ITINERARY n.33 NOT ON MAP 9 10 11 13 15

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The Blue Baths, 1933

1901 City Guide: 1 Princes Arch Gateway Architecture seems to be a big city activity. It is, of course, possible to think of exceptions - Mario Arawa Street Botta in the mountain resort town of Lugano, Peter Zumthor beavering away in the tiny Swiss village of Haldenstein, or more close at hand, John Scott seeming to pluck inspired designs from the coastal air of Haumoana – but almost every significant architect is associated with a particular metropolis, and much of what we assume is important about architectural culture seems to rely on metropolitan densities of wealth and sophistication. Even here in decidedly un-metropolitan , the big cities seem to predominate. A scan of the list of NZIA National Awards reveals the dominance of Christchurch, Wellington, and (particularly) Auckland; places like Gisborne, Russell, or Levin rarely make the list. It is hard to know whether this is because of a lack of architectural ambition among small town architects, or because their important opportunities are usually snaffled by big city design firms; Aucklanders often complain about Aussies jetting in to snatch plum commissions, but seem not to hesitate at getting on a plane to Queenstown or Paraparaumu to pick up projects. Rotorua is one of the many provincial cities in New Zealand where civic architecture has largely been created by those that don’t live there. In Rotorua, this was exaggerated by the peculiar role outside authorities, particularly the central government, have played in its development – it was unique in the Commonwealth in being a government-controlled town. Early European visitors encountered a geothermal and scenic wonderland - the spectacular Pink and White Terraces on , mud pools, geysers and hot springs with healing qualities. Sensing the area’s potential as a tourist destination – the vision was for a spa resort in a grand European manner -the government acquired land adjacent to Originally built in honour of the 1901 visit of the Duke the Ngati Whakaue village at Ohinemutu in the 1880s. Land in the new town was offered for lease to the and Duchess of Cornwall public, and spa facilities were quickly developed in the Sanatorium Reserves (the area that is now the and York (who later became Government Gardens). The destruction of the Pink and White Terraces with the eruption of 1886 didn’t King George V and Queen dampen the tourist trade, and by 1907 there were at least 25 hotels and boarding houses in the area, with Mary I), this totara structure the grand, Tudor style Bath House opening the following year. was intended as a stylized The vision didn’t quite eventuate; the notion of the waters as a miraculous cure-all was officially debunked representation of a Crown. by the middle of the century, and the Bath House closed in 1966. Rotorua’s waters, however, have The spectacle was enhanced continued to attract tourists for their recreational rather than curative benefits, and the region’s cultural by illumination with electric and natural amenities have ensured that the city remained a tourist hotspot. lights, electricity having only In 1962, Rotorua reached a population of 20,000 and was declared a city. During the post-war years just become available in the farming and forestry industries were developing significantly in the surrounding districts, and like city. Portions of the Gateway, many New Zealand cities, Rotorua experienced a building boom. The city was no longer government now HPT Category 2 listed, were moved after the visit controlled, but it became a centre for government administration with numerous government departments to its present location to establishing regional headquarters in high-modern office blocks. serve as the entrance to the Generating considerable architectural production, the two activities of tourism and administration set Government Gardens. the architectural character of the city. Rotorua has been home to talented architects, the work of several Head across the road to of whom is included in this guide, but is an architectural paradox: a city that developed because of the take a look at the HPT-listed unique natural assets of its particular location, but both its architecture and the architects that created it Princes Gate Hotel, originally always seem to be looking to much bigger places elsewhere. Andrew Barrie & Julia Gatley built in 1897.

ReferenceReference as: as: Andrew Andrew Barrie Barrie and and Julia Julia Gatley, Gatley, “City “City Guide: Guide: Rotorua”, Rotorua”, Itinerary Itinerary No. No. 33, 33, Block: Block: The The Broadsheet Broadsheet of of the the Auckland Auckland Branch Branch of ofthe the New New Zealand Zealand Institute Institute of of Architects, Architects, No. No. 7, 7, 2010. 2010. 2 1918 3 1908 4 1914 5 1940 St Faith’s Church The Bath House Post Office Rotorua Civic Theatre 1 Tunohupu St., Ohinemutu Government Gardens 34 Arawa Street 1170 Fenton Street Edward La Trobe Hill W. J. Trigg & B. S. Corlett. John Campbell Edmund Anscombe & Assocs

Subject of a thousand postcards, the Anglican church An early Government- At the time this building was of St. Faith’s sits on the edge sponsored tourism initiative, produced, Anscombe was of the lake in the Maori village The Bath House opened in Another favourite of postcard one of the county’s leading of Ohinemutu. The Edward La 1908. Designed to evoke the printers, the two floors and architects, running offices in Trobe Hill-designed Tudor-style atmosphere of a European tower of this building are Dunedin, Wellington and the building replaced an earlier spa, the complex was built in clad in rough cast cement Hawkes Bay. He had produced one built in 1885. Inside the an Elizabethan half-timbered plaster with decorative Tudor such designs as the Classical- church is richly decorated with style and is regarded by timberwork. It was designed style Sarjeant Art Gallery in carvings, tukutuku panels, and many as the most impressive by John Campbell, who is now Wanganui and the moderne a window overlooking the lake Elizabethan Revival building in best known as the winner of Centennial Exhibition in showing a Maori Christ who the country. The spa facilities the 1911 competition for the Wellington (1939-1940), but this seems to be walking on water. have now moved elsewhere design of Parliament Buildings project is an eclectic mixture The adjacent Tamatekapua on the site (try the Polynesian in Wellington. Now occupied of Stripped Classical and meeting house is worth a look Spa!), and the HPT Category by the Department of Labour, Spanish Mission elements. In – it reopened in 1943, but many 1-listed building now houses the building is HPT Category addition to the theatre, concert of its carvings may be much the Rotorua Museum of Art 2 listed. chamber and supper room, older. & History. The Government Campbell also designed the the building originally housed La Trobe Hill also designed Gardens contain a number Queen Anne-style Government the library, municipal offices the Rotorua Soldiers’ Institute of other architectural treats: Tourist Bureau (1903) at the and museum. It has now been (1918) at 1133 Hinemaru the Tea Pavilion (1903), the other end of the block, the two significantly extended, creating Street, his own house (1927) pagoda-roofed Croquet buildings now being connected some intriguing inside-outside at 1282 Hinemoa Street, and Pavilion (1907), and J.T. Mair’s by the Tourism Information inversions. Glenholme, 63 Miller Street Spanish Mission-style Blue Centre erected in 1993 by The building is HPT Category (1900). Baths (1933). Auckland firm Creative Spaces. 1 listed.

6 1940 7 1958-1962 8 1962 9 1965 Police Station Government Building Gov’t Life Insurance Building Timber Research Building Cnr Haupapa & Tutanekai Sts 1127 Haupapa Street 1115 Haupapa Street Sala Street Government Architect’s Office Government Architect’s Office Porter & Martin Ministry of Works (J. Newnham)

Due to its importance as a This building was produced tourist hub, Rotorua was George Porter had served for a John Newnham is best known by John T. Mair during his time administered directly by the time in the Ministry of Works , as the designer of the New as Government Architect. One central government for much and his Wellington-based firm Zealand Pavilion at Expo 70, of the building’s most unusual of its early history, and a of Porter & Martin was involved Osaka. Common to the Japan features was the plaster-cast strong government presence in a great many civic and town and Rotorua buildings was frieze of Maori motifs – this was remained. In the 1960s and planning projects. As well as the imperative to demonstrate locally made – that runs around 1970s, Rotorua was one of this, the firm produced at least the different ways in which the outside of the building. the fast developing parts of four other Government Life both native and exotic timbers It’s heavy-duty stuff – the the country, as the economic buildings – New Plymouth, could be used. Here, timber reinforced concrete structure is power of the forestry and Palmerston North, Masterton, posts and beams were given clad in brick veneer to produce farming industries in the central and Lower Hutt. Another architectural expression. exterior walls that are 18 inches expanded. New significant building in the In addition, sixteen glue- thick. The building served as facilities were developed Government Precinct is the laminated parabolic arches police station until 1969, when in Rotorua to serve as a Maori Land Court (1963) at originally circled an entry the Police moved to a more regional administrative centre 1143 Haupapa Street - still in rotunda, complemented purely modern edifice (by F for government agencies, original condition (complete internally by ‘ornamental’ wall G Sheppard, Government the Government Building with James Turkington mural). linings and radiating floor Architect) in Fenton Street – it - designed during F. Gordon It was produced by the boards. Unfortunately the is now the Pig & Whistle Pub Wilson’s reign as Government Government Architect’s Office, rotunda has been demolished, (open 11.30am ’til late, seven Architect - being the first. the project overseen by District and the best remaining element days a week). Now much altered. Architect Frank Anderson. is a substantial spiral staircase. 10 1965-76 11 1976-81 12 1985 13 2006 McKillop Girls College Rainbow Springs Rotorua Civic Centre Te Puia Kahu Street Road 1061 Haupapa Street Hemo Road James Hackshaw Roger Walker Warren & Mahoney Creative Spaces

This tourist facility won an James Hackshaw was one NZIA Regional Award in 2007. of the key members of The The citation read: “A new Group, and so produced interpretation on Maori heritage numerous innovative residential and the experiential learning projects through the 1950s. In the late 1970s Walker of visitors to Rotorua, Te Puia Following his 1958 departure worked on two high-profile Warren & Mahoney received is a stunning journey through from the firm, much of his tourist facilities - at Waitomo this commission as the result cultural and architectural forms. work came from the Catholic Caves (now destroyed) and of a competition in which, Te Puia is a taonga for the Church, and he produced here at Rainbow Springs. After according to Sir Miles, one of present and future, and numerous churches and designing the Kiwi House his spectacular (and detailed) demonstrates e kitea iho an ate schools, although these in 1976, he completed the watercolours may have been haere o nga take mai ra ano ki buildings closely followed souvenir shop and offices the clinching factor. tenei wa, a, tae noa kit e wa kei the tectonic principles and (1977) and the tearooms and Internally, all of the Council te heke mai. (visible evidence loose, informal planning restaurant (1981). functions have been arranged of the continuity between he had established in his Walker fans might also head around an elongated, skylit, past, present and future.) It is residential work. Hackshaw over to Whakatane Airport triple-height atrium, intended an inspired cultural complex, masterplanned this school, and (1974), one of his best (and to create legibility and develop well executed and presented, its most noteworthy element is best preserved) designs for a sense of the Council as an sensitive to place, time and the chapel designed in 1976. a public building and winner integrated whole. those who work in and who The school was amalgamated of an NZIA Local Enduring The project won an NZIA pass through this experience. with the adjacent boys’ school Architecture Award in 2003. National Award in 1986. … Words can not describe in 1987, and is now co-ed John Walker also designed Solitaire See NZ Local Govt. March this special place - it has to be Paul College. Lodge on Lake Tarawera. 1986. experienced.”

14 2007 15 2008 Other addresses: Sources: Energy Events Centre Lockwood Gullwing Westpac Bank (1937) All photographs are by Andrew Government Gardens 55 Fairy Springs Road 1251 Tutanekai Street Barrie or Julia Gatley. Boon Goldsmith Bhaskar Strachan Group Architects Charles Towle Towel is known to Aucklanders The most comprehensive as the architect of the source on Rotorua’s civic competition-winning but never- architecture is the Rotorua finished Holy Trinity Cathedral Central Area Built Heritage in Parnell. Study prepared in 2007 for the Rotorua District Council South British Insurance by Matthews and Matthews Building (1958) Architects. Many of Rotorua’s 1272 Fenton Street key buildings, particularly those M. K. Draffin in the Government Gardens, Now occupied by Family Start. have been listed by the Historic The sunshades are not original. Places Trust – information on these buildings is available Lee Brothers Building (1958) on the HPT’s online register: In a very 21st century attempt 1181 Eruera Street www.historic.org.nz. Many at the modernist dream of Alleman Land Newnham & of these buildings are also The project, which sits behind making high-quality design Verrall part of the city’s very well the 1908 Baths building on available to the masses, SGA See Home & Building Oct.1960. developed tourist trail, and so the lake shore, received produced a series of designs are well described in the tourist an NZIA Local Award and that make environmental and NZI Building (1964) literature – try to pick up a copy a Resene Colour Award sustainable design readily 1246-1250 Fenton Street of the RDC’s Cultural Heritage in 2008. The citation read: accessible. The Gullwing show Gummer Ford Hoadley Budge Trail pamphlet from the “Respecting the sensitive site home is the first from this & Gummer Tourist Information Office. The and multiple cultural issues, EcoSmart Series to be built. Somewhat altered. Gummer buildings in the Government this complex provides well Its design adapts Lockwood’s et al also designed the State Precinct are included in Julia organised large event spaces solid wood construction while Insurance Offices (1963) at Gatley’s Long Live the Modern with a high degree of flexibility incorporating classic SGA 1192 Hinemoa Street. (Auckland: Auckland University and appropriate scale. A elements such as carefully Press, 2008). mixture of contemporary and positioned thermal mass, the traditional cultural images are outdoor room, and the planted St James Theatre (1965) interwoven with a rich texture entry courtyard. See Home NZ 1126-1138 Tutanekai Street of modern building materials Aug./Sept. 2008. Rigby.Mullan & Associates that humanise the extensive The house stands in Now occupied by Destiny spaces. … The use of Maori Lockwood’s national show Church. symbolism throughout the home village, open 10am building is offset against a to 4pm, 7 days a week. The St Lukes Church (1974-75, colour palette that is carefully village also includes Pete 1981) blended by a very competent Bossley’s dynamic Canopy 1223 Amohia Street team.” show home. Deacon Stock Architects Maori Land Court, 1963