452 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Art Deco Weekend 337 Bay of Plenty 41, 292-314, 273 Fringe NZ 22 accommodation 272 International Film Festival 359 climate 272 New Zealand International Arts highlights 273 Festival 22 travel seasons 272 NZ Body Painting Festival 252 Baylys Beach 151 Reel Earth Environmental Film beaches 18 Festival 237 Auckland region 58, 99, 101, 108 Splore 22 Bay of Islands 119 Taranaki International Arts Festival Bay of Plenty 306, 311, 312 24, 214 Baylys Beach 151 Te Matatini National Kapa Haka Festival 22 Coromandel Peninsula 13, 153, 165, 167-9, 170, 171-3 A Wanganui Festival of Glass 227 East Coast 319 accommodation 422-5, see also Wanganui Literary Festival 227 Great Barrier Island 93-7 individual locations World of WearableArt Award activities 21, 29-38, see also Show 24 Kapiti Coast 373-4, 376 individual activities, locations Atene 233 King Country 195 adventure & amusement parks ATMs 430 Lake Taupo 245 Northland 141, 142, 151 Rainbow’s End 59 Auckland 6, 39, 44-84, 45, 48, 52-3, Spookers 58 56, 60, 62, 66-7, 70, 7 safety 428-9 Waimarino Adventure Park 294 accommodation 66-72 south of Raglan 187-88 aerial sightseeing, see scenic flights activities 59-63 Taranaki 212, 218, 222 Ahipara 144-6 children, travel with 61 Te Henga (Bethells Beach) 100 air travel climate 44, 425 Waiheke Island 87, 86 airlines 436, 438 drinking 76-8 Waikato 178-9, 176-7 airports 436 entertainment 78-80 Wellington 357 to/from Auckland 82 festivals & events 64-6 Beehive 354 to/from New Zealand 436-8 food 44, 72-6 beer 385, see also breweries to/from Wellington 371 highlights 45 bicycle travel, see cycling within New Zealand 438-9 internet access 81 Big Carrot 268 All Blacks 10, 384-5 internet resources 46 Big Shearer 203 aMAZEme 288 itineraries 47 birds 399-400, see also individual amusement parks, see adventure & shopping 80-1 bird species amusement parks sights 46-59 birdwatching Anaura Bay 321 tourist information 81 Bay of Plenty 288, 304, 308 animals 397-400, see also tours 63-4 books 399 birdwatching, individual species, travel seasons 44 Cape Kidnappers 345 zoos & wildlife parks Kapiti Island 375 antinuclear protests 411-12 travel to/from 82-3 travel within 83-4 Karaka Bird Hide 158 aquariums Lake Ferry 378 walking tour 50, 50 Kelly Tarlton’s 55-6 Lake Tutira 331 Auckland International Airport 82 National Aquarium of New Zealand Maungatautari Ecological Island 191 335 Automobile Association 422, 440 Maungawhio Lagoon 328 Tongariro National Trout Centre 257 Miranda 157 B Aratiatia Rapids 246 Miranda Shorebird Centre 157 B&Bs 422 archaeological sites, see historic Nga Manu Nature Reserve 376 baches 85 sites, Maori fortified villages Otorohanga Kiwi House & Native backcountry huts 31-3, 232, 265, 423 area codes 204, 432 Bird Park 197 Ball, Murray 321 art galleries, see galleries Pukaha Mt Bruce National Wildlife ballooning, see hot-air ballooning Centre 381 arts 405, 416-20 Batten, Jean 392 Whanganui region 240 arts festivals, see also festivals & events, food & wine festivals, Bay of Islands 8, 39, 122-37, 110-11, Wingspan Birds of Prey Trust 288 music festivals, sporting events, 122, 9 black-water rafting 199-200, see individual locations accommodation 109 also rafting climate 109 blokarting 303 food 109 boat travel to/from New Zealand 438 000 Map pages highlights 110 to/from Wellington 371 000 Photo pages internet resources 112 travel seasons 109 within New Zealand 439 453 boat trips, see also canoeing & Lake Taupo region 249, 258 consulates 426-7 kayaking, jetboating, rafting, Northland 116, 141 Cook Observatory 322 sailing Taranaki 213 Cook, James 323, 386, 389, Auckland region 49, 64, 107 Waiheke Island 88 387 Bay of Islands 123-5, 139 Waikato 181, 182, 185 Coroglen 167 Bay of Plenty 283, 289, 308 Waioeka River 312 Coromandel Peninsula 12, 40, 153-74, Coromandel Peninsula 166 Wellington 357 154-5, 13, 20 Hawke Bay 336 Whanganui National Park 232-3 accommodation 153 King Country 196, 204 Whanganui River 15, 266 climate 153 INDEX Lake Taupo region 248, 250, canyoning food 156 256, 258 Coromandel Peninsula 159 internet resources 156
Waikato 181, 185 B–C Waitakere Ranges 99 regional highlights 154-5 Whakaari (White Island) 311 Cape Egmont lighthouse 223 travel seasons 153 Whangaui region 226 Cape Kidnappers 345-6 Coromandel Town 160-3 bone carving 185, 321, 431 Cape Palliser 378-9 courses books 30, 385, see also literature Cape Reinga 142-4 diving 60, 107, 120, 122, 141, 168, birdwatching 274, 399 Cape Runaway 319 169, 291, 294 culture 406, 409 car travel 17, 440-3 glass blowing 225 history 391 maps 429 kitesurfing 141 regional topics 46, 112, 156, 178, road distances 442 meditation 163 244, 319 paragliding340 tramping 30 Carter Observatory 351 carving 406 sailing 59, 123 wildlife 400 surfing 61 Cathedral Cove 167-8, 13, 20 Brain Watkins House 293 ropes 102, 166, 251, 294 caves & caving 36 Bream Bay 113-14 Crater Lake 264 Abbey Caves 115 breweries, see also beer credit cards 430 Aranui Cave 199 Auckland region 78, 88, 101, 107 Crowded House 419 Glowworm Cave 199 East Coast region 324, 343 cruises, see boat trips, sailing Kawiti Glowworm Caves 126 Northland region 118 culture 395, 411, 415 King Country 199-200 Rotorua region 286 books 406, 409 Muriwai’s Cave 306 Taranaki region 210, 218 Maori 403-10 Nikau Cave 179 Wanganui region 236 currency 16 Piripiri Caves Scenic Reserve 202 Bridge to Nowhere 232, 233, 15 customs regulations 426 Ruakuri Cave 199 budget 16 cycling 36-7, 439 Ruatapu Cave 256 bungy jumping 36, 27 Auckland region 102 Waitomo Caves 8, 198-200 Auckland 59, 60 Bay of Islands 123 cell phones 17, 432 Central Plateau 271 Bay of Plenty 279-80, 295 Central Plateau 40, 259-71, 243 Lake Taupo region 251 BikeFest 25, 252 accommodation 242 Rotorua 278, 282 Central Plateau 268 climate 242 Buried Village 289 Coromandel Peninsula 158, 159, bus travel food 242, 244 163 to/from Auckland 82 highlights 243 East Coast 325, 336 to/from Wellington 371-2 internet resources 244 Great Barrier Island 95 tours 64 travel seasons 242 Hawke’s Bay 336 within New Zealand 439-40 children, travel with 425-6 Hauraki Rail Trail 158 business hours 425 Auckland 61 Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge 25, Wellington 360 252 churches & cathedrals, see also Lake Taupo region 251 C temples Makara Peak 357-8 Cambridge 190-3 Holy Trinity Cathedral 51 Martinborough 376-7 camping 320, 422-3, 441 St Faith’s Anglican Church 278 Nga Haerenga, New Zealand Cycle Campion, Jane 417 St Patrick’s Cathedral 48-9 Trail 234, 439 canoeing & kayaking 37, 38 St Paul’s Church 131 Old Coach Road 268 Auckland 60-1 cinema 417, see also film Ruapehu Whanganui Trails Auckland region 104 climate 16, 425, see also individual 269 Bay of Islands 123, 125, 134, 138 regions Tongariro Forest 262 Bay of Plenty 281, 283, 294, 300, 311 climate change 437 Tongariro National Park 266 Coromandel Peninsula 161, 168 climbing 258, 266, see also rock Tongariro River Trail 257 Hawke’s Bay 336 climbing Waikato River Trails 191, 256 454 D environmental issues 398 food & wine festivals dance 409 Cape Reinga 143 Auckland region 65 Dargaville 151-2 climate change 437 Devonport Food & Wine Festival 65 Darwin, Charles 391 fishing 139 Festival of Cultures 236 Days Bay 357 Maungatautari Ecological Island 191 Gisborne Food & Wine Festival Department of Conservation 423, MV Rena 299 25, 325 433, 441 One Tree Hill 59 Kawhia Traditional Maori Kai dirt biking 172 etiquette 407 Festival 196 INDEX dirtboarding 172 events, see festivals & events Manawatu Wine & Food Festival 237 disabilities, travellers with 433 exchange rates 17 National Jazz Festival 295 diving 37 extreme sports 36-8
D–G Toast Martinborough 378 Auckland 60 Auckland 59 Wairarapa Wines Harvest Festival Bay of Islands 122-3 Rotorua 278-9 378 Bay of Plenty 294, 299, 308, 311 Wellington on a Plate 359 Coromandel Peninsula 165, 168, food tours 89, 125, 358 169 F farmstays 423 football (soccer) 414 courses 60, 107, 120, 122, 141, 168, 169, 291, 294 festivals & events 21, 22-5, see Footrot Flats 321 also arts festivals, food & wine East Coast 322 forest reserves, see parks & reserves festivals, music festivals, sporting Forgotten World Hwy 221 Great Barrier Island 93-5 events, individual locations Four Sisters 150 Northland 120, 141 Carrot Carnival 267 Frame, Janet 416 Poor Knights Islands 120 Festival of Lights 22 shark-cage dives 322, 325 freedom camping 320, 441, see also gay & lesbian travellers 428 camping dolphin spotting 308 Golden Shears 380 Auckland 59 Great New Zealand Muster 203 Bay of Plenty 294, 308, 311 Hastings Blossom Festival 341 G dolphins, swimming with 124, 400 Kawhia Traditional Maori Kai galleries, see also museums Bay of Islands 125 Festival 196 Academy Galleries 351 Bay of Plenty 294 Matariki 23 Auckland Art Gallery 46-7 Doubtless Bay 140-1 NZ Fashion Week 65 Chronicle Glass Studio 225 drinks, see beer, breweries, wineries NZ International Comedy Festival City Gallery 351 driving, see car travel 23, 65, 359 Dowse 355 Driving Creek Railway & Potteries 161 Opotiki Rodeo 313 Govett-Brewster Art Gallery 211 driving licences 440 Pacific Islands (Pasifika/Polyfest) New Zealand Portrait Gallery 351 Dundle Hill 200 12, 65, 24 Wallace Arts Centre 58 Durie Hill Elevator 225-6 Pohutukawa Festival 25 gannets 101, 102, 308, 345 DVDs 423 Royal Easter Show 65 gardens, see also parks & reserves Taranaki Garden Spectacular 214 Auckland Botanic Gardens 58 Te Matatini National Kapa Haka Butterfly & Orchid Garden 158 E Festival 22, 408 Connells Bay 88 earthquakes 384-5, 391, 395, 397 Waitangi Day 22, 24 Dead Dog Bay 88 East Coast 15, 41, 315-47, 316-17 film 384, 409, 417, see also Lord of Eastwoodhill Arboretum 323 accommodation 315 the Rings Eden Garden 51 climate 315 festivals 23, 65, 237, 359 Parnell Rose Gardens 55 food 319 locations 64, 193, 369 Pukeiti Rhododendron Garden 218 highlights 316-17 tours 358 Pukekura Park 210-11 internet resources 319 Finn brothers 189, 419 Rapaura Water Gardens 160 travel seasons 315 fishing 139, 402 Rose Garden 189 Eastwoodhill Arboretum 323 Bay of Plenty 282, 294 Waihi Waterlily Gardens 172 economy 392, 395, 413 Coromandel Peninsula 161, 169 Wellington Botanic Gardens 355 Egmont National Park, see Mt environmental issues 139 Zealandia Sculpture Garden 105 Taranaki (Egmont National Park) Great Barrier Island 93-5 electricity 423, 426 gay travellers 427-8 King Country 196 Auckland 77 embassies 426-7 Lake Taupo region 250, 258 emergencies 17 festivals 65, 428 trout 250 geography 396-7 flightseeing, see scenic flights geology 396-7 food 20, 427, see also food & wine geysers 194, 246, 275, 291, 397 000 Map pages festivals, food tours, individual 000 Photo pages locations Gisborne 322-7, 324, 14 455 glowworms 114, 115, 179, 199, 200, holidays 431 insurance 201, 357 Hone Heke 128, 388 car 443 golf 251, 282, 374 Horeke 147 health 428 Gravity Canyon 271 horse riding, see horse trekking travel 429 Great Barrier Island 93-7, 94 horse trekking 36 internet access 429 Great Walks 19, 31-4, 32 Auckland region 108 internet resources 17 Lake Waikaremoana Track 328, Bay of Islands 123 accommodation 402, 422 329-30, 329 Bay of Plenty 281-2, 308 air tickets 437-8, 439 Tongariro Northern Circuit 259, Central Plateau 268, 270, 271 arts 420 INDEX 262, 261 Coromandel Peninsula 163, 166 Auckland region 46 Whanganui Journey 232, 233-4 East Coast 321 Bay of Islands 112 Greytown 379-80 Hawke’s Bay 336 Central Plateau 244 G–K Gumdiggers Park 143 Kapiti Coast 374 Coromandel Peninsula 156 King Country 199 East Coast 319 H Lake Taupo region 251 food 427 Hahei 167-8 Martinborough 376 gay & lesbian travellers 427 haka 408, 24 Waikato 188, 191-2 health 428 Hamilton 179-85, 180 Whangaui region 241 history 387, 388 Hapuawhenua viaduct 268 hostels 423-4 King Country 178 Hastings 340-5, 341 hot springs 9, 27 music 418, 419 Hauraki Gulf 6, 84-97 Athenree Hot Springs 172 Northland 112 Hawera 224 Awakeri Hot Springs 309 sustainable travel 402 Hawke’s Bay 15, 331-47, 332, 15 Bay of Plenty 288-9 Taranaki 210 health 428-9 Craters of the Moon 246 Waikato 178 Helensville 102 Great Barrier Island 95 Wellington 350 Hells Gate 288-9 Hinemoa 283 Whanganui region 210 hiking, see tramping, Great Walks, Lost Spring 165 i-SITE 433 walks Mangatutu Hot Pools 347 itineraries 26-8, 26, 28 Hillary, Edmund 393, 414 Miranda Hot Springs 157 Auckland 47 Hinemoa 280, 283 Morere Hot Springs 328 Rotorua 275 historic sites Motuhora (Whale Island) 311 Wellington 351, 359 baches 85 Ngawha Springs Pools 147 Buried Village 289 Opal Hot Springs 193 J Hukutaia Domain 312 Parakai Springs 102 Jackson, Peter 369, 417 Kororipo Pa 134 Polynesian Spa 281 jetboating 36 Monmouth Redoubt 292-3 Taranaki Thermal Spas 212-13 Auckland 61 Orakau 190 Te Aroha Mineral Spas 134 Bay of Islands 125 Puketapu 306 Te Puia Hot Springs 195 Bay of Plenty 279, 305 Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve 140 Te Whakarewarewa 275 Coromandel Peninsula 168 Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve Tokaanu Thermal Pools 257 East Coast 319 128 Wairakei Terraces & Thermal Health Hawke Bay 336 Stony Batter Historic Reserve 88 Spa 246 King Country 205 Te Hana Te Ao Marama 106 Waiwera Thermal Resort 104 Lake Taupo region 247, 256 Te Papaka 306 Hot Water Beach 168-9, 245 Motu River 313 Waitangi Treaty Grounds 130, 394 hot-air ballooning Waikato 191 history 18, 386-95 Auckland 61 Whanganui National Park 233 books 391 Balloons Over Waikato festival 182 Whanganui region 236 European settlement 388-90, East Coast 341 390-2 Waikato 182 internet resources 387, 388 hotels 424 K Land Wars 393 huia 399 Kai Iwi Lakes 150 Maori people 386-8 Hukutaia Domain 312 Kaitaia 144 Musket Wars 387, 390 Hurworth Cottage 218 Kapiti Coast 373-5 WWI 391 hypothermia 428 Kapiti Island 375 WWII 392, 393 Karaka Bird Hide 158 hitching 443 Karangahake Gorge 173 I Hobbiton Movie Set & Farm Tours 193 Karekare 99 immigration 393, 413, 433, 436 Hokianga Harbour 146-9 Karikari Peninsula 141-2 Inglewood 221 456 Katikati 304-5 Mangawhai 112-13 Dunedin 197 kauri 402 Mansfield, Katherine 354, 416 Lyttelton 157 Kauri Coast 149-52 Manu Bay 188 Motueka 89 Kawakawa 126 Maori people 11, 403-10 Nelson 77, 82 Kawau Island 92-3 carvings 98, 144, 226, 236, 245, Oamaru 214 Kaweka Ranges 347 278, 406 Queenstown 238, 240 Kawhia 195-6 festivals 359 Martinborough 376-7 Kerikeri 134-7, 135 historic sites 106 Masterton 380-2 INDEX King Country 40, 195-206, 176-7 history 196, 197, 222, 262, 280, Matakana 106-7 308, 331, 386-8 accommodation 175 Matakana Island 303 internet resources 113 climate 175 Matakohe 152 K–M politics 57 highlights 176 Matamata 193-4 religion 405 internet resources 178 Matauri Bay 138 tours 63, 116-17, 117, 125, 131, 143, Matiu-Somes Island 357 travel seasons 175 148, 252, 256, 275, 278, 282, Kingitanga 197, 393, 413 325, 341, 358 Maungakiekie, see One Tree Hill kiteboarding 36, 101, 141, 187 Maori fortified villages 311 Maungatautari Ecological Island 191 kitesurfing, see kiteboarding Operiki Pa 232 Maungawhau, see Mt Eden kiwifruit 304, 384 Otatara Pa 335 measures 423 kiwis 115, 134-5, 191, 197, 288, 376, Te Hana Te Ao Marama 106 medical services 428 381, 384, 399-400 Maori regional highlights microbreweries, see breweries Kohukohu 146 Auckland 64 Miranda 157 kokako birds 137 Bay of Plenty 279 Mitai Maori Village 278 Kororipo Pa 134 Central Plateau 245 Mitimiti 146 Kumeu 100-1 Coromandel Peninsula 156 moa 387, 399 East Coast 318 mobile phones 17, 432 L King Country 179 Mohaka viaduct 331 Lake Ferry 378 Northland 113 Mokau 204 Lake Karapiro 191 Taranaki 211 Mokena Geyser 194 Lake Rotokura 270 Waikato 179 Mokoia Island 276 Lake Rotorua 276, 290 Wellington 355 money 16, 17, 426, 430 Lake Surprise 268 Whanganui region 211 moneychangers 430 Monmouth Redoubt 292-3 Lake Tarawera 289, 290 Maori War & Early Settlers Cemetery 179 monuments Lake Taupo 244-59, 248 maps 30-1, 429-30 Cook Monument 323 Lake Tutira 331 marae 15, 19 Pohaturoa 306 Lake Waikareiti 330 etiquette 407 Rainbow Warrior 138 Lake Waikaremoana Track 328, 329-30, 329 Hinemahuru Marae 319 Stonehenge Aotearoa 380 Land Wars 393 Huria Marae 293 Te Tauihu Turanga Whakamana 323 language 16, 445-8 Kahungunu Marae 328 Moriori people 387 Koriniti Marae 235 Leigh 107 motels 424 Maketu Marae 196 lesbian travellers 427-8 motorcycle travel 440-3 Maniaroa Marae 204 Auckland 77 maps 429 Motuti Marae 146 festivals 65, 428 sporting events 227 Taane-nui-a-Rangi Marae 328 literature 410, 416, see also books tours 64, 172 Te Araroa 320 Lord of the Rings 193, 260, 354, Motu River 313 369, 417 Te Manuka Tutahi Marae 306 Motuhora (Whale Island) 311 Te Papa 358 Motuihe Island 85 Turangawaewae Marae 179 Motuora Island 92 M marine reserves, see also parks & Motutapu Island 84-5 Mahia Peninsula 328 reserves mountain biking, see cycling Maketu 305 Goat Island Marine Reserve 107 mountaineering 219 Manawatu Gorge 241 Sugar Loaf Islands Marine Park 211 Mt Eden 51 Mangakino 256 Te Tapuwae o Rongokako Marine Mt Hikurangi 321 Mangapurua Trig 234 Reserve 322 Mt Karioi 188 Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve 166 Mt Maunganui 299-303, 300 markets 21, 335, 427 Mt Ngauruhoe 260, 390 000 Map pages Christchurch 152, 154 Mt Pirongia 188-9 000 Photo pages Cromwell 205 Mt Pureora 256 457 Mt Ruapehu 260 music festivals 126 Otari-Wilton’s Bush 355, 357 Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park) Auckland region 65, 89 Otorohanga 196-8 218-21 Coromandel Peninsula 166 Owhango 205-6 Mt Te Aroha 194 International Jazz & Blues Festival Mt Titiraupenga 256 237 Mt Tongariro 260 Jazz & Blues Festival 24 P pa, see Maori fortified villages Mt Victoria 57 National Jazz Festival 23, 295 Paaku 169 Muriwai Beach 101 Rhythm & Vines 25
Pacific Coast Hwy 318-22 INDEX museums 19, see also galleries WOMAD 23, 213 Pacific Islands Auckland Museum 51 Musket Wars 387, 390 culture 385 Buried Village 289 MV Rena 299, 385
Pasifika Festival 65, 81, 12, 24 M–P Cable Car Museum 355 people 12 Cobblestones Village Museum 379 N Polyfest 65 Napier 12, 332-40, 334, 13 East Coast Museum of Technology Paekakariki 373-4 & Transport 323 National Aquarium of New Zealand 335 Paeroa 174 Fun Ho! National Toy Museum 221 National Library of New Zealand 354-5 Paihia 130-4, 130 Gumdiggers Park 143 national parks & reserves, see parks Pakiri 108 & reserves Kauri Museum 152 Palmerston North 236-40, 237 National Park Village 266-7 KD’s Elvis Presley Museum 224 Papamoa 303 netball 414 Kiwi North 115 Paradise Valley Springs 288 New Plymouth 210-17, 212 MOTAT 57 paragliding 36, 251, 340 New Zealand Film Archive 351 Mount Surf Museum 300 Paraparaumu 374-5 news 423 Museum of Wellington City & parasailing 36, 123, 251, 279 Ngarunui Beach 188 Sea 351 Parihaka 222 Nga-Tapuwae-o-te-Mangai 142 National Army Museum 270 parks & reserves 402, 401, see also Navy Museum 57 Ngati Tarara people 145 gardens, marine parks & reserves New Zealand Rugby Museum 236 Ngati Tuwharetoa people 245 AH Reed Memorial Kauri Park 115 Petone Settlers Museum 355 Ngati Whatua people 57 Coromandel Forest Park 161 Puke Ariki 210 Ngatoro-i-rangi 262 Egmont National Park 218-21 Rotorua Museum 276 Ninety Mile Beach 142-4 Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park 294 Russell Museum 127 North Island basics 16-17 Long Bay Regional Park 102 School of Mines & Mineralogical Northland 39, 110-11 Mahurangi Regional Park 105 Museum 158 accommodation 109 Mangapohue Natural Bridge Scenic Southward Car Museum 374 climate 109 Reserve 202 Tairawhiti Museum 322 food 109, 112 McLaren Falls Park 294 Taranaki Aviation, Transport & highlights 110 Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Technology Museum 218 internet resources 112 Park) 218-21 Taranaki Pioneer Village 221-2 travel seasons 109 Nga Manu Nature Reserve 376 Taupo Museum 245 number-eight wire 415 One Tree Hill 58, 59 Te Aroha Museum 194 Pirongia Forest Park 188-9 Te Awamutu Museum 189 Poor Knights Islands 120 O Te Papa 358 Puke Ariki Landing 211 Oakura 222-3 Tramway Museum 373-4 Pureora Forest Park 256 Ocean Beach 187 Volcanic Activity Centre 247 Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve 140 Ocean Beach (King Country) 195 Voyager – New Zealand Maritime Rotokura Ecological Reserve 270 Ohakune 267-70 Museum 49 Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve 128 Ohinemutu 277-8 Waiheke Museum & Historic Scandrett Regional Park 105 Ohope 311-12 Village 88 Shakespear Regional Park 103 Omahuta Forest 137 Waikato Museum 180 Tararua Forest Park 381 Omaperer 148-9 Waitangi Treaty Grounds 130 Tawharanui Regional Park 106 One Tree Hill 58, 59 Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre Te Urewera National Park 328-31 199 opening hours 425 Tongariro National Park 10, 34, Weta Cave 354 Opononi 148-9 259-66, 261 Whanganui Riverboat Centre 225 Opotiki 312-14, 319 Wairere Boulders Nature Park 147 Whangarei Art Museum 115 Opoutere 170 Whakanewha Regional Park 88 Whittaker’s Musical Museum 88 Opunake 223-4 Whanganui National Park 15, Wool Shed 380 Orakau 190 230-6, 231 music 385, 409, 418-20 Orakei Korako 256 Whirinaki Forest Park 292 Orewa 103-4 458 passports 433, 436 Mohaka River 347 rugby 10, 80, 384-5, 414, 10 paua 431-2 Motu River 313 haka 408 Pauanui 169-70 Tongariro River 257-8 New Zealand International Sevens penguins 55, 92, 100, 124, 166, Wairoa River 293 22, 359 308, 357 Whanganui River 268 New Zealand Rugby Museum 236 phonecards 432 Raglan 185-7, 186, 35 Russell 126-30, 127 Piha 99-100 railways Rutherford, Ernest 391, 413 Pike River coalmine disaster 384, Driving Creek Railway & INDEX 395 Potteries 161 S planning 16-17, see also individual Goldfields Railway 172 regions safety 431 Rain Forest Express 98 beaches 428-9 P–S activities 29-38 Raurimu Spiral 205 budgeting 16, 423 Hot Water Beach 169 Thames Small Gauge Railway 158 calendar of events 22-5 tramping 31, 264 Waitakere Tramline Society 98 sailing, see also boat trips itineraries 26-8, 26, 28 Rain Forest Express 98 North Island’s regions 39-41 Auckland region 49, 59 Rainbow Warrior 138, 394, 395, Bay of Islands 123, 124, 125 travel seasons 16, 22-5 412, 394 Bay of Plenty 282-3, 294 plants 400-2 Rangiaowhia 190 Coromandel Peninsula 161 Pohaturoa 306 Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve 140 Lake Taupo region 249 Pohutu 275 Rangipo Desert 270 sporting events 126 politics 57, 392, 395, 411-14 Rangirii 179 Wellington 357, 371 Poor Knights Islands 119-21 Rangitoto Island 84-5 sandboarding 143, 148 population 384, 411, 413 Raurimu Spiral 205 scenic flights Port Waikato 178-9 Rawene 147-8 Bay of Islands 125 postal services 430-1 Rawhiti 121 Bay of Plenty 282, 295, 308, 311 pounamu 432 Redwoods Whakarewarewa Central Plateau 264, 268 Pouto Point 152 Forest 289 Lake Taupo region 252 Prince of Wales’ Feathers 275 regional parks, see parks & public holidays 431 reserves Taranaki 219 pubs 424 religion 405 Wellington 358 Puhoi 104-5 rental accommodation 424-5 Whangaui region 226 Puke Ariki 210 reserves, see parks & reserves scuba diving, see diving Puke Ariki Landing 211 ride-sharing 443 seals 378, 400 Puketapu 306 river sledging, see rafting sea kayaking see canoeing & kayaking Puketi Forest 137 rock climbing 37, see also climbing senior travellers 426 Puketui Valley 170 Bay of Plenty 300 shark-cage dives 322, 325 Putangirua Pinnacles 378 Rotorua 279, 300 sheep shearing 295 Waikato 181-2, 190 shopping 431-2, see also markets, Wellington 357 Q individual locations rocksliding 325 quad biking shorebirds 157 ropes courses 102, 166, 251, 294 Auckland region 102 skiing & snowboarding 34-5 Rotoroa Island 92 Lake Taupo region 252 Auckland region 103 Rotorua 8, 41, 274-88, 276, 290, Northland 145, 147 Central Plateau 260-1, 262 9, 27 Tongariro Forest Park 264 Lake Taupo region 251 accommodation 283-5 Taranaki 219-20 activities 278-82 Sky Tower 47 R drinking 286 skydiving 37-8 radio 423 entertainment 286 Auckland 60 rafting 38, see also black-water food 274, 285-6 Bay of Islands 123 rafting, caves & caving highlights 273 Bay of Plenty 279, 294-5 Bay of Plenty 280 itineraries 275 Lake Taupo region 250 East Cape 319 shopping 287 Northland 116 Kaituna River 280-1 sights 275-8 Waikato 193 King Country 199-200 tourist information 287 Skydome Observatory 151 Lake Taupo region 249 travel to/from 287 smoking regulations 427 travel within 287-8 Snell, Peter 224 Ruahine Ranges 347 000 Map pages snorkelling, see diving Ruapehu Whanganui Trails 269 000 Photo pages soccer 414 Ruapuke Beach 188 459 sporting events takahe 85, 92, 357, 399 Tongariro National Trout Centre 257 100K Flyer 252 Tama Lakes 264 Tongariro Northern Circuit 259, Auckland Anniversary Day Regatta Tamaki Maori Village 278 262, 261 64 Tane Mahuta 150 Toroa 308 Auckland International Boat Tangi te Korowhiti 196 tourist information 433 Show 23 Taranaki 40, 208-9 tours, see also individual locations Auckland region 65 accommodation 207 4WD 143 Balloons Over Waikato 182 climate 207, 219 bus travel 64 BikeFest 25, 252 INDEX highlights 208 cultural 63, 116-17, 117, 125, 131, Day-Night Thriller 252 internet resources 210 143, 148, 252, 256, 275, 278, 282, Epic Swim 252 325, 341, 358 travel seasons 207 Golden Shears 380 cycling 159, 172, 213, 325, 336, 379 S–V Tasman, Abel 386 Great Lake Relay 252 food 89, 125, 358 tattooing 406 Hamilton 400 182 motorcycle travel 64, 172 Taumarunui 204-5 Ironman New Zealand 252 walking 50, 63, 64, 191, 256, 291, Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauota- 311, 356, 358 Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge 25, 252 mateaturipukakapikimaungahoro- motor racing 251 nukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu 346 wine tasting 63, 89, 125, 295, 341, 336, 344, 379 New Zealand International Sevens Taupiri 181 train travel 444, see also railways 22, 359 Taupo 40, 244-55, 246, 248 to/from Auckland 83 NZ Masters Games 227 Tauranga 292-9 to/from Wellington 372 Opotiki Rodeo 313 Tauranga Bay 138 tramping 19 Running of the Sheep 203 Tauranga Bridge 319 Great Walks 19, 31-4, 32 Russell Birdman 23, 126 Tawarau Forest 202 hut passes 265 Cemetery Circuit Motorcycle taxes 430, 435, 436 Race 227 safety 31, 264 Te Aroha 194-5 sheep-shearing championships 203 sustainable travel 30 Te Awamutu 189-90 Tall Ship Race 126 tours 63, 64 Te Hana Te Ao Marama 106 Weekend Coastal Classic 126 travel seasons 16 Te Henga (Bethells Beach) 100 sports 414 travel to/from New Zealand 436-8 Te Kaha 319 Stardome Observatory 58 travellers cheques 430 Te Kooti 331 Stonehenge Aotearoa 380 Treaty of Waitangi 130, 306, 388, Te Kuiti 203-4 Stratford 221-2 390, 394 Te Matua Ngahere 150 Surf Hwy 222-4 trees 150, 400-2 Te Papa 358, 19 surfing 38, 35, see also beaches trekking, see Great Walks, Te Papaka 306 tramping, walks Auckland 61 Te Puia 275 Trounson Kauri Park 150 Bay of Plenty 299, 311 Te Puke 305-6 tuatara 376 Coromandel Peninsula 172 Te Toto Gorge 188 Tuhua (Mayor Island) 303 East Coast 324 Te Whakarewarewa 275 tui 399 Northland 120, 145 Te Wherowhero 388 Tupare 218 Surf Hwy 222-4 telephone services 17, 432, see also Turangi 257-9, Taranaki 212, 223 257 mobile phones Tutanekai 280 Waikato 179, 185, 188 temples 142, see also churches & Tutukaka Coast 119-21 Surville Cliffs 142 cathedrals, marae TV 417, 423 sustainable travel Thames 157-60, 158 air travel 437 theatre 409 Central Plateau 244 thermal spas, see hot springs U Coromandel Peninsula 156 Tikitere 288-9 Urupukapuka Island 134, 9 East Coast 319 time 432-3 internet resources 402 tipping 427, 430 V Northland 112 Tiritiri Matangi Island 92 vacations 431 Rotorua 274 Titirangi 97-8 vegetarian travellers 427 Waikato 178 Toanui viaduct 268 visas 17, 433-4 Whanganui region 210 Toast Martinborough 359 visual arts 408-9, 420 Tokaanu Thermal Pools 257 volcanoes 2, 397, 10 T Tokomaru Bay 320, 321 Auckland 51, 55, 57 Taihape 271 Tongariro Alpine Crossing 10, 19, Hells Gate 288-9 Tainui waka 196 262-3, 2 Motuhora (Whale Island) 311 Tairua 169-70 Tongariro National Park 10, 34, 259- Mt Eden 51 66, 261, 2-3, 10, 35, 390 460 volcanoes continued Eastern Okataina Walkway 281 websites, see internet resources Mt Ngauruhoe 260 Great Barrier Island 95 weights 423 Mt Ruapehu 260 Hillary Trail 98 Wellington 10, 41, 350-73, 349, Mt Tongariro 260 Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park 294 352-3, 362-3, 11 Mt Victoria 57 Karangahake Gorge Historic accommodation 348, 359-63 Tikitere 288-9 Walkway 173 activities 357-8 Waimangu Volcanic Valley 291 Mangapurua/Kaiwhakauka Track children, travel with 360 Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland 234 climate 348, 425 INDEX 291 Mangawhai Cliff Top Walkway 113 drinking 367-8 Whakaari (White Island) 310-11 Matemateaonga Track 234 entertainment 368-70 volunteering 434 McLaren Falls Park 294 festivals 358-9 V–W Mt Taranaki (Egmont National food 348, 363-7 Park) 218-221 highights 349 W Nga Tapuewae o Toi Track 306 internet access 370 waders 157 Northern Tarawera Track 281 internet resources 350, 371 Waiheke Island 87-92, 86, 6 Rainbow Mountain Track 281 itineraries 351, 359 Waihi 171-3 Ridge Track 264 shopping 370-3 Waikanae 376 Round the Mountain Track 263 sights 351-7 Waikato 40, 178-95, 176-7, 13 Ruapani Track 330 tourist information 371 accommodation 175 Silica Rapids Track 264 travel seasons 348 climate 175 Tama Lakes Track 264 travel to/from 371-2 food 178 Taranaki Falls Track 264 travel within 372-3 highlights 176 Tongariro Alpine Crossing 10, 262-3 walking tour 356, 356 internet resources 178 Tongariro National Park 266 Wellywood 369 travel seasons 175 Tongariro River Trail 257 Whakaari (White Island) 310-11 Waikato River 180-1, 27 Waikato River Trails 191 Whakamaru 256 Waikite Valley 291 Waipu Coastal Trail 114 Whakatane 306-10, 307 Waioeka Gorge 319 Wairakau Stream Track 139 Whale Bay 188 Waioeka River 312 Wairake Track 188 whale-watching 59, 308, 400 Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland 291 Wharekirauponga 171 Whangamata 170-1 Waiouru 270 Whirinaki Waterfalls Track 292 Whangamomona 221 Waipoua Forest 149-50 Wanganui, see Whanganui Whanganui 40, 224-30, 226 Waipu 113-14 Warkworth 105-6 Whanganui Journey 232, 233-4 Wairarapa, the 375-82 waterfalls Waireinga 188 Aratiatia Rapids 246 Whanganui National Park 15, 230-6, 231, 15 Waitakere Tramline Society 98 Bridal Veil Falls 188 Whanganui region 208-9 Waitangi 130-4 Dawson Falls 219 accommodation 207 Waitangi Treaty Grounds 130 Haruru Falls 131 highlights 208 Waitomo Caves 8, 198-202, 198, 8 Huka Falls 245-6 internet resources 210 Waiwera 104 Karekare Falls 99 travel seasons 207 Wake, Nancy 392 Marokopa Falls 202 Whanganui River Road 231-2 wakeboarding 256 Okere Falls 281 walking tours Rainbow Falls 135 Whangarei 114-19, 116 Auckland 50, 50 Rere Falls 325 Whangarei District 112-21 Wellington 356, 356 Taranaki Falls 264 Whangarei Heads 119 walks, see also Great Walks, tramping Tarawera Falls 281 Whangaroa Harbour 139 Bay of Plenty 281, 294 Te Reinga Falls 328 Wharepapa South 190 Bridge to Nowhere 232, 233 Waiau Falls 164 Whenuakite 167 Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway 142 Waireinga 188 white-water rafting, see rafting Coast to Coast Walkway 61-3 Wairere Falls (Matamata) 193 Whitianga 164-7, 165 Coromandel Peninsula 171 Wairere Falls (Whakatane) 306 wildlife 397-402, see also birdwatching, marine reserves, zoos & wildlife Crater Lake 264 Waitonga Falls 268 parks, individual species Duke’s Nose Track 139 Wentworth Falls 171 windsurfing East Coast 347 Whangarei Falls 115 Bay of Plenty 294 Wharepuke Falls 135 Coromandel Peninsula 165 Whirinaki Waterfalls 292 Waikato 187 weather 16, 425, see also individual 000 Map pages Wellington 358 regions 000 Photo pages Whitianga 165 weaving 408 461 wine festivals, see food & wine festivals women travellers 434 Hamilton Zoo 181 wineries, see also wine-tasting tours work 434-5 Katikati Bird Gardens 304 Auckland region 63, 82, 101, 105, world’s second-longest place name Marshalls Animal Park 294 Bay of Islands 136 346 Native Bird Recovery Centre 115 Bay of Plenty 293, 304 WWI 391 Nga Manu Nature Reserve 376 Coromandel Peninsula 173 WWII 392, 393 Otorohanga Kiwi House & Native East Coast region 332 WWOOFing 424 Bird Park 197 Gisborne 323 Owlcatraz 240 INDEX Hawke’s Bay 332, 344 Y Paradise Valley Springs 288 Northland 144 yachting, see boat trips, sailing Pukaha Mt Bruce National Wildlife Centre 381 regions 20 Yakas 150 Rotorua region 295, 304 Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife W–Z Park 288 Waiheke Island 87-8 Staglands Wildlife Reserve 357 Wairarapa 375-6, 378-9 Z zoos & wildlife parks, see also marine Wellington Zoo 357 wine-tasting tours 63, 89, 125, 295, reserves 341, 336, 344, 379 Wingspan Birds of Prey Trust Altura Gardens & Wildlife Park 199 288 Wingspan Birds of Prey Trust 288 Aroha Island 134-5 Zealandia 357 women in New Zealand 390, 413 Auckland Zoo 57 zorbing 279, 294 462
These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: Look out for Sights Tours Drinking 1 T 6 these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation Activities Sleeping Shopping 2 4 7 No payment F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an j Tram environmentally friendly way, a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly or supporting conservation d Train projects. i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly
Reviews are organised by author preference.
Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village 449
Behind the Scenes
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OUR READERS help in the Coromandel, and to Joanne Cole in Many thanks to the travellers who used Northland. Extra special thanks are due to my the last edition and wrote to us with help- trusty Bay of Islands sidekick Matt Swaine, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Taupo font-of-all-knowledge Donna Jarden, anecdotes: George & Maureen Aungle, and to Tony Dragicevich and Debbie Debono M Byrnes, Leanne Logan for the writing retreat. Charles Rawlings-Way AUTHOR THANKS Thanks to the many generous, knowledgeable and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the Brett Aktinson road, especially the i-SITE staff in Palmerston Thanks to all the i-SITE and DOC staff I North, Hamilton, Waitomo and New Plymouth. tapped for vital information. At Lonely Planet, Thanks to Errol Hunt for the gig, and the ever- it’s always great to work with Errol Hunt and impressive LP production staff (including the the NZ author crew. Final thanks to Carol Lords of SPP). Humongous gratitude to my back at Casa Loma in Auckland. tireless, witty and professional co-authors: Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater Sarah, Brett, Peter and Lee. Thanks also to Warren for Wellington, and to Meg, Ione and Thanks to everyone who helped us on the Remy for holding the fort while I was away. road, including RTO, DOC and i-SITE staff , tourism operators and travellers. Big ups to everyone in-house at Lonely Planet and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS to Team NZ, including Errol, Peter, Brett, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Charles, Sarah Ewing and, by proxy, Arnott Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Potter at CPP. To all who provided a park for World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate our camper, a fridge for the fl agon and even Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System turkey for thanksgiving: arohanui, e hoa ma. Sciences, 11, 1633 44.
Peter Dragicevich Cover photograph: Surf at Piha beach, Mas- If I were to thank everyone who helped me eat simo Ripano/Corbis. Many of the images in and drink my way around Auckland it would this guide are available for licensing from be a very long list indeed. Particular thanks Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanet go to Shenita Prasad and Tania Wong for their images.com. 450 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
This Book Coordinating Editor Internal Image Research This 2nd edition of Lonely Plan- Amanda Williamson Rebecca Skinner et’s New Zealand’s North Island Coordinating Cartogra- Language Content guidebook was coordinated by pher Laura Matthewman Branislava Vladisavljevic Brett Atkinson, and researched Coordinating Layout Thanks to and written by Brett, Sarah Ben- Designer Jacqui Saunders Anita Banh, Imogen Bannister, nett, Peter Dragicevich, Charles Managing Editors Barbara David Carroll, David Connolly, Rawlings-Way and Lee Slater. It Delissen, Martine Power Daniel Corbett, Laura Crawford, BEHIND THE SCENES includes content from the 16th Managing Cartographers Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Chris edition of the New Zealand guide, Shahara Ahmed, Corey Girdler, Paul Iacono, Alison Lyall, coordinated by Charles Rawlings- Hutchison Ross Macaw, Erin McManus, Anna Way. This guidebook was com- Metcalfe, Jane Nethercote, Susan missioned in Lonely Planet’s Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart Paterson, Trent Paton, Anthony Melbourne office, and produced Phelan, Kirsten Rawlings, Jes-
by the following: Assisting Layout sica Rose, Dianne Schallmeiner, Designer Wibowo Rusli Commissioning Editor Amanda Sierp, Gina Tsarouhas, Errol Hunt Cover Research Diana Von Holdt, Gerard Walker Naomi Parker
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