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Home , Agate, Alex Meneses, Lapis lazuli, Moonstone (gemstone), Rhodolite, Ricardo Basta

VOL 3 – 2016

member profile Varouj Tabakian, by Varouj The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Judging the Competition Kaleidoscope of Colors: 2016 Summer AGTA Spectrum™ Awards Funny Lady Alex Meneses Gets Serious About Jewelry Origin of Pink firm profile James Alger, James Alger Co.

Alex Meneses Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with RaHul KadaKia. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman. Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company. Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise. Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant , but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem. Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available. Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at www.giA.eDU

GIA_PRISM_2013_FNL.indd 1 1/8/13 3:41 PM Membership Benefits

The American Gem Association is a not-for-profit association of United States and Canadian professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored and cultured pPearls. Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,200 members representing leading board of colored gemstone and cultured wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, directors designers, colored Diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals. AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing President to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics and full disclosure of gemstone Jeffrey Bilgore enhancements. Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC Vice President Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services: Bruce Bridges Members are eligible to exhibit at some of the most important annual events Bridges in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, Gerry Manning AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show, and AGTA Pavilions at the Manning International, Inc. JA New York Summer Show and The Smart Jewelry Show in . Secretary Cynthia Renée Members are featured in the AGTA Source Directory, both the printed and Cynthia Renée, Inc. online versions. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network Treasurer of fellow gemstone professionals. Over 15,000 copies are distributed! Pramod Agrawal Shanu G., Inc. Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry, Directors gemstone &and jewelry with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism. Charles Carmona Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include Guild Laboratories Inc. Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express®, FedEx Declared Value, Kusam Malhotra FedEx Office, Association Health Programs and car rentals with Avis and Budget. K&K International Jeff Mason Members can also access our AGTA Online Community and gain valuable Mason-Kay, Inc. knowledge from our AGTA GemFair™Tucson Seminar USBs and eLearning Bill Heher Platform. Rare Co., Inc. The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from Gina Latendresse American Pearl Company, Inc. the competition. Niveet Nagpal Omi Gems, Inc. Prism: For further information or to advertise, please contact: Robert Van Wagoner American Gem Trade Association Beija Flor Wholesale 3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840, Dallas, TX 75234 Avi Raz T: 800-972-1162 A & Z , Inc. F: 214-742-7334 Simon Watt [email protected] Mayer & Watt www.agta.org Larry www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com Jewels From The Woods

Past President COVER: Alex Meneses Ruben Bindra Photographer - Andrew MacPherson. Production and Styling - Tod Hallman B&B Fine Gems for Ivy Eleven. Hair - Steven Lewis for Exclusive Artist Management. Makeup - Agostina for Exclusive Artist Management. Manicurist - Jolene Brodeur for Ivy Chief Executive Officer Eleven. Dress: Kevan Hall – White Jersey Gown. 1: William Travis Ku- Douglas K. Hucker kovich, William Travis Jewelry - Oxidized and mixed featuring a American Gem Trade Association 4.74 ct. brown Diamond accented with rose cut Diamonds (.40 ctw.). Necklace 2(larger): Brian Cook, Nature’s Geometry - 24K yellow gold “Wheel of Light” numinous pendant featuring an 825 ct. , Paraiba , Hauyn, , spessartite , golden rutilated Quartz and fire beads. : Jorge Adeler, Adeler Jewelers - 18K yellow gold earrings featuring frosted black drops (28.53 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (.92 ctw.). : Lisa Linhardt, Linhardt Design - Oxidized “Tempest” sculptural duster ring featuring yellow . 1 From the president jeffrey bilgore

A SPECTRUM SUMMER 2016 With Labor Day and summer behind us, and the selling season before us I offer these thoughts. First, I hope everyone had a wonderful summer with their families. These good times are well….more precious than ! I also hope that we all share a very successful selling season. This summer we had a very successful change in the timing of the 2016 Summer AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Competition. This move had been long discussed by entrants and we finally addressed it. The motives and advantages are simple: 1) it allows entrants to submit their items out of the peak selling season; 2) it will encourage more entrants to enter and for them to enter even grander gems and jewelry; and 3) it will allow the Spectrum winners and the AGTA to promote the award-winning gems and jewelry for the selling season. Obviously, any adjustment like this is a challenge for the first year. I thank all of the AGTA Staff, the Judges, the Committee and the entrants for rising to the challenge! For the past 3 years, I have had the privilege to Chair the Spectrum Awards Committee. Any Chairman stands on the shoulders of all those who preceded them, and more on the shoulders of the AGTA Staff who actually do the hard work. Lastly, no Chairman acts alone; it is always the team effort of the Committee and the staff which makes the effort truly successful. I am sure that the new Committee Chairman, Cynthia Renee’, will continue and build upon the success. This year ended with some very rewarding comments expressed by Lew Wackler. Thank you, Lew; your feelings brought all the efforts full circle. Lew was introduced as a suggested judge by Stephen Avery and described as a kind of a “Yoda in America’s world.” When asked to be a Spectrum judge, Lew accepted but expressed an old “war story” about a less than wonderful Spectrum Competition experience. His comments on leaving Manhattan after the judging and AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Editors’ Event were…. “The competition is incredibly well-organized and executed. Judging was much harder than I expected, and the system is extremely fair to both the item and the entrant. I was very happy to see the range and quality of the gems and jewelry. It was also a great learning experience for me. I definitely encourage anyone, designer or cutter to enter the Competition. Winning is indeed, quite a meaningful accomplishment!” These comments coming from a guy like Lew, especially after the introduction and seeing him work, were so very meaningful. For the past three years all of the judges have shared similar comments. They all say what a positive experience it is, incredibly hard work, a great learning experience and how fair the system/process is to all of the “anonymous numbers” on the table. Beyond promotion, the goals these past three years have been: 1) to add to the structure and form of the rules and judging procedures; 2) to increase transparency by publishing the rules for everyone to see; and 3) to ensure an anonymous scoring system for the judges. Happily, all of these have been achieved. For everyone, AGTA members in all areas, I echo Lew’s encouragement to enter and participate in the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Ask any winner how it helps their business, it is a huge boost to anyone’s business and makes their family pretty proud, too!!! 32 years of success proves that - simply put – the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ is the most important gem and jewelry competition in the world.

Stayed tuned for information on the 2017 AGTA Spectrum Awards™!

Sincerely,

Jeffrey Bilgore President

2 From the president a most sincere and special thanks to:

Douglas Hucker, CEO AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Committee Members: David Baker, Membership & Education Manager Melanie Mondoy, Marketing Coordinator 2016 Summer AGTA Spectrum Awards™: Charles Murrell, CSR Representative Jeffrey Bilgore and Cynthia Renee – Co-Chairs Kami Swinney, Operations Manager Pramod Agrawal Megan Whitmire, Marketing Manager Larry Woods AGTA Staff 2016 AGTA Spectrum Awards™: The Judges: Jeffrey Bilgore – Chair Diane Garmendia, Retailer, 33 Jewels at El Paseo Pramod Agrawal Gail Brett-Levine, Appraiser, Cynthia Renee National Association of Appraisers Larry Woods Jay Mednikow, Retailer, J.H. Mednikow & Co., Inc. Victor Velyan, Designer / Manufacturer, 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™: Victor-Christy Studios Jeffrey Bilgore – Chair Lew Wackler, Lapidary, Lew Wackler Gem Co. Ruben Bindra Bruce Bridges 2016 AGTA Spectrum Awards™: Sushil Goyal Ronald W. Arends, Retailer/Designer, Aires Jewelers Benjamin Hackman Stephen M. Avery, Lapidarist, Stephen M. Avery Niveet Nagpal Dierdre Featherstone, Designer, Featherstone Design Avi Raz Lauren Kulchinsky, Retailer, Mayfair Rocks Simon Watt Aron Suna, Manufacturer, Suna Bros. 2014 AGTA Spectrum Awards™: 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™: Jeffrey Bilgore – Chair Jerrold Green, Lapidarist, Reginald C. Miller Ruben Bindra Myriam Gumuchian, Vice President & Director Bruce Bridges of Sales, Gumuchian Sushil Goyal Joseph Mardkha, Manufacturer, ColorMasters Benjamin Hackman Precious Jewelry Niveet Nagpal Tim McClelland, Master Jeweler and Designer, Avi Raz McTiegue & McClelland Simon Watt Larry Pelzel, Retailer, Neiman Marcus Dr. Jeffrey E. Post, Curator, U.S. National Gem & AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Committee Chairmen Collection, Smithsonian Institution – Present and Past: Jeffrey Bilgore 2014 AGTA Spectrum Awards™: Cynthia Renee Jennifer McCurry, Fine Jewelry Buyer/Retailer, Robert Bentley Marissa Collections Niveet Nagpal Jennie Ma, Fashion and Beauty Editor, The Knot John Buechner Barbara Heinrich, Manufacturer, Nanette Forester Barbara Heinrich Studio Barbara Lawrence John Hatleberg, Lapidarist, Big Gems Simon Watt Jose Hess, Designer, Fashion Institute of Technology James Alger Steve Taylor Brant Laird

3 From the CEO douglas k. hucker

Here we are again, just shaking off the grip of August with its numbing temperatures and sluggish business. Vacation is over, kids are back in school and the three-day Labor Day holiday is already dissolving into memory to be replaced by some serious days of labor. Just as the balmy days of summer seemed to crawl past like a lazy drift boat in a Mississippi backwater, you can bet that the final quarter of the year is going to come at us like Usain Bolt in the 100 meters. I am going to suggest that there are a few items that you can put on your to-do list that can positively impact your business.

Educate Get your staff up to speed on the color gemstones in your inventory. All effective sales associates understand that a good measure of success involves product knowledge. This understanding includes the attributes of the product, what motivates customers to make purchases, and proper wear-and-care considerations. Our AGTA online eLearning course on colored gemstones and cultured Pearls is designed to provide easy-to-understand basics for improving colored gemstone sales. It is free for all of our members for up to five employees and is well worth the price of $350 per year for non-members. If you want to immediately improve your employees’ colored gemstone presentation skills, contact us and let us help get you and your people signed up today.

Be Part of the Experience Start making your plans for GemFair Tucson now. If you have been coming to Tucson for the annual GemFair you know what an exceptional experience this trade show provides. Many of you (over 5,000 companies attend as buyers) know just how important attendance at AGTA GemFair™ can be to continued success in your colored gemstone and cultured Pearl departments. With the ongoing pressure on profit margins in other departments, colored gemstone jewelry represents a departure from the razor-thin profits generated elsewhere.

If you haven’t yet experienced AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, you should make plans to attend now. There is no better place to get your finger on the pulse of what is happening in the colored gemstones marketplace and, if you are like most first-time attendees, your parting remark will probably be “If I had known this show was like this I would have been coming long ago.”

A major feature of GemFair is obviously the sheer bounty of gemstones that you will see. Over 250 of our member companies display collectively the most extensive inventory of gemstones and cultured Pearls to be found anywhere in the world. If there are new sources of gemstones, or new varieties of gemstones discovered during the course of the year, they will be featured at GemFair. New cutting styles or inventive mounting techniques are always pre- miered at GemFair. But perhaps the most important asset you will discover at AGTA GemFair™ is the AGTA dealer members themselves. The collective knowledge of these experts is beyond value, and the conversations you will have with them, as you stroll from booth to booth, is an extraordinary opportunity to truly grow your understanding and broaden your expertise of gemstones.

Complementing this incredible assortment of gem materials are the dozens of custom designers and manufacturers who specialize in color and exhibit at GemFair to introduce their newest and most innovative designs. If the idea of loose gemstones seems daunting to you, just visit our CAD Pavilion where the designers will take your gemstone purchases and design a beautiful custom mounting for you on the spot! If you are comfortable making your own gemstone creations, visit the Tools and Technology Pavilion in the Ballroom to find the most up-to-date equipment and supplies you need.

Whether you are a seasoned veteran of AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, or considering coming for the first time, you will come away with an experience that enriches you and improves your bottom line. It’s an incredibly focused show with an extensive educational seminar program, daily networking opportunities, and spectacular weather. Did I men- tion what 75 degrees and sunny feels like in February? And if you love to eat, Tucson is the only city in the United States designated a City of Gastronomy by UNESCO (go on, Google it).

I will see you online, and hopefully, in Tucson!

Sincerely,

Douglas K. Hucker

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member profile varouj tabakian : jewelery by varouj

well-known jewelery designer and Tell us more about the person who in- manufacturer. At the shop where we troduced you to the jewelry industry and met, there were several craftsmen about your love for colored gemstones? who showed me what they were After my apprenticeship, at age 21, working on - filing, beating the I started my own business working gold, polishing, etc. It was the first out of my Brother’s jewellery store time I laid eyes on the most beau- in Salisbury, Rhodesia. Once I com- tiful gemstones and jewellery and it pleted my National Service in the was love at first sight! army at the age of 24, I decided to I decided to decline joining my leave Rhodesia and go to for Uncle and his friend at the beach a better future. and asked to stay at the workshop. I worked briefly in I was mesmerized watching the and Paris, before settling in London, designers and working England, where as a freelancer, I was at the bench. I asked if I could work welcomed by many prominent jewel- recently had the opportunity there and to the delight of my lery stores in Knightsbridge. A high- I to question an exceptional jew- family, I started the next day. light for me was being commissioned eler, multi-award winner, and proud to make a free-form 3 diamond Tell us about your journey from your member of The American Gem ring for Sir Elton John, which I beginning in the jewelry business to Trade Association, Varouj Tabakian. created from beginning to end. today. Where you trained as a jeweler, etc. After a few years, I decided once Will you share about yourself, where you to today. again to take a chance to further grew up, and your family today? After six months of strictly observ- my career and provide me with the Born in Beirut, Lebanon to Arme- ing, I was allowed to sit at the bench lifestyle I dreamed of and moved to nian parents, I spent my childhood with the group and begin to learn . While I initially worked for growing up in what was considered hands-on the process of jewellery a well-known company in Toronto, the “Jewel of the Middle East”. making. This only lasted a year, but it it wasn’t long that my talent was Life was wonderful there until at was long enough for me to know I being recognized and I was encour- the age of eleven when my father wanted to pursue this career path. In aged to open my own workshop, passed away suddenly. Because of 1965, when my family immigrated Jewellery by Varouj in 1978. I was on the difficulty understanding and to Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), I was my own, free to design and explore accepting this as a child, I became sixteen and lucky enough to find the all the beautiful coloured gemstones an unruly young adolescent. Out of best workshop to begin my career. I that I loved! desperation, my mother, older broth- was with the very best craftsmen and er and sister, enrolled me into the artisans. They were Swiss, Greek, Who were your early mentors in the local monastery! After nine months German, Italian and South African colored gemstone / jewelry trade? I was rejected and the priests sent – all masters of the trade. They took I will be forever grateful to the me home! So many years later, we’d me under their wing and I began my handful of master craftsmen in laugh about this and it has become a apprenticeship. This is where my true Rhodesia, who took me as a young favourite story for my family today – love and passion of jewellery apprentice and trained me with the my wife Susan and two young adult design began. Below: Colored very best skills required in making children, Melissa and Justin. Gemstone Collection beautiful, fine jewellery. It was a foundation that has lasted me a Tell us the fascinating story of how you lifetime. got your start in the jewelry industry. I was fourteen when I was first introduced to jewellery, completely by accident. My Uncle was taking me to the beach one day and on route, picked up a friend who was a

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What initially attracted you to AGTA? most people are fas- Below: 18k Black cheeks, kissed him and I was first introduced to AGTA at cinated to hear. I am Druzy Onyx and returned home happy and their booth in Tucson several years very proud to give my Diamond Pendant excited to start my new ago. I had always known of the clients the story behind creation. association from a distance and it’s the creations in my col- integrity within the trade, but this lection or of their own special Whom have you admired in the was my first experience face to face custom-made piece. colored gemstone industry? with someone from the AGTA. I have the greatest admiration for Tell us about Jewellery by Varouj today. What simply started as a friendly stonecutters like Wobito Gems, John Who works with you in your store? hello soon became a desire that I Dyer, or Munsteiner, who bring out I have always had, and continue to wanted to be a part of this great the life and excitement in a gem. have the good fortune to be sur- organization and benefit from the rounded by amazing artisans and You are a citizen of the World. What is knowledge and support offered. I craftsmen who have worked your favorite city? appreciate all that the AGTA stands with me over the years. They I love travelling and have spent for. I am proud to be a member know my work ethic, my a lifetime seeing the world with such an elite group of industry passion, my obsession with from Europe, to , professionals. high quality workmanship , and the What is your favorite colored gemstone? and materials, and support United States and have ex- And why? me in every way. Then perienced many beautiful Although I see beauty in most there’s my dream team of cities, however, I am always coloured gemstones, I am most in- my wife Susan and store grateful to be coming fatuated with Garnet. The manager Eldon, who have home to my favourite city, rich warmth of its Bordeaux like worked along side me for Toronto. The diversity here colour, especially when custom cut, the past twenty years, keeping is ever changing, always inter- can cause me to stare at it for hours me totally grounded while always esting and with the added blessing dreaming of my next creation. I also supporting my dreams. of four distinct seasons, provides love that it is a unisex gemstone constant fuel for my imagination. What has your membership with the where the possibilities are endless. AGTA meant for/to you? What is your favorite hotel? During your activity and involvement My membership with the AGTA My favourite stay was at Le Chateau in jewelry industry what changes to the has provided my business with a Frontenac. It is the most beautiful, trade have you witnessed? Also, how are backbone of knowledge along with romantic hotel overlooking the his- you guiding your firm to meet today’s a wealth of suppliers and industry toric St. Lawrence River and quaint challenges? professionals that I can rely on. streets of Old . A wonderful Colour enhanced stones and sythet- second honeymoon! What is your favorite colored gemstone ic stones have been a game changer “Tucson Story”? What is your favorite restaurant? in the industry. It is through our A few years ago, I was looking for While touring the coast, continued learning and knowl- seven perfectly matching I absolutely love experiencing the edge that allows us to educate our cut Blue Ceylon Sap- many excellent Mexican restaurants customers on where to find phires for a spectacular we visited. value in genuine diamond and What was your best meal ever? gemstones Left: that I was com- 18K Blue , and at One of my most memorable meals missioned to make. I had , Pink Sapphire the was in Paris, when Susan and I had exhausted every supplier in and Diamond Below: a fabulous dinner of Chateaubriand Canada and the US and went so 18K Free-form for two! far as to try to locate them in . and 18K Diamond Several weeks later, I decided to take Cuff What is your favorite off-the-beaten-path same this quest to Tucson. Here, I came destination? time, upon a supplier who listened pa- We took a side trip to Sedona one offer tiently while I described the critical year after the Tucson show and I was alter- issues for me with matching height, fascinated by the glorious red rock! natives width, depth and colour perfectly. that Tell us something about yourself that Within minutes he was presenting suit their needs. most people don’t know. me a parcel with exactly what I had I am a true romantic who is passion- Please share your been looking for! I grabbed both his ate about everything I do. I have a thoughts on responsible sourcing and so- genuine love of life; love cial responsibility in the colored gemstone of my work; and my industry. family is everything. Trust is the foundation from which I have built my business. I have By David Baker, GG, always sourced gemstones from the AGTA Membership & most ethical, reliable and responsible Education Manager suppliers in the industry. Designing jewellery begins with a history that

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kaleidoscope of colors: 2016 summer agta spectrum awards™

he 2016 Summer AGTA winners can be anything off the tables, T Spectrum Awards™ collection “It was a pleasure and a privilege whether category winners or not. sparkled in a kaleidoscope of colors, as There were a couple that were entrants presented their best and most to be a part of the 2016 AGTA unanimously chosen from the colorful creations for consideration; ™ get-go, and others that required much the result – a stunning array of colors Spectrum Awards event. It was deliberation – hearing the different from pale and sweet, to bold and a daunting task to review a roomful points of views from experts in their brilliant. The 2016 Summer AGTA fields is fascinating and a learning Spectrum Awards™ winners truly of jewelry from talented designers experience for even the most seasoned represented the spectrum of color! industry veteran!” The competition was judged by an with such a diverse approach to AGTA Spectrum Awards™ entries equally colorful group of experts - were judged on the basis of overall Diane Garmendia, 33 Jewels at their craft in promoting the use of beauty and wearability, innovative El Paseo; Gail Brett Levine, Executive design, effective use of materials, Director of the National Association colored gemstones and pearls. quality of gemstones, quality of of Jewelry Appraisals; Jay Mednikow, workmanship, broad-based consumer J.H. Mednikow & Co.; Victor Rings and abounded appeal and potential to generate Velyan, Victor-Christy Studios; and with technical skill combined with positive publicity for natural Lew Wackler, Lew Wackler Gem colored gemstones. The AGTA Company. This outstanding group color sensitivity; precision cut Cutting Edge Awards™ honor worked tirelessly for two days, excellence and creativity in lapidary scoring and calculating, and eventually unmounted gemstones vied , including natural colored discussing their top choices for each gemstones and cultured pearls, of the categories, culminating in this for your attention - carvings and other gem materials and year’s winners. “Perhaps the most were judged on the basis of quality interesting part of the judging it was very difficult to of lapidary work, technique, quality/ process is to listen to the judges select rarity of gem material, overall beauty the ‘Best of’ Awards,” said Douglas decide with such bounty.” and originality of design. K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. “The ‘Best of’ Gail Brett Levine Rounding out the weekend was the

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“As a fashion stylist for years diamonds were the preferred jewelry accessory. But as fashion is experiencing a big shift and women want to be able to wear their jewelry for work and pleasure, colored gemstones are quickly becoming the hot ac- cessory of choice. With colored gemstone jewelry women have more versatility and options that can carry them from day to night.” annual AGTA Spectrum Awards™ trends in fashion and color that we’ll Tod Hallman, THPFashion Editors’ Event where the entire see for the next year, “said Hucker. collection was previewed by consumer “And what a fantastic way to showcase and trade press, bloggers and stylists. these beautiful designs, than on these “It was a great year with new faces two incredibly talented women!” attending the event! The editorial The 2016 Summer AGTA feedback we received was that the Spectrum Awards™ winners can be AGTA Spectrum Awards™ always seen at the upcoming 2017 AGTA delivers a stellar American gem GemFair™ Tucson show, January 31 – designer trend snapshot,” stated John February 5, at the Tucson Convention Maroney, of John Maroney Public Center. Winners will be celebrated Relations & Marketing. “It is a luxury at the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ stop that is not to be missed!” Gala on February, 4, 2017 at the Many of the stunning winners were Marriott University Park Hotel in showcased in the AGTA Celebrity Tucson. For more information Photo Shoot featuring the stunning regarding the AGTA Spectrum Holly Robinson Peete, and rising Awards™ competition, please contact star Annie Ilonzeh. The pictures will Megan Whitmire at [email protected] debut in 2017 Volume 1 of Prism. “It’s or (800) 972-1162. fascinating to see how the Spectrum By Kami S. Swinney, Operations Manager winners for this year translate into the “As one of the five industry judges that had the pleasure to closely inspect near 450 wonderful en- tries from some of the best gems and jewelry craftsmen on this continent; I was honored and truly impressed with the overall quality of work. This contest is a must- do for multiple reasons whether you’re a small studio shop or large jewelry firm to advertise and test your mettle.” Lew Wackler

12 2016 SUMMER AGTA SPECTRUM AWARDS™

celebrating color... The 2016 Summer AGTA Spectrum Awards ™ and AGTA Cutting Edge Awards™ are a showcase of individual creativity featuring new and seasoned talent with an exciting mix of innovation and tradition. These winners – and all our participants – help promote the beauty and appeal of colored gemstones and cultured pearls. We are proud to present this year’s winning entries – and extend our most sincere congratulations!

1st Place and Best of Show Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems Suite of round, brilliant Russian (24.67 ctw.).

Spectrum Photos taken by Brian Moghadam Photography

13 BEST OF...

A. Best Use of Pearls Judy Evans Oliver & Espig Gallery of Fine Arts pendant featuring a 13.44mm golden South Sea cultured Pearl accented with Diamonds.

B. Best Use of Color Derek Katzenbach Katzenbach Designs 14K white gold ring featuring a 4.97 ct. bicolored Tourmaline A. accented with tsavorite Garnets, and Diamonds (.69 ctw.).

C. Editors’ Choice Ricardo Basta E. Eichberg, Inc. B. 18K rose gold ring featuring two sugarloaf (23.26 ctw.) accented with Opal, tsavorite Garnets (1.71 ctw.) and Diamonds (.06 ctw.).

C.

14 Jay Mednikow, J.H. Mednikow & Co., Inc.

Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org AGTA Office: 800-972-1162 – [email protected] #AGTAGemFair17 BEST OF...

D. Fashion Forward Lorenzo Chavez Geogem-USA Platinum and 18K yellow and rose gold “Gift From the Abyss” pendant featuring a 124.73 ct. carved Kunzite accented with blue and Diamonds (.82 ctw.).

E. Best Use of Platinum and Color Kathy Kinev Jewel Creations, Inc. Platinum “St. Chapelle” ring featuring Rubies, Sapphires, tsavorite Garnets and blue and D. white Diamonds.

E.

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BRIDAL sponsored by the knot

A. 1st Place and Platinum Honors Ricardo Basta E. Eichberg, Inc. Platinum “Royal Blue” ring featuring a 12.00 ct. blue Sapphire accented with Diamonds (2.59 ctw.). The ring features a A. detachable 18K yellow gold “Quilt” jacket featuring accented with Diamonds (.43 ctw.) and tsavorite Garnets (.16 ctw.).

B. 2nd Place Alexia Connellan Alexia Connellan Luxury Jewelry Platinum “Regency” earrings featuring mint Tourmalines (8.63 ctw.) B. accented with Diamonds (2.50 ctw.).

C. 3rd Place Caroline Chartouni Caroline C 18K white gold earrings featuring red C. (2.21 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (5.01 ctw.).

18 PGIAd_v5_PRINT.indd 1 9/7/2016 1:32:08 PM BRIDAL sponsored by the knot

D. E. D. Gem Diva Award Heena Chheda Shah Real Gems, Inc. 18K white gold “Rosalyn” earrings featuring eight pear-shaped (15.89 ctw.) accented with fancy and round Diamonds (3.49 ctw.).

E. Honorable Mention Samuel Sulimanov Samuel Sylvio Designs 18K white gold earrings featuring Paraiba Tourma- lines (3.0 ctw.) accented with Paraiba Tourmaline melee (.68 ctw.) and Diamonds. F.

F. Honorable Mention Jessica Neiwert Jessica Nei 18K rose gold “Snow Blossom” convertible earrings featuring lavender (13.50 ctw.) accented with Moon- E. stones (1.66 ctw.), pink Sapphires (.41 ctw.), (.29 ctw.) and Diamonds (.54 ctw.).

G. G. Manufacturing Honors Dennis de Jonghe deJonghe Original Jewelry Platinum ring featuring a 2.20 ct. Aquamarine accented with Diamonds (0.40 ctw.). H.

H. Platinum Innovation William Travis William Travis Jewelry Platinum band featuring blue Sapphires (.54 ctw.), cognac Di- amonds (.18 ctw.) and colorless Diamonds (.18 ctw.).

20 k THE #1 DESTINATION for inspiring couples and helping them nd their dream engagement ring and bridal jewelry.

DID YOU KNOW? 67% of brides research engagement rings before the proposal. Ashley Leslie Photography; Source: The Knot Jewelry & Engagement Study 2015 Study Jewelry & Engagement The Knot Source: Photography; Leslie Ashley

CONTACT THE KNOT AND START CONNECTING WITH COUPLES!

Designer Opportunities: Northern US: Southern US: Rachel Jackson Nikki Spangler Danielle Wilson [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] (404) 597-3955 (877) 771-3019 (844) 848-4639

TK_AGTAPrintAd_9x12_v2.indd 1 9/8/16 1:16 PM BUSINESS/DAY WEAR

A. 1st Place Ricardo Basta A. E. Eichberg, Inc. 18K yellow gold and platinum “Honey” ring featuring a 13.58 ct. Heliodor accented with Sapphires (.82 ctw.) and Diamonds (.96 ctw.).

B. 2nd Place T. Foster & Co, Fine Jewelers T. Foster & Co, Fine Jewelers 18K yellow gold and B. platinum ring featuring a 22.93 ct. orange Sapphire accented with Diamonds.

C. 3rd Place Zoltan David Zoltan David, LLC and 22K yellow gold ring featuring a 4.12 ct. Danburite accented with blue Sapphires (.42 ctw.).

C.

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BUSINESS/DAY WEAR

D. Platinum Innovation Jill Maurer Jill Maurer D. Platinum “Verge” ring featuring a 11.19 ct. golden accented with natural colored Diamonds (1.23 ctw.).

E. Gem Diva Award Naomi Sarna Naomi Sarna Designs 18K palladium white gold “Confetti Heart” ring featuring multi- colored Diamonds, E. Sapphires, Rubies and Amethysts.

F. Honorable Mention Shuang Feng Fon Shon Jewellery & Design 14K white gold with 18K rose gold ring featuring an oval F. Morganite accented with Diamonds.

24 BUSINESS/DAY WEAR

G. Honorable Mention Patrick King Jewelsmith 14K white and yellow gold pendant featuring a 31.94 ct. lemon Quartz accented with a 2.96 ct. Opal and Diamonds (.15 ctw.). G. H. Manufacturing Honors Llyn Strong llyn strong fine 18K yellow gold earrings featuring bezel-set Rubies (1.56 ctw).

I. Platinum Honors John Ford Lightning Ridge Collection by John Ford Platinum “Mirror” ring featuring a H. 3.65 ct. black Opal accented with Diamonds (.69 ctw.).

I.

25 CLASSICAL

A. 1st Place Niveet Nagpal Omi Gems, Inc. A. 18K rose gold ring featuring a 4.01 ct. cushion-cut pink accented with Spinel melee (.52 ctw.), Diamond melee (.82 ctw.) and a .01 ct. Alexandrite.

B. 2nd Place Niveet Nagpal Omi Gems, Inc. Platinum and black ring featuring three Alexandrites (6.99 ctw.) accented with Alexandrite melee D. (1.64 ctw.) and Dia- B. monds (.91 ctw.).

C. 3rd Place Alexia Connellan Alexia Connellan Luxury Jewelry 18K rose gold “” earrings featuring Morganites (9.50 ctw.) accented with Akoya cultured Pearls (8.02 ctw.), Sapphires (1.08 ctw.) and Diamonds (.85 ctw.).

D. Manufacturing Honors Dominique Israileff ASBA USA, INC. C. 14K rose gold pendant featuring a 13mm Tahitian cultured Pearl accented with Dia- monds (.37 ctw.).

26

CLASSICAL

E. Honorable Mention and Gem Diva Award Heena Chheda Shah Real Gems, Inc. 18K white gold “Bridget” ring featuring a 3.08 ct. oval Ruby accented with round Rubies (.31 ctw.) and round and pear Diamonds (3.87 ctw.).

F. Platinum Honors Zoltan David Zoltan David, LLC Platinum pendant featuring a 35.63 ct. F. marquis set in blue patina on a strand of cabochon Moonstones (18.20 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.20 ctw.). E. G. Platinum Innovation and Honorable Mention Lindsay Jane Lindsay Jane Designs Platinum ring featuring a 7.77 ct. Moonstone accented with and blue Sapphires (0.97 ctw.). and Diamonds (0.52 ctw.).

G.

28

EVENING WEAR

A. A. 1st Place David Gross David Gross Group Platinum necklace featuring 21 unheated Rubies (29.33 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (21.61 ctw.).

B. 2nd Place Phillip Dismuke Jewelsmith 18K yellow gold and platinum ring featuring a 13.53 ct. black Opal accented with Sap- phires (1.01 ctw.) and Diamonds (.07 ctw.).

B.

30 EVENING WEAR

C. C. 3rd Place Robert Pelliccia J.R. Dunn Jewelers 18K yellow and white gold pendant featuring a 23.94 ct. boulder Opal accented with blue and pink Sapphires (.58 ctw.) and Diamonds (.92 ctw.) on a black Di- amond bead necklace.

D. Gem Diva Award Alexia Connellan Alexia Connellan Luxury Jewelry Platinum “The Fringe” earrings featuring bicolored Tourmalines (20.32 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (1.50 ctw.).

D.

31 EVENING WEAR

E. Platinum Honors E. John Ford Lightning Ridge Collection by John Ford Platinum “Electric Blue” necklace featuring black Opal (197.0 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (6.27 ctw.).

F. Honorable Mention Sinork Agdere Lord Jewelry G. 18K yellow gold and platinum “Ballerina” ring featuring a 65.0 ct. specialty-cut lemon Citrine accented with Diamonds and enamel.

G. Manufacturing Honors Llyn Strong llyn strong fine art jewelry 18K rose gold “Calla F. Lily” ring featuring a 5.17 ct. rose-cut green Tourmaline accented with Diamonds (0.03 ctw).

H. Honorable Mention Erica Courtney Erica Courtney, Inc. 18K yellow gold “Easter Egg” ring featuring a 7.46 ct. Paraiba Tourmaline accented with Paraiba Tourmalines (1.09 ctw.) and Dia- H. monds (2.45 ctw.).

32

MEN’S WEAR

A. 1st Place and Platinum Honors A. Mark Schneider Mark Schneider Design Platinum and 18K yellow gold ring featuring a 8.76 ct. Maw Sit Sit accented with black, white and yellow Diamonds (2.27 ctw.) and tsavorite Garnets (.93 ctw.).

B. 2nd Place B. William Travis William Travis Jewelry Silver and 18K yellow gold ring a featuring 17.67 ct. carved beetle accented with orange Sapphires (.96 ctw.).

C. 3rd Place Craig Slavens Studio 247 Fine Jewelry Carbon fiber, platinum and C. 18K rose gold ring featuring a 4.52 ct. unheated Padparadscha Sapphire accented with Diamonds (.39 ctw.).

D. Honorable Mention William Travis William Travis Jewelry Platinum band featuring blue Sapphires (.54 ctw.), cognac Diamonds (.18 ctw.) and colorless Diamonds (.18 ctw.).

D.

34

AGTA CUTTING EDGE™ AWARDS CLASSIC CUT

A. 1st Place A. B. Ruben Bindra B & B Fine Gems 10.11 ct. Sri Lankan cushion-cut orange Sapphire.

B. 2nd Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. 20.03 ct. unheated emerald-cut yellow Sapphire. C. D. C. 3rd Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. 15.01 ct. emerald-cut blue Sapphire.

D. Honorable Mention Ruben Bindra B & B Fine Gems 7.22 ct. cushion-cut Padparadscha Sapphire. ALL OTHER FACETED

A. 1st Place Jeffrey Hapeman A. B. Earth’s Treasury LLC 42.47 ct. brilliant square cushion specialty-cut .

B. 2nd Place Maxim Stepanov Nomad’s 12.44 ct. square cush- ion tsavorite Garnet.

C. 3rd Place C. D. Ambassador Gems Ambassador Gems 24.12 ct. cushion-cut blue Zircon.

D. Honorable Mention Hemant Phophaliya A G Color, Inc. 48.62 ct. sugarloaf 36 programs As a proud partner with individual & group health insurance Association Health Programs, (private & government on and off exchange) AGTA is pleased to offer you short term health insurance an exclusive suite of health and business insurance solutions. AHP medicare supplements & part d prescriptions represents more than 300 national long term care insurance associations and 2.5 million members providing A-rated disability income insurance insurance companies, product dental & vision insurance knowledge, rate stability, buying power and hands-on service. business owner’s insurance general liability

We invite you to compare your professional liability present insurance programs with property insurance those of AHP. workers compensation auto liability AHP can assist you with both home based insurance private policies (off exchanges) and government exchanges. newest offering: graphic design Contact AHP directly at (logos, websites, ads, flyers, videos) 888.450.3040 or the AGTA *in addition to: critical illness, accident insurance, office at 800.972.1162. accidental death and dismemberment insurance and more! AGTA CUTTING EDGE™ AWARDS PHENOMENAL

A. A. B. 1st Place Gil Gil Int’l 5.56 ct. untreated Alexandrite.

B. 2nd Place Robert Shapiro Robert Shapiro 10.05 ct. oval boulder Opal.

C. C. D. 3rd Place Manu Nichani Blue Moon Ent. 19.07 ct. royal blue rectangular, cushion-cut Moonstone.

D. Honorable Mention Robyn Dufty DuftyWeis , Inc. 103.80 ct. cabochon boulder Opal. PAIRS & SUITES

A. A. 1st Place and Best of Show Ruben Bindra B & B Fine Gems Suite of round, brilliant Russian demantoid Garnets (24.67 ctw.).

B. 2nd Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. Suite of pear-shaped unheated Mozambique Rubies (18.77 ctw.).

C. 3rd Place Ben Kho Kho International, Ltd. Suite of round Rhodo- chrosite (17.26 ctw.).

D. Honorable Mention Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. suite of oval pink and unheated purple Sapphires (17.23 ctw.).

B.

C. D.

39 AGTA CUTTING EDGE™ AWARDS INNOVATIVE FACETING A. 1st Place John Dyer A. John Dyer & Co. 80.29 ct. specialty-cut .

B. 2nd Place John Dyer John Dyer & Co. 175.37 ct. deep concave cushion-cut Morganite titled “Mozambique Sunset.”

C. 3rd Place Ryan Joseph Anderson B. Ryan Joseph Gems 89.41 ct. Amethyst, titled “Efflorescence.”

D. Honorable Mention Glenn Lehrer Lehrer Designs, Inc. 30.79 ct. Danburite and a 1.03 ct. Ruby titled “KaleidosCut.” When placed together, they create an 8-pointed star in the C. Danburite.

D.

40 CARVING A. 1st Place Naomi Sarna A. Naomi Sarna Designs Hand-carved Ametrine (297 ctw.).

B. 2nd Place John Dyer John Dyer & Co. Aquamarine carving titled ‘Sydney Symphony” (53.63 ctw.).

C. 3rd Place Meg Berry Mega Gem B. 21.70 ct. Garnet titled “Rooster.”

D. Honorable Mention Naomi Sarna Naomi Sarna Designs Rutilated Quartz carving (1375 ctw.).

C.

D.

41 AGTA CUTTING EDGE™ AWARDS OBJECTS OF ART A. Honorable Mention Neda Behnam Samuel B. Collection 18K yellow gold A. B. “Stallion” statue fea- turing champagne Diamonds (7.81 ctw.) accented with tsavorite Garnets and Mother-of- Pearl on an Onyx base.

B. Honorable Mention Brenda Smith Brenda Smith Jewelry “Light My Fire” object of art featuring Opalized (250 ctw.) accented with a hand-carved 75.0 ct. flame, 40.0 ct. hand-carved Mexican fire Opal and Diamonds (.20 ctw.).

lex Meneses recently starred as Isabela Santamaria silver and mixed gold, the piece won “Best Use of Silver on NBC’s comedy Telenovela, an over-the-top, and Color.” Spanish-language, soap opera diva, whose Also special to Meneses were the magnificent earrings bitterness over being booted into the mother role of a created by Bella Campbell of Campbellian, Morristown, Ayounger leading lady is unleashed on her castmates. She’s NJ. Composed of blue-green Tourmalines (17.05 ct.) and a hoot to play for the half-Mexican-American actress, Emeralds (4.14 ct.) set in 18K pink gold, the “Best Use of especially when Isabela’s antics are carried out in huge Color” winner showcases Meneses’ favorite gemstone hair, 6-inch stilettos and a ladies-who-lunch wardrobe colors: green and blue.“They made me feel like a princess,” topped in showy jewelry. Her performance was critically Meneses says. “They were playful and beautiful.” acclaimed, and earned her a Best Supporting Actress Of all the green and blue gemstones, Emerald is the nomination for an Imagen Award. top choice for Meneses. She’s such a fan, in fact, that her But unlike her comedic character, the down-to-earth most memorable jewelry experience is buying herself a Meneses, first embraced by audiences as Teresa Morales on white gold ring set with a 12.0-carat emerald-cut Colom- Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman, has a much more refined bian Emerald, after thieves broke into her home and stole eye for jewelry, making her an ideal celebrity spokeswom- all of her jewels. an for the 2016 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Collection. “Three years into my marriage, we were robbed,” Now in its 32nd year, the annual Spectrum competi- Meneses says. “They took all of my jewelry. The ring was tion, sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association a gift to myself [after the incident]. It was ginormous and (AGTA), is North fabulous, a favorite America’s premier piece.” fine-jewelry design- While Meneses’ contest for natural Emerald ring could colored gemstones surely captivate from and cultured Pearls. across the room, the “I’m a Pearl per- Funny Lady , NCIS and son,” says the Chicago Prison Break alum native, who earned prefers a little less American Comedy flash in her everyday Award and ALMA Alex Meneses wardrobe. She opts Award nominations to wear maybe a few for her role as Robert rings, and almost Barone’s luscious certainly a . A Italian love interest, Gets Serious men’s Rolex with Stefania Fogagnolo, Diamond accents and on Everybody Loves a leather strap is a Raymond, and starred favorite, as is a Harry opposite Greg Kin- About Jewelry Winston timepiece near in Auto Focus, chock-full of Dia- a New York Film Critics Circle Award winner. “I have a monds. “It’s like a dessert,” she says. string of Pearls that I’ve had forever and wear all the time. But when it comes to black-tie affairs, Meneses has a more I even wore them as a teenager. I also had a double-strand “anything goes” attitude about jewelry. Perhaps that comes necklace of gold Pearls with a Diamond clasp that I loved.” from dressing up in mom’s jewelry as a little girl, some- Perhaps that’s why a Pearl necklace caught the former thing Meneses’ young daughter now does with hers. model’s eye during her photo shoot with the collection. “We couldn’t afford expensive jewelry when I was Designed by Naomi Sarna of New York City–based young,” Meneses recalls. “But my mother was a model in Naomi Sarna Designs, the necklace, which won “Best Use the ’50s, a real fashionista. She loved fashion jewelry, and I of Pearls” in the competition, features cultured freshwater loved dressing up in it.” Pearls in warm hues of peach and pink, with a As a TV, film and stage actress, the president and gold and Diamond clasp and matching pendant. founder of her own production company, and a tireless Meneses was equally as enthralled with the rest of philanthropist dedicated to such causes as United Hope the collection, telling the AGTA how astonished she was for Animals and the Children’s Hospital Los Angeles—for by the beauty of the colored gemstones and the inno- which she’s been a board member for 11 years and raised vativeness of the designs. She gushed about another of millions of dollars—Meneses has plenty of opportunities Sarna’s pieces—a necklace composed of Turquoise-bead now to play dress up in real life, and does so in jewelry strands (814.0 ct.) intermingled with 18K yellow gold appropriate for the occasion. and Diamond rondelles—describing it as “face-bright- “I tend to wear black to gala events, which I usually ening” and “feeling good to wear.” She also mentioned accent with Diamonds. That’s dressy to me,” Meneses says. the crescent-shaped pendant necklace created by William “But the jewelry really depends on the event and the out- Travis Kukovich of William Travis Jewelry, Chapel Hill, fit. I just have fun with it.” NC, saying it’s “so beautiful” and something she’d “never For a woman who gives us so many laughs and brings seen before.” Spotlighting a 4.74-carat brown Diamond joy to so many in need, we would expect nothing less. accented with rose-cut Diamonds (.40 ct.) set in oxidized By Jerilynn Kraus

44 Photographer - Andrew Macpherson Produced and Styled by Tod Hallman for Ivy Eleven Hair - Steven Lewis f or Exclusive Artist Management Makeup - Agostina for Exclusive Artist Management Manicurist - Jolene Brodeur for Ivy Eleven Dress: Herve Leger - Navy Gown (Available at Saks Fifth Avenue) Necklace: Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs - Strand of freshwater baroque cultured Pearls with 18K white gold and Diamonds and a freshwater baroque cultured Pearl pendant.

45 Origin of Pink Diamonds

Right (Figure 1): Rare Fancy intense Purplish Pink diamonds from Argyle, Australia. Courtesy of Rio Tinto Diamonds, Perth

46 A. B.

Are they from Argyle,

Canada, Laboratory C. D. or Elsewhere?

ancy coloured diamonds, especially reds and North American jewelers are increasingly using Left (Figure 2): pinks, are breaking all records for price paid small pinks in their designs (particularly in sizes ranging Identification of small per carat at major auctions in 2016. More from 0.01 to 0.20 carats) and larger pink diamonds have pink diamonds, natural, than 90 per cent of the world’s supply of pink gained popularity as an investment vehicle in world treated and synthetic natural diamonds are mined from a single markets. In this article we will review screening and with Photolumines- source - Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine in North identification techniques for natural, treated and syn- cence method based Western Australia. This mine has produced large quan- thetic pink diamonds and present some preliminary re- on different reaction tities of diamonds since 1985, the majority of which search data on Australian and Canadian pink diamonds. under LW UV Lamp. are marketed as ‘champagne’ and ‘cognac’ brownish Identification of Pink Diamonds Processed or F A. diamonds, and less than 0.1% of diamonds produced Made in a Laboratory HPHT synthetic, exhibit some pink coloration. Because pink / red colored diamonds are among the irradiated, annealed pink Operations at Argyle mine are currently under- rarest of all, many techniques have been developed to ground and the mine’s production life is expected to change the color of natural diamonds to pink or in B. Natural pink, natural run until approximately 2020. This limitation, com- some instances to grow diamonds in a laboratory and colour from Argyle, bined with the rarity of pink diamonds, is part of the treat them to effect a pink coloration. Off-color natural Australia reason for skyrocketing prices in last 5 years. At this or synthetic diamonds can be irradiated and heated time there is a 15 to 30 per cent premium on pink to produce a pink color; HPHT (High Pressure High C. Natural, HPHT treat- diamonds with proven Argyle origin (Figure 1, page XX) Temperature) process can also be used, either on its ed, irradiated, annealed and efforts of CGL-GRS lab in Canada and GRS labs own or in combination with irradiation and anneal- pink in Hong Kong and Bangkok are currently focused on ing to create pink colored diamonds. The initial job establishing a means of confirming or establishing their of gemologists is to screen pink diamonds for natural, D. Natural, irradiated original source. treated or synthetic origin using standard instruments: and annealed pink

47 I. UV lamp - under LWUV with an international team on the presented to Queen Elizabeth II) light natural pink diamonds do characterization of pink diamonds - in 1947 from kimberlite. either not fluoresce or show of different origins (ref. 3). It found • Congo *(Katanga Province, a blue reaction depending on that Argyle stones exhibit typical Kasai) - from rivers in mid- whether it is a Canadian, Argyle strong blue under 20th century until present day. or other type natural pink LWUV lamp and a characteristic • Russia *(, Mir mine) - diamond. Treated pinks show ‘‘fingerprint’’ in the infrared part from kimberlites in 1950’s orangy yellow to peach color of the spectra. While rare Golcon- until present day. and synthetic stones display red- da’s are Type IIa (without nitrogen • Australia* (Argyle) - from dish orange under both LWUV impurities), Argyle pinks comprise lamproite from 1985 until and SWUV light light (Figure 2, nitrogen and typically more in present day. page XX) ‘B’ form than ‘A,’ making them • Canada* (Northwest Territories, Type IaAB. In recent years GRS Diavik mine and Northern A new ‘PL inspector’ (mini UV lamp Gemresearch Swisslab (GRS) in Ontario, Victor mine) - from with magnifier) developed by Geme- Hong Kong in collaboration with kimberlites for last 15 years; trix (Australia) for checking fluo- CGL-GRS Swiss Canadian Gemlab • Lesotho (Kao mine) - from rescence/phosphorescence reactions Inc. (CGL-GRS) Canada has been kimberlite in 2014. has proven to be a very useful tool to separate natural from treated and synthetic diamonds (pink, colored and colourless) (ref. 1). 2. Microscope – natural stones have natural and pink Right (Figure 3) graining lines, synthetic HPHT 0.96ct Faint pink and stones contain metallic in- 1.03ct Fancy brownish clusions and CVD synthetics purplish have pinpoints in one plane or from Diavik mIne, that blackish “feathers” (ref. 1). is laser inscribed with 3. Cross Polarized Filters Canada Mark to certify (CPF) or Portable Polarioscope Canadian origin. – while pink diamonds from Photo courtesy of India, , Lesotho, South CGL-GRS, Canada. Africa and show a “tatami“ cross pattern typical for type IIa diamonds, other sources of natural pink dia- monds like Australia, Canada, Russia and , Central accumulating data on pink diamonds Africa and Venezuela show a from different sources using standard Today’s consumers are very con- stronger pattern typical for type gem instruments and advanced scious about the origin of products. I diamonds. Synthetic HPHT spectroscopy (UV-VIS, FTIR and In addition to demanding fair trade pink diamonds will not show PL) and other advanced techniques. coffee and other relatively inex- any pattern under CPF while The following are sources of pensive products, it is reasonable to CVD synthetics typically show pink and purple Argyle and non- expect a similar interest in knowing “columnar pattern” though Argyle diamonds in historical order where their expensive coloured dia- could also exhibit a type II pat- from all commercial sources mond comes from. US and Canadi- tern (ref. 1). * indicates examined in the last 3 an wholesalers and jewellers should years as part of research): be ready to provide the answer based In 2014 GRS and CGL-GRS • Indonesia (Borneo, Kalimantan) on available information. reported on a much more “natural - oldest diamond mining from looking” new generation of Ori- rivers, starting in 16th century. Purple - Pink Diamonds from on PDC (Hong Kong) fancy pink • India (Golconda) - from Canada CVD-grown diamonds of all sizes kimberlite in the 17th century. Recently at CGL-GRS lab in and higher clarity (VVS-VS) than • Brazil* () - from Canada we had a chance to study were previously available on the rivers in 18th century until 2 larger (0.96ct and 1.03ct) pink market. Advanced spectroscopy is present day. diamonds (Figure 3, page XX) from necessary to positively identify CVD • South Africa* (Lace Mine) - the “Canadian Diamond Exchange” diamonds rather than HPHT or from kimberlite in late 19th and we found similar characteristics treated natural. (ref. 2). century until present day. in this group of diamonds that’s fits • Venezuela* (Santa Elena) - with research data we collected with Sources of Pink Natural Diamonds diamonds founded in rivers in GRS labs in 2015 (ref. 4) as “Cana- in the World 1920’s until present day. dian fingerprint”. In 2007, one of the authors began • Tanzania (flawless 23.60-carat Colours - ranges from faint pink to a research project in conjunction Williamson Pink diamond was fancy brownish purplish pink.

48 Microscopy - Canadian diamonds major celebrities buying pink are medium quality, in SI1 to VS2 diamonds; clarity range sometimes with garnet • Australia’s strict adherence inclusions, feathers and typical strong to the Kimberley Process and purple-pink graining lines. proven “conflict free” Argyle Cross Polarized Filters - Canadian origin diamonds shows strong interference • Canadian strong certification colors (type Ia) when observed in of Canadian “colourless” portable polarioscope mounted on diamonds and new discoveries microscope. of pink diamonds that will UV Fluorescence - all diamonds did follow existing lasering and not show any fluorescence under origin protocols; LW or SW light. • Rarity of pink diamonds and Advanced Spectroscopy - infrared the strong likelihood that spectroscopy revealed that Cana- Argyle mine will be closed dian diamonds are type IaAB with within 5 years. high amount of nitrogen present , typically more in ‘B’ form than ‘A, CGL-GRS is currently working (Figure 4, page XX). Diamonds are on an “Advanced Fancy Diamond showing 415nm absorption related Report” that will make reference

Left (Figure 4) Infrared spectra of type IaAB pink diamond with high nitrogen is typical for Canadian diamonds, 10 presented here. Courtesy of GRS Lab (Hong Kong) Ltd, Hong Kong,

to nitrogen in visible spectra. to diamond origin when test results REFERENCES: These diamonds from Cana- are conclusive. Many of the Cana- 1. “Proceedings to 2nd Mediterranean da have very similar characteristics dian pinks are laser inscribed with Gem and Jewellery Conference 2016”, to purple diamonds from Russia the ‘’Canada Mark’’ logo (therefore Valencia, Spain, www.gemconference.com regarding colour (strong purple originating from the Diavik mine, 2. ‘New Generation of Synthetic Dia- modifier of pink) and gemmological Northwest Territories, Canada). monds Reaches the Market: Lab-grown characteristics (no fluorescence, pur- Rio Tinto diamonds in Australia and Pink CVD Diamonds’, Deljanin B ple-pink graining, strong type Ia pat- Canadian mining companies are fol- , Herzog F., Bieri W., Alessandri M., tern under CPF), so other advanced lowing all protocols implemented by Günther D., Frick D., Cleveland, E., techniques (UV-visible, infrared and their respective governments regard- Zaitsev A.M., Peretti A . Contribution photoluminescence spectroscopy ing tracking of their diamonds, and to Gemmology # 14, 2014. and others) are needed to separate consumers do not mind to paying 3. ‘Characterization of pink diamonds those sources. an extra premium in order to ensure of different origin: Natural (Argyle, that their diamonds are coming from non-Argyle), irradiated, HPHT-treated, Origin Certification of Pink Dia- these conflict-free sources. By treated with multi-process, coated and monds? Branko Deljanin1, Dr. Adolf Peretti2, 3 synthetic’ B. Deljanin, D. Simic, A. Over the last ten years, demand for Matthias Alessandri Zaitsev, J. Chapman, T. Middleton, A. pink diamonds has increased in part 1CGL-GRS Swiss Canadian Gemlab 2 De Stefano, et al; Proceedings Volume of due to the following factors: Inc, Canada, [email protected]; Dr. Diamond and Related Materials, 2008. • Exposure in mainstream Peretti Co. Ltd, Thailand and GRS 4. ‘World of Pink Diamonds and their media, most often in the Laboratories, [email protected]; 3GRS Identification’, B.Deljanin, A. Peretti, form of published results on Lab (Hong Kong) Ltd, Hong Kong, M. Alessandri, InColour magazine, record-breaking prices at China Spring 2015. major auctions, as well as

49 firm member profile james alger : james alger co.

These elected appointments have what changes to the trade have included serving as Chairman of you have you witnessed? Also, how Membership, Chairman of Promo- are you guiding your firm to meet tions Committee, and Spectrum today’s challenges? Awards. Colored gemstones are by nature very rare and mysterious. No one Will you share about you, where you really knows how they are formed. grew up, and your family today? With the trend towards more treat- I grew up in New Hampshire on ment, there is an increasing tendency my grand parents farm where I have to make colored gemstones a com- resided until recently. I spend sum- modity. We emphasize fine quality, mers on the NH coast with my wife, untreated and service. Pat. I’ve lived in Tucson, , (mainly to ski) Please share your thoughts on responsible sourcing and social responsibility in the Tell us more about your love for colored colored gemstone industry. gemstones? hile walking the AGTA People at every level of the produc- Colored stones in their purest form GemFair™ Tucson, you find tion chain have to be adequately W are an amazing and mysterious so many knowledgeable firms with compensated. Producing countries expression of nature. I never tire of a willingness to share their colored and their people have to share their beauty, diversity, and the feel- gemstone knowledge and enthusi- equally. he have to only work with ings they invoke. asm. One such firm is James Alger suppliers who ensure their employ- Company, Inc. The company is Who were your early mentors in the ees have safe working conditions and represented by Member of Record, colored gemstone trade? equitable pay. James Alger. Andrew Sarosi, Joseph Stachura, and Tell us about James Alger Company James “Jim” Alger and his wife, George Hartmann Pat were living in Tucson in the today. Who we are likely to speak with early seventies where they attended What initially attracted you to AGTA? when we call? their first gem show. At the show, In the early 80’s all shows were My wife Pat manages the office. Our Jim bought a small lapidary wheel organized by promoters whose self staff includes Annette (Noni) Kirby, along with a saw, and began cutting interest was first. AGTA has given us Barbara Brown and Felicitas (Feli) gems. “We both became fascinated a voice in the industry, great trade Hermsdorf. fairs, ethical guidelines and opportu- with colored gemstones that contin- What has your membership with the nities for promotion and education ues to this day.”, says Jim. Below: AGTA meant for/to you? of colored gemstones. Garnets from From that modest beginning, James Alger Co. James Alger Co., Inc has become What is your favorite colored gemstone? AGTA has given my colleagues and one of the most respected AGTA Probably tourmaline, so many of it’s I a voice in the industry, a means to Firm members. Over the years, Jim hues resonate with me. discuss, analyze and solve the ethical, has been dedicated to serving AGTA During your activity and in- logistics and economic challenges in a number of volunteer positions. volvement in colored gemstones, we all face. Also, excellent marketing opportunities.

50 Clockwise from left: Multidolored ; cornflower blue Sapphire; Tourmaline crystals from James Alger Co.

What is your favorite colored gemstone Brussels sprouts with fig, mint yogurt “Tucson Story”? and walnuts, fries with sumac, parsley For years we had a bicolor tour- and garlic, and lamb dumplings. maline carving of Elvis. I’m not What is your favorite off-the-beaten-path even sure why we bought it! We destination? finally put it in our closeouts .The Grand Targhee for powder skiing, folks from Urban Mining decided surfing and yoga on the Nicoya to purchase it at the show. As they Pennisula, Costa Rica. were leaving the show, they stopped in the AGTA office and had them Tell us something about yourself that announce over the loud speaker most people don’t know. “Elvis has left the building”. We I originally went to college to study were thrilled! Optometry. I switched and got a degree in business. Whom have you admired in the colored By David Baker, GG, AGTA gemstone industry? Membership & Education Manager Eric Braumwert of Columbia Gem. He has been a long time proponent of fair trade and responsible sourcing. You are a citizen of the World. What is your favorite city? Trier, Germany, ancient city, home to Karl Marx. What is your favorite hotel? Peninsula in Bangkok What is your favorite restaurant? It’s one of my many favorites, and certainly one of the oldest. We’ve been going to Caruso’s in Tucson since 1973. In the seventies, it was the only restaurant in downtown that served pizza. And it still serves one of my favorite pizzas. What was your best meal ever? Ilili in New York. They serve Middle Eastern food. The pita bread comes hot out of the oven still puffed up. The cucumber mint lemonade is really refreshing. Small plates were

51 welcome

Firm Members Retail Members Castings (dba J. Anthony Jewelers) Jewel & Gift Inc. Ambassador Gems Joseph A. Ziemba Atul Pareek (dba of Veteran Supply Neenah, WI New York, NY Services) Bryan Lichtenstein The Polynesian Pearl Monalisa Fine Jewels, Inc. Carlsbad, CA Company,Inc. Pankaj Kothari Janet Amos Rego Park, NY B & B Jewelry South Lake Tahoe, NV (dba Pierce Jewelers) New Era Gems William Pierce Student Members Steve Ulatowski Carmel, IN Grass Valley, CA Allan Kellner Bowen Jewelry Co. Seattle, WA Star Gem Brian Bowen, Jr. William Drew Lynchburg, VA Gary Braun Cobleskill, NY Marietta, GA Burke’s Fine Jewelers Tamayo’s Opals & Fred Burke, Jr. Phanlert Panaram Luciano Tamayo Kilmarnock, VA Ottawa, ON Trenton, SC Curt Parker Jeweler Sandra Gillespie Associated Industry Curt Parker Brentwood, CA Professionals Saint Louis, MO Sharon Berman Agency Squid LLC Denis The Jeweler Los Angeles, CA Brent Marmo Denis Abernathy Minneapolis, MN Stillwater, OK

Fancy Diam Inc. Golden Artistry Jewelry Nilesh Desai Design New York, NY Terry Whyte La Mesa, CA Grace Estate Jewels Linda Bunn Handcrafted Jewelry, Inc San Diego, CA (dba Jewelry Art) Barbara Johnson Manufacturing Members Hudson, OH

Paolo Costagli Inc Huntington Fine Anna Frammolino Jewelers,Inc. New York, NY Lisa Smith Oklahoma City, OK Spinelli Kilcollin Yves Spinelli Jackson Diamond Jewelers Los Angeles, CA Ryan Jackson Enid, OK

John Laughter Jewel- ry John Laughter Asheville, NC

Keith Field Classical Keith Field Brunswick, ME

Paolo A Modern Jeweler Paolo Salamone Cincinnati, OH

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