THINKING SHRINKING MAN CROWD SIMON BAKER OF COMP SALES RISE BUT “THE MENTALIST” EVEN FEWER RETAILERS FRONTS THE NEW REPORT. PAGE 12 SCENT. PAGE 6

WWDFRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

Chop to It Beauty looks in the fall women’s ready-to-wear runway shows in , which ended Wednesday, were wide-ranging. Some houses placed an accent on models’ eyebrows or lips, while, for others, hair came in multitextured styles. For more, see pages 8 and 9. GUIDO PALAU HAIRSTYLIST: SIMMONDS;

PHOTO BY DELPHINE ACHARD LLOYD MAKEUP ARTIST: Sycamore’s Torrid Wish SEEKING A SETTLEMENT business, which targets younger plus- By EVAN CLARK size consumers with trendy . “The plus-size female consumer, Macy’s Trial Parties SYCAMORE PARTNERS has tapped the younger set is begging for someone into two — maybe three — hot topics to give them a lifestyle destination to with its latest deal. shop,” said Thomas Filandro, analyst The private equity fi rm’s $600 mil- at Susquehanna Financial Group, not- Head to Mediation lion agreement to take Hot Topic Inc. ing the brand fi lls that niche and is just private, which was unveiled Thursday, starting to gain traction. man Martha Stewart during the four- underscored both the untapped poten- “You’ve got white space growth with By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD hour break. The two spoke for the fi rst tial of the plus-size market and the op- Torrid,” Filandro said. “ Yo u get an op- time since their phone call on Dec. portunities seen in revamping the mall- portunity to build Torrid potentially NEW YORK — Mediation is the buzzword. 6, 2011, when Stewart told Lundgren based specialty store model. outside the U.S. You’ve got the Hot Following a four-hour recess that she had inked a deal with rival Analysts said it is not the 618-door Topic business established well with Thursday in which New York Supreme Penney’s to sell Stewart-branded and Goth-inspired Hot Topic chain that’s the its edgy positioning but growing Court Judge Jeffrey Oing pressed unbranded home goods in its stores — prize of the deal, but the 190-door Torrid SEE PAGE 12 Macy’s Inc., Martha Stewart Living and Lundgren infamously hung up on Omnimedia Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. her. That deal, Macy’s contends, is in Inc. to reach a settlement in the three- violation of its 2006 contract with MSLO week contract dispute trial, the judge to exclusively sell certain Martha called for a period of mediation in the Stewart-branded goods. highly publicized case. The trial will “I want to thank Mr. Lundgren for continue on April 8 should the parties accommodating the court with a call. be unable to come to a settlement. I appreciate that very much so in this “It’s reached a critical point in this very intense dispute that we’ve had trial where I believe it’s time for the here,” Oing said. “Also Ms. Stewart for business people to take a step back and taking the call, I think that was very think about perhaps maybe they can good for her, too. Suffi ce it to say we’re take some common ground,” Oing said. still here.” “It is, in my mind, necessary.” A spokeswoman from MSLO said Oing had asked Macy’s chairman, the conversation between Stewart and president and chief executive offi cer Lundgren was “productive,” adding Terry J. Lundgren to call MSLO chair- SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD fridaY, MarCH 8, 2013 WWD.COM Carrefour Profit Sees Sharp Increase in 2012 period, the retailer was entering distribution costs linked to expan- By Joelle DiDerich into the execution phase of its sion and wage inflation in china,” the Briefing Box three-year turnaround plan. carrefour noted. PAriS — carrefour’s streamlin- “our results in 2012 were not recurring operating income in Today’s WWd ing has started to pay off. sparkling — they were good com- fell 2.6 percent to 2.14 billion The world’s second-largest pared with what we were expect- euros, or $2.75 billion, beating retailer behind Wal-Mart Stores ing,” he said at a news confer- the median market consensus, inc. said net profits more than ence. “We have rebuilt reserves which stood at about 2.07 billion Paris Fashion tripled in 2012 as it disposed of to reinvest. We must imperatively euros, or $2.66 billion. Week street underperforming assets to focus do so.” The retailer said it would in- style. For more, on turning around its largest carrefour posted sales of 76.8 vest between 2.2 billion euros see WWD.com market, France, and expanding billion euros, or $98.74 billion, in and 2.3 billion euros, or $2.9 bil- in latin America and Asia. 2012, an increase of 0.9 percent lion and $3 billion at current Shares in carrefour closed up in reported terms and 1.6 percent exchange, in 2013, up from 1.55 2.9 percent at 22 euros, or $28.67, at constant exchange rates. billion euros, or $2 billion, the on the Paris Stock exchange on Turnover in France rose previous year. it will direct half

Thursday after it reported that 0.5 percent, even as the rest of toward remodeling stores and the i net income rose to 1.23 billion europe posted a 3.1 percent de- other half toward expanding in K euros, or $1.59 billion, from 371 cline, mainly due to the impact of emerging markets, Plassat said. million euros, or $516 million, in continued austerity measures in “retailers who do not make 2011. All dollar rates are calcu- and Spain. long-term investments are lated at average exchange rates Sales in latin America were up doomed,” he remarked. “We must Dabrows Kuba for the period to which they refer. 4.6 percent, thanks to solid like-for- imperatively rekindle expansion Asset disposals contributed 1.1 like sales in Argentina and Brazil, in a more structured way.” Photo by billion euros, or $1.44 billion, to where carrefour has successfully Plassat said carrefour needed the total after carrefour closed its turned around its business. to remodel 150 of its 220 hyper- Judge Jeffrey Oing on Thursday called for a period of mediation stores in Singapore and sold its revenues in china rose 10.3 markets in France. in the highly publicized case involving Macy’s, J.C. Penney’s and operations in Greece, colombia, percent, although stripping out The executive said the company Martha Stewart. PAGE 1 Malaysia and indonesia. the impact of volatile currencies, would continue its drive to decen- chief executive officer Georges the increase was only 0.5 percent. tralize decision making in order to Sycamore Partners agreed to buy Hot Topic Inc. for $600 Plassat, who took over last May, “continued productivity gains make regional and country store PAGE 1 said that after an initial analysis did not fully offset the increase in managers more accountable. million, gaining access to the Torrid plus-size business.

Michael Kors will be feted with the 2013 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion on Wednesday, Sept. 4. PAGE 4 Adidas Posts $345.1M Loss, Sales Rise emerging markets, up 13 percent, 16 percent to between 4.25 and Simon Baker, star of “The Mentalist,” will be the face of By PAulinA SzMyDke where “the middle market con- 4.40 euros in 2013. Givenchy’s men’s fragrance, Gentlemen Only, which launches in sumer is growing at a rapid pace,” The group cited its “high ex- the U.S. in April. PAGE 6 ShAreS in ADiDAS Group chief executive officer herbert posure” to fast-growing emerging closed up 4.7 percent at 76.38 hainer said. markets as well as further ex- Bulgari is throwing the raw Australian masculinity of Eric Bana euros on the Frankfurt Stock north America and Western pansion of retail as strong sales behind the launch of a new fragrance for men, Bulgari Man exchange as an upbeat sales europe struggled, reporting net growth factors. new product Extreme. PAGE 6 forecast overshadowed a swing sale losses of 3.4 percent and 2.2 launches and innovations in all to losses in the fourth quarter. percent, respectively. major units are also envisaged Kate Moss, Karl Lagerfeld and Riccardo Tisci were among the The net loss totaled 273 million hainer said the company throughout 2013, which will “more revelers at Paris’ Shangri-La Hotel to celebrate the second issue of euros, or $354.1 million, which would open more shops-in-shop than offset the nonrecurrence of Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book. PAGE 10 Adidas attributed to goodwill im- in the u.S. for a stronger pres- sales related to the ueFA euro pairment of 265 million euros, or ence and to bolster sales. 2012 and the london 2012 olympic Sources in Milan say Valextra is close to finalizing a deal to sell a The sporting goods firm, head- Games,” the group noted. $343.7 million, resulting mainly stake to private equity fund Neo Capital and that Marco Franchini from adjusted growth assumptions quartered in herzogenaurach, The group’s full-year net in- is in pole position to helm the luxury accessories firm.PAGE 11 for reebok in north America, , is forecasting sales to come fell 13.8 percent to 524 mil- latin America and Brazil espe- grow at a midsingle-digit rate in lion euros, or $673.7 million. The cially, as well as an increase in 2013 from 2012’s record of 14.98 contraction resulted primar- Time Warner investors were clearly pleased to hear the company country-specific discount rates billion euros, or $19.16 billion, ily from a 14 percent net sales planned to spin off all of its publishing division into a separately following the euro debt crisis. which is expected toward the decline by the group’s reebok listed company. PAGE 11 Sales in the three-month period second half of the year. brand, where “commercial ir- rose 4 percent to 3.37 billion euros, “We are very well positioned regularities” were discovered The 2013 retail calendar got off to an uninspiring start following a or $4.37 billion. Stripping out the to again achieve record sales in at its indian division last April. mass exodus of retailers from monthly reporting and tepid results impact of currency fluctuations, 2013,” hainer said. The brand was also battered by among those still participating in the ritual. PAGE 12 the increase stood at 1 percent. he added that the year ahead the loss of an American Football Dollar figures are converted would also see a “step change league contract and a players’ on WWD.CoM from euros at average exchange in the pace of operating margin dispute at the national hockey rates for the period in question. expansion,” which is expected to league, which resulted in a They Are WeAring: Photographer Kuba Dabrowski takes The fourth quarter was boost- approach 9 percent versus 8 per- short season. it to the street, capturing the best Paris Fashion Week ed by net sales gains in Greater cent in 2012. net sales were still up 11.7 per- looks. For more images, see WWD.com. china, which were up 19.4 per- earnings per share are ex- cent to a new record level of 14.98 cent, as well as in european pected to climb between 12 and billion euros, or $19.16 billion.

ClarifiCation Puig in Deal With Clarins for Prestige Distribution The 10 crosby shop on Amazon.com is a partnership with Derek lam to highlight the brand on Amazon, under which Amazon and nina ricci both in the u.S. age key accounts. Puig and clarins owns the inventory and runs the store. it is not a freestand- By Julie nAuGhTon and canada. in April 2012, after Fragrance Group will share a fra- ing monobrand store or new channel of business for Amazon. reporting a 19 percent leap in net grance-dedicated sales force. This was unclear in an article on page one, Thursday. PuiG hAS inkeD a deal with profits for its fragrance and fashion “Two of the fastest-growing fra- clarins Fragrance Group for the group to 155 million euros, Puig at- grance groups in north America distribution of the Spanish firm’s tributed the success to “a certain [joining] forces as this alliance al- To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is prestige fragrance portfolio in strategy that we chose to pursue a lows us to not only draw upon mu- [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. north America, effective July 1. few years ago, when we said that tual success and experiences in the COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Puig’s current north American we wanted to focus our activity in industry, but also ensure that to- VOLUME 205, NO. 48. FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two contract with coty ends June 30. building brands through fashion — gether we’re continuing to provide additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance The two firms have partnered for and that has to do with the brands the highest quality of fragrance for Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, the past six years, during which that we have in our portfolio — and our customers,” said Didier Maine Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, time Puig’s north American busi- then translating the image of those de Biran, executive vice president and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver ness more than doubled, accord- brands in the fragrance category, and general manager of Puig in Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North ing to Marc Puig, chairman and whether ours or from third parties north America. Added Jonathan Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . 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When news of the coty-Puig dis- u.S. and canada responsible successful experience with inter You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt solution came, Puig noted that “the for the Thierry Mugler, Azzaro, Parfums for the last two years, we of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request time has come for Puig to redefine David yurman and Swarovski believe in the model of sharing for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at a new approach to pursue growth fragrance brands. back-office costs and the oppor- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. 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4 WWD friday, march 8, 2013 WWD.COM down and talk hard about it.” what preceded this decision was Macy’s, Martha and JCP Enter Mediation revealing testimony from charles Koppelman, a former MSlo chairman {Continued from page one} spring. Judge oing had been mulling better “for the retail industry” if this was and ceo, who talked about his relation- that her company viewed “today’s actions over whether it should include wares handled by the companies involved. ships with both lundgren and Stewart. as a positive step forward” and it “wel- designed by Stewart but re-branded with he further explained that the case is even Koppelman thought the trial had comed a prompt and fair resolution.” the “JcP everyday” and “double-house” far from over. Macy’s is still putting on its gone on too long, when, unprompted, he while the three parties couldn’t come logo. while Macy’s, Penney’s and MSlo side of the case, and although the court blurted out that it was “never ending.” to a settlement Thursday, Penney’s law- are in mediation talks, the judge will has seen sometimes emotional, eye- Following his brief one-hour testi- yer said that, until april 8, his client have a month to think over that decision, opening and entertaining testimony from mony, lawyers from all sides were called would agree that it will “not place for but he will do so begrudgingly. lundgren, Stewart and Ron Johnson, into the judge’s chambers and told to sale or stock the shelves with any of the “I’ve been sitting on this case for almost Penney’s ceo, he said, “There’s still a lot return at 3:30 p.m. when they did, there product provided by MSlo in the exclu- three weeks. I’ve heard a great deal of tes- of testimony to hear and a lot of evidence seemed to be a palpable sense of relief in sive product categories [deemed by the timony,” oing said. “I think we are getting to consider.” the courtroom, as conversations veered Macy’s-MSlo contract]…branded or not.” to a point where we’re getting very close to oing also cautioned Macy’s from think- from the all-consuming case. waiting for That issue had been hanging over the where I believe is a moment we all don’t ing it’s “prevailing” on some of its points. oing to emerge from his chambers and court all week, as oing was preparing to want to get to. I’ve been thinking very hard It “may well be that” Macy’s is “pre- give the news of the mediation, lawyers listen to arguments Friday on whether to about this case. I believe that we live in a vailing on some proverbial battles but from Penney’s chatted about living in los extend Macy’s preliminary injunction to free market society…the best decisions are ultimately that is no guarantee that you angeles and the coyote problem there. include any products designed by MSlo made by the business people.” are winning the war in this case,” he told one Penney’s lawyer recounted that his for Penney’s. when the judge issued the oing said while he doesn’t want to counsel for Macy’s. small dog had been eaten by a coyote. injunction last summer, it effectively make a decision in the case, he “won’t with that, the judge instructed the at- “There are three things to fear in life stopped Penney’s from selling Martha have a hard time deciding this case” if he torneys to put in an application for me- — earthquakes, skin cancer and coyotes,” Stewart-branded goods in its stores this has to, but emphasized that it would be diation, adding “you folks have got to sit the lawyer said. Michael Kors to be Honored A Fresh Preview for Penney’s Pops Up er’s web site at the end of last month. Mimran By lISa locKwooD Michael Kors By Rachel BRown said the brand has racked up three times the volume Penney’s expected online so far and new YoRK — Michael Kors will — Joe Fresh and J.c. Penney “became the number-one brand immediately.” be feted with the 2013 couture co. Inc. are giving shoppers here a preview of Dougherty reasoned that the brand is attractive council award for artistry of how the brand will look inside the retailer’s to Penney’s customers because of its universal Fashion on Sept. 4. stores a week before it launches there with a appeal, repertoire of styles and inexpensive The honor, which will be pre- pop-up open from today to Sunday. price points. The majority of the merchandise sented by the couture council The pop-up is meant to generate buzz for at the pop-up is priced from $10 to $69. of The Museum at the Fashion Joe Fresh’s introduction into Penney’s and fa- “It is a very broad-based assortment and Institute of Technology, will be miliarize west coast consumers with a brand that is the beauty of it,” said Dougherty. “There awarded at a benefit luncheon that they may see down the line in permanent is something for everybody. It is a great way at the David h. Koch Theater in standalone form. The canadian brand, which to bring affordable style to people across the lincoln center here. The luncheon is sold in about 350 locations in its home coun- country. It’s modern, stylish product. It’s a good kicks off new York Fashion week. tr y, including 14 of its own stores, has only six combination of basics like a great T-shirt, and “I’m deeply honored to re- units in the U.S. concentrated in new York and fashion pieces like a great crochet short or a ceive this award from the couture new Jersey, but Joe Fresh founder Joe Mimran great dress.” council. They do such an amazing has plans to spread retail to . Joe Fresh is not depending on Penney’s job putting the spotlight on design, “we are on the doorstep of opening 683 [J.c. alone for expansion in the U.S. The brand has and I think that to be included in Penney] locations in america and the west another standalone store in new York in the the esteemed company that has coast is of particular importance to us. we just works and is looking into locating stores in los been awarded this honor in the felt it was important to expose the brand,” said angeles and San Francisco. “we are complete- past is very gratifying and very ex- Mimran. “Pop-ups are certainly not a new thing ly committed to growing our business in the citing,” said Kors. anymore, but they are still fun. It is a great way United States,” said Mimran. “our approach is

The designer believes that Falk to give a pop of excitement to the brand.” going to be much more urban because we be-

american sportswear has finally van housed in a glass-rimmed 4,000-square-foot lieve JcP has the suburban covered.” e been recognized as a global phe- space on the corner of Melrose avenue and although he is intent on growing in the U.S., nomenon. crescent heights Boulevard across the street Mimran acknowledged Joe Fresh isn’t going

“I’m always happy to wave Photo by from Fred Segal, the pop-up’s assortment has to be an overnight sensation in its own stores the flag that design is not strictly some 35 Joe Fresh styles, about half the num- in the U.S. because it lacks the name recogni- haute couture, but that there have curiosity and you have to ber that will be available in the brand’s in-store tion. Discussing its new York stores, the first is something about american have energy. I sometimes joke that shops at Penney’s, according to Siiri Dougherty, of which opened in 2011, he said, “we are real- sportswear that is such a part of 20 years ago, I used to say ‘oh I’m Penney’s senior vice president, general mer- istic about what we can accomplish in a short global dressing now. I think peo- so busy’ and now I realize I actu- chandise manager, women’s apparel. “It in- period of time. This is a really tough, tricky in- ple now realize there is more to ally had a lot of free time on my cludes dresses and crochet shorts to T-shirts, dustry. Yo u have to stay at it. Yo u have to be american sportswear than jeans hands.…Fashion is a reflection of tank tops and colored denim. It pretty much there. There is not a brand that has come to and T-shirts. It’s a way of dressing, the world that we live in. life is runs the gamut,” she said. “This is a good repre- america that has knocked it out of the park in it’s a way of life, ultimately. It’s not faster than it has ever been before sentation of what we are going to feature.” the first two minutes.” american anymore, it’s global,” and, therefore, fashion is faster Design and merchandising at the pop-up The pop-up launch party Thursday night Kors said. than it has ever been before. and mirrors Joe Fresh’s design and merchandising could help Joe Fresh’s awareness issue. nikki Valerie Steele, director of The you can either get left in the dust elsewhere. clothes are grouped by color stories. Reed and Paul McDonald performed at the party Museum at FIT, said Kors has in life, which therefore would They are mostly on racks lining the walls, which and, earlier in the day Thursday, Joe Fresh was been nominated many times by leave you in the dust in fashion, are white with orange accents, but there are also expecting 400 people to attend with hollywood the committee, which consists of or you can learn to speed up and shelves dedicated to colored denim and T-shirts, represented by the likes of Stacy Keibler, Jessica journalists, retailers and cura- move with the times.” notably the $10 Slub V-neck Tee styles that are lowndes, Rumer willis and louise Roe. tors. “The committee’s mandate Kors said the best advice he bestsellers for the brand. is to look not only at the previous would offer FIT students would be outfits are repeated on year’s accomplishments, but at a to get a job in a store. mannequins similar to lifetime of contributions to fash- “It worked for me. I think that a the way Joe Fresh makes ion,” she said. lot of young people are not aware statements about key Kors attended FIT, where he re- of how clothes are made, how looks in its stores. cently endowed the Michael Kors clothes fit and also what kind of “we tend to be very Scholarship with a $1 million gift, women wear what kind of clothes. clean in the way we mer- establishing an annual scholarship The best way to learn that is to be chandise,” said Mimran. for a fashion design student. in a store. and obviously, it also “we don’t dense up for Kors’ company, which went helps you define who you want the sake of densing up. public in December 2011, has your customer to be, who is ‘your That belies the price been on a fast track, generat- girl.’ It lets you see how fabrics point. In a lot of the fast- ing revenues of $1.96 billion last work when you see women in the fashion retailers, be- year. The firm produces a range of clothes, so you’re not operating in cause of the price point, products under the Michael Kors, an ivory tower.” they are forced to put Kors Michael Kors and Michael Past recipients of the couture a lot of product on the Michael Kors labels, ranging from council award are oscar de la floor. we do too, but we accessories, footwear, watches Renta, Valentino, Karl lagerfeld, still want to maintain a and jewelry to women’s and men’s Dries Van noten, Isabel Toledo, certain integrity to the ready-to-wear and fragrances. alber elbaz and Ralph Rucci. In merchandising. It has to asked about the whirlwind 2008, Giorgio armani received a have that feel of being ella he’s been on the past year, Kors special award for Global Fashion more than just stuff.” D replied, “well, I think that real- leadership. Before it rolls out to istically to sustain a long-lasting The luncheon chairs are Kamie Penney’s on March 15, The Joe Fresh pop-up in L.A.

career as a designer, you have to lightburn and Jieun wax. Joe Fresh hit the retail- Sar Donato the all-new reimagined redbook has arrived Raie Your expectations.

more fun. more fabulous. IntroducIng the real-woman's personal shopper.

Contact Mary Morgan, vp/publisher, Chief revenue Officer @ 212.649.3333 or [email protected] 6 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013 WWD.COM beauty Simon Baker Givenchy’s New Gentleman: Simon Baker Baker, whose police consultant charac- grance,” said Donche, adding, “These three By RACHEL BROWN ter Patrick Jane in CBS’ “The Mentalist” woods for us perfectly convey the idea of a is known around the world (as many as 15 truly seductive and confident person.” BEING A GENTLEMAN is the role of a million Americans and 6 million French The Gentlemen Only print ads are lifetime, literally, for Simon Baker. television viewers watch the show week- rooted in Givenchy Gentleman im- His self-described old-fashioned up- ly), is happy to use his exposure to propel ages from decades ago that depicted bringing, taste for well-made suits, wide- Givenchy fragrance sales. “There isn’t a woman under an umbrella held by a spread nice-guy reputation unusual in the a stigma attached to it in any way,” said hand, which is a man’s hand although dog-eat-dog world of Hollywood and the Baker, who is also a spokesman for watch that man is unseen. The Gentlemen Only irrepressible twinkle in his eye are all the manufacturer Longines. “They are not try- print ads, shot in Los Angeles by Patrick markers of a gentleman that convinced ing to force me to be anyone that I’m not. Demarchelier and breaking in the May Givenchy the 43-year-old Australian I’m lending my likeness and my image to or June issues of Details, GQ, InStyle,

actor was the right choice to front its these companies in a way where I feel com- Playboy, Us Weekly and Cosmopolitan, SARDELLA DONATO men’s fragrance, Gentlemen Only. fortable that they are not exploiting it.” envision Baker as the man who was ear- BY Launching in the U.S. Givenchy initially lier unseen gripping an umbrella that in April at Macy’s and broached the concept of a shelters a woman as he gets drenched. PHOTO Dillard’s, Gentlemen gentleman in 1975, when Directed by Peter Lindbergh, televi- Baker preferred the umbrella sce- Only will be available its founder, Hubert de sion ads will air globally starting March nario, even though he had to change in 1.7-oz. and 3.3-oz. Givenchy, stoked mas- in countries that include Italy, France, into about four different suits through eaux de toilette for culine elegance with Argentina and Mexico. The TV ads stick the course of the shoot because they $59 and $78, a 3.3-oz. the woodsy fragrance to the umbrella theme, but they weren’t kept getting wet. “How do you in 30 sec- aftershave for $48 and Givenchy Gentleman. originally going to do so. Baker re- onds or cut down to 15 seconds or in a a 2.5-oz deodorant Gentlemen Only counted that the ads were supposed to still sum up something that illustrates stick for $21. is meant to bring be about a card game between a woman gentlemanly behavior in a quick way, “I aspire to be a Givenchy in touch with and a man. “He’s got the cards to beat whether it is opening a door for some- gentleman. I don’t the modern gentle- her, and he folds anyway, which I always one or letting someone get into the car necessarily consider man, a global, con- thought was not really gentlemanly, but it first?” he asked. “An umbrella was a myself the ideal gen- nected, charming, pol- is a little bit like being a sucker,” he said. very easy way to do that.” tleman,” said Baker, his ished and humorous modesty reinforcing his Givenchy’s Gentlemen Only. individual who hasn’t gentlemanly credibility. “It’s re- forgotten time-honored LVMH Targets Men’s Fragrance Market ally about an awareness of yourself and values and isn’t afraid to care about how yourself amongst the presence of others, he looks or smells. Givenchy Gentleman, the scent launched how you behave, the use of manners and “We’ve gone through a period of time By JENNIFER WEIL in the Seventies. respect and restraint and dignity. I’m the- where we have broken down the notion Choosing Simon Baker to embody orizing and it gets a bit heavy when I talk that it is effeminate for a man to worry PARIS — Parfums Givenchy is angling to Gentleman Only came naturally, said Maman. about that stuff, but it is really just taking about how he looks, and I’m kind of glad strengthen its muscle in the dynamic men’s The scent’s advertising campaign, in which the time to be considerate of other people.” about that,” said Baker. “It’s funny, I don’t scent market with the launch of Gentlemen the actor stars, includes a video spot in 20 Gentlemen Only is Given chy’s first like the expression metrosexual. It was a Only, due out worldwide starting in April. and 30 seconds shot by Peter Lindbergh that’s new men’s fragrance in nearly four way of putting a label on the idea that is Women’s fragrances today generate just destined for TV and movie screens, and a print years. It’s meant to recharge Givenchy’s OK to be interested in how you look and less than 80 percent of the LVMH Moët ad photographed by Patrick Demarchelier. already-strong presence in the men’s present yourself without necessarily being Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand’s Takasago perfumer Françoise Donche fragrance arena. Givenchy’s men’s fra- gay. It felt like an excuse to me. I don’t care sales, according to Thierry Maman, global concocted the neo-aromatic woody fra- grance business is driven by its men’s if you are gay or straight, it doesn’t matter. president of Parfums Givenchy. He added grance, which includes notes of green fragrance pillars Play and Pi, accord- Yo u are still a man.” that the men’s scent segment, which glob- mandarin orange, pink peppercorn, nut- ing to Dorothée Boeuf-Hennequin, mar- Gentlemen Only has top notes of green ally grows at about 6 percent annually, out- meg and birch leaves. keting director for Parfums Givenchy mandarin, pink pepper, nutmeg and paces the general fragrance business. “It’s a juice of contrasts,” said Maman. in the U.S. Industry sources estimate birch leaf; middle notes of Texas cedar The other two main scents in While Givenchy executives would not dis- Gentlemen Only will generate 50 to 100 wood, patchouli and vetiver, and base Givenchy’s portfolio are Play and Pi. With cuss projections, industry sources estimate million euros, or roughly $65 million to notes of incense and cumin. Françoise Gentlemen Only, “we are trying to target a Gentlemen Only will generate 50 million $131 million at current exchange rates, at Donche, the nose of Parfums Givenchy, more classical and mainstream audience,” euros, or $65.5 million at current exchange, retail during its first year on counter. explained that the scent was created to explained Maman. in first-year wholesale revenues. “Gentlemen Only is another opportu- be obviously masculine and neoclassic, The brand aims for a “blockbuster,” The new scent’s bottle was created with nity to solidify our position in the men’s unlike the “gimmicky approach” she de- which is anchored in the house’s signature Jérôme Faillant Dumas. fragrance category. Simon personifies cried as ruling many male fragrances. characteristics that he described as “aris- The eau de toilette spray will come in the ideal gentleman and his high level She stressed that almost 70 percent of tocratic,” “chic” and “luxurious without 100- and 50-ml. versions, which are to retail of awareness is a perfect fit for the U.S. the scent formula is in the Texas cedar being ostentatious.” in France for 79.50 euros, or $104.20, and market,” said Nicholas Munafo, presi- wood, patchouli and vetiver components. The moniker Gentlemen Only fol- 58 euros, or $76, respectively. Ancillaries in- dent of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis “This is going to bring a very linear lowed on from there and is also a nod to clude an after-shave lotion and a deodorant. Vuitton fragrance brands for the U.S. character and stable character to the fra-

that are strong, out of the ordinary and of questions — he was awesome.” Bana Named Face of Bulgari Scent extreme. [Bana] has this self-confidence, As for working with Garrone, he was determination and power that makes him equally thrilled. “I was beside myself the background,” said Morillas. He said very seductive, charismatic and heroic.” that Matteo was directing [the com- By JULIA NEEL the fragrance was supposed to evoke the Manini added that the new scent “suc- mercial], because I had seen his film “sensation of fresh, fragrant air rush- cessfully embodies the values ‘Gomorrah,’ which was just in- LONDON — Bulgari is throwing the raw ing in when you open a window onto the of the brand: contemporary, Eric credible, so I truly went off on Australian masculinity of Eric Bana be- Mediterranean countryside. It is more a timelessness, elegance. We Bana one about that — he was prob- hind the launch of a new fragrance for feeling than a smell, a way of inspiring aim to enrich the Bulgari ably sick of me in the end! But men, Bulgari Man Extreme. a dream, of taking you away to another Man franchise with a power- it was a lot of fun.” “It was literally the first thing after place.” He explained that the base notes ful major novelty with strong Bulgari Man Extreme joins many years that came up and I went, “are still very Bulgari in their signature,” character and visibility to fur- the Bulgari Man, Pour Homme ‘Actually, yes, I will do that,’” said Bana with a combination of musks and sophis- ther penetrate the masculine and Aqua Pour Homme fran- in an interview with WWD at the Bulgari ticated wood notes like white woods and core target worldwide.” chises in the brand’s men’s Hotel in London, as he explained that he balsa. He used Haitian vetiver for “a Bana was photographed fragrance portfolio and will be had been approached countless times noble facet” and freesia for its “freshness by Peter Lindbergh for the available in 100-ml. and 60-ml. over the years to become the “face of ” and unconventional appeal.” print campaign, which breaks eau de toilette sizes, as well different brands. He joked, “Prior to this Valeria Manini, worldwide managing di- in April magazines, and di- as an aftershave balm. Prices I was just the face of myself!” rector for Bulgari Parfums, noted that the rected by Matteo Garrone for start from $44 for the 100-ml. The fragrance, which will launch later new scent is inspired by Roman emperors the television ads (which will balm and $59 for the 60-ml. this month, was created by Firmenich’s and “a modern hero of great stature.” only run outside the U.S.), eau de toilette fragrance. In Alberto Morillas. It opens with zesty top “The portrayal of this hero required experiences that the actor the U.S., industry sources esti- notes of pink grapefruit, Calabrian ber- strength, stature, power, self-confi- relished. “I’m a photography mated the scent will be avail- gamot and cactus pulp, and deepens dence,” said Manini. “[The campaign] nut, so to get the chance to able in about 3,000 department with a masculine floral blend of white required an actor instead of a model, a work with [Lindbergh] and and specialty stores. Industry freesia, Guatemalan cardamom and man with personality that could inter- see how he worked was great, sources also estimated that the vegetal amber, with balsa wood, Haitian pret the Bulgari Man Extreme character. and he was really lovely, actu- scent could do $10 million to vetiver and Laotian benzoin. “I created Eric Bana is best known for his lead role ally,” said Bana. “He was re- $15 million at retail in the U.S. the new perfume for Bulgari with the of the Greek hero Hector in the movie ally open; I was going off on in its first year on counter. idea of evoking a new freshness with- ‘Troy.’ A man without fear, who compro- one about shooting and pho- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS out neglecting a modern sensuality in mises on nothing, experiences emotions tography and asking a bunch FROM BELISA SILVA ADVERTISEMENT

Paris // March 8, 2013 RunwayThe

Akris Givenchy John Galliano RepoRT

So many great designers, so many great collections: Covering Paris Fashion Week is a challenge, but one we relish as we sort through the experimental techniques, bold new silhouettes, innovative fabrications, and sophisticated stylings. The Fall 2013 season becomes more defined as trends emerge and gain dominance. Its presence on the Paris runways confirmed what we had suspected throughout Collections season—that fur will be a calling card in an exciting and broad array of creative adaptations.

Chloé Giambattista Valli Maxime Simoëns

Akris GivenChy John GAlliAno Swiss label Akris is renowned for their impeccable Givenchy introduced grunge to those who missed it This season’s John Galliano collection—or the John quality and timelessness. The brand is a discreet trend- the first time. Actually, Riccardo Tisci’s version is the Galliano by Bill Gaytten collection—was a stark exer- setter, a stylish chameleon of a label that pleases a way it ought to be nowadays. After all, grunge was all cise in restrained elegance and masterful tailoring. broad audience. This season, designer Albert Kriemler about appropriation back then, discarded thrift-shop Mr. Gaytten is steadily removing the layers of theatri- turned to the personal style of his mother, Ute, for his finds and army-navy surplus stuf. Today’s interpreta- cality associated with the eponymous name. This inspiration. The all black collection with its one bold tion is more complex, both technologically driven and collection was truly beautiful, especially if you are a white look transitioned from day to evening efortlessly, historically ambiguous. Who knew that combining fan of geometrical cuts, folds, classic drapery, and a with finishes from traditional Swiss bouclé to crystal plaids with floral prints, morphing street style with modest frisson of flamboyance. Mr. Gaytten didn’t beading. Chic garçonne looks included blouse and couture techniques, pairing quilting with fur, could deny himself the Galliano vocabulary but avoided trouser ensembles, tunic tops, and a shear turtleneck look so much like the next big thing? Among his looks superficial nonsense. He wisely used fur to bridge the dress. Pony and broadtail were introduced as surrogate were even some polished styles for the more traditional old with the new. This was a remarkable collection tafetas. A mink cape and Tibetan lamb jacket were Givenchy client. Mr. Tisci’s sartorial temperament is sure to catapult both the label and Mr. Gaytten into a easy luxe. This collection was chic in its restraint hard to pin-down, so why be a stickler for conventions? new decade of well-deserved appreciation. and delivery. This collection is directional and yet very wearable.

mAxime simoëns Chloé GiAmbAttistA vAlli Maxime Simoëns is an accidental iconoclast, having In just two years, Chloé has redefined its identity Giambattista Valli’s latest collection was an started his career in haute couture, and now showing and, as this latest collection attests, there is a strong- amazing display of luxuriousness and tactile refine- his first prêt-à-porter collection (most, nowadays, do it minded client behind the changes. No boho gals here, ments. His fur treatments were everywhere throughout the other way around). Mr. Simoëns ofered polite it’s all about the uniform idea, a few menswear touches, the line-up, working their way into the necklines and creations with lots of savoir-faire to parallel some of his and a whole lot of little eccentricities. Clare Waight waists of dresses, sleeves, and collars, and of course full haute couture experimentations. This collection Keller also enjoys occasionally challenging conven- looks. His gold-sprayed pearl grey broadtail coat was credited Swan Lake, executed in high-hem silhouettes tionality. This line-up is as much about glamorizing spectacular in its simplicity and chic, encapsulating the and flared skirts. His first foray was impressive, everyday basics—such as delivering sweatpants in collection’s privileged and opulent aura. The largely showing an advanced sense of style and an impeccable leather, or transforming a home knit sweater with fur black and white looks, with a few dabs of eye-catching finesse. The surprises came with the finishes. appliqué—as it is about reinterpreting a teenager’s grey and red sprinkled throughout, reflected a His graphic and textured plumage in cutout pony is school clothes or her mother’s wardrobe. Her emphasis luxurious women’s wear canvas infused with a little impressive and efective. His other fur accents were this season was primarily her daywear, where she men’s wear savvy. The result: beautifully crafted, more conventional; still, a sapphire blue lamb jacket created original hybrids, such as a lamb bib-coat or couture-like clothes for an equally beautiful clientele. was eye-popping fun. stenciled sheared fur skirt.

news At Andrew Gn dyed fox collars provided bold accents. Gustavo Lins introduced innovative, sophisticated silhouettes in plush sheared mink. An orange and black goat cape was the perfect complement for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s color-matched plaid dress. At Saint Laurent, a pale & notes pink fox coat was pure seduction. LUXUrY rEiMaGiNED

Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860 West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.furinsider.com 8 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013

Carven Makeup artist: Nina Haverkamp Hairstylist: Romina Manenti

Mixing It Up Backstage WWD WENT BEHIND THE SCENES DURING THE WOMEN’S FALL READY-TO-WEAR SEASON IN PARIS, WHERE HAIRSTYLISTS AND MAKEUP ARTISTS WERE WORKING IN HIGH GEAR PRIOR TO THE SHOWS.

ALL PHOTOS BY DELPHINE ACHARD; VACCARELLO BY DOMINQUE MAITRE

Lanvin Makeup artist: Pat McGrath Hairstylist: Guido Palau

Dries Van Noten Makeup artist: Peter Philips Hairstylist: Paul Hanlon

Anthony Vaccarello Makeup artist: Tom Pecheux Hairstylist: Anthony Turner

Yohji Yamamoto Makeup artist: Pat McGrath Hairstylist: Eugene Souleiman

Kenzo Makeup artist: Aaron de Mey Hairstylist: Anthony Turner WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013 9 WWD.COM

COLLECTIONS PARIS FALL 2013

Issey Miyake Makeup artist: Lucia Peroni Hairstylist: Eugene Souleiman

Stella McCartney Makeup artist: Pat McGrath Hairstylist: Eugene Souleiman

Valentino Makeup artist: Pat McGrath Hairstylist: Guido Palau

Akris Makeup artist: Diane Kendal Hairstylist: Guido Palau

Viktor & Rolf Makeup artist: Pat McGrath Hairstylist: Luigi Murenu

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

Isabel Marant WWD.com/ Makeup artist: Tom Pecheux beauty-industry-news. Hairstylist: Paul Hanlon 10 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013

Adrien Brody in Maison Martin Margiela with One Last Dance Arizona Muse. KATE MOSS rocked the dance with a solid presentation for fl oor on Tuesday in a jaw- Chastain, who immediately dropping sheer jumpsuit from followed in his steps. Saint Laurent, freshly picked “Movement is key. It’s a from the runway. Karl Lagerfeld, wonderful thing when you can Riccardo Tisci and Jessica Chastain get to a place where you let go, were also swinging it at the uninhibited,” said Adrien Brody. Shangri-La Hotel in Paris to The actor has just fi nished celebrate the second issue of shooting Wes Anderson’s fi lm Carine Roitfeld’s magazine CR “Grand Budapest Hotel” in Fashion Book, which has a Germany. “It’s a fable,” he dance theme. said. “I did another fi lm with Marie-Agnès Paul Haggis shot Gillot, principal in Rome, and I dancer at the Paris FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE will be doing a Opera, performed WWD.com/eye. fi lm in the South a pas de deux of France this Riccardo Tisci with with Vincent Chaillet summer. I’m very Jessica Chastain in Givenchy. while Karlie Kloss European.” shared a piece of her past. “I Gaia Repossi was sporting studied ballet every single an eye-catching cuff made Amanda Carine Roitfeld day after school when growing from 6,110 tiny diamonds, Seyfried in in Givenchy with up, but then grew too tall and following an abstract pattern. Givenchy. Kanye West. realized that a professional “It was inspired by the Vienna ballet career was not in my Secession and represents future, and I used my height branches,” she explained. for other things,” she smiled. Peter Dundas, clad in a white Tisci said he loves tuxedo, said it would be his salsa, while Lagerfeld’s turn next to throw a party. “I’m favorite is tango, though he opening two fl agships — a big refused to dance in front of shop in Paris next October photographers. during fashion week,” revealed “Jitterbug,” shouted the Pucci creative director. He Chastain. “What’s yours?” she added that the second store STEPHANE FEUGERE

asked her boyfriend, Gian Luca would be in Rome. BY Passi de Preposulo. He said it was — LAURE GUILBAULT AND Karolina

the twist and made his point PAULINA SZMYDKE PHOTOS Kurkova

James Franco Surf Club eye Wiz Kid in Gucci. AS A LATE winter bluster began in fashion,” Byrne said after handing off a ON TUESDAY NIGHT at the DGA New York on Wednesday night, those Champagne fl ute to a publicist. Theater on West 57th Street in dreaming of a sunny sojourn took “Aren’t the prints so fun?” said Vanessa Manhattan, James Franco was due refuge in the Roxy boutique in New Hudgens, who arrived shortly after, as she to arrive for the middle third of a York’s SoHo. The girls’ surf brand held eyed a nearby rack. The starlet has spent promotional scheduling magic act to a launch party for its collaboration much time as of late in a bikini while promote Disney’s imminent “Wizard with Diane von Furstenberg on a 35-piece fi lming Harmony Korine’s much frothed over of Oz” prequel, “Oz the Great and collection. Shoppers puttered around “Spring Breakers.” “I think spring break Powerful.” First there was a matinee the store in all its skater-surfer splendor, is starting this week, but I’ve actually at the Crosby Street Hotel, hosted by checking out the merch: string bikinis, never been. ‘Spring Breakers’ was like HSN, which has a collection pegged to Neoprene boardshorts, cotton cover-ups my only spring break experience,” the should-be blockbuster. Then there and beach totes, all in von Furstenberg’s Hudgens said. “But the most extreme was the late show at DGA, hosted by signature sanguine prints. “This is so and crazy version I would never want to The Cinema Society and Gucci. Finally, cute. I would totally wear this to the ever actually happen to me.” The actress, as organizers at the theater reminded offi ce,” one partygoer said to another, insulated by the fl urry of iPhone-wielding reporters, there was a taping of “The studying a fetching Aloha rash guard. teens, smiled and waved as the crowd Colbert Report” still to come.

Her comment was met with a raised swelled around her, moving en masse as The press line passed its time with STEVE EICHNER eyebrow. “Why not? With a pair of high- she made her way across the room. other moviegoers. Dick Cavett asked if BY waisted jeans?” “I love the beach but I’m not much Judy Garland was in this version. Emmy Kelia Moniz and Monyca Byrne-Wickey, the of a surfer,” Hudgens offered before Rossum wore an “Oz”-ready Oscar de PHOTOS Roxy-sponsored pro surfers who feature hamming it up for photographers, la Renta dress in Technicolor blue. in the collection’s campaign, posed for holding a bikini top to her chest, lips She said she had never tried the trick Hadn’t there been a 3-D swimsuit photographers and gave their compulsory pursed. “I’m not a water girl. I don’t like where you synch up the 1939 original issue recently? “Yes. I was in it,” she remarks on the collection. “It’s not about getting my face wet.” to Pink Floyd’s “Dark Side of the exclaimed. looking sexy. It’s about function and — TAYLOR HARRIS Moon.” Sports Illustrated swimsuit And then Franco, who plays the model Alyssa Miller posed in a backless titular wizard of the movie, arrived black Balmain jumpsuit as she made in a fl ash of cameras and well-coiffed Vanessa her way to grab her 3-D glasses. hair. His publicist brought him to a Hudgens group of reporters. He offered up a few words about respecting such beloved Alyssa Miller material while coming up with a in Balmain. “fresh” approach. “So instead of Dorothy, an innocent girl, as an emissary into Oz, you have a con man and a completely different experience in Oz,” he said. “You get to see the familiar place but the audience gets a completely new route through that place.” His time-sensitive rep quickly shepherded him to a second press cluster. His look suggested that he might prefer to be swallowed up by a Kansas twister or spirited away by fl ying monkeys. It was all over in a few minutes, or about the same amount of time Franco then spent in conversation with Klaus Biesenbach near STEVE EICHNER the theater’s front door. Then he was off to see Colbert.

PHOTO BY — MATTHEW LYNCH WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013 11 WWD.COM Fashion scoops MeMo pad VALEXTRA DEAL NEARS: Sources my cause.…They came in like a TAKING STOCK: Time Warner investors appeared in ad campaigns for Opening in Milan say Valextra is close to hurricane.” The actress said she has were clearly pleased to hear the Ceremony and editorial features for finalizing a deal to sell a stake to aligned herself with women’s causes company planned to spin off all of its Lucky and Harper’s Bazaar; Nathalie London-based private equity fund since she was 17 years old. publishing division into a separately Love, an aspiring actress who worked Neo Capital and that former Bally “This little idea that I had is one listed company instead of setting up a with Emma Roberts, James Franco and chief executive officer Marco Franchini of the best things I’ve done in my joint venture with Meredith Corp. that director Gia Coppola on an upcoming is in pole position to helm the life,” said a visibly emotional Hayek would have held just some of its titles. film; Lily Kwong, a model, writer and luxury accessories firm. A company Pinault. “Maybe it is our generation Time Warner’s stock gained 2.4 percent luxury brand ambassador who was spokesman had no comment on the who makes change happen.” to $56.78 on Thursday. featured in Vogue’s 120th anniversary speculation on Thursday. Avon chief executive officer Sheri Shares of Meredith, on the other issue as one of the 120 biggest fashion As reported in WWD last month, McCoy said the issue affects nearly one hand, fell 6.2 percent to $37.82, meaning influencers, and Leigh Lezark, one third Valextra is the latest Italian company billion women around the world, and markets saw an opportunity missed. of the Misshapes. Target plans to mulling an initial public offering as that, since 2004, Avon has contributed — EVAN CLARK hold a private event in Manhattan to chairman and ceo Emanuele Carminati $50 million in grants for programs celebrate the launch. Molina said he was discussing the that aim to put an end to violence KATE’S TASTES: It’s clear from the — SHARON EDELSON future of the brand with a number against women. McCoy said, “Avon is advertising campaign for the Kate THEIR TURN: It’s almost here again — of private equity funds, including a powerful force for education and Young for Target limited-time awards season for the media world. The Neo Capital, to expand Valextra and awareness and for change.” collection that Kate Young isn’t a one- nominations for the National Magazine eventually go public. — MOLLY PRIOR note Nancy. The stylist tries to find Awards will be out the first week of After seven years, Franchini left the quirky details that make a look April, and then the Pulitzers will be Bally in spring 2009 for personal CHU’S NEW ROLE: David Chu has been one’s own. Young’s line of formal and unveiled. First out of the gate are the reasons after orchestrating a major named chief executive officer of semiformal wear will bow at all Target awards from the Society of Publication overhaul, tapping Brian Atwood as Georg Jensen, the Copenhagen-based stores and target.com on April 14, Designers, the Oscars of magazine creative director and returning the luxury silver, jewelry and watch following Prabal Gurung’s collection, designers. Bloomberg Businessweek, company to the black. — LUISA zARGANI design company. which launched on Feb. 10. This is which took the top prize last year, Chu, who made his mark as the the first time Target has worked on a was edged out this time around by AVON AWARDS: As she stood on a founder of Nautica and had also been limited-time collection with a stylist. Bon Appetit, Fast Company, GQ and small stage at the United Nations chief creative officer for Tumi, had “We always wanted to do a line W, whose nominated creative and on Thursday, facing an audience previously served as co-chairman of of semiformal and special occasion design directors, Alex Gonzalez and Anton of global activists determined to the board and chief creative officer dresses,” said Trish Adams, senior vice Ioukhnovets, have left for Marie Claire end domestic violence, Salma Hayek of the Scandinavian brand. He will president of apparel and accessories and Bloomberg Pursuits, respectively. Pinault said, “I just presented at the continue to serve on the board and at Target, when the partnership was Johan Svensson, formerly of French Vogue, Academy Awards and I was not even will retain his chief creative officer unveiled in January. “Here’s someone is the glossy’s new design director. For half as nervous and scared as I am role, overseeing the design direction that creates jaw-dropping moments.” best cover, Thomas Alberty of New York today, but also not half as excited and strategy for all products. For the ad campaign, Young and magazine scored a nomination for the as I am to be with you.” Hayek “It is an honor to lead this Target chose four women with magazine’s much-lauded cover after Pinault, who presented awards on company,” Chu said. “I have great different backgrounds and interests. Hurricane Sandy, which showed a behalf of Avon Products Inc. at the respect for its more-than-100- The women were photographed powerless lower Manhattan and is going year-long tradition of excellence by Terry Richardson standing on a up against three covers by the New York in design and craftsmanship and red carpet in front of a step-and- Times Sunday Magazine, where creative Salma look forward to creating new repeat backdrop plastered with the is led by Arem Duplessis, and one by small Hayek collaborations with designers and Kate Young for Target logo. They design magazine Metropolis, whose art Pinault artists. My goal is to bring Georg include Hailey Gates, a model who has director is Rodrigo Sanchez. — ERIK MAzA Jensen to the design-conscious community all over the world.” Chu teamed up with Investcorp in late 2012 to acquire the Georg Jensen brand for $140 million from private equity group Axcel Capital Partners. Founded in 1904, Georg Jensen has had collaborations with 20th- century artists and designers including Henning Koppel, Johan Rohde and Arne Jacobsen. — JEAN E. PALMIERI small space IN GOOD FAITH: True Religion Apparel Inc.’s five-month-long quest for a buyer might have gotten just a bit less complicated last week. The company informed Jeffrey Lubell, its founder, chairman, chief executive officer and creative director, that, in light of its continuing review of strategic alternatives, “it would not be appropriate” to renew his employment agreement for another three-year term before it expires June 30. According to a filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission on Friday, he will continue to serve in those capacities and the company said it “would john aquino like the opportunity to explore an Big alternative arrangement with him.”

photo by In 2011, Lubell earned $9 million at True Religion, just under $1 million in salary, just over $4 million in a second annual Avon Communications cash bonus and about $3.9 million in Awards: Speaking Out About stock awards. Business Violence Against Women, said, “Not — ARNOLD J. KARR every country in the world has a problem with hunger, but every place ON THE ROAD AGAIN: Now that the in the world has a problem with fall shows are over, it’s time to start WWD Marketplace is the premier destination domestic violence.” making travel arrangements for She has worked with Avon and resort. Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld are for the industry’s classified and career listings. the Avon Foundation for Women heading to Singapore to show their on the cause since 2004, when she latest cruise collection on May 9 at was named a brand spokeswoman. a yet-undisclosed location. And Dior Hayek Pinault no longer fronts the and Raf Simons are heading to Monaco Avon brand — she’s since created for a resort show on May 18. her own beauty line called Nuance The two French fashion houses 800.423.3314 — but she continues to serves as frequently take their collections on an Avon Foundation ambassador. the road. Chanel has shown cruise She recalled that nearly 10 years in Venice and Miami, while Dior has wwd.com/marketplace ago, “I asked Avon if I could use travelled to New York and Shanghai to their infrastructure to help with present the collection. — MILES SOCHA

w08a011a;7.indd 2 3/7/13 8:49 PM 03072013205013 12 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 8, 2013 WWD.COM Smaller Comp Sample Manages Small Gains Michael Niemira, vice president of re- ated sample, the Thomson Reuters Same- By ARNOLD J. KARR search and chief economist at ICSC, said, Store Sales Index was up 3.9 percent, ex- “All things considered, the numbers aren’t cluding drugstores, better than the fi nal February The 2013 retail calendar got off to an un- all that bad, and I think one of the reasons 3.3 percent estimate for the month and the inspiring start following a mass exodus of is that we’re seeing improvement in both weakest performance since last May. The Comparable retailers from monthly reporting and tepid sales and prices in the housing market. International Council of Shopping Centers results among those still participating in That’s helping to propel the consumer for- pinpointed the chain-store sales gain, also Sales the ritual. ward and one reason to be optimistic.” excluding drugstores, at 4.2 percent, a % Change Stores generally bested analysts’ ex- He said a strong jobs report from the point weaker than in January. American Apparel 6 pectations but fell well short of their Labor Department today would also help to With the department stores and the ...... year-ago performances as wintry weath- bolster consumer confi dence and spending. biggest discounters now out of the comp Costco * 6 er, delays in tax refunds, budgetary un- With the end of the 2012-13 retail year, mix, much of the heavy lifting fell to Gap ...... certainty in Washington and higher gas the last of the department store retailers — and to the nation’s two largest off-price Old Navy 6 prices conspired to keep many consum- Nordstrom Inc., Macy’s Inc., Kohl’s Corp., chains, The TJX Cos. Inc. and Ross Stores ...... ers away from stores following the holi- Stage Stores Inc. and The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. Ross was a double disappointment, Victoria’s Secret 5 ...... day season and a January dominated by Inc. — exited from monthly reporting, and both missing estimates and registering a Gap 2 clearance activity. Target Corp. joined retail giant Wal-Mart rare decline, its 1 point drop qualifying ...... The results also represented a contin- Stores Inc. on the sidelines. as its worst result since a 2 percent drop TJX Cos. 1 uation of the plateau effect many stores Gap Inc. opted to continue the practice, in January 2009. Michael Balmuth, vice ...... are facing in the new year as they face but its plan to report after the close of the chairman and chief executive offi cer, pro- Stein Mart 0.6 off against robust numbers logged early equity markets was upended when a tran- jected a 1 to 2 percent decline in March ...... in 2012. script of its monthly call was leaked earlier and a 5 to 6 percent upward rebound in Bath & Body Works 0 “Just about every retailer is going to be in the day, leading to a temporary halt in April, with Easter falling later than it did ...... Ross Stores -1 facing headwinds, and it adds up to a chal- trading of its shares. a year ago...... lenging picture for the fi rst quarter,” said Despite the premature reportage, Gap TJX fared better, moving up 1 per- Buckle -1.1 Rebecca Duval, vice president and analyst excelled during the month with a 3 percent cent, but both retailers felt a whiff of ...... at BlueFin Research Partners in Boston. comparable-store sales increase overall. disappointment from Wall Street. Ross Cato -3 “Most stores had very strong comps in the The 6 percent increase at Old Navy quali- shares dropped $4.47, or 7.5 percent, to ...... fi rst and second quarters last year, and fi ed as the strongest gain of the month, a $55.23 while TJX’s slipped 32 cents, or Banana Republic -5 you’ve got everything from less money in distinction shared with Costco Wholesale 0.7 percent, to $44.62. The S&P Retailing ...... people’s paychecks and the delays in tax Corp., with the exclusion of fuel, and Industry Group overall fell 1.42 points, Zumiez -8.9 refunds to the weather breaking in the American Apparel Inc., with the inclusion or 0.2 percent, to 720.93 while the Dow ...... wrong direction to deal with now.” of online sales. The Gap division was up 2 Jones Industrial Average was up 33.25 Perfumania -9.2 Thomson Reuters analyst Jharonne percent while Banana Republic trended points, or 0.2 percent, to 14,329.49 after SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS Martis-Olivo noted that year-ago results down 5 percent. hitting an all-time high of 14,354.69 dur- * Excludes fuel sales. “received a boost from warmer weather.” Taken together, and with an abbrevi- ing midday trading.

OVS Supporting Young Designers Sycamore Partners Snaps Up Hot Topic “The launch of this project {Continued from page one} By ALESSANDRA TURRA will also mark the debut of our apparel. Combining all those with systems im- A look from fi rst e-store, and we think it’s plementations, they can take the [profi t] margin Torrid. MILAN — OVS is gearing up fundamental to open all the structure up substantially.” to launch F4YG, #Fashion for communication channels with For the nine months ended Oct. 27, Hot Topic Young Generation, a project sup- our customers,” Sama said. posted net earnings of $7.4 million, versus a loss porting young fashion designers. To support the F4YG initia- a year earlier, on sales of $508.8 million. Gross The Italian mass-market re- tive, during the first week of margins stood at 35.3 percent of sales. tailer, which is under the Coin April, OVS will unveil an adver- Private equity companies often look to buy Group umbrella, has teamed tising campaign that was pho- companies that need some fi xing up but also up with both a series of inter- tographed at London’s Central have clear growth opportunities and, in some national fashion schools and Saint Martins headquarters. cases, could benefi t from time away from the prestigious designers to select a The second chapter of the public spotlight. number of talents, who will real- project, which will be focused Hot Topic ticks all those boxes. ize a capsule collection for OVS. on Italy, will debut in the fall. The deal values the retailer at $14 a share, a “Young people are some- roughly 30 percent premium over Wednesday’s times said to have no energy A sketch close. “Sycamore Partners will provide great re- and no ambition, but we com- from the sources and expertise to us as we operate as a pletely disagree with this opin- fi rst F4YG private company,” said Lisa Harper, chief execu- ion,” OVS general manager collection. tive offi cer and chairman of Hot Topic. Francesco Sama told WWD. “On A spokeswoman for the retailer said Harper the contrary, they are extremely would continue to head the business. talented, they do their best to Hot Topic was not looking for a deal, the succeed in what they do, so we spokeswoman said, “But once the offer was re- think that a company like OVS ceived, the board determined that it was at a can offer them an important premium worthy of consideration. The company stage to showcase their cre- explored alternate competing proposals and de- ations and get a real feedback termined that the Sycamore proposal was the from customers.” best way to maximize value for shareholders.” Tracey Wong, a 26-year-old Jeff Van Sinderen, an analyst at B. Riley & graduate of London’s Central Co., said the offer price represents “a pretty av- Saint Martins, has been selected erage multiple” at about 8.1 times his estimate by OVS and her tutor Matthew for the company’s annual earnings before inter- Williamson to design the fi rst est, taxes, depreciation and amortization. F4YG capsule collection, which Van Sinderen said he would not be shocked if will hit 100 OVS stores across another bidder emerged before the deal closes. mall growth slowing to a crawl and more con- Italy on April 20. “Given the growth potential of the company sumers going online, specialty stores are rein- “I’m pleased to support OVS and its unique concepts, we could see an acquir- venting themselves. That along with relatively on this great initiative. I un- er agreeing to pay somewhere in between $14 low stock prices have helped draw would-be ac- derstand how tough it can be to and $16.40 [a share],” he said. quirers to the channel. break into the fashion world as If the acquisition does go through, it might “They need to leverage secondary concepts,” a young designer, and innovative also help Sycamore maximize its own portfolio, said Kloppenburg, of specialty stores. “They projects such as F4YG provide a which includes The Talbots Inc. and apparel need to optimize international opportunities. platform to nurture and elevate sourcing fi rm Mast Global Fashions. Mast is al- They need to build out the e-commerce space.” young talent,” said Williamson. ready one of Hot Topic’s vendors. A spokesman They also have to compete against the likes of “The pieces are designed to re- for Sycamore declined to comment on the deal. Uniqlo, Joe Fresh, Zara, H&M and others. flect an aesthetic that is both “[Hot Topic] is going to be able to move faster “It doesn’t mean you’re dead,” Kloppenburg young and playful but contempo- as a private entity,” said Janet Kloppenburg, an- said. “It means you have to look at the new chan- rary in detail, cut and placement alyst at JJK Research, who sees Torrid and the nels of growth for your brand and penetrate of print,” said Wong. company’s budding fi ve-door Blackheart lingerie them as well as you’ve penetrated the malls. The collection, which in- concept as growth opportunities for Sycamore. That’s what the message of this Hot Topic acqui- cludes 19 pieces with an aver- A decade ago, mall-based specialty stores had sition by Sycamore is.” age price of about 30 euros, or seemingly endless expansion ahead of them and Bank of America Merrill Lynch served as fi - $39 at current exchange, will the comparable-store sales of Hot Topic and oth- nancial adviser to Sycamore, while Guggenheim also be available online at ovs.it. ers made them darlings of Wall Street. But with Securities represented Hot Topic.