Watermill Building Plans For complete building instructions and instructional videos, please visit the main web site at www.hirstarts.com/watermill/watermill.html. Using these plans alone will not give you enough information to build the water mill.
Please note that this is a fairly large and complex project. If this is your first building project using Hirst Arts molds, I strongly suggest you choose a more simple project instead.
This project uses six different Hirst Arts molds. The number of castings needed are: 20 castings of mold #226, wooden beam mold 16 castings of mold #225, half timber mold 15 castings of mold #253, brick panel mold 10 castings of mold #263, rubble block mold 10 castings of mold #230 clay tile roof mold 8 castings of mold #227, tavern window and door mold
This project is designed so that you do not have to make the river or water wheel portion of the mill if you do not want to. If you leave these off, you can simply make a nice looking two-story house. However, you will have a few extra unused castings if you do this. Please do the steps below in order. Step 1: Castings and Printed Plans. Cast all of the molds and sort the pieces. If you place all of the pieces from one mold on a sheet of cardboard, it will be easier to find the pieces you need and move them out of the way when you don’t need them.
After printing these plans, several pages will need to be taped together to form a larger plan. Below is a diagram of which pages need assembled.
Page 4 Page 6 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11
Page 5 Page 7
Step 2: Gluing wood and stone sections. Glue together the following wood and stone sections: B1 bottom floor T1 top floor R4 roof dormer peaks B2 main beams (7) T2 main beams (6) R5 roof dormer windows B7 chimney bottom T6 bay window side B8 lower fireplace T7 bay window W4 wooden wheel (don’t glue mantle onto fireplace) T8 bay window side W5 stone wheel support B9 stairway T10 chimney top (12 wooden paddles around B10 large braces T11 upper fireplace the wheel will be painted on B11 small braces T12 porch front top all sides along with this group.) B12 porch side braces T13 porch front railing B13 porch side railing T14 porch side braces B14 porch front brace T15 porch side railing B15 porch front railing T16 stair railing B16 front and side doors (2) T17 upper front door
Floor sections B1 and T1 can be glued to thin card stock or matt board. You can lay the plans for B1 and T1 over card stock, poke holes in the corners, connect the dots and use this as a guide as to where to spread the glue on the floor. Page 1 Step 3: Cutting the water base. If you intend to make the water level, you will need 1/2” thick insulating foam. Lay the plans for W1, W2 and W3 over the foam and poke holes through the plan into the foam. Then connect the dots and accurately cut the three foam shapes. Glue the W2 and W3 foam slabs together. Cut the bank edges in a slop towards the water. You may even want to cut a rock texture into the banks. Glue the rubble blocks around W3 to form the foundation stone under the house. Also glue the stones onto the face of W2. If your foam is slightly thicker than 1/2”, then be sure the stones of the foundation are flush with the top of the foam. The gap underneath can be covered with ground scenic materials later on.
Cut out the riverbed printed texture and varnish it down onto W1. Glue paper on the underside of the hole in W1 and paint the bottom of the hole brown. W2 and W3 will be glued down to W1 after the stone foundation and banks are painted.
Step 4: Painting the pieces and base. Review the pieces list on page 23 of these plans. All of these pieces will be prepainted individually before gluing them together to form walls. Since this is an exact count of the pieces you will need, it’s a good idea to paint a couple extra of each piece in case you break or lose a piece.
Start with the brick panels. Use permanent double stick tape to stick down the brick panels onto pieces of cardboard. The backs of the pieces may need to be sanded slightly in order to stick. Split five of the 1” x 2” vertical brick panels down the center and split one of the 2” square sections as well. Spray paint these a flat or satin almond color. When dry, stain them with brown shoe polish and wipe off the excess.
Next are the half timber and decorative window pieces. Look on the parts list on page 23 and stick these pieces down to chunks of cardboard. These may also need sanding on the back side. All of these timbers and windows will be spray painted flat black (don’t forget the three iron straps from mold #226).
Spray paint flat black all of the wooden and stone sections that you assembled on step 1 of these instructions.
Hand paint W2 and W3 (stone foundation and banks) flat black using thinned down acrylic paint. You cannot spray paint these because spray paint will dissolve the foam.
Dry brush all wooden pieces with medium brown from the earth tone colors. Mask off the stone sections on floors B1 and T1, then heavily dry brush all stone pieces using the same medium brown. Afterwards, lightly dry brush all stone sections with light gray from the castle gray colors. Dry brush all hinges and straps with silver.
Step 5: Building the remaining walls. Assemble wall sections B3, B4, B5, B6, T3, T4, T5 and T9 using all prepainted brick panels and timbers. Wait to glue on fireplaces and items with hinges until after the walls are assembled, otherwise wall will not lay flat when gluing on the back side.
Paint the insides of the doorways and the tops of the wall sections with raw umber paint (or some color that looks appropriate). This will hide the light brick color that’s sandwiched between the dark planks. Paint black on the insides of the chimney and dry brush black around the fireplace openings and chimney top.
Step 6: Gluing the walls onto the floors. Glue the bottom floor pieces B2, B3, B4, B5 and B6 onto the B1 floor to form a complete circle of wall. Glue the porch pieces B2, B12, B13, B14 and B15. Do not glue on the chimney yet. Once dry, flip this first floor upside down and glue the B10 and B11 braces onto the outsides of the wall.
Glue the top floor pieces T2, T3, T4, T5, T6, T7, T8, and T9 onto the T1 floor to form a complete circle of wall. Assemble the upper porch using pieces T2, T12, T13, T14 and T15.
To determine where the chimney should go, set the first floor of the house down onto the foundation (or onto page 14 of the plan if you didn’t make a foundation). Set the second floor down on top of the first floor so they line up. Glue the bottom and top chimneys onto the sides of the house, making sure that the right side of the chimney aligns with the center peak of the house.
Step 7: Finishing the water base. Glue W2 and W3 down onto W1 foam base. Glue the wooden insert into the W5 stone wheel support. Glue the wooden Page 2 paddle template (looks like a saw blade) onto some heavy card stock and cut it out. Use this as a guide to glue the wooden paddles into the water wheel. Slide a B2 beam through the water wheel (trimming will be needed) and position the water wheel according to the instructions on the web site. The B2 beam should not interfere with setting the house into position on the foundation.
Dam around the outside edges of the river using strips of insulating foam with packaging tape stuck to them. Pin these in place around the river and seal all edges using 5 minute epoxy. Mix up 12 ounces of Envirotex Lite and add food coloring; 5 drops blue, 5 drops green and 2 drops red. Mix this up and pour it into your river. When cured, remove the strips and trim off any excess plastic. Varnish the wooden wheel with gloss varnish. Use acrylic gloss medium to texture the water. Finish the dry land by painting it a dirt color and gluing on ground foam scenic materials.
Step 8: Making the roof. Lay the roof plans for R1 and R2 onto thick card stock and poke holes in the corners. Remove the plan and connect the dots, then cut the outside shape of the roof. Across the main peak, cut only halfway down into the card stock so the roof will fold properly. The small side roof on R1 will need to be cut underneath so this part will fold upwards. Test fit the roof onto the building and trim as needed. Glue the roof tiles from mold #230 into place on the roof and glue on the peak tiles. Tiles on the plan that look “broken” will need to be trimmed to fit properly. This can be done using tile nippers and a file.
Roof section R2 will need to be assembled separately. Find a good 90 degree angled peak surface to set the card stock roof section over and glue on the roof tiles, extending over the angled back edge. Also glue on the peak tiles. Once dry, the back edge of the roof will need to be carefully clipped and sanded to fit against the R1 main roof. Once it fits properly, glue it into place and then fill any large gaps between R1 and R2 with paintable caulking.
Once completely dry, glue three of the 90 degree angle supports (found on page 36) underneath R1 and one underneath R2 . These can be made from cardboard or foam core board. Be sure these are at least one inch in from the edge of the roof.
Lay the roof plans for R3 onto thin card stock and poke holes in the corners. Remove the plan and connect the dots, then cut the outside shape of the roof. Do this for two small roofs. Fold these down the center line, lay them over a 90 degree peak surface and glue on the roof tiles and pieak tiles.
Completely paint all three roof sections (main assembled roof and two dormer roofs). Spray paint them with rust colored primer and then dry brush them with medium pink.
When dry, glue together the R3, R4 and R5 pieces to form the completed dormers. After the glue dries, trim and sand the back edge of the dormer roofs to fit flat against the existing roof and glue them into place. It really doesn’t matter how you position them, but try to put the edges of the dormers resting on the top peaks of the tiles so you don’t have deep grooves around the edges of the dormers.
Touch up any places with paint that need it. Many times, planks will have a white edge showing where they connect to a wall beam.
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Page 24
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Page 25
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Page 26
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Page 27
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Page 28
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oefor Hole fireplace 3/4”
e the ter
2” rmMl #226 Mold from beams Wooden
½” ½”
B6
Page 29
½” ½”
2.5” ½” ½”
2.5” ½”
½”
2”
T3 2.5”
nieo wall of Inside
1”
½” ½” 2.5”
2.5” 2.5”
1.5”
2.5”
ontgu ori place. in door glue not Do
rmMl #225 Mold from Planks Wooden
½” ½”
2”
1.5”
2.5” 2.5”
icsfo od#227 Mold from pieces decorative and Windows 2.5”
½” ½”
1”
½”
2.5” ½” rmMl #253 Mold from panels Brick
2”
Page 30 T3
usd fwall of Outside
2”
2.5” ½” ½”
2.5” ½” ½”
ontgu ori place. in door glue not Do
1.5” rmMl #225 Mold from Planks Wooden
1.5”
2.5” ½” ½”
2.5” ½” ½” icsfo od#227 Mold from pieces decorative and Windows
2”
letesutr on shutters the Glue fe h alsection wall the after scompletely is sebe because assembled h igssikout. stick hinges the rmMl #253 Mold from panels Brick
2”
Page 31 nieo wall of Inside
T4
icsfo od#227 Mold from pieces decorative and Windows #225 Mold from Planks Wooden
½”
1.5” 1.5”
½” 2” 1”
2.5” 1.5” rmMl #253 Mold from panels Brick
2.5” 2.5”
½” 2” 1”
1.5” ½”
2”
Page 32 usd fwall of Outside
T4
2” icsfo od#227 Mold from pieces decorative and Windows #225 Mold from Planks Wooden
3/4”
2.5”
½” 2.5” 1” 2” 2” 1”
rmMl #253 Mold from panels Brick
½” 2.5” 1”
2.5”
3/4”
Page 33 T5
3/4” 2.5”
usd fwall of Outside
rmMl #225 Mold from Planks Wooden
2” 2” 2.5”
3/4” icsfo od#227 Mold from pieces decorative and Windows
3/4” 3/4” 2.5”
nieo wall of Inside
2” 2”
rmMl #253 Mold from panels Brick 2.5”
3/4” 3/4”
Page 34 fireplace
oefor Hole
nieo wall of Inside
T9
de ilbe will Edges rknofand off broken sanded.
R2
3/4” 3/4”
2.5” 3/4”
fe h wall the after
leti on this Glue
assembled.
oshere goes
eto is section
Fireplace
1” 2.5”
3/4” icsfo od#227 Mold from pieces decorative and Windows #225 Mold from Planks Wooden rmMl #253 Mold from panels Brick rmMl #230 Mold from tiles roof Clay
Page 35 Wooden Planks Brick panels Clay roof tiles from Mold #225 from Mold #253 from Mold #230
Windows and decorative pieces from Mold #227
Outside of wall Roof angle support s. T9 Make 2 set s of these.
½” 2.5” 2.5”
R3 Page 36 Make 2 of these
½” Edges will be broken off and sanded. 1” 1.5” 1.5”
Chimney goes here 2” 2” 2” 2”
Hole for fireplace R1 Clay roof tiles from Mold #230
cr n oddown. fold and Score
oftlso hsscinmyhave may section this on tiles Roof omv slightly move to h ofhsbe e ntebuilding. the on set been has roof the
cr nbc side back on Score n odup. fold and
ogu hs af these glue so ,
ter
Page 37 Riverbed
Slots may need to be cut deeper depending on the angle of your slope.
Wheel support W5 goes here
Image from Mayang’s free texture library
Cut slots
Wheel support W5 goes here
Page 38