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Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist March 2012
INDEX TO VOLUME 65 Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist April 2011-March 2012 INDEX BY FEATURE/ Signature Techniques Part 1 Resin Earrings and Pendant, PROJECT/DEPARTMENT of 2, 20, 09/10-11 30, 08-11 Signature Techniques Part 2 Sagenite Intarsia Pendant, 50, With title, page number, of 2, 18, 11-11 04-11 month, and year published Special Event Sales, 22, 08-11 Silver Clay and Wire Ring, 58, When to Saw Your Rough, 74, 03-12 FEATURE ARTICLES Smokin’*, 43, 09/10-11 01/02-12 Argentium® Tips, 50, 03-12 Spinwheel, 20, 08-11 Arizona Opal, 22, 01/02-12 PROJECTS/DEMOS/FACET Stacking Ring Trio, 74, Basic Files, 36, 11-11 05/06-11 DESIGNS Brachiopod Agate, 26, 04-11 Sterling Safety Pin, 22, 12-11 Alabaster Bowls, 54, 07-11 Create Your Best Workspace, Swirl Step Cut Revisited, 72, Amethyst Crystal Cross, 34, 28, 11-11 01/02-12 Cut Together, 66, 01/02-12 12-11 Tabbed Fossil Coral Pendant, Deciphering Chinese Writing Copper and Silver Clay 50, 01/02-12 Linked Bracelet, 48, 07-11 12, 07-11 Stone, 78, 01/02-12 Torch Fired Enamel Medallion Site of Your Own, A, 12, 03-12 Easier Torchwork, 43, 11-11 Copper Wire Cuff with Silver Necklace, 33, 09/10-11 Elizabeth Taylor’s Legendary Wire “Inlay,” 28, 07-11 Trillion Diamonds Barion, 44, SMOKIN’ STONES Jewels, 58, 12-11 Coquina Pendant, 44, 05/06-11 Alabaster, 52, 07-11 Ethiopian Opal, 28, 01/02-12 01/02-12 Turquoise and Pierced Silver Ametrine, 44, 09/10-11 Find the Right Findings, 46, Corrugated Copper Pendant, Bead Bracelet – Plus!, 44, Coquina, 42, 01/02-12 09/10-11 24, 05/06-11 04-11 Fossilized Ivory, 24, 04-11 -
Stuller.Com 800 877 7777
Above, top to bottom: 71812 Genuine Opal and Diamond Ring, 7x5mm, 1 ⁄5 CTW, 14K Rose, 158, 33, $959. Mounting #71812, $415. | 51730 Beaded Stackable Ring, 2.2mm, 14K Rose, $309 | 123038 Round-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 ct center (6.5mm), 1 ⁄5 CTW, 14K White, 32, size 7, $1,359. Mounting #123038, $865. | 652286 Diamond 1 Anniversary Band, ⁄10 CTW, 14K White, 544, size 7, $595 | 68662 Diamond Heart 1 Necklace, ⁄10 CTW, 7.8x5.7mm, 14K Rose, 432, 18", $775 Front cover, clockwise, from left: 85773 Be Posh® Engravable Heart Pendant, 16x14mm, 14K Yellow, $345. 86179 Posh Mommy® Imitation July Birthstone Charm, 4mm, 14K Yellow, 361, $195. CH123 Diamond-Cut Cable Chain, 1mm, 14K Yellow, 16", $119 6497 White Freshwater Cultured Pearl 1 and Diamond Ring, 4-4.5mm, ⁄5 CTW, 6mm width, 14K Yellow, 16, 33, $995. Mounting #6497, $409. | 123021 Oval-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 ct center 1 (8x6mm), ⁄5 CTW, 14K White, 32, size 7, $1,349. Mounting #123021, $525. | 123186 Diamond 3 Anniversary Band, ⁄8 CTW, 14K Yellow, 32, size 7, $1,289. Mounting #123186, $435. Stuller.com 800 877 7777 Prices are suggested retail at triple key based on $1,100 platinum, $1,350 gold, and $19 silver. | Items shown larger than actual size. | For current pricing and availability and to see the entire collection, visit Stuller.com. 01/2017 MKTGMEDIA:9810 FJ7330 Valentine's Day Brochure 2017.indd 1 12/6/16 12:00 PM VALENTINE’S DAY 2017 Gifts for "Sweethearts Eye Candy Looks You Crave Cool Treats FJ7330 Valentine's Day Brochure 2017.indd 1 12/6/16 12:00 PM “As you explore all of our Gifts for Sweethearts, you’re in for a real treat: irresistible jewelry selections deliciously displayed. -
Distinctive Designs
Distinctive Designs Brides Ring in an Era of Self-Expression by Stacey Marcus Diamond rings have been sporting the hands of newly can elevate a traditional setting to an entirely new level. While engaged women since ancient times. In the mid 1940s, diamonds are always in vogue for engagement rings, millen- DeBeers revived the ritual with its famous “Diamonds Are nials are also opting for nontraditional stones, such as color- Forever” campaign. Today’s brides are blazing new trails by changing alexandrite, beautiful tanzanite, black opal, and even selecting nontraditional wedding rings that express their aquamarine. We are in an age when anything goes, and brides individual style. are embracing the idea of individuality and self-expression!” True Colors says Jordan Fine, CEO of JFINE. “Brides today want to be unique and they don’t mind taking Kathryn Money, vice president of strategy and merchandising chances with colors, settings, and stones. When it comes to at Brilliant Earth agrees: “Customers are seeking products that choosing an engagement ring, natural pink, blue, and even express their individuality and are increasingly drawn towards green diamonds are trending. These precious and rare dia- uniqueness. They want a ring that isn’t like everyone else’s, monds originate from only a few mines in the world, and they which we’re seeing manifested in many different ways, such 34 Spring 2018 BRIDE&GROOM as choosing a distinctive ring setting, using colored gemstones in lieu of a diamond, using a fancy (non-round) diamond, or opting for rose gold.” Money adds that 16% of respondents in a recent survey they conducted favored a colored gemstone engagement ring over a diamond. -
A Survey of the Gemstone Resources of China
A SURVEY OF THE GEMSTONE RESOURCES OF CHINA By Peter C. Keller and Wang Fuquan The People's Republic of China has recently hina has historically been a land of great mystery, placed a high priority on identifying and C with natural resources and cultural treasures that, developing its gemstone resources. Initial until recently, were almost entirely hidden from the out- exploration by teams of geologists side world. From the point of view of the geologist and throughout China has identified many gemologist, one could only look at known geological maps deposits with significant potential, of this huge country and speculate on the potential impact including amher, cinnabar, garnets, blue sapphires, and diamonds. Small amounts of China would have on the world's gem markets if its gem ruby have' qlso been found. Major deposits resources were ever developed to their full potential. of nephriteyade as well as large numbers of During the past few years, the government of the Peo- gem-bearing pegmatite dilces have been ple's Republic of China (P.R.C.)has opened its doors to the identified.Significant deposits of peridot outside world in a quest for information and a desire for are crirrently being exploited from Hebei scientific and cultural cooperation. It was in this spirit of Province. Lastly, turqrloise rivaling the cooperation that a week-long series of lectures on gem- finest Persian material has been found in stones and their origins was presented by the senior author large quantities in Hubei and Shaanxi and a colleague to over 100 geologists from all over China Provinces. -
Turquoise: the Cerrillos Mineral Gem
A Living History Museum Turquoise: The Cerrillos Mineral Gem The mines of Cerrillos, New Mexico produce a particularly beautiful blue/ green variety of turquoise, so stunning in fact that they have been mined for roughly the last 3,000 years! Chemically, it is a phosphate of aluminum carrying small quantities of copper and iron and a green mineral, variscite. These give the gemstone its color as well as its value and beauty. This is the only phosphate that is considered a precious stone. Ancestral Puebloans first started mining the Cerrillos hills circa 900 BCE, and it’s been mined ever since. This “gem” of a mineral has been found across the state, and archaeological evidence shows it’s been mined and fashioned into ornaments and jewelry for centuries, with remnants found at one of the most ancient sites in the state, Chetro Ketl at Chaco Canyon. Southwest indigenous groups call turquoise chalchihuitl, as did the ancient peoples of Mexico and Central America who used the same word to describe jade or green turquoise. One of the hills still being mined in Cerrillos still bears the name, Mount Chalchihuitl. Combined with shell and coral from the California coast acquired in trade, turquoise jewelry itself became a valued commodity. Spanish settlers didn’t have much interest in turquoise as they were looking for what they considered a more important prize, namely gold and silver. In fact, outside of local indigenous groups, other cultural groups weren’t much interested in it and it didn’t really gain popularity with the American cultural at large until the 1890s. -
Recognized by Fashion Industry Professionals for Their Impeccable
FLATBACK STONES Flatback Stones Recognized by fashion industry professionals for their impeccable light dispersion and extreme durability, Preciosa Flatback Stones come in a rainbow of captivating colors and coatings. Our flagship Chaton Rose MAXIMA can reflect up to 264 unique rays of light, the most of any competing stone on the market, making this the world’s most brilliant flatback. 65 Colors Coatings Numerical Order Crystal Light Topaz Crystal AB 00030 . Crystal 10220 . Smoked Topaz 50630 . Shamrock 00030 10020 200 AB 00030 200 AB . Crystal AB 10330 . Light Colorado Topaz 50730 . Emerald 00030 213 Lav .......... Crystal Lava 10430 . Gold Beryl 51000 . Chrysolite Opal Jet Topaz Crystal Argent Flare 00030 219 Snr .......... Crystal Sunrise 20020 . Light Amethyst 60000 . Aquamarine 23980 10070 242 AgF 00030 231 BlF . Crystal Blue Flare 20030 . Smoked Amethyst 60010 . Aqua Bohemica 00030 234 Ven.......... Crystal Venus 20050 . Amethyst 60100 . Indicolite White Opal Light Colorado Topaz Crystal Velvet* 00030 235 Hon . Crystal Honey 20410 . Tanzanite 60230 . Blue Zircon 01000 10330 279 Vel 00030 237 Lag.......... Crystal Lagoon 20490 . Purple Velvet 60310 . Capri Blue Black Diamond Light Smoked Topaz Crystal Honey 00030 239 BdF.......... Crystal Blond Flare 21110 . Amethyst Opal 70010 . Rose 40010 10210 235 Hon 00030 242 AgF.......... Crystal Argent Flare 23980 . Jet 70020 . Light Rose 00030 244 GdH . Crystal Golden Honey 23980 200 AB . Jet AB 70040 . Indian Pink Smoked Sapphire Smoked Topaz Crystal Golden Honey 00030 251 RdF.......... Crystal Red Flame 23980 230 BrF .......... Jet Brown Flare 70220 . Pink Sapphire 30010 10220 244 GdH 00030 259 PeG . Crystal Peacock Green 23980 232 SiF . Jet Silver Flare 70230 . -
Gem News International
(1 I /1 IIJ' ~ ) ~! I I I Gem News International 1/ Contributing Editors \ t Emmanuel Fritsch, University of Nantes, CNRS, Team 6502, Institut des Matériaux Jean Rouxel (IMN), I Nantes, France ([email protected]) ti''1 ) ) I ( J f ( I' Gagan Choudhary, Gem Testing Laboratory, Jaipur, India j 11 ([email protected]) I j\ I r \, ) I\ r I / { ' Christopher M. Breeding, GIA, Carlsbad ([email protected]) - ~ .. 1\ - 1 ( t 1/I J ~ 1 1 ________________' ( _1 ____J ____ I\ J __tc _, __ ) l _______,_____________________ , ___________________ .._________ 4( _,' : 1 , _______ __ _ Opal, particularly black opal, has seen a resurgence among high-end jewelers. Boehm believes there could be a TUCSON 2019 growing appreciation for the gem due to the discovery of opal in Ethiopia, which has brought opal to different price The 2019 gem shows came to Tucson with a wealth of ma- points and different audiences in the past decade. Rod Grif- terial, both new and old, as eager buyers descended on ex- fin (Rod Griffin Boulder Opals) discussed his experiences in hibitors to take in the latest trends. While traffic was not Australian opal mining and the new technology he is using as heavy as in recent years, several vendors noticed an in- to exploit deposits once thought to be depleted (pp. 122–123). flux of young people looking for natural, untreated gem- Color, of course, continues to reign, and dealers are see- stones. Spectacular color in gems and stunning jewelry ing what Boehm called “an increased appreciation for the designs were on view, while many pointed to sustainable unusual.” Beyond the classic “Big Three,” vendors stocked and ethical practices as a major consideration in their col- gemstones such as sphene, grandidierite, and various colors ored gemstone and jewelry purchases. -
Raymond & Leigh Danielle Austin
PRODUCT TRENDS, BUSINESS TIPS, NATIONAL TONGUE PIERCING DAY & INSTAGRAM FAVS Metal Mafia PIERCER SPOTLIGHT: RAYMOND & LEIGH DANIELLE AUSTIN of BODY JEWEL WITH 8 LOCATIONS ACROSS OHIO STATE Friday, August 14th is NATIONAL TONGUE PIERCING DAY! #nationaltonguepiercingday #nationalpiercingholidays #metalmafialove 14G Titanium Barbell W/ Semi Precious Stone Disc Internally Threaded Starting At $7.54 - TBRI14-CD Threadless Starting At $9.80 - TTBR14-CD 14G Titanium Barbell W/ Swarovski Gem Disc Internally Threaded Starting At $5.60 - TBRI14-GD Threadless Starting At $8.80 - TTBR14-GD @fallenangelokc @holepuncher213 Fallen Angel Tattoo & Body Piercing 14G Titanium Barbell W/ Dome Top 14G Titanium Barbell W/ Dome Top 14G ASTM F-67 Titanium Barbell Assortment Internally Threaded Starting At $5.46 - TBRI14-DM Internally Threaded Starting At $5.46 - TBRI14-DM Starting At $17.55 - ATBRE- Threadless Starting At $8.80 - TTBR14-DM Threadless Starting At $8.80 - TTBR14-DM 14G Threaded Barbell W Plain Balls 14G Steel Internally Threaded Barbell W Gem Balls Steel External Starting At $0.28 - SBRE14- 24 Piece Assortment Pack $58.00 - ASBRI145/85 Steel Internal Starting At $1.90 - SBRI14- @the.stabbing.russian Titanium Internal Starting At $5.40 - TBRI14- Read Street Tattoo Parlour ANODIZE ANY ASTM F-136 TITANIUM ITEM IN-HOUSE FOR JUST 30¢ EXTRA PER PIECE! Blue (BL) Bronze (BR) Blurple Dark Blue (DB) Dark Purple (DP) Golden (GO) Light Blue (LB) Light Purple (LP) Pink (PK) Purple (PR) Rosey Gold (RG) Yellow(YW) (Blue-Purple) (BP) 2 COPYRIGHT METAL MAFIA 2020 COPYRIGHT METAL MAFIA 2020 3 CONTENTS Septum Clickers 05 AUGUST METAL MAFIA One trend that's not leaving for sure is the septum piercing. -
As Versatile As They Are Eye-Catching, Preciosa Cupchains Can and Have
Cupchains As versatile as they are eye-catching, Preciosa Cupchains can and have been used for everything from tailored accents like crystal fringe to full- on, floor-length fashion statements, and are a fashion jeweler’s dream. Made with our signature Preciosa Chatons MAXIMA, this assortment offers hundreds of size, color and plating combinations and comes in an additional multi-row version. CUPCHAINS 173 Round Stones Colors Coatings Numerical Order 00030 . Crystal 20410 . Tanzanite 80310 . Citrine Crystal Topaz Crystal AB 00030 20031 AB ........ Crystal AB 21110 . Amethyst Opal 90070 . Light Siam 00030 10070 20031 AB 00030 21931 Snr ........ Crystal Sunrise 23980 . Jet 90075 . Red Velvet Jet Light Colorado Topaz Crystal Argent Flare 00030 23531 Hon . Crystal Honey 23980 27231 Hem . Jet Hematite 90090 . Siam 23980 10330 24231 AgF 00030 24231 AgF . Crystal Argent Flare 30010 . Smoked Sapphire 90100 . Burgundy 00030 24431 GdH....... Crystal Golden Honey 30020 . Light Sapphire 90110 . Ruby White Opal Smoked Topaz Crystal Velvet* 00030 25931 PeG . Crystal Peacock Green 30050 . Sapphire 90300 . Light Peach 01000 10220 27931 Vel 00030 26036 Ntf . Crystal Nightfall 30280 . Dark Indigo 90310 . Sun 00030 26231 Aur . Crystal Aurum 30340 . Montana 90350 . Padparadscha Black Diamond Light Gold Quartz Crystal Honey 00030 26536 VL . Crystal Vitrail Light 31110 . Light Sapphire Opal 40010 00520 23531 Hon 00030 26636 Apri....... Crystal Apricot 33400 . Deep Sea Smoked Sapphire Gold Quartz Crystal Golden Honey 00030 27031 Lab . Crystal Labrador 40010 . Black Diamond 30010 00530 24431 GdH 00030 27131 CaG ....... Crystal Capri Gold 50000 . Chrysolite 00030 27731 MtC ....... Crystal Monte Carlo 50010 . Erinite Aquamarine Light Peach Crystal Sunrise* 00030 27931 Vel....... -
Rockhounding North America
ROCKHOUNDING NORTH AMERICA Compiled by Shelley Gibbins Photos by Stefan and Shelley Gibbins California Sapphires — Montana *Please note that the Calgary Rock and Lapidary Quartz — Montana Club is not advertising / sponsoring these venues, but sharing places for all rock lovers. *Also, remember that rules can change; please check that these venues are still viable and permissible options before you go. *There is some risk in rockhounding, and preventative measures should be taken to avoid injury. The Calgary Rock and Lapidary Club takes no responsibility for any injuries should they occur. *I have also included some locations of interest, which are not for collecting Shells — Utah General Rules for Rockhounding (keep in mind that these may vary from place to place) ! • Rockhounding is allowed on government owned land (Crown Land in Canada and Bureau of Land Management in USA) ! • You can collect on private property only with the permission of the landowner ! • Collecting is not allowed in provincial or national parks ! • The banks along the rivers up to the high water mark may be rock hounded ! • Gold panning may or may not need a permit – in Alberta you can hand pan, but need a permit for sluice boxes ! • Alberta fossils are provincial property and can generally not be sold – you can surface collect but not dig. You are considered to be the temporary custodian and they need to stay within the province Fossilized Oysters — BC Canada ! Geology of Provinces ! Government of Canada. Natural resources Canada. (2012). Retrieved February 6/14 from http://atlas.gc.ca/site/ english/maps/geology.html#rocks. -
"Paraíba" Tourmaline from Brazil
AN UPDATE ON “PARAÍBA” TOURMALINE FROM BRAZIL By James E. Shigley, Brian C. Cook, Brendan M. Laurs, and Marcelo de Oliveira Bernardes Vivid blue, green, and purple-to-violet cuprian elbaites, renowned in the gem trade as “Paraíba” tourma- lines, continue to be recovered in small amounts from northeastern Brazil. Since the initial discovery of this copper-bearing tourmaline in 1982, production has been sporadic and has not kept up with the strong market demand. Mining currently takes place at the original discovery—the Mina da Batalha—and at adjacent workings near São José da Batalha in Paraíba State. At least two pegmatite localities (the Mulungu and Alto dos Quintos mines) in neighboring Rio Grande do Norte State have produced limited quantities of cuprian elbaites. All of these pegmatites occur within Late Proterozoic metamorphic rocks of the Equador Formation; the source of the copper is unknown. Six blue to blue-green elbaites from Mulungu had lower copper contents (up to 0.69 wt.% CuO) than the brightly colored Mina da Batalha material reported in the literature. nusually vivid “neon” blue, green-blue, Milisenda 2001; Smith et al., 2001; Zang et al., green, and violet elbaite tourmalines first 2001). The colors of some cuprian elbaites can be Uappeared in the jewelry trade in 1989 changed by heat treatment, and some are fracture- (Koivula and Kammerling, 1989a). Some of these filled to improve their apparent clarity. colors were so striking (figure 1) that initially there During the 1990 Tucson gem show, prices for was uncertainty over the identity of the material. this material skyrocketed from a few hundred dol- Eventually it was learned that they were recovered lars to over $2,000 per carat in just four days from several small granitic pegmatite dikes at a sin- (Federman, 1990; Reilly, 1990). -
Winter 1998 Gems & Gemology
WINTER 1998 VOLUME 34 NO. 4 TABLE OF CONTENTS 243 LETTERS FEATURE ARTICLES 246 Characterizing Natural-Color Type IIb Blue Diamonds John M. King, Thomas M. Moses, James E. Shigley, Christopher M. Welbourn, Simon C. Lawson, and Martin Cooper pg. 247 270 Fingerprinting of Two Diamonds Cut from the Same Rough Ichiro Sunagawa, Toshikazu Yasuda, and Hideaki Fukushima NOTES AND NEW TECHNIQUES 281 Barite Inclusions in Fluorite John I. Koivula and Shane Elen pg. 271 REGULAR FEATURES 284 Gem Trade Lab Notes 290 Gem News 303 Book Reviews 306 Gemological Abstracts 314 1998 Index pg. 281 pg. 298 ABOUT THE COVER: Blue diamonds are among the rarest and most highly valued of gemstones. The lead article in this issue examines the history, sources, and gemological characteristics of these diamonds, as well as their distinctive color appearance. Rela- tionships between their color, clarity, and other properties were derived from hundreds of samples—including such famous blue diamonds as the Hope and the Blue Heart (or Unzue Blue)—that were studied at the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory over the past several years. The diamonds shown here range from 0.69 to 2.03 ct. Photo © Harold & Erica Van Pelt––Photographers, Los Angeles, California. Color separations for Gems & Gemology are by Pacific Color, Carlsbad, California. Printing is by Fry Communications, Inc., Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania. © 1998 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved. ISSN 0016-626X GIA “Cut” Report Flawed? The long-awaited GIA report on the ray-tracing analysis of round brilliant diamonds appeared in the Fall 1998 Gems & Gemology (“Modeling the Appearance of the Round Brilliant Cut Diamond: An Analysis of Brilliance,” by T.