Most ExpensiveThe U.S. StreetsInside: Pg. 12 TINA JOHNSON JOINS NRDC/3 AZZARO SOLD/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 5, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Speak Softly PARIS — John Galliano has converted, at least for the spring season, to the real-clothes-for-real-women camp, showing lots of discreet suits at Christian Dior for day. Even his draped evening dresses detailed with crystals and beads, like this one, looked calm. For more on the collections, see pages 6 to 9. Yurman’s Bigger World: Jeweler in Beauty Deal, Plots Overseas Growth By Sophia Chabbott NEW YORK — Paul Blum, just seven months into the job as David Yurman’s chief executive officer, is already bringing a new whiff into the air. In an effort to propel the $500 million brand into the next stage of growth, the 26-year-old jewelry firm has inked a deal for its first fragrance with Groupe Clarins. But the beauty deal is only one leg of Blum’s strategy to grow the Yurman brand. The company also plans to aggressively expand internationally, including the opening of the first freestanding stores overseas, beginning See David, Page15 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ John Galliano’s Dior was smart and refi ned, Valentino provided grown- 6 up fl uff and Karl Lagerfeld went sharp and graphic as Paris rolled on. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Jeweler David Yurman has inked a deal for its fi rst fragrance with Groupe 1 Clarins as a key step in the $500 million fi rm’s international expansion. RESORT-FUL THINKING Christina Johnson, former Saks Fifth Avenue ceo, has joined NRDC Easy Care Fashions Make Smart Sense for Early Spring 3 Equity Partners as managing director of retail and consumer investments. EYE: The A-listers turned out in force at the Waldorf for the Elton John AIDS For a stylish woman, perhaps the only thing female respondents stated in the affirmative. Ditto 4 Foundation benefi t that has raised $100 million in the fi ght against AIDS. more exciting than the thought of a warm weather for wrinkle resistance (68%), stain resistance (55%), DISH: Swimwear designer Ashley Paige and jeans company Paige vacation during the cold winter months is the the ability to behave as shape wear (49%) and water Premium Denim are in a legal battle over rights to the Paige name. careful calculation of what she might pack for that repellency (46%). 10 ultimate getaway. Awareness of these treatments has piqued BEAT: Nupur Jordon, Princess of Jaislmer in Rajasthan, India, has There will certainly be many women’s interest. According to 11 launched her own contemporary sportswear line called Nupur Paris. classy considerations for the savvy the Monitor, 54% of female Nicolas Andreas Taralis, named artistic director of Cerruti in August, has traveler from the Resort 2007 consumers stated that they had 14 a few notions of how he wants to pilot the dusty Paris fashion house. collections; wardrobe options purchased something with wrinkle Tommy Hilfi ger raises his fl ag in the midst of Paris Fashion Week; his fi rst range from the expected nautical resistance, 35% with water 14 Paris fl agship opens today at 368 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. combinations to everyday basics repellency, and 33% with stain Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................18-19 to soft and voluminous pieces resistance. The majority of female To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. that define and flatter the consumers who said bought a feminine form. treated garment said they would [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- “We are definitely seeing two- do so again. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. While the easy care treatments VOLUME 192, NO. 71. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- tone garments, which are, of ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- course, nautically-inspired items for today’s clothing could be called ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers that lend themselves to layering, “brilliant,” the palette for Resort Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and like tees, woven tops, light sweaters 2007 will be toned down. “Think C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior and classically cut pants and of jewel tones, but taken down a Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance skirts,” offers Claire Dupuis, a few levels in intensity, and not Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. quite as bold. Colors are muted Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. Senior Product Trend Analyst at “Vacation clothes should make you 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Cotton Incorporated. “We are and reflect the environment with Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS happy, plain and simple. You want CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, also seeing plenty of garments with light palettes of sands, pinks, things that are easy to care for and ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR interesting textures and subtle corals and moss,” offers Dupuis, DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four wear well in the warmer weather so weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. contrasts, like breezy dresses with the trend analyst. “Colors will be Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other naturally, you will be packing a lot trim details and ruffle cuts.” much warmer; brighter shades U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. of garments made with natural First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, “Resort 2007 is also about will be sun bleached for an overall and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions volume and cut, as seen in A-line fibers, like cotton.” more subdued palette,” the Foster and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To — Rose Roberts, subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make skirts and bubble dresses,” adds Brothers share. our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Rose Roberts Travel Services interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Alle Fister, founder and owner of Owing to an ever-popular us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Bollare, a Los Angeles-based nautical theme, an apparent WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- lifestyle public relations firm. “Full cut, wide legged cornerstone of each year’s resort and spring ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, trousers and bubble jackets are some key volume collections, strong and contrasting colors will also OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED pieces that are really in. When wearing this trend have their place. “Color blocking, for both knits and make sure to pick one volume piece and let the rest wovens, is the most directional way to use color for of your ensemble be more subdued and form spring, whether in contrasting layers or bold graphic In Brief fitting.” combinations to add a sportswear element for “Fabrics will be sheer and flowing for an overall simple dress shapes,” offers Fecci from New York relaxed look. Chip and and Company. Adds Fister, ● TOD’S TAPS HAMADA: Tod’s SpA has promoted Stephanie Pepper’s spring line the fashion expert, “For Hamada to senior vice president of communications and VIP features cotton tunics and Are You Aware of Cotton Clothing That… resort there are some bright relations. Hamada has been with the company for 11 years in ce- flowing tops with a hint of colors, especially reds and lebrity dressing for the brand. Hamada’s responsibilities cover tailoring that is sexy, yet Female Consumers greens, which are great. We the firm’s flagship brand, Tod’s, as well as its Hogan and Roger comfortable in its style,” Is easy care 77% are often seeing these colors Vivier labels.