PRISM Winter 2009

AGTA Spectrum Awards™

A Model Photographer The Woman Behind the Trophies

Member Profile: Mark Schneider JEWELFOLIO™

A NEW DIRECTION IN GEMOLOGY

The AGTA GTC JewelFolio™ is a custom built one-of-a-kind document for a one-of-a-kind jewel. Each JewelFolio™ is an individually numbered hardcover cloth or leatherbound volume that accompanies an individual gemstone. Every JewelFolio™ consists of 32 – 42 full color pages blending modern science with art and history.

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212-752-1717 www.agta-gtc.org [email protected] PRISMIWINTER 2009

Letter From the President

When I became President of the AGTA our Members’ businesses survive and im- in the fall of 2007, we all knew that there prove, and to grow our organization both was a management crisis in our Associa- in numbers and in worldwide recognition. tion. In the past 1.5 years, the staff and BJ and I have worked closely together dur- Board have sailed to a smooth recovery. ing this past year to guarantee a smooth Here are the highlights: transition of leadership and continuance of 1. The Dallas office is producing more the objectives established by the Board of Member Benefits and more gemstone Directors. BJ has shown a total commit- promotions than ever before. ment to our Members and the AGTA, and 2. Spectrum was a huge success and I am sure he will be an outstanding Presi- received more internet and publication dent for your Association. coverage than prior years. Having said all this, we are going into look to you and rely on you for your con- 3. Last year AGTA GemFair™ Tucson one of the most difficult times any of us tinuing participation in the Association was the most successful trade show. has ever faced. This will be a test for many that is The Authority in Color™. 4. The GTC is performing better than it of us as businesses as well as for the AGTA I wish you all the best. Have a wonder- has ever done since its inception. as an organization. How can we grow ful 2009 and a successful AGTA Gem- With Douglas Hucker and Lore Kiefert while controlling expenses; grow while Fair™ Tucson! ▲ at the helms of our ships, we are moving prioritizing our goals and grow while sac- in a very positive direction. We have all rifices have to be made? I am confident Sincerely, worked toward a common goal of making that we have the team in place to overcome our Association more meaningful to our the obstacles before us. Members and to our industry. As Benjamin I will enjoy sitting on the Board as Barbara Lawrence (BJ) Hackman expressed in his letter, we the Past President, and will be chair- AGTA President have many projects in the works to help ing the Nominations Committee. I will

Letter From the Incoming President

Greetings to my fellow AGTA Members: the best possible professional Staff and a For the past 27 years, AGTA has been most-dedicated Board of Directors at its in the forefront of the colored gemstone in- disposal. We’re working diligently to: dustry. Unfortunately, as everyone is well 1. Grow and sustain AGTA GemFair™ aware, we are experiencing a very difficult Tucson as the world’s premier colored financial period in the United States and gemstone trade show. the entire world. Hardly any businesses are 2. Improve AGTA GemFair™ Las Ve- immune to this economic downturn. This gas in order to attract more buyers from means that we all have to work harder to the manufacturing and designer pavil- maintain our current status at home and ions to buy from our Members. abroad. 3. Increase our Membership, particu- I’ve been involved with the AGTA since larly Retail Members, by 10% per year. and service performance. its inception. With my long association as 4. Remain fiscally sound and respon- 6. Continue improving our Source a Member and a Board Member over the sible to our Membership – to spend our Directory and www.agta.org so that years, I can say with confidence that our money wisely and effectively. they serve as marketing tools in the Association is extremely fortunate to have 5. Improve the GTC’s turn-around time (continued on page 4)

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Board of Directors

P r e s i de n t Barbara Lawrence Boston Gems and Findings, Inc. M embership Benefits V i c e P r e s i de n t The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of Robert Bentley Robert Bentley Company, Inc. United States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls. Benjamin Hackman Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members representing leading Intercolor, Inc. colored gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retail jewelers, jewelry S e c r e ta r i e s manufacturers, designers, colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and Betty Sue King King’s Ransom industry professionals.

AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing Kambiz Sabouri to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics, Constitution and full disclosure of Gem 2000, Inc. gemstone enhancements. Tr e a s u r e r Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services: Sampat Poddar Byrex Gems, Inc. Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, D i r e c t o r s AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas, JA New York and The Instore Show. John Bachman John M. Bachman, Inc. Members are listed and granted four free listings in the AGTA Source Directory. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network of Peter Bazar Imperial-Deltah, Inc. fellow gemstone professionals. Over 20,000 copies are distributed!

Members receive preferred pricing for services at the AGTA Gemological Sushil Goyal Testing Center and on a large variety of marketing materials. Liberty Gems, Inc.

Members stay informed about all the hot topics surrounding our industry and Bill Larson the AGTA with the quarterly Prism newsletter and weekly ePrism. Pala International, Inc.

Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include Glenn Lehrer Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Lehrer Designs, Inc. Declared Value, FedEx Kinkos, insurance programs through Association Gerry Manning Health Programs and the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program. Manning International, Inc. The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from Joe Orlando the competition.▲ Stuller, Inc. Pr ism Eric Schwotzer is distributed quarterly for American Gem Trade Association Members. Penn Gem International

For further information or to advertise, please contact: Pa s t P r e s i de n t Joshua Garcia Eric Braunwart American Gem Trade Association Columbia Gem House, Inc. 3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234 C h i e f E x e c u t i v e O f f i c e r 800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX Douglas K. Hucker www.agta.org www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com On the Cover: 2009 Spectrum Awards winning morganite earrings by Richard Krementz Gemstones. 2009 Spectrum Awards winning star rose quartz ring by Jennifer Rabe Morin. Photographed by Jack Deutsch.

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most technologically “friendly” format. It’s an honor and a privilege for me to Please feel free to contact me at any 7. Stay up-to-date using the latest avail- serve as AGTA’s new President. My term time with your suggestions, questions, able technology for marketing, not only begins after the upcoming Tucson show. criticisms or grievances. ▲ for AGTA as a whole, but, potentially, I’ll do my very best to insure that AGTA as an economical marketing option to meets the challenges that face our trade. All the best, Members who wish to utilize these fa- As Barbara Lawrence ends her term as cilities as they become available. President, she leaves a strengthened As- To accomplish all of the above and sociation, having seamlessly wedded the Benjamin (BJ) Hackman more, we’ll need your participation and Board’s directions to the Staff’s adminis- AGTA Incoming President active involvement to serve on committees tration of those directions. I enter my term and volunteer to serve on future Boards. having the good fortune to follow Barba- Please come forward. Help us to reinforce ra’s highly productive tenure. May I do as our message that AGTA is The Authority well as she in forwarding the best interests in Color™. of our Association and our trade.

Letter From the CEO

How many of the Ten Commandants participants were more likely to engage in can you recite? unethical behavior if they saw that same I am an avid listener to National Public behavior in folks they held in high regard Radio, and I was particularly intrigued by and less likely to emulate that behavior if one broadcast last week. Seems the folks it was evidenced in people for whom they at Carnegie Mellon University, as a result had less respect. of the Bernie Madoff scandal on Wall The lesson I took from this is that when Street, decided to conduct a study in just our clients come to our booths here at how willing people were to bend the rules AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, our behavior (cheat) when faced with the opportunity. will influence theirs. Our Members are The study gathered a couple of dozen grad- held in high regard by the jewelry indus- uate students in a room and asked them to try because of our commitment to ethical adherence. Each year, we send out a form answer twenty-five questions, for which and professional business practices, and for our Members to sign, in which they they would be paid for correct answers. our customers have every right to expect commit to our Code of Ethics. Might be Long story short, the test was conducted and receive full and complete disclosure a good idea if we all took just a short mo- in such a way that all of the participants of treatments. If they see AGTA dealers ment and read through them prior to sign- could clearly see if someone was cheating. routinely neglecting to disclose on their ing the form. The AGTA Code of Ethics is Seems that if the cheaters were wearing invoices or memos, would it be any sur- available online at Carnegie Mellon sweatshirts, the other prise that they would be less likely to do so http://agta.org/about/ethics.html. ▲ students (all Carnegie Mellon students) themselves? Not according to the folks at were more inclined to cheat, themselves; Carnegie Mellon. See you all in Tucson! and if the cheaters were wearing University Oh, by the way, one more segment of of Pittsburgh sweatshirts, the rest of the the Carnegie Mellon study determined that students were less inclined to cheat. Ap- when participants were asked, prior to the Douglas K. Hucker parently, the participants held Carnegie test, if they could recite each of the Ten AGTA Chief Executive Officer Mellon students in higher regard and had Commandants, regardless of how many of a fair amount of disdain for those from the ten they could recite, no one engaged in Pittsburgh. cheating. I guess even an oblique reminder The researchers concluded that the of our ethical commitments ensures greater

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Countless hours of work by the Spectrum competition comes after the winners are featuring 158.26 ct. hand-carved natural Committee Members, judges and AGTA announced. AGTA hosts a viewing of all enhanced Turquoise, white Diamonds (3.77 Staff go into making the competition the entries in New York for members of ctw.) and demantoid Garnets (.16 ctw.) set in a reality each year. This year was no the media and fashion community. One of 18K green and white gold. exception. Under the guidance of the the primary goals of the competition is to Spectrum Awards Committee Chairman, create excitement and exposure for colored The Best Use of Color for the competition Robert Bentley, the competition saw the gemstones and cultured pearls through the was the platinum “Kaleidoscope X2” ring second most entries in its history— quite media. Working with the New York based featuring an 85 ct. Crystal surrounding a feat in these economic times. We were PR firm Lüp, AGTA was able to attract a Diamonds (10.13 ctw.), Amethysts (2.50 thrilled to have a committed group of great cross section of consumer media, trade ctw.), Aquamarines (1.45 ctw.), fire Opals (.90 diverse judges: Tom Heyman of Oscar press and stylists from television and film. ctw.), Topaz (1.10 ctw.), Citrines (4.89 ctw.), Heyman, Donna Sturm for Verdura, The media day is gaining a great reputation Garnets (2.13 ctw.) and Tourmalines (2.85 Claudia Mata from Town & Country for those seeking out new trends in jewelry ctw.). It was designed by James W. Currens, magazine and lapidarist Walter Casaravilla. design, gemstones and color. From initial J.W. Currens, Inc., New York, NY. This entry The judges volunteer their time to spend reports, it looks like an incredible amount of also won Fashion Forward Honors. days locked away with all of the entries exposure has been generated for the submitted until they award all the winners. This is jewelry and gemstones- winners and non- Currens was also awarded the Best Use of an intense process that is only made more winners alike. Pearls for his platinum and 18K yellow gold difficult by the outstanding quality of the “Celebration” ring featuring a 16mm white individual entries. The Best of Show distinction was awarded South Sea Pearl, a 12.5mm golden South Sea to Frederic Sage, Frederic Sage, Great Neck, Pearl, a 14.4mm black Tahitian Pearl and a Perhaps the most significant part of the NY, for his “Enchanted Stallion” brooch 10.15mm black Tahitian Pearl accented with

Best Use of Color Best Use of Pearls & J.W. Currens, Inc. Fashion Forward Honors J.W. Currens, Inc.

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white and yellow Diamonds (3.76 ctw.).

A platinum necklace featuring a 112.84 ct. Aquamarine briolette accented with Diamonds and Aquamarines (4.79 ctw.) designed by Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney, Los Angeles, CA, was awarded the Best Use of Color and Platinum.

As you will see in the following pages, this Best of Show Frederic Sage year’s winning pieces show innovative design elements paired with great quality gemstone and pearl material. The designs are a great tribute to the passion of each designer and help generate excitement for our product.

We are looking forward to the next twenty-five years starting with the 2010 competition this Fall. So, get your jewelry and gemstones ready and be on the look-out for the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ entry information on wwww.agta.org.▲

Best Use of Color & Platinum Erica Courtney, Inc.

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Bridal Wear

1st Place 2nd Place 3rd Place Manufacturing Honors Judy Evans Evelyn Clothier Carley McGee-Boehm Michael Endlich Richard Krementz Gemstones Evelyn Clothier Jewelry Carley Jewels Pave Fine Jewelry Platinum earrings featuring Platinum earrings featuring white Palladium earrings featuring Platinum ring featuring a 2.85 ct. Morganite briolettes (27.08 ctw.) donut Agates accented with cuprian Tourmalines (18.09 ctw.) rainbow Moonstone cabochon accented with Diamonds Diamonds (4.15 ctw.). accented with black Spinel and accented with Diamonds (.20 ctw.). (2.35 ctw.). rock crystal Quartz helioliths.

Classical

1st Place 2nd Place 3rd Place Manufacturing Honors Gregore Morin Erica Courtney Jeffrey Bilgore Richard Krementz Gemstones Gregore Joailliers Erica Courtney Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC Richard Krementz Gemstones 18K white and yellow gold frog 18K yellow gold ring featuring a Platinum ring featuring a 14.80 ct. Platinum and 18K yellow gold ring brooch featuring Opals (2.32 17.51 ct. Chalcedony cabochon cushion-cut blue-green Tourmaline featuring a 5.37 ct. blue Sapphire ctw.), Moonstones (1.08 ctw.) and accented with Turquoise cabochons accented with Diamonds (.70 ctw.). accented with Diamonds (1.05 pink Sapphires (.03 ctw.). (3.10 ctw.) and Diamonds. ctw.).

Day Wear

1st Place 2nd Place 3rd Place Honorable Mention Devta Doolan Jennifer Rabe Morin Ashleigh Branstetter Glen J. Engelbrecht Devta Doolan Jewelry Jennifer Joailliers Ashleigh Branstetter, LLC GJ Designs 24K yellow and 14K rose 18K white gold ring featuring 18K yellow gold ring featuring 18K yellow gold pendant featuring gold necklace featuring Jasper a 38.67 ct. star rose Quartz a 32.10 ct. pink Tourmaline a drusy Quartz leaf accented with cabochons (630 ctw.). cabochon accented with pink cabochon accented with Diamonds (1.13 ctw.). Sapphires (7.19 ctw.) and Diamonds (.58 ctw.). Diamonds (1.04 ctw.).

7 Platinum Honors Erica Courtney Erica Courtney Platinum necklace featuring a 112.84 ct. Aquamarine briolette accented with Diamonds and Aquamarines (4.79 ctw.).

Honorable Mention Platinum Honors Julie Buckareff Aron Suna JJ Buckar Suna Bros. Inc. 18K yellow gold cameo featuring Platinum ring featuring a 7.74 ct. a carved shell accented with white antique cushion-cut Topaz accented Diamonds (2.03 ctw.), tsavorite and with Diamonds (.62 ctw.). spessartite Garnets (1.08 ctw.), pink, blue and yellow Sapphires (3.08 ctw.) and Paraiba Tourmalines (.30 ctw.).

Manufacturing Honors Platinum Honors Yehouda Saketkhou Evelyn Clothier Yael Designs Evelyn Clothier Jewelry Platinum ring featuring a 13mm Platinum earrings featuring triangle- black Tahitian Pearl accented with cut green Tourmalines (13.68 ctw.) pave Diamonds. accented with Diamonds (1.50 ctw.). Evening Wear

1st Place 2nd Place 3rd Place Frederic Sage Julie Buckareff Evelyn Clothier Frederic Sage JJ Buckar Evelyn Clothier Jewelry “Enchanted Stallion” brooch Platinum “Ribbons” ring Platinum earrings featuring featuring 158.26 ct. hand- featuring an 11.50 ct. green Beryl drops (70.86 carved natural Turquoise, Tanzanite accented with ctw.) accented with square white Diamonds (3.77 ctw.) ideal-cut Diamonds (3.50 and round-cut Tourmalines and demantoid Garnets ctw.). (4.23 ctw.) and Diamonds (.16 ctw.) set in 18K green (.78 ctw.). and white gold.

Men’s Wear

1st Place 2nd Place Ricardo Basta Robert Pelliccia E. Eichberg, Inc. J.R. Dunn Jewelers 18K yellow gold and platinum Platinum and 22K yellow cufflinks featuring lavender gold ring featuring a 1.75 Chalcedony cabochons ct. emerald-cut Alexandrite (14.70 ctw.), round yellow accented with Diamond Sapphires (1.57 ctw.), round baguettes (.69 ctw.). Diamonds (0.17 ctw.) and round Rubies (0.08 ctw.).

Consumer’s Choice Honors

Bridal Classical Khai Le Richard Krementz Charles Koll Jewellers Richard Krementz Platinum ring featuring a 2.71 Gemstones ct. cushion-cut blue Sapphire Platinum ring featuring a 3.44 accented with Diamonds ct. champagne Diamond (.15 ctw.) accented with white Diamonds (1.29 ctw.).

Classic Gemstone All Other Faceted

Bridal1st Place Bridal 3rd Place 1st Place 3rd Place Khai Le John M. Bachman Khai Le Allen Kleiman Jeffrey Bilgore Joseph Ambalu Charles JohnKoll M.Jewellers Bachman, Inc.Charles Koll JewellersA. Kleiman & Co. Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC Amba Gem Corp. Platinum 29.92ring featuring ct. natural a 2.71 yellow Platinum ring featuring9.13 ct. a 2.71heart-shaped natural 11.44 ct. oval-cut red Spinel. 8.62 ct. oval-cut natural Paraiba ct. cushion-cutSapphire. blue Sapphire ct. cushion-cut blueyellow Sapphire Sapphire. Tourmaline. accented with Diamonds accented with Diamonds 2nd Place (.15 ctw.)2nd Place (.15 ctw.) Joseph Ambalu Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. Amba Gem Corp. 10.45 ct. natural elbaite 6.05 ct. emerald-cut natural 9 Tourmaline. blue Sapphire.

Honorable Mention Manufacturing Honors Platinum Honors Yehouda Saketkhou Erica Courtney Michael daCosta Yael Designs Erica Courtney Fortune’s Fine 18K white and yellow gold 18K yellow gold earrings Jewellery, Ltd. ring featuring a 60. ct. featuring pear-shaped Platinum brooch featuring yellow Sapphire accented and antique cushion-cut a .57 ct. brown Diamond with white and yellow Tanzanites (17.56 ctw.). accented with yellow Diamonds (10.0 ctw.). Diamonds (.52 ctw.), Rubies, pink and yellow Sapphires (9.15 ctw.) and white Diamonds (1.58 ctw.).

3rd Place Manufacturing Honors Platinum Honors Jack Bigio Ricardo Basta Mark Schneider Basser & Bigio, LLC E. Eichberg, Inc. Mark Schneider Design 22K and 18K yellow gold Palladium ring featuring a Platinum ring featuring an cufflinks featuring bi-color 19.68 ct. oval brown Zircon. 11.54 ct. indicolite Tourmaline watermelon Tourmaline slices accented with white and (30.50 ctw.). yellow Diamonds (1.58 ctw.).

Consumer’s Choice Honors

Day Wear Evening Wear Men’s Wear Pamela Froman Dennis deJonghe Robert Pelliccia Pamela Froman deJonghe J.R. Dunn Jewelers Fine Jewelry Platinum pendant featuring a Platinum and 22K yellow 18K white, rose and green gold 17.06 ct. Aquamarine accented gold ring featuring a 1.75 necklace featuring a 10.4mm with an Iolite and Diamonds ct. emerald-cut Alexandrite golden South Sea Pearl, a blue- (.13 ctw.) on a strand of accented with Diamond grey Tahitian Pearl and a green- freshwater Pearls. baguettes (.69 ctw.). grey Tahitian Pearl accented with Diamonds (.45 ctw.).

Phenomenal Pairs & Suites

1st Place 3rd Place 1st Place 3rd Place James W. Currens Stephen Kotlowski Allen Kleiman Thomas Trozzo J.W. Currens, Inc. Zultanite Gems, LLC A. Kleiman & Co. Trozzo 34.80 ct. natural boulder 80.25 ct. oval Zultanite. Pair of cushion-cut Peridot Suite of dimple-cut round Citrines Opal fancy cabochon. (28.47 ctw.). (46.98 ctw.).

Honorable Mention 2nd Place 2nd Place David Brackna Omi Nagpal Nandu Nichani David A. Brackna, Gemcutter Omi Gems, Inc. Temple Trading Co. “Carousel”-cut assembled Opal 5.98 ct. cushion-cut 10 Pair of silver pear-shaped inlaid and surrounded by Heliodor Alexandrite. Moonstones (107.09 ctw.). (17.58 ctw.). PRISM|WINTER 2009

Faceting Carving

1st Place 3rd Place 1st Place 3rd Place Ben Kho Christopher Wolfsberg Larry Woods Darryl Alexander Kho International, Ltd. K.S. Export, LLC Jewels From the Woods Alexander’s Jewelers 15.05 ct. cushion-cut 41.65 ct. modified square-cut 40.47 ct. Lightning Ridge 25.70 ct. “Autumn Forming” Agate Rhodochrosite. Heliodor. Opal carving. free-form carving.

2nd Place 2nd Place Shawn Maddox Glenn Lehrer Jewels From the Woods Lehrer Designs, Inc. 19.01 ct. “Celestial Compass” “Solar Flare” 70.13 ct. carved Peridot. transparent-orange Brazilian Opal.

Combination Objects of Art

1st Place 3rd Place Michael M. Dyber John Dyer Michael M. Dyber dba Ledge John Dyer & Co. Art Studio 106.84 ct. “Aqua Exuberance” 89.79 ct. carved Aquamarine. Aquamarine. Honorable Mention 2nd Place John Dyer Cheng Ming John Dyer & Co. Milani Jewelry Co., Ltd. 27.12 ct. concave-cut trillion Aquamarine. 11. ct. round Citrine. 1st Place 3rd Place Dalan Hargrave R.A. “Art” Guyon GemStarz International Gem Mart Executive desk set featuring “Moods” sculpture of Jasper. Lightning Ridge Opal, black Galaxy, black Jade and Honorable Mention Quartz (1500 ctw.). Robert Wander Robert Wander for Winc Creations 2nd Place Walking stick an 18K yellow Dalan Hargrave gold flamingo handle featuring Juniper Ridge Opal multi-colored Sapphires (95.58 ctw.) “Cheese” carving featuring a and chocolate Diamonds (1.57 ctw.). full variety of Juniper Ridge Opal (2400 ctw.). 11 PRISM|WINTER 2009

A Model Photographer

In 1977, fresh out of high school, and resets my visual aesthetics. I try to of each model. Deutsch likes to feel Jack Deutsch came to New York from synthesize some of the ideas that I feel I comfortable with the models since they Chicago. His plan was to take a year off can achieve during the shoot day. I know will be working under a lot pressure. before going into medical school. By a that I need to produce eight or nine shots, fluke, he quickly began working as an so I keep my goals realistic, but I still The AGTA enlisted Deutsch once again assistant photographer, and he never strive to make photos that I and others find to shoot for the 25th Anniversary of the looked back. At 23, he was working for really beautiful.” AGTA Spectrum Awards™. The day gets Gordon Munro when he received a call under way early with hair and make-up for for an assignment from “a friend of a The secret to Deutsch’s successful cover the models. The AGTA Staff creates the friend.” The work was for American shots is simple. He makes the jewelry the suites of the winning pieces for Deutsch to designing pioneer Geoffrey Beene. The star. “The biggest challenge to shooting capture. The stylist then brings out racks fashion designer needed pictures for his AGTA and jewelry in general is getting a of clothes to pair with the winning jewels. runway show. Jack’s photography and beautiful and interesting photo with action With roof-top access and different sets, his innovative ideas launched him into and dynamism and yet still getting the the photo shoot gets under way. Moving a national ad campaign in Vogue, Town gemstone sharp and clear,” says Deutsch. at a ferocious pace, the photographer, the & Country and Harpers Bazaar. Geoffrey models and the crew seamlessly transition Beene would remain a client for the next the sets for the next shot. 20 years. The day is long, but Deutsch captures nine Deutsch has done and shot it all: “I’ll looks that are amazing. So amazing, that shoot everything as long as it wants to JCK Magazine, Jewellery Business, Instore be photographed.” So, when the AGTA and Modern Jeweler will be featuring approached him to photograph the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ model covers Spectrum Awards in 2003, he agreed. for the January/February issues. The cover shots he creates are extremely important to the Association. They capture To learn more about Jack Deutsch, visit the winning jewelry and catapult the www.jackdeutsch.com. To see some designs and designers onto the covers incredible shots that have been featured by of trade magazines such as Canadian A little “photocollaging” is necessary to top magazines visit, www.agta.org. ▲ Jeweller, JCK Magazine, Jewellery make it work. Jack and his crew gather the Business, Instore and Modern Jeweler. elements before the time of the shoot to This type of exposure is what the Spectrum anticipate the needs of the AGTA. Awards is all about! Model selection is critical for Preparation for the AGTA Spectrum photographing jewelry. Deutsch contacts Awards™ shoot begins months in advance his favorite bookers and begins to compile with the initial booking, set design and a list of models that will be available on model selection. the day of the AGTA shoot. He then makes recommendations and emails links to the “For the weeks, and particularly the days, AGTA for review. “We go back and forth before the AGTA shoot, I look at as many a few times until I feel comfortable that beauty photos as possible. The internet we have a tight selection,” states Deutsch. is a great tool for this research, but as a He then sees all the models in person. He photographer I’m always looking at the looks for good skin qualities, good hands, natural world around me – taking a day pierced ears, a great portfolio and a good out for a long hike refreshes my vision attitude. He heavily weighs the attitude

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Member Profile: Mark Schneider be more true, as this is the only job Mark has had since high school.

From designs in nature, like one of his most recent and whimsical entries, a praying mantis, to a delicate ballerina, Schneider continues to enter the competition annually. According to Schneider, “It’s a crap shoot.” Having had the opportunity to serve as a judge, he does have keen insight on the rigorous judging process, the dynamics of working with industry experts and the constantly changing chemistry of the judges.

The Southern California artist’s style is influenced by architecture, furniture, sculpture and nature. He leans towards organic sweeping designs that are fairly simple but complex when finished. Schneider’s designs serve multiple purposes: form, function and a utilization of space. His beautiful gemstone sculptures exude quality. Schneider does, however, admit to being guilty of breaking his own rules.

The metal of choice for this talented designer to work in is 900 platinum. Schneider prefers platinum due to it beauty, luxurious AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning designer Mark Schneider polish, ease with setting gemstones and its lifelong durability. submitted his first piece into the competition in 1994. Since then, he has won a total of 26 Spectrum Awards. Schneider A firm believer in allowing the gemstones to “talk to him” before specializes in contemporary designs that are known for he creates a design, Schneider’s philosophy of jewelry design is their simple, clean, fluid lines and his discriminating taste in to create wearable art. His passion for unusual gemstones is well colored gemstones. served by his friendship with several award-winning gemstone cutters, such as Stephen Avery, Michael Dyber, Steve Walters When you have won as many times as Schneider, you have to and Glenn Lehrer. He appreciates their talent for bringing out the wonder what he does with all of the winning jewelry? Well, the beauty of the gemstone. This makes for a creative collaboration designs do get incorporated into his line, but he actually keeps where he adds his own unique signature to the gemstone to the original piece. Early on, his wife, Nancy, suggested that create his distinct design. “I look for gemstones that are most their daughters, Dana and Julie, each have a winning piece as a challenging— the ones with fire, intensity, saturation of color — keepsake. Then, when Mark won again, Nancy mentioned that and then I look for a different way to set it,” adds the designer. she needed her own keepsake as well. Moving forward, they Schneider’s favorite gemstone to work with is tanzanite, due made an agreement not to sell any winning pieces. to its beauty and various hues, with his preferred color being a deep blue. He also enjoys working with organic materials such as Mark Schneider grew up as a third generation jeweler. His pearls and ammolite. father started 63 years ago as a jobber. The company did not become interested in design and manufacturing until 1975. After Throughout the design process, Schneider is intimately involved his father passed away in 1981, Mark took his background in with every process from the design’s conception to the final business and art and applied it to his own designs. “I’ve been touches that make his pieces unique and distinguishable. The lucky; I have always known what I wanted to do.” This couldn’t same can be said for his Colors Collection. The gemstones direct

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Member Profile: Mark Schneider and tweak his imagination to create fashion forward jewelry. To view some of Mark Schneider’s Spectrum-winning designs, Schneider explains, “My designs are constantly moving and fit visit www.agta.org. into no particular niche.” To learn more about Schneider and his designs, visit him at AGTA Of course, when he is looking for materials, there is only one GemFair™ Tucson and www.markschneiderdesign.com. ▲ place to go— AGTA GemFair™ Tucson. Schneider has been attending GemFair Tucson as a shopper since 1985. He felt it was A. Spectrum 2001 a reputable source for color. In 1995, GemFair opened its doors to Spectrum Division 1 designers; Mark continued to be a shopper, as well as an exhibitor. Faceted Tahitian Pearl ring with Tsavorite and Opal inlay.

So what advice does an AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning B. Spectrum 2003 designer have for rookies? First, develop a distinctive brand and 2nd Place Evening Wear style. Second, establish a good framework for your business. Tanzanite ring. Schneider adds, “Get as much business knowledge as you can— it is not enough to just be an artist.” Lastly, enter the AGTA C. Spectrum 2005 Spectrum Awards™! “I owe a lot to the Spectrum Awards — it has Platinum Honors Business/Day Wear been a big part of my success,” admits Schneider. Emerald ring.

“The exposure from winning a D. Spectrum 2006 Spectrum Award is worth 3rd Place Business/Day Wear $100,000 in advertising!” Black drusy Onyx, a rutilated Quartz and Mandarin —Mark Schneider Garnet pendant.

A. B. C. D.

14 09.1068-AGTA ad.indd 1 1/15/09 4:56:09 PM PRISM|WINTER 2009

The Woman Behind the Spectrum Awards Trophies

Polly Gessell has been crafting the trophies for the AGTA At a young age, glass captured the imagination of the artist. Spectrum Awards™ since its inception in 1984. The trophies According to Gessell, “The magic still beckons me as I investigate are awarded to the best jewelry designers in the industry based and manipulate the glass of my craft. By accepting my carving, on workmanship, creativity, innovation and excellence. The texturing, and the subtleties of airbrushing, the flat, lifeless slabs of same can be said for the woman behind the trophies. Each glass seem to reveal a heretofore invisible heartbeat.” year, her creations leave the winners in awe. By being at that right place at the right time with then-AGTA Each sand-blasted and carved glass trophy is different. “Sometimes Executive Director Peggy Willett the relationship with AGTA was I think I don’t have any designs left in me, and then I wake up and born. Tons of glass later, the AGTA is still proud to have Polly there are some more,” reveals Gessell. Inspired by a kaleidoscope, Gessell create her special glass works of art for the Spectrum Gessell mimics the facets of a jewel to develop her designs. Award winners.

The trophy has not changed much over the past 25 years. One year Gessell’s works are found in private collections throughout the they were the shade of blue (see trophy at left), but for the most world. Her restaurant and hotel work is admittedly where her part they are the same basic configuration. Gessell says, “This is heart finds its greatest satisfaction because utility transmits to the most constant thing I have ever done, and it has helped me art. Her client list includes such luminaries as the restaurants of to become a better artist.” Her geometric and abstract style is set Barbara Lazaroff and Wolfgang Puck, Mary Kay Cosmetics, Rolex forth in sharp, clear-cut lines with great attention to details and is Corporation, American Airlines, the Four Seasons Hotels and the evident in all of the trophies created for the Awards. National Football League’s Houston Texans.

Something new that the winners of this year’s 25th Anniversary To learn more about Gessell and her designs, visit competition will notice is that the artist has placed the number 25 www.gessellstudios.net. ▲ somewhere in the design (see trophy at right).

16 PRISM|WINTER 2009

Picturesque Inclusions in Low Clarity Natural Colored Diamonds

By Marina Epelboym, Susan Paralusz, Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, Mark Cirkot and Dr. Lore Kiefert

Commercial quality, natural colored diamonds come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Diamonds manufactured in thin slices with flat facets have become increasingly popular in the past year and are readily available in the jewelry trade today.

The AGTA GTC had the opportunity to examine 25 of these natural colored diamonds with colors ranging from yellowish green to yellow, orange, brown, black, gray and near colorless.

Figure 2: Color zoning surrounding a large graphite crystal in These diamonds are highly included to the naked eye, primarily a 1.390 ct. bi-color near colorless and brown diamond gives with fractures and graphite inclusions. Upon examination, we the appearance of agate chalcedony. Photo: Marina Epelboym, noted that many of the inclusions were arranged in patterns ©AGTA GTC and presented picturesque scenes reminiscent of modern art or landscape agate or wherever your imagination takes you. The artistic inclusion scenes add to each diamond’s uniqueness. Several of the diamonds had a face-up, bi-color appearance due to inclusions and color zoning. A few of the diamonds contained intricate details that were best appreciated with a microscope. We hope you enjoy our photo array of these striking diamonds.

Figure 3: A Victorian tapestry patterned from numerous twin wisps and fissures is found in a 0.27 ct. diamond; it even looks tea stained. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC

Figure 1: These flat diamonds form part of a group analyzed by the AGTA GTC for an upcoming study to be presented at the GIT Conference in March 2009. The carat weights range from 2.944 ct. to 0.276 ct. (Diamonds courtesy of Lakhi Impex Inc., New York.) Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC Figure 4: A rose in full bloom formed from a centralized grouping of iron-stained fissures and particle clouds in a 0.76 ct. orange diamond. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC 17 PRISM|WINTER 2009

is used to analyze colored diamonds and to determine if the color is natural or due to artificial irradiation. The AGTA GTC’s Raman micro-spectroscopy unit is employed to examine colorless diamonds that are suspected of being decolored by High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) treatment. ▲

AGTA Members receive preferred pricing with the AGTA GTC. For current fees and other lab services, please contact: AGTA Gemological Testing Center 18 E. 48th St., Ste. 502 New York, NY 10017 Figure 5: Abstract art benefiting from the use of cleavage planes, 212-752-1717 T fractures and particle clouds formed in this 1.33 ct. irregular- 212-750-0930 F shaped diamond. Photo: Marina Epelboym, ©AGTA GTC www.agta-gtc.org [email protected]

New Members

Firm Members Kingstone Gem Importers, Ltd. dba / Avente’ Kourosh Khaloyan

Associated Industry Professionals NTR Metals, Inc. Don Giddens

Estate Jewelers Figure 6: Numerous fissures with heavy iron staining mix with D & E Singer, Inc. Diana Singer twin wisps to create free-form abstract art in a 0.72 ct. color zoned near colorless and orange diamond. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan- Introductory Members Coast Jewelry Designs Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC Heather Stoddard

Manufacturing Members Cicici, Inc. Yan Wang

Danuta, Inc. Danuta Alyassin

Erica Courtney Erica Courtney

Evelyn Clothier Jewelry Evelyn Clothier

Tanita Corporation Keith Ericson

Yael Designs Yehouda Saketkhou

Figure 7: A dog at play is fashioned from numerous reflecting Student Members iron-stained fissures in a 1.07 ct. triangular-shaped diamond. Barbara J. Eaton Celia Mamby Photo: Marina Epelboym, ©AGTA GTC Jimilea Marshall Jon Lieb Nancie Townsend Got diamonds? No problem. The AGTA Gemological Testing Paul Silagi Center can identify the nature of the apparent color, or lack of Robert M. Ihrig color, in a diamond. UV/visible low temperature spectroscopy 18 SOAR ABOVE THE COMPETITION.

JOIN AGTA TODAY. GET $200. Membership in the leading colored gemstone and cultured pearl Association, the AGTA, shows your customers that you are committed to the highest ethical standards. Take flight with this offer – see the AGTA Products Booth for more details.

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