PILOT LANDS AT POLO/2 AKRIS TAKES MADISON/11 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’WEDNESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 3, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 47 $2.00 Sportswear Flirty Pretty Thing LAS VEGAS — The fun was back at this year’s WWDMAGIC convention, where bright colors, prints and feminine looks were just a few of the elements that livened things up. Here, Hot Kiss’ cotton dress with a tulle underskirt, photographed poolside at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino. For more on Magic, see pages 6, 7, 14 and 15.

Counting Down to 2005: China’s Strong Currency Heightens Trade Debate By Scott Malone

DAY NE W YORK — As the end of quotas in 2005 looms closer, industry experts have two major questions on their mind regarding China, which has the potential to be the world’s dominant supplier of apparel. Looking toward Beijing, they wonder if the Chinese government will float its currency, which many economists contend is currently undervalued by about 40 percent, making Chinese exports even more competitive abroad than they would otherwise be. Looking at Washington, they wonder if the U.S. government will take advantage See China’s, Page12 PHOTO BY JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODEL: CHRISTINA MARIE/CHAMPAGNE TROTT; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY GERALDINE SHAKER-KEKATI; STYLED BY KIM FRI STYLED BY SHAKER-KEKATI; GERALDINE HAIR AND MAKEUP BY TROTT; JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODEL: CHRISTINA MARIE/CHAMPAGNE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 WWDWEDNESDAY Pilot Lands in Polo Retail Seat Sportswear GENERAL By Eric Wilson fessional with a strong back- within the domestic market over ground in merchandising, opera- the next five or six years. Polo Vibrant colors and playful prints, like Hawaiian, Pop Art, stripes and florals, NEW YORK — After a short flight tions and marketing,” Berman currently has some 35 domestic 6 reflected optimism at the WWDMAGIC and ISAM trade shows last week. at J. Crew, Ken Pilot has landed said in a statement. “As we contin- stores, more than 100 factory out- As the end of quotas nears, industry experts wonder if China will float its at Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. ue the expansion and growth of let stores and another 100 stores 1 currency, and if the U.S. will clamp down on Chinese imports. The retail veteran joined our worldwide retail business, licensed internationally. Polo on Monday as president of Ken’s expertise will add strategic Pilot, in his new position, is After a short flight at J. Crew, Ken Pilot has landed at Polo Ralph Lauren factory stores and retail concept strength to the Polo Ralph expected to look at Polo’s exist- 2 Corp. as president of factory stores and retail concept development. development, responsible for Lauren retail management team.” ing retail concepts on a global Kmart named former Gap veteran Lisa Schultz as chief creative officer, a the operations of its factory out- 2 new post reporting to ceo Julian Day, and tapped two others to top roles. let stores worldwide and the de- As we continue the expansion and velopment of new store con- The 4,000-square-foot Akris store opening today on Madison Avenue is an cepts — reflecting the compa- “growth of our worldwide retail 11 exercise in modernity. Here’s a look. ny’s overall ambitions to aug- MAINSTREAM: A deeper understanding of the math used by retailers helps ment its retail portfolio. business, Ken’s expertise will add develop the ability to independently analyze interactions with customers. Pilot reports to Bridget Ryan 10 Berman, group president of strategic strength to the Polo Ralph SUZY IS ON VACATION Polo Ralph Lauren Retail, and Classified Advertisements ...... 16-19 takes over some of the duties of Lauren retail management team. James Gundell, the former pres- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is ident of factory store concepts — Bridget Ryan Berman, Polo Ralph” Lauren [email protected], using the individual's name. who left the company. Pilot has SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. an extensive background with As reported, Polo has been in- basis and then consider what All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. specialty retail concepts, having creasingly focused on its own re- types of stores the company Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 held several merchandising tail growth. Last September, the might want to test. Polo has been Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. roles on a global basis in his 13 company named Wayne Meichner increasingly experimental in its WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and September and three in August, by Fairchild years with Gap Inc., including as as president of Polo Retail and own retail channels, having Publications Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. president of Gap International. Charles Fagan as executive vice signed a lease to open a small- WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. He had left in August 2002 to try president of global retail brand format store on Bleecker Street No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, to turn around J. Crew as chief development, with plans for in New York this month, opened including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 executive officer, but left after opening new store formats for ini- a Ralph Lauren Baby store in Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. five months when his former tiatives like Polo’s Blue Label April across from its Madison Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 boss, ex-Gap ceo Mickey Drex- bridge collection. Meichner also Avenue flagship and launched Printed in the U.S.A. ler, took his place. is projected to direct the opening exclusive products like cus- All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of “Ken is a seasoned retail pro- of between 50 and 60 new stores tomized Polo shirts on polo.com. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. Kmart Taps Trio of Top Execs In Brief ● SAKS’ LEGAL EAGLE: Saks Inc. has promoted Charles Hansen By Katherine Bowers of corporate development with Schultz, who starts next week, to executive vice president and general counsel. He succeeds Kellogg Co., starts today as chief was unavailable for comment. In Brian Martin, who will concentrate on real estate and interna- BOSTON — With its losses nar- administrative officer, focused on a statement, Day said her “vision tional development for the Birmingham, Ala.-based retailer’s rowed and $10 million worth of human resources and corporate and leadership” are “necessary Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises division. Hansen had been senior stock available to reward key ex- governance. for Kmart to move competitively vice president and deputy general counsel at Saks since 1998. ecutives, Kmart has begun cher- Tierney Remick, managing into the future.” Before that, he served in numerous legal capacities at Saks’ ry-picking talent to fill top roles. director of Korn/Ferry Inter- Industry analysts said having Carson Pirie Scott & Co. nameplate. Brian Martin is the brother The Troy, Mich.-based dis- national’s retail and consumer worked under Millard “Mickey” of R. Brad Martin, Saks Inc. chief executive. counter said Tuesday it has hired products practice, said Day — Drexler during Gap’s heyday, former Gap veteran Lisa Schultz whose forte is financial guid- Schultz brings strong product ● LEATHER BUY: Trussardi has acquired a Tuscan leather goods as chief creative officer, a new ance — is choosing talent “with development credentials. manufacturing company, Zetati Srl, for $2.7 million (converted position reporting to president different skills from his [that is] “Clearly, she came up in a from 2.5 million euros at current exchange). This acquisition is and chief executive Julian Day. not necessarily coming out of very product-centric environ- in line with Trussardi’s strategy to focus and strengthen its Schultz is expected to work the same environment.” ment,” observed Remick. “Kmart leather goods division. In a statement, Trussardi estimated sales closely with a chief merchant, a Kmart’s makeover is a “big is likely looking for a certain of $122.8 million this year, in line with 2002’s volume. position the discounter has task,” she continued. “There are taste level that it hopes she is been working for months to fill. plenty of people wondering going to provide.” ● ONGOING HOSTILITIES: In the latest act of a continuing hos- In a 14-year stint at Gap Inc., [that], if we have a Target and a The move to redraw chief tile takeover drama, Simon Property Group Inc. said approxi- Schultz became head of global Wal-Mart, [whether] we need a sourcing and product develop- mately 64 percent of Taubman Centers Inc.’s common shares product development and de- Kmart. This is his opportunity to ment roles — coupled with have been tendered into its $20 a share all-cash offer. Simon and sign for the Gap brand. She left pick people, who are strong in Kmarts focus on building exclu- partner Westfield America Inc. also extended the tender offer the company in 2001, during an their own right, who can say, sive, lifestyle brands — could in- deadline again, this time to midnight on Oct. 3, from Aug. 29. exodus of high-level executives, ‘Yes, we do.’” dicate the discounter is taking a Taubman once again rejected the entreaty, saying the partner- and has since worked as an in- Arnold Aronson, managing di- page from competitor Target’s ship’s acquisition of about 31.5 million, or less than 39 percent, dependent consultant. rector of retail strategies for book. of the approximately 81 million Taubman voting shares, which Two other newly appointed ex- Kurt Salmon Associates, said the Regardless, execution remains include common and preferred stock, is “clearly insufficient to ecutives, Bruce Johnson and appointments were “a real ne- “the big challenge,” Aronson meet Simon’s own minimum tender offer condition to purchase Janet Kelly, will also report to Day. cessity” and might signal a wel- noted. “Kmart has a very sensi- the company,” since approximately 54 million voting shares must Johnson starts in October as come culture shift for Kmart. tive timeline in which to make approve any sale or amendment to Taubman’s charter. senior vice president of supply “If this means they are going progress. I would give [execu- chain and operations, the same to encourage a primary focus on tives] credit for a strong first step, ● BANNED FROM BOTSWANA: The Committee for the position he held with Paris-based developing a relevant merchan- to get the people in place. Now, Implementation of Textile Agreements, an interagency group, mass retailer Carrefour SA. Kelly, dise assortment, then I think it’s they’ve got to give these people has issued a two-year order to the Bureau of Customs & Border formerly executive vice president a very strong first step,” he said. running room.” Protection to deny entry into the U.S. of textile and apparel products from Uni-Oriental (Pty) Ltd., which is based in Botswana. Bureau officials conducted an on-site verification in- spection of Uni-Oriental in Botswana and then informed CITA that Uni-Oriental was either illegally transhipping, had closed Levi’s to Cut 300 Jobs in Europe or was unable to produce records to verify production. PARIS — Levi Strauss & Co. on occur in Brussels, with the rest He added that Levi’s Europe Tuesday said it would cut 300 spread across the continent. would begin to introduce in- WWDStock Market Index for September 2 jobs in its European division as it Levi’s said that the proposals season deliveries later this moves to streamline production were presented to its European year. Meanwhile, the company Composite: 120.50 Broadline Stores: 121.38 Softline Stores: 125.88 and delivery in Europe’s increas- Works Council for the obligatory is gearing up to launch its first ingly competitive jeans market. consultation period. store devoted to exclusively to The change at the Brussels- A Levi’s spokesman charac- girls’ apparel. It is slated to based division comes after two terized the restructuring as open Sept. 20 in Paris. 1.56 1.84 1.37 years of cost-cutting, which part of an effort to “develop For the quarter ended May also included a hiring freeze. product quicker and more effi- 25, Levi’s in Europe reported Vendors: 113.00 Textiles: 126.83 Levi’s currently employs about ciently. We want to be able to sales of $261.2 million, up 8.2 Index base of 100 is 4,800 people across Europe, in- generate more newness by re- percent from a year earlier. keyed to closing prices cluding 500 in Brussels. ducing the time it takes to get Worldwide, Levi’s sales grew of Dec. 31, 2002. One hundred of the cuts will new products on the shelf.” 0.7 percent to $930 million. 0.82 6.55 ADay in the Life of Pink Poodle

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XBlack Black cotton cotton DTI Applications Launching at Lyon Fair dress suit with with eel pleated ready acceptance of the Lycra extremely high in terms of con- collar. eel By Karyn Monget brand linked to well-being sumer interest,” she said. sleeves. NEW YORK — DuPont Textiles & benefits.” “We undertook a thorough in- Interiors will be launching an Bill Ghitis, president of glob- vestigative process to be sure of extension of several revolution- al apparel, said DTI believes three things: that we understood ary concepts at the Lyon, Mode there is a “big opportunity for the benefits most relevant to con- City trade fair in Lyon, France the apparel industry to capital- sumers in specific garment cate- this Sunday. ize on one of today’s most pow- gories, that we had the technolo- They are applications on erful lifestyle trends.” He added gy to deliver these at a meaning- yarn-based finishes and mi- that he sees growing consumer ful level and that we could pro- croincapsulated fabric treat- interest with physical and emo- vide the product assurance and ments that claim to deliver cos- tional well-being as an attrac- marketing support needed to metic and well-being benefits. tive, sustainable market that al- make this a realistic proposition The first products to be un- ready has stimulated new busi- for mainstream brands and re- veiled and marketed will be ness growth in sectors as di- tailers,” said Burich. Body Care by Lycra, which will verse as cosmetics, nutrition, Ghitis said the Body Care by offer freshness, moisturizing health, leisure and travel. Lycra concept is based on tech- and massage applications to in- “It calls for a new form of nology from DTI’s research and timate apparel and hosiery. apparel creativity and we have development, as well as al- DTI’s Body Care innovations at it,” said Ghitis. “Through this liances with other textile con- Lyon will be followed by other new Body Care by Lycra collec- cerns and suppliers to the cos- concepts, including aromathera- tion, we can help retailers and metics industry. py; firming and anticellulite ap- brands differentiate everyday “The industry needs broad plications, and tanning proper- products in ways that have input to drive textile science in ties in a wide range of apparel, strong consumer appeal and ways that will generate business beginning in 2004. interest.” growth,” he said. “Although DTI’s Meg Burich, DTI’s new busi- Burich noted research con- own R&D pipeline is strong, ness development director, ducted by DTI confirms both we’re ready to put our product said the “unique stretch and women and men like the idea of development resources and mar- recovery properties of Lycra well-being in clothes, especially ket access knowledge at the dis- are an integral part of deliver- items worn close to the body. posal of others. The more hot ing these new functionalities, Applications of freshness, mas- ideas we can ship, the more we and consumer research shows sage and moisturizing “all rated all benefit.”

their runway model counterparts.

DESTINATION BRYANT PARK: Fashion Fashion Scoops addicts have another reason to go to eBay. W Hotels is auctioning “Catwalk for a Cause,” a weeklong SWIM LIKE EVA: The role fashion produced by Sabelt, a Turin-based sojourn to this month’s spring 2004 has played in Eva Herzigova’s life sports footwear firm that is owned edition of 7th on Sixth, with bidding has always been a large one, but by the family of her boyfriend, through Sept. 12. Proceeds will it’s about to get even bigger. The Gregorio Marsiaj. benefit Fashion Targets Breast model’s spokeswoman confirmed Cancer. Herzigova is about to launch a WIGGED OUT: If there’s a charity of The winner will score seats at swimwear collection. The line, choice for the fashion crowd, it’s fashion shows — Michael Kors, La Dolce Vita featuring about 12 swimsuits and New Yorkers for Children. The Tommy Hilfiger, Catherine NEW YORK — Alison Miller, the creative force a dozen other complementing latest company to get behind it is Malandrino, Lacoste, Luca Luca pieces such as cover-ups and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, and Anna Sui are on the agenda — behind AlidioMichelli, followed up her debut fall pants, will bow for spring. There which is donating to the charity a backstage tour, access to the collection with a lineup for spring that features are few details on the line’s proceeds from the opening party for closing-night bash, a shopping production and distribution. Prices its store at 3 East 57th Street on spree, car service, dinner, a few artistically constructed jackets in cotton or eel will likely start at around $110 Thursday night. What’s more, the other freebies and, of course, skin and little dresses with eel skin details. The retail, or 100 euros in local event also will mark the unveiling accommodations at the W. After all currency, and distribution will be of YSL’s window displays, as the festivities, the freshly minted overall look is classic — great-fitting feminine international but selective, the inspired by the fall collection and fashionista can take another suits with men’s wear-inspired shirts, relaxed spokeswoman said. Herzigova also ad campaign — meaning the complementary getaway, thanks to is busy designing her own ballet mannequins will be sporting the two free tickets on Song Airlines, a trenchcoats paired with a stingray belt and easy slipper. Her creation will be same wild Diana Ross hairdos as Delta carrier for the stylish set. little dresses for day or evening, all in cotton, silk or superfine wool.

Burgundy Black eel jacket cotton Dunhill Closing Old Bond Street Unit with dress cotton By Samantha Conti euros). Dollar figures have been mont AG plummeted 22.3 per- cream converted from the euro at cur- cent to $700 million (642 million LONDON — The downsizing at rent exchange. euros) from a combination of pants. Dunhill is stretching across the Dunhill’s store, at 21 Old falling sales, a rising euro, loss- Atlantic. Bond Street, opened in April es at the Dunhill and Lancel di- Alfred Dunhill said in a 2001 and is little more than 300 visions, as well as restructuring statement it will shutter its yards from the brand’s historic and investment costs. unit on London’s Old Bond location at 48 Jermyn Street. Financial analysts applauded Street in February. A spokes- The statement said the Old Bond Richemont’s decision to down- woman for Dunhill’s parent, Street unit was redundant. size Dunhill and Lancel. Compagnie Financiere Riche- “Both stores are of flagship “Richemont was in denial mont, said the closure is part of proportions…and both have the about the Dunhill and Lancel a previously announced re- capacity to offer bespoke tailor- businesses, which are incurring structuring plan. ing, watchmaking and cus- massive losses. They needed to “The closure is part of strate- tomization services,” the state- make some tough decisions, gic location thinking. We have to ment said. “After much reflec- and now they’re on the road to close some stores to make other tion, it was felt that 21 Old Bond recovery,” said Andrew Gowen, ones work,” she said. The Street is too close to the brand’s an equities analyst at Lehman spokeswoman declined to say key heritage site for a store of Brothers in London, earlier whether there would be further this size.” this year. closures in Europe. The statement added that the Two years ago, Richemont had In March, Richemont said it Jermyn Street unit would be embarked on a relaunch for planned to downsize troubled renovated starting early next Dunhill with plans for a world- Dunhill’s retail operations in the spring. The company has recent- wide rollout of 250 new genera- U.S. and focus largely on whole- ly finished refurbishing its other tion stores over a five-year period. sale activities in that market. In heritage site at 15 Rue de la Paix The company’s goal has been to 2002, Dunhill’s sales fell 7 per- in Paris. remove Dunhill from its reliance cent, and combined losses for As reported, in the fiscal year on sales in Asia and restore it to the Dunhill and Lancel brands ending March 31, net profit at its roots as a quirky, man-of-

PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY were $117 million (107 million Compagnie Financiere Riche- leisure brand. So you know who won. More importantly, what did they wear?

The Emmy Issue Section II: September 23 Close: September 8 Primetime Style

WWD reports on which star wore what on the red carpet at the 55th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards Ceremony — from the gowns to the accessories to the makeup.

Capture the attention of those who set the style trends today — celebrities, stylists, editors and buyers — in the most authoritative wrap-up of Emmy fashion around.

Bonus Distribution: top LA hotels, stores, boutiques, stylists, publicists, studio executives and agents.

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, Senior VP, Group Publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003

Flirty Pretty Things

LAS VEGAS — There was a feeling of optimism at this year’s WWDMAGIC and ISAM shows. The important looks included vibrant colors and playful prints in Hawaiian, Pop Art-influenced, striped and floral patterns. Flirty pleated minis were the skirts of choice, while tracksuits and military-inspired styles continued in unexpected fabrications.

Robin Piccone Collection’s nylon and Lycra spandex halter maillot. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 7

Tag Rag’s acrylic and spandex top and Cotton tank Silver Jeans’ cotton mini. and mini by Vicars N’ Tarts. Leatherock’s cuff at Engel Showroom.

Kenneth Cole’s Rayon and nylon nylon and spandex jacket and top; Manhattan trackpants and Beachwear’s cotton and rayon T- bikini bottom. shirt, all from JLo by Jennifer Lopez. THE HARD ROCK HOTEL & CASINO IN LAS VEGAS; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY THE HARD ROCK HOTEL & CASINO IN LAS VEGAS; STYLED BY

AT

PHOTOS BY JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODEL: CHRISTINA MARIE/CHAMPAGNE TROTT; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY GERALDINE SHAKER-KEKATI; SHOT ON LOCATION SHAKER-KEKATI; GERALDINE HAIR AND MAKEUP BY TROTT; JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODEL: CHRISTINA MARIE/CHAMPAGNE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003

In the Mainstream Special Occasion Leads Atlanta Array By Georgia Lee hems and necklines, as well as full- skirted ballgowns in tulle fabrics. ATLANTA — The energy level at In sportswear, new spring sil- AmericasMart was high, with houettes, especially skirts and busy showrooms, crowded halls blouson or tunic jackets, also stim- and elevators, not only in social- ulated buying. Fabrics such as cot- occasion areas that are now a ton twills and technical and ath- key component of the August letic-inspired blends were jazzed show, but also in sportswear and up with texture and details, from accessories, where exhibitors ribbons and oversized buttons to reported strong sales. touches of hardware. Attendance at the women’s While exhibitors didn’t note and children’s apparel-acces- huge increases in traffic, they sories market, which ran Aug. 21- were satisfied with the caliber of 25 at AmericasMart Apparel, was stores and the size of orders. up 6 percent over last year, Larry Rohrman, principle of according to Lawton Hall, senior Casablanca Bridal, an Anaheim- vice president of AmericasMart. based bridal manufacturer, said Much of the activity concentrat- sales were well over plan. ed around an entire floor devot- “The mart has brought in more ed to bridal, prom, pageant and manufacturers, which helps bring social occasion, called the in more buyers,” he said. FirstLOOK show. Sheppard/Tucker Inc., a mul- “We drew stores that concen- tiline sportswear sales firm, had trate solely on bridal and special a full showroom most of the occasion, along with regular spe- weekend, with buyers some- cialty stores that do crossover times waiting up to 45 minutes to On the runway business [in those areas],” he work a line. Cathy Tucker, prin- in Atlanta, said, adding that attendance ciple, described the show as looks from also benefitted from ongoing “wonderful,” with sales up 30 Cynthia Steffe… ...Tocca… ...and Poleci. outreach programs to out-of-ter- percent over last year. ritory buyers. “We had the best buzz ever in Shopping for a mix of immedi- this room,” she said. “Manu- California, the Northeast and area for prom or homecoming, new 7/8ths-length jackets or ate deliveries, holiday, resort and facturers are offering sharper Midwest, shopped for special- but in more traditional regions, tunics, and retro-inspired sepa- early spring, buyers responded to prices, better design and timely occasion dressing, a category that where high school football is big, rates to pair with stretch jeans. an abundance of fresh color, from deliveries.” represents 28 percent of total such as Michigan, the category is She also opted for cargo pants, neutrals to muted pastels. Big Leon Zekaria, president of sales and up to 50 percent during huge,” he said. shirts and jackets in cotton twills prom trends were dresses with low Windsor, a Los Angeles-based spe- prom season. For prom, he bought beaded and stretch fabrics. backs, beading and asymmetric cialty store chain with 35 stores in “California isn’t as big an dresses with plunging necklines, For younger customers, she backs and illusion fabrics, along picked up sweatsuits and T-shirts with more understated sophisti- from Juicy Couture, and items cated looks. His favorite resource from Allen B. by Allen Schwartz, at AmericasMart was Attitudes by ABS, Laundry and Lacoste. She Debra. He also bought a variety found shopping for her over-45- of looks from Precious Formals year-old customer more difficult. Your supply chain and Tiffany Designs. “There’s plenty for younger While concentrating on customers, but not enough for shouldn’t shackle you. prom, Zekaria also looked for women who want fashion looks vendors who offered suitings with good fit,” she said. with jacket interest, such as For holiday and special occa- splashes of color or unique sion, she bought asymmetric belts, to appeal to young career hemlines and bias-cut silhou- customers. ettes from Kay Unger and Ni- Bridal and special-occasion cole Miller. Like other buyers, store Couture Brides and Belles she said her mother-of-the-bride in Fairhope, Ala., shopped for customers want “young-looking everything from prom to grand- fashion, not the typical uptight mother-of-the-bride. Owners Ka- jacket and skirt looks of the ren DeKay and Kimmerly Moore, past.” She noted Damianou, Teri sought lines that would offer Jon and Chetta B as good MOB some exclusivity for their 3,000- lines. In accessories, McManus square-foot store. bought versatile jewelry, with Seeking young mother-of-the- semiprecious stones and na- bride looks, in lightweight, flow- ture-inspired looks to highlight ing fabrics that offered a bit of necklines. coverage, the owners bought Marigail Mathis, owner of the dresses and separates by Kay eponymous women’s specialty Unger, Gilar and Tadashi. They store in Florence, Ala., hit the liked details like Shani’s ribbon show with a budget even with and 3-D floral touches and last year. Demetrios’ gowns with sophisti- “Business in the first half of cated styling, which also work the year was great, but summer for Mardi Gras. has been slow, so sales overall They ordered low-back shapes are even with last year,” she said. That’s why you need the flexibility of Waitex’s in pastels by their best-selling Surveying the market for an end-to-end supply chain. prom line, Gilar, which also early spring overview, she For over 20 years, Waitex has provided end-to-end supply offers special orders and quick described offerings as “full of chain solutions for hundreds of satisfied clients. From turnarounds, they said. energy and fun, giving consumers warehouse distribution and internet mail order fulfillment Ruth McManus, owner of a reason to buy.” Shopping for Who’s Who in Albany, Ga., shop- must-have items only, she bought to the latest in IT solutions including EDI, order processing ped for spring and holiday looks. skirts with movement, and blou- and remote access — we make sure every link of your supply She bought tropical prints for son tops and updated peplum chain is solid. With 800 service specialists and over 2 million customers with nearby beach jackets that accent the waistline square feet of modern distribution facilities located in NY, NJ, homes, from resources including from Elliott Lauren. She liked and LA, we can satisfy all your needs. Lilly Pulitzer. She liked all the color, prints and new embellish- Don’t let your supply chain hold you back. To learn pale, neutral, and citrus colors ment by Alberto Makali. for spring, that would give cus- Eschewing basics in favor of more about what Waitex can do for you or to arrange a free tomers a reason to buy. items with a “wow” factor, she assessment of your company just contact Candice or Leslie. While Olsen and Isda are two bought printed denim jackets by of her most tried-and-true re- Walking Art Australia and novel- sources, she also shopped for ty cashmere tops by One Girl P:: 212.764.8989 F: 212.764.9332 WAITEX.COM [email protected] items to mix from a variety of Who. She also chose novelty jew- 525 7TH AVENUE, 2ND FLR. NEW YORK, NY 10018 lines, such as BCBG and Ann elry by Simon Sebbag and May. In silhouettes, she liked Andrea Barnette. For appointment, contact John Wagner at 212-703-9179 1411 Broadway, 27th Floor, New York, NY 10018 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003

In the Mainstream

SOFTWEAR SALES: Jeffrey Evans is taking over the new IN THE MIDDLE position of vice president of sales with responsibility for the East Coast at Softwear by Mark Singer and Educating Fashion Vikki Vi, a City of Commerce, Calif.-based, better-priced manufacturer. The firm, with annual sales of $25 million, is also settling into its new By Evan Clark margin assistance in the form of a check: The all- showroom at 214 West 39th Street in Manhattan. Evans brings with him too-familiar chargeback. over 25 years experience in the industry, the last six of which were spent NEW YORK — It’s back-to-school time, but it’s “It’s very important for the manufacturer to with Kellwood Co., where he most recently was national sales manager for not just the students who are dusting off their understand that assistance must be applied to fac- the Emme collection. calculators. tors on the profit-loss statement that appear above Retail math is a key skill for vendors who have the gross margin line,” said Salem. VISION REWARDED: The Moore College of Art & Design will hold its first to understand their customers’ businesses and be That means the money from that check should Visionary Woman Awards Celebration in Philadelphia on Sept. 23. able to figure out more than just that season’s fash- be used to increase the initial markup or reduce Receiving awards will be fashion designer Adrienne Vittadini; urban ion formula. the markdown, rather than go directly to the bot- planner, architect and teacher Denise Scott Brown, and artist Jane Golden. “Young, middle-level management in most of tom line of the department within the retailer The presenting sponsor for the award, which was instituted to honor women leaders who have impacted the world of art and design, is The It’s very important for the manufacturer to understand that Albert M. Greenfield Foundation. “assistance must be applied to factors on the profit-loss statement that appear above the gross margin line.” Stage Net Down 11.9% — Robert Salem, FIT NEW YORK — Stage Stores ronment, and occupancy costs Inc. posted double-digit earn- rose because of the addition of these [vendor firms] are very smart, but most of that’s collecting the money. ings declines for the second 19 stores compared with a year them have no formal retail background,” said If the money’s applied directly to the depart- quarter and first half. ago. Results were aided by “re- Robert Salem, an adjunct assistant professor at ment’s bottom line, the vendor’s performance For the three months ended duced shrink expense, as well the Fashion Institute of Technology, who also con- might appear worse than it actually was to higher- Aug. 2, net income fell 11.9 per- as higher income from our sults for companies in the industry through the ups in the organization. cent to $9.1 million, or 45 cents credit card program and lower school’s Center for Professional Studies. Maureen Sullivan, director of organization a diluted share, from $10.4 mil- incentive compensation ex- The center holds about 500 seminars a year, development at Liz Claiborne described retail lion, or 47 cents, in the year-ago pense,” Scarborough noted. some open to the public and some specifically for math as a critical skill, so much so that the quarter. Sales were essentially The Houston-based operator certain companies. While the center offers firm uses a variety of educational services to flat, creeping down to $207.5 of 366 stores in 13 states said it instruction in several areas, including merchan- offer instruction on the subject at different million from $207.7 million, expects to close on its sale of its dising, retail math is one of the hottest areas of skill levels. and comparable-store sales private label credit card busi- study right now. A deeper understanding of the math used were off 3.5 percent. ness to Alliance Data Systems Among the center’s clients are Dolce & by retailers, she said, helps develop the abili- Jim Scarborough, chairman, in September. In addition, it Gabbana and Liz Claiborne Inc. ty to independently analyze interactions with president and chief executive of- will introduce Polo by Ralph Salem brings with him to the classroom more customers. ficer, said in a statement that the Lauren in five of its stores this than 40 years in the industry. In 2001, he retired “It allows our associates to be more sophisticat- company is showing signs of im- month and will increase that as corporate vice president of marketing at Leslie ed around problem solving,” said Sullivan. provement, “including progress number to 25 stores in October. Fay Co., after 11 years with the company. Claiborne has a broad program providing con- in reducing the rate of decline For the six months, income He said many of the people who take his class- tinuing education for its 11,000 employees that in our comparable-store sales. fell 20 percent to $22.5 million, es are uncomfortable with simple arithmetic, but makes use of inside talent — senior executives Additionally, we maintained or $1.14, from $28.1 million, or know they need to speak the language of their sometimes teach courses — and outside sources, lower inventory levels through- $1.29, last year. Sales fell 2.1 retail customers. such as FIT. out the 13-week period.” percent to $405.7 million from Here’s a quick lesson in gross-margin math: “Development is one of the key competencies Margins were reduced by $414.2 million. After a sales performance that fell short of that we as an organization are focusing on this the highly promotional envi- —Vicki M. Young expectations, a vendor is giving a retailer gross year and next,” said Sullivan. SPARKLE AND SHINE Solomon Taps Accounting Exec NEW YORK — Irwin Cohen has joined the in- reviews which led to their pending acquisitions SATIN AND vestment banking firm of Peter J. Solomon Co. in by Alloy and Jones Apparel Group, respectively. the new post of senior adviser. “Given what’s been going on with mergers and Cohen, 62, recently retired from the interna- acquisitions and regulatory issues that have aris- STRETCH tional accounting and consulting firm of Deloitte en recently, I think this is going to be a very nice Touche Tohmatsu. After heading its retail prac- combination and marriage,” Cohen said. “Taking tice in the U.S. for more the volatility in retail and SEPARATES than 20 years, he was global wholesale and on the ac- head of the consumer prod- counting side, we will be ucts, retail and services able to provide additional practice before he retired. services to businesses we’re Peter Solomon, chairman already involved with.” of the firm that bears his Cohen, who reports to name, noted Cohen’s pres- Solomon, believes the funda- ence “will add to PJSC’s mentals are in place for an abilities to integrate our in- economic recovery, but he dependent financial expert- doesn’t expect the pressure ise with sound accounting on retail and apparel firms to advice as part of our invest- abate in the least, increasing ment banking services. In the likelihood of greater in- our specific role as inde- dustry consolidation. pendent financial adviser to “There’s a big issue in the special committees of that there’s simply too much boards and to boards of di- retail space in the U.S.,” he rectors as a whole, Irwin will said. “The fundamentals are add to our insight into poten- there for an economic re- tial accounting pitfalls and covery, but you’re not going ambiguities and help our to see the rip-roaring econo- clients fashion their analy- my we had in the Nineties. ses of potential transactions If Wal-Mart adds $40 billion so they can be as prudent a year on the top line, that’s and wise as possible.” Irwin Cohen more than nearly all their PJSC served as a finan- competitors do. A number of cial adviser to Lands’ End in its acquisition by retailers are going to have problems building Sears, Roebuck & Co., to Office Depot in its acqui- their top lines and they won’t be able to do it sition of Pinault-Printemps-Redoute SA’s Guilbert only with new stores. unit and to Perry Ellis International in its sale to “The economy may improve, but I think we’re Supreme International, among other transactions in for a sea change at retail in any event,” Cohen and restructurings. Of recent import, it was con- concluded. sultant to Delia’s and Kasper A.S.L. in strategic — Arnold J. Karr WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 11 Akris Goes Sleek With Madison Flagship By Anamaria Wilson more human feel. It’s very important that there is a flow and a feeling in the stores.” NEW YORK — Shopping for luxury goods Although this is not Akris’ first foray has long been a tactile experience. into the American retail scene — it has a And for Albert Kriemler, designer and store in Boston and sells the label at owner of the Swiss fashion house Akris, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and creating a New York flagship that reflect- Bergdorf Goodman — the prominence of a ed a sensuous aesthetic was key. As a Madison Avenue storefront certainly marks man who prefers to sketch with a piece a major step in the company’s growth. of fabric in hand, the designer was intent “It’s really important for us to open in on having shoppers “feel” the space. New York because it exposes us to the “Opening a store in New York has public on a daily basis. Our collec- been a big dream of mine for the last 20 tion and brand will be much years,” said Kriemler. “The idea was to more visible to people,” have it be modern and warm. It should said Kriemler. feel more like a home.” The family-owned The store, located at 835 Madison company, which was Avenue, opens today. The 4,000-square-foot founded in 1922, is space, designed by German architect now run by the Christoph Sattler, is infused with European third generation — elements such as blonde maple wood from Albert and his Switzerland, limestone for the floors im- brother Peter, who ported from a quarry in Spain and hand-ap- is the chief execu- Views of Akris’ new Madison Avenue store. plied Venetian plastered white walls. tive officer. While The multilevel store is an exercise in they declined to modernity with muted tones, steel fix- give volume figures, building up Akris tures and chocolate-colored, modular the Kriemlers are shop-in-shops leather chairs. The natural light provid- projecting first-year with their retailers ed by the original windows in the back of store sales of approxi- like Bergdorf Good- the space casts a domestic feel to the mately $6 million. man, Neiman Marcus store. Yet Kriemler’s taste for the tactile Retail prices range from and Saks Fifth Avenue, as is evident in the seamless beige wool car- $500 to $800 for Akris daywear well as with Canadian retail- pet, a bone-colored leather covered wall, pieces, like tops and pants; $3,000 for er Holt Renfrew. as well as black horsehair panels. suits, and $4,000 to $12,000 for evening Other Akris boutiques are located in “It’s definitely more unusual than pieces. Prices for Akris Punto, the lower- Boston, Paris, Monte Carlo, Düsseldorf, other shop concepts, but I felt very priced sportswear collection, range from Frankfurt, Seoul, Tokyo and Vienna. strongly that our stores have to have $600 to $1,200 for jackets; $300 to $450 for The Kriemlers plan to open additional their own identity,” said Kriemler. tops and pants, and $200 to $900 for knits. stores in London, Munich, Hamburg, Curved walls were an important ele- The company’s business is currently 80 the Netherlands, Amsterdam and ment in the space as well. Kriemler is an percent wholesale and 20 percent retail. Brussels; as well as Asian locales like advocate of these kidney shaped niches in Despite having two freestanding boutiques Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Hong order to “to give a rectangular space a in the U.S., the Kriemlers are focused on Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA Specify TAC on your Tech Packs & see the Savings! Why walk when
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Chinese cities including Shenzhen are starting to grow as importers from the U.S. and EU set up offices to coordinate sourcing from that nation.

China’s Yuan-Two Punch

Continued from page one He argued that he doesn’t believe the U.S. will actually could come up with other ways to boost exports and limit of loopholes in a China-U.S. trade deal that could allow push China all that hard to revalue its currency, because imports if it wished to. the U.S. to clamp down tightly on Chinese imports if he said that nation is a major buyer of Treasury bonds. Some importers argued it’s also possible that China’s they disrupt the U.S. market. “They are our creditors and we’re not going to take currency is fairly valued, reasoning that its apparel Ira Kalish, the author of a recently released Deloitte any action to upset them,” he said. export prices are comparable to those of other develop- Research study on China’s growing role in the world Jock Nash, Washington attorney for Spartanburg, ing nations. economy, has an answer for both questions: Yes. S.C.-based Milliken & Co., said he considered the grow- “I don’t know that it is artificially low,” said Peter “My own belief is that there will be a deal be- McGrath, president of purchasing at Plano, Tex.- tween the U.S. and China, where China agrees to based J.C. Penney Co. Inc., who also serves as revalue its currency and the U.S. agrees to hold off More Than Clothes head of the U.S. Association of Importers of on doing anything protectionist,” Kalish said in a Textiles & Apparel. “A lot of the merchandise we phone interview. China’s Exports to the U.S., the European Union and Japan More Than Clothes order from India, Pakistan and Vietnam is com- It’s a theory that met with a range of reactions China’s Exports to the U.S., the European Union and Japan (1997-2001), in billions petitively priced.” among industry observers, with some calling it China’s currency, the yuan, is sometimes plausible and others dismissing it out of hand. CATEGORY 2001 1997 PERCENTAGE OF CHANGE referred to as the renminbi, which is a denomina- Currently, the Chinese government keeps the tion of yuan — similar to cents to the dollar. In the yuan pegged at an exchange rate of about 8.29 to Office and Telecom Equipment $45.32 $20.40 122.1% past, the country had maintained two currencies, the dollar. It has maintained this exchange rate by Electrical machinery and apparatus $19.18 $10.03 91.2% with renminbi, literally “people’s money” intend- buying up foreign currency and keeping large Clothing $32.46 $24.44 32.9% ed for use of locals and yuan for foreigners. Those amounts of yuan in circulation. China’s foreign cur- Toys and Games $21.30 $16.02 33.0% restrictions are no longer in place. rency reserves currently stand at about $325 bil- As the dollar in recent months has declined lion, up from about $50 billion in 1994, the report Footwear $14.03 $11.02 27.4% against other world currencies, including the euro said, citing International Monetary Fund data. Furniture $8.34 $2.82 195.8% and Japanese yen, China’s currency has slid in lock- China’s fixed exchange rate has become a major Other Consumer Goods $75.33 $50.10 50.4% step, putting further pressure on those economies. political issue in the past few weeks. Treasury “The U.S. has an interest in seeing China reval- Secretary John Snow on Tuesday traveled to Beijing, SOURCE: DELOITTE RESEARCH, CITING WTO DATA ue its currency for a variety of reasons that go where he urged Chinese officials to allow the yuan to beyond apparel,” Kalish explained. He is global float freely, according to wire-service reports. His director of consumer business at the consulting comments came a day after top Chinese officials said firm and author of the 26-page report “The World’s they had no intention of floating the yuan. Cost of Doing Business Factory, China Enters the 21st Century,” which was “From what I understand, China is pretty deter- Monthly Wages of Production Workers in China and Other Asian Cities, 2003 released last month. mined not to float until they are good and ready,” While the weak currency makes all kinds of said Conrad Lung, president of Sunnex Inc., a New Shanghai, China $153-$261 Chinese consumer goods appear cheaper than York importer. “But the stakes are so high for both they would otherwise be, it also artificially sides, I’m sure they’re going to find some way to Dalian, China $64-$151 reduces the spending power of Chinese con- lessen the impact.” Shenyang, China $117-$193 sumers. So, if the yuan and renminbi rose in value, Lung said he believed it is important for the U.S. Chongqing, China $104-$161 the move would not just lift pressure off competing to recognize that, in dealing with China, it’s not Shenzhen, China $103-$339 manufacturers in the U.S. and elsewhere in the necessarily in a position to act unilaterally. With its world. It would also make China — with its popu- enormous population and growing economic power, Taipei, Taiwan $749-$1,308 lation of 1.29 billion people — a more accessible China is perhaps positioned to become the world’s Bangkok, Thailand $163 market for many foreign suppliers. next superpower. Jakarta, Indonesia $108 At the same time, Kalish reasoned, China is des- “The U.S. cannot say, ‘This is what I want to do,’ Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam $101-$134 perate to prevent the U.S. from sharply curtailing and expect China to say, ‘Fine,’” Lung said. rising Chinese imports in 2005, when the 146 World For their part, textile lobbyists said they regard- New Delhi, India $138 Trade Organization members will drop all quotas ed it as highly unlikely that China would float its SOURCE: DELOITTE RESEARCH, CITING JAPAN EXTERNAL TRADE ORGANIZATION DATA on textiles and apparel. As a part of the bilateral currency anytime soon. trade accord that paved the way for China’s WTO “They won’t do it,” said Charles Bremer, director of ing exchange-rate debate “a diversion” from the discus- entry, the U.S. has a lot of leeway in limiting Chinese international trade at the American Textile sion of trade policy and its effect on U.S. employment. imports, either through tariffs or temporary quotas, if Manufacturers Institute. “There is a lot more at stake “The problem with China is that they have 1.3 billion those imports prove a disruption to the U.S. market. here than just trade in textiles and clothing. It affects workers that are educated, dedicated and low wage,” he The American textile industry this year has been gain- everything they export.” said. “They are going to beat us whether the yuan is cor- ing ground in its effort to get the government to invoke Bremer called the Kalish’s trade-off theory “a fig- rectly valued or not.” those safeguard measures against China in several cate- ment of one’s imagination.” He said even if China were to float its currency, it gories of merchandise that have already seen quotas lifted. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 13

The Chinese, Kalish said, “are concerned that a pro- where in the world in recent years have traveled back to Japan came to $14.76 billion, up 40.7 percent tectionist move [by the U.S.] would hurt their apparel their homeland to set up manufacturing bases. The cap- The fact that China’s apparel shipments to Japan industry, which employs a lot of people.” italists, who have come from nearby Hong Kong and exceed its shipments to the U.S. even though the U.S. has Apparel employment is particularly critical to China, points as distant as New York’s Chinatown, have a pow- more than twice the population of Japan, illustrates he said, because the country is trying to reinvent its erful combination of business and cultural knowledge. China’s strong dominance of that market. China supplies economy. For many years, millions of Chinese were “These business people feel comfortable going into 70 percent of Japan’s apparel imports, the report said. employed in inefficient state-run enterprises that, China. They speak the language, they were bold in put- Japan does not regulate apparel imports with quotas. according to observers, were managed with an eye ting capital into China and there has been a spiraling Kalish said he considered it highly unlikely that toward employing the largest number of people, rather effect,” Kalish said. “Once one person goes in, someone China’s share of the U.S. market would ever get quite than operating in a cost-effective manner. else feels more comfortable, and it sort of builds on itself. that high, since he believed that U.S. importers would As China privatizes many of its state-run businesses, The result is that, over time, a tremendous knowledge continue to want some diversification, particularly into those companies will likely continue to lay off workers, base has been developed. At the same time, the Chinese more local suppliers, like those in Latin America that creating an employment vacuum, Kalish said. The lay- government invested a lot in the physical infrastructure.” can offer quicker turns and proximity advantages. offs of workers in those companies, combined with the That training has made Chinese workers formidable Still, he acknowledged that China’s share of the world continuing migration of rural Chinese — who still repre- competitors even though in some cases their wages have apparel market is likely to grow sharply after quotas are sent about 70 percent of the population — into cities and risen above those in other Asian nations. Citing Japan dropped on Dec. 31, 2004. The report said China’s share residents of Western provinces into the industrial east, External Trade Organization data, the report said in of world apparel exports rose from 4 percent in 1980 to makes creating new jobs an urgent goal for the Chinese 2003 the monthly wage for a worker in the growing pro- 16.7 percent in 1998, and predicted that figure could government, he said. duction area around Shanghai was between $153 and approach 45 percent by the second half of the decade. Kalish predicted that over the next decade, as many $261 a month. That’s well over the comparable $108 a One wild card that many sourcing executives have as 300 million Chinese could move into cities seeking month prevailing wage in Jakarta, Indonesia. (See relat- faced regarding Chinese exports is what will happen to employment, which he said “could well be the largest ed chart, this page.) quota charges when the quota system is dismantled. migration of any kind anywhere over human history.” A Many retailers are turning their attention to Chinese Quota rights are traded more or less as a commodity in migration of that size would China, and in categories almost double the population where quota is scarce, such of China’s cities. as cotton pants, can come to The growth of China’s tex- cost as much as $5 per gar- tile and apparel exports has ment by the end of a year. been staggering — last year, The profits from quota- its shipments to the U.S. rose selling are believed to go to 48.9 percent, according to the Chinese government, Commerce Department data, which has led many to won- making it the U.S.’s leading der whether it will put some supplier in those categories other sort of comparable sys- with a 13.7 percent market tem in place to ensure it does- share. But the report empha- n’t lose a revenue source. sized that apparel hasn’t Kalish said he thinks oth- been the sole, or even the pri- erwise: “They will be willing mary, engine of China’s eco- to let go of that and I think nomic growth. they will offset it by reducing Last year, China’s net their export subsidization.” exports to the world in all cat- The report said those sub- egories of goods came to $325 sidies, which come in the billion, the report said, citing form of a rebate on a value- IMF data. That’s up from $92 added tax for goods that are billion in 1993. Over the past exported, came to about $8.4 six years, exports have repre- billion in 2000. sented about 31.5 percent of While China remains an China’s total growth in gross attractive sourcing location domestic product, which was and will likely become more up 8 percent last year. so when quotas are lifted, China has also seen its Kalish warned there are two exports of computers and potential dangers for Western other high tech products grow suppliers. rapidly. In 2001, its exports of “There is the potential for a office and telecommunica- banking crisis,” he said. “The tions equipment to the U.S., financial system is a mess.” EU and Japan came to $45.32 That’s because Chinese billion, well ahead of its state-owned banks have $32.46 billion in apparel ship- often been pressured to lend ments, the report said, citing money to struggling state- PHOTOS BY MICHAEL S. YAMASHITA/CORBIS PHOTOS BY WTO data. That technical Industry executives said the competitive advantages of Chinese apparel makers go well beyond the government-maintained owned companies to prevent business has grown by 122.1 layoffs. While the banks are exchange rate for the yuan. percent since 1997, while privatizing, they will need to apparel exports have grown 32.9 percent. (See related production. The report offered the following examples: change their credit standards, which may hurt state-run chart, this page.) ● Last year, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. purchased $12 billion companies. Layoffs at those companies, combined with The report offered one reason why China’s electron- worth of all classes of merchandise from China, a number the rising tide of rural-to-urban immigration, has the ics industry is growing so quickly: “Chinese companies it expects to climb to $15 billion this year and between potential to cause unrest. are piggybacking on the technology developed by U.S. $25 billion and $30 billion within five years. The buy was “The biggest danger, in terms of social stability, is the and Japanese companies. They spend a far lower share managed out of a procurement center in Shenzhen, just wrenching process of reforming the state-run enterpris- of revenue on research and thus have a cost advantage.” over the border from Hong Kong. By way of comparison, es that employ a lot of people,” he said. “As long as for- Kalish said he believes the eign investment is coming in Chinese government is “more and the economy is growing, focused on high-tech areas” You have almost an entire planet right there and so it’s possible the excess labor will be than on apparel manufactur- “ absorbed. If the economy ing, both because there is less to do a wide range of value-added processes. should slow down for any potential in that industry for ”— Ira Kalish, Deloitte Research reason, or if there is a prob- the U.S. government to crack lem with investment, there down on imports and because of the greater earnings Wal-Mart in June reached a deal to import $800 million could be a vast increase in unemployment.” potential. worth of goods from Brazil, which has seen its global Kalish added that there’s one other important thing Traditionally, industrializing economies move exports pick up following a currency devaluation. for U.S. companies to bear in mind as they structure their through industries in stages, starting with low-skilled, ● Carrefour last year bought $1.6 billion in Chinese Chinese operations. A foothold in the country, even intend- labor-intensive areas like apparel manufacturing, and goods, up 27 percent from 2001. The French retailer has ed to produce goods for export, can also serve as a launch- from there moving on to higher-tech products. For moved its global purchasing center to China, where it ing pad into the Chinese consumer market. There is a nas- instance, Japan and South Korea got their manufactur- has offices in 11 cities. cent middle class in China, which is buying cars, mobile ing engines turning by making garments, but have since ● Tesco last year bought about $500 million worth of phones and other consumer goods that are out of reach for largely moved on to other products. Chinese merchandise, an amount it expects to triple in many in a country with a per-capita GDP of $4,400. In China, multiple classes of export-oriented industry the next few years. It has opened a regional sourcing Given the country’s massive population, Kalish said are developing at the same time. Kalish said that’s a office in Shenzhen, as well. as a consumer market, China is “at the threshold of result of China’s immense size. ● Gap Inc. buys about 14 percent of its goods from becoming quite important. It has been growing rapidly.” “You have almost an entire planet right there and so Hong Kong and China. The retailer last year had $14.5 In today’s cutthroat apparel industry, where executives it’s possible to do a wide range of value-added processes billion in sales. fight over each nickel of cost in a garment, the birth of a in a country with that broad range of incomes and infra- Kalish said he obtained the numbers from those four significant middle class in a country is often a harbinger structure and education levels,” he said. “In some ways, companies. of the exit of U.S. importers — Mauritius, for instance, has it’s similar to the way the U.S. was 100 years ago — a vast China’s apparel exports to the U.S. have grown swift- recently weathered an exodus of manufacturers. country that was capable of some very high-value-added ly — its 2001 imports of $9.28 billion were up 19.4 percent But considering the continuing flood of people out of processes, but also had a lot of cheap labor.” compared with $7.77 billion in 1997, the report said. But rural farming districts and into cities, Kalish said China Another factor that has allowed a relatively quick that rate of growth has been greatly outpaced by its faces no shortage of low-cost workers. He said, “There’s development of China’s industrial base is that many growth to the EU, where it imported $8.43 billion in mer- at least another 20 years of significant apparel manufac- Chinese expatriates who had opened businesses else- chandise, up 36.5 percent from 1997. Its shipments to turing in China.” 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 WWD West

Lime “Kitten” White jacket Red denim Floral print tube top with hardware jacket by paisley and miniskirt and narrow- FCUK Jeans, minidress by by Who’s Who. leg pants by salmon tank by Hot Kiss. Hot Kiss. TL Blake and floral skirt by French Connection. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY MAGIC Senses Buying Ahead

LAS VEGAS — Rainstorms might have skirts and satin and leather jackets. weren’t planning to bring women’s wear signaled an ominous atmosphere, but re- SPRING TRENDS At the hot, nine-month-old Los to this show, but we’ve gotten a strong re- tailers’ sunny outlook buoyed the pair of Angeles resource Da-Nang, designer sponse from buyers who’ve come across MAGIC trade shows during their four-day ■ Neon colors Estelle Dahan took her comfortable it unexpectedly.” run here last week. ■ Muted blues, reds and burnt orange cargo concept a step further by adding In the Streetwear section, most of the While retailers readily conceded sales ■ pastel pieces in frayed linen and striped buzz swirled around celebrity-endorsed are flat compared with the same period Pleated minis cotton, and pleated miniskirts in pastel lines. Eve, Thalía and Tommy Mottola, last year, most predicted robust early fall ■ Denim overalls washed silks with a subtle camo print. Ashanti, Ja Rule, Bow Wow, Nelly, sales portend a brisk holiday. ■ Oversize buttons The poplin and washed silk drawstring Outkast and Jackie Chan all turned out, “It was a scary summer, but now cus- ■ Exotic graphics pants are cleaner, with fewer pockets creating bottlenecks in the aisles. tomers are itching to spend,” said sisters and colored Asian embroidery. Several Kelly Stone, whose Sherman Oaks, ■ Coral and Rebekka Smith, owners of Hawaiian prints skirts and tops now have ruffles and Calif., company specializes in celebrity Sola, a contemporary shop in Austin, ■ Cargoes ruching and printed cotton button-down dressing, was trying to get in on the ac- Tex. They picked up tweed, Fifties glam- ■ Flashdance-inspired tops and sweats shirts are also new to the collection. tion. “I’m here looking for new clients,” our and punk looks at WWDMAGIC, for ■ Short shorts “We’re taking the line away from army to she said, “companies who want to get ex- immediate through spring deliveries. a Malibu lifestyle direction and we’re posure in Hollywood.” ■ Catherine Abdalla, owner of Brothers, Fifties-inspired party dresses getting a great response,” said owner Danny Guez, chief operating officer a 27-year-old shop in Lafayette, La., said SOURCE: THE DONEGER GROUP Albert Dahan. and partner of Innovo Group, parent of customers are buying clothes again, after This pleased retailers like Pam Kidd Eve’s Fetish line, said entertainment months of spending on home improve- “We’re already getting reorders and of Global Entertainment, a Palm stars easily translate to fashion stars and ments. Careful with inventory levels they want cords, cords, cords,” said Desert, Calif., shop, who uttered the that’s an easy sell for department stores. through summer, she had open-to-buy Moshe Tsabag, chairman ceo of Hot oft-heard mantra: “I’m looking for any- “It’s built-in marketing,” he said, noting left over to chase miniskirts, asymmetric Kiss, adding business was ahead 25 per- thing different.” stores were picking up the line’s punk-in- skirts and novelty tops — items “to spice cent at the show compared with last Boutique favorite Von Dutch showed fluenced “chain” group and corsets. up the store. If I had overbought, I would year. The company signed a licensing immediates and spring, not veering much Veteran urban lines, however, must have missed all these looks,” she said. deal with New York’s Fantasia to pro- from its screen-printed tank, capris and buck the celebrity invasion. Retailers were most interested in duce an intimates line of girly, kiss- minis. For spring, there were pieces in “Everyone who has a hit record or miniskirts, either pleated, sailor-style, splattered camisoles, bikinis and thongs pastel and brightly hued rubberized movie is getting in the game,” stated plain or with Pop Art-style pockets. for spring. Tsabag expects the line to denim and vintage-washed capris. Keith Perrin, chief operating officer of Noted Sydney Michelle, owner and buyer pull in $3 million. Over at Lucky Brand and Earl, buyers six-year-old Fubu Ladies. “Anybody can of Trio in Encino, Calif.: “Legs are in, the Bts business also was strong at Zana- were snapping up soft, washed-cotton make a line, but customer loyalty — pelvis is out.” di, which launched a 20-piece sportswear shirts and pants with military details. At that’s what stores want.” To stay relevant, Denim jeans might not be the silver bul- collection that generated interest from Guess, one of the few vendors to show a the New York-based firm showed a black let of retailing anymore, but the fabric has Wet Seal and Gadzooks. Fall looks in- full spring collection, the fashion man- denim mini with leather criss-cross belts, sprung open the door for tops companies. cluded velour sets with rhinestones and date was sheer pastels and layering, fine studded jeans, mesh and Flashdance- Hawaiian Island Creations launched clean cotton tracksuits with dainty pink gauge cotton T-shirts, jackets with utili- style tops, all in expanded sizes. its Ribbons contemporary line of Lycra piping and stitched-on numbers. tarian details like zip-off sleeves and Proving surf is one of spring’s top spandex shirts in tunic styles, Grecian- Although the designer-contemporary grosgrain tape, satin and mesh. Key trends, retailers flocked to Roxy to pick inspired bodies with bell sleeves and D- section of the show was filled mostly with items included the cargo minidress, the up hibiscus prints in muted yellows, reds rings. “Everything is geared to go back to men’s designer casualwear, retail’s most pleated mini, roller girl short-shorts, fit- and blues on swimwear, board shorts and denim,” insisted marketing director popular women’s vendors — Earl Jean, ted piqué polos and side-ruched pants. sundresses. An “Eighties Our Way” group Marci Lackey. Lucky Brand, Blue Cult, Joe’s Jeans, Da- Of course, not everything was geared of pink-and-black checkerboard screen T- For denim to nudge retailer interest, Nang, Guess and Von Dutch — made a to the younger junior and contemporary shirts and day-glow rash guards also gen- manufacturers added some surprises: strong showing. customer. At the gargantuan Izod booth, erated interest. The line is expected to Back pockets stitched in floral shapes News included Joe’s Jeans spin-off women’s wear president Suzanne Karkus increase sales by double-digits this year, like those at Dollhouse; reversible jeans sportswear line Joe’s, which owner Joe was busy selling from her single rack of according to Maria Barnes, national in faded washes at Tomigo, and crinkled Dahan tested at MAGIC International. “It’s spring merchandise at MAGIC sales manager. “Back-to-school is really jeans and angled loops at Hot Kiss. still vintage-inspired, casual sportswear, International. strong and as we’re heading into holiday, Back-to-school was on the minds of jun- but it’s a lot more feminine,” he said. The “Our target customer is 35 to 45, but we think it’s all good news,” she said. iors resources, who said solid sales were line included printed tube tops, trousers, she’s still hip. She wants these preppy — Marcy Medina, Kristin Young fueling optimism, leading to new ventures. metallic linen separates, white denim pieces with a realistic fit,” she said. “We and Nola Sarkisian-Miller WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 15 Funky Club Style Novelty Leads at WWIN Show rganizers of WomensWear in Nevada said they hit the Costello, who noted, “After a tough summer, we’re still cau- Ojackpot during the show, held Aug. 25-28 at the Rio All- tious, but we’re seeing a pick-up in business.” Dominates Edge Suite Hotel & Casino, with exhibitors reporting hearty sales Trends weren’t in abundance, but novelty was. as buyers packed booths seeking holiday and spring looks. Standouts included G.G. Sport’s short, belted trenchcoats he Edge is maintaining its rep as the “We came with low expectations and we were 100 percent in brights and two-tone styles, Simply Roses’ overalls with Tplace to go for club and fetish wear and off the mark,” said Jeff Yunis, co-owner of WWIN show pro- textured appliqués, Globetrotter’s dangling beaded tops. everything in between. ducer Specialty Trade Shows. “Many of our exhibitors said Sales rep Marla Barbin said retailers, including the cat- Though influential lines such as Fine and buyers were dropping paper like they had no inventory.” alog of Marshall Field’s, were buying Anna Ocean silk Emily were missing (having gone upstairs to Free breakfasts and lunches and $15 massages also won Hawaiian-print shirts with solid bottoms, as well as muted show in the streetwear section), there were over attendees. shades of banana and chambray. Overall, she said it was an plenty of new vendors in their places, show- “It’s my favorite market — it’s fun, easy and personal,” “encouraging” market. ing screen-printed tanks and T-shirts, vin- said Betty Morgan, owner of Endless Summer, a shop in G.G. Sport launched Gi-Gi Girl at the show with rayon- tage-inspired looks and pastels and neons Oakdale, Calif. Coming off a strong second quarter — her terry miniskirts, hoodies, pants and fitted cap-sleeve T-shirts. mixed with the requisite black. best in the last 18 months — Morgan picked up I.C. And Modern Curves’ updated leisurewear was selling As such, the new mix presented an oppor- Collection’s tweed-trimmed sheer separates and Hot well, according to design director Veronica Wong. The tunity for buyers looking for new resources. Dames’ embellished resortwear. She planned to spend label is part of In Gauge Design Group, a four-month-old “Since the Hot Topics and Gadzooks of the about $75,000, about flat with last year. division of Sport-Elle Inc. that complements the company’s world are selling Tripp NYC, Dogpile and Top picks for Hawaii boutique Kailua Beachwalk were resortwear. “It’s our response to Juicy,” she said, noting the UFO, I have to find new lines,” said Roni Faith’s pleated capris, ruffle dresses and patchwork skirts, division should do $10 million in its first year. Donaldson of Future Shock in Indianapolis. and Globetrotter’s resort tops, said partner Debbie — N.S.M. “It’s hard because these lines have no loyalty to small retailers, and kids are going to buy them from Hot Topic if they have a price break.” “Since the Hot Topics Loving the Cheap at Off-Price Show and Gadzooks of the world t the Off-Price Specialist Show, won’t help us, the guy down the block cheap, they’ll buy anything.” Aheld at the Sands Expo & Conven- will.’ People are still very price driv- Thomas Panek, owner of Yellows- are selling Tripp NYC, tion Center, Aug. 22-26, bargain en.” Nothing in his booth was over $15. tone Mercantile Co. in Sidney, Mont., hunters led attendance up 10 percent On the other hand, Michael Laimo one of the state’s oldest retailers and Dogpile and UFO, I have to from February’s edition, according to of Mercury Beach Maid in New York, and one of the few small-town Bill Jage, chief executive of show pro- had an advantage due to its sizeable department stores left in the U.S., find new lines. ducer Off-Price Specialist Center. selection of swimwear. Buyers vied said he has no choice but to buy off- — Roni Donaldson,” Future Shock “Everyone waits to shop on sale for tankinis and plus-size cover-ups price to compete with the likes of and even small specialty stores know and separates. “For a change, we’re in Wal-Mart. That was good news for vendors like promotions stimulate sales,” said the driver’s seat,” he said. “We can “One of the ways we’ve survived is Alexandria, Va.,-based resource Gurlie Show, Jage. command the price we want.” Pieces by coming to shows like this and to “who saved up pennies to come here,” accord- Retailers were optimistic about sold between $10 and $20. explore nontraditional retailing,” he ing to co-founder Susie Clancy. “Buyers hit economic futures, but still bartered Misty Brammer and Doug Asermely, said, noting the store is currently established vendors up front, then they trick- hard for velour hoodies and bottoms, owners and buyers of Sick Boy evenly split between regular-priced le back here. But we exceeded our goal by the embellished denim, cargoes, sweaters Motorcycles in Cumberland, R.I., merchandise, off-price goods and second day.” Added her partner Sonja and novelty tops. searched for lace-up jeans and any- closeouts. “It’s working, especially in Letourneau: “I’d rather be down here than Ralph Maya, owner of Maya & Sons, thing with studs bound directly for the a soft economy,” he said, “because lost in the gigantic juggernaut upstairs.” a veteran Los Angeles jobber, said he sale rack. “Everybody shops off the there are too many goods chasing too Juliet Markeson, of the Seattle-based dress often heard from retailers: “‘This is sale rack,” said Asermely, noting it few people.” line Xenoware, another first-time exhibitor, what we’re going to pay and if you helps the store’s profit margin. “If it’s — K.Y. found the show “a little hit-or-miss. When I walked the show last year, I was excited by the versatility, but at times it’s been pretty dead. After lunch, when people have food in their stomachs and a little booze, it’s better.” Meanwhile, Jessica Horton of Dara Pool: Offbeat Lines, From Brooklyn to Japan Denim, a new boutique in Sacramento, enjoyed the show’s scaled-back size as she n its fourth installment, the 120-exhibitor Pool show, at OK 47 and Skaen, and said she was looking for pieces her scouted for well-priced jeans to augment her Ithe Alexis Park Hotel Aug. 24-28, continues to attract spe- customers wouldn’t be likely to find easily elsewhere. designer inventory of Von Dutch, cialty buyers by word-of-mouth. The message of this show Le Villers Popov of Factory People in Austin, Tex., Rock’N’Republic and Serfontaine. “My main seemed to be unusual lines, and some buyers said the focus checked out Eighties-style leather bags from a new Los goal today is funky purses and jewelry, then here was more on clothes, less on hype. While screen- Angeles, resource Em’ Lala, and said she was looking for denim tomorrow,” she said. printed T-shirts were prevalent, the number of women’s “the next big thing” in denim and T-shirts with Japanese Some buyers slipped easily between shows, accessories and clothing lines swelled, and a shoe show graphics. “There’s a lot of nice flavor at this show, from the like Angie Coulter of Daggett Brook Clothing made its debut in an adjacent conference room. Brooklyn vibe to the Japanese aesthetic. It’s perfect in Crosslake, Minn., who stopped momentarily Amid club music and Ping-Pong tables, several new clothes for people to listen to music in.” to watch the faux fashion shoot taking place lines bowed, including London-based Soochi and Choosi, Jamila Payne, owner of online boutique Milla by Mail, atop Serious’ two-story booth. “This is where and a handful of fledgling Los Angeles lines — Touched, who shopped for offbeat items to mix with more main- we find fun things to bring to our small town. Inkd, Belka and Army Pink. Knickers, bias-cut dresses, stream pieces by BCBG, agreed. “There is so much out Later on, we’re going upstairs to get a picture asymmetric jersey tops and miniskirts sold well. there. You totally neglect your customer if you don’t come with Jackie Chan for our local paper.” Wendy Waters, a buyer from Out of the Blue in Winnipeg, to shows like this.” — M.M. sat at a poolside table tabulating her orders from Soochi, — M.M.

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that seemed to feature (albeit briefly) contributing a pair of features on city some very high-profile contenders, it hot spots and fashionista haunts, is a clear signal that executive editor spearheaded by its fashion director MEMO PAD Bill Keller is giving Moss major Mark Holgate and associate editor Debenhams Sales Up decision-making abilities in his new Amy Larocca. It raises the question of READY FOR HER CLOSE UP?: After position as assistant managing editor, why New York has sat the Fashion years of dining out together, Graydon features. (Moss, as was reported in Week sweepstakes out until now. “I 7.9% in Second Half Carter and Fran Leibowitz may be The New York Observer, had been think we save our ammunition for a about to take their relationship to concerned about taking a similar little broader audience,” said New LONDON — Refurbished stores store in Birmingham later this the next level. According to sources, position under former executive editor York editor Caroline Miller. and an improving women’s week and one in Londonderry Carter (who remains mum) is eyeing Howell Raines because he feared he Tonchi’s contributions are a bit more wear business pushed second- later this month, adding 200,000 his old pal as a possible subject for would become a consultant without substantial. Esquire’s fashion creative half sales at Debenhams up 7.9 square feet of trading space. his next film. “He’s thinking of it as “real authority.”) director will moonlight as the guest percent, with same-store sales As reported, Earl and her a ‘My Dinner with Andre’ sort of Marzorati was Moss’ choice all editor of The Daily’s men’s show edition, rising 3.9 percent. top managers have joined thing,” but with Leibowitz instead, along, even though the company had slated for the Monday of Fashion Week. The U.K. department store forces with the private equity said one source. — Jacob Bernstein preliminary conversations with other The Daily’s real editor, Brandusa said Tuesday that for the full fund Permira to bid for the candidates, among them former Spy Niro, is already looking ahead to year ended Aug. 30, total sales store. So far their bid, which ON THE MARK: Confirming a WWD and New York editor Kurt Andersen and March 2004, when IMG Europe will rose 6.7 percent, with like-for- values Debenhams at $2.4 bil- report, The New York Times on perhaps Slate editor Jacob Weisberg. publish six issues of The Daily in like sales up 3.7 percent. lion, converted from the Tuesday formally appointed Gerald In a press release, the Times said English during the Milan shows. Niro Debenhams reported pound at current exchange, Marzorati to succeed Adam Moss as Marzorati would continue to report to is finalizing an arrangement that changes in sales activity but has inspired little sharehold- the editor of the Times Magazine. Moss, whose job gives him oversight of would send her entire team to Milan won’t report earnings and er enthusiasm. As of Aug. 26, Marzorati, 50, has worked at the several sections including the magazine, for the week, where they and a few sales figures until Oct. 14. the first closing date for magazine since 1994, when he joined The New York Times Book Review, and local freelancers will slavishly flatter Gross margin rose 0.4 per- shareholders, Permira had re- as articles editor. He is also the author the Culture and Style desks. — J.B. and lightly mock the same cast of cent during the year and 0.7 ceived approximately 2.22 of “A Painter of Darkness,” a book characters they flattered and mocked percent during its second half. percent of the existing issued about the painter Leon Golub, and has DAILY DOSE: The competition at the just two weeks before. There’s also the “The business is benefiting share capital. Debenhams di- written frequently for the Times and New York shows is heating up matter of how IMG expects to make from our investment in the rectors, who recommended other publications about popular already, with 10 days to go. Us Daily money on the venture, but “even Debenhams brand and our the Permira bid, are neverthe- music, including artists like Björk and is back for a third season, while its though we’re owned by IMG, we’re a stores, along with an improv- less still in talks with CVC Fischerspooner, the artsy electro band rival, IMG’s The Daily, has recruited separate division. We’ll have a Fashion ing performance in women’s Capital Partners/Texas Pacific he trashed in a particularly witty an ally in New York magazine and Week publication where one doesn’t wear,” said Belinda Earl, chief Group with the aim of draw- takedown for Slate Magazine. Esquire’s Stefano Tonchi. exist now,” said Niro, adding that Il executive of Debenhams. ing out a rival bid. While Marzorati’s appointment is In exchange for the right to put Daily will have its own publisher and The chain will open a new — Samantha Conti perhaps an undramatic end to a race its logo on them, New York is sales people as well. — Greg Lindsay

VP - Nat’l. Sales Director Fast-growing L.A. based fashion ASSOCIATE DESIGNER/ products firm seeks leader to DESIGNER manage large national field sales High end women’s clothing company seeks fashion lover with a flair for the staff. Min. 10 years senior level contemporary and designer market. Great opportunity for a creative, sales management exp., manag- enthusiastic self-starter who knows how to plan ahead and keep the ing large in-house field sales design room running smoothly. Nice work atmosphere. West Coast Regional Sales Manager team. E-mail resume to: Minimum 5 years experience. Join the sales team at John Hardy one of the most refined [email protected] Please fax resume to: quality jewelry and luxury giftware companies in the world. We are seeking a California based N/W Regional Sales 323-734-2097 or Manager with experience and relationships with independent retailers and specialty stores in jewelry/ giftware/luxury email to [email protected] goods industries. The successful candidate will have a min. of 3 years experience in business development, an understand- ing of retail math/analysis, excellent computer skills, and a passion/history for developing strong customer relationships. Please send resume in strictest confidence to: Reflect - True Custom Beauty Email: hr@john Hardy.com, www.reflect.com then fax as backup to: 908-236-7465 TOP DOLLAR Marketing Manager ANONAME JEANS FOR RETURNS,IR’S Retail Designer/Visual Director In-house SALES full-time. OR CLOSEOUTS Marketing Manager -Responsible for design and execution of Skills: aggressive, strong comm WALT ADAMS INC all marketing mix elements including marketing strategy, SCOTT-THALER ASSOCIATES & follow-up. Base sal. + comm. T: 800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 advertising, promotions, sampling, pricing/sizing and commu- NATIONWIDE EXECUTIVE RECRUITERS Email resume w/ sal reqs: [email protected] nication. Ideal candidate will have 4-6 years experience in Specializing in the fashion industry for over 23 years! [email protected] prestige beauty industry. Apparel•Retail•Accessories•Footwear Retail Designer/Visual Director - Design retail environments Don’t just SETTLE for a job, SALES PROFESSIONAL including layout, signage, print collateral and displays. Ideal when you can have a CAREER! Seeking a highly motivated aggres- candidate will create concepts and execute using technical sive sales consultant with strong design skills and have 5 years experience. Visit our website for exciting career opportunities!! customer service for eveningwear www.scott-thaler.com and bridal salon in Beverly Hills. Positions are located in San Francisco, CA. Tel: 800-968-1562•Fax: 213-312-9324 Fax resume and salary history: Send resumes to: [email protected] or [F] 415-369-4801 Email: [email protected] 310-550-3394 Tracy WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 WWD 17

*ALL Off-Price* Merchandise Assistants Velour-Rib-Lycra-Jersey Brooks Brothers is looking for seasoned Three by Three 201-861-0033 Merchandise Assistants who will support a Merchandise Manager in Velour-Fleece developing and executing category French Terry Lycra+reg assortments which meet the needs of Drake Fabrics the customer and achieve gross margin 718-389-8902 plan. Qualified candidates must possess 2-3 years prior experience in an apparel buying or product development office for a department or specialty store. Sub- mit resume and salary requirements to: Brooks Brothers Attn.: Recruiter, Human Resources Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. 346 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10017 No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Fax 212.885.6870 Call CLOTHES-OUT: Email:[email protected] (937) 898-2975 EOE

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Please send resume with Men’s - Ladies’ - Kids’ Sportswear RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH tive, computer, and oral/written Established & growing dress company Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists communication skills; specialty store salary history and requirement to: 1407 BROADWAY Production - both Domestic & Overseas needs a creative person to design with [email protected] SHOWROOMS/OFFICES GOOD PRICE / ON-TIME DELIVERY / Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 experience would be a plus. excitement, originality & a flair for TREBOR MGMT EXCELLENT QUALITY Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 newness! Contact Dick Rose @: Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Call Bobby for more info: 212-966-1169 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Weare an equal opportunity employer Tel: (212) 944-0910, Fax: (212) 944-0286 or Fax: 212-925-0016 Fax: 609-448-8248 offering a competitive salary and a or Cell: (516) 510-7331 EXPORT/IMPORT MGR $70-85K 226 W. 37th www.raskinexecsearch.com comprehensive benefits package. N.J. Track, Allocate, Trimming & Garment. ATTN. OFFSHORE MAKERS Please send your resume to: [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 5600 SqFt Source Asia’s latest knit & woven fabrics GREAT LIGHT * FULL FLOORS for your apparel prod’n in China/Far [email protected] DESIGNER IDEAL FOR SHWRM/OFC/DESIGN East from leading Hong Kong based RESUMES or fax: 201-863-3276. EOE Junior import Sweater Company seeks FASHION CORE BERNSTEIN RE converter. Please send Inquiries to: FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS energetic self starter with strong FASHION FACULTY Richard Price 212-594-1414x265 [email protected]/.hk Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates CLERICAL background in all aspects of sweater Private college seeks faculty for GILBERT CAREER RESUMES design. Responsibilities include fashion program. Ph.D. degree Must know Excel-Word-Quickbooks, assisting in all phases of line preferred, Master’s degree required, 488 7th Avenue MIAMI 275 Madison Ave NYC 10016 have common sense & willingness to (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa development; specing, graphing, along with significant industry experience. Live/Work Sourcing Specialist; Big Connections in pitch in. Fax resume to: [212] 244-4397 sketching, cad work, line sheets. China for Ladies’, Men’s & Children’s fashionresumes.com Knowledge of textiles, product develop- 1 BR SHOWROOM STARTING at $1525. Please fax resume to Sue/Kim ment, buying, visual merchandising, Hi Ceils, Wd Flrs, Immed Occup. Outerwear and Leather. fashioncareercenter.com Call Richard G. at: 305-302-5134 COOLWEAR @ 212-221-7017 merchandise planning and control. 212-629-8694 M-F 10am- 6pm. No Fee. RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Head designer cut & sew: Rapidly Send resume to: Fashion Search, W 39th St 2-20,000Ft Great $ Updating/Phone Interviews growing Jr. Sportswear Co. looking for Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road High Ceilings - Great Light PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. experienced Jr. designer for domestic Designer To $65K West Paterson, NJ 07424. 2000 + 4000 Ft Pre Builts PATTERN/SAMPLES 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 &import business. All resumes will be Missy/Jrs Sleepwr Photoshop/Illustrator Email: ga@BerkeleyCollege Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 held in confidence. Fax 212-768-8264, Joy *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 or Fax: 973-278-0080 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com work. Custom-made Bridalwr 212-629-4808 www.resumesforfashion.com Att: Sara Smith. [email protected] Equal Opportunity Employment 18 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003

Production Technical Designers Chaps Ralph Lauren, a division of Warnaco Inc. Chaps Ralph Lauren has immediate openings on our produc- tion team for both Technical Designers and Technical Design Assistants with proven track records of success working on a knits/wovens men’s line. The successful candidates should possess a 4 yr. degree in Fashion (Design/Patternmaking preferred), strong basic computer skills (e.g. Microsoft Excel, MS Word, etc…), an ability to multi-task, along with strong math skills and excellent written and verbal communication skills. Qualified Technical Designers should possess 3 - 6 years knit & woven technical design experience and be able to initiate & follow through on PDM tech packs from design through production, conduct live and form fittings, communi- cate well in written form as well as through technical sketch, spec garments and perform other duties as required. Prior experience working with Gerber PDM, Micrografx Designer or other transferable applications is also required. Qualified Technical Design Assistants should possess 1 - 2 years knit and woven technical design experience. The Technical Design Assistant will be responsible for the tracking of samples, garment specs and follow through on various departmental procedures. Prior experience with Gerber PDM a plus. Please fax resume along with salary requirements to (212) 287-8752 or e-mail as an MS Word attachment to [email protected]

Quality Assurance Technical Designer Domestic & Import sweater manufac- Knit/Woven Apparel turer seeks detail-oriented person for Apparel Design/Marketing and Manu- production quality control. Must have facturing firm seeks a Technical De- sweater background, excellent commu- signer with solid knit and woven expe- nication skills, ability to work in a fast rience in all Men’s categories. Motivat- paced environment plus follow spec ed and detail oriented team player. and construction requirements. Strong knowledge and understanding Fax resume and salary requirements of garment construction, fit and grad- to: 718-366-5232. ing from development through produc- tion. Able to run fittings independent- ly. Knowledge of patternmaking a RECEPTIONIST plus. Strong computer skills and famili- arity with industry Technical Soft- Fast paced showroom needs a hard ware. Knowledge of Illustrator and/or QUALITY CONTROL DIRECTOR working, self motivated individual photoshop. Close interaction with de- looking for an opportunity for growth. You must possess excellent phone sign, sales and merchandising on a dai- ly basis. Extensive communication Amerex Group a leading outerwear company is looking for a Quality Con- manners, data processing skills and be Merchandising Production Associate able to operate in a quick moving with overseas offices. Growth potential trol Director for our worldwide QC operations. Ideal candidate would devel- Brooks Brothers is looking for seasoned environment. for right individual. Coordinator Production Associates who will support a Please fax all resumes to op and implement global QC standards and practices, reduce quality relat- Please fax resume to (212) 382-1469 or Lisa Jimenez at 212-764-4342 Merchandiser seeks experienced Product Manager in managing women’s email: [email protected] ed costs, work with factory management along with other duties. The can- individual to act as liaison between product categories while meeting time didate is required to have experience in outerwear, travel 50% globally, design, production and sales. Must and action, quality and pricing strat- have product knowledge. Must be egies. Qualified candidates must possess strong technical knowledge, ability to control and direct teams of QC pro- detail oriented and have good commu- RECEPTIONIST 5years prior experience in a luxury Great entry level position with ladies’ fessionals working in multiple locations and countries. Please send your nication and computer skills. production and sourcing environment resume along with salary expectations to [email protected] Fax resume to 212-239-2766. with in-depth knowledge of fabrics and import co in Midtown for individual garment construction. Submit resume who will work closely w/ sales & wants and salary requirements to: to grow. Fax Resume 212-302-8266. TECHNICAL WOVEN We offer excellent compensation along with benefits such as Brooks Brothers SPECIALIST MERCHANDISING Attn.: Recruiter, Human Resources RECEPT/SHOWROOM ASSISTANT Moderate sportswear manufacturer medical, dental and 401K. Growing Sterling Silver Jewelry Co. 346 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10017 Greet buyers, support sales & answer seeks experienced technical designer based in NJ are seeking people with a Fax 212.885.6870 phones. Friendly attitude & professional to join our production team. Candidate Merchandising & Costing background. Email:[email protected] presence. Size 6/8 pref for occasional must have full knowledge of garment Candidates must be organized, computer EOE modeling. Please fax [212] 704-0232 construction and patternmaking. literate and have strong mathematical Excellent written communication and GROMWELL GROUP skills. We offer a competitive salary PRODUCTION JOBS! technical drawing capability is a FABRIC CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: and benefits package. Fax or E-mail Retail Sales/Merchandiser MUST in order to give clear guidelines *EXEC ASSISTANT...... $50-80K resume with salary requirements to: OLEG CASSINI We are seeking a highly motivated, and directives to factories. Fax resume COORDINATOR (Assist President of Major Company) 201-964-9771 / [email protected] detail oriented sales associate with a to D. Tom (212) 730-2531. Fast paced sportswear co. seeking highly keen eye for visual merchandising to Danskin, Inc., well est. ac- *DESIGNER...... $80K detail oriented individuals: tive apparel co., has an (Mens Sportswear) join our Madison Avenue boutique. *TECHNICAL DESIGNERS.....$50-80K PRODUCTION MANAGER Please fax resume & salary history. immediate opening for a (Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s) PATTERNMAKER Minimum 5 years experience Fax: (212) 570-0188 seasoned fabric professio- *JEWELRY DESIGNER...... $95K PRODUCTION COORDINATOR nal to coordinate fabric test- *ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE...... $65-100K HAUTE COUTURE SALES ASSISTANT TRAFFIC COORDINATOR *SALES MANAGER...... $100K Couture Designer seeks a highly skil- Minimum 3 years experience Major women’s sweater co seeks ing, lab dip approvals, & to / Major apparel company seeks individual (Accessories) led HAUTE COUTURE Patternmaker Both positions act as liaison with overseas to work with Account Executive on individual with min. 3 years experi- serve as a liaison b/w mills *DESIGN...... $60-100K Draper w/10+ yrs experience in gowns (Asian) factories/offices. Will oversee ence. Responsibilities include schedul- and jackets. Fax resume: 212-768-4609. supporting accounts. Must have & product development. 5 (Children, Infant, Toddler) all aspects of production and product experience with major department ing & monitoring overseas shipments yrs exp. in fabric technology *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-100K development, including domestic. stores. Excellent computer skills are and processing documents to ensure (Childrenswear,Womens, Mens) Must have good knowledge in women’s/ necessary. timely delivery. Opening L/C. &aneye for color & *DESIGNER/DENIM EXP...... $ to 125K men’s clothing. Fluent in Chinese a plus. Fax resume to: 212-239-2766 Knowledge of excel, word and AS400 processing testing is a must. (Men’s Children’s, and Juniors) PATTERN MAKER Fax resume to HR at 212-868-1112 required. Please fax resume: *PRODUCTION COORDINATOR...... $50-65K Ladies dress designer/importer on 7th indicating position of interest. 212-512-0679 Competitive compensation (Strong Woven exp) Ave seeks a detail-oriented individual SALES ASSISTANT & benefits package. *RETAIL SALES COORDINATOR..$ up to 60K who is able to work directly with Ori- Must have minimum 1 year experience (Must have car. Northeast Territory) ent vendors independently. At least Production Manager Fax/E-mail resume & salary Fast paced girls/ladies mass market as a Sales Assistant. Working with Dept. Temp and Freelance positions also available. 8yrs. exp needed with specialty in stores a plus. Must have computer skills WOMEN’S APPAREL MFR & IMPORTER history to 212-930-9103 & Please call 212-972-9300 or e-mail: eveningwear design. Pattern making importer seeks Production manager with 10+ years of mass market volume including Word & Excel [AS400 would located in Carlstadt, NJ. We offer a [email protected] [email protected] and clear fit comments are a must. Pre- be great!] & have great communicational great working environment and fer computer literacy, including Excel. importing experience from far east in EOE/M/F/V knits and sweaters. Knowledge and &organizational skills. This position is benefits. Resume fax to 212-695-1761 or Email to based in NYC. Fax resume:[310] 605-1751 JOBS JOBS JOBS [email protected] experience in fabrics/yarns, knitting, PATTERNMAKER *Artists - Boy - Girl - Jr - Missy garment construction, printing, Seeks motivated, highly skilled first to *Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl import production lead times and *Import L/C Coordinator SAMPLEMAKER production patternmaker to join our production schedules etc. Experience team. Needs min. 10 years experience *Pc Gds/ Production Coord - Imports PATTERNMAKER in dealing with Wal-mart and CTL Fine Tailoring and evening. GRAPHIC DESIGNER *Production: Mgrs - Coords - Assists Call: 212-431-4963 in patterning and Gerber system Large apparel company seeks required. Must be able to lead, direct knowledge a plus. needed by established childrenswear *Production Coords Bilingual Chinese patternmaker with experience in sizes and motivate a staff to insure timely co., where your creativity can shine. *Production Sourcing Director 2-6x. Responsibilities include making delivery/execution. Some overseas trav- TECHNICAL DESIGNER Must be creative & have exp designing *Product Mgr Assist (bet design & mdse) patterns from sketches or garments, el required and travel experience a SAMPLEMAKER Seeks Tech. Designer who has min 5- prints & graphics for girls 4-16 appa- *Technical Designers & Assistants managing work flow and conducting must. Fax resume to 212-768-3167 MUST have a minimum 6 years 10 yrs exp. to develop graded specs, re- rel. Proficiency in Illustrator & *Retail Planner/Analyst--100k+ fittings. Fax resume to 212-239-2766. Attn:Eric or e-mail [email protected] experience. Couture/High End Women’s view & comment on fit sample and Photoshop req. Great atmosphere Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) w/exc. benefits. Fax resume w/salary Eveningwear sewing experience. Must communicate with overseas factories. req: 212-239-1073 Attn: Design Director PRODUCTION also be able to do hand bead work. You will be responsible for fit process Major apparel company is looking for Call to schedule interview & test through production. Previous experi- three designers for three different PATTERNMAKER MANAGER 212-575-1173 ence with computer skills, including positions. Miami, FL based Ladies’ Sportswear & Full-package manufacturer of better Excel, a must. Candidate should be Dress Mfr. seeks an exp’d. production well organized and detail oriented. * Athletic Division - Sizes 7-16 girls sportswear seeks individual to manage GRAPHIC/TEXTILE patternmaker. Fax or E-mail resume to: prestigious brand account. Should Fax resume: 201-440-8036 and 8-20 boys 305-888-8327 / [email protected] Spec Writer ARTIST * Girls Division- sizes 4-16 have 5 to 7 years experience with Miami based Women’s Sportswear Co. * Infant/Toddler girls and boys costing, time and action, sample seeks individual w/technical exp. & ability Major Apparel manufacturer is seek- development and fabric/trim purchas- to fit, analyze & develop specs. Knowledge ing a creative and self motivated Designers must have 3-5 years ing. The right individual will be a of garment construction a must. Basic graphic/textile artist for our growing experience. Must also be proficient in hands-on manager with strong follow- pattern knowledge a +. Strong commun- women’s/junior’s division. Individual Photoshop and Illustrator. Great up. Natural communication skills a ication/PC skills req’d. Fax/E-mail resume: opportunity. must have substantial Illustrator and must. Email resume and salary require- 305-888-8327 / [email protected] Photoshop skills, strong color sense Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Pre Production Fabric Technician ments to: [email protected] and ability to create screen graphics & repeat prints in multiple colorways. Victoria’s Secret Production Please fax resume to: 212-971-2277 Marketing VP $100-175K Limited Brands is looking for a Pre SWEATER SPEC TECH $45-55K Montreal based postion. Retail /wholesale exp. Production Fabric Technician for Western [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Allen *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Hemisphere, Europe and Asia for our [email protected] Victoria’s Secret Production office in Manhattan. Qualified candidates will have TAYLOR HODSON INC. 3-5 years of experience in fabric develop- Public Relations Assistant FASHION FREELANCERS ment, print development, technical specifi- Assistant with excellent interpersonal Seeking Designers, Technical Designers, Merchandiser cations, laboratory testing, and a thorough skills needed in public relations depart- Production, Sketchers, Spec Techs, Bkgrd w/ Junior + Missy Activewear. understanding of the fabric production ment. Responsible for communicating Patternmakers, Cutters for fabulous Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 process. Responsibilities include fabric with press on a day-to-day basis, order- freelance & permanent fashion oppor- research, development, production quality ing and sending out pr samples, main- tunities. Contact our Fashion Division, assurance and daily interaction with taining events calendar, press lists, pr overseas mills and production offices library, and assisting with special Fax Emily Koch @ [212] 924-1503 or MERCHANDISER $$$$$ worldwide. To be considered for this posi- events. Individual must have excellent E-mail: [email protected] Hot Jr. sportswear co seeks merchandiser tion and to view all career opportunities at communication and time management w/trendy flair. Pref out of Jr. Mkt. Immed Hire Limited Brands, please visit our skills. Must be polished, professional, Technical Designer $50-100K. Current Fax Resume Attn Carla 201-894-1186 career web site and apply online at: and polite. Please email resume to: experience in specing of women’s or e-mail [email protected] http://www.careers.limitedbrands.com. [email protected] woven shirts required. 1411 Broadway. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS We are an Equal Opportunity Employer or fax: 212-206-3985 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2003 19

offer on Sept. 10, P&G will own both companies, realized mainly 98.1 percent of Wella voting from lower manufacturing costs, L’Oréal On Pace for Solid Sales Growth shares and 79.2 percent of total lower media buys and a consoli- company shares. The deal is dation of back-office and admin- PARIS — L’ Oréal envisions a 1.13 billion euros. news is there has been a slight P&G’s largest acquisition, with es- istrative businesses, including beautiful ending for 2003. As reported, L’Oréal’s first- return to joie de vivre [there],” timates on the price tag, includ- accounting. Wella, which will The firm expects to reach its half sales fell 3.2 percent, to he said. Owen-Jones also lauded ing debt, approaching $7 billion. continue to be a legally inde- objective of registering a 7 to 9 $7.72 billion, or 7.14 billion the well-received introductions The deal also has been re- pendent and publicly listed stock percent sales increase on a con- euros. On a like-for-like basis, of Garnier’s Fructis shampoo on plete with drama. Since P&G an- corporation, remains operating stant basis for the year, con- they rose 7.1 percent. the continent. nounced its proposal to buy from its Darmstadt offices. P&G’s firmed Lindsay Owen-Jones, “Obviously, [the results] are ● Second-half product launch- Wella on March 19, the consumer offices in Germany will remain, L’Oréal’s chairman and chief ex- very encouraging from my view- es. Numerous L’Oréal brands, products company has hurdled too. ecutive officer, at a meeting held point,” Owen-Jones said, adding such as Lancôme and Cacharel, disagreements on the purchase — Andrea M.G. Nagel for analysts and journalists they’re “in line with expecta- are gearing up to introduce prod- price of the 123-year-old Wella, Tuesday. He added the gain will tions.” However, he repeated fre- ucts in the third and fourth quar- tackled motions filed by Wella probably be “toward the lower quently throughout the meeting ters of 2003. These are expected shareholders aiming to block the Unilever Sells Brut Brand end of that spread.” that such numbers cannot be di- to help spur yearend sales. purchase and contended with ri- NEW YORK — Unilever has The company also is bullish rectly extrapolative for the year — Jennifer Weil vals such as Henkel, which pur- agreed to sell the Brut brand of about achieving double-digit as a whole. chased 6.9 percent of Wella be- male personal care products to earnings growth. Among other subjects he dis- fore March 19 in an attempt to Helen of Troy Ltd. for $55 mil- L’Oréal’s net operational profit cussed were: spurn off suitors. P&G also never lion in cash. after minority interests rose 14.9 ● L’ Oréal’s stake in Sanofi- BEAUTY BEAT was able to acquire the neces- The deal, which includes percent in the period to $982.2 Synthelabo. The French beauty sary 95 percent-plus of total com- Brut’s fragrance, antiperspirant million at current exchange rates, giant, which holds a stake of less pany shares to run Wella as a pri- and deodorant products in the or 908.4 million euros, versus than 20 percent in the pharma- vate company. Americas, is expected to be $854.9 million, or 790.6 million ceutical concern, and Total, P&G Closes Wella Deal As a result of the closing, four completed in the fourth quarter euros, in the same half last year. which owns about 24 percent, NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble shareholders on Wella’s supervi- of calendar 2003, and is subject Operating profits for the first can liquidate their shareholder has closed on the stock purchase sory board have resigned. They to regulatory approvals. half of 2003 rose 2 percent to pact in December 2004. “At the agreement with the family share- are: Thomas Olbricht, chairman The brand had combined $1.12 billion, or 1.04 billion end of 2004, there might no holders of Wella AG, officially be- of the supervisory board; Ulrike sales of $45 million in 2002, and euros, year on year. Adjusted op- longer be a shareholder pact, coming the new majority share- Crespo; Sylvia Ströher, and Til- Helen of Troy expects it to gener- erating profits — including ex- but we might still be sharehold- holder of the Darmstadt, Ger- man Pohl. ate sales of roughly $40 million change gains and losses — were ers,” said Owen-Jones. many-based hair care company. Synergy potential of about over the next 12 months. up 9 percent to $1.22 billion, or ● North America. “The good Following closing on a tender $325.6 million is expected for — Jennifer Weitzman

Dynamic Sales Pro Soho Compagnie Established Junior Sweater/Sportswear Co. seeks energetic Salesperson w/ Account Executive existing contacts in chain, specialty & Market’s most exciting fashion driven discount mass markets. If you’re looking missy and plus size casual sportswear for an exciting opportunity, we want to co seeks an aggressive and motivated talk to you. $$$ potential excellent for the salesperson. Only those w/ established right person. Fax: 718-782-9386 account list need apply. Pls fax or email your resume to: 212-575-6115 / [email protected] Import Coordinator Women’s apparel mfr. in Chicago. Must have min. 3 yrs exp. & knowl. w/FarEast import document. incl. L/C’s, clearing shipments through US customs; incl. follow through to ware- house. Able to multi task in fast paced environment, excel. comm. skills & ability to coord. w/ brokers. Sal. open. SR. SALES EXECUTIVE Qualified candidates fax resume to: (Intimate Apparel Industry) HR Dept. @ 312.648.4309 Donna L’Oren Group (New York corporate office), one of the fashion industry’s most prestigious and Missy & Special Size innovative organizations, seeking Sr. Young missy moderate company seeks Sales Exec with current experience in aggressive & exp’d salesperson to join the intimate apparel indusrty, selling our team. Must have strong connec- to Major Dept./Chains. We offer tions in missy & special size divisions. Attractive Salary Pkg. and Growth Please fax 212-575-5519 Opportunity. For more info visit our website: www.donnaloren.com Please forward resume & salary to our NY office. SALES E-mail: [email protected] Licensed Athletic apparel company Fax: 212-214-0383 seeks individual experienced in sales. Exposure to all tiers of retailers. Must Trade Show Sales have successful track record in selling Energetic, experienced individuals and proven ability to build new needed for freelance sales for relationships. Must also have market Coterie Show Sept 30 - Oct 2. awareness. Must have fashion trade show sales JONES NEW YORK INTIMATES Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 experience. Please call 212-398-3206. Licensed by Madison Intimate Brands SALES PRO TRADE SHOW SALES SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Leading woven textile company is Sterling Silver Jewelry Co. is looking for RETAIL ANALYST searching for that special high level Trade Show Salespeople. Must be willing person who is knowledgeable, has a to travel. Duties include setup and break- strong following in the womens wear down of shows as well as customer service. With continued growth - leading, established Intimate Apparel market and a proven track record. Great Heavy customer contact required.Fax Co. seeks motivated Sales Executive & Retail Analyst with the opportunity! Co. paid medical benefits. or E-mail resume/salary requirements: following responsibilities: manage and grow existing department Fax resume: 212-397-2202 201-964-9771 / [email protected] store account base, including financial, and manage the launch 1350 Avenue of the Americas of a new division. Must have great communication/presentation ability, combined with strong retail math capabilities. Excellent Accessory Showroom Clothing Specialist computer (Excel spreadsheets, Word, Email) skills a must. Growth opportunity for aggressive sales- Energetic Salesperson needed for a high Senior Account Minimum 5 years experience selling department stores, or in person preferably with established con- profile multi-line showroom. Lines car- tacts in budget/moderate jewelry and ried are contemporary as well as young Executive buying office. Excellent salary & benefits. For consideration, jr/missy/large size specialty chain stores. designer price points. Applicant must for New York based design house. please email resume with Subject Header: Acct Exec or Retail Excellent follow up skills & computer liter- have at least 3 years of experience in Experience in European Designer or Analyst, Your Name to: [email protected] acy req’d. Benefits. Fax to: 914-934-7553 clothing market. Please E-mail resume to Gold Range market and dept store Ken at: [email protected] experience a must. Strong fashion Aggressive Sales Rep AGGRESSIVE SALES PRO sense, self-motivated and impeccable Seeking a highly motivated and aggres- Est’d Import Co. seeking exp’d, Sales communication skills. Fax resume sive sales representative with experi- Exec to sell popular priced woven/knit with salary req to SALES: 212.302.7482 ence in the medical uniform industry Jr/Missy/Plus Sizes sports/active wear COOLWEAR (nurses uniform, etc.) with established from our showroom. Must hv est’d con- Rapidly growing junior sportswear customer base. All territories open! tacts w/ major chains & spclty stores. company looking to expand sales SERVICE REP FOR WASH HOUSE Please e-mail resume to Merchandising skills A+. Competitive force. Sweater, cut-n- sew, bottoms and LA based denim jeans wash house [email protected] Sal/Comm+ benefits. Fax resume: dresses. Seeking energetic, ambitious, seeks experienced Sales Rep to book 212-840-2796. Email: [email protected] aggressive sales team. All candidates business nationwide. Good Pay. Independent Sales Reps will be held in complete confidence. Fax resume to [323] 265-3636 Established sweater co. seeks experi- Fax # 212-768-8264 - Attn: Sara enced sales reps for west and mid-west BUBBLEGUM USA territories. Must have good following Showroom with specialty stores. Sales Executive Fax resume to: 914-741-0817 Co seeks sales exec to sell junior knit Direct Sales Co Coordinator/Sales tops line. Must have strong dept and Established and exclusive women’s De- Leading Children’ s wear mfg. seeks or- specialty store following and current signer sptswear co. seeking professio- ganized and energetic showroom SALES REPS contact list. Experience in tops a must. nal regional sales mgr. to recruit sales coord./sales person for tod/4-6x/4-7 and Est’d jr sportswr co seeks talented sales Only the best need apply. associates in the NY tri-state area. license sales w/ min. 2 years exp. pros in NY w/ strong contacts w/ better Call Ken @ 323-233-9005 x 12 Comm. based with incentives. Fax re- Fax resume to 212-967-8108 specialty & major dept stores. Min 5 yrs Or Fax resume to: 323-233-9006 sume to: 212-869-0511 att. Bernadette exp. Fax resume & acct list: 323.846.0099 1400 BROADWAY, 16TH FLOOR 212.695.6211