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New Zealand's North Island 5

New Zealand's North Island 5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

New Zealand’s (Te Ika-a-Māui)

Bay of Islands & Northland (p129)

Auckland (p60)

Rotorua & the Coromandel Peninsula & (p302) the (p180) The East Taupo & the (p345) Ruapehu (p270)

Taranaki & (p233) Region (p380)

Peter Dragicevich, Brett Atkinson, Anita Isalska, Sofia Levin PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ...... 60 Puketi & Omahuta the North Island...... 4 Forests...... 163 Auckland...... 66 The Far North...... 164 North Island’s Top 15 . . . 8 Islands. . . . 104 Matauri & Bays. . . . 164 Need to Know...... 18 Rangitoto & Whangaroa Harbour . . . . 164 What’s New...... 20 Motutapu Islands. . . . . 105 Doubtless Bay...... 166 If You Like ...... 21 ...... 105 Rotoroa Island ...... 112 Karikari Peninsula. . . . . 167 Month by Month. . . . . 24 . . . 112 & Itineraries ...... 27 Ninety Mile Beach. . . . . 168 ...... 113 Getting Around...... 32 ...... 170 . . . . 113 Ahipara...... 171 Hiking on West Auckland ...... 118 the North Island. . . . . 34 ...... 172 Titirangi...... 119 Skiing, Cycling Kohukohu ...... 172 Karekare ...... 119 & Scary Stuff ...... 42 Horeke & Around. . . . . 173 Piha...... 120 Eat & Drink Rawene ...... 174 Like a Local...... 49 Te Henga (Bethells Beach)...... 121 Opononi & Omapere. . . . 174 Travel with Children. . . . 53 Kumeu & Around. . . . . 121 Waiotemarama & Waimamaku ...... 176 at a Glance. . . . 56 Muriwai Beach ...... 122 Kauri Coast...... 176 & Around. . . . 122 ...... 176 ELLEN RYAN/LONELY PLANET © North Auckland. . . . . 123 Trounson Kauri Park. . . . 177 Shakespear Regional Park. . . 123 Baylys Beach ...... 177 Orewa...... 123 ...... 178 Waiwera...... 124 Matakohe...... 179 Puhoi ...... 124 Mahurangi & Scandrett COROMANDEL Regional Parks...... 125 PENINSULA & Warkworth...... 125 THE WAIKATO. . . . 180 ...... 126 . . . 184 Leigh...... 127 Miranda...... 184 REDWOODS TREEWALK & Thames ...... 186 (P313) Thames to NORTHLAND. . . . . 129 Coromandel Town . . . . . 188 . . . . 136 Coromandel Town . . . . . 189 ELLEN RYAN/LONELY PLANET © Mangawhai ...... 136 Far North Coromandel. . . . 192 Waipu & . . . . 138 Coromandel Town Whangarei...... 139 to ...... 193 Whangarei Heads. . . . . 144 Whitianga...... 194 Coast...... 145 Coroglen Bay of Islands...... 146 & Whenuakite...... 196 Russell...... 150 Hahei ...... 197 , Waitangi Hot Water Beach . . . . . 198 & Haruru...... 154 & . . . . . 199 Urupukapuka Island . . . . . 159 Opoutere...... 200 ART DECO NAPIER Kawakawa...... 159 Whangamata...... 200 (P366) ...... 160 & . . . . 202 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Karangahake Gorge. . . . . 204 . . .. 291 ...... 204 National Park Village. . . . 295 Today ...... 418 Waikato ...... 205 ...... 298 History...... 420 Te Aroha...... 205 Waiouru...... 301 Environment...... 430 ...... 208 ...... 209 & THE Māori Culture...... 435 BAY OF PLENTY. . . 302 Cambridge...... 209 The Arts...... 442 Hamilton ...... 211 Rotorua ...... 306 Raglan ...... 217 Rotorua Lakes...... 319 South of Raglan...... 221 Bay of Plenty...... 324 ...... 222 Katikati...... 324 Tauranga ...... 326 ...... 222 Kawhia...... 223 Mt Maunganui...... 332 ...... 224 Papamoa...... 336 Caves...... 225 Whakatane ...... 336 South from Waitomo Ohope...... 341 to ...... 229 Opotiki...... 343 SURVIVAL ...... 229 GUIDE THE EAST COAST. . . . 345 Pio Pio, & . . . . 230 ...... 231 East Cape...... 350 Directory A-Z...... 448 Pacific Coast Hwy . . . . . 350 Owhango...... 232 Transport...... 459 Gisborne ...... 353 TARANAKI & South of Gisborne. . . . . 361 Language...... 465 WHANGANUI . . . . 233 ...... 361 Index...... 471 New ...... 238 Hawke’s Bay ...... 364 Map Legend...... 479 Mt Taranaki & Around. . . . 246 & Around ...... 364 . . . 247 Napier ...... 366 Inglewood ...... 249 Hastings & Around. . . . . 373 Stratford ...... 249 Cape Kidnappers...... 378 Forgotten World Hwy. . . . 250 Central Hawke’s Bay. . . . 378 Surf Highway 45. . . . . 250 Kaweka & Ruahine Ranges. . . . 379 Oakura...... 251 Okato & Around...... 251 WELLINGTON Opunake...... 252 REGION...... 380 Hawera...... 253 Wellington...... 386 SPECIAL Whanganui...... 254 ...... 408 FEATURES Whanganui ...... 409 Getting Around...... 32 National Park...... 260 Paekakariki...... 409 . . . . 265 Skiing, Cycling & ...... 409 Scary Stuff...... 42 TAUPO & THE ...... 410 Auckland’s Beaches. . . . 64 RUAPEHU REGION. . . . 270 The ...... 411 Hiking in Tongariro & Around. . . . 411 Region. . . . 276 National Park...... 274 Greytown...... 412 Taupo...... 276 Māori Culture...... 435 ...... 287 Martinborough...... 413 Ruapehu Region. . . . . 291 Cape Palliser...... 416 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 27

Itineraries

Auckland #• #• Hahei

É

É East Cape Raglan #• Whakatane #• É Rotorua #• Waitomo Caves #• É #• Gisborne

New Plymouth #• É

#•Napier S O U T H PA C I F I C

O C E A N

É É

WELLINGTON #_ #• Martinborough

2 WEEKS A Grand Circuit

Tracing a broad circuit around most of the North Island, this is an ideal route for travellers with time on their hands. Kick off by exploring bustling Auckland before heading the long way around the Co- romandel Peninsula, via Thames and Coromandel Town, to the legendary beach town of Hahei. Spend a day kayaking, visiting Cathedral Cove and digging a natural spa pool at nearby Hot Water Beach. Continue south to Rotorua, the most dramatic of NZ’s geothermal hot spots. Stop for the night at laid-back Whakatane before taking the winding coastal road right around iso- lated East Cape to beachy Gisborne. At Napier, pause to admire the art-deco architecture and acclaimed Hawke’s Bay wineries. More wine awaits in Martinborough, a short hop from the nation’s vibrant capital, Wellington. After two nights in the capital, head north and then branch out west towards Whan- ganui and , a charming regional city with a brilliant art gallery, in the shad- ow of majestic Mt Taranaki. As you near the end of your North Island odyssey, take comfort that you’ve saved some highlights till last: the glowworm-lit magnificence of the Waitomo Caves and the chilled-out little surf town of Raglan. 28

Cape Reinga

•# É

Ninety É Mile Beach Doubtless Bay

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •#

Bay Ahipara •# É of É Islands S O U T H Hokianga •# Harbour Poor P A C I F I C

•# Knights O C E A N Opononi É Islands Waipoua #÷ •# Tutukaka Forest

É It i nerar Tasman

Sea É i es

É

Waiheke Island Auckland •#

10 DAYS Auckland & the North

If you’re travelling in summer and fancy an unhurried beach holiday, this one’s for you. Spend three days in Auckland, exploring its volcanoes, beaches, bars and eateries, and taking day trips to Waiheke Island and the west-coast beaches. Hit the highway and head north to sleepy Tutukaka for a day’s diving around the . Continue on to the Bay of Islands for a dose of Māori and colonial history, and the timeless charm of pretty coves and coastal scenery. Stay for at least two nights and spend at least one day cruising between the islands. Drop by Doubtless Bay for another lazy beach day and to feast on fish and chips on the wharf at Mangonui. The following morning, take a long, leisurely drive up to Cape Reinga at the very tip of the country – the most sacred site in traditional Māori spiritu- ality. Venture south, skirting the windswept expanses of Ninety Mile Beach, before hitting Ahipara. Continue south via the Hokianga Harbour and stop for the night at Opononi. Allow yourself time to pay homage to the majestic trees of the Waipoua Forest before commencing the long, scenic drive back to Auckland. 29

Auckland #•

É

É TRIP YOUR PLAN #• Rotorua

Tasman Sea

Lake #• Taupo Taupo É ÷# Tongariro National Park

S O U T H It

PA C I F I C i nerar

O C E A N É i es

Paekakariki Beach Ù# #_ WELLINGTON

1 WEEK Central Highlights

This itinerary offers a short, sharp blast down the middle of the island, taking in NZ’s two main cities and other highlights along the way. After a couple of days in energetic and cosmopolitan Auckland, take a slow drive south, dropping in to briefly explore Hamilton and Cambridge en route to Rotorua. At your destination the classic combo of bubbling thermal activity and vibrant Māori cul- ture awaits, and you can ease any travel aches with a lengthy soak in a hot spring. Continue south to Taupo for jetboating thrills or the more relaxed appeal of trout fishing. If you’re feeling brave, bungy jump from 47m above the . Follow the coves of Lake Taupo’s picturesque eastern shore to Tongariro National Park, where there’s good winter skiing, and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, judged one of the world’s best one-day walks. Stop in at the National Army Museum at Waiouru and at the beach in Paekakariki before pushing on to Wellington. The nation’s cute little capital has more than enough museums, galleries, bars and cafes to amuse you for a couple of days, and a good live- music scene to blast away the cobwebs at night.

30

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ES I NERAR I T I

e# 0 100 km Off the Beaten Track 0 60 miles

Cape Reinga Great OLD RUSSELL ROAD Exhibition Aupouri Bay Meander to the Bay of Islands by way Peninsula Karikari Peninsula Cavalli of this less-travelled back road. Along Islands the way, stop to explore remote Kaitaia SOUTH •# Aroha PACIFIC beaches and scenic reserves. (p148) Tauroa Kerikeri Island Cape OCEAN Peninsula •# Brett Russell•# •# #• Opononi•# OLD RUSSEL ROAD

•#Whangarei KAIMAI FOREST PARK •#Dargaville Tasman Little This 75km-long, forest-wreathed Sea Barrier Great Island Barrier mountain range provides a wild POUTO Island backdrop to the Bay of Plenty, •# POINT #• •#Warkworth separating it from the fertile plains of Kaipara Coromandel Harbour Peninsula the Waikato. (p326) Mercury Helensville•# Islands •#Coromandel Town Auckland•# •# POUTO POINT Whitianga

Explore the dune lakes and lonely Ramarama•# •#Thames lighthouse on the remote spit that Bay of forms the northern head of the Plenty . (p179) KAIMAI MAMAKU •#Huntly #÷ Whakaari FOREST PARK (White Cape Hicks Hamilton •#Mt Maunganui Island) Runaway Bay Raglan#• #• Tauranga•# •# #• East Cape Urawhitiki Te Kaha Lake Whakatane PUREORA FOREST PARK Point #• #• Rotorua #•Opotiki Rotorua #• Hike to the summits of Mt Pureora •# Waitomo #• and Mt Titiraupenga, or cycle the Te Urewera Ngarupupu Caves National two-day Timber Trail through the Point Mt Titiraupenga The vast mountainous wilderness of R Park •# regenerating forest. (p232) R Te Urewera is the mist-shrouded PUREORA Mt Pureora LAKE SUGAR LOAF #÷ #• home of the Tuhoe people. This ISLANDS FOREST PARK Taupo WAIKAREITI Lake #• secluded#• lake is reached by an hour’s Taupo SUGAR LOAF ISLANDS MARINE PARK LAKE #÷ walk through dense native bush from #• #• New ROTOKURA #• WHIRINAKI MARINE PARK Plymouth Wairoa . (p363) Mt Ngauruhoe TE PUA-A-TĀNE #• Take a guided kayak trip or boat tour Mt Taranaki R Cape R(Mt Egmont) CONSERVATION PARK to these rugged islets off New Egmont •# R Mahia Stratford Lake Peninsula •# Mt Ruapehu Hawke Plymouth, home to 10,000 sea birds Opunake Bay #•Waiouru Napier and a colony of NZ fur seals. (p242) Hawera•# #• Cape WHIRINAKI #• Kidnappers TE PUA-A-TĀNE Hastings Whanganui CONSERVATION PARK LAKE ROTOKURA •# #• Hike through podocarp forest to Hidden within the southern fringes of Tasman Sea remote canyons, waterfalls, streams #•Dannevirke SOUTH and lookouts, or tackle the 16km Palmerston•# #•Woodville PACIFIC mountain bike track. (p322) kilometre-long walk lined with ancient OCEAN North beech trees. (p300) Cape •#Levin Turnagain CASTLEPOINT RIMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL Kapiti Island While it’s easily reached by windy It might start at , Marlborough Upper #• CASTLEPOINT Sounds country roads, few travellers make it but this three-day ride traverses #• Hutt to this obscure stretch of Wairarapa isolated hill country before landing at #• Lake •#Picton #_ Wairarapa coast. Take time to enjoy the beach the little-visited western end of WELLINGTON #• and hike to the lighthouse and a vast Palliser Bay. (p411) RIMUTAKA Palliser limestone cave. (p412)

Bay CYCLE TRAIL

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN NERAR I T I ES I 31 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 469

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

take them to the depths of Queenstown’s basement WRITER THANKS bars. Gracias to Robyn Columbus Pester for a host of Peter Dragicevich information, and the myriad business operators who Hitting the road in my home country is always a answered my many queries along the journey. To my special treat, especially as it provides the opportu- greatest gifts – Kiri and Cooper – a big thanks for nity to spend time with family and friends. Special rolling with it as ever as I wandered in and out of NZ thanks are due to Christine Henderson for her hos- and our other life. pitality in the Far North, Richard King in Wellington and the extended Erceg and Wilson clans in Whaka- Sofia Levin tane, especially Manda and Les Wilson. Thanks too Thank you to my supportive and loving husband, to my sister Joanne Cole for her expert appraisal of who was left twiddling his thumbs just days after the standard of cappuccino in the Bay of Plenty. our wedding when I took off for this project; my dear friend Katherine Cameron for constantly Brett Atkinson checking in on me on the road, you are a fountain Thanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and information of encouragement; and to my two biggest fans – centre staff who helped on the road, especially mum and dad. Glenn Ormsby and Mariet van Vierzen in Kaikoura. Cheers to the innovative chefs and inspired craft brewers of New Zealand for surprises and sus- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS tenance, and to Carol for support on occasional Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson beach, island and city getaways. Thanks to my BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the fellow authors, and my appreciation to Tasmin Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to once Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. again explore my backyard. Cover photograph: Lighthouse at Castlepoint, the Anita Isalska Wairarapa, Doug Pearson/AWL © Thanks primarily to Jason and Megan Hopper, who took me to the heights of the mountains and let me 470

Destination Editor Monique Perrin, Sam Wheeler, THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Simon Williamson This 5th edition of Lonely Product Editors Jessica Ryan, Cartographer James Leversha Planet’s New Zealand’s North Kate Chapman Cover Researcher Island guidebook was curated Senior Cartographer Naomi Parker

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND by Peter Dragicevich and re- Diana Von Holdt Thanks to William Allen, searched and written by Peter Book Designer Jennifer Carey, Heather Dragicevich, Brett Atkinson, Gwen Cotter Champion, Daniel Corbett, Anita Isalska and Sofia Levin. Michelle Joel Cotterell, Jane Grisman, The previous edition was writ- Assisting Editors Bennett, Katie Connolly, Liz Heynes, Claire Naylor, ten by Charles Rawlings-Way, Andrea Dobbin, Jennifer Karyn Noble, Grant Patterson, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Hattan, Helen Koehne, Alex- Kathryn Rowan, Vicky Smith, Lee Slater and Peter Drag- ander Knights, Jodie Martire, Angela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey, icevich. This guidebook was Lou McGregor, Kristin Odijk, Stephan Willemen produced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 471

Index

A art deco architecture 366-7 Bay of Plenty 58, 302, 303, tours 328 accommodation 448-51, see art galleries, see museums 324-44, 303 bicycling, see cycling, also individual locations & galleries accommodation 302 mountain biking activities, see individual arts 442-6 climate 302 bird parks, see also zoos & activities, individual ATMs 454 food 302 wildlife reserves locations Auckland 9, 56, 60-128, 61, highlights 303, 303 Katikati Bird Gardens 324-5 adventure parks 68, 70-1, 73-4, 76, 85, 9 travel seasons 302 Kiwi Encounter 310 Adrenalin Forest 328 accommodation 60, 83-7 Baylys Beach 177-8 Otorohanga Kiwi House & Blokart Recreation Park activities 79-80 beaches 21 336 Native Bird Park 224 beaches 64-5, 64 Auckland 64-5, 73, 64 Waimarino Adventure Pukorokoro Miranda children, travel with 80 Baylys Beach 177-8 Park 327-8 Shorebird Centre 186 climate 60 Bethells Beach 121 adventure sports 21, 42-8, Whangarei Native Bird see also individual drinking & nightlife 96-100 Bream Bay 138 Recovery Centre 142 activities entertainment 100-1 Cathedral Cove 197 Wharekawa Wildlife Auckland 79 festivals & events 82-3 267 Refuge 200 Bay of Plenty 336 food 60, 87-96 Great Exhibition Bay 169 Wingspan 310-11 Far North 169-70, 171 highlights 61, 61 Hahei Beach 197 birds 432 Helensville 122 history 66 Hawke’s Bay 378 birdwatching Hokianga 175 information 102 Hot Water Beach 198-9, Hawke’s Bay 378 Napier 367 itineraries 62-3, 63 Kai 258 Muriwai Beach 122 Rotorua 311-13 shopping 90, 101-2 Karekare 119-20 Thames 187 Taupo 278-80 sights 66-79 Long Beach 151 Tiritiri Matangi Island 112 Tauranga 327-8 tours 80-2 Main Beach boat tours 341 Thames 186 travel seasons 60 (Mt ) 332, 304 Auckland 82 Waiheke 108 travel to/from 102-3 Mangawhai Heads 136 Bay of Islands 132, 146, Ahipara 171-2 travel within 103-4 Matauri Bay 164 148-9 air travel 33, 459-60 walking tours 80-2, 81 Matheson Bay 127 Coromandel Peninsula 194-5 All Blacks, see rugby Limits 83 Muriwai Beach 122 East Coast 352 aMAZEme 313 Auckland Pride Festival 82-3 Ngarunui Beach 221 Goat Island 128 animals 431-3 67 Ninety Mile Beach 168-70 Mokau 231 aquariums Awakino 230-1 Ocean Beach (Kawhia) 223 Napier 367 Goat Island Marine Ocean Beach 144 Discovery Centre 127 (Whangarei Heads) New Plymouth 241-2 Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life B Omaha 126 Raglan 217-18 Aquarium 73-4 bars 50-2 Orewa 123 Rotorua 314 National Aquarium of New bats 432 Piha 120 Rotorua Lakes 323 Zealand 366-7 Bay of Islands 10, 56, 129-79, Shipwreck Bay 171 Taupo 282 133, 130-1, 147, 303, 11 Tongariro National Trout Tapeka Point 151 Tauranga 328 accommodation 129 Centre 287 Tauranga Bay 164 boat travel 460-1 activities 146 Ardern, Jacinda 418, 429 Tokerau Beach 167 books 418 climate 129 area codes 19 Waiheke Island 105 Bream Bay 138-9 food 129 Aro Valley 402 Waihi Beach 253 breastfeeding 54 highlights 130-1, 130-1 Waiwera 124 breweries 97, 410, 414 itineraries 132-3, 133 beer 50-2, see also breweries budget 19 Map Pages 000 tours 147-50 craft brewing 97 bungee jumping 46 Photo Pages 000 travel seasons 129 festivals 26, 83, 397 Auckland 79 472 bungee jumping St Joseph’s Church 260-1 Waiheke Island 108 electricity 451 continued St Mary of the Angels Waikato 210 Emerald Lakes 296, 12, 36 Taupo 279 20, 387 Wellington 396-7 emergencies 19 bush walking, see tramping St Mary’s Church 73 environment 430-4 business hours 454-5 St Patrick’s Cathedral environmental issues bus travel 33, 461-2 67-8 D 434, 459 Daily Telegraph Building 366 INDEX INDEX St Paul’s Anglican Church exchange rates 19 154 dangers, see safety extreme sports, see Dargaville 178-9 C St Stephen’s Chapel 73 adventure sports cafes 50 Wellington Cathedral of 382 C-F  Cambridge 209-11 St Paul 390 disabilities, travellers with Cameron, James 405 cinema 418, 443 456 F camping cities 21 diving & snorkelling 46-8 310 Great Barrier Island 118 climate 18, 24-6, 450, see Coromandel Peninsula Far North, the 164-72 Whanganui National also individual regions 198 festivals & events 21, Park 264 climbing Goat Island 128 24-6, see also beer festivals, film festivals, Cape Kidnappers 378 Mt Manganui 332 Great Barrier Island 115 food festivals, music Cape Palliser 385, 416 Paihia 156 Rotorua 313 festivals, wine festivals Cape Palliser Lighthouse Poor Knights marine Wellington 396 Art Deco Weekend reserve 145 416, 385 coffee 50 24, 367 Tauranga 328 Cape Reinga 132, 168-70 comedy 25, 83, 397 Auckland 82-3 Whakatane 339 car travel 32-3, 123, 462-4 Cook, James 423 Auckland City Limits 83 dolphins 105 Castlepoint 412 Coroglen 196-7 Auckland International Cathedral Cove 13, 197, 13 Coromandel Peninsula Doubtless Bay 166-7 Cultural Festival 94 cathedrals, see churches & 13, 57, 180-232, 181, drinking & nightlife 23, Bay of Islands Beast cathedrals 185, 13 49-52, 89 see also beer, 156 wine, individual caves accommodation 180 Coastal Classic 151-2 locations Abbey Caves 141 climate 180 Festival of Glass 256 drives Aranui Cave 226 food 180 Festival of Lights 24, 242 Coromandel Goldfield Glowworm Cave 225 highlights 181, 181 Experience 189 Fringe 24, 397 Kawiti Caves 159 tramping 182-3, 182 Forgotten World Hwy gay & lesbian 82-3 Muriwai’s Cave 337 travel seasons 180 250 Graffiato Street Art Piripiri Caves 229 Coromandel Town 189-91 Great Barrier Island 116 Festival 283 Ruakuri Cave 225 courses, see individual Old Russell Road 148 Great New Zealand Muster 230 Ruatapu Cave 283 locations Pacific Coast Hwy 350-3 Hamilton Gardens Arts Wairarapa 412 craft beer, see beer driving, see car travel Festival 214 Waitomo Caves 10, Craters of the Moon 277 driving licences 462 Lake Taupo Cycle 225, 10 credit cards 454 Challenge 26, 283 caving 48, 217, 226-8 Crowded House 223, 445 Matariki 397 cell phones 18, 455 currency 18-19 E New Zealand Festival children, travel with earthquakes 419, 431 customs regulations 451 24, 397 53-5, 80 East Cape 15, 350-64, 15 cycling 33, 44, 460-1, 45 New Zealand Inter- churches & cathedrals East Coast 58, 345-79, see also mountain national Comedy 346-7 Christ Church 150 biking Festival 25, 83, 397 accommodation 345 Church of Sts Peter & Auckland 103 New Zealand Interna- Paul 124 Bay of Islands 149 climate 345 tional Rugby Sevens Hiona St Stephen’s Bay of Plenty 343 food 345 24, 213-14 Church 343 Coromandel Peninsula highlights 346-7, 346-7 NZ International Film Holy Trinity Cathedral 73 194, 197, 202 tramping 348-9, 349 Festival 83 Matawhero Church 356 Hauraki Rail Trail 203 travel seasons 345 NZ Tattoo & Art Festival Ngā-Tapuwae-o-te- Hawke’s Bay 371 Eat Streat 317-18 26, 242 Mangai 169 Matakana 126 ecotours, see also tours Pasifika Festival 25, 83 Old St Paul’s 392 Orewa 123 Hawke’s Bay 378 Russell Birdman 25, 151 Church 256 Rimutaka Cycle Trail 411 Kapiti Island 409 Splore 24, 83 St Faith’s Anglican Rotorua 311 Puketi Forest 164 Tall Ship Race 151 Church 310 Taumarunui 232 Rotorua 314 Taranaki International Arts Festival 26, 242 Taupo 280-1 Russell 151 Tauranga Arts Festival Tauranga 328 Whakatane 339 Map Pages 000 328 Thames 186-7 Egmont National Park 236- Photo Pages 000 Turangi 288 7, 247-8, 236 473 National Gisborne 353-61, 354 Kawakawa Public Toilets 426 Kapa Festival glowworms 225, 227 159 Northland War 152 25, 440 Goat Island Marine Kerikeri Mission Station Rainbow Warrior, the Waitangi Day 24, 156 Discovery Centre 127 160 165, 428-9 Whangamata Beach Goat Island Marine Reserve Kororipo Pā 160 websites 425, 429 Hop 201 127 Maiki 150 world wars 427-8

World of WearableArt Grace, Patricia 442 Marae 223 hitching 464 INDEX 26, 397 Great Barrier Island 113- Māngungu Mission 173 Hobbit, the 208, 209, 230, film 418, 443 18, 114 Mansion House 113 395-6, 405 film festivals 25, 82, 397 Greytown 412-13, 382 Māori Rock Carvings 277 tours 82  F-I

 Finn, Neil 223, 445 Marine Parade 366 Hobbiton 209 Finn, Tim 223, 445 Mataatua 337 Hokianga 172-6 fishing H Hahei 197-8 Mission Cemetery 326 holidays 455 Coromandel Peninsula Monmouth Redoubt 326 Hōne Heke 152 189 Hairy Feet Waitomo 230 Napier Prison 367 Horeke 173 Great Barrier Island 115 haka 312, 439-40 National Tobacco Com- horse riding 48 Hamilton 211-17, 213 Rotorua 314 pany Building 367 accommodation 214 Coromandel Peninsula Rotorua Lakes 323 196-7 drinking & nightlife 215-16 Taupo 282 390 Far North 171 festivals & events 213-14 Tauranga 328 Old Government Build- Kapiti Island 409 food 214-15 Turangi 288, 289 ings 390 Kauri Coast 177-8 information 216 food 49-52, 451, 49, Old Government House Pakiri 128 see also individual sights 212-13 67 Palmerston North 265 locations travel to/from 216-17 Paritutu Rock 240-1 Raglan 220 festivals 26, 50, 109, 156, travel within 217 Parliamentary Library Rotorua 312 195, 299, 357 hāngi 306, 312 390 Rotorua Lakes 324 local delicacies 50 Haruru 154-8 Pōhaturoa 337 modern NZ cuisine 50 Pompallier Mission 150 Ruapehu Region 298-9, Hastings 373-8, 374 301 multicultural menu 94 Puketapu 337 Hauraki Gulf 9, 8-9 Whanganui 256 vegetarian & vegan 52 Rewa’s Village 160 Hauraki Gulf Islands 104-18 hot springs Footrot Flats 358 Ruapekapeka Pā 159 Hauraki Rail Trail 203 Athenree Hot Springs 202 Forgotten World Highway Tower 67, Hawera 253-4 9 Hot Springs 337 250 Tāne Mahuta 176 Hawke’s Bay 15, 364-79, Hawke’s Bay 379 Taranaki Pioneer Village 364, 14 Helensville 122-3 249 G health 452-3 Hot Water Beach 198-9, Te Kākano 140 gannets 122 insurance 452 281 Te Matua Ngahere 176 gardens, see parks & medical services 453 Lost Spring 194 gardens Te Pāpaka 337 Helensville 122 Miranda Hot Springs 186 gay travellers 82-3, 98, Te Puia 307-8 hiking, see tramping Morere Hot Springs 361 451-2 240 Hillsborough 79 Mount Hot Pools 332 geology 430-1 Te Waimate Mission 162 Hinemoa & Tūtānekai 307 Opal Hot Springs 208 geothermal areas, see Te Wairoa, the Buried historic buildings & sites Polynesian Spa 313 also hot springs Village 321 Bridge to Nowhere 261 Rainbow Springs 310 Craters of the Moon 277 The Elms 326 C Company Memorial Hell’s Gate 321-2 Rotorua 10, 11 House 355-6 Tupare 241 283 Spa Thermal Park 281 Clendon House 174 University Clock Tower 67 Rotorua 304, 313 Taranaki Thermal Spa 241 Daily Telegraph Building Waitangi Treaty Grounds Taupo DeBretts Hot Wai-O-Tapu Thermal 366 154 Wonderland 321 Springs 281-2 Elevator 255-6 Westerman’s Building Natural Thermal 373 Te Aroha Mineral Spas Ed Hillary Walkway 224 Valley 277 history 22-3, 420-9 206-7 Firth Tower 208 Wairakei Terraces & see also individual Te Puia Hot Springs 223 Thermal Health Goldmine Experience locations Tokaanu Thermal Pools 186 Spa 277 earthquakes 429 289 Gumdiggers Park 169 307-9 European settlement Thermal Hawera Water Tower 253 421-4 Pools 323 Lady Knox 321 Historical Maritime Great Barrier Island 113 Wairakei Natural Thermal Park 205 Valley 277 Pōhutu 307 Land Wars 426 Hurworth Cottage 241 Wairakei Terraces & Prince of Wales’ Feathers Māori settlement 420 Katherine Mansfield Thermal Health 307 423-4 House 393 Spa 277 474 hot springs continued Waiheke Island 108 Māori people 435-41 Footrot Flats Statue 355 Waiwera Thermal Resort Waikato 210 arts 438-41 Kibby Carillon 240 124 Wellington 396-7 culture 13, 23, 108, 142, Last Spike 297 Hot Water Beach 198-9 Whanganui National 156, 435-41, 13 Lighthouse, the 20 housing crisis 418-19 Park 261 geographical terms 440 Our Lady of Lourdes Hulme, Keri 441, 442 Whangarei 142 haka 439-40, 312 statue 410

INDEX INDEX Kerikeri 160-3, 161 history 224, 252, 356, Riff Raff 212 King Country 222-32 362-3, 420-1, 435-6 Sir Colin Meads Statue I language 171, 436, 465-8 229 immigration 459 Kīngitanga, the 224

I-J marae 437 Statue of Young Nick 355  Inglewood 249 kitesurfing 46, see

also paddle-boarding mythology 438 Stonehenge  insurance 453-4, 463 Far North 168 regional highlights 82, 412-13 internet access 454 Matakana 126 146, 207, 230, 247, Te Kuititana-O-Nga- internet resources 19 Whakaaro 229-30 Wellington 397 284, 312, 325, 351, 387 itineraries 27-31, 27-29, Te Tauihu Turanga kiwifruit 329 religion 436 21-31 see also individ- Whakamana 355 Kohukohu 172-3 Tā 438-9 ual locations Wind Wand 238 kumara 178-9 Taupo 277 421 Kumeu 121-2 Rotorua 307 J Whakairo 439 motorcycle travel 462-4 Jackson, Sir Peter 385, 405 maps 454 105 jetboating 46, 198, 231, L markets 23 Motuti 173 261-2, 279, 313 Labyrinth Woodworks 176 Auckland 90 mountain biking 43-4, see also cycling 304-5 Auckland Fish Market 69 Auckland 103 Lake Taupo 246, 45, see Cambridge Farmers K also Taupo Bay of Plenty 343 258 Market 211 Lake Waikaremoana 348, Great Barrier Island Kaitaia 170-1 Gisborne Farmers 362 Market 356 115-16 322-3, 44 lakes Harbourside Market 406 Helensville 122 Kaiwaka 138 Emerald Lakes 296, Hastings Farmers Market Rotorua 309 Kapiti Coast 382, 408-10 12, 36 373 Ruapehu Region 296, Kapiti Island 409 Kai Iwi Lakes 177 Henderson Night Market 298-9 183, 210 94 Taupo 281 204 Rotokura 300 Mount Mainstreet Farm- Wellington 396-7 Karekare 119-20 Rotomahana (Warm ers Market 334 Whakatane 338 Karikari Peninsula 167-8 Lake) 319 Napier Urban Farmers Katikati 324-6 Rotorua 306 Market 366 262-3 Kauri Trail 183 365 River Traders Market Moutohora (Whale Island) kauri 193, 433 Virginia 256 259 340 Kauri Coast 176-9 Waikareiti 363 Whanganui Farmers Mt 351 Market 259 Kawakawa 159-60 Wairarapa Moana 411 Mt 221 Martinborough 413-16 Kawau Island 113 Land Wars 426 Mt Maunganui 305, 332-6, Masterton 411-12 Kaweka 379 languages 18, 465-8 333, 304 Matakana 126-7 Kawhia 223-4 legal matters 454 Mt Ngauruhoe 293 328 kayaking & canoeing 45 Leigh 63-4, 127-8 Mt Paaku 199 Matakohe 179 Auckland 79-80 lesbian travellers 82-3, Mt 221 Bay of Islands 146 98, 451-2 Matamata 208-9 Mt Pureora 232 Bay of Plenty 341 Lighthouse 20, 68-9 Matauri Bay 164 Mt Ruapehu 291-3, 42 Coromandel Peninsula literature 442, see Matiu/Somes Island 382 Mt Taranaki 237, 246-50 197, 201 also books Maungatautari 209 Mt Te Aroha 207 Paihia 156 live music, see music measures 452 Mt Titiraupenga 232 Puhoi 125 Lord of the Rings, the Miranda 184-6 Mt Tongariro 293 Rotorua Lakes 322-3 208, 209, 385, 395-6, mobile phones 18, 455 Mt 395 Ruapehu Region 296, 405, 444 Mokau 230-1 Muriwai Beach 122 298-9 tours 82 306 museums & galleries 22-3 Taupo 281 Lorde 446 money 18-19, 451, 454 Academy Galleries 387 Tauranga 328 monuments & statues Aratoi Wairarapa M Big Carrot 299 Museum of Art & Mahia Peninsula 361 Big Shearer 230 History 411 Map Pages 000 Manganui 44 Clock Tower 355 Artists Open Studios, Photo Pages Whanganui 256 000 Mangawhai 136-8 Cook’s Plaza 355 475 ArtsPost 212 Ngā Taonga Sound & West Coast Gallery 121 Egmont National Park Auckland Art Gallery 67 Vision 393-4 Western Bay Museum 236-7, 247-8 Auckland Museum 73 No 1 Parnell 174 324 Hemi Matenga Memorial Bohemian Museum Old School Arts Centre, Weta Cave 395-6 Park Scenic Reserve 124-5 Raglan 217 Whanganui Regional 410 Butler Point Whaling Opotiki Museum 343 Museum 254 Hukutaia Domain 344

Museum 166 Paeroa Museum 204 Whangarei Art Museum Kaimai Mamaku Forest INDEX Cable Car Museum 387 Percy Thomson Gallery 140 Park 326 Cambridge Museum 210 249 Woodturners Studio, Lake Rotokura Ecological 238 the 179 Reserve 300 Central Hawke’s Bay  M-N Settlers Museum 379 Quarry Arts Centre 140 Wool Shed 411 Mahurangi Regional Park 125  City Gallery Wellington 306-7 music 444-6 387 Auckland 100 Mangapohue Natural Russell Museum 150 Bridge Scenic Reserve Clapham’s National Sarjeant on the Quay music festivals 446 229 Clock Museum 139 254-5 Auckland 82-3 Ngā Manu 410 Classic Flyers NZ 332 School of Mines & Miner- Bay of Islands Country 357 Classics Museum 212 alogical Museum 186 Rock Festival 150 Ohinetonga Scenic Cobblestones Museum Sea Walls 370 Bay of Islands Jazz & Reserve 232 412 Blues Festival 150 Omahuta Forest 163-4 Coromandel Mining & 410 Jazz & Blues Festival 26 Historic Museum 189 Opouahi Scenic Reserve Historical Society National Jazz Festival 365 Dargaville Museum 178 Museum 231 25, 328 Opua Forest 155 East Coast Museum of Tairawhiti Museum 355 Rhythm & Vines 26, 357 Technology 356 Otatara Pā Historic Taranaki Aviation, Trans- Wanderlust 283 Reserve 372 Fun Ho! National Toy port & Technology WOMAD 25, 242 Museum 249 Museum 241 Piripiri Caves Scenic Reserve 229 Gold Discovery Centre Taupo Museum 277 Puketi Forest 163-4 202 Tauranga Art Gallery 326 N Pureora Forest Park 232 Govett-Brewster Art Tawhiti Museum 253 Napier 15, 366-73, 368, 14 Gallery 239 activities 367 Redwoods Whakare- Te Ahu Centre 170 warewa Forest 309 Hastings City Art Gallery Te Aroha Museum 206 drinking & nightlife 371-2 373 entertainment 372 Ruahine Forest Park Te Awamutu Museum 348-9, 348 Kauri Museum 179 222 festivals & events 367 Sanctuary Mountain Kawhia Regional Mu- food 370-1 Te Kōputu a te whanga Maungatautari 209 seum & Gallery 223 a Toi 337 history 366 Scandrett Regional KD’s Elvis Presley Te Manawa 265 sights 366-7 Museum 253 Park 125 Te Papa 393 sleeping 368-70 Kina 245 Shakespear Regional Te Uru Waitakere Con- tours 367 Park 123 Kiwi North 141 temporary Gallery 119 travel to/from 372 Tangoio Falls Scenic Kura 406 Thames Historical travel within 372 Reserve 365 Centre 238 Museum 186 National Aquarium of New Lighthouse 68-9 Torpedo Bay Navy Zealand 366-7 384-5, 384 Mangawhai Museum 136 Museum 77 National Jazz Festival Te Urewera National Park Mercury Bay Museum 194 Museum 409 25, 328 348, 362-4 Moko Artspace 199 Victoria Battery Tramway National Park Village 295-8 Tongariro National Park MOTAT 75 & Museum 204 national parks & reserves 12, 44, 273-5, 291, MTG Hawke’s Bay 366 Village Arts, Kohukohu 433 292, 12, 42 Museum of Waitangi 154 172 AH Reed Memorial Kauri Waipatiki Scenic Reserve Nairn Street Cottage 394 Volcanic Activity Centre Park 141 365 288 National Library of New Alice Eaves Scenic Waipoua Forest 176-7 Zealand 392 Waiheke Island Artworks Reserve 123 Wairere Boulders Nature 108 New Zealand Cricket Arai-te-uru Recreation Park 173 Museum 395 Waihi Arts Centre & Reserve 174 Waitakere Ranges Museum 202 New Zealand Glassworks Aroha Island 160 Regional Park 119 254 Waikato Museum 212 Bellbird Bush Scenic Wenderholm Regional New Zealand Maritime Waimarie Centre 254 Reserve 365 Park 124 Museum 69 Waipu Museum 138 Boundary Stream Scenic Whanganui National Park New Zealand Portrait Waitomo Caves Discov- Reserve 365 16, 260-5, 16 Gallery 387 ery Centre 226 Dome Forest 125 Whirinaki Te Pua-a- Mu- Wallace Arts Centre 79 Tāne Conservation seum 17, 247, 265, 17 Wellington Museum 387 357 Park 322 476 national parks & reserves P Whangarei Quarry climate 302 continued Pacific Coast Hwy 350-3 Gardens 141 drinking & nightlife 318 White Pine Bush Scenic Pacific Islands Pasifika Festival 16, 25, entertainment 318 Reserve 365 83, 17 culture 16, 17 food 302, 317-18 395 passports 459 people 86 highlights 303, 303 New Plymouth 238-46, 239 Pauanui 199-200 paddle-boarding 201 history 306

INDEX INDEX accommodation 242-3 Piha 62, 120-1 Paekakariki 409 information 319 activities 241-2 Pio Pio 230-1 Paeroa 204-5 itineraries 304-5, 305 drinking & nightlife 245 planning, see also individ- Paihia 154-64, 155 shopping 318-19

N- festivals & events 242 ual regions  Palmerston North 265, sights 306-11

S food 243-5 budget 19, 449, 454  266 tours 314 history 238 calendar of events 24-6 Papamoa 336 travel seasons 302 information 246 children, travel with 53-5 Paraparaumu 409-10 travel to/from 319 shopping 245-6 internet resources 18-19 parasailing 46, 280 travel within 319 travel to/from 246 itineraries 27-31, 27-31 Bay of Islands 146 Rotorua Lakes 319-24, travel within 246 NZ basics 18 252 320 New Zealand Festival NZ regions 56-8 parks & gardens, see Ruahine Forest Park 348-9 24, 397 repeat visitors 20 also national parks & Ruahine Ranges 379 New Zealand Wars 426 travel seasons 18, 24-6 reserves Ruapehu Region 57, 270, newspapers 452 Albert Park 67 plants 431-3 291-301, 271 Nga Haerenga (New Auckland Domain 69, 73 400 accommodation 270, Zealand Cycle Trail) Bastion Point 74 politics 418 295 210, 411 Botanica 140 Poor Knights Islands 145 activities 293-4 Ngongotaha 310-11 Brick Bay Sculpture population 419 climate 270 Ninety Mile Beach 168-70 Trail 126 postal services 455 food 270, 295 North Auckland 123-8 Brooklands Park 240 public holidays 455 highlights 271, 271 Northland 56, 129-79, Butterfly Forest 186 public transport 464 history 291 130-1, 134 Centennial Gardens 367 pubs 50-2 accommodation 129 information 295 Connells Bay 107 Puhoi 124-5 climate 129 sights 291-3 Dead Dog Bay 107 Puketi Forest 163-4 food 129 tours 294-5 Eden Garden 75 Pureora Forest Park 232 travel seasons 270 highlights 130-1, 130-1 Gisborne Botanic 385 travel to/from 295-8 tramping 134, 134 Gardens 355 rugby 17, 20, 213-14 travel seasons 129 Government Gardens Running of the Sheep 230 Northland War 152 306 R radio 452 Russell 150-4 Haiku Pathway 324 Hamilton Gardens 212 rafting 45, 44 O East Coast 352 Oakura 251 Jubilee Gardens 210 S Hawke’s Bay 379 safety 455 Ohakune 298-301 Kuirau Park 307 Rotorua region 322-3 beaches 199 309-10 Memorial Park 212 Ruapehu Region 298-9, mountains 248, 294 Ohope 341-3 One Tree Hill 77-8 301 roads 464 Okato 251-2 Otari-Wilton’s Bush 396 Taupo 279 surf beaches 453 Omahuta Forest 163-4 Parnell Rose Garden 73 Turangi 288, 289 sailing Omapere 174-5 Pukeahu National War Memorial Park 394-5 Waitomo 227-8 Auckland 80 opening hours 454-5 241 Raglan 217-21, 218 Taupo 281 Opononi 174-5 Park 240 Rainbow Warrior the 165 scenic flights Opotiki 343-4 428-9 Queen Elizabeth Park Auckland 82 Opoutere 200 105 409, 411 Bay of Islands 156 Opunake 252-3 religion 436 Robbins Park 326 Mt Manganui 332 Orakei Korako 272, 283 Rawene 174 Rose Garden, Te Rotorua 314 Orewa 123-4 reserves, see national Awamutu 222 Taupo 282 Otorohanga 224-5 parks & reserves Square, the 265 Whakatane 339 Owhango 232 rock climbing 48, 217 Te Mata Trust Park 373-4 scuba diving, see diving & Rotoroa Island 112 Titirangi Reserve 355 snorkelling Rotorua 10, 58, 302-24, Waterworks 193 seals 242 308, 11 Wellington Botanic senior travellers 451 accommodation 302, Map Pages Gardens 393 000 314-17 shopping, see individual Photo Pages Western Springs 75 locations 000 budget travel 310 477 skiing & snowboarding travel seasons 233 Tongariro Alpine Crossing trees 432-3 43, 42 Taumarunui 231-2 12, 291, 12 trekking, see tramping Manganui 44 Taumatawhakatangihang- Tongariro National Park 12, Trounson Kauri Park 177 Mt Taranaki 247-8 akoauauotamateaturi- 44, 273, 274-5, 291-5, trout 289 Orewa 123 pukakapikimaungahoro- 274, 292, 12, 42 tuatara 431 nukupokaiwhenuakitan- Ruapehu Region 296, 298 tourist information 456 atahu 378-9 Turangi 287-91, 288 Tongariro National Park tours 461-2, see also INDEX Taupo 57, 270-3, 276-87, 294 44, 294 ecotours 271, 273, 278, 280 Tutukaka Coast 145-6 skydiving 46 train travel 33, 159, 189, accommodation 270, 202, 231, 297, 464 TV 452 Mt Manganui 332  S-W 283-5 tramping Taupo 279 activities 278-82  Auckland 79, 82 Whangarei 142 U climate 270 Coast Skyline Rotorua 312 Urupukapuka Island 159 drinking & nightlife 286 Walks 144 smoking 452 festivals & events 282-3 Cape Palliser 385 Split Enz 223, 445 food 270, 285-6 V sports, see also individual vacations 455 highlights 271, 271 Walkway 79 sports vegan travellers 52 history 276 Coromandel Peninsula Auckland 100-1 vegetarian travellers 52 information 287 182-3, 200-1, 182 stargazing 116 visas 18, 457 itineraries 272-3, 273 East Coast 352, 349 Great Barrier Island 20 visual arts 443-4 shopping 286-7 Egmont National Park New Plymouth Observa- 236-7, 236 volcanoes 430-1 tory 240 sights 276-8 Far North 165, 169 Auckland Volcanic Space Place 393 travel seasons 270 Gisborne 357 Field 67 Stardome 78 travel to/from 287 Great Barrier Island 115 Moutohora (Whale Ward Observatory 256 travel within 287 Island) 340 Hawke’s Bay 379 Whakatane Observatory Tauranga 326-32, 327 Mt Eden 74-5 Kapiti Island 409 337 Tauranga Bay 164 Mt Ngauruhoe 293 King Country 229 statues, see monuments & taxes 458, 460 Mt Ruapehu 291-3, 42 Mt Taranaki 247 statues taxi travel 464 Mt Tongariro 293 New Plymouth 241 Stratford 249-50 Te Aroha 205-8 One Tree Hill 77-8 Northland 134, 134 Surf Highway 45 250-4 Te Awamutu 222 Rangitoto Island 105 Rangitoto Island 105 surfing 47 Te Henga 121 Whakaari (White Island) Auckland 80 Te Kōngahu Museum of Rotorua 313 342 Bay of Plenty 341 Waitangi 154 Rotorua Lakes 323 volunteering 457 Coromandel Peninsula Te Kooti 356 Ruapehu Region 298-9 201 Te Kuiti 229-30 Taupo 280-1 Far North 172 Te Paki Giant Sand Dunes Te Urewera National W Waiheke Island 62, 105-12, Gisborne 356-7 168-9 Park 363 106 Great Barrier Island 115 Te Papa 393 Tongariro National Park Waihi 202-4 Mt Manganui 332 Te Puia 307-8 274-5, 293-4, 274 Waihi Beach 202-4 New Plymouth 241 Te Urewera National Park Turangi 288 Waikanae 410 Piha 120 348, 361-4 Waiheke Island 108 Waikato 57, 180, 205-32, Tutukaka Coast 145 telephone services 18, Waikato 210 455-6 181, 206 Waikato 221 Waipu Coastal Trail 138 temples, see churches & accommodation 180 swimming Wairarapa 384-5 cathedrals climate 180 Gisborne 356-7 Waitomo 227 Thames 186-8, 187 food 180 Mt Manganui 333 Whakatane 337-8 theatres highlights 181, 181 Rotorua 313 Whanganui 256 ASB Waterfront Theatre history 205 Waikato 207 Whanganui National Park 100 263-4 travel seasons 180 Wellington 396 Civic Theatre 66-7 Whangarei 142 Waikato River Trails 210 Whakatane 339 MTG Hawke’s Bay 366 White Cliffs Walkway 240 Waimamaku 176 Napier Municipal Theatre transport 32-3 Waimangu 304 T 372 travel resources 32 Waimangu Volcanic Valley Tairua 199-200 time 18, 456 travel seasons 18, 450 319 Taranaki 57, 233-69, 234-5 tipping 454 travel to/from the North Wai-O-Tapu 304 accommodation 233 Tiritiri Matangi Island Island 459-60 Wai-O-Tapu Thermal climate 233 112-13 travel within the North Wonderland 321 food 233 Titirangi 119 Island 460-4 Waiotemarama 176 toilets 456 highlights 234-5, 234-5 424 Waiouru 301 478 Waipoua Forest 133-4, 397-400 highlights 234-5, 234-5 West Auckland 121 176-7 activities 396-7 travel seasons 233 WOMAD 25, 242 Waipu 138-9 climate 380 Whanganui National Park women travellers 458 Wairakei 278 drinking & nightlife 16, 260-5, 262, 16 work 458 Wairakei Natural Thermal 403-4 Whangarei 139-44, 140-1 working holiday scheme Valley 277 entertainment 404-5 Whangarei district 136-46 457

INDEX INDEX Wairarapa 383, 384-5, festivals & events 397 Whangarei Heads 144-5 411-16 food 380, 400-3 Whangaroa Harbour 164-6 Wairoa 364-5 Y highlights 381, 381 Whenuakite 196-7 yoga 396

W-Z Waitakere Ranges 119  history 386 white-water rafting, Waitangi 154-8 information 406 see rafting  Waitomo Caves 10, 225-9, itineraries 382-3, 391, Whitianga 194-6, 195 Z , 226 10 383 windsurfing 397 Zealong Tea Estate 214 Waiwera 124 shopping 405-6 wine 23, 52, 373 zip-lining walking, see tramping sights 386-96 wine festivals 26, 156 Coromandel 20 walking tours 391, 391 tours 397 First Light Wine & Food Rotorua 311-12 Wanganui, see Whanganui travel seasons 380 Festival 357 zoos & wildlife reserves, see also bird parks Warkworth 125-6 travel to/from 406-7 Rhythm & Vines 357 75 waterfalls travel within 407-8 Toast Martinborough 415 Brooklands Zoo 240 Aratiatia Rapids 277-8 walking tours 391 wineries 49 Goat Island Marine Haruru Falls 154-5 Wellington Cable Car 387 Auckland 78 Reserve 127 Huka Falls 277 Wellywood 405 Bay of Plenty 325 Hamilton Zoo 212-13 Marokopa Falls 229 West Auckland 118-22 Far North 167-8, 170 Te Reinga Falls 361 Paradise Valley Springs Whakaari (White Island) Gisborne 355, 359 311 Waireinga 221 342 Hawke’s Bay 15, 373, Pukaha Mt Bruce Wairere Falls 208, 337 Whakapapa 293-4 377, 14 National Wildlife Whangarei Falls 141 Whakarewarewa 307-9 Kerikeri 163 Centre 413 weather 18, 24-6, see Whakatane 336-41 Mangawhai 136 Sugar Load Islands also individual regions whales 105 Martinborough 414-5 Marine Park 242 websites 457 Whangamata 200-2 Matakana 126-7 Te Tapuwae o Rongokako weights 452 Whangamomona 250 Rotorua 310 Marine Reserve 353 Wellington 12, 58, 380, Whanganui 57, 233, 254-9, Russell 151 Te Whanganui-A-Hei 382, 386-408, , Marine Reserve 194 381 234-5, 255 Tauranga 326-7 383, 388-9, 391, Wellington Zoo 395 accommodation 233 Waiheke Island 107 392-3, 12 Zealandia 395 climate 233 Wairarapa 415 accommodation 380, food 233 Warkworth 125-6

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across and overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, , Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Peter Dragicevich Bay of Islands & Northland, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty, After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing – both in his native New Zealand and in Australia – Peter finally gave in to wanderlust, and set out to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he has written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet, covering an oddly disparate collection of countries – all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auck- land, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

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Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – Sep 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 083 3 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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