Most ExpensiveThe U.S. StreetsInside: Pg. 12 TINA JOHNSON JOINS NRDC/3 AZZARO SOLD/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 5, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Speak Softly PARIS — John Galliano has converted, at least for the spring season, to the real-clothes-for-real-women camp, showing lots of discreet suits at Christian Dior for day. Even his draped evening dresses detailed with crystals and beads, like this one, looked calm. For more on the collections, see pages 6 to 9.

Yurman’s Bigger World: Jeweler in Beauty Deal, Plots Overseas Growth By Sophia Chabbott NEW YORK — Paul Blum, just seven months into the job as David Yurman’s chief executive officer, is already bringing a new whiff into the air. In an effort to propel the $500 million brand into the next stage of growth, the 26-year-old jewelry firm has inked a deal for its first fragrance with Groupe Clarins. But the beauty deal is only one leg of Blum’s strategy to grow the Yurman brand. The company also plans to aggressively expand internationally, including the opening of the first freestanding stores overseas, beginning See David, Page15 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ John Galliano’s Dior was smart and refi ned, Valentino provided grown- 6 up fl uff and Karl Lagerfeld went sharp and graphic as Paris rolled on. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Jeweler David Yurman has inked a deal for its fi rst fragrance with Groupe 1 Clarins as a key step in the $500 million fi rm’s international expansion. RESORT-FUL THINKING Christina Johnson, former Saks Fifth Avenue ceo, has joined NRDC Easy Care Fashions Make Smart Sense for Early Spring 3 Equity Partners as managing director of retail and consumer investments. EYE: The A-listers turned out in force at the Waldorf for the Elton John AIDS For a stylish woman, perhaps the only thing female respondents stated in the affirmative. Ditto 4 Foundation benefi t that has raised $100 million in the fi ght against AIDS. more exciting than the thought of a warm weather for wrinkle resistance (68%), stain resistance (55%), DISH: Swimwear designer Ashley Paige and jeans company Paige vacation during the cold winter months is the the ability to behave as shape wear (49%) and water Premium Denim are in a legal battle over rights to the Paige name. careful calculation of what she might pack for that repellency (46%). 10 ultimate getaway. Awareness of these treatments has piqued BEAT: Nupur Jordon, Princess of Jaislmer in Rajasthan, India, has There will certainly be many women’s interest. According to 11 launched her own contemporary sportswear line called Nupur Paris. classy considerations for the savvy the Monitor, 54% of female Nicolas Andreas Taralis, named artistic director of Cerruti in August, has traveler from the Resort 2007 consumers stated that they had 14 a few notions of how he wants to pilot the dusty Paris fashion house. collections; wardrobe options purchased something with wrinkle Tommy Hilfi ger raises his fl ag in the midst of Paris Fashion Week; his fi rst range from the expected nautical resistance, 35% with water 14 Paris fl agship opens today at 368 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. combinations to everyday basics repellency, and 33% with stain Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 to soft and voluminous pieces resistance. The majority of female To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. that define and flatter the consumers who said bought a feminine form. treated garment said they would [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- “We are definitely seeing two- do so again. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. While the easy care treatments VOLUME 192, NO. 71. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- tone garments, which are, of ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- course, nautically-inspired items for today’s clothing could be called ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers that lend themselves to layering, “brilliant,” the palette for Resort Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and like tees, woven tops, light sweaters 2007 will be toned down. “Think C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior and classically cut pants and of jewel tones, but taken down a Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance skirts,” offers Claire Dupuis, a few levels in intensity, and not Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. quite as bold. Colors are muted Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. Senior Product Trend Analyst at “Vacation clothes should make you 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Cotton Incorporated. “We are and reflect the environment with Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS happy, plain and simple. You want CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, also seeing plenty of garments with light palettes of sands, pinks, things that are easy to care for and ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR interesting textures and subtle corals and moss,” offers Dupuis, DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four wear well in the warmer weather so weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. contrasts, like breezy dresses with the trend analyst. “Colors will be Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other naturally, you will be packing a lot trim details and ruffle cuts.” much warmer; brighter shades U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. of garments made with natural First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, “Resort 2007 is also about will be sun bleached for an overall and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions volume and cut, as seen in A-line fibers, like cotton.” more subdued palette,” the Foster and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To — Rose Roberts, subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make skirts and bubble dresses,” adds Brothers share. our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Rose Roberts Travel Services interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Alle Fister, founder and owner of Owing to an ever-popular us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Bollare, a Los Angeles-based nautical theme, an apparent WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- lifestyle public relations firm. “Full cut, wide legged cornerstone of each year’s resort and spring ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, trousers and bubble jackets are some key volume collections, strong and contrasting colors will also OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED pieces that are really in. When wearing this trend have their place. “Color blocking, for both knits and make sure to pick one volume piece and let the rest wovens, is the most directional way to use color for of your ensemble be more subdued and form spring, whether in contrasting layers or bold graphic In Brief fitting.” combinations to add a sportswear element for “Fabrics will be sheer and flowing for an overall simple dress shapes,” offers Fecci from New York relaxed look. Chip and and Company. Adds Fister, ● TOD’S TAPS HAMADA: Tod’s SpA has promoted Stephanie Pepper’s spring line the fashion expert, “For Hamada to senior vice president of communications and VIP features cotton tunics and Are You Aware of Cotton Clothing That… resort there are some bright relations. Hamada has been with the company for 11 years in ce- flowing tops with a hint of colors, especially reds and lebrity dressing for the brand. Hamada’s responsibilities cover tailoring that is sexy, yet Female Consumers greens, which are great. We the firm’s flagship brand, Tod’s, as well as its Hogan and Roger comfortable in its style,” Is easy care 77% are often seeing these colors Vivier labels. Is wrinkle resistant 68% offer Chip and Pepper paired with a crisp white ● GEN ART’S L.A. PICKS: Gen Art has announced the designers Foster, the twin brothers Is stain resistant 55% for a very fresh look!” for its ninth annual Los Angeles Fresh Faces of Fashion runway who founded their own Is water repellant 46% With regard to looking show, presented by BlackBerry and set for Oct. 13 at Santa Monica line of premium denim Has moisture management 26% and staying crisp, expect Airport’s Barker Hangar. Women’s designers are Augustine, Crispin & Basilio, Katy Rodriguez, Trasteverine and Ziji. Fremont jeans and other garments. Is abrasion resistant 20% jeans to take their place in “The newest silhouettes every fashionable suitcase. will present men’s and women’s collections, Anzevino & Florence “Women are certainly will show men’s wear, and Haverhill will show swimwear. The ac- have a certain fluidity, cessories showcase includes Hollie Ten and Jack Rabbit jewelry, softness and volume,” says Tammy Fecci, Senior wearing denim on vacation, because they love it as a and LD Turtle and Marcella Toshi shoes. Designer, Dresses for New York and Company, a basic; it packs well, goes with practically everything line of apparel. “Fluid dresses with soft shirring to and it can withstand a few wearings before washing,” ● WOLFORD NAMES WINKLER: Luxury hosiery fi rm Wolford add volume appear in trapeze, baby doll, empire considers Dupuis from Cotton Incorporated. “It’s has appointed Dominik Winkler as head of retail management. and floor length silhouettes.” the perfect vacation staple for day or night.” Winkler, 38, is responsible for the fi rm’s national retail teams and “Vacation clothes should make you happy, plain Along with style and performance features, there will continue the expansion of Wolford boutiques worldwide. and simple,” considers Rose Roberts, founder of are other secrets to keeping your garments fresh and Wolford has 250 boutiques worldwide and distribution in 45 coun- tries. He replaces Alan McDanell, who will leave the fi rm at the her namesake travel agency based in New York wearable, shares Roberts, the travel expert. “How end of the year after almost three years and return to London for City. “You want things that are easy to care for and you pack your garments can make a big difference,” personal reasons. Winkler has a background in textiles and has wear well in the warmer weather so naturally, you she muses. “I roll my garments around my shoes held retail positions at fi rms such as Escada, Rena Lange and will be packing a lot of garments made with natural and I rarely have to iron the clothes when I get Villeroy & Boch. fibers, like cotton.” there.” There’s smart advice the “resort-ful” New finishes and treatments to today’s cotton thinking traveler should heed. clothing certainly go a long way in defining the term This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Corrections ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ easy care. Many manufacturers are treating The forthcoming Miu Miu boutique at 219 Rue Saint-Honoré in garments with easy care properties that offer stain tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Paris will have a gilded decor inspired by the brand’s new Milan resistance, moisture management, wrinkle resistance, pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it showroom in a Liberty villa. This information was unclear in a water repellency, and anti-microbial protection. relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Fashion Scoop on page 7, Tuesday. When asked by the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle and behavior regarding clothing, ● ● ● Monitor™ if they were aware of cotton clothing that appearance, fashion, fiber selection and A photo on page 3, Tuesday, showed Albert and Ute Kriemler of offers easy care options, more than three out of four many other timely, relevant subjects. Akris with Jim Gold of Bergdorf Goodman and Burt Tansky of Neiman Marcus. Albert Kriemler was misidentifi ed. Also, the name of Caryn Lerner, president of Holt Renfrew, was misspelled. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 3 WWD.COM Christina Johnson Joins L&T’s Parent NRDC

By David Moin Christina Richard much of the space will be converted to of- Johnson Baker fi ce and/or residential use. The store has NEW YORK — Christina Johnson, former been underperforming, considering its size president and chief executive offi cer of — 650,000 square feet — and relatively small Saks Fifth Avenue, has joined new Lord volume of about $140 million annually. & Taylor owner NRDC Equity Partners as “There is no rush; we are evaluating a partner and managing director of retail all different options,” Baker said, adding and consumer investments. that a plan for the fl agship would be set The move led to speculation that by the end of this year. He said he would NRDC eventually might seek to acquire consider relocating the fl agship to an- Saks, which is in turnaround mode and other Manhattan site if it became worth- isn’t for sale. Still, several private equity while to convert the entire Fifth Avenue and real estate fi rms, including NRDC, store to nonretail space. have shown interest in the retailer, peo- The new owners plan to invest $150 mil- ple close to the situation said. lion to renovate stores and expand in the “We have more than enough to chew suburbs of the Northeast Corridor. The on for a while,’’ Richard Baker, presi- 180-year-old Lord & Taylor chain operates dent of NRDC, said during an interview 48 stores and generated $1.4 billion in sales Wednesday. “We really want to focus on last year. Baker called three New York Lord & Taylor and make it into the pre- units outside Manhattan, in Eastchester, mium brand it should be.” However, Manhasset and Garden City, and the Baker acknowledged, “We are looking at Stamford, Conn., store “little jewels.” other things,” and added that the com- Johnson is the latest top retailer to be pany remains “very price conscious.” He hired by a private equity fi rm. Last month, did not disclose any targets. Allen Questrom, former J.C. Penney, Feder- That’s where Johnson comes in. “I will ated Department Stores and Barneys New work with NRDC to assist on new acqui- York ceo, joined Lee Equity Partners, a sitions and the due diligence, and help new fund formed by Thomas H. Lee. Philip them manage properties we acquire,” Miller, who preceded Johnson as chairman she said. and ceo of Saks, is an operating director Acquisitions could be in the retail, at Tri-Artisan Capital Partners. Vanessa travel and restaurant sectors, Johnson Castagna, former chairman and ceo of J.C. said, adding that wholesale companies ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY Penney stores, catalogue and Internet, was were a possibility, though they are not a recruited by Cerberus Capital Management sector NRDC is actively exploring. We really want to focus on Lord & Taylor and and is executive chairman of Mervyns, NRDC is looking for companies that “ owned by Cerberus. have brand recognition, are cash-positive, make it into the premium brand it should be. Three-and-a-half years ago, Mickey present growth opportunities and have ” Drexler, the former Gap ceo, was recruited strong management, Johnson said. She by Texas Pacifi c Group to revive J. Crew, was involved in the Lord & Taylor deal — Richard Baker, NRDC which he recently took public. Robert as a temporary consultant for Tri-Artisan DiNicola, a former Zale Corp. chairman Partners, which provides advice on merg- es as well as building our portfolio.” L.P. Unlike some other private equity fi rms, and ceo and longtime Federated execu- ers, acquisitions and divestitures and often NRDC on Tuesday closed the deal to buy NRDC does not have a standing fund and tive, might have started the trend when is involved in private equity transactions. Lord & Taylor from Federated Depart ment makes personal investments in operat- Apollo Management tapped him to revive Johnson, who headed Saks from 2000 Stores Inc. for $1.083 billion. The private ing companies. It is also distinguished by Zale in 1994. He is now running Linen-N- to 2003, described her role at NRDC as equity fi rm this year also took a minority its roots in real estate. National Realty & Things for Apollo. that of an adviser and a backup for store stake in Linens-N-Things. The majority in- Development owns more than 100 shop- Johnson was the only woman in the management in case of a departure. But vestor is Apollo Management. NRDC, based ping and strip centers, corporate business history of Saks to hold the ceo post. She she stressed, “I am not looking to operate in Purchase, N.Y., has other interests in re- centers and residential communities. began her career at Carson Pirie Scott a company,” and said Jane Elfers would tail companies, which it does not disclose. Typically, private equity fi rms look to sell in Chicago, then joined Marshall Field’s, continue to run L&T, as president and It has completed transactions in excess of their retail properties or take them public where she became senior vice president ceo. Johnson will join L&T’s board. $50 billion, in the retail, leisure, lodging in three to fi ve years. However, Richard and general merchandise manager of the “Christina Johnson brings a wealth of and commercial real estate sectors. Baker said that’s not the NRDC agenda for home store and direct response. In 1991, knowledge and resources to our company,” NRDC is a joint venture between Robert Lord & Taylor. “We have no plans to sell it. she joined Saks, becoming senior vice Baker said. “Her relationships within the C. Baker and his son, Richard, the princi- We want to run it for the next 20 years.” president and regional director of stores retail community and overall expertise in pals of National Realty & Development It won’t be the same chain. The Fifth in the East. She rose to vice chairman and consumer marketing will be a powerful Corp., and William Mack and Lee Neibart, Av enue fl agship, between 38th and 39th chief operating offi cer in 1999, and a year asset for us to grow our acquired business- partners of Apollo Real Estate Advisors Streets, eventually will be downsized, and later took the top job. Investment Group Acquires Loris Azzaro By Samantha Conti and Miles Socha Maceira de Rosen, previously a luxury which had owned the brand from 1995 and retail analyst at J.P. Morgan in London, A look until 2002. PARIS — Private equity strikes again. confi rmed the house would retain designer from Parfums Azzaro — Groupe Clarins’ Reig Capital Group is the new owner of the French Vanessa Seward, who succeeded the house Loris number-two fragrance brand after Thierry fashion house Loris Azzaro and plans to open stores in founder following his death in November Azzaro. Mugler Parfums — clocked double-digit key international markets and develop lucrative catego- 2003. With her glamorous and sparkling growth in the fi rst half of 2006, when it ries like footwear. cocktail and evening dresses, Seward has increased sales 16 percent to 46.9 mil- Based in Barcelona and London, Reig Capital ac- generated strong buzz for the brand and at- lion euros, or $21.6 million at current ex- quired the fi rm from Com pagnie Financiere Frey, which tracted celebrity devotees such as Nicole change. Growth was spurred by the contin- bought the brand in 2002 as part of a drive to expand its Kidman and Penélope Cruz. ued success of its classic scents, including luxury division. Frey is best known for its Champagne, Maceira de Rosen said Reig intends to Chrome, which is ranked seventh in the wine and real estate holdings. widen Az zaro’s rtw offering, which is now U.S., and Azzaro pour Homme. Reig owns the Spanish jewelry brand Vasari, is a centered on high-priced occasion dress- Recent launches include Pink Tonic, partner in the Manolo Blahnik franchised store in ing. Cities such as L.A., London, Moscow a women’s scent; Bright Visit, a fl anker to Madrid and owns and develops luxury hotels with W and Hong Kong are considered targets for its Visit brand, and Jetlag, the men’s scent and Mandarin Oriental. retail stores, “and we’ll also be pushing the and Azzaro’s fi rst travel-retail exclusive Terms of the Azzaro deal were not disclosed, but wholesale strategy,” she said. “As we open that was launched this June. Last year one source valued the deal at less than 20 million stores and increase distribution, the collec- Azzaro introduced Silver Black for men. euros, or $25.6 million at current exchange. tion will widen and grow. In 2005, the brand generated sales of WWD fi rst reported that Azzaro was in play last “Our intention is to keep this invest- 95 million euros, or $121 million, a 4 per- January. Frey was advised by BNP Paribas in Paris. ment for a very long time — it’s not your cent rise year-on-year. More than 91 per- “It’s an iconic brand with a distinct style and time- usual private equity investment,” she con- cent of its business is rung up by men’s less quality — and it has a lot of potential,” said Sagra tinued. “It’s an iconic brand that we love, products. Maceira de Rosen, managing director of Reig’s luxury and the Reig family wants to keep it.” This July, the fi rm signed a deal with and retail division and investment director of Reig Founded in 1962, Azzaro quickly be- The Porsche Design Group, a subsidiary Capital Luxury Partners, the group’s private equity fund. came known for body-hugging gowns, espe- of Porsche, to create and distribute men’s “Luxury ready-to-wear will remain the core of the brand, cially a jersey style with circular cutouts, fragrances. The fi rst scent is scheduled to but we’ll continue to develop footwear and, eventually, worn by the likes of Marisa Beren son. But be introduced in 2008. possibly go into accessories. We’re taking it step-by-step the brand is probably best known for its — With contributions from and really want to get a feel for the business.” men’s fragrances, produced by Clarins, Ellen Groves 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 WWD.COM

Marjorie Blaine Raein in Trump Carolina in Zac Greatest Hit Herrera. Posen. NEW YORK — There was something rather Double poignant about the turnout for Tuesday night’s annual benefi t on behalf of the Elton John AIDS Foundation. Just that morning, The New York The Pleasure Times reported HIV testing had doubled in the last year, but so had HIV-positive diagnoses. hat do the president of Italy and “That’s why tonight is so important for getting the word out WMiami locals have in common? Both there,” said Blaine Trump, one of the many who ventured to the have benefited from the culinary talents Waldorf-Astoria for the foundation, which, so far, has raised of Fabrizio Carro, who was once the more than $100 million to fi ght AIDS. private chef to the Italian leader and is “Young people think that these drugs are a cure, and they’re not, now, along with his identical twin brother, so the education we’re now doing abroad we’ll have to do again Nicola, cooking at the recently opened here,” added Sir Elton John as guests began to sit down for dinner. Quattro Gastronomia Italiana in Miami. Marjorie Raein showed up, too, and, The latest venture from hospitality as it turns out, has quite a history with guru Karim Masri, whose projects have the cause. “I worked at amfAR,” she included the sophisticated Astor hotel said. “It was my job: major gifts and and Cameron Diaz’s successful Asian special events, 1995 to 1997.” boîte Bambu, Quattro boasts a classic Others in the crowd menu and modern interior. included Sophie Dahl “We’re offering a truly authentic, (“I just love to hear him traditional, northern Italian approach, sing,” she said of John), which was something that was lacking in Elvis Costello and Whoopi Miami,” explains Masri, who moved there Goldberg, who not only from London in 1993. “We have chefs that emceed the black-tie affair, have never cooked in America before. but dressed for it, as Our key ingredients, our staples, are all well. Just don’t bank imported from Italy — the fl our, the salt on that happening — to really provide that authenticity and again anytime the tastes of the things we prepare.” soon. “Elton’s the only person I wear clothes like this for,” she said of her gold David Furnish with Sir Elton John. Rose Marie silk Nishiki Bravo in Empire coat by Burberry. Akihiko Izukura.

The interior of Quattro.

Dishes include antipasti like Vitello Sophie Dahl con Crema di Tonno di Favignana e in a LiseLotte Capperi (thinly sliced veal with tuna Westerlund sauce) and primi piatti like Agnolotti jacket and a Piemontesi allo Stufato (house-made Elvis Costello with Diana Krall. Robyn dress. beef ravioli in braised beef sauce). The restaurant’s decor is perhaps more evocative of New York sleek than Brannon’s pieces require multiple Miami glitz, with Murano chandeliers, explorations. His letterpress prints, cognac leather seating and brasserie- GRAPHIC ART which draw their inspiration from fi lm style mirrors, but its location on prime NEW YORK — With a title like “Cum poster templates, juxtapose random shopping street Lincoln Road makes Together,” one might expect to walk objects with seemingly unconnected it perfect for attracting locals and into Matthew Brannon’s solo show at prose poems. A series of six foil press tourists alike. the Friedrich Petzel Gallery and be and silk prints display metallic records Indeed, Quattro’s key ingredients — the confronted by an onslaught of writhing with titles such as “Young Plumbing” and Carro brothers — were onetime tourists naked bodies. But the titillated “Cold Dinner” that easily could be the themselves. One of the restaurant’s co- attending tonight’s opening will be names of hit songs. And his tapestries owners, Nicola Schon, is a vintner in the disappointed, for despite its come- (inspired by the Marimekko room Piedmont region of northern Italy, their hither nomenclature, Brannon’s works dividers his parents loved) combine home. He became familiar with their offer a much quieter — though no less silk-screening with hand-embroidered talents, arranged a tasting in Miami and provocative — experience. images such as bamboo and swordfi sh. convinced them to leave Italy behind A mixture of tapestries, silk screens Brannon, whose work currently can and try their hands in America. The and letterpress prints, the pieces be seen at the Serpentine Gallery in Carro brothers live together, along with combine text and images to explore London and who has an upcoming solo Fabrizio’s wife, and Quattro actually questions of sexual relationships, show at the Whitney’s Altria in March, marks the fi rst time the twins have cooked career ambitions and human attributes his obsession with these non- ensemble in a professional capacity. disconnectedness. fi ne art references and graphic design But for those wondering if the kitchen “It’s actually not a critique of techniques to his rural upbringing. heat mixed with hot southern tempers commercial means more than it is “I’ve always been a fan of the ever produces sibling clashes, Fabrizio using the strategy of fashion or design poster more than the fi lm,” he says. emphatically puts such suspicions to bed. One of Brannon’s tapestries. to camoufl age a more subversive “I think that might come from the “Absolutely not!” he says, sounding content,” explains Brannon, a baby-faced 35-year-old fact that I grew up in Alaska and Idaho and places like horrifi ed at the possibility. “Italian from Idaho. “I like the way that fashion and graphic that where we were always seeing the ad represented style is not like this. We can talk, we design have an immediacy to it on a fi rst read….But I before we had the thing, if we ever had it, so that this can decide together. I’m a pacifi st. My always appreciate the opposite strategy: having a fi rst sort of removal is something I’ve sort of appreciated, brother, too. Nobody fi ghts. Nobody read and then a second read. ” investigated and played with.” uses bad words.” Indeed, much like his complicated explanations, — Vanessa Lawrence — V.L. JOHN PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; QUATTRO BY JERRY RABINOWITZ; BRANNON COURTESY OF FRIEDRICH PETZEL GALLERY COURTESY BRANNON JERRY RABINOWITZ; BY STEVE EICHNER; QUATTRO JOHN PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 5 WWD.COM Inter Parfums Signs Deal With Van Cleef & Arpels By Ellen Groves debut in 2008 — will be in keeping with the jeweler’s luxu- Boulogne, France. The company said it chose to locate ry image. “Jacques Arpels said: ‘The mission of the house a center in Europe because of the European market’s PARIS — Inter Parfums SA has a new gem in its portfolio. is to offer the best,’” Benacin said in the statement. “We importance in setting new product trends for the global The firm has signed a 12-year will vigorously apply that strategy in marketplace. Another factor was the increasing impor- worldwide beauty licensing deal our creative choices, our designs and tance of the European region “as European cosmetics with fi ne jewelry brand Van Cleef & our research into materials to re- laws and regulations become the global standard.” Arpels to take over from YSL Beauté BEAUTY BEAT spect the values of the brand — lux- The Southeast Asia Research Center in Pathumthani, the Van Cleef & Arpels license. ury, happiness, love and serenity.” Thailand, is designed to capitalize on that region’s abun- Van Cleef & Arpels and YSL Beauté have agreed to end dant natural plant ingredients, the company said. their licensing contract in January 2007, the companies Both centers study “the skin types, cosmetics habits, said in a statement Wednesday. The deal was originally Shiseido Opens Two Research Centers aesthetic consciousness and usage preferences of custom- due to expire at the end of 2008. SHISEIDO OPENED TWO NEW RESEARCH CENTERS, ers, as well as adopt unique technologies within these “[We were attracted to Van Cleef because of] the one in Europe and the other in Asia, on Sunday. regions and rapidly integrate them into product develop- quality of the brand, and the fact that we have no jew- By strengthening its research and development capac- ment,” the company said. Each center conducts studies elry brand in our portfolio,” Philippe Benacin, Inter ity on those continents, the Japanese beauty giant seeks to to learn about the characteristics of local consumers, Parfum’s chief executive offi cer, said in an interview raise its overseas business from the 30 percent of net sales including “usage preferences tailored to local climate Wednesday, adding Van Cleef’s profi le has risen in re- it generates, Shiseido said in a statement last Friday. conditions, such as temperature and humidity, as well as cent years. “It’s different from what it was 10 years ago, The new Europe Research Center is based at cosmetics habits unique to the area. it has greater awareness among consumers, it has de- Shiseido’s former European Technology Center site in — E.G. veloped its store network and so the brand is more available.” Inter Parfums SA, the Paris- based subsidiary of Inter Par- fums Inc., and Gucci Group- owned YSL Beauté have agreed on handover terms regarding retail distribution and advertis- ing budgets, meant to ensure a smooth transition, the companies said in the statement. As part of the deal, Inter Parfums will take on YSL Beauté’s remaining Van Cleef stock and YSL will contin- ue packaging Van Cleef products for two years.

Philippe Benacin

“This agreement is part of YSL Beauté’s new strategy, which aims to concentrate its dealings and resources on its priority brands, among which is the Boucheron jewelry house, owned by Gucci Group,” said YSL Beauté’s president and managing director, Chantal Roos, in the statement. She added the agreement also optimizes YSL Beauté’s industrial capacities. “In 1976, with First, Van Cleef & Arpels launched the fi rst jew- elry house fragrance, in keep- ing with the house’s tradition of audacity,” said Stanislas de Quercize, president of Van Cleef & Arpels, in the statement. “It was followed by a long line of fragrances developed with YSL Beauté. In 2006, this agreement with Inter Parfums opens the door to other creative, and always audacious, developments.” Benacin said Inter Parfums plans to grow Van Cleef & Arpels’ fragrance business to between 25 million euros and 30 million euros, or $32 million and $38 million at current exchange, by 2009, from an estimated 14 mil- lion euros to 15 million euros, or $18 million to $19 million, today. He said Van Cleef & Arpels’ strongest fragrance markets today are France, followed by Italy and South America. He singled out North America, the Far East and European countries, in particu- lar the U.K. and Spain, as future growth markets for the brand. Benacin added that products created for Van Cleef — the fi rst of which, a women’s scent, will 6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 Reality Check Valentino Real clothes dominated the scene at Christian Dior some surprising houses, including Christian Dior, and less unexpectedly at Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld.

Christian Dior: John Galliano is not a halfway kind of guy. When he grasps a motif, he runs with it. After years of fi elding criticism for those wondrous theatrical extravaganzas in which he often gave not a whit of attention to real clothes, he has now swung over — all the way over — to the other side. Putting the focus on the merch was the reason he took his resort collection to New York, to great fanfare, last May; now, he’s brought the notion to Paris. The Christian Dior collection he showed on Tuesday night was all about real clothes for real stores — and not just in the fashion capitals — a point Galliano delivered with blunt clarity and a great big “take that” to his critics. His spring message was concise: a smart, discreet suit for day, a beautifully draped dress for PARIS night. Despite their aura of reserve courtesy of subtle, neutral-toned fabrics, the suits bore considerable interest — an arm slit on one, a bold rounded shoulder on another and often, a measure of Christian Dior tone-on-tone embroidery defi ning the jacket. These looked refi ned and completely above the fashion fray, clothes for women who care far more about dressing well than looking trendy. Galliano made the transition into evening with white jersey pieces embellished with small metal hoops and with sweet little embroidered dresses. As for his grandest looks, relative to the lavishness that once commanded even his ready-to-wear runways, these, too, radiated calm, yet with impeccable intricacies of cut and fl ou delicately sprinkled with crystals and beading.

Valentino: Space babes? Robot warriors? Some women couldn’t give a hoot. All they want is a pretty dress, nicely worked with a soupçon of feminine je ne sais quoi. For spring, as always, Valentino is their guy. The collection he showed on Wednesday provided a fl ourish of fl ourishes in all manner of grown-up fl uff worked with ruffl es, bows and endless tiers, delivered in a palette colorful enough to keep a girl positively giddy, if at times a bit dizzy. By day, Valentino kept the clothes short and sweet, diversifying his fl yaway shapes with the occasional chic shift or a sportif shorts set. And mixed in was a sly naughtiness, as in the white dress inset with two peekaboo grids, one offering a through-the-latticework look at that which a Val gal typically reserves for her husband and her GYN. By night, there were gowns galore, from romantic printed slips to white lacy confections that could transport her back to her deb days.

Karl Lagerfeld: In the fi rst season since his New York experiment, Karl Lagerfeld brought his signature collection back to Paris — and back to its roots. He put that brief, brooding- Belgian moment behind him, and in stark black and white took his look sharp and graphic. Wielding Fashion Scoops just a hint of dark Eighties edge in its details, with notched straps and strips HELENA’S ANGEL: Rumor has it that Helena Rubinstein, of patent, the collection’s core was made the L’Oréal-owned beauty brand, will soon have a new up of scores of dresses: fi lmy layered gowns face — none other than Demi Moore. It’s no wonder:

▲ and pretty minis. Cotton baby-doll dresses Mrs. Kutcher keeps on looking younger and younger. Christian Dior were cut with sharp fl at ruffl es, while L’Oréal executives could not immediately be reached for Lagerfeld swagged and wrapped in jersey. comment. But aside from the occasional outlandish fl ourish, including a poufed Imelda Marcos BLUE BLOOD: Although parent Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. put the

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DAVE YODER GIANNONI AND DAVE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY sleeve, Lagerfeld focused on real, wearable clothes. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Valentino ▲

▲ Karl Lagerfeld

kabosh on his New York contemporary label FRONT LINES: Some noses might be out of joint TOWER OF FLOWER: Dries Van Noten is seeing la earlier this year, Karl Lagerfeld has yet to get blue at Alexander McQueen’s show Friday night. The vie en rose. The designer decorated a towering jeans and T-shirts out of his system. Backstage venue — the Cirque d’Hiver — is confi gured wall inside the Beaux Arts with 130,000 pink at his signature show on Wednesday morning, so there are only 38 front-row seats for the fl owers for his show on Wednesday. A team Lagerfeld revealed he’s launching a jeans line international press, about one-third the typical of 13 helpers worked through the night to next season. “I’m an H&M person,” he said, allotment. Only editors in chief, plus certain place the dahlias, gerberas, hydrangeas and referring to his blockbuster 2004 collaboration important critics, will get the prime spots, a lisianthus in shades of pink on the runway’s with the Swedish fast-fashion retailer, which McQueen spokesman said. The second row will backdrop. Dreamed up by Belgium fl oral brought the designer to the masses. He said have to suffi ce for many major editors, while designer Daniël Ost, the display was a farewell Blooming the name of the label has yet to be determined, retailers have been allocated the third row. bouquet to the venue, where Dries Van Noten at Dries but it could be just Karl Lagerfeld. “I’m tired of And for mere mortals? Box seats. has shown his collection for fi ve years. Van Noten. complicated names,” he said. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 Athletic, Artistic and Audacio Stylish workout gear, rock-inspired tailored Andrew Gn Costume pieces and elaborately trimmed dresses and National boleros were among the intriguing looks in Paris.

Dries Van Noten: The setup — dry petals pressed into the invitations and a runway backed by 130,000 pink fl owers — promised one of Dries Van Noten’s exuberant fl ights of fancy. But instead of relying on overt ornamentation and far-fl ung fantasy, Van Noten’s terrifi c collection was an exercise in control, one that exuded the quiet confi dence of knowing cool, and it offered oh- so-much to wear. The look was scaled back, by Van Noten standards. He wrung incredible chic out of an athletic theme, interspersing his workout gear with moments of restrained embellishment. On the sporty side, silk anoraks and sequined track jackets topped slouchy tanks and cropped pants. Shorts were banded with thick elastic. Loose dresses were done up with a drawstring around the waist, and such takes on the season’s fuller volumes struck just the right chord. When Van Noten wanted to indulge a little, he went utterly romantic with embroidered sack dresses printed with giant fl owers. They were the perfect expression of Dries in bloom.

Akris: Albert Kriemler looked to Rudi Gernreich’s bare- as-you-dare swimsuits for inspiration this season. While today’s Akris clients may or may not have been bold enough to wear the Gernreich original, they’re probably old enough to remember it. Kriemler has a good thing going at Akris — booming sales, and the respect of the retailers who count on him for sensible luxe clothes. So why he decided to up the artsy quotient with a collection based on a severe plunging neckline, among other tricks, is anyone’s guess. When Kriemler dropped the fantasy, he showed polished clothes PARIS with a subtle edge that made more sense for his customer. A simple strapless dress was clean and angular. Another, overlaid with a transparent ▲

grid, put across his graphic ideas to ▲ Dries Van Noten good effect. And a tan pantsuit was as Dries Van neat and as trim as any of Kriemler’s Noten best. Though there weren’t enough of them, these are the clothes he should do — and does so well.

Costume National: “I wanted to mix technology and tradition,” explained Costume National designer Ennio Capasa of his sharp-edged spring collection balanced with a hint of romanticism. “I wanted it to be forward-looking, but also to have a feminine, sensual touch.” Sticking to a monochromatic palette of gray, rose, blue, black and hot pink, Capasa achieved this with high-tech silks and leathers that had been laminated or transformed into refl ective stripes. Though his silhouette incorporated a softer side than in recent seasons, it remained sexy, with lean trousers in silver leather and short satin dresses gently draped in front, or billowing open at the back.

Andrew Gn: Girls, in Andrew Gn’s world, want to shine when they get gussied up. In his sparkling collection, Gn provided his femmes with exactly what they’re Costume after. Though the designer said simplicity guided his National hand, not everyone may share his idea of plainness. Gn’s trademark coats, for instance, came embroidered WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Ann Demeulemeester Sophia Kokosalaki Issey ous Miyake

Bless Agnès b. ▲

▲ Akris PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI, THIERRY CHOMEL AND STEFANO BIANCHI MAESTRI, THIERRY CHOMEL AND STEFANO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

with patent leather sequins, with python- lady. Yet she still found time to design a pretty trimmed cuffs or embellished with big enough collection for spring, full of airy cocktail Georgina Brandolini: rock crystals. A black dress was decked frocks as well as slim trousers, a safari jacket It’s all in the details at out with a serpent that slithered seductively and a handkerchief-hem trench. Kokosalaki more from Georgina Brandolini, around the body, and one bolero boasted kept the draping action to a relative minimum, where highlights so many metal beads and crystals that indulging instead in tight swirling grooves for a included a short- Gn christened it a “chandelier.” Despite romantic touch. The harder, edgier trappings, sleeved cashmere top the decorative fi reworks, Gn’s silhouettes however — dresses with leather bustiers or the shows embroidered with a coral-and-jade cross, remained fi rmly old school, from the fl irty armor-like ruching — left much to be desired. Lutz trapeze dresses and silk halter tops to the a crochet-bordered fl owing goddess gowns in pleated gold lamé Issey Miyake: A desert rose wove its way through twinset and a deep that rounded out this confi dent collection. Naoki Takizawa’s collection for Issey Miyake, orange cardigan from the psychedelic rose-print splashed over the trimmed with pearls. Ann Demeulemeester: Halfway through Ann house’s signature pleats to the woven jacquard Demeulemeester’s ethereal show, Patti Smith roses that climbed its washed denim looks. But Lutz: Lutz Huelle began to read a poem live backstage over the theme also took a thorny turn with punky channeled a dressy vibe dreamy music. For anybody who has followed spikes sprouting from the seams of an asymmetric for spring, featuring Demeulemeester over her two-decade career skirt and loosely cut pantsuits. white skirts layered (she was celebrating her anniversary with this with black chiffon, show), the performance left little doubt of the link Agnès b.: Agnès Trouble celebrated 30 years in jackets tied with chiffon between the androgynous, tailored looks on the the biz for her sportswear brand on Wednesday, scarves and a play on runway and the Belgian designer’s longtime muse. accompanied by a solo from the house’s rocker- the tuxedo pant, its leg As much as Demeulemeester has evolved in her muse Patti Smith. Riffs on house classics stripe snaking its way career, she’s also remained startlingly true to her included paper macs dotted with glitter; cotton around twisted baggy rock-inspired aesthetic. This time, it was tempered overalls; basics edged with dandy-rock frills, pants. with what she termed an ode to “poets and and subtle rococo touches that are a wink at writers.” That meant masculine coats softened with Trouble’s childhood spent near Versailles. Loëwe: Taking the draping details in back and vests with superposed Spanish house on a patterns of stripes. Lacy leggings, billowing Bless: Celebrating a decade of their Bless label, futuristic-Sixties spin, blouses, a black sculptural fl oor-sweeping dress German designers Desirée Heiss and Ines Kaag designer Jose Enrique and vests made of strands of pearls gave the right celebrated in fi ne style with a block party to Ona Selfa worked dose of delicacy to Demeulemeester’s celebration launch a book devoted to their self-proclaimed psychedelic fl ower of her deep-rooted style. “themelessness.” Though the clothes they prints onto belted silk showed, with their usual creative twists, were tunics and showed so Sophia Kokosalaki: With her recent Nine fun, it was the new shop they’ve opened in the many polished white West collaboration and the upcoming Vionnet Marais, where the happening was held, that had mini smock dresses relaunch, Sophia Kokosalaki has been one busy most people jumping with enthusiasm. Georgina Brandolini that one lost count. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Dish FDJ Aids Cancer Research Habitual Gets Groovy FDJ French Dressing is breaking its own fund-rais- Actress Milla Jovovich and business partner Carmen ing records. Hawk have denim on the brain. The Canadian sportswear label raised $244,000 The co-founders of contemporary sportswear line in its fourth annual “FDJ French Dressing Jovovich-Hawk have teamed with premium denim International Dragon Boats for the Cure” event brand Habitual to design a capsule denim collection in July, funds that will be donated to breast-can- called Habitual by Jovovich-Hawk, hitting high-end cer organizations throughout the U.S. and Canada. specialty retailers such as Barneys New York for This year’s three-day event took place in Windsor, spring selling. Ontario, included a run and walks and saw a 60 The line features a variety of percent improvement compared with last year’s Sixties- and Seventies-inspired race, which raised $151,000. The event has raised denim pieces, like high-rise fl are more than $533,000 in the last four years. jeans with patchwork details, a “Every year, it amazes me how these formida- Janis Joplin-inspired mini vest ble women who have overcome this disease band with floral embroidery details together to help us raise money to fund the search and short-shorts with cosmic em- for a cure,” FDJ president Len Miller said in a broideries on the rear pockets. statement. The pieces will wholesale from The company said that the relationship between $120 to $180. dragon-boat racing and breast cancer developed “Denim was really on our minds from the work of Canadian physician Don McKenzie. since we introduced it in our own In 1995, McKenzie found that the arm exercise re- line for the fi rst time,” Hawk said. quired to paddle a boat was benefi cial to breast-can- “But the Habitual line is great, cer patients suffering from swelling in the arms and and we were really happy to work legs caused by the accumulation of lymphatic fl uid, with them since these were jeans Here and below: a condition known as lymphedema. As a result, drag- that we wear all the time.” Looks from on-boat races for breast-cancer patients and survi- Jovovich was busy shoot- C.enne.V. vors have become popular around the world. ing a fi lm over the past few More than 300 survivors and 70 corporate months, but took time out to teams took part in this year’s events. Each boat collaborate on the line. holds 20 paddlers “It was a really fun pro- A New Plus for Premium Breast cancer survivors at and a drummer cess, working on the embroi- For Cheyenne Valenzuela, launching her own denim this year’s event. who sets the pace dery, which was really intri- line was as much a result of personal necessity as for the 400-meter cate, hand-done and special,” locating a market niche. race. A portion of Jovovich said. “The fi t is fan- “I’ve always been a size 12 or 14, and it’s always the funds raised tastic. I wore them on four air- been diffi cult to fi nd great clothes,” Valenzuela said. is distributed planes recently and they still “It’s such an underserved market.” to the teams of kept their shape. I got so many So last month, the Los Angeles-based designer breast-cancer compliments, and they don’t get launched C.enne.V, a capsule collection of denim survivors to do- all stretched out.” jeans in trendy styles made specifi cally for women nate to their local While the Habitual denim is sizes 12 to 24. Valenzuela said she came up with the cancer centers. different from Jovovich-Hawk’s business plan during her last year of graduate school — Ross Tucker denim, Jovovich said working at the University of Southern California and has a with Habitual helped her learn fi rm strategy in place. more about using the fabric. “Right now it’s a denim line, but I’m working on “The Habitual line looks tops and corduroy pants that will be launched in great with our collection, since December,” she said. we didn’t take our jeans over the Beyond that, Valenzuela’s objectives include get- top in this way,” Hawk said. “Ours ting the collection into stores other than the exclu- are much more understated.” sively plus-size retailers where it is currently sold. — Julee Greenberg “We have two main distribution channels right

now, with the plus-size stores and through online ▼ sales,” she said. “But ultimately, my goal is to be in A denim jacket and jeans with mainstream boutiques, which only requires accep- hippie-inspired embroideries. tance. Some of the more progressive stores know this is a great market, that big girls go in with their small friends, and so they put a variety of sizes in the stores. But it’s still minimal. It’s frustrating because we spend money, and we want to look good, too.” Paige Denim Faces Legal Fight The collection is available in a handful of stores in Canada, New York, Los Angeles and Sacramento, Swimwear designer Ashley Paige and jeans company Paige Premium Calif. The key difference between Valenzuela’s Denim are in a legal battle over rights to the Paige name. jeans and other plus-size brands is in the fi t. Her Ashley Paige fi led a lawsuit last week in U.S. District Court, Central styles come in two fi ts: one that caters to the “apple- District of California, alleging that the denim brand’s use of Paige in- shaped” body and the other to the “pear-shaped.” fringes on Ashley Paige’s trademark and hurts sales. The lawsuit does “I wanted to make clothes for bigger girls but cus- not specify the amount of damages sought. tomized to whatever they’re more comfortable in,” “She [Ashley Paige] has been going under the Paige name for a Valenzuela said. “In the premium denim category, long time, and the jeans company comes along and takes advantage of there is nothing really out there for this size range.” that,” said attorney Timothy Reuben. “We feel very strongly that she Wholesale prices range from $81 to $85. owns these rights [to the Paige name,] and we are seeking to protect Valenzuela hopes that for their money, customers get those rights.” the kind of look that their size-2 friends fi nd easily. Rod Berman, a lawyer for Paige Premium Denim, compared Habitual by “It took one and a half years to launch the col- Paige Premium Denim’s and Ashley Paige’s use of Paige with Tommy Jovovich- lection because I was working on the fi t that entire Hilfi ger’s and Tommy Bahama’s use of the name Tommy. “The Ashley Hawk’s time,” she said. “That, for me, was the key: I wanted Paige position is meritless,’’ he said. “There are a lot of Paiges out denim vest the women who wear this to be comfortable in what there.” and high- they have on.” Paige Premium Denim fi led an application almost two years ago waist jeans. Valenzuela said her objective was to be in 30 to 40 with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Offi ce to trademark the name Paige stores by the end of 2007. across various apparel categories. In 2005, Ashley Paige kicked off a — Kavita Daswani similar effort to protect the “Ashley Paige” moniker and also to block Paige Premium Denim from securing the rights to Paige. With the trademark offi ce action pending, Paige Premium Denim went into federal court, seeking a judgment that the company’s handling of the name was appropriate. That move halted the trademark offi ce process and prompted the Ashley Paige lawsuit. Ashley Paige has its own shop on Cahuenga Boulevard in Hollywood and is primarily recognized for knit one pieces and bikinis, which have been frequently shown at L.A. Fashion Week and are sold at specialty shops and high-end department stores. Paige Premium Denim is an arm of Fortune Casuals LLC, a Culver City, Calif.-based company cofounded by Fred Kayne, chairman of Big Dog Holdings and a former managing director at Bear, Stearns & Co. Former Miss California and fi t model Paige Adams-Geller launched Paige Premium Denim in 2005 and soon started selling jeans in spe- cialty stores, department stores and at a namesake boutique on Robertson Boulevard. — Rachel Brown WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 11 WWD.COM The Beat Indian Princess Breaks Out With a Contemporary Line By Julee Greenberg Nupur ▲ upur Jordon may not be your traditional Indian princess, but Jordon she certainly is living the fairy tale. models N Born Nupur Rana Jaisl Kapoor Pratup Singh Jordon, prin- a cotton cess of Jaislmer in Rajasthan, India, Jordon was never a girl to top and stay in one place. Now living in Paris and commuting to New skirt from York once a month, Jordon is clearly an eager businesswoman. her spring She just launched her own contemporary sportswear line, called Nupur Paris Nupur Paris, for spring and pulls pieces off a rack with a huge collection. smile on her face. “Retailers are really liking the line, and I think it’s because it’s something different on the fl oor,” she said, pointing out a white linen embroidered dress with white coral stones placed around the neckline. “The idea is to have a line full of the clothes that I want to wear. That has always Jordon and Frederic Tron at their wedding in Saint-Tropez. Jordon been what I wanted to do,” she said. designed her dresses and changed three times during the reception. The line also features silk chiffon dresses and skirts, as well as cotton shorts, skirts sitting in her new showroom at 463 Seventh Avenue in and tops. Clearly inspired by her heritage, New York. “She really isn’t happy with any of my choic- Jordon holds up a white cotton skirt with an es. She didn’t want to see me in fashion — she wanted embroidered picture of horses. CENTENO TALAYA SHOWROOM PHOTOS BY me to do something political, something to help India.” “This is a painting that hangs in my While Jordon said she loves her native country and mom’s palace,” she explained. “I always has even started the Nupur Foundation to help Indian admired it.” orphans live better lives, she always believed in her The clothing line, Jordon said, has al- ability to become a fashion designer. To do that, she ready been picked up by Barneys New knew she had to leave India. York, Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth “When I was 16, I came to New York on holiday, and Avenue. It wholesales from $30 to $300. I never went back,” she said. In addition to the apparel, Jordon With the help of her uncle, El Jordon, who lived in has a line of fi ne jewelry, ranging from New York and worked in the textile business, Jordon beaded ruby necklaces to vintage-in- was able to stay in the city, fi nish school, graduate from spired pearl and diamond rings. That the Fashion Institute of Technology and then move line, which goes for up to $8,000 retail, to Paris to attend the Paris Fashion Institute at Cité is also called Nupur Paris and sells at Jordon in one of her necklaces, Universitaire, where she studied couture. specialty boutiques, in addition to Le Bon available at Le Bon Marché in Paris. While her parents disapproved of the decisions their Marché in Paris. daughter made, Jordon continued to speak to her fami- Jordon said she expects to reach more ly over the years. Then she met Frederic Tron, a French than $1 million in wholesale volume by the end of the year. real estate investor who would become her husband. The two married in Now 31, she said that, according to her parents, she did Saint-Tropez just three weeks ago, and her parents were not there. Her almost everything wrong and against the traditional values uncle walked her down the aisle, and her parents vowed to never speak to they instilled in her since birth. As their only child, Jordon’s her again. She even designed her own wedding dresses, three of them, that parents urged her to stay in India, marry an Indian man and she wore during the event. someday pursue a career in politics. “One of the dresses was a strapless chiffon in a beautiful blue,” she “My mother is not happy with my career choices,” Jordon explained, explained. “It was the color of the Mediterranean Sea.”

A spring jacket from Mike & Chris Reinvents the Hoodie Mike & Chris. ike Gonzalez and Christine Park-Gonzalez are taking the hoodie to a new Mike & level. Chris will M The husband-and-wife team knew exactly which direction to take when they de- introduce cided to launch a contemporary clothing label. The line, Mike & Chris, is based on more long taking a simple hoodie and giving it a bit of a downtown edge. It’s heavily inspired T-shirts by their former careers — he was a fashion photographer working in New York and in the Paris, she was a writer and model — and the need for laid-back, chic clothes. spring. “We just thought about how everyone really loves the comfort of a good hoodie,” Gonzalez said. “And we see so much potential in the item, it can be made into so many different things.” And that’s what they’ve done. Mike & Chris, now in stores such as Scoop, Henri Bendel, Barneys New York, Fred Segal and Ron Herman, consists of washed leather hoodies, which have become the line’s signature, and supersoft fl eece hoodies in antiqued colors detailed with oversize buttons and antique brass eyelets. The de- signers also created hoodies made of soft, lightweight lambskin lined with classic cotton men’s shirtings. For spring, the company has an array of new products, in- cluding T-shirts, vests and coats for women. There also will be a full men’s wear col- lection in addition to a large selection of leather and canvas utility bags. Wholesale A look prices for apparel range from $45 to $140 and for bags, from $135 to $480. from Although the brand was launched last holiday, the collection has grown dramati- the new cally since then, from six styles to the 43 being introduced for spring. For next fall, men’s Gonzalez said he will launch bottoms to complement the hoodies, and a sweater line. collection. “In an industry that is inundated with sweatshirt and jacket lines, it’s a cool new twist on an old idea,’’ said John Eshaya, vice president and creative director of Ron Herman Inc., Los Angeles. “The designs are interesting, and the leather is washed so it feels like you’re wearing a sweatshirt when you’re wearing a leather jacket.” Eshaya said customers have been demanding more products from Mike & Chris. “We always have a waiting list for the leather jackets,” he said. Gonzalez said the company generates about $4 million in annual wholesale vol- ume, but he expects that to increase to about $7 million or $8 million with the prod- uct expansions. “Some retailers are asking for more product at a fast pace,” he said. “But we want to make sure everything is 100 percent right and we don’t want to get ahead of ourselves.” — J.G. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 WWD.COM

The price of prime street-front retail real estate space is climbing these days, according to Boston-based Colliers International’s 2006 report, TheWWDList “Retail Real Estate Highlights.” And while retailers continue to thrive in suburban locations, they have also been opting for space in urban environments. The report found that 75 percent of metropolitan areas across the country show urban retail continuing to grow. “Retail development in both suburban and urban locations is about as balanced as you can get,” said Ross Moore, director of economic and market research for Colliers. “But the clear message here [is]: Rents everywhere are Takin’ It to the Streets going up. With the rising costs of both land and construction materials, The most expensive retail streets in the U.S. ranked by rent per square foot. we don’t anticipate a drop in prices anytime soon.” — Cecily Hall

FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK Rent per square foot: $1,000 New York’s famed Fifth Avenue shopping strip again ranked number one, increasing its average rent by $50 per square foot. “If you don’t have a New York City address, you’re not a serious player,” said Ross Moore of Colliers. Why? “One of the trends you see is that retailing is becoming more global. If you look at Fifth Avenue [and 57th Street] today, of course you’ll fi nd a number of U.S. retailers, but compared to 10 1 years ago, we’re now seeing more and more global retailers.” Think Cartier (left), Louis Vuitton, Versace and Bulgari. “Pick a country — it’s well represented if it’s a large global retailer.”

GEARY STREET/UNION SQUARE, SAN FRANCISCO Rent per square foot: $515 A fashionable spot located in the shopping district of San Francisco’s Union Square (left), Geary Street also offers several upscale restaurants and luxury hotels. In February, Agent Provocateur opened a lingerie store on Geary Street, while other brands such as Salvatore 2 Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs boast locations in the area.

RODEO DRIVE, LOS ANGELES Rent per square foot: $360 * The top-ranked streets have a common link: They all attract a high amount of tourism. “God bless the tourists,” said Moore of Colliers. Rodeo Drive is one of the most popular and well-known streets in the world, and visitors to Southern California are sure to check out the strip at some point during their vacation. And because it’s located in Beverly Hills — one of the priciest regions of the country — residents 3 can enjoy a quick trip to shops such as Hermès (left), Prada, Escada, Dior, Valentino and Versace.

KALAKAUA AVENUE, HONOLULU Rent per square foot: $360 * Also known as “Luxury Row,” Honolulu’s Kalakaua Avenue doubled its rent to $360 per square foot this year. “When you see movement like this, the overriding issue is purely demand,” said Moore. “Tourism is skyrocketing, hotels are full, demand is high.” This retail strip is located in the heart of Waikiki and offers over 111,000 square feet of retail to shoppers. Popular destinations include Gucci, Bottega Veneta and 4 Coach (left). In addition, Chanel’s 12,000-square-foot, three-level fl agship can be found here.

NORTH MICHIGAN AVENUE, CHICAGO Rent per square foot: $245 The Windy City’s “Magnifi cent Mile” is just that — a one-mile stretch of shops galore, located right along North Michigan Avenue. One can fi nd everything from designer boutiques such as Chanel, Max Mara and Bulgari to department stores like Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. In fact, over 460 shops reside along the Mile, along with several hotels, such as Le Meridien Chicago and The Drake, 5 where shoppers can crash at the end of a long day.

LAS VEGAS BOULEVARD, LAS VEGAS Rent per square foot: $210 “Vegas just keeps getting bigger and bigger,” said Moore. “The interest in retail here coincides with the onslaught of restaurants, casinos and shows along this street.” Vegas has defi nitely taken on a life of its own. Moore also noted that much of the retail located here is in malls and inside of the casinos that line the strip. Examples: the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, the Grand Canal Shops at the Venetian and the Wynn 6 Esplanade shops at Wynn Las Vegas, which all make for some heavy-duty upscale shopping during a trip to Vegas. H. WELLS/CORBIS S VEGAS BOULEVARD BY RICHARD BY S VEGAS BOULEVARD

WESTHEIMER ROAD, HOUSTON Rent per square foot: $150 Designer boutiques are showcased along this upscale strip of Houston. Tootsies Highland Village carries both formal and everyday wear for women, while Festari for Men’s Italian-only line caters to the fashionable men in the area. Both Etui and Leonard Rutan Ladies Apparel also boast plenty of classic and fashionable styles for women. Perhaps the other big attraction on Westheimer is Houston’s Galleria Mall (left), one of the largest in the 7 country, with 2.4 million square feet of retail space. The Galleria holds over 375 stores and restaurants, including anchors Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Designer shops such as Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and Betsey Johnson give the Galleria its upscale reputation.

STEVENS CREEK BOULEVARD, SAN JOSE, CALIF. Rent per square foot: $120 A walking tour along this street in California will let you shop at all types of stores. From designer boutiques to discount shops, consumers can rest assured they’ll fi nd what they’re looking for along Stevens Creek Boulevard. Westfi eld Valley Fair mall, at 2855 Stevens Creek, 8 is home to close to 400 retailers — new tenants include Gap subsidiaries Forth & Towne and Old Navy. Soon to come: Juicy Couture, The North Face and New York & Co. Another popular destination is Santana Row (left), which offers a wide selection of over 70 shops, including everything from Gucci to Ann Taylor Loft to Crate & Barrel.

WALNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA Rent per square foot: $100 Yes, upscale shopping is a fun pastime, even for a city known for cheesesteaks, “Rocky” and the Liberty Bell. Along Walnut Street, Burberry, Zara, Brooks Brothers and Kiehl’s line this retail haven. Philadelphia is home to the Urban Outfi tters conglomerate, so it’s only fi tting Walnut Street houses one (left), along with its women’s apparel and housewares chain Anthropologie. Also located along Walnut Street are 9 plenty of upscale dining joints, including Le Bec-Fin and Alma de Cuba, in case shoppers become weak during their spree here.

PROSPECT STREET/GIRARD AVENUE, SAN DIEGO Rent per square foot: $90 Dubbed the “Rodeo Drive” of San Diego, Prospect Street at Girard Avenue — located in ritzy La Jolla — is heavy on art galleries and restaurants, as well as high-end designer boutiques. Shops such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Cartier are represented here. An added bonus: San Diego’s idyllic weather allows shoppers to spend the entire day outdoors exploring Prospect Street. They can end the day with a walk to 10 the ocean, conveniently located just a stone’s throw from this retail mecca. CUMMINS/CORBIS; WESTHEIMER ROAD BY DANNY LEHMAN/CORBIS; STEVENS CREEK BOULEVARD COURTESY OF SANTANA ROW; WALNUT STREET BY DAVID STREET BY ROW; WALNUT OF SANTANA COURTESY DANNY LEHMAN/CORBIS; STEVENS CREEK BOULEVARD CUMMINS/CORBIS; WESTHEIMER ROAD BY SOURCE: COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, A BOSTON-BASED REAL ESTATE BROKERAGE COMPANY; *INDICATES A TIE LA LANDAU/CORBIS; ROBERT BEEBE/CORBIS; RODEO DRIVE BY MORTON BY IMAGES; GEARY STREET DON EMMERT/AFP/GETTY PHOTO BY FIFTH AVENUE

14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 WWD.COM Cerruti’s Taralis: Going Chic and Sharp Tommy Hilfi ger Enters Paris PARIS — Wearing a black leather jacket, black jeans my own way; I see Cerruti as being very architec- and heavy motorcycle boots, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, tural and quite rigorous: chic and sharp.” With Rue Saint Honoré Shop his hair swept low across his brow, strides into the Though largely unknown except by his devotees, Café de Flore here looking the picture of rock chic. Taralis, who studied at Parsons School of Design in The soft-spoken, Canadian-born designer, 30, New York and the University of Vienna, has been wiggles into a red banquette, orders coffee and considered a rising star ever since he launched his starts to explain his formative plans to revive the signature collection in 2004. Before that, he assist- dusty house of Cerruti, which hired him in August ed Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme for three years. as artistic director. His look is anchored in sharp, androgynous tai- “Cerruti’s been through tough times,” he said. loring. Recently, Taralis took more feminine and “It’s a real challenge for me and I’m excited to see sophisticated directions. His fall collection, for what I can bring to the house.” example, featured blouses that fl uttered open at Indeed, it’s been tough chez Cerruti ever since the back and sweeping tweed capes. the company was purchased in 2000 by the now un- “I’m not so interested in women that are soft raveled Italian conglomerate Fin.Part, which tore around the edges,” he said. “I want to bring out a through designers from David Cardona to Roberto woman’s inner strength.” Menichetti in its failed attempt to get on track. At Cerruti, Taralis’ debut is likely to be a men’s A new chance at posterity arrived last August, show in January, to be followed by women’s later when a $3.8 billion private equity fi rm called next year. MatlinPatterson acquired the house. Taralis and “I’m very happy to be returning to men’s wear,” chief executive offi cer Philippe Cleach were hired he said. “Men’s is the essence of the brand, and The Tommy Hilfi gerger flfl agshipagship onon RueRue SaintSaint HonoréHonoré inin Paris.Paris. to oversee its renaissance. I’ve always approached women’s wear with the Though Taralis has yet to start in earnest at sensibility of a men’s wear designer.” Cerruti — he’ll assemble a team after he shows That might be his link with the brand’s founder, his signature collection Friday — he already has Nino Cerruti. In any case, Taralis hopes to mine more than a few notions of how he wants to pilot Nino Cerruti’s expertise. “We recently dined in it into the future. Milan,” he related. “He achieved a lot. There’s “I don’t want to be too referential,” he offered. still a lot for me to learn. I hope that [Cerruti and “I don’t think it’s modern. I want to look at the I] can talk again soon.” house’s past, but I want to be free to interpret it in — Robert Murphy

UNFORTUNATE co-chairman, Sony Pictures Entertainment, rose to RANK: Seems 41 from 42. — Stephanie D. Smith MEMO PAD like female chief executives ON THE FLY: “Fly,” a limited-edition $500 DVD that of media companies are losing their infl uence when is a montage of fashion- and art-inspired short fi lms, it comes to Fortune’s most recent rankings of the interviews, documentaries and music videos, is ready By Emilie Marsh Black-and-white photographs 50 Most Powerful Women in Business — even Ann to take fl ight with a launch party Friday at L’Eclaireur of New York and vintage ad- Moore, chief executive offi cer of Fortune’s parent in Paris. Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, Stella McCartney’s Tommy Hilfiger has raised its vertising posters underline the Time Inc. Moore fell in the rankings to 15 from husband Alasdhair Willis and Rick Owens are among red, white and blue flag in the Americana vibe. 13 last year, leading a tumble by all the top brass the guests expected. middle of Paris Fashion Week “But it wouldn’t be a Paris at magazine publishers. Martha Stewart dropped to Following this year’s sellout of the prototype, with its first French flagship. store without a bit of Parisian 28 from 21 in 2005 and Cathleen Black fell to 38 “Fly” has compiled the fi rst offi cial issue, The 5,200-square-foot Paris elegance,” Arts noted. Antique from 34 last year. Additionally, the enduring Oprah “Words Remembered,” a compilation of works unit, which opens today at 368 display units, Napoleonic love Winfrey fell to eight from four last year; Judy McGrath, by photographers, fashion designers, fi lmmakers, Rue Saint Honoré, is the brand’s seats and an imposing glass chairman/ceo, MTV Networks, fell to 12 from 10, artists, musicians and animators that runs 160 first freestanding retail foray chandelier add a touch of and Stacey Snider, ceo of Viacom’s Dreamworks SKG, minutes end-to-end. Not adhering to any set formula into France, where it hopes its European elegance, while cozy took the biggest plunge to 50 from 33 last year. is one of the beauties of “Fly,” whose roster of tailored fashions, classic sports- waiting areas with colossal So what’s the magazine’s beef with media contributors for the upcoming issue includes Karl wear and iconic American style couches in the women’s depart- executives? “Every year there are new women Lagerfeld, Alex Cayley, Thomas Schenk, Vanina will strike a chord with its grow- ment offer a soft touch. elbowing their way on the list — this year there Sorrenti, John Malkovich and Paolo Zambaldi. Upping ing European clientele. The The women’s apparel range are nine, latest year there were 12,” explained the fashion quota are Hussein Chalayan, Boudicca’s fi rm, now based in Amsterdam, includes pique polo shirts priced Cait Murphy, Fortune’s assistant managing editor, Gray Scott, Thom Browne, Zac Posen and Alice Roi, all also recently opened fl agships at 55 euros, or $70 at current who helped edit the package. “To keep your place of whom leaped on board with logo-less short fi lms in Florence and Milan. exchange; cashmere sweaters means you need to have done something good that featuring their respective collections. Saint Honoré is proving to be priced from 180 euros to 250 year to make room for these fantastic women.” Screenings of the new issue will be held Oct. 24 a coveted location for American euros, or $229.50 to $318.75, and And, face it, 2006 hasn’t at the Core Club in New York and some fashion brands. Brooks Brothers more tailored looks for a quality- been a great year for most media time in November at Restir in Tokyo. opened its fl agship just down the conscious European shoppers: fi t- companies. In Stewart’s case, said Each fi lm focuses on one designer’s block earlier this month. ted blazers made in Italy for 605 Murphy, “her show was canceled, collection and allows viewers to “There is a certain quality euros, or $771, and a cashmere she has these new branding things” consider the respective work in an level required for a diffi cult and coat for 890 euros, or $1,134. — like a line of homes with builder unconventional way and free from any demanding European market,” “Our goal is to make a strong KB Home — “but those were advertising. A fi lm made by Calvin said Michael Arts, European vice statement in the women’s busi- untested. At one point her stock was Klein even made its way into the president of brand management ness in Europe,” said Arts. The below its IPO price. It’s hard to say debut issue. The opportunity to create at Tommy Hilfi ger. “The stores in denim corner is also expected it was a great year for her, and I bet a fi lm has appealed to a number of Europe are less logo-oriented. We to lure shoppers. Arts noted the she would agree with that.” designers, said editor in chief Stephen strive to enhance the silhouette store’s elaborate accessories area For Moore and Black, laying off Ghuksvin. But there was one caveat: and the simplicity of quality.” will likely be a draw as well. 450 people from your company and “Some have had a big hand in how The two-level unit exudes a The French flagship is ex- shuttering two magazines probably things are created and others have New York-loft feeling, with ul- pected to generate some 3.36 doesn’t qualify as “good” either. had the photographers who do their trathin oak-wood paneled fl oors, million euros, or $4.3 million, in That said, not all media execs ad campaigns make the fi lms. The leather bookshelf-like display sales in the fi rst year. fell in rank. Anne Sweeney, president, designers want to know, ‘How is it units, soaring tin-plated ceilings Arts said a flagship is set Disney-ABC Television Group, rose being made? How much control can we and a winding brushed-steel and to open its doors on London’s to 13 from 16, while Amy Pascal, The cover of the upcoming “Fly.” have?’” — Rosemary Feitelberg slate staircase, which descends Regent Street before the end of to the women’s department. the year.

the next four years, with a goal of more than 1,200 stores by 2010. Kohl’s Outlines Plan to Triple Sales by 2010 Kohl’s reported on Tuesday that September same- store sales increased 16.3 percent, and raised guid- By Jeanine Poggi Kohl’s outlined its long-term growth plan during ance for the third quarter by 3 cents, from 56 cents to a presentation to analysts in Tampa, Fla. Though the 59 cents per share. ohl’s expects to reach $24 billion in sales and a net numbers seem staggering, analysts believe they are Besides store expansion, the fi ve-year plan includes Kincome of about $1.9 billion by 2010, nearly tripling achievable. broader marketing and merchandising initiatives, such its current sales volume. “I see the company’s projected growth as entirely as collaboration with designers to offer exclusive in- The company will open 65 stores on Thursday for possible. They have developed a nice growth engine store items. the largest one-day expansion in the department there in recent years, and to get to that path, while it “They have been able to maintain a nice record store’s history. Kohl’s will open another three stores might be a little stretch, is not impossible,” said Craig of sales productivity and are trying to differentiate next month. Johnson, president of Consumer Growth Partners. themselves by providing a superior customer experi- Shares for the retailer rallied on the news, closing Johnson said there was strong potential for geographi- ence, both in the stores and in terms of accessibility,” Wednesday at $69.14, up 2.38 percent from Tuesday’s cal expansion, especially in the Southwest and Northwest Johnson said. “With these initiatives and a solid man- close. As of Sept. 30, the department store had rung up As part of its fi ve-year strategic growth plan, Kohl’s agement team, I have good confi dence they will reach sales of $8.87 billion this year. plans to open about 415 stores across the county over what some people may call far-fetched growth.” WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 15 WWD.COM David Yurman CEO Takes Leap Forward Continued from page one in the Far East, said Blum. A rendering of David Yurman’s Beverly Hills boutique. Terms of the fragrance deal, which was signed Tuesday, were not dis- closed. Ancillary products are also part of the Clarins contract. “For the best product extensions, it’s important to have two things,” said Blum. “It needs to be an understandable evolution of the brand, which the consumer has an emotional relationship with, and there has to be a close relationship to the brand.” David and Sybil Yurman, the husband-and-wife founders of the fi rm who in January appointed Blum as the company’s fi rst ceo, will work closely with Clarins on designing the bottle and the fragrance. David is designer and chairman of the fi rm, while Sybil is president and chief mar- keting offi cer. “The real big news is the fragrance,” said Jonathan Zrihen, group presi- dent and ceo of Groupe Clarins USA, of his fi rst big project since taking his post in September, noting the companies had been in talks for over four months. “Clarins has always given a lot of attention to the personality, the values and the creativity of the brands we’ve been signing licenses with. We are more interested in the people behind the brand, and what we really liked in the David Yurman brand is the personality of the creators.” Zrihen said it was too early to project sales, although the fragrance for the fi rst 12 months will only be sold through Yurman’s existing distribution channels. That amounts to only hundreds of doors, and industry sources estimated that as a result sales of the fragrance in the fi rst year would be about $2 million to $3 Paul Blum million at retail. A $1.3 billion company, Clarins also produces Thierry Mugler Parfums and Azzaro fragrances. Though a launch date has not been set and the fragrance has CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY more accessible than European luxury. It’s a high- yet to be created, Blum plans quality product that has a classicism and strong to advertise the scent using icons, and I see that translating internationally.” Yurman’s current campaign con- The firm sees watches and men’s jewelry, trived by ad guru David Lipman, launched in 1994, as budding opportunities. with black-and-white shots of Yurman has its own watch factory in Jura, Kate Moss photographed by Peter Switzerland, that produces popular watches Lindbergh. like the Cable and Madison styles, which take Blum also plans to increase infl uence from the jewelry collections of the the jewelry company’s focus on same name and limited-edition watches like watches and men’s jewelry, fairly the High Jeweled Pavé Diamond watch from the recent additions to its product Thoroughbred Watch Collection, retailing for array, but said Yurman won’t li- $35,000 and in high demand by retailers this holiday cense out many categories, un- season due to its limited run of 10 pieces. Yurman’s like the strategy he employed in watch business was up 10 percent in 2006, and the his 15-year stint as president of company plans to grow it by another 15 percent in 2007, Kenneth Cole. with a watch ad campaign featuring still-life images of On par with Blum’s growth the watches and an increased focus on limited-edition plan, in late December Yurman styles. will open a 1,000-square-foot fl ag- This week, the company sent out its fi rst all-men’s cata- ship on Rodeo Drive in Beverly logue featuring styles like dog-tag pendants done in silver Hills, which Blum dubbed the and pavé diamonds and chunky rings set with gray and company’s fi rst international store Belmont GMT Watch with red dinosaur bones. Sales in the men’s jewelry sector by virtue of the scores of shoppers bronze guilloche dial accent. are ahead 25 percent this year, and the company plans from Asia and elsewhere. to grow it by another 30 percent next year. “Learning about this business Emanuel Weintraub, president and ceo of Emanuel Weintraub and the jewelry business has Associates, said the brand can grow from $50 million to $60 million a been an incredible experience,” said Blum. “This is our strategic year with these strategies in place, but with an expansion of this plan for where David Yurman is going in the future. It’s been fun, breadth comes some risk. and things are starting to coalesce.” “They have a very good reputation, and their product is The Beverly Hills store is expected to bring in $4 million in widely accepted — that’s not an issue,” said Weintraub. sales in 2007 and is being designed by Yabu Pushelberg, who is “The risk is, is the organization properly positioned to also designing Tiffany & Co.’s new store in New York’s Financial deal with the geometric complexities of multiple busi- District. The space’s open-air layout with glass and wood jewel- nesses? If their reach is greater than their grasp, it ry cases is more inviting than typical jewelry stores, according could be fatal.” to Blum. A light installation by artist Catherine Hibbits inhab- On the brighter side, Weintraub noted that Asian its the rear of the space. and European consumers continue to be taken by the Yurman’s 10 U.S. stores will be updated to coincide with the concept of American style and that there is booming de- look of the Pushelberg-designed emporium, while specialty stores mand for luxury goods like fi ne jewelry and watches. that carry the brand are in the process of refreshing their Yurman “Yurman will not sweep Europe or Asia,” he said. selling spaces to meet the new aesthetic. “But there will be enough people in these teeming mar- Yurman has stores in locations such as Bal Harbour, Fla., Houston, kets to support the brand.” Atlanta and at 729 Madison Avenue in Manhattan. In March, the com- According to LGI Network, a Randolph, N.J.-based in- pany will open a store in Austin, Tex., while Blum is seeking another dependent audit fi rm that measures the sales performance retail location in New York and others in major U.S. cities. The com- of watch and jewelry brands at retail, the market for women’s pany has yet to tap key retail havens like Boston, San Francisco and Above: Cable watches in the $1,500 to $5,000 price range amounted to $450 Washington, D.C. and Tapestry million in sales for the 12 months ended in July 2006, a 7 per- In 2007, Yurman will open its fi rst international stores in Macao, Hong collection silver cent growth. Kong and Tokyo, which also will be designed by Pushelberg. The stores and diamond Candy Udell, president of London jewelers, which has fi ve will range from 1,000 to 2,000 square feet. The fi rm is contemplating cuff bracelet. stores on Long Island in New York, believes that Yurman’s opening additional units in Bangkok, Taiwan and Seoul. Yurman is also Left: Men’s watch business has tremendous promise. setting up an offi ce in the region. rings inset with “[Yurman] is our top brand in jewelry for sure,” said Udell. Each of the new Yurman boutiques will feature installations by a dif- dinosaur bones. “There’s so much potential for the brand to grow with the ferent artist, referencing David and Sybil Yurman’s own artistic back- watches and men’s jewelry. Their brand name is so strong that grounds. David started as a sculptor in the Seventies, and Sybil was a pot- they can go into many different categories and continue to be successful.” ter and printmaker. Each store will also have exclusives from the fi rm’s The brand’s stepped-up expansion program not only will grow the com- Couture collection, a pet project of David’s in which he experiments with pany’s sales but allow David and Sybil Yurman to increase funding of their higher-priced stones and more elaborate pieces charity, the David and Sybil Yurman Humanitarian and Arts Foundation. The “We have a big international clientele in American stores,” said Blum, privately owned company is funneling an additional $1.5 million into the foun- adding that the fi rm advertises a bit in Europe and Asia. dation, which contributes to the Creative Artists Agency’s art auction to benefi t The company has had some international wholesale distribution in Project Angel Food, Los Angeles Museum of Art, P.S. Arts and others. Canada, the Caribbean and Mexico, which it plans to grow, although the And as for those within the industry who doubted whether the always-in- vast majority of Yurman’s sales continue to come in the U.S. In the next control Yurmans would be able to cede day-to-day decision-making to a ceo few years, Blum envisions opening stores in select European cities. from the outside, Sybil dismissed such concerns. “We’re really on target with “It’s not about being big, it’s about being beautiful,” he said of the Paul,” she said. “He’s very smart. He moves in a more studied, thoughtful way growth. “The David Yurman brand is really about American luxury. It’s then we do.” 16 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 WWD.COM On the Road in Istanbul With Posen By Suna Erdem Posen described how he adapted his collection for Vakko: “The color stories are unique, some of the tex- ISTANBUL — Zac Posen and luxury goods house Vakko tiles — the silks and the jacquard — are had Istanbul in a whirl with the launch of an exclusive unique to this collection. The develop- collection by the New York designer. ment of prints into solids…that was During a series of parties and events in the last something we did.” weekend of September, the 28-piece Zac Posen at Vakko He said after just two visits to the collection bowed to enthusiastic Turkish customers. city, he has been won over by the pre- Six $2,000 bags were sold during the fi rst weekend and vailing aesthetic, which balances the Turkish fi lm star Hande Ataizi snapped up two dresses geometry of Islamic work mixed with — one day, one evening, with a skirt made of 18 feet of fi gurative design, such as the tulip. silk — before any of her rivals could get a look. “The geometry fi ts with my collec- The limited-edition line was created by injecting a tion — the sculpture of it,” he added. new color palate and adding fabrics and looks to items Posen — who occasionally broke from Posen’s cruise 2006 and spring 2006 collections. off to ask his mother, Susan, his com- Dominated by camel, pale blue, chocolate and a rich clar- pany’s chief executive offi cer, about et color, as well as black and white, the collection’s sculp- strategic details — emphasized that a Dita Von tured day dresses, including the “cascade” dress with its large percentage of his business is outside Teese pleated neckline; “umbrella” blouse, with its voluminous the United States as part of his overall aim performing folding sleeves, and high-waisted trousers proved popular of developing a global brand. He said he had at the Zac at Vakko’s new fl agship at the Kanyon shopping mall, one been inspired by Vakko, a fully vertically in- Posen and of just two of the brand’s stores to carry the Posen line. tegrated lifestyle company, because it is the Vakko The designer also created a dress, modeled at the type of fi rm he wants to build for himself. dinner. launch party by fashion consultant and former Tuleh As to why he collaborated with a Turkish creative director Amanda Brooks, which had a caftan- partner, Posen pointed to the country’s increasing con- like, fl owing silhouette with a blue and maroon print. sumer activity. “Turkey is a huge growing market. It is at Sitting in his suite at the new Les Ottomans Hotel, the crossroads of Eastern and Western culture, there is a huge history of commerce,” he said. “There are more and more international customers coming here as well as the established Turkish customers.” The location of Vakko’s store in Kanyon illustrates the point. Soon, the brand will be joined there by Harvey Nichols in its fi rst foray into Turkey. The mall, which was designed to resemble a canyon and includes stores for Max Mara and Swarovski, has been buzzing with shoppers since it opened during the summer. Many other interna- tional names are opening elsewhere in the city; for exam- ple, Burberry opened its fi rst store in Istanbul last year. Vakko hosted 150 international guests for the Zac Amanda Brooks and Zac Posen Posen launch weekend, including the singer Bryan FARRELL/PMC BILLY PHOTOS BY Ferry, Padma Lakshmi, Bridget Hall and a large contin- Ottomans, Vakko ceo Cem Hakko treated the guests to gent of American Posen-ites only too happy to take ad- some of the best venues of the city. vantage of an all-expenses-paid trip to Istanbul. But the The prestige of having Posen design for Vakko is un- introduction also was a chance to show how European deniable. With turnover expected to hit $120 million and modern Turkey, or at least Istanbul, really can be this year and $150 million in 2007, the mood is good. — a cause dear to the hearts of many leading Turkish The plan is to develop the brand, starting with its locally fi gures frustrated by what they see as an Orientalist famous scarves, ties and shirts. Vakko plans to roll out view of their country by the West. stores and corners in other European cities, and a high- Organizing a welcome dinner at the Ulus 29 club, tak- profi le collaboration with someone of Posen’s caliber ing in a brunch trip along the Bosphorus on the yacht was the perfect symbol of its ambitions, Hakko said. Savarona — which once belonged to Turkey’s revered “We want to raise our international profi le,” said Hakko, Two looks from the new Zac Posen at Vakko collection. founder, Ataturk — and the fi nal launch party at Les whose father, Vitali, founded the company in 1934. Bloomingdale’s Takes a Bow in S.F. SAN FRANCISCO — Bloomingdale’s swept into this city last week, generating average sales of about $1 million daily for the first five days, doubling projections, market sources said. Business was paced by accessories, cosmetics, contem- porary sportswear, men’s wear and shoes. The store opened for preferred customers on Sept. 27 in the Westfi eld San Francisco Centre on Market and Fifth Streets, and on Sept. 28 to the general public. Michael Gould, Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief executive offi cer, would not confi rm any numbers, but said, “The response has been overwhelming.” On the fi rst two days, lines snaked around the store, creat- ing a wait of as much as one-and-a-half hours to get in. Almost The spacious Bloomingdale’s interior.

all the brands sold in the new Bloomingdale’s also can be pur- ALAIN MCLAUGHLIN PHOTOS BY chased elsewhere, but that’s not an issue for Gould. “The true Ground-fl oor shops for Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo and Michael Gould (center), Bob Mettler, Macy’s West value of our store is that we have all of these things under one Christian Dior establish a tony ambience and were created ceo, and Michael Steinberg, former Macy’s West ceo. roof,” he said. “It feels quintessentially Bloomingdale’s.” to exude distinct brand images. Other designer and bridge There was an opening party, too, of course. The retail- shops are integrated into the Bloomingdale’s store design. er invited 1,100 guests to the store on Sept. 26 for a gala The wide porcelain tiling, ceiling spotlights and natural that benefi ted the University of California San Francisco lighting that pours in through the windows forming the Children’s Hospital’s cancer program. Mission Street facade brighten the experience. One of the guests, Anthony DiMasso, chief operat- A few key labels, including Vince and Juicy Couture, ing offi cer of Jimmy Choo, said, “We’ve been talking to Bloomingdale’s biggest apparel line, are identifi ed by signs Bloomingdale’s for some time about a potential rollout in suspended from the ceiling. However, there’s limited brand the right stores. I think this store will let us know.” signage, enabling Bloomingdale’s to project its personality. Peter Harris, former FAO Schwarz ceo who now runs “In the past, every fi xture would have a sign,” repeated- the Westmarine chain, said, “There’s an edginess to the ly identifying the brand, Gould said. “Now we say you can store without it being unreachable.” have one sign in the department. We think the customer The unit has black trim framing designer shops, a crisp can fi gure it out from there. One of the greatest advantag- contemporary tone and upscale merchandise, yet the San es of Bloomingdale’s is that we can marry our DNA — not Francisco store is atypical. At 330,000 square feet, it’s the match it — with the DNA of resources.” largest and most upscale in the chain — excluding the New San Francisco has intense competition, with top Neiman Yo r k fl agship — and is distinguished by 32-foot-wide land- Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Macy’s West units, so ings off mall entrances, seating areas by lounges and fi tting Bloomingdale’s didn’t pull any punches. Among the other features: rooms and shallow, 6- to 14-foot-deep departments com- The Quotation shop, housing contemporary brands such as Biya pared with 22 to 27 feet at older stores. and Stacia, with more of a misses’ fi t; dominant classifi cation pre- Merchandise is easy to reach and the store features servic- sentations in cashmere, dresses, decorative home, men’s shirts and Josy Pintrand and Anthony DiMasso of Jimmy Choo in es from personal shopping to a visitor center. There are also contemporary denim and a 70-foot run of fashion sunglasses. the brand’s shop at Bloomingdale’s. 750 pieces by local artists sprinkled throughout the space. — David Moin WWD group publisher, at212-630-4589,oryourWWDsalesrepresentative. contactRalphFor Erardy, moreinformationonadvertising, seniorvicepresident, Section II: this valuable retail mix attracting the of demographic. make to your part brand Advertise shopping habits and spending power. Generation In Depth will provide critical analysis of this demographic, from top brands andmarket, trends to proving these fashion-savvy women know their way around their favorite stores. multibillion-dollar 13 a is 20 ages to WWD’s consumers of Next generation wearing? next they The are What November 9 9 November Next GenerationInDepth Close: WWD October 24 MediaWorldwide youth movement youth ® WWD WWD Style StartsHere SPECIAL ISSUE SPECIAL ™

PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN 18 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

CAD Designer/Coordinator

Search For Space In Garment Center BRIGGS NEW YORK Well est’d Better Women’s Import Manufacturer Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee A Major Women’s public Sportswear Company is looking of Woven Shirts & Sportswear www.midcomre.com Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 for experienced & energetic professionals to fill the following • Organized & able to work w/a diverse customer base. Showrooms & Lofts new positions: • Photoshop & Illustrator a must • Strong color sense BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS • Color Matters 32 a + • Create presentations DESIGNERS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Design Manager/Design Director • Primavision softwear available • Fabric development ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 • Understand retail business • Woven exp. a must JUNIORS Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th Your primary role is to direct a large design • Sketch bodies & line plans 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built team to execute the planning of updated • Cad Woven Yarn Dyes & Prints Fast growing junior denim Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 and sportswear brand Search- www.manhattanoffices.com lines and develop private label collections. We offer a great work enviornment w/oppty’s for growth seeking SENIOR LEVEL Candidate must have 7-10 years management experience in Please email or fax resume w/salary req’s: DESIGNERS. Qualified apparel and private label design. Proven ability to build and E: [email protected] F: 212-328-1230 candidates should have a motivate an enthusiastic knits and wovens design team to meet minimum of 5 years expe- deadlines. This exciting position will offer the right candidate rience and be familiar Broadway Garment Center Men’s Tech Designer Senior Tech/ with all phases of line the opportunity to work in a dynamic & fast paced environment. Large apparel co. seeks designer w/ 4 development. OFFICE PLUS SHOWROOM yrs exp. in knit/ woven/ denim apparel. Production Coordinator AVAILABLE TO SHARE Must create specs & know construction For all technical specifications of fast Girls 4-6x & 7-16 Please Call Anna @ 917-907-1667 Technical Manager details. Team player w/ strong commu- moving Bridge line. Domestic and nication skills to work w/ overseas offices. Import, better & bridge experience Seeking SENIOR LEVEL This position will lead a team of technical designers and Proficiency in Illustrator and Photoshop necessary. Excellent communication & req’d. Competitive salary & full benefits. strong computer skills must. DESIGNERS. Prior denim patternmakers to meet deadlines. Must have patternmaker Fax resumes to : HR Assoc. 212-556-5462 E-mail resume and salary experience a must. background with a minimum of 7-10 years experience. Back- requirements in confidence to Excellent salary, benefits ground in updated and private label women’s sportswear MERCHANDISER [email protected] or NC based vertical t-shirt private label fax 212-575-0181. and a great working required. Extensive knowledge to develop product specs, model manufacturer has an opportunity environment. fittings, and construction. Must be able to manage a high for an experienced embellished t-shirt TAILOR/FITTER merchandiser. Experience required Need a professional, F/T, immediate. Please e-mail resume to: volume and fast paced team. Must be proficient in Web PDM. in screen print inks and application To measure clients at their locations, [email protected] or processes, embroidery & other t-shirt transportation to sites provided along CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING embellishment techniques. Also, new with company’s fit line. Occasional fax to: (212) 354 - 4418. U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Positions based in Boston w/travel to New York. product sourcing and development, travel required, fluent in English, com- www.sanodesignworks.com merchandising and sales presentation. puter literate. Excellent package. We offer a great work environment, Some travel required. Mail resumes to Fax resume 516-483-9434 Fun-Tees, Inc. PO Box 187, Concord, PATTERN/SAMPLES excellent salaries and benefit packages. NC 28026, Attn: Bob Zevon. Pls. e-mail Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast resumes to: [email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Please E-mail resume: [email protected] or Fax: (617) 783-4395 MERCHANDISING PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Technical Designer Jrs & Tween knitwear licensee seeks a PRODUCTIONS Tech Designer w/ a min. of 5 yrs exp. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Accounting and DATA ENTRY Candidate must have working knowl- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Import Manager Well est’d Fashion Co. seeks person for edge of standard measurements in LIC plant location. Must be detail ori- One of the world’s finest museums, Jrs/girls, and be able to prepare flat PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Expanding and very profitable New ented, min 5-6 yrs of fashion or related sketches with constructions. Great work York based apparel co. seeks a skilled offers exciting new opportunities in ind. exp. Resp. include: Data entry, merchandising division including: environment with growth potential. PRODUCTIONS individual who can oversee & manage processing/revising EDI orders on a Please forward resume to: Full service shop to the trade. our general accounting functions and daily basis. Must speak, read and write [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. manage all aspects of our import process. in English. Jewelry Reproductions: You shall be responsible for our general Pls email resume to: [email protected] Associate Manager ledger, financial reporting, and you will Production Manager Women’s Designer PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD 5 yrs exp. req’d for a junior collection High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- manage our relationships with our factor, Product Associate bank, and outside auditors. In addition, label. Illustrator and Photoshop profi- sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Data/Order Entry ciency req’d. knowl. of yarndye, fabrics, you will be responsible for imports in- For leading home furnishing company. Textile Reproductions: cluding setting up LC’s and working with Senior Production Associate colors, and prints a must. Excellent Must have experience in purchase or communication and organizational skills ROCK STAR our freight forwarders to track all in- sales order entry and style master set Production Associate Denim/Leather - Celebrity Level Couture bound containers. The ideal candidate req’d w/ overseas office. Be part of a up. Blue Cherry experience a plus. dynamic design team in fast paced Design Wash Construct Beading will have 5 to 7 years of experience in Reply to: [email protected] Children’s Products: All work on premises individual or lines. the apparel industry only. Please email Assistant Buyer environment. Travel req’d. Competitive Call Michael at: (212) 719-0800 resume and salary requirements to: salary and full benefits. Fax resumes to [email protected] Design Asst/Receptionist Wholesale Sales: HR Associates 212-556-5369/5431 Looking for creative, motivated person Associate Manager for to join our team. Photoshop/Illustrator International Stores Administrative Asst. exp a must! Indiv capable of multi- Brooklyn-based ladies sportswear co. tasking. Entry Level. Please fax resume Inventory Control: seeks motivated, aggressive adminis- Attn. Design Dept: 212-391-7199 Associate Inventory Specialist trative assistant / data entry person. ONCE IN A LIFETIME Knowledge of MBI a plus. Salary If you have experience and enthusi- OPPORTUNITY commensurate with experience. Designer Asst to $30K. Entry level pos. asm for this special area of merchan- in the HAMPTONS...! Please fax resume to: (718) 963-2855 However,must be proficient on MAC dising, please send cover letter, re- Retiring; 30+ years; Huge retail success sketching apparel. Bilingual Korean/ sume, and salary history to: in one of the Hamptons finest tourist Admin Since 1967 English req’d. Call 973-564-9236. AGCY [email protected] locations. Unique atmosphere; hi-profit; as a Word attachment with the area 6 month season selling upscale apparel W-I-N-S-T-O-N DESIGNERS-GRAPHIC, CAD, of interest in the subject line. & accessories. Call: 631-668-3290 PATTERNMAKER The Metropolitan Museum of Art APPAREL STAFFING PROD.-BRIDGE, SALES, VP-MEN’S DESIGN * SALES * MERCH 1000 Fifth Avenue [email protected] New York, NY 10028-0198 ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION FASHION ASSURANCE - 201.845.6050 (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 Equal Opportunity Employer Assistant/Associate FABRIC MANAGER PATTERNMAKER Designer - Swimwear for GARMENT MANUFACTURER Designer Sportswear Co. has F/T position Must be computer literate and experi- available for a motivated, detail oriented, Large private label co seeks 2 yrs exp. enced in the maintenance of fabric Must be a smart, quick learner able to organized team player w/3+ years experi- inventory and cutting records from the ence. Responsibilities include draping & work at fast pace. Illustrator & receiving of fabric through the shipping Photoshop skills req’d. Must be highly 1st pattern through prod’n. Must be able of cutwork. Must be able to maintain to make patterns from looking at sketches/ organized & an effective communicator. an accurate and detailed up-to-date Must have a great eye for color & pictures. Salary based on exp. Fax/E-mail: inventory of surplus piece goods. 212-343-1227 / [email protected] trends & be part of a growing team. Position will also oversee the fabric Competitive salary and full benefits. quality control department. Competitive PLANNER...... 60-80K Fax resumes to : HR Assoc. 212-556-5462 salary and benefits offered. Qualified Excel, Access, & Sales Presentations candidates should forward a resume w/ Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 salary requirements to 212-947-7218. [email protected] Assistant Designer/ www.srisearch.com Production Coordinator Large private label co seeks 2-3 yrs Graphic/Print Artist Production Assistant exp. in knits & wovens. Must have Major importer seeks a detail-oriented, excellent eye for color and ability to in- Swimwear computer literate person w/ follow-up terface between design & production Create original graphics & prints in re- skills, able to coordinate with overseas teams. Team player with excellent peat and multiple colorations. Florals, mills and garment factories. Company organizational skills. Will monitor Scenics, Tie-dyes, etc. Size range is paid benefits. Fax resume: 212-293-2906 deadlines, traffic, approvals, & commu- girls & jrs. Artist must be proficient in nicate w/ overseas offices. Competitive computer work, extremely organized salary and full benefits. and able to communicate w/ overseas Production Pattern Maker Fax resumes to: HR Assoc. print mills. NJ location. Email resume Exciting new Evening Division for Kay 212-556-5369/5431 w/ salary req: [email protected] Unger New York has an opening for a candidate w/minimum 10 years exp. in evening gowns and corseted dresses. Assistant Designer Must have the ability to work with all Well-established importer seeking Men’s Designer fabrications, be computer literate, and highly motivated, experienced profes- Large apparel co seeks designer w/ 5 possess a young attitude. Please E-mail sional with great style sense.. Must be yrs exp. in knits/ wovens/ denim. Eye your resume to: [email protected] proficient in Photoshop, Illustrator for trends, fabric & color. Must be and Freehand and be able to proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. Knowl. of specs/ fit & construction SALES ASSISTANT communicate with overseas factories. Excellent opportunity to work in fast Email your resume and salary req’d. Strong communication & organ- izational skills a must. paced junior showroom. Must be or- requirements to: [email protected] ganized and computer literate. Knowl- Men’s Asst.Designer edge of Photoshop a plus. Fax resume Asst Designer Childrenswear 1-2 yrs exp. in knits & wovens. Must to (212) 730-4289 attn: Florence. Must have strong computer skills on a know fabric construction/ yarndyes. Mac using Illustrator and Photoshop. Knowl. of Illustrator & Photoshop Sales/Production Fax resume to: 212-868-9279 Attn: EFK req’d. Strong hand illustration, communication, & organizational skills Coordinator BOOKKEEPER F/C a must. Be part of growing team with For fast paced private label knit TEXTILES focus on trend and quality manufacturer. Five years experience, MUST BE EXP’D. COMPUTER LITERATE. Competitive salary and full benefits. computer literate. Salary and benefits. Factoring exp. Fax resume to: (212) 921-0261 Fax resumes to: HR Assoc 212-556-5462 Fax resume to 212-947-7218. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2006 19 WWD.COM The Skinny on Madrid’s Fashion Shows signer sells through her Madrid boo weave or low-shine metallic By Barbara Barker Amaya Agatha Ruiz store, called Egotherapy. threads. The color story ranged Agatha Ruiz Arzuaga de la Prada MADRID — The spotlight that ● Agatha Ruiz de la Prada’s from creamy neutrals and quieter de la Prada shone on Spanish fashion as girlish cotton knits, separates shades to combinations of black a result of the ban on too-thin and dresses with loads of stripes and white and red or splashes of models on the runway didn’t au- and signature multicolor mixes, orange and purple. tomatically translate into new a nod to iconic painter Niki de Evangelos Stamou, chief ex- business for designers and man- Saint Phalle, according to pro- ecutive offi cer of Imex Trading ufacturers, which remain under gram notes, and big-bowed espa- Inc., a New Jersey-based import- pressure because of economic drilles. The best of her swimwear er and distributor with a Seventh uncertainty and Asian imports. featured an electric orange tank Avenue showroom, cited “good Fashion week’s Pasarela with a cutout heart. lines and prices and there is a lot Cibeles catwalk shows, which ran ● Ailanto’s slim Fifties-style of product variety; you can really Sept. 18-22 in Retiro Park, fea- dresses with fl oral prints and choose what you want. The fair is tured 31 designers and a batch knee-hovering hemlines in- very useful for getting an idea of of local models who didn’t look spired by Agatha Christie novels. what is out there.” much chubbier than previous Local retailers snapped them Stamou said he was shopping seasons. It was generally agreed up. “I bought a lot of the prints, for special items like “very mod- Madrid’s regional government did mainly dresses, and about the ern, feminine” dresses. “Unless not do the industry here a favor same quantities as last fall. The I see something unique, I don’t by banning superthin models. [Barcelona-based] label is one of go after it.” The European “We’re the laughing stock of my bestsellers,” said Sonia Ruiz, market’s biggest negative is the the international fashion world,” owner of The Deli Room, a hip strength of the euro, he added, said Carlos García-Calvo, fashion Madrid boutique. “but that will shake out.” editor of El Mundo newspaper Meanwhile, at the SIMM ap- A newcomer to the show, Torill and society author. He called parel show, vendor participa- Saeve, owner of Chili Boutique this season’s hastily improvised tion dropped 13 percent to 877 on Spain’s southeastern coast, selection “bargain-basement compared with last September’s said she was placing orders for ECHEVERRIA JUAN PHOTOS BY models from the B-list.” show. Director Pola Iglesias at- complete lines rather than items. cent linen separates in solid tailers here no longer buy at the The only international face on tributed the slide to “the crisis Saeve focused on plus-size gar- colors, said he opened 15-20 show. [Trade events] have become the Madrid runway was Bimba that clings to Europe because of ments in natural fabrics, including new accounts during the show’s more a point of reference.” Bosé. “By definition, models the Asian threat and coinciding lightweight linen knits, in white, three-day run. The Madrid-based label’s should be a certain height and dates with major French trade soft green and brown, and trench- “The fair is pretty good and bestsellers were unstructured weight; that does not mean we’re apparel shows [Premiere Classe, coats for her mainly Scandinavian it keeps getting better,” he said. separates in cotton and polyester undernourished,” she huffed. Prêt á Porter Paris], including clientele, ages 30 to 60. “Dresses are defi nitely back and laced with a new low-gloss metal- Cibeles’ highlights included: Lyon Mode City.” “I’m probably not the best skirts are still hot, but they’re lic thread. “It’s a quieter, more ● Amaya Arzuaga’s evenin- In addition, some regular retail barometer because my selling less than last season.” casual fashion season with natu- gwear, which featured wrapped exhibitors have switched loyal- store is small and very special; The Munich, Germany-based ral fabrics and softer shades of and twisted volume plays based ties to the Barcelona edition of I buy what I like,” said Bakartxo label also featured jackets, tops, blue, khaki and lilac, and unique on vintage corsetry, flounced Bread & Butter, she said. Oyana, owner of Sagardía, a one- pants and shorts with whole- items are selling better than ba- bubble skirts and very brief According to offi cial fi gures, unit location in Pamplona. She sale prices of 25 to 50 euros sics,” Sobrino explained. shorts; a chaos of organza and the fair drew 19,382 visitors, up 13 was scouting in between dress- ($32 to $63 at current exchange), He said the company is “on tulle, pieced overlays and asym- percent over last fall. Foreign at- up casual and special occasion has roughly 120 sales points in track” in China, where a fran- metrics in an understated color tendance jumped to 20 percent of items, “a category I’m not sure Spain, including three company- chised retail strategy includes palette of black, white and navy. the total, Iglesias said. She point- exists.” Her buying budget is owned stores in the Barcelona the opening next year of two free- After the show, Arzuaga said, ed out “considerable increases” about the same as last season area, he said. standing stores in Beijing. Other the lack of supermodels was in buyers from Germany, Ireland, and even though the Madrid fair On the other hand, Alberto potential markets are Russia, “Cibeles’ loss and it’s a shame.” Greece and Eastern Europe. is “ordinary with inconvenient Sobrino, export manager of Fuente- India and the Middle East. ● Carmen March’s ladylike Exhibitors said they did well dates, I’m pretty well set for next capala, an upscale manufacturer “We are doing well in the U.S. series of skinny knits and mini- with superfeminine dresses and spring,” she added. of traditional women’s and men’s with multilabel shops — about dresses in soft neutrals and easy pattern mixes, graphic prints, Vendors generally were satis- apparel, said the Madrid fair 40 doors including Saks-Jandel tops with midthigh swing skirts. A fl orals and nautical motifs, tunic- fi ed with sales. Oliver Wiesent, was “quite weak and orders are and Neiman Marcus — but we relative newcomer to the Spanish style shirts, crinkle cotton and managing director of Natural decreasing each year. There is a are not yet into the franchised fashion scene, the 32-year-old de- such innovative fabrics as a bam- Wave, a popular line of 100 per- general trend indicating that re- concept there,” he added.

SALES PROFESSIONAL Leading multi-category legwear co. seeks NY SALES REP Children’s Wear exp’d, energetic sales pro to build European High End Children’s Wear SALES MANAGER accounts & relationships w/ key retailers. New Upscale Ladies Swimwear Bridge to Design company, specialized Exp. & motivation are key. Qualified Company is looking for : in shearling, leather and suede pro- collection showing now for duction with an array of products and entrepreneur considered. Email resume & salary req. to : [email protected] Spring 2007. Company seek s Sales Executives brands moving from fur to outerwear, qualified Sales Reps who Candidates mustbeenthusiastic, sportswear and contemporary niches. SHOWROOM SALES Seeking a highly motivated sales man- NY Junior Bottoms manufacture seeks a have multiple lines & would energetic & love to sell. Computer ager, able to convey the potential of salesperson for departments & specialty work only on Commission. the products to top department stores stores to bring in new business. Email Must have contact with literate a must. Great benefits pkg. in the U.S. The person should have a [email protected] or Fax 212-921-7817 E-mail resume to: proven track record with contacts and Specialty stores & Buyers. business development with the signifi- [email protected] cant players in the market, and all Please contact Diane around vision of the business. Coming E: [email protected] from a top-brand is a plus. SALES Please e-mail resumes to: LA based contemporary knit & woven [email protected] Mgmt & Sales Opportunities mfr. seeks in-house Salesperson for our NY showoom. Must have 5 yrs. in Luxury Boutique exp. & have an est’d relationships w/ dept stores & specialty store chains. STORE MANAGER Send resume & salary history to: Italian luxury boutique seeks dedicat- SALES MANAGER ed, professional, outgoing individual to Esthere @ Fax: (323) 846-0001 manage new store located in Short or E-mail: [email protected] Salt Jeans a premium denim company seeks a Sales Manager with min 5 Hills, New Jersey. Ability to sell high- years experience working with High end product and manage a sales staff. end dept stores and boutiques. Excel- At least 3 yrs retail mgmt experience lent Salary + compensation package. in designer market. Email résumés: [email protected] SALES ASSOCIATE(S) SALESPERSON Seeking a hardworking candidate who Chief Sourcing Agent SALES ASSOCIATE SALES EXECUTIVE can produce a high volume of sales, Young bridge designer sportswear WANTED provide superior customer service. 20+ yrs exp. in Fabric and Garments company looking for energetic sales Est’d & diverse better knit importer seek- Must demonstrate strong communica- •FABRIC: China; Korea; Taiwan; India Branded Bottoms Co. needs a min. 2 •GARMENTS : China; Cambodia; Dubai; person. Must travel extensively to ing creative, well-connected individual years experienced salesperson to handle tion and sales skills. Experience in regional markets. Excellent organization, luxury, designer sales a must. Vietnam; Jordan; India; Carib. Basin for dept. store & private label business. major accts jr/missy/large sizes. Seeking Full Time position presentation, and communication Email resumes: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Salary based on exp. Please forward skills a must. Email resume to: w/Major Retailer or Garment Mfr. Fax: (212) 736-5599 your resume and salary history to E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2005.