multipurpose lifestyle sock. compared to last year. With the rise of everyday sock — each [retail] customer The demand for fashionable socks is Jordan Lipson, president and chief color and design choices in athletic and now merchandises socks in different so strong that luxury legwear specialist executive officer of American Essentials casual socks, the consumer is gravitating areas for different lifestyles,” said Wolff. Emilio Cavallini brought back its men’s Inc., whose sock licenses include Calvin to more performance-oriented socks that Meanwhile, socks that combine func- sock collection after a 20-year hiatus, Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Chaps, Reebok, deliver the comfort they desire without tion and fashion have become a signifi- said Lisa Cavallini, president of Mostly and Izod, said the crossover trend began compromising their sense of style.” cant category at K. Bell, a California- Tights LLC, the U.S. unit of the Florence- surfacing after the recession. Kaufman noted that the consumer based sock specialist. based Cavallini company. “In the last three to five years, we’ve shift to multiuse socks now requires sock K. Bell founder Karen Bell, said, “We designers to put as much emphasis on do hear that from our fans through our so- Puma fashion as it does performance features. cial channels that men are looking for ‘easy’ “With Spalding, we designed a sport- dressing as well as multipurpose socks. K. specific sock with all these advanced Bell has several styles that can take men features, but added in that fashion flair from a day at the office, to a quick nine holes with some design and color because we of golf, and grabbing a quick bite afterwards. knew people would wear them beyond the We have fashion sports socks and sporty court,” explained Kaufman. “We also kept casual socks. We are addressing this need in mind that while consumers want that through our unique signature look and feel sport performance sock for casual use, it will continue to grow our men’s business. they may not always want a neon green Sports and athletic-type socks are contribut- to wear with khakis, so we also offered a ing to a larger percentage of sock sales, and black and white and black and gray op- we have added a selection in cotton blends Izod tion for that little bit of fashion flair in the with semi and full cushioning and arch sup- sock they wear every day for comfort. The port that are not sport-specific, but excellent Spalding sock may say ‘basketball sock’ for the active lifestyle.” Izod Socks to Hit on the package, but consumers are wear- Regarding fashion looks, Bell noted, Penney’s This Month ing them just as much off the court “Fortunately, we are seeing a lot of as a replacement for that basic, interest in men’s socks with bold, American Essentials Inc. will launch a casual sock they once used to bright colors and graphics, collection of licensed men’s socks bear- purchase.” so performance socks with a ing the Izod name in mid-June at J.C. Falke Crossover styles also are fashion twist is a popular cat- Penney stores nationwide. trending in e-commerce sales egory.” Jordan Lipson, president and chief at online Web sites such as Isaac E. Ash, presi- executive officer of American Essentials, Mackweldon.com. dent and ceo of United said the line will reflect the iconic, all- Brian Berger, chief executive offi- Legwear Co., singled out American look that Izod is known for. cer and founder of the Mack Weldon the licensed line of Puma “Ideally, it will be aimed at the label of men’s socks and underwear, socks for men as poised Millennial customer, but it will end up described the crossover category as a for growth in the crossover appealing to in a wide range of con- “hot” trend. realm. sumers,” said Lipson. “In many ways, “More men are buying socks for “There are many more the Izod line is a little preppy, young themselves. But I also think more women choices now for men, espe- and colorful. It’s fashion.” are buying more men’s socks too. Since cially in sport socks with Casual crew styles in cotton blends the [crossover] category is so hot right great technical features will be rendered in 15 basic and fash- now the tide is rising all boats. Men, and properties. Our Puma ion colors. Special features will in- however, are more conscious of Allsport line includes clude targeted cushioning for com- fashion and having their own the 360-degree running fort in the heel and toe areas, as well point of view. Socks are a sock with all-around as elasticized grippers for added fit. great low-risk way of compression mesh Prints and patterns will include ar- doing that. There ventilation and strike- gyles, stripes and plaids. are no fit issues, zone cushioning at the Suggested retail will be $7 per pair. you can dial it heel and toe. The Puma — K.M. up or down, and Gold Toe Allsport line also offers LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235 NEW YORK 212.564.4710 KBELLSOCKS.COM

K. BELL IS A DIVISION OF RENFRO CORPORATION

MW14 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 Men’s Week Customers Respond to Artisan Quality

{Continued from page MW1} the demand. Japan, Germany, “Internationally, this will be an- upbeat about the American market, izing its men’s wear assortment, in Equally encouraging, Gian The Netherlands and Italy are other important year in the men’s which accounts for 25 percent of order to focus on a precise brand Giacomo Ferraris, chief executive the firm’s main markets, although luxury arena,” he said, noting that group sales, noting the solid perfor- mix,” said Cardini. “Editing has officer of Versace SpA, said men’s Libani acknowledged a recent the company is paying “increased mance of the brand’s new units on increasingly become a require- wear accounts for more than 40 slowdown in Italy as well. attention to quality, creativity and New York’s Madison Avenue and ment for our customers.” percent of group sales and, despite Libani said he was very pleased artisanal product.” He said he was in Bal Harbour, Fla. Canali will Jason Broderick, general mer- a “cloudy” outlook and “swings” with the performance in the U.S., “very happy with the reawakening open a boutique in Atlanta in the chandise manager of men’s wear in the economy, he expects the where in March 2012, Attolini of the U.S.,” the brand’s largest mar- first quarter of 2014. “We are very for Harrods, said he was “very en- brand’s men’s business to “contin- opened its only global flagship on ket, which accounts for 30 percent focused, this region is destined to couraged by the performance of ue its strong double-digit growth” Madison Avenue. “This unit is pro- of sales, and also noted that busi- grow,” said the executive. our men’s wear business.” Sales in 2013. A sign of the company’s viding results that are beyond our ness in Italy is picking up. “Italy is In terms of trends, Canali have been running at a double-digit belief in the strength of the cat- expectations. In 2013, the store will important in terms of positioning touted the ongoing success of the increase over last year, he said, and egory was the opening at the end generate sales of about $10 million, and taste — yes, sales are slow here brand’s Kei jacket, which is entire- the retailer recently expanded its of April of a standalone men’s turning the U.S. into the brand’s but people are still very elegant.” ly unlined yet maintains a sartorial Men’s International Gallery. “The store at Shanghai’s IFC Mall. This [biggest] market,” Libani revealed. Cucinelli said he sees a return look. “It’s in sync with the general department was built as a versatile is the first prototype for Versace Boglioli ceo Giovanni Mannucci, of the jacket, in innovative fabrics trend, which is veering towards environment to showcase a clear and covers 1,080 square feet. The softer designs,” he said. and concise edit of the best offer- company, which cited accessories, Retailers planning to attend the ing from highly desirable interna- The new Versace including shoes and jewelry, as the Pitti Uomo show are also upbeat and tional designers. The space cur- store in Shanghai. fastest-growing categories, plans to will shop the show to capitalize on rently holds 25 brands across 4,700 roll out additional men’s stores in hot categories such as accessories. square feet, including boutiques Hong Kong and the U.S. Tom Kalenderian, executive from Lanvin, Givenchy, Balmain, Brioni ceo Francesco Pesci vice president and general mer- Moncler, Balenciaga, Vivienne described 2013 as “looking bet- chandise manager of men’s wear at Westwood and the world’s first ter than last year.” Pleased with Barneys New York, said the store Valentino men’s shop-in-shop.” customer feedback to the designs just completed the renovation of Overall, Broderick said, of creative director Brendan the ground-floor men’s accessories Harrods’ men’s customers “are Mullane, tapped last year, Pesci department at its Madison Avenue incredibly savvy and discernible said an increased and “strong” flagship, which underscores the in their shopping habits but will tourist flow in Milan and Rome is strong focus on this category. “This invest more in high value, luxury lifting performance in its home is one of the strongest trends and items. They are increasingly asking country, which continues to see we are excelling with accessories what materials garments are made crimped spending from locals. from designers,” said Kalenderian. from, along with their country of “This is a serious issue and it’s Designer branded footwear is simi- manufacture, in order to gauge the not encouraging. Italians and their larly strong, in particular designer true value of an item.” lifestyle are looked at as a source sneakers, he added. Even if the price is high, cus- of inspiration, and credibility In terms of apparel, Kalenderian tomers will take the plunge if should also come from local use. who joined the company a little or prints — tartan, micro-patterns said, “The most interesting trend is they believe the piece is special. This may become a weakness in more than two months ago, said the and pinstripes — or leather, also more avant-garde than classical Broderick pointed to a brown the long term,” said Pesci. brand is returning to its core prod- worn easily over a T-shirt or denim and there is heightened interest in leather and gold embroidered

To offset the weakness in Italy, ucts: jackets and suits. “Boglioli had pants. Suits are “younger and cap- concepts that emerge from pop and jacket from Balmain, “which was Brioni is buying back its fran- strayed, venturing into total looks, tivating, elegant and sophisticated, music culture.” undoubtedly the hero piece from chised stores in China and expand- for example, but I believe success but not classic, with shorter and He noted a “tremendous reac- the collection,” that the retailer ing in the area, as well as increas- stems from being credible,” he said. slim pants.” The entrepreneur also tion to camouflage and printed purchased for fall. “The jacket ing its reach’’ in the U.S., its main “Men are knowledgeable and dis- pointed to the color palette, based fabrics that will continue for will retail for 16,000 pounds market, with new stores in Costa criminating, they turn to specialists on earth tones, that ranged from spring-summer.” [around $25,000] and its price re- Mesa, Calif., and Chicago. — they don’t rely on one supplier.” brown to chocolate and wood, as Overall, Kalenderian said he flects the couture-level of work- While the Italian market may Mannucci is also very much fo- well as a range of blues, black and will work to find “rare and more manship. Harrods will be the be struggling right now, Pesci be- cused on Italian production, and burgundy. “Never too vivid, they exclusive” merchandise. “There only retailer globally to carry this lieves its history and reputation noted that 95 percent of Boglioli are blended with gray and dusty is a casualness in attitude, which exclusive piece.” will help in the long term. fabrics for spring are exclusive. hues,” he said. is not too relaxed, and a focus on He also pointed to colorful suits special fabrics and beautiful work- from designers such as Alexander manship. This is the moment for McQueen, Gucci, Jil Sander and Made in Italy is the third-most famous brand in interesting and unique artisanal Paul Smith as strong performers. craftsmanship,” he said, adding “As a premium men’s retail desti- the world and it’s associated with superior quality, social that this will work well for Italian nation, we always buy into items respect and dignity of work. and French brands, which also that our clients value greatly.” have “strong suppliers in Italy.” Rosi Biffi, owner of the Biffi and – FRANCESCO PESCI, BRIONI Tiziana Cardini, fashion di- Banner stores in Milan, said that rector of Italy’s high-end La current business is being impacted Rinascente department store, will by the economy and the weather, “Made in Italy is the third-most “Transparency is fundamental for Stefano Canali, general director also be on the hunt for accessories “however, choosing to focus on re- famous brand in the world and it’s customers, who want to be aware of of the family-owned Canali firm, and shoes, which are leading cat- search and a strong attention to the associated with superior quality, what the company is doing,” he said. said May marked a turnaround egories for the company, as well quality-price ratio has allowed us social respect and dignity of work. Boglioli is controlled by Italian pri- with an uptick in business, due to as luxury sportswear, which con- to maintain a positive trend.” Shirts For young luxury customers, this vate equity fund Wise SGR. a “general improv’’ement in con- tinues to show solid performance. with Seventies inspiration and is very important,” said Pesci, not- Despite a slowdown in China, sumer confidence based on politi- La Rinascente’s crown jewel in shoes are among the bestsellers. ing that Brioni is completely pro- brands continue to see the area as cal evolutions, improved financial Milan, overlooking the city’s ca- In all categories, however, duced in its home country. “The one of the most relevant for devel- markets and a return of an opti- thedral, opened a men’s shoe area Biffi said men are increasingly new government should be daring opment. “China is surely crucial mistic mood in Greater China.” earlier this year. “It’s working re- looking for innovative products in making decisions, putting manu- and we continue to invest in re- For example, like-for-like sales ally well, there is an interesting — pieces that are casual chic and facturing activities at the center of tail in the region,” said Cristiano in the brand’s Hong Kong stores and diversified offer, and sneakers offer real quality.” development and focusing on tour- Corneliani, global sales director are up 17 percent, 15 percent in continue to be a hit,” said Cardini. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS ism. Culture for Italy [is like oil] for at the family-owned Corneliani India and 9 percent in Italy. He was La Rinascente has been “rational- FROM ALESSANDRA TURRA Saudi Arabia — it’s not normal not firm, which in April celebrated to invest in it.” Brioni’s parent com- the opening of a store in Shanghai pany Kering is setting aside money with a fashion show and an ex- for distribution, communication travagant event. By the end of this and computer technology for in- year, Corneliani will open 50 stores creased reliability and efficiency in that country, including the first — investments that are reducing unit in Hong Kong, slated to open errors and delays in its special Su in September. That same month, Misura project, among others. the firm will also open a corner in Enrico Libani, ceo of Cesare Selfridges in London. Attolini North America, also touted “We are also seeing positive the artisanal craftsmanship of the signals in the Middle East and company and its 160 Neapolitan the U.S. and a stable market in tailors. Posting 20 percent yearly Europe, where France, Germany growth over the past few years, and the Benelux countries are Libani said the only limiting fac- growing, as well as the former tor is the maximum amount of Soviet Union countries. We don’t pieces — 40 — produced every day. expect strong changes in 2013,” The Corneliani “We are the Bugatti of apparel,” said Corneliani. runway show said Libani, adding that the com- Brunello Cucinelli is also in Shanghai. pany is laboring to keep up with looking overseas for growth.

MW16 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2013 Men’s Week

obituaries Gonzalez Goes It Alone LOnDOn — Alvaro Gonzalez, the spanish brands, and living in Florence for the past accessories designer who has built a 15 years,” said Gonzalez over coffee at the S. Miller Harris, 91 career working for brands including Connaught hotel in London. by ArnOLD J. KArr Manhattan. it pioneered designer licensing Valentino, Loewe, tod’s, Jimmy Choo and Mr Porter has taken on the line exclu- in the market with its long-term relationship most recently stuart Weitzman’s sW1, is sively, and will start selling it later this A MeMOriAL serViCe will be held sunday with Pierre Cardin and fitted shirts through launching a namesake collection. summer, and for spring 2014, Gonzalez for s. Miller Harris, former head of eagle its Courage collection. reflecting Harris’ Alvaro is a small men’s collection of said he will be looking to expand to other shirtmakers, who died in hospice care at his sense of humor, Courage was advertised by calf leather sandals with straps dip-dyed retail outlets. His Web site, alvarogonza- home in spinnerstown, Pa., on June 9 after a ad guru Howard Luck Gossage as a shirt most in a palette that includes eggplant, deep lez.co, is live. brief illness. He was 91. men didn’t “have the stomach for.” sea blue and dark green. there are also Prices for the calf sandals start at 225 Although born into the men’s shirt business today, the eagle brand is owned by PVH Corp. leather belts and crocodile eyewear cases pounds, or $349, while slim calf belts cost — his great-grandfather, Jacob Miller, started Describing Harris as “a man with a great in similarly rich shades, made in work- 195 pounds, or $302. Crocodile eyewear eagle in 1867 — and known as an enthusias- sense of style and a great sense of humor,” shops around Florence. cases and belts are 395 pounds, or $612. tic pursuer of the latest in piece goods and Grethel recalled his seemingly endless quest Gonzalez, who is based in London All figures have been converted from the collar treatments, Harris had an intellectual for new fabric ideas and the difficulty he had and Florence, said the collection was British pound at current exchange. bent and considerable writing skill. He was passing up a good-looking swatch. “He loved born from pieces he regularly has made Gonzalez, formerly design director of editor of the Cornell Daily sun prior to his fabric, sometimes to his detriment,” Grethel for himself — especially the sandals, accessories at Jimmy Choo, said he is also graduation from Cornell University and entry said. “He had someone at the company whose which he admits to wearing nonstop be- mulling the launch of a women’s collec- into the U.s. Army in 1943. His social circle at main job was selling off excess piece goods. He tween the end of May and the beginning tion. And with everything, the aim is lon- Cornell included author Kurt Vonnegut. looked at every european line known to man.” of september. gevity. “With time, i want all of the pieces Pressed to reconcile his dual affections for His affection for the shirt business was a “i’ve always been spoiled, surrounded to get nicer and nicer, like an old cash- the written word and the cut-and-sewn shirt, he constant in his life and he was involved in sev- by the best factories and working with mere jumper.” — saManTHa ConTi once told a Daily news record reporter, “i’m not eral ventures after leaving eagle, including a frustrated writer. i’m a fulfilled shirtmaker.” associations with smart shirts and Viyella. Harris’ 70-year marriage to the former According to his son, s. Miller Harris Jr., Mary Louise snellenburg was an outgrowth known as Mickey, he launched a new business of a buyer-seller relationship. Harris’ fam- under his great-grandfather’s name, Jacob ily sold shirts to snellenburg’s, a depart- Miller shirts, at the age of 90 and was still ac- ment store fixture on Market street in tive in it until the recent decline in his health. Philadelphia prior to its closure in 1962. in addition to his widow, Mary Louise, and Although eagle was sold to Hat Corp. of son, he is survived by three daughters, Jill America and later Damon Creations and Palm Harris, susan Laun and Prue Gershman; 10 Beach Clothing, Harris stayed on as its chief grandchildren, and two great-grandchildren. executive officer and gained a reputation as A memorial service will be held at the among the more innovative merchandisers Flourtown, Pa., home of his son at 2 p.m. on in the men’s furnishings market. Working sunday. in keeping with the deceased’s wish- with high-profile merchants including Henry es, interment will be private. the family has Grethel, Barry Boonshaft and Alan Flusser, requested that contributions in his memory eagle was influential in a business dominated be made to Cornell University’s Class of 1943 by “the Big three” — Arrow, Van Heusen and scholarship Fund.bv Jerry Bernstein, 83 Jerry Bernstein, a longtime buying- in 1987, Bernstein sold his business to office executive who founded his own firm, the Doneger Group and became executive Footwear by Alvaro Gonzalez. died Monday of a cerebral hemorrhage at vice president of that firm. Later, he and his south nassau Communities Hospital in wife, known as Mimi, along with his youngest Oceanside, n.y. He was 83. daughter Karen and son-in-law Ken richter, Bernstein was born in Brooklyn, son of launched a store called Mieka, which grew Hilda and Abraham Bernstein, and went to into six stores in Florida and Long island. samuel J. tilden High school — where he won Bernstein, an avid golfer, was active in char- Bangladesh Amendment Sought all-city honors in football for playing both of- itable endeavors and was honored frequently fense and defense — then Brooklyn College, by a number of organizations, among them the by Kristi eLLis many of which don’t have fire escapes before serving in the U.s. Army as a demoli- Joel Finkelstein Cancer Foundation, the Anti- or potable water. As a huge purchaser tions expert in Germany during the Korean Defamation League of B’nai B’rith, yeshiva WAsHinGtOn — two House Democrats of garments, the U.s. military should War. He married the former Miriam yellin on University and the AABC school for Blind and are seeking to have a vote on an amend- not be complicit in putting the lives of a weekend leave, a union retarded Children. ment to a Department of Defense spending Bangladesh’s workers in grave danger. that would last for 61 years. “On his very cluttered bill that would require all apparel made even the clothing sold to our servicemen Bernstein started his career Jerry desk, he had a piece of in Bangladesh and sold at military base and women, some bearing the proud in fashion at the depart- Bernstein paper under glass, a pic- stores, known as exchanges, to comply with word Marines, should reflect the val- ment store russek’s. next, with his ture of a sailboat moored a binding, enforceable accord on building ues they are bravely protecting. i urge he went to work at the buy- wife Mimi in a harbor with its sail and fire safety in Bangladesh. my colleagues on both sides of the aisle ing office Advance, then be- wrapped up,” said Jeffrey. reps. George Miller (D., Calif.) and to pass this amendment, which would came a coat-and-suit buyer “the caption was, ‘if you’re Jan schakowsky (D., ill.) offered the make a difference in the lives of gar- for the Van Buren buying not making waves, you’re amendment on Wednesday. the law- ment workers and improve conditions in office, where he remained standing still,’ and that’s the makers said a number of garments and Bangladesh’s garment factories.” for a number of years before way he led his life. He was a documents bearing Marine insignias the pressure is mounting on retail- becoming apparel merchan- mover and a shaker, but he were found in the rubble of the tazreen ers and brands in the wake of tazreen dise manager for the May was humble and giving.” Fashion fire in november that killed and the rana Plaza building collapse in Department stores’ new “He was very vibrant, 112 garment workers. they said public April that claimed the lives of 1,129 gar- york buying office, where very urbane, very full of life, data indicates that the Army-Air Force ment workers. he spent 18 months. “He and very sharp and funny,” exchange imported 124,000 pounds of li- the two lawmakers are urging compa- had his own vision of what said Linda sherman, presi- censed garments last year from several nies such as Wal-Mart stores inc. and Gap should be done, and found dent of J’envie, a longtime garment factories in Bangladesh. inc. to sign on to a legally binding accord, the best vehicle for execut- friend. “He always knew the While licensed and branded goods sold led by the industriALL Global Union, ing that vision,” said his son right trend. When my father at military base stores can be made any- that over 40 mainly european retailers Jeffrey, who is a lawyer. “He passed away two years ago, i where in the world, all military uniforms and brands have signed. three American was a leader, not a follower.” found two dollar bills signed procured must be made in the U.s. companies — PVH Corp., Abercrombie in 1968, Jerry Bernstein by Jerry Bernstein wishing “Workers that manufacture clothing & Fitch Co. and sean John — have went into business with my father good luck. He had embossed with our nation’s military slo- signed that accord. A coalition of north veteran Harry Hausen, creating the buying of- kept those bills his entire life.i n the mid-seven- gans and insignias shouldn’t have to face American retailers and brands, led by fice Hausen Bernstein. in 1969, he told WWD, ties, my father operated a very large company that blocked fire exits and threats of being Wal-Mart and Gap, are formulating their “We’re in an era of big business now. even the went out of business, and Jerry was really instru- fired for refusing to work in unsafe con- own safety plan, citing legal liabilities in small merchant has to think big to survive and mental in giving him business, because he knew ditions, Miller said. “Likewise, clothing the industriALL accord. be profitable. it’s our role in this industry to be he made a great product, and he gave my father a licensed and sold in military exchanges the amendment would require mili- the rabbits for our stores so we can outstrip the second chance.” Her father, eli Goldstein, found- owned by the Department of Defense are tary exchanges that sell their own brand- turtles — the big guys.” ed J’envie in 1978, and nows herman carries the made in conditions that uphold our na- ed garments that are made in Bangladesh After Hausen retired in 1975, Bernstein good-luck dollars in her wallet. tion’s core values and internationally rec- to join or “abide by” the conditions of the renamed the firm Jerry Bernstein inc. Among Bernstein is survived by his wife, Mimi; his ognized labor standards.” inudstriALL-led accord. it would also his clients were the specialty stores ruth three children, Bonnie, Jeffrey and Karen, and schakowsky said, “it is not only un- require military exchanges that license Meyers in nichols Hills, Okla.; Point of View seven grandchildren. in lieu of flowers, dona- just but inhumane that garment work- apparel for their own stores to give pref- in shaker Heights, Ohio; nobbson in Fort tions can be sent to the Jewish national Fund. ers barely make ends meet and are sub- erence to vendors that have signed the le- Wayne, ind., and Handmoor in Chicago. — Lorna KosKi jected to working in unsafe buildings, gally binding accord.

w13b016a;7.indd 16 6/12/13 4:36 PM 06122013163644 Created byTheWoolmark Company, The Wool isaseasonalguidetothebestwoolfabrics Lab “The Woolmark symbol is a regisTered Trade mark of The Woolmark Company” autumn accessed forfreeatvarioustradeshowsorviaAppandpersonally presenteduponrequest. The Woolmark Companypresents TheWool LabAutumn Winter 2014.15at retailers, manufacturersandallfashiontextileprofessionals. TheWool canbe Lab and yarnsintheworld.Auniqueinspirationalsourcing toolforbrands,designers, Fortezza daBasso, Central Building,Ground FloorAisleB Fortezza daBasso, Central Building,MainEntranceHall Pitti Immagine Uomo, Florence, 18-21June2013 Pitti ImmagineFilati, Florence, 3-5July2013 www.thewoollab.com |[email protected]

winter 2014.15 MW18 WWD thursday, june 13, 2013 Men’s Week

Pattinson recently completed filmingDavid Michôd’s “The Rover” in Australia opposite Guy Pearce. Following his appearance in MeMo pad David Cronenberg’s “Cosmopolis” last year, he is due on the Canadian filmmaker’s set for the PICKING PATTINSON: Parfums Romain Gavras — the man behind forthcoming “Maps to the Stars.” Christian Dior confirmed M.I.A.’s “Born Free” video — According to Dior, Pattinson Wednesday that English actor shot the Pattinson campaigns, is also slated to appear opposite Robert Pattinson is the new face Dior said, noting they are to be Carey Mulligan in the forthcoming of its Dior Homme fragrance. seen only in Europe, except the “Hold on to Me,” directed by The “Twilight” heartthrob joins U.K., and Asia, excluding China James Marsh. — MILES SOCHA and Japan. According to Dior, the print PICTURE SHOW: Prada is campaign will break from Sept. strengthening its ties with the 1 in a range of magazine titles movie world. The Milan-based for women and men, along with fashion label has tapped Christoph daily newspapers. Waltz, Ben Whishaw and Ezra Miller The television commercial, to appear in its men’s wear shot largely in New York, is campaign for fall. Laurence Wasser in the Cerruti 1881 campaign. to debut the same month in Referencing the irreverent 60-second and 80-second lengths. atmosphere of new-wave cinema in the Sixties, the three actors were In the spots, Wasser plays a photographed by David Sims in a character right out of Italian minimal setting decorated with the art films, exuding an elegant geometric and colorful furniture nonchalance. The campaign is designed by OMA for Knoll for slated to break in the next issue Prada’s fall runway show. of L’Uomo Vogue. — M.S. As on a movie set, Waltz, Whishaw and Miller play TOLLMAN TO BE REMEMBERED: A different roles. Waltz embodies private memorial service will be a sophisticated elegant man, held for Annabel Tollman Friday Whishaw a laid-back sort, while at 2 p.m. at Grace Church in Miller’s allure is mysterious. Manhattan. Family and friends — ALESSANDRA TURRA of the British stylist, who called New York home, will then gather Robert pattinson WHO’S THAT GUY?: Cerruti 1881’s for a reception at The Four an illustrious list of celebrity new artistic director Aldo Maria Seasons restaurant. Tollman ambassadors for Dior beauty Camillo selected little-known died Thursday in her downtown products, that includes Charlize Belgian musician Laurence apartment. In lieu of flowers, the Theron, Natalie Portman, Eva Herzigova Wasser to appear in the French family has asked that donations and Alain Delon. Model Jamie Dornan brand’s fall advertising. American be made to Millie Mittoo and actor Jude Law have also photographer Jeff Burton returned Children’s Projects, a London- fronted Dior Homme scents. for a second season, selected based organization that helps American photographer for his nonconventional and orphaned children. Nan Goldin and French director Christoph Waltz for prada. cinematic approach to images. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

Man of THE WEEK Xi Jinping: C+ IT’S ABOUT THE The president of the People’s Republic of China, who was in California to discuss international relations with President Obama, might be cracking down on ostentatious RELATIONSHIP. spending on fashion and luxury goods by government officials, but he needs to trade his off-the-rack suit for Milberg Factors is an entrepreneurial, family-run f rm that takes the time to learn about your business and to build a deep relationship with your company. We’ve a better-fitting made-to-measure garment. got a 75-year track record of working personally with clients, at every level of our f rm, to provide services in credit protection, working-capital f nancing, and accounts receivable management, bookkeeping and collections. Elvis has left the building but his The choice to not Where others may follow rigid procedures, we focus on crafting individualized hair is apparently wear a tie and leave solutions that work for you and help you reach your goals. So give Milberg Factors still in China. the collar open helps mitigate the double a call! Let’s talk things through. chin and slenderize his neck. Anything wrong that can happen to a blazer is With such a basic happening here. ensemble, having one The extremely inch of a French cuff droopy shoulder shirt showing would does nothing to add a much-needed empower him continental touch. and the length of the jacket makes the six- footer look short. The pants are oversize and the drop crotch exaggerates the navy is the right inappropriate choice. But how proportion of the about a pocket jacket and the square or a lapel pin overall ensemble. Milberg Factors, Inc. — anything to shift the focus away from A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE Catholic high school uniform territory. Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 The wide leg makes Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 his feet look small and no man wants Ernie White, SVP, Winston-Salem 336.714.8852 to have small feet. www.milbergfactors.com ©2013 Milberg Factors, Inc. photo by JEWEL SAMAD/AFp/GEttyphoto by IMAGES

w13b018a.indd 18 6/12/13 4:06 PM 06122013160708 Photo : G. Defaix Inspired by the artwork of Daniele Buetti, with his kind authorization Inspired

New York - 22-23 July 2013 - Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Bldg - premierevision-newyork.com Paris - 17-19 September 2013 - Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France - premierevision.com

NEW YORK _ SÃO PAULO _ PARIS _ MOSCOW _ SHANGHAI

PREMIEREvision_WWD_273x375_GB.indd 1 06/06/13 12:45 212-391-4143 [email protected] www.breadandboxers.com