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KREMER JOHNSON PHOTOGRAPHY THE SPICE OF Chefs like Brian Huskey (pictured) are blending flavors from around the world to create dishes that are spicier and more flavorful than ever before. ast year, a batch of hybrid of new culinary options. Only in recent further popularize exotic spices and the chili peppers called Carolina years, however, has the obsession with dishes that harness their heat. Padrón Reapers, grown by South heat reached a fever pitch. Tory McPhail, executive chef at New LCarolina-based Ed Currie, were Orleans’ Commander’s Palace—and deemed the world’s hottest by Guinness Drawn to the Flame 2013 James Beard Award winner of the World Records. While the average jala- “People seek out heat in their food title of Best Chef in the South—suggests peno registers anywhere between 2,500 much like we seek out adrenaline rushes that society’s growing affinity for spicy and 5,000 Scoville heat units (the Scoville in life and play,” Montage Deer Valley foods is the result of both fashion and scale being the measuring stick of the spicy Executive Chef Shawn Armstrong says fitness. “Through modern media, the heat of peppers), the Carolina Reaper of the public’s growing interest in fiery hipness of ethnic cuisines has made them topped out at more than 1.5 million. dishes. “[It] reminds us that we’re alive, more popular than ever,” he explains. Modern fascination with locating and there’s something rudimentary and “As people continue to eat more health- the spiciest ingredients and foods isn’t exhilarating about the experience that ily, using more seasonings and spices in exactly a novel concept. Dating back keeps us coming back for more.” traditional foods means that you’re not Aji amarillo to antiquity, spice routes spread from While reality TV series including the missing out on great flavor.” Southeast Asia all the way to Europe Travel Channel’s “Man v. Food” and the But for many, a love of spicy dishes has and North Africa; Greco-Romans pio- Cooking Channel’s “Heat Seekers” con- less to do with current trends than nos- neered journeys to India to find pepper tinue to fuel the public’s appetite for the talgia. Certain flavors have the power to and ginger; and legendary explorers hottest in culinary concoctions, more transport diners back to a favorite dish such as Christopher Columbus, Vasco and more chefs seem to be flexing their from an exotic destination. And, for those da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan all creative muscles in an attempt to bring who grew up as descendants of immi- sailed in search of spices. While spicy the heat in the kitchen. Celebrity chefs grants, the scent of a certain spice can foods have been integral to many coun- such as Emeril Lagasse, Jean-Georges bring back fond memories of childhood. tries’ dishes throughout the centuries, Vongerichten (whose Thai-influenced Such is the case for Korean-American Carolina Temperatures rise as chefs and diners seek out the ingredients the late 20th century brought profound restaurant, Vong, famously used more chef Brian Huskey, a “Top Chef” contes- Reaper developments in technology (namely the than 150 herbs and spices) and Nobu tant who works in research and develop- that set dishes and taste buds ablaze. Internet) and entertainment (film, cable Matsuhisa (who often fuses Japanese ment for the Los Angeles-based Zarate BY BRET LOVE television) that helped open American and Peruvian elements of cooking) have Restaurants. “When I was growing up, eyes—and palates—up to a wide world blazed culinary trails and helped to my mother cooked a lot for my brothers 66 67 MONTAGE | SUMMER 2014 MONTAGE | SUMMER 2014 HOT COUPLINGS With more than 15 years of sommelier experience, Montage Laguna Beach Beverage Manager Troy Smith is an expert on matching foods with wines that complement their fla- vors. He acknowledges the unique challenges that accompany pairing wines with spicy dishes, avoiding varietals with high levels of alcohol or tannin. Instead, he recommends wines with high acidity, soft textures or residual sugars. He suggests the following pairings: “Thai dishes such as ‘tom yum’ [a hot and sour soup] have a spicy, sweet and sour intensity, which makes them a natural match for riesling, specifically from the Mosel in Germany. The sweet flavors of green apple, peach and apple blossom help to balance the dish’s spice beau- tifully, while the razor’s-edge acidity mirrors the sourness in the soup.” “Sommeliers often recommend Champagne with spicy foods, but Vietti’s Moscato d’Asti from Piedmont, Italy, is even more suited to the task. With its low alcohol, gentle effervescence and irresistibly floral, peachy nose, this wine is a great counterpoint to the earthy heat of Cajun spices in jambalaya.” “Zinfandel’s inherently higher alcohol would seem to eliminate it as a candidate for pairing went ballistic at the thought of a shortage, people with spicy food. But when matched with the right dish, it can be brilliant. T-Vine Cellars’ zinfan- posted bottles of the beloved topping for sale on del from the Black Sears vineyards on Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain is archetypal California eBay at sky-high prices, and ABC News even ran zinfandel, with a brooding, jammy intensity that stands up nicely to spicy lamb and tomato a story asking, “Is this the Sriracha apocalypse?” ragu with fresh ricotta and mint over pasta.” Tom yum soup pairs well with riesling. There’s a thin line that divides fandom from fanaticism, but the situation served to illus- trate just how passionate people are about their BRANDON FLINT favorite foods. Still, culinary experts insist that of heat. “Pork vindaloo was introduced to India is as a complement to the traditional Peruvian Clockwise from top left: Cardamom Hill’s pork vindaloo; Korean chili powder; papaya salad; Sriracha another boundary—between dishes that chal- around 1510 by Portuguese sailors, who used red- ceviche sauce, “leche de tigre,” or tiger’s milk. lenge the taste buds and those that overwhelm wine vinegar and garlic as a preservation agent “By blending aji amarillo, onion, celery, garlic, and I,” he says. “ ‘Gochugaru,’ or Korean chili them—is one to navigate carefully. for meat on seafaring travels,” she explains. “The ginger, lime juice and fish trimmings, a flavorful “People seek out heat in their food powder, was almost always used as heat in my “Each person’s palate is incredibly subjective,” Kerala version I grew up with is less fiery but has ceviche sauce is created,” he explains. “It’s simple, much like we seek out adrenaline mother’s food including spicy fermented cabbage, says Asha Gomez, a 2013 James Beard Awards a beautiful balance of flavors: smoky, tangy, with spicy and unique. And since the ceviche sauce is soups and marinades. Once you smelled garlic and semifinalist and owner of Atlanta’s Cardamom a tinge of sweetness accenting buttery chunks of blended, it creates a nice, refreshing experience.” rushes in life and play. [It] gochugaru together cooking in oil, you knew it was Hill restaurant, which fuses south Indian culinary slow-cooked pork shoulder. The heat comes from The U.S. has also earned its place in the spice reminds us that we’re alive, and the start of something ridiculously tasty.” traditions with the cuisine of the American South. garlic and vinegar teasing out the pungent flavors conversation, not only for the country’s uniquely “Some just want just a hint of pungency; others of black pepper, cinnamon and cloves.” diverse culinary offerings but also for a region there’s something rudimentary and Fuel to the Fire want the spices to linger and play on their palate, Also a lover of Asian food, Armstrong has known for its ability to take the heat: the South. exhilarating about the experience that Regardless of the reasons behind society’s foodie while others like to have their taste buds shocked. mastered the art of balancing heat and other Straddling the intersections of many different cul- fascination with spice, the mainstream love affair I strive for balance—I like bold flavors without flavors at Montage Deer Valley. With 10 years tures, Southern cooking has long been at the fore- keeps us coming back for more.” with dishes that sizzle definitely seems to be grow- overwhelming the main ingredient of the dish.” of professional experience at high-profile dining front of the movement to spice up the American —Shawn Armstrong ing more serious. Toward the close of 2013, the The menu at Cardamom Hill is sprinkled with venues in Asia, the chef was even named Global palate. Commander’s Palace, now more than a city of Irwindale, Calif., sued Huy Fong Foods, the spicy options that reflect Gomez’s Kerala heri- Chef of the Year by Singapore’s premier culinary century old, serves shrimp and tasso Henican, maker of Sriracha hot sauce—a move that resulted tage. Pork vindaloo is a staple of the appetizer academy, At-Sunrice. His love of heat followed a dinner favorite that incorporates a five-pepper in a public outcry. Devotees of the spicy sauce list and remains one of the chef’s favorite uses him back to the U.S., where he regularly pre- jelly. “Shrimp and tasso Henican is not only an pares one of Thailand’s traditional spicy plates amazing dish, it’s also the first dish I learned to at home. prepare when I started at Commander’s Palace “I spent a good amount of my career in when I was 19,” McPhail explains. “The dish Singapore and had the opportunity to visit features spice prominently, but the spice really Thailand on a few occasions,” he says.

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