Fabric – Woven Fabrics WOVEN FABRICS Fabrics are made of yarns by weaving them in different combinations. It is mostly done by interlacing two sets of yarn or thread made of fibers called the warp and weft of the loom. It only stretches in the bias directions, between the warp and weft directions, unless the threads are elastic. Lengthwise stronger vertical yarns with more twist are Warp or Picks while widthwise filling yarns are termed as weft or ends. Sidewise edge of fabric is termed as Selvedge. THREE BASIC WEAVES There are three main types of weave: Plain, Twill and Satin Plain weave is a basic weave which is made when the thread is woven on one up and one down principle, some plain weave fabrics are Chambray, Chiffon, Gingham, and Organza etc. Twill weave is made when the thread is placed by varying the order of interlacing the yarns so that diagonal parallel lines are produced across the fabric. Satin Weave is a weave made when each warp yarn floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with fifth filling yarn. Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave Fabric – Weft Knit Fabrics Knitted Fabrics Knitting is the process of construction of a fabric by interlocking loops of yarn by means of hooked needles. Knitted fabric consists of horizontal rows known as courses and vertical columns of loops known as Wales. Knitted fabrics are porous having insulated air pockets giving warmth when worn. Knitted fabrics are very absorbent, wrinkle resistant and lightweight. They shrink more than woven fabrics unless shrink- proofing techniques are used. Weft knit structures Weft Knit fabric consists of horizontal parallel courses of yarn generally characterized by the structural threads being perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric. These are produced in either tubular or flat form; usually elastic & highly drapable. Some weft Knit stitch knitted fabrics are Circular Knit, Flat Knit, and Hosiery Knit. Whatever their structure, all knit fabrics are composed of three basic stitches: Knit & Purl, Tuck and Miss (float or non knit) which are foundation of all weft knitted structures. Plain or Purl Knit Stitch can be produced in flat knit, tubular, or circular forms. Basic knit stitch is a plain stitch while Purl is basically reverse of a basic plain knit stitch. This plain flat knit is also called jersey stitch. Knit stitch (technical face) is a V- shaped appearance where the shanks are above and the feet are below the head of preceding stitch. Purl stitch (the technical back) is of the semi circle appearance where the legs are below, and the feet are above the head of preceding stitch. The loops form vertical rows, also called Wales, on the fabric face, giving it a sheen, and crosswise rows, also called courses on the back. Tuck stitch Tuck stitch, is a knit stitch which creates an open space in the fabric. It is made when Purl stitch a needle rises to take a new loop without casting the old. It consists of a held loop and a tuck loop both of which are intermeshed in the same course. A tuck loop always faces the technical back of the knitted structure. Missed stitch Missed- stitch or Float stitch is so called as it produces a float of yarn on the fabric's wrong side. Also termed as a miss stitch as it is a length of yarn not received by a needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not adjacent wales. Tuck stitch Missed stitch Fabric – Warp Knit Fabrics WARP KNIT Can be defined when structural threads of fabric running along the length of fabric approximately parallel to selvedge. One horizontal row of loops is made from many threads. It is not easy to unravel like weft knit. Not as elastic as weft knits. Some examples of warp knitted fabrics are Tricot and Raschel, Warp knit structures The six fundamental stitches in warp knitting are Tricot Knit, Milanese Knit, Simplex Knit, Raschel Knit, and Ketten Raschel Knit, and Crochet Knit. 1. TRICOT KNIT fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant and has good drapability. Tricot knits are used for a wide variety of fabric weights and designs. Some tricot fabrics are lingerie, loungewear, sleepwear, blouses, shirts, dresses, slacks etc. 2. MILANESE KNIT produces a fabric very similar to tricot. It can be identified by the fine rib on the face and a diagonal pattern on the back. Milanese fabric is superior to tricot in smoothness, elasticity, regularity of structure, split and tear resistance. 3. SIMPLEX KNIT fabric is made of fine yarn and is relatively dense and thick. It is a small part of warp knit production. Simplex fabric is used to make gloves, handbags, and sportswear and slip covers. 4. RASCHEL KNIT is done with heavy yarns and has an intricate lace-like pattern. It makes varieties of products like veiling, laces, power nets and carpets etc. 5. KETTEN RASCHEL KNIT is also known as the chain raschel. The fabric is finer, has a better hand, superior elasticity and cover. 6. CROCHET KNIT is hand knit crochet. It is made when thread used chains upon itself and cross links are formed with previously formed chain to generate fabric. This construction is used in a wide variety of fabrics ranging from nets and laces to bedspreads and carpets. Fabric Type Stretch-ability Baby Rib Excellent 2X1 Rib Excellent Loop Terry Excellent Fleece Poor Interlock Poor Thermal Waffle Excellent Fine Jersey Good Melange Jersey Good Spandex Jersey Good Thick Knit Jersey Good Sheer Jersey Very Good Stretch-ability of common Knitted fabrics Fabric – Non-Woven Fabric NON WOVEN FABRIC (Bonded or Laminated) is a fabric like material made from long fibers, bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile industry to denote fabrics, such as felt which are neither woven nor knitted. Non woven fabric materials typically lack strength unless reinforced by a backing. Non woven are typically made by putting small fibers together in the form of a sheet or web and then binding them either mechanically with an adhesive or thermally by applying binder. Structure of Non woven material Common uses of Non Woven fabrics Industry End uses Agriculture Seed strip, green house cover etc. Apparel Interfacing, fusible, bra padding, gloves, shoulder pads etc. Automotive Battery separator, Carpet backing, insulation etc. Civil Engineering Road covering, landfill under liner etc. Construction Roofing and tile industry, insulation etc. Home Furnishing Quilt, mattress, window shade etc. Household Wipes, glove liner, vacuum cleaner bag, dust cloth, placement Industrial Filter, abrasive, cable insulation, lab coat etc. Healthcare Surgical gown, bandage, dental bib, headrest, bedding under pad etc. Personal care Diaper, sanitary napkin, cosmetic applicator etc. Miscellaneous Mailing envelop liner, kites etc. Fabrics – Fabric Manufacturing Fabric manufacturing Preparatory process - making of Yarn Weaving or Knitting process (ascending order) Fabrics – Fabric Processing and Manufacturing Finishing process of Textiles Aesthatic-Improved Appearance Functional-Improved Performance Calendering Antiseptic Falling Antistatic Mercerization Crease Resistant Napping and Sueding Durable press Plisse Flame resistant Shearing Mothproofed Softening Shrinkage control Stiffning Soil release, waterproof, stain resistant Oven Wrinkle free Various fabric processes affecting textile finished Stages of dyeing Features and advantages Limitations and disadvantages Typical dyed fabrics Most costly dyeing method; longer lead Stock and top Fabrics are soft heather like color; Cheviot, covert, time; high wastage of material until final dyed highest level of penetration Melton, tweed finishing of fabric Second most costly dyeing method; long Gingham, brocade, Used to make fabrics with stripes, Yarn dyed lead time but still shorter than stock dyed jacquard knits, plaids and multi colored patterns fabric chambray Least costly dyeing process; Broadcloth, satin, Piece dyed adaptable to most knitted or Only solid color can be produced corduroy, drill, canvas woven fabrics; shorter lead times Closest to fashion season; Woven shirts, t- shirts, High wastage of garment due to wear and Garment dyed shortest lead times; elimination skirts, shorts, sweaters, tear during dyeing process of raw material wastage hosiery Comparison of dyeing in various stages Fabric – Fabric Characteristics and Properties Natural Man Made/ Cellulosic Man Made/Non Cellulosic Properties Cotton Flax Wool Silk Acetate Viscose/Rayon Acrylic Nylon Polyester Spandex Abrasion Resistance Good Fair Fair Fair Poor Fair Fair Excellent Good Good Absorbency 8.50% 12% 13.50% 11% 6.50% 11% 1.50% 2.8-4.8% 0.40% 15% Flexibility Fair Poor Good Excellent Excellent Good Good Good Fair Good % Elongation at Break 3.0-10 3 20-40 20 25-45 15-30 35-45 16-75 19-55 400-700 % Recovery 75 65 99 90 48-65 95 92 82-100 81 99 Environment Mildew Resistance Poor Fair Good Good Excellent Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Renovation(Wash / W or Dryclean) DC W or DC DC W or DC DC W or DC W or DC W or DC W or DC W or DC Safe Ironing Limit (F) 400 450 300 300 325 350 300 350 325 300 Sunlight Resistance Fair Good Good Poor Good Fair Excellent Poor Good Fair Handfeel Good Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Good Fair Fair Poor Pilling Resistance Good Good Fair Good Good Good Fair Poor Very Poor Excellent Resiliency Poor Poor Good Fair Fair Poor Good Good Excellent Excellent Specific Gravity 1.54 1.52 1.32 1.3 1.32 1.48-1.54 1.14-1.19 1.14 1.38 1.21 Static Resistance Good Good Fair Fair Fair Good Poor Poor Very Poor Excellent Very Dry Strengh Good Excellent Poor Good Poor Poor-Good Fair Excellent Excellent Poor Strengh Loss when wet 10% 10% 20% 15% 30% 30-50% 20% 10% 0 0 Thermoplastic No No No No Yes No No Yes Yes Yes Properties of major textile fibers and fabrics Fabric – Common Construction & Conversion SOME IMPORTANT CONVERSIONS Meter to yard X 1.0936 yards Yard to meter X 0.9144 meter Inch to centimeter X 2.54 centimeter Yard to inches X 36 inch Square yard to square meter X 0.836 sq.