ITINERARY n.33 NOT ON MAP 9 10 11 13 15 2 4 1 5 6 7 8 3 14 12 The Blue Baths, 1933 1901 City Guide: Rotorua 1 Princes Arch Gateway Architecture seems to be a big city activity. It is, of course, possible to think of exceptions - Mario Arawa Street Botta in the mountain resort town of Lugano, Peter Zumthor beavering away in the tiny Swiss village of Haldenstein, or more close at hand, John Scott seeming to pluck inspired designs from the coastal air of Haumoana – but almost every significant architect is associated with a particular metropolis, and much of what we assume is important about architectural culture seems to rely on metropolitan densities of wealth and sophistication. Even here in decidedly un-metropolitan New Zealand, the big cities seem to predominate. A scan of the list of NZIA National Awards reveals the dominance of Christchurch, Wellington, and (particularly) Auckland; places like Gisborne, Russell, or Levin rarely make the list. It is hard to know whether this is because of a lack of architectural ambition among small town architects, or because their important opportunities are usually snaffled by big city design firms; Aucklanders often complain about Aussies jetting in to snatch plum commissions, but seem not to hesitate at getting on a plane to Queenstown or Paraparaumu to pick up projects. Rotorua is one of the many provincial cities in New Zealand where civic architecture has largely been created by those that don’t live there. In Rotorua, this was exaggerated by the peculiar role outside authorities, particularly the central government, have played in its development – it was unique in the Commonwealth in being a government-controlled town. Early European visitors encountered a geothermal and scenic wonderland - the spectacular Pink and White Terraces on Lake Tarawera, mud pools, geysers and hot springs with healing qualities. Sensing the area’s potential as a tourist destination – the vision was for a spa resort in a grand European manner -the government acquired land adjacent to Originally built in honour of the 1901 visit of the Duke the Ngati Whakaue village at Ohinemutu in the 1880s. Land in the new town was offered for lease to the and Duchess of Cornwall public, and spa facilities were quickly developed in the Sanatorium Reserves (the area that is now the and York (who later became Government Gardens). The destruction of the Pink and White Terraces with the eruption of 1886 didn’t King George V and Queen dampen the tourist trade, and by 1907 there were at least 25 hotels and boarding houses in the area, with Mary I), this totara structure the grand, Tudor style Bath House opening the following year. was intended as a stylized The vision didn’t quite eventuate; the notion of the waters as a miraculous cure-all was officially debunked representation of a Crown. by the middle of the century, and the Bath House closed in 1966. Rotorua’s waters, however, have The spectacle was enhanced continued to attract tourists for their recreational rather than curative benefits, and the region’s cultural by illumination with electric and natural amenities have ensured that the city remained a tourist hotspot. lights, electricity having only In 1962, Rotorua reached a population of 20,000 and was declared a city. During the post-war years just become available in the farming and forestry industries were developing significantly in the surrounding districts, and like city. Portions of the Gateway, many New Zealand cities, Rotorua experienced a building boom. The city was no longer government now HPT Category 2 listed, were moved after the visit controlled, but it became a centre for government administration with numerous government departments to its present location to establishing regional headquarters in high-modern office blocks. serve as the entrance to the Generating considerable architectural production, the two activities of tourism and administration set Government Gardens. the architectural character of the city. Rotorua has been home to talented architects, the work of several Head across the road to of whom is included in this guide, but is an architectural paradox: a city that developed because of the take a look at the HPT-listed unique natural assets of its particular location, but both its architecture and the architects that created it Princes Gate Hotel, originally always seem to be looking to much bigger places elsewhere. Andrew Barrie & Julia Gatley built in 1897. ReferenceReference as: as: Andrew Andrew Barrie Barrie and and Julia Julia Gatley, Gatley, “City “City Guide: Guide: Rotorua”, Rotorua”, Itinerary Itinerary No. No. 33, 33, Block: Block: The The Broadsheet Broadsheet of of the the Auckland Auckland Branch Branch of ofthe the New New Zealand Zealand Institute Institute of of Architects, Architects, No. No. 7, 7, 2010. 2010. 2 1918 3 1908 4 1914 5 1940 St Faith’s Church The Bath House Post Office Rotorua Civic Theatre 1 Tunohupu St., Ohinemutu Government Gardens 34 Arawa Street 1170 Fenton Street Edward La Trobe Hill W. J. Trigg & B. S. Corlett. John Campbell Edmund Anscombe & Assocs Subject of a thousand postcards, the Anglican church An early Government- At the time this building was of St. Faith’s sits on the edge sponsored tourism initiative, produced, Anscombe was of the lake in the Maori village The Bath House opened in Another favourite of postcard one of the county’s leading of Ohinemutu. The Edward La 1908. Designed to evoke the printers, the two floors and architects, running offices in Trobe Hill-designed Tudor-style atmosphere of a European tower of this building are Dunedin, Wellington and the building replaced an earlier spa, the complex was built in clad in rough cast cement Hawkes Bay. He had produced one built in 1885. Inside the an Elizabethan half-timbered plaster with decorative Tudor such designs as the Classical- church is richly decorated with style and is regarded by timberwork. It was designed style Sarjeant Art Gallery in carvings, tukutuku panels, and many as the most impressive by John Campbell, who is now Wanganui and the moderne a window overlooking the lake Elizabethan Revival building in best known as the winner of Centennial Exhibition in showing a Maori Christ who the country. The spa facilities the 1911 competition for the Wellington (1939-1940), but this seems to be walking on water. have now moved elsewhere design of Parliament Buildings project is an eclectic mixture The adjacent Tamatekapua on the site (try the Polynesian in Wellington. Now occupied of Stripped Classical and meeting house is worth a look Spa!), and the HPT Category by the Department of Labour, Spanish Mission elements. In – it reopened in 1943, but many 1-listed building now houses the building is HPT Category addition to the theatre, concert of its carvings may be much the Rotorua Museum of Art 2 listed. chamber and supper room, older. & History. The Government Campbell also designed the the building originally housed La Trobe Hill also designed Gardens contain a number Queen Anne-style Government the library, municipal offices the Rotorua Soldiers’ Institute of other architectural treats: Tourist Bureau (1903) at the and museum. It has now been (1918) at 1133 Hinemaru the Tea Pavilion (1903), the other end of the block, the two significantly extended, creating Street, his own house (1927) pagoda-roofed Croquet buildings now being connected some intriguing inside-outside at 1282 Hinemoa Street, and Pavilion (1907), and J.T. Mair’s by the Tourism Information inversions. Glenholme, 63 Miller Street Spanish Mission-style Blue Centre erected in 1993 by The building is HPT Category (1900). Baths (1933). Auckland firm Creative Spaces. 1 listed. 6 1940 7 1958-1962 8 1962 9 1965 Police Station Government Building Gov’t Life Insurance Building Timber Research Building Cnr Haupapa & Tutanekai Sts 1127 Haupapa Street 1115 Haupapa Street Sala Street Government Architect’s Office Government Architect’s Office Porter & Martin Ministry of Works (J. Newnham) Due to its importance as a This building was produced tourist hub, Rotorua was George Porter had served for a John Newnham is best known by John T. Mair during his time administered directly by the time in the Ministry of Works , as the designer of the New as Government Architect. One central government for much and his Wellington-based firm Zealand Pavilion at Expo 70, of the building’s most unusual of its early history, and a of Porter & Martin was involved Osaka. Common to the Japan features was the plaster-cast strong government presence in a great many civic and town and Rotorua buildings was frieze of Maori motifs – this was remained. In the 1960s and planning projects. As well as the imperative to demonstrate locally made – that runs around 1970s, Rotorua was one of this, the firm produced at least the different ways in which the outside of the building. the fast developing parts of four other Government Life both native and exotic timbers It’s heavy-duty stuff – the the country, as the economic buildings – New Plymouth, could be used. Here, timber reinforced concrete structure is power of the forestry and Palmerston North, Masterton, posts and beams were given clad in brick veneer to produce farming industries in the central and Lower Hutt. Another architectural expression. exterior walls that are 18 inches North Island expanded. New significant building in the In addition, sixteen glue- thick. The building served as facilities were developed Government Precinct is the laminated parabolic arches police station until 1969, when in Rotorua to serve as a Maori Land Court (1963) at originally circled an entry the Police moved to a more regional administrative centre 1143 Haupapa Street - still in rotunda, complemented purely modern edifice (by F for government agencies, original condition (complete internally by ‘ornamental’ wall G Sheppard, Government the Government Building with James Turkington mural).