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WINTER SCENE AT . IN THE DARKNESS OF THE LONG NIGHT A NEW ZEALANDER PREPARES TO FEED ONE OF THE HUNGRY SNOW MELTERS UPON WHICH THE SUPPLY OF FRESH WATER FOR THE BASE DEPENDS. Antarctic Division, D.S.I.R. Photo

Vol. 7 No. 6 Registered at Post Office Headquarters. Wellington, New Zealand, as a magazine. June, 1975 GEORGIA SOUTH SANDWICH Is

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'.larsen ■:•■; IceSheifc: ° L00m i^TWWWt 'ARWAIBQVIKP* (Successor to "Antarctic News Bulletin")

78th ISSUE June, 1975

Editor: J. M. CAFFIN, 35 Chepstow Avenue, Christchurch 5. Address all contributions, enquiries, etc., to the Editor.

CONTENTS

ARTICLE THEY CAME BACK TO LYTTELTON 189, 190, 191

POLAR ACTIVITIES NEW ZEALAND 171, 172, 177 AUSTRALIA 173, 174, 185 UNITED KINGDOM 170, 178, 179 UNITED STATES 171, 172, 182, 183, 184 SOUTH AFRICA 180, 181

SUB-ANTARCTIC GOUGH ISLAND 192, 193

GENERAL NEW ZEALAND POLICY 169, 170 WINTER WORLD 171, 172 AUSTRALIA'S FUTURE 175, 176 SEARCH FOR RELICS 186, 187, 188

June is a significant month in Antarctica. As its days pass, the men wintering at stations on the continent begin to look forward to the sun's return. They celebrate Midwinter's Day in the cheerful knowledge that they are half-way to the end of their winter isolation. This year June is a month of vital importance to all who want Antarctica to remain free from pollution, and the exploitation of its min eral and natural resources. The results of the meeting of Antarctic Treaty nations in Oslo this month may well decide the future of Antartica as a continent for science, the one region where men can still work together in mutual tolerance and trust, free from the pressures of economic rivalry. ANTARCTIC NEW ZEALAND POLICY ON ANTARCTICA Like the New Zealand Antarctic Society, the New Zealand Govern ment firmly believes that a regime to regulate mineral exploration and exploitation in Antarctica is essential if the Antarctic Treaty is to continue to have practical meaning. This indication of New Zealand's policy has been given by the Prime Minister (Mr W. E. Rowling) in reply to a letter from the society which expressed concern at the possible consequences of uncontrolled economic development in Antarctica. Late last year the society set up a could be most serious. The environment working group to study the need for could suffer irreparable loss, and hos measures to control economic activities tilities could arise over territorial claims. in Antarctica. The Prime Minister was In short, the present highly successful asked, as Minister of Foreign Affairs, period of co-operation under the Antarc if the working group's study could be tic Treaty could be succeeded by a period considered by the New Zealand dele of tension which would impose fresh gation to the consultative meeting of the strains on international relations. Antarctic Treaty nations in Oslo this "It is for these reasons that the Gov month. Mr Rowling has said in his ernment is anxious that Antarctic Treaty letter, written before the meeting, that members should resolve this issue. New the views of the Government and the Zealand took the initiative in raising society largely coincide. Therefore the this matter at the 1970 consultative society's position will be well reflected meeting in Tokyo, and at the 1972 con in the instructions for the New Zea sultative meeting in Wellington it again land delegation. pressed for action but with very little Mr Rowling says that the Govern success. ment's view does not reflect any desire "Since the 1972 consultative meeting on its part to see Antarctica "opened we have continued to impress upon up" but, rather, is based on the con Treaty members the importance of clusion, shared by the society, that min reaching an agreement before exploita eral exploration and exploitation will tion commences so that negotiations can inevitably occur. be conducted free from the additional "In the last 10 years man's knowledge political pressures that would inevitably about the mineral potential of Antarc arise. Most Treaty members now recog tica has increased enormously. So too, nise that this question has become fairly has the knowledge about techniques for urgent. At a prepatory meeting held extracting minerals in difficult environ in Oslo in October, 1974, it was agreed mental conditions. In a situation where that the next consultative meeting should there were proven mineral resources and tackle the issue of mineral exploration the means of extracting them, it is the and exploitation as a matter of priority. Government's view that it would be difficult ,indeed impossible, to prevent MANY ISSUES countries already experiencing great "You wiJJ appreciate, I am sure, that energy problems from exploiting them. it will not be easy to reach final agree ment, and that it could take some time. FRESH STRAINS Many issues in addition to environ "The consequences of uncontrolled mental protection, certainly one of the mineral exploration and exploitation most important, will need to be con- ANTARCTIC

sidercd, and a number of them relate station would be challenged, establish to sensitive questions such as sovereignty. ment of environmental standards before economic development would allow any "It is the Government's view that country to consider the need to meet negotiations on these matters should SLich standards if planning development be directed towards furthering the prin in any part of Antarctica. ciples embodied in the Antarctic Treaty — preservation of Antarctica for peace ful purposes, the promotion of inter national co-operation in Antarctica, and the protection of the unique Antarctic Polar studies environment." course In its study the working group says that the Antarctic Society recognises In October this year the Scott Polar that economic development in Antarctica Research Institute of Cambridge Uni is inevitable, although not necessarily de versity intends to start a one-year post sirable. The society believes that the graduate course leading to a Diploma in Antarctic Treaty does not offer sufficient Polar Studies. No such course is given protection at present for the Antarctic elsewhere in the world. environment. There are no binding pro visions for specific environmental stand The objects are to provide a broad ards to be observed on most of the con background of polar knowledge, and to tinent, and in its adjacent waters. Also, enable each candidate to investigate a there are no effective means of policing, topic of his choice in depth. It is hoped maintaining, and reviewing such stand the course will be specially appropriate ards. for those in government, industry, and academic life, whose careers call for this kind of knowledge and training. URGENT NEED Lectures and seminars in the course, The working group considers that a which will run from October to June policy to regulate environmental stand each year, will cover the following sub ards for the whole of Antarctica is jects in their relation to both polar needed urgently. The society suggests, regions: natural environment, peoples, therefore, that such a policy should be history, resources and problems of applied to all activities, where govern development, government and social ment or non-government, scientific, ex relations. Each candidate will be re ploratory or economic. quired to write during the year a 10,000 There is scope for the establishment to 20,000-word thesis on a particular and management of an environmental subject. standards policy within the framework The staff of the institute who will be o fthe Antarctic Treaty. This could be principally involved in the teaching of done by extending the present provisions the course will be Dr G. de Q. Robin for the protection of flora and fauna, (the director), Dr B. B. Roberts, Dr T. and special areas. .Such a policy should E. Armstrong, Dr Caroline Humphrey, provide for control over all activities and Mr H. G. R. King. in oceans and coastal waters, and on land and ice shelf areas of Antarctica. Applicants should have a first degree from a university. Other evidence of The society considers that an environ fitness to study for the diploma may be mental standards policy should be estab accepted, however, in special circum lished now, before specific proposals for stances. Those interested should apply economic exploration or development to the Board of Graduate Studies, M»ll are announced. This should reduce or Lane, Cambridge, Engls-nd, CB2, 1RZ, remove the political implications of such which will send more information and a policy. No single project and no single application forms. ANTARCTIC

WINTER WORLD Neighbours share cold and darkness on New Zealand's winter party at Scott Base is now becoming used to perpetual winter darkness and low temperatures. Since the setting of the sun on April 24 marked the beginning of the long winter night the lowest temperature of the season has been minus 45deg Celsius. Late last month the New Zealanders' neighbours over the hill — 53 Americans and one Russian — reported that McMurdo Station was in total darkness, the only noticeable light being provided periodically by the full moon. The sea ice in McMurdo Sound was growing thicker. Seventeen men at the new Amundsen-Scott Station 825 miles to the south reported a drop in their water supply pressure, and complained mildly that the cook's big pretzels, the usual accompaniment with beer, needed coarser salt. There are 11 men at Scott Base this John Stevens. Many of the party had winter. Their working hours are fully been a number of miles out on the Ross occupied by the scientific programme Ice Shelf with John and his dogs. and regular maintenance. Olf duty they All the team recently competed in a read, or play pool and darts in their 200yd dash. There was no winner, only recreation room, and on Sunday nights first place in the drying room to get a group travels slightly more than two warm after a swim in the with miles to visit the American neighbours the air temperature at minus 25deg C, at the metropolis of McMurdo Station, and the water temperature minus 3degC. and play 10-pin bowling. Anzac Day was celebrated on April In his first newsletter from the south 24, the same day that the sun set for the Jim Newman, the officer-in-charge, re last time until it returns late in August. ported that temperatures — in April — All men available gathered outside the were getting lower every day, with minus main entrance to the base, and the New 40.7deg C as the lowest recorded. Men Zealand flag was lowered to half-mast could walk round quite comfortably in by Craig Nickerson. Then a short ser normal working clothing as long as vice was held in remembrance of the there was no wind blowing; cold wea dead of past wars. ther clothing was needed for work any Afterwards Craig lowered the flag for distance from the main block. the last time to mark the end of sum Activities during no-working hours mer. The day ended with a mess party. were still mainly outside the base. Dur In his latest newsletter received last ing darkness the most popular activity month, Jim Newman reports that the was going to , about recreation room is back in full use after three miles away, to observe the many a number of major changes to make it and beautiful auroras. Craig Nickerson, more comfortable during the winter. whose job includes the auroral camera Carpet has been laid around the newly- project, had yet to spend a night alone covered pool table, and new linoleum in his remote hut at Arrival Heights. around the bar and darts area. Daylight activities included going out Other notable events included passing with a dog team under the control of the half-way mark of the party's stay ANTARCTIC on the ice, and its liking for American After the sun set for the last time this 10-pin bowling. More than half the winter at 12.45 p.m. local time on April New Zealanders are regular players in 24, there was a spell of unusually warm the bowling league at McMurdo Station. weather. The lowest temperature re corded was minus 20dcg F on May 4, and the highest plus 3deg F on May RUSSIAN LESSONS 9. No snow fell in the first week of last Ten-pin bowling, larts, providing pro month, and the wind did not exceed 48 grammes for their radio station, reading knots. Ice conditions were unchanged. Dr their weekly newspaper, and learning Barkov took three ice cores 300 to 400 Russian, are among the winter recrea yards out from the base of VXE-6 Hill. tions of the men at McMurdo Station. They were 22 to 23 inches thick. Their Russian teacher is a 50-year-old glaciologist from the Arctic and Antarc tic Institute in Leningrad, Dr Martsiss BARTER BUSINESS Barkov, who is the exchange scientist Stocks of potatoes were depleted when this season. the Americans had to help out their Dr Barkov is on his fourth visit to New Zealand neighbours. A new batch the Antarctic, and has spent two pre of potatoes opened at Scott Base was vious winters on the continent at the found to be frozen and rotting. Some Soviet stations, Mirny and Vostok. This bartering took place, and the New Zea winter he is studying ice cores from landers now have enough potatoes for the rest of the year. , the nearby Koettlitz Glacier, and the McMurdo Ice Shelf. In Towards the end of May a fall of half December and January he studied with an inch of snow was reported. The lowest French scientists snow accumulation at temperature recorded was minus 26deg the South Pole and , the ice F, and the highest plus 15deg F. A 43 dome in Wilkes Land on the line be knot gust of wind was recorded on May tween Dumont d'Urville and Vostok. 18. Dr Barkov's sea ice cores taken in Twice a week Dr Barkov conducts the third week of the month measured his Russian classes. He has also taught 26.1, 26.6, and 27 inches respectively. his American colleagues to like tradit ional Russian dishes like beef and cab bage soup, and pelmency, the equivalent ODD MONTH of ravioli. They, in turn, have taught March was an unusual month for the him to enjoy wild turkey and Italian 17 men at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. On March 22 the stat ion was in the grip of a minimum temp "SNOW SNAKES" erature of minus 87deg Fahrenheit — the coldest day of the year. Three days Temperatures at the station in April later the thermometer recorded minus were not severe. The lowest recorded 16dcg F — the highest March tempera was minus 28dcg Fahrenheit on April ture for 11 years. 13. During the month gusts of wind up to 60 knots were recorded. In the first week of May the Pole Station reported a minimum temperature Scientific work began on March 31 of minus 57deg F on May 6, and a when the Doppler station started its maximum temperature of 30deg F the satellite tracking programme. Earlier next day. On May 2 the wind reached Messrs L. Wigginton and B. Aldridge 44.9 miles an hour. had to cope with "snow snakes", the Antarctic equivalent of "bugs" in their Winter arrived with a vengence on equipment, and when they started to May 27. The temperature dropped to operate the Doppler station it began minum lOOdeg F, the lowest May temp to pick up broadcasts from the local erature recorded in the 18 years men radio station instead of satellite passes. have wintered at the Pole. ANTARCTIC ANARE REPORT Survey in Enderby Land Hampered by Weather Extensive cloud cover, whiteout, wind, and drift, all hampered the work of the Australian National Antarctic Research Expedition's survey party in Enderby Land last summer. The three Hughes 500 helicopters and the Pilatus Porter fixed wing aircraft which supported the party from its base at Knuckey Peaks about 450km west of Mawson, had good flying weather on only one day in three during operations. Nevertheless, the tellurometcr traverse was extended, magnetic and gravity measurements were taken, and geological and biological surveys made. Plans to establish by tractor train a line of glaciological markers from Sandercock Nunalaks to Knuckey Peaks had to be abandoned. The party was recalled because the Pilatus Porter aircraft was damaged in blizzard at Mawson. But glaciologists were able to obtain gravity and barometric readings along the Sandercock Nunataks-Mawson route. The 1974-75 season began differently rels, light-mantled and wandering alba last summer for the Antarctic Division. trosses, Royal penguins, and elephant Because of delays in the Northern and fur seals. Hemisphere, the Nella Dan would not have arrived in Melbourne until Decem Medical research involves the study of ber. After allowing time for the voyage human adaptation to a cold environ to and from Macquarie Island, this ment. A recorder continues in would have meant too late a start for operation. her Antarctic relief voyages. Renovations to sleeping quarters and Therefore the 21 members of the the ablutions area will be carried out, in addition to routine maintenance and Macquarie Island expedition, led by the officer-in-charge, Mr Ivan G. Hawthorn updating of the station's electrical sup (Geelong, Victoria), and a limited ply and plumbing facilities. amount of supplies, were flown to New The Nella Dan left Melbourne on her Zealand. The party joined the Nella first continental voyage of the season on Dan at Lyttelton. and sailed for Mac December 7. The official farewell for quarie Island on November 20. this expedition was given by the Mini ster for Science (Mr W. Morrison). On .ie work at Macquarie Island for board were some members of the 191 5 includes measurements in meteor- Mawson winter party, the 1975 Davis y, ozone, geo-magnctism and seis- party, and members of the Ender' y; and upper atmosphere research Land summer survey party, led by into aurora, micropulsations. diometry, Graeme McKinnon, the Antarctic ionospheric absorption and VLF emis Division's geographic officer. sions. In addition, biological studies arc be SUMMER TRAVERSE ing made into the interactions between Men from the 1974 Mawson expedi the rabbit, cat. rat, mice and small tion made a tractor train traverse during nesting bird populations, and general the spring to establish fuel and supply data is being obtained about giant pet depots for the Enderby Land summer ANTARCTIC

field operation from the base camp at and cartography are part of Knuckey Peaks. the programme at Casey, and also upper ; survey atmospheric physics and . Glaciological traverses will remeasure ;ists, a and resurvey previously established medical officer and a biologist from the points, and it is planned to establish Antarctic Division; two geologists from new ones. the Bureau of Mineral Resources, and ; five surveyors A study of ice sheet anisotropy has from the Division of National Mapping, been initiated this year. It involves Department of Minerals and Energy; observation of the polarisation of radio- some members of both the 1974 and echo sounding waves through the ice. 1975 Mawson expeditions; and seven During the voyage to Casey, a short members of a civil air component to fly visit was paid to Commonwealth Bay and maintain the helicopters and fixed- and a small team was put ashore to wing aircraft. assess what would be needed to restore While the Enderby Land survey party the historic hut which housed Sir Doug was in the field the Nella Dan continued las Mawson's Australasian Antarctic on to Davis where the annual change Expedition, 1911-14. over of men and equipment was carried On her last voyage of the season the out. She then called at Fremantle. Nella Dan left on January 25. The Western Australia. main tasks of this expedition were to complete the changeover at Mawson, This year's scientific programme at collect the members of the Enderby Davis includes meteorology, auroral Land summer party, and resupply Mac observations, riometry, magnetometer and micropulsation records, VLF emis quarie Island with the main bulk of sions, and absolute magnetic measure ments. The recording of routine scien tific data will be facilitated by the MAWSON ANNIVERSARY installation of central data logging The Nella Dan also called at Davis equipment. and Casey. This enabled the Antarctic Division's director, Dr Raymond I. Gar- NEW LABORATORY rod, who accompanied the expedition, to visit all four of Australia's southern A new laboratory has been built for most research stations. the programme which includes On February 13, had studies on elephant seals, giant petrels been in continuous operation for 21 and Weddell seals. The main project, years. The 21st birthday was celebrated however, will be the continued long- in appropriate style. Dr Garrod, th. term study of the of . 1975 Mawson party, most of the 1974 National research at Davis continues the Mawson party, some 1974 Davis .nem- study of human adaptation. bers and the Enderby Land party were There are 14 men in the Davis 1975 all present. expedition. The officer-in-charge is Mi- Mr L. E. (Lem) Macey, of North Syd Graeme C. Colback. of Thornlie. West ney, the officer-in-charge at Mawson for ern Australia. 1975, was also a member of the first The Casey relief expedition sailed team to winter at Mawson. from Melbourne on January 10 aboard There are 27 men wintering at Maw the Thala Dan. The winter party of 26 son this year. Their programme in at Casey, whose officer-in-charge is Mr cludes meteorology, geo-magnetism, seis Albert C. Jagger, of Lane Cove, New mology, auroral studies, VLF measure South Wales, includes one American. He ments (in conjunction with the Univer is taking measurements as part of the sity of Otago). ionospheric soundings, United States' programme of geodetic cosmic radiation, and biological observ mapping of the continent. ations. ANTARCTIC Australia's future role in Antarctic research Australia's role in Antarctic research, and the present and future administration of the scientific programme, have been the subject of controversy in recent months. The Government is in favour of continuing the Antarctic programme; the Minister for Science (Mr W. Morrison) has been highly critical of the way in which the annual budget of about $3.6 million is being spent, and of the results achieved. The Opposition, through its science This report on Australia's spokesman, has criticised the Govern Antarctic research programme has ment for inadequate administration of been summarised from Ministerial the Antarctic programme, and parti statements, Parliamentary reports, cularly for the decision — made early and newspaper reports and special last year —to transfer the Antarctic articles. The opinions expressed are Division of the Department of Science not those of the New Zealand to Hobart from Melbourne, where it Antarctic Society. has operated for more than 20 years. Scientists, inside and outside the divis ion, support the criticism. They say the decision has seriously affected the morale of the division, and will reduce the effec lia's Antarctic activities. In addition the tiveness of the Antarctic research pro Ministi gramme. entitled "Towards New Perspectives for While the Opposition agrees with the Australian Research in Antarctica." This move to Hobart, it does not approve Green Paper will be distributed in the of the way in which the Antarctic pro community to encourage individuals and gramme is being administered. The Lib institutions to come forward with opin eral and Country Parties consider that ions on Australia's role in Antarctic re Australia's long-term national interests search. require an active scientific programme in the Antarctic. Their joint policy on Last year's decision to transfer the national science and technology suggests Antarctic Division to Hobart did not that the most appropriate way to do so attract much public attention. Only is to establish an Australian Antarctic now have the implications of the move Institute. been discussed in detail. The Minister claims the move is a sound piece of CLOSING STATION decentralisation and administrative logic. There has been no public criticism Scientists say the decision was political, of the establishment last year of an and that the expertise and facilities in advisory committee on Antarctic pro Hobart are inadequate for the Austra grammes. Its report to the Minister for lian Antarctic programme. Science at the end of the year sug A site has been bought at Kingston, gested greater university participation in south of Hobart, and plans are in hand the Antarctic programme, the formation form a new multi-million dollar com of a planning committee, consideration plex to house Australia's entire Antarc of the closing of one Antarctic station, tic operation by 1978. Mr Morrison says and a review of the organisation of the that decentralisation is one of the main Antarctic Division, and the salaries of reasons for the move; he hopes also its professional staff. to develop co-ordination between the ANTARCTIC

Antarctic Division and the POLITICAL MOVE department of the University of Tas- 1ft 1n<:«; of Irev scientists Dr Law says the decision to move to Hobart was made for political reasons as a result of the move has left the against the advice of everybody who tion to the move is a repetition of argu had Antarctic service or administrative ments against the establishment of Can experience. He says emphatically that berra. the Antarctic Division cannot function efficiently from Hobart. One of the most outspoken critics of The report of the advisory committee the changes proposed has been Dr Phillip on Antarctic programmes will be a very Law, who was director of the Antarctic valuable guide for developing future Division from 1949 until 1966, when he scientific programmes, according to Dr resigned to become head of the Vic Law. But he says it does not bear upon toria Institute of Colleges. He says that the question of matters of administra the division is suffering from a deep tion in the Antarctic Division in relation malaise, a sickness bred over a number to central departmental control from of years from frustration, bureaucratic Canberra. procedures, and lack of department sym Dr Law believes that the only really pathy and understanding. effective way to run an Antarctic re During his 18 years as director Dr search programme is to set up an Antarc Law built up a team of highly experi tic Institute responsible to the Minister enced, understanding, and dedicated for Science but not through his de men. Officers of the division made visits partment. The director of such an in to the Antarctic to acquire knowledge stitute should have the responsibility of of its environment, and the needs of the running it, and be given a board of men at the stations on the continent. governors to control the overall opera-

MORE DELAYS When Dr Law resigned in 1966 the Scott Base to position of director of the Antarctic Div ision was not filled for nearly four politics years. He says that over this period most of the autonomy he had guarded for A former leader at Scott Base will be 18 years was whittled away. More and one of the three opponents the New more matters had to be referred to Can Zealand Prime Minister (Mr W. E. berra for approval, the delays grew, and Rowling) will face in the contest for the frustrations increased. his Tasman seat at the general election this year. Mr Adrian Hayter, leader in After Dr Law's resignation the div the 1964-65 season, has announced he ision was moved from the then Depart will be an independent candidate. ment of External Affairs to the De partment of Supply. Later it was moved Mr Hayter was a British Army officer again to the Department of Education for 15 years, and served in India, Burma, and Science, and when Labour came to Malaya, and on the North-West Frontier. power it was included in the new De He resigned his commission in 1950 partment of Science. Parallel with the and sailed a 32ft yawl, Sheila II, single- erosion of the division's independence, handed from England to New Zealand. there has been a weakening of finan Between 1960 and 1962 he repeated the cial strength. Annual appropriations have voyage by a different route. remained virtually static, and inflation After his service at Scott Base Mr has taken a growing percentage of the Hayter wrote a record of his experiences, budget. "The Year of the Quiet Sun." ANTARCTIC

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Dogs and men rest on the approach to the crevassed margin of the Crary Ice Rise. Last December two New Zealand scientists, Dr P. J. Barrett and Mr R. D. Powell, of the Victoria University of Wellington expedition, discovered sea water beneath the Ross Ice Shelf in a rift on the Crary Ice Rise 770 kilometres from the South Pole. Here the ice is about 1500ft thick. Hundreds seek jobs in Antarctic Several hundred men—and 15 women, ing Britain, Canada, Australia, and the mostly scientists—want to work in the United States. There are also about a Antarctic next season with the New dozen from mountains in Switzerland or Zealand research programme. Many ap of Swiss descent. plications have been received from over There has been intense interest for seas by the Antarctic Division, Depart some jobs, and one position has at ment of Scientific and Industrial tracted 100 applicants. Many of the Research, and some applicants are pre a p p l i c a n t s w a n t t o w o r k a s fi e l d pared to travel 12,000 miles at their own assistants. expense to be interviewed, and take a Overseas applicants who travel to chance on being selected. New Zealand for interviews need not be About 130 to 140 men and women too pessimistic. Last year three men, in will go south from New Zealand to cluding one from Britain and one from work in the Antarctic next season. They Canada, came to New Zealand in the will be selected from a record number of hope of obtaining a job. The Canadian applicants. About 10 per cent of the was successful; the Englishman was applications are from overseas, includ unlucky. ANTARCTIC

BRITISH SURVEY NEWS Major discoveries made in glaciological programme Discoveries of major geological interest, particularly on Alexander Island, were made during the 's glaciological pro gramme last season. The continuation of Dr Charles Swithinbank's programme covered an area from the South Shetlands to the Ellsworth Mountains, and combined radio echo-sounding and ice core drilling. This programme, which was carried butbut the the sub-icesub-ice coastlinecoastline ofof thethe south south- out during the Survey's very successful westernwestern FilchnerFilchner IceIce ShelfShelf was located field season, concentrated mainly on theand and found found to to be be more more than than 100 km. southern part of the Antarctic Penin- fromfrom the the position position indicated indicated on on thethe latest sula. Radio echo-sounding was carried maps.maps. out from one of the Survey's two Twin The -phc aircraft aircraft were were flown flown back back to Otter' aircraft, and ice core drilling was CanadaCanada at at thethe beginningbeginning ofof March and done at selected points over the whole oncone js isnow now jn in Greenland Greenland forfor fivefive weeks, area from the South Shetlands to the assistingassisting in in an an ice ice cap cap survey survey for the Ellsworth Mountains (62deg to 80deg S). UnitedUnited States States National National ScienceScience Founda-Founda Thanks to an extraordinary run of tion.tion. good weather, flights were made on 32 GeologistsGeologists and and geomorphologists geomorphologists also days out of the 44-day season, averaging nacihad a a vcry very gooci good season.season. ThoseThose at South 6 to 7 hours a day, and the distance cov- GeorgiaGeorgia remainedremained inin thethe field until the ered exceeded the combined total of RoyalRoyal Research Research Ship Ship Bransfield's Bransfield's last the three previous echo-sounding sea- visit vjsit at at the the end end of of April. April. The geogeo- morphologists, who were from Aber Coverage of new areas was made deen University, were continuing work possible by the supply of extra fuel by started some years ago by their leader, the United States Antarctic Research Dr Chalmers Clapperton, formerly of Programme at and the the Survey. Geologists and geophysi- Instituto Antartico Argentino at Mati- cists were also active on a number of enzo and Marambio Stations. An Ar the South Shetland Islands, as part of gentine glaciologist accompanied the air a long-term investigation of the Scotia party. Arc. Soundings of all ice shelves and ice rises in Latitude 66deg/73degS were GRAVITY WAVES completed, together with plateau sound In the Antarctic Peninsula area H.F. ings in Latitudes 66deg/75degS. Doppler techniques for monitoring Rock samples were collected for the gravity waves at ionospheric levels were first time from the only known nunatak successfully tested, in preparation for in the key area between the base of the the international magetosphere study Antarctic Peninsula and the Ellsworth scheduled for 1977-78. This involved Mountains. These are now being ana equipment at the Adelaide Island and lysed. Argentine Islands bases, at Palmer Sta tion and on board the Bransfield. The ICE DEPTH experiment will be extended to the Ice depth sounding at Siple Station Argentine Almirante Brown Station next for the Americans failed to find bottom, ANTARCTIC

ECHO-SOUNDING ary 23, was inspected and found to be A fourth season of airborne radio in good order, ready for use by future echo-sounding in Antarctica was con summer parties. ducted by the Scott Polar Research Insti tute in logistic collaboration with the MAN INJURED United States National Science Founda Returning north in early April, the tion's Office of Polar Programmes and Bransfield picked up the South Shet this year, for the first time, with the lands field parties and returned to the Technical University of Denmark. New Falklands. News was then received that 60 MHz and 300 MHz radio echo sys a member of the Argentine Islands base tems, built by the T.U.D. were operated had been injured while ski-ing. alongside the S.P.R.I. 60 MHz system, The Bransfield had to return south to modified this season to record maximum pick the man up before making a final echo strengths from ice-water and ice- call at Signy Island and South Georgia rock interfaces. at the end of the month. She reached Fifty missions were flown, in a speci Southampton at the end of last month. ally configured United States Navy Her In the Marguerite Bay area, the com cules, representing 332 flying hours and pletion of the field work, the closure equivalent to about 135,000 km. of pro of base, and the filing. Principal areas of investigation change to summer-only field pro included Marie Byrd Land, George V grammes, has accelerated the change Coast and Adelie Land, Dome C of the over from dog ieams to vehicles. It central East Antarctic ice-sheet, the had become impossible to maintain the Polar Plateau near the South Pole, and large dog population and, to everyone's adjacent sectors of the Transantarctic sorrow, 100 animals had to be destroyed. Mountains, and the Ross Ice Shelf. A small stock were, however, sent to SHIP MOVEMENTS Adelaide Island. A few will be shipped The Royal Research Ship John Bis to the United Kingdom for breeding. coe completed the relief of Adelaide Island and picked up the summer field GRYTVIKEN STATION parties from the area in early March. Dangerous explosives at the old She then returned to the United King Grytviken whaling station in South dom by way of the Falkland Islands Georgia were successfully dealt with by and Montevideo, and arrived at South naval experts during last summer. They ampton on April 18. had been a source of anxiety for some time as they had become very unstable, Meanwhile, after relieving Halley """ ytwv, uiH-umivmauij in..ll lilt Dilliail Bay, the R.R.S. Bransfield returned to the South Orkney Islands. Both the base on King Edward Point. outward and return journeys were com At Signy Island, two biologists diving paratively ice-free and it was possible to reported a close encounter with a leo run parallel magnetometer traverses pard seal and a bottle-nosed whale. They across the . did not wait to find out who was chas The Bransfield then made a mid-sea ing whom, especially as another biolo son visit to Mar del Plata where the gist had just been badly bitten by an director and senior staff of the Instituto elephant seal on land. Antarctico Argentino were welcomed on NEW BUILDING board. She then visited field parties in Work on the new B.A.S. building at the South Shetland Islands. Cambridge is progessing. One of the On her way down the west coast of three wings is now structurally com the Antarctic Peninsula the Bransfield plete, and a second is well-advanced. called at Palmer and Almirante Brown The third wing and store/garage are Stations before making a final visit to also taking shape. The complex should Adelaide Island. The Stonington Island be ready for occupation in about a base which had been closed on Febru year's time. ANTARCTIC

SOUTH AFRICA Summer research work by parties from Grunehogna Heavy vehicles designed for the use of the 16th South African National Antarctic Expedtion (SANAE 16) this season had to be brought back to Cape Town by the relief ship RSA at the end of February. When the RSA arrived off Sanae Base with the 21 men of the expedition, led by Mr E. P. Morkcl, the wall of the Fimbul Ice Shelf was found to be too high for the vehicles to be offloaded. The rest of the cargo was brought ashore, the take-over ran smoothly, and the SANAE 15 team returned to Cape Town on March 1. The field programme for 1975 will month later and started work immedi consist only of geological work in the ately. Kirwanvcggcn, which is some 200km Geologically the area consists of pre south of Grunehogna, the geological base dominantly high-grade metamorphics— in the Ahlmann Ridge mountain range. gneisses, schists, and migmatites showing All the geophysical and radio echo- multiple-phase folding. The area was sounding equipment was returned to mapped in some detail, and about a ton South Africa at the beginning of the of samples for petrological, geochrono- year for overhaul and calibration. No logical, geochemical, and palaeomagnetic geophysical or glaciological field work purposes was collected. will then be done. Because of problems with the radio Last year a field team of six men echo sounding equipment, the geophysi- wintered at Grunehogna (72deg 02min cal-glaciological party did not get away S/02dcg48min W) which is about 215km from Grunehogna before early October. inland from Sanae Base. This team man This party—surveyor, electronics techni aged to complete its year's work success cian, and mechanic—made a 500km fully only through consistent persever traverse through the Ahlmann Ridge ance. The team consisted of two geolo area. gists, a surveyor, an electronics tech Continuous radio echo-sounding was nician who operated the radio echo- done; gravity and the earth's sounder, and two mechanics. field were measured at 3km intervals; and After careful preparation the team left glaciological observations, such as des Sanae Base in the middle of February cription of snow stratigraphy, were made. and arrived safely at Grunehogna early A stake line for ice-flow measurements in March. In the next six weeks the men was also established and surveyed across prepared for the coming winter, and did the mouth of the Viddalen, one of the geological work such as collecting large tributary glaciers of the Jutulstrau- palacomagnctic samples in the mountains men, the major ice stream in the area. around the base. A start was also made on the surveying of glaciological ice-flow DEPOTS RESTOCKED markers and strain networks. Both field parties returned to Grune-

—left the base in the middle of August. The party arrived at its working area at Snow accumulation measurement was Neumayerskarvet in the Kirwanvcggcn a continued at Sanae throughout the year, ANTARCTIC

and a three-component, short period detector at Sanae was enlarged from one seismography station was operated. In to four BP28 neutron counters of the November a well-planned operation for Chalk River design. The consequent the replenishment of emergency depots fourfold increase in counting rate re was executed. duced the statistical fluctuations consider The route to Grunehogna essentially ably. The data from the single counter goes across a treacherous crevasse area which operated since 1971 at Sanae which was crossed numerous times with showed that the moderated neutron de out detrimental results. At the same time tector is more sensitive to primary cos a depot between Grunehogna and Borga mic ray particles of lower energy than Base (72deg 50min S/03deg 48min W), the neutron monitor. which is 350km south of Sanae, was The change in rigidity dependence

returning geological team. mosphere above Sanae is followed in UPPER AIR PHYSICS time by comparing the intensity varia tions recorded by the moderated neutron The Antarctic geomagnetic and aurora detector and the neutron monitor. This programme of the department of physics, is of particular interest for rigidities Potchefstroom University, is responsible above the atmospheric cut off (about 1 for recording the geomagnetic field at GV for protons). Sanae and Marion Island. In addition photographic and photometric recording Two new riometers were put into oper of aurora is carried out at Sanae. ation in August, 1974, at Sanae. They An automatic compensating magneto replaced the old type of 30 MHz no- meter and feature fast response times of meter at Sanae records the magnetic field less than one second and very low in analogue form on a chart recorder and in digital form at one-minute intervals on power consumption. Their purpose is to observe aurora pulsations, and they could punched paper tape. At Sanae and Marion Island normal run La Cour possibly be used in a field station in the variometer systems are operated; at future. Sanae this serves as a standby for the automatic system. At both stations BALLOON LAUNCHENGS quartz horizontal magnetometers (QHM), Several of the light-weight geigcr zero balance magnetometers (BMZ), and counter balloon instruments were a declinometer (Sanae only), are used for launched during the last months of 1974. baseline control. Half were launched during quiet mag At present a SCAR pattern all-sky netic activity while others were launched camera is used for auroral photography. during active periods, detecting X-rays However, in 1976, this will be replaced from precipitating electrons. by a system consisting essentially of a Nikon 35mm camera fitted with fish-eye A new ultra light-weight instrument lens and motor drive. using latest technology and operating at 439 MHz transmitting frequency was de For the last two years a photometer for recording the total intensity and pulsa veloped in 1974. This instrument will be tions of the 4278 A N2+ line has been in launched with smaller balloons. It is ex operation. Recordings are made at three pected to produce better resuts in 1975 fixed elevations in the magnetic meridian. because the balloons can also be launched As from this year photometric work will in strong winds. be supplemented by an HB tilting filter A noteworthy change in the iono meridian scanning photometer for the spheric programme (conducted by study of proton aurora. Rhodes University, of Grahamstown) is that the Cossor model 7262 C pulse iono- COSMIC RAYS sonde was replaced by a Barry research Early in 1974 the moderated neutron VOS 1 vertical/oblique chirp-sounder. ANTARCTIC Changes in map of Antarctica A new map of Antarctica, which identify them more clearly by name and appears in this issue, has been pre nation. pared to show the changes that have In the last six years some bases have taken place since the map it replaces been closed, and several new ones have was first printed six years ago. The been established. The United States now 1969 map showed the boundaries of ter has only two inland bases, and the ritorial claims by several nations, the Soviet Union has added two more new map, in keeping with the terms of coastal bases. Two nations, and the Antarctic Treaty, gives no recogni Belgium, which were among the 12 sig tion to any claims. natories to the Antarctic Treaty, no Antarctica was shown on the old map longer have bases in Antarctica. in relation to Australia and New Zea Some readers of "Antarctica" may land. The removal of these two coun wonder why the Antarctica Continent tries has enabled the cartographer to has now been turned upside down. show in greater detail the bases in the Here it seems only natural to look south area of the Antarctic Peninsula, and to from New Zealand.

Polar Programme New Ice Wharf Director Needed

A veteran Antarctic scientist who be Antarctica's man-made iceberg, which gan his work there by man-hauling a has served successfully as an improved sledge around the shores of McMurdo wharf in for United Sound in 1959 has been appointed head State supply ships and an oil tanker, of the United States National Science has broken up and drifted into Mc Foundation's Office of Polar Pro Murdo Sound. Now members of the grammes. Dr Robert Rutford, a 42- winter party at McMurdo Station are year-old geologist at the University of seeking official permission to build a Nebraska, was, until his appointment, new ice-shelf in readiness for the director of the Ross Ice Shelf Project, arrival of the ships next season. the international research project de signed to find out more about the shelf. Last month the ice wharf broke into three large chunks, 10ft to 16ft apart, Dr Rutford gained his doctorate at but held together by wire ropes. The the University of Minnesota, where he wharf was roped together last summer also served as a research assistant and when cracks first appeared in the struc research fellow. He was leader of the ture, which is 600ft long, 150ft wide, university's reearch team to the Antarc and 25ft thick. tic in 1963, after having taken part in two previous Antarctic expeditions. He Chief Petty Officer J. Wallace, who became an assistant professor of geology supervised the construction of the first at the University of South Dakota in wharf, believes that with a crew of six 1967, and associate professor in 1970. there is no reason why another arti From 1969 until he went to the Uni ficial iceberg cannot be built. All the versity of Nebraska in 1972, he was materials necessary for construction — chairman of the department of geology, miles of plastic "sausages", and six and later the department of geology and small petrol-driven pumps, are already at physics. McMurdo Station. ANTARCTIC

Strung out along the desolate and flat polar landscape, the buildings of the new Antarctic city. This miniature city, which took four years to build, has a winter

DAMAGED AIRCRAFT WILL BE SALVAGED IN WILKES LAND Plans to salvage two Hercules ski- off, and another, which picked up the equipped aircraft damaged in take-off passengers and crew, was also damaged accidents on January 15 near Dome C, when its nose ski collapsed. an ice dome in Wilkes Land, are being made by the United States Navy's Present plans are for the salvage camp Antarctic support force. In the coming and skiway to be built by public works staff of the National Science Founda season it is intended to repair the two tion. The Lockheed company, which aircraft — worth about $17 million — makes the Hercules at Marietta, Georgia, at Dome C and fly them back to New will be assisted by the National Science Zealand or the United States for a com Foundation, the Navy's VXE-6 Squad plete overhaul. ron, and the Naval Air Systems Com A salvage camp and a skiway will mand, to make the necessary repairs to have to be built at Dome C for the the damaged aircraft. salvage operation. Men, supplies, and equipment, will probably be flown to A United States Navy helicopter pilot the area from McMurdo Station, 683 will return to the Antarctic next sea miles away. Because of the nature of the son after an absence of 20 years. Com terrain it had been suggested earlier that mander Gerald L. Glade, who has been a French party might make a traverse assigned as executive officer and deputy from Dumont d'Urville to Dome C to commander, United States naval sup prepare the skiway so that aircraft from port force, was in charge of a heli McMurdo Station could operate more copter squadron detachment in Antarc safely. tica between 1955 and 1957. The two aircraft were damaged in an Commander Glade replaces Com air support operation for French glacio mander Robert C. Balchunas, who has logical research in last been transferred to duty as executive season ("Antarctic," March, 1975). Late officer of the Naval Aviation Engineer last year a camp was established at ing Command, Lakchurst, New Jersey. Dome C, and French, American, and He is a graduate of the University of Russian scientists were flown there on Utah, where he was a nationally ranked December 6 to collect shallow snow tennis player, and has a degree in inter samples. The Hercules sent to pick up national relations from the United States the field party was damaged during take Naval Post-graduate School. ANTARCTIC

kmundsen-Scott South Pole Station rise above the ice like the beginnings of an opulation of 17 men. U.S. Navy Photo ICEBREAKER POLAR STAR MAY WORK IN ANTARCTIC WATERS The United States Coast Guard's newest icebreaker Polar Star is likely to be working in Antarctic waters during the research season next summer. First of the new Polar class icebreakers, the Polar Star is expected to be ready for delivery to the Coast Guard by the end of August. Her sister ship, Polar Sea, is also under construction at the Lock heed Shipbuilding and Construction Company's yards in Seattle, Washing-

After builders' trials next month, the down through it, making the best use of 12,000-ton Polar Star will make her first gravity. Her construction is rugged. She shakedown cruise about October in the has an ice belt of special low tempera waters off the coast of the State of ture steel If inches thick at her bow and Washington. Her first test in the ice will stern U inches thick amidships. Her be in the Rand Straits area of the Ber three propellers are designed to mill ice ing Sea. After a survey in Seattle her like the blades of a food blender. first operational mission is planned for the west Arctic. Included in the Polar Star's modern equipment are four computers—one to In fast ice a Wind class icebreaker like monitor engineering machinery, one for those used in Antarctic operations can processing oceanographic data, and two break through using the "back and ram" for navigational and tracking purposes. method. The Polar Star, however, has These will make it possible to cut down been designed to crack the ice while on the number of men needed to run moving forward at three knots. She has the 399ft vessel. ample power for the task. Her diesel- electric engines can produce up to 18,000 A conning station more than 100ft shaft horsepower for cruising and light above the water-line will extend the icebreaking, and her gas turbine engines vision of officers seeking the best route can produce 60,000 shaft horsepower. through concentrated icefields. To help offset the notorious icebraker roll in the The Polar Star's bow design will en open sea the ship has a passive roll able her to ride up on the ice and break stabilising system. ANTARCTIC Cold step for Australian women

Australian women scientists will be women will be given an equal chance to allowed to work at one Antarctic base as do these jobs. soon as facilities have been constructed Women scientists have worked at for them. But the change in policy an Macquarie Island before—two biologists nounced by the Minister of Science (Mr were there in the summer a few seasons Morrison) as a contribution to Inter ago. But the announcement this month national Women's Year, restricts women will bring women into the Australian to Macquarie Island, one of the minor Antarctic programme. bases, and for four months in summer, Last season three New Zealand women mainland bases of Davis, Mawson, worked at , on Ross Island, 1 Casey, will still be all-male pre and a woman librarian worked at Scott serves. Base. The United States had eight women scientists and assistants working Not all of the 20 men at Macquarie directly with scientific projects, the Navy Island are scientists. Doctors, weather had three women officers, and four observers, drivers, mechanics, and cooks women were employed at McMurdo are all employed at the base. In future Station by civilian contractors.

Ashes scattered at North Pole

In 1959 the ashes of Sir Hubert Wil Imperial Expedition of 1920-22 led by kins, one of the pioneers in Arctic and J. L. Cope, who had been a member of Antarctic exploration and photography, the in Shackleton's were scattered at the North Pole from 1914-16 expedition. the United States submarine Skate. This was an appropriate tribute to a great When Wilkins abandoned this expedi adventurer who made the first sub tion and returned to England, he was marine trip under the Arctic ice in appointed naturalist in the Shackleton- 1931. Rowett Quest expedition of 1921-22. Then in 1928 he led an expedition to Now the ashes of his widow, Lady Graham Land, and made the first ex Suzanne Wilkins. have been scattered at tended flight in the Antarctic—600 miles the North Pole. This was done recently south from —on by the commanding officer of the Ameri December 20. An experimental flight on can nuclear attack submarine Bluefish. November 16 was actually the first ever which was the first United States Antarc made in Antarctica. tic Fleet submarine to surface at the Pole since 1970. After his exploration of the waters between the North Pole and the Cana Sir Hubert Wilkins, who died in 1958, dian Arctic in the submarine Nautilus, had his first polar experience with Wilkins returned to the Antarctic. Be Stefansson's expedition to the Canadian tween 1933 and 1939 he accompanied Arctic in 1913. Most of his polar ex Lincoln Ellsworth on four expeditions. perience, however, was gained in the His last visit to the Antarctic was in Antarctic. He went south for the first 1957 as an adviser to the United States time as second-in-command of the abor Army on Arctic and Antarctic clothing tive and rather grandly named British and survival problems. ANTARCTIC Anton left his overcoat behind at When Anton Omelchenko went home after his first winter in the Antarctic he left his overcoat behind in Scott's hut at Cape Evans. It remained there a long time — 63 years, to be exact. In December last year the Russian groom's coat, marked with the name Anton, was found by two caretakers from the New Zealand Antarctic Society who spent several weeks at and Cape Evans. Archaelogy has become one of the Zealand beer included in the expedi duties of the caretakers who have been tion's supplies. going south each summer to care for Identification of some of these relics the three historic huts on Ross Island, was not always easy after they had which are maintained by the Antarctic been buried in the ice for so long. Anton Division, Department of Scientific and Omelchenko's overcoat was easily identi Industrial Research. Each summer since fied — the name Anton was on the 1969 the caretakers have searched pat collar But who owned the rust-stained iently and carefully in the ice-encoated shirt, made, according to the label, by debris of the huts for material to fill "A. W. Gamage Ltd, 128 Holburn, mak gaps in the story of how men lived and ers of Viaduct shirts?" worked in the Antarctic before the days of radio, television, films, and electric Anton Lukich Omelchenko, owner of the 65-year-old coat, is mentioned sev lights. eral times by Scott in his story of the In the 1973-74 summer the caretakers, last expedition. His devoted care of the Messrs L. E. Kerr and G. E. Madgwick, ponies under the direction of Oates is reported that a wealth of undiscovered praised; little is said about the man expedition relics might still be found in himself. the stable areas of the huts, both at Cape Royds and Cape Evans. Last NOTED JOCKEY season's caretakers, Messrs K. Smith, Scott refers to Anton and his fellow of the Canterbury branch of the Antarc countryman, Demitri Gerof, who was tic Society, and G. D. Sylvester, of the the dog driver, as boys. But Anton was Wellington branch, confirmed this belief. 27 and Demitri 22 when they went They uncovered many more relics — south. Anton is described as a groom aided by the mild season — inside and or stableman — he was actually a noted outside the huts, and particularly in the jockey in Russia and Europe before stable areas. he met Scott's brother-in-law, Wilfred Bruce, in Vladivostok in 1909, and SPARE WHEEL helped him to buy the expedition's Man- More discoveries were made outside churian ponies. the huts last season because there was Various reasons have been given for scarcely any snow or ice at the time Anton's return home after his first of the caretakers' visit. Pony Lake, at winter. Cherry-Garrard says his work Cape Royds, was almost completely free with the ponies was done. In his Terra of ice, and yielded all kinds of items Nova diary, however, Wilson says that from a spare wooden wheel belonging the Russian had not been happy as he to Shackleton's Arrol-Johnston motor was terribly superstitious and the winter car — the first in Antarctica — to the darkness got on his nerves. He wanted remains of one of the barrels of New to return, and Scott felt it was best. ANTARCTIC

Anton fought in the First World War, suring 21ft 6in by 13ft 4in wide a and then joined the Red Army. He length of 2in manilla rope and an later helped to set up a collective farm unidentified wooden strut. This was in his birthplace, Bat'ki, and was killed retrieved near the Arrival Bay entrance by a lightning stroke in 1932. to the penguin rookery below Flagstaff Point, and may have come from the RICH SOURCE Nimrod or the Aurora. Pony Lake was the richest source of When Messrs Smith and Sylvester relics at Cape Royds, but none were of reached Cape Evans they concentrated a personal nature. Snow boots and on clearing ice and permafrost from the socks were retrieved from the perma stables, and snow from the food annex frost in the stable area of Shackleton's on the south side of the hut. Their task hut. Two wooden sledge runners with was made easier because of the mild steel attachments were dragged from the weather, and in the centre stable they the lake, and arc believed to belong to were able to remove the ice to floor the rear of Shackleton's motor tractor. level. Also found in the lake were a wooden wheel and a collection of wooden blocks MULES' NAMES belonging to the Arrol-Johnston motor car. During their excavations in the stable they found several items of harness, a Several more green wine bottles were pony snow shoe, and a feed box. Inside recovered from both Pony Lake and the the box was part of a copy of "The stable area. They were added to the col Times" of August 25, 1911. Because of lection in the pantry area of the hut the amount of ice removed, three names New Zealand beer in the Nimrod's stencilled on the back walls of the stables cargo proved to have been brewed in were revealed. Dunedin. Iron hoops and barrel staves These names were Abdullah, Gulab were recovered from Pony Lake and and Begum, three of the seven mules '"*«.rby mud; one stave still has a steel given to the expedition by the Indian ._.ig marked: "J. Speight and Co., Government, and sent south for use Dunedin." in the second season. Oates had sug Other items found in the lake or the gested that mules might be a better form mud included a steel spike and dog of transport on the Barrier than ponies. chain; a bamboo-handled shovel, four The other four were Lai Khan, Ranee, steel sledge runners, enamel cooking Pyarec, and Khan Sahib. dishes, soda syphon bulbs, and a stone After the winter of 1912 the mules jar in three pieces. These matched the carried loads from Cape Evans to Hut top piece already in the hut. Point. Then they were used by the search party which found the bodies of SHUTTER FOUND Scott and his companions. Two of the All the windows of Shackleton's hut seven had to be shot on the return can now be closed. A missing shutter— journey because they refused all food, the original—was found in the Pony and were in very bad condition. They Lake area and placed in position by were used as food for the two dog teams. Messrs Smith and Sylvester. They spent The remaining five were shot before the much time in the stable area, and they expedition returned to New Zealand. were able to excavate down to a wooden Relics of Scott's motor transport, beam which appeared to be at floor which was not as successful as expected level. In the process they freed several were recovered from an area near the boxes of snow boots from the perma petrol dump and dog lines south-west frost, and also discovered pony harness of the hut. They were a collection of and several socks. steel plates, bolts, and wooden cleats — One of the most interesting discov apparently fittings from one of the eries was a portion of ship's sail mea motor sledges. 3 o- " n o cr -• Mm o"3ao>u"-a-g£ "O o> o w 5d'*a*BH*3offl Oo--o°oc25- 3 ^ Bn S~ Q p « £ &?" 3 3 P o - Sir- p "Z.JZ- 7? ZT

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c. -j-. c, C- D. Q. i" ANTARCTIC THEY CAME BACK TO LYTTELTON BY BADEN NORRIS Since the Discovery arrived on November 29, 1901, the small port of Lyttelton has been a point of departure for most Antarctic expeditions to the Ross Sea area. And even today United States icebreakers and supply ships depart from Lyttelton for McMurdo Sound each season as they have done for the last 20 years. Lyttelton has a small population of John B. Partridge was the other Lyt- 3500 to 4000, and most of its work force telton man who went south in the Morn- is drawn from Christchurch on the ing as a seaman. He was discharged at other side of the Port Hills. But, sur- Lyttelton on June 7, 1904. In 1907 he prisingly, it has been both cradle and went south again in Shackleton's Nim- rcfuge for a number of Antarcticans rod. Then he joined the Lyttelton Har- over the last 70 years. bour Board as a fireman on the dredge Some were Lyttelton-born, others Te W,haka' afnd served aboard her until came from England, Scotland, Ireland, l11s rctlrernent- and Australia. Most of them were sea men, one was a scientist. Several came THREE VOYAGES back from the Antarctic and chose Lyt- Charles Williams served as an able telton as their home and place of work. seaman on all three Antarctic voyages Thus the port become one of the few of the Terra Nova, and was the third places where men from all the expe- Lyttelton-born seafarer to go south, ditions of the Heroic Age could be After his return he served with distinc- seen working together. tion in the Royal Navy during the First World War. He died soon after his re- MORNING'S CREW lUrn( !° , civi,ia" !ife. whe" lthe ™U coastal steamer Tainui was destroyed by Although no Lyttelton-born man went fire off the North Canterbury coast in south in the Discovery, two were mem- 1919. bers of the crew of the relief ship Morn- Erjc Norman Webb, who was born mg. Arthur Beaumont served as an able and educated in Lyttelton, was a 22-ycar- seaman. He joined the ship at Lyttelton 0id Canterbury University College for the second voyage on September 21, graduate when he was appointed chief 1903, and took his discharge at Ply- magnctician to Sir 's mouth on October 18. 1904. He came Australasian Antarctic Expedition in back to live in Lyttelton in 1911, and 1911. He was a member of the main served as a hulk master and waterside basc party on Cape Denison in Corn- worker, monwealth Bay, Adelie Land, and made In 1916 Arthur answered the call of a detailed survey of terrestrial magnetic the sea again. Some years later he forcc lo Wlthin 50 miles oE thc South swallowed the anchor finally when he Magnetic Pole, thus providing the first joined the Lyttelton Harbour Board as Precise location of the pole, a crane driver. He died at Diamond In thc First World War Eric Webb Harbour across the water in February. served in Egypt and France with the 1957. Australian Imncrial Forces. He was ANTARCTIC awarded the Distinguished Service Order The party found 17 eggs, but experi and the Military Cross, and was men enced very low temperatures — minus tioned in dispatches. Later he became 60 to 62dcg Fahrenheit. Blissett was the a world authority on hydro-electric chief sufferer — one side of his face power development. He now lives in was very severely frostbitten. retirement in North Wales. Blissett spent 16 years in the Royal Thomas Meyrick is believed to be the Marine Light Infantry. He served in fifth Lyttelton man to go south. He the First World War, and was in the served aboard the Nimrod in 1908, but prison service before and after the war. little is known of him. Then he settled in New Zealand.

NOT KNIGHTED MANY STORIES In the sledging diary he kept on the It is a great pity that the stories southern journey with Wilson and Harry Blissett could tell were never re Shackleton in 1902-1903 Scott wrote on corded. He was a hard man with a January 28, 1903: All the news seems rough tongue at times, but once he had to be good . . . Blissett has discovered warmed to you he was a mine of inform an Emperor penguin's egg and his mess ation about his Antarctic experiences. mates expected him to be knighted." ) at Once, when he was 76, Harry Blissett was interviewed on his birthday as one one of the depots on the return to Hut of the few remaining Discovery vet Point. erans. He recalled then how he and Lance Corporal A. H. Blissett, Royal Frank Plumley, one of the Discovery's Marine Light Infantry, was not knighted, stokers, went looking for penguins' but he has a place in Antarctic history eggs. as the first man to find an Emperor Between them the pair ate 34 eggs. penguin's egg. And Harry Blissett also Harry Blissett's score was 15 — all raw has a place in Lytlelton's history — he — and the egg hunt earned him another was a waterside worker at the port for dose of frostbite. many years, although he lived at Heath- cote on the other side of the Port Hills. Harry Blissett believed that he was one of the few members of the expedi Blissett was a Lincolnshire man, and he was 23 when he volunteered to go to tion who did not suffer from scurvy. He the Antarctic with the Discovery expe attributed this to a good constitution, and the large amount of pickles he ate. dition. He went south as a steward but he and his fellow private, Gilbert Scott, NIMROD MEN did much more than act as stewards. After Shackleton's 1907-1909 expedi FIRST EGG tion a father and stepson, Hugh During his two years in the Antarctic McGowan and Felix Rooney, of the Blissett made two sledging journeys to engine-room staff of thc Nimrod, settled . On the first, led by Lieu in Lyttelton. The family still treasure tenant Charles Royds, he took a look at a letter from Lady Shackleton in which the spot where the Emperor penguins she expressed her delight at two mem had reared their young. Then he called bers of one family serving in her hus Royds's attention to a rounded object band's expedition. almost buried in the snow, which on Hugh McGowan worked as an engin being dug out, proved to be an egg — eer for the Lyttelton Harbour Board. the first that had been found. Felix Rooney, born in Glasgow, was Because of Blissctt's discovery Royds 21 when he went south in thc Nimrod. returned to Cape Crozier in the spring After the Nimrod returned to New of 1903. Wilson was with him, and Zealand Rooney served in coastal and Blissett was one of four lower deck trans-Tasman ships. He served with the men in the party which went to the 1st N.Z.E.F. in the First World War. rookery to bring back more eggs. and then joined the Union Steam Ship ANTARCTIC

Company's bunkering staff. After 25 waterside worker and seaman. He served years with the company he retired in in many New Zealand ships between 1946 to live in Lyttelton. Later he lived 1920 and 1962, and was well known as in Wellington, and died in 1965. a member of thc crew of the inter- The tracing of these two men was island steamer express ships Rangatira complicated by the presence of another and Wahine in thc 1930s and 1940s. Rooney on the crew list of the Nimrod. Flags were at half-mast in Lyttelton But J. Rooney did not make a polar when Mortimer McCarthy died after an voyage. He joined the Nimrod in Lyttel accident in his home there on August 4, ton in 1909 for the voyage to England, 1967. He was 89, and his seafaring and was discharged at Sydney on May career ended only when he was 84. In 1 of that year. 1963 he went back to thc Antarctic with two Terra Nova shipmates, W. Burton MOST EXPERIENCED and W. McDonald, as the guests of the Perhaps the best-remembered voyager, United States Navy. He became the and to many thc most experienced polar oldest man to visit the continent. seaman was the Lyttelton resident, James Paton. He made the incredible With his long, handlebar moustache number of nine trips to the ice. and mop of silver hair, Mortimer "Scotty" Paton had two daughters but McCarthy was an imposing figure aboard they saw little of their father. He must ships and in port. Many a young sea have had very little time at home be- man, including the writer, has ample ween two voyages in the Morning reason to remember his quiet, fatherly advice. (1902-04), two in the Nimrod (1907-09), three in the Terra Nova (1910-13), and Tasmanian-born Tasman Young links two in the Aurora (1914-17). the Ross Sea whaling era with Lyttel The career of this Antarctic seaman ton. He served with C. A. Larsen's fleet "extraordinary" ended in 1917 when in 1923-24, and came back to work on the Aurora disappeared on a voyage the waterfront as a hulk master and to Chile. stevedore. James Paton kept a diary during the Morning's voyage from Hobart to the LOVE OF SEA Antarctic in 1904. It was located in Canterbury recently, and efforts will be Lyttelton still retains its attraction made to secure it for the Canterbury men who have crossed thc Antarctic Museum's Antarctic Centre. Circle. The modern whaling fleets of W. W. Knowles, an A.B. in the Terra South Georgia Co. Ltd., and Christian Nova, also found Lyttelton to his liking, Salvesen are a long way from the port. and he spent his later life there as a But in recent years they have provided waterside worker. Some of his polar four waterside workers on thc Lyttelton equipment is displayed in the Canter scene. And one man from the United bury Merchant Navy Centre at the port. States Navy's Antarctic support force Of all the polar seamen none earned has remained in the port instead of re more respect, and was so well known as turning to his home town. Mortimer McCarthy, an Irishman, from These men, and those who preceded Kinsale, County Cork, who came to them in the days of Scott and Shackle New Zealand in 1906, and sailed from ton, have all perceived something in Lyt Lyttelton as an able seaman aboard the telton that they could not find else Terra Nova in November, 1910. When where. Thc only common denominator, the Terra Nova was in the Bay of apart from polar experience, that can be Whales "Jack" was the first to sight found, is that they nearly all shared a Amundsen's Fram from the rigging. great love of the sea. Working and Mortimer McCarthy raised a family living in Lyttelton went a long way of three sons in Lyttelton, and was a towards satisfying that love. ANTARCTIC

SUB-ANTARCTIC Gough Island now refuge for Kerguelen fur seal Once hunted almost to extinction by Antarctic sealers in the nine teenth century, the Kerguelen fur seal (Arctocephalus tropicalis) has success fully re-established itself on Gough Island. The island is now probably the most popular refuge for thc Kerguelen fur seal of all the islands in the proximity of the Antarctic Convergence. Gough Island also supports a small breeding colony of another protected species, the southern elephant seal (Mirounga loonina), which was also nearly exterminated last century. Last season the South African meteor Kerguelen fur seal of all the islands ological team sent to Gough Island in near the Antarctic Convergence. cluded for the first time a zoologist who The terrestrial phase of the Kerguelen was to conduct a research programme on fur seal's yearly cycle begins in October the island's seals. Mr Marthan N. Bester, when an increase in the number of seals of the Mammal Research Institute of the hauled out becomes evident. The maxi University of Pretoria, was able to study mum number present is attained by population dynamics and animal behavi middle December. There is a distinct our patterns during the six months of the hauling out pattern with sub-adult summer season. Because of the migra animals predominating initially, but with tion of the seals, he returned to South adult males in the majority at the peak Africa by one of the crayfishing trawlers period. which operate in the Gough Island area. A summary of Mr Bester's report, sup COMPETING MALES plied by the Department of Transport, Amongst the adult males two groups which administers the South African can be distinguished. The idle males research programme, says that Gough occupy the open, flat parts of the rocky Island (40deg 21min S/9deg 52min W) beaches, and the definite territorial males supports a lush vegetation and varied stay close to the waterline on topo bird life within its 35 square miles, graphic units consisting of larger rocks. bounded by precipitous cliffs. It lies on These afford sufficient cover against en the South Atlantic Ridge about 200 vironmental factors, of which high miles south of Tristan da Cunha. ambient temperatures are an important one. SMALL COLONY These territories are vigorously Mr Bester says that from the mamma- guarded against encroachment by com logist's point of view Gough Island is peting males. Moreover, serious wounds important since it provides a sanctuary are inflicted in the ensuing combats. It for the Kerguelen fur seals which con- became evident, however, that most con gegate on its rocky beaches during the frontations never result in actual fighting, breeding season in summer. The island but that threat displays and vocalisations also supports a small breeding colony of play an important role in determining the the southern elephant seal. victor and loser in a territorial dispute. Both species are now protected and Into these established territories adult recovering from near extermination to females are taken up on their arrival such an extent that Gough Island is now during the last week of November. A few probably the most popular refuge for the days after these events pupping begins ANTARCTIC

and occurs throughout December as After reaching a low at the end of this females haul out. month the population increases once Females that have pupped are impreg more when seals absent start to return nated a few days later by their harem for their moult throughout February. males which guard them jealously. It has They finally leave the rookery for the been found, however, that although the duration of the winter months and take harem male presides over all these to the high seas although some may fre events, he nevertheless spends on the quent thc shores at this time. average, at least 83 per cent of his time The foregoing pattern was established lying down with no apparent interest in the activity around him. during an investigation executed on the east coast of Gough Island. By far the This feature of behaviour can be ap majority of seals hauling out here are preciated if one realises that thc terri males, and subsequently the birth rate is torial male fasts throughout the breeding very low. In contrast the south coast season, and any excess activity will draw population has a more favourable sex upon his energy reserves. Furthermore, ratio and birth rate. the dense fur, and ample subcutaneous fat deposits, which insulate him so well The fact that thc east coast lies in the in the water, become a burden on land. lee of the island, and relative higher They afford a thermoregulatory problem ambient temperatures prevail, may be a which can be partly solved by a behavi contributing factor to this greater suc our response such as inactivity. cess of the south coast as a breeding site. Middle January brings a reduction in It lies exposed to the cooling effect of seal numbers, and especially adult males, the south-west wind. which leave on feeding trips. Female Further research will reveal more numbers also fluctuate, indicating that the about the Kerguelen fur seal. It is clear females also leave their pups for longer that this once-persecuted marine mammal periods while the latter congregate at the has successfully re-established itself at back of the beach. Gough Island.

Captain Henry was veteran of many Antarctic voyages

A veteran Antarctic shipmaster, Cap Sound like the back of his hand. And tain Clifford D. Henry, died at sea he was well known to Lyttelton shipping towards the end of February aboard the officials and waterfront workers first as United States Navy supply ship, Private master of the Wyandot in thc earlier John R. Towle. Captain Henry, who was years of United States Antarctic opera 56, was homeward bound for Port tions, and then in command of the Hucneme, California, after his 14th Private John R. Towle, a veteran season in Antarctic waters. He had a supply ship — built in 1944 — which long experience of polar operations, carried cargo to the Antarctic way back having made at least 22 voyages into in 1957. Arctic waters. In 1957 Captain Henry made his first Captain Henry, of Lakewood, New voyage to the Antarctic as master of Jersey, who took command of the Pri the cargo ship Mizar. When he left New vate John R. Towle two years ago, Zealand at the end of each season he knew the waters between the New sailed north to the Arctic, and Green Zealand port of Lyttelton and McMurdo land. ANTARCTIC Need to protect all aspects of Antarctic environment Protection of all aspects of the Antarctic environment will now be one of the major interests of the New Zealand Antarctic Society. Its policy was defined in a resolution adopted at the annual meeting in Christchurch on March 22.

Delegates agreed on the need to direct served. The meeting adopted his recom public attention to the dangers of com mendation that a caretakers' committee mercial exploitation of Antarctica, and should be formed to decide on a policy the dumping of nuclear waste on the and list of duties to be done at the huts continent's ice-cap. The meeting de each year. The recommendation will be cided to publicise these questions when forwarded to the Antarctic Division. necessary, and to continue to bring them to the Government's attention. With the establishment of an Antarc tic centre in the Canterbury Museum's Maintenance and preservation of the new wing there could be a demand for historic huts on Ross Island have con historic material in the huts to be cerned thc society since 1969 when it brought back to New Zealand, according began sending caretakers south to assist to Mr Heke. He said that most of the the Antarctic Division. Department of caretakers who had been in the huts Scientific and Industrial Research, in the believed that the contents should remain work. Thc care of three huts, and seven in the Antarctic, but it was agreed that olher historic monuments in the Ross only material which could add to Dependency is thc responsibility of New museum displays and their authenticity Zealand under the Antarctic Treaty. should be removed. Two members of the society represent it on a special sub-committee of the MANAGEMENT PLAN Ross Dependency Research Committee, which was established to consider the Who should give approval to such future policy on the three Ross Island requests? asked Mr Heke. If some mea huts, and Borchgrevink's hut at Cape sure of control was to be exercised, the Adare. The society's representatives are superintendent of the Antarctic Division Mr R. M. Heke, of the Wellington should have the authority or alterna branch, and Mr H. Burson. of the Can tively the Ross Dependency Research terbury branch. Committee's special sub-committee. This sub-committee represented several inter REPORT ON HUTS ested organisations. Last year the society asked Mr Heke A managemnt plan will be prepared to prepare a report and make recom for the care of the historic huts. This mendations for the continued mainten was one of the decisions of the special ance and preservation of thc Ross sub-committee, Mr Heke told the meet Island huts, and the safeguarding of ing. The plan will cover such subjects as their contents. His report, prepared after an appreciation of historic and natural meetings with previous caretakers, was values of the huts, and notes on what is presented at the annual meeting. to be preserved, the relationship of wild Mr Heke said that the presence of life to thc sites, an inventory of articles caretakers in the huts should continue in thc huts, including those at locations as long as possible because only by outside Antarctica, and aerial photo attention to maintenance would the huts graphs and large-scale plans of each and the surrounding environment be pre ANTARCTIC

In his report the president (Mr J. A. tered in the Antarctic since 1957 will be Cross) referred to the approach made to produced by the Canterbury branch this the Canterbury Museum Trust Board fot year. The book will be presented to the representation of the society on the Canterbury Museum, and kept in the boad. This was done because a national Antarctic centre of the new wing. Antarctic centre would be thc heart of The idea of a permanent record of the the museum's new wing, and the society winter teams in the Antarctic came from could assist the board with its know Mr J. A. Newman, leader at Scott Base ledge of Antarctic matters. this winter. Thc book will contain the Mr Cross said thc objects of the names of men who have wintered at society and the ways in which it might Scott Base. , and the assist the board had been outlined to United States-New Zealand base at members. But representation of the , which was closed in the society would involve a revision of the 1972-73 summer. Names of winter par Canterbury Museum Trust Board Act. ties will be added each year. However, the board had now set up a In his report to the annual meeting of special committee to deal with the the branch thc chairman (Mr S. W. Smith) Antarctic centre. This would comprise reported to the provision of amenities board members and representatives of and Christmas cheer for New Zealanders the Antarctic Division, D.S.I.R.. the in the Antarctic. These included a dona United States National Science Founda tion of S50 from the Canterbury and tion, and the society. It was felt that Wellington branches for the purchase of this type of committee would enable the new books for the Scott Base library, society to help the board with advice and the sending of 140 dozen biscuits on Antarctic matters. and five fruit cakes to Scott Base and Mr V. E. Donnelly, of Wellington, field parties. was appointed president, and Mr J. A. Membership of the branch is now Cross, of Christchurch, vice-president. nearly 300. Last year's programme in Other officers of the society are: Secre- cluded addresses about work at Vand.i *ary, Miss J. Kerr; treasurer, Mr H. Station, the activities of hut caretakers ".rson; editor of "Antarctic," Mr J. M. at Cape Royds and Cape Evans, and the Baffin; bulletin secretary, Mrs L. E. logistics of United States Antarctic oper Kerr; representative on Museum Trust ations. Officers of the branch are: Board committee, Mr J. M. Caffin; hon Chairman, Mr J. M. Caffin; vice-chair orary solicitor, Mr R. G. McElrea; men, Messrs R. G. McElrea and H. honorary auditor, Miss I. O. Orchard. Burson; honorary secretary, Mrs E. F. The Prime Minister (Mr W. E. Row Cross; honorary treasurer, Mr J. A. ling) and Dr R. G. Simmers have ac Coss; immediate past chairman, Mr S. cepted office as patrons of the society. W. M. Smith; committee, Messrs A. Bur ton, B. Duffcll, J. Fenwick, L. Kerr, K. BRANCH REPORT Lcfever, B. N. Norris, K. Smith, D. A book which will record thc names Spence, Mesdames E. Smith, J. Kerr, of all New Zealanders who have win and B. Hale. "ANTARCTIC"

is published quarterly in March. June, September, and December. It is the only periodical in the world which gives regular up-to-date news of the Antarctic activities of all the nations at work in the far South. It has a world-wide circulation.

Yearly subscription NZ$3.50. Overseas NZ$4.50, includes postage (air mail postage extra), single copies $1.00. Details of back issues available may be obtained from the Secretary, New Zealand Antarctic Society (Inc.), P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch, New Zealand. Overseas subscribers are asked to ensure that their remittances are converted to New Zealand currency.

The New Zealand Antarctic Society (Inc.)

The New Zealand Antarctic Society was formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders and overseas friends, many of whom have seen Antarctica for themselves, and all of whom are vitally interested in some phase of Antarctic exploration, development, or research. The society has taken an active part in restoring and maintaining the historic huts in the Ross Dependency, and plans to co-operate in securing suitable locations as repositories of Polar material of unique interest. There are two branches of the society and functions are arranged throughout the year. You are invited to become a member, South Island residents should write to the Canterbury secretary, North Islanders should write to the Wellington secretary, and overseas residents to the secretary of the New Zealand Society. For addresses see below. The yearly membership fee is NZ$3.00 (or equivalent local currency). Membership fee, including "Antarctic", NZ$5.00.

New Zealand Secretary Miss J. Kerr, P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch.

Branch Secretaries Canterbury: Mrs E. F. Cross, P.O. Box 404, Christchurch. ■ Wellington: Mr G. D. Sylvester, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington. Printed at the Raven Press, 241 Cashel Street, Christchurch

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