Clockwise from left: Chris- tian and Stefan Hemmerle at home; Hemmerle’s 18k white gold, black iron and aquamarine ring, 18k red gold, moonstone, amethyst and sapphire brooch, and 18k white gold, red patinated copper, spinel and amethyst earrings, prices available upon request, at Hemmerle, 011.800.2422.6000. ccessories ∂lash ccessories a W The Good Germans The Hemmerles, Munich’s first family of jewelry, design baubles that are truly one of a kind. Photographs by S t e f a n K o r t e t’s not every client request that 230 pieces of haute joaillerie each year in its inspires a designer to branch off into a 12-artisan Munich workshop, is renowned direction he never before imagined— for its austere architectural settings ren- I and subsequently to develop an entirely dered in unorthodox materials including new style in doing so. But that’s exactly how copper, stainless steel, brass, aluminum and the German jewelry house Hemmerle came rare woods, and for its use of exquisitely to enjoy its current status as one of today’s cut colored gemstones. The heaviness of most inventive and sought-after jewelers. a masculine charcoal-hued iron band, for It all began in 1995, when a prominent instance, only enhances the sharp angles of Munich art collector commissioned Ste- an emerald-cut 40-carat electric blue aqua- fan Hemmerle, a third-generation jeweler, marine ring, while the warm hues of orange to create a birthday present for his wife, a and red patinated copper perfectly com- woman who detested flashy gems. In fact, plement a pair of earrings’ berry-colored she wore only Berlin iron jewelry, a 19th- amethyst and rubellite drops. An iron and century style that developed during the diamond samurai warrior brooch even fea- Napoleonic Wars, when German citizens tures a body carved from the milky-colored donated their gold to the war effort and tagua nut, a by-product of a South American wore iron reproductions instead. palm tree also known as vegetable ivory. Stefan’s design, an iron and diamond “Our jewelry is unique,” notes Christian ring, not only won over the client but Hemmerle, 26, Stefan’s son and protégé. inspired the designer to experiment with the “You have a lot of people who admire it, temperamental and utterly common metal. and then you have some who don’t appreci- “I fell in love with the idea, and I started to ate it at all. There are definitely some people Thanks to the make a small collection,” says Stefan, a tall, in this world who say, ‘Why would I want to distinguished 60-year-old with piercing blue wear unprecious material?’ A hundred years complexity eyes. “People love that simplicity—the com- ago it was forbidden in France to mix gold of materials bination of white, gray and brown diamonds and unprecious materials, so our product and textured iron. It was the beginning of would have been forbidden.” with which this metalwork in our collection.” Though Hemmerle has reached new Fast-forward 12 years and the Hem- creative heights over the past 12 years, its Hemmerle works, merle look has expanded far beyond iron. 114-year history is rooted in more tradi- its designs The house, which produces an estimated tional fare. In 1893 brothers Joseph and DOUG ROSA EARRINGS: are impossıble to copy. 78 | M A Y 2 0 0 7 www.wmagazine.com The Good Germans From top: Hemmerle’s Anton Hemmerle took over a jewelry business immediately had wonderful ideas, and that eve- 18k white gold, patinated copper and green and pink that manufactured medals for Bavarian royalty. ning we sat down by the pool area and sketched tourmaline earrings, and Within a few years, Luitpold, Prince Regent of the whole collection.” 18k white gold, patinated Bavaria, appointed the house an official purveyor Jewelry adviser Patricia Hambrecht, who has copper, garnet, rubellite and amethyst earrings, to the court. After moving to its current location known the Hemmerles for seven years, believes prices available upon on Munich’s famous shopping strip Maximil- the collaborative family dynamic is key to their request, at Hemmerle, 011.800.2422.6000. ianstrasse in 1904, the business grew to include success. “Stefan and Sylveli have complementary silver, military ornaments, antique jewelry and, skills, which makes them a very formidable team,” following World War II, the production of classi- she says, describing Sylveli as the detail-oriented cal jewelry. But it wasn’t until 1971, when the third perfectionist and Stefan as the creative one who generation, Stefan and his brother, Franz, took the loves stones. Hemmerle’s work, she adds, is not reins, that Hemmerle began to seriously develop only “instantly recognizable” and “beautifully its jewelry collection. A trained gold- and silver- made,” but thanks to the complexity of materials smith, Stefan, the creative design force behind with which the house works, practically impossi- the company, began forging the Hemmerle style, ble to copy, a quality that only heightens its appeal an aesthetic inspired by nature, the Bauhaus and to the jewelry connoisseur interested in owning a Neue Sachlichkeit, the 1920s German art move- one-of-a-kind piece. Hambrecht says that several ment that emphasized functionality and objectiv- of her clients who consider themselves JAR-heads ism. In 1995 Stefan and his wife, Sylveli, became (as in only buying the one-off designs of Paris jew- the sole owners of Hemmerle, when Franz, who eler Joel A. Rosenthal) have been swayed by the ran the business side, bowed out, though Stefan German house’s designs of late. “I recently met says it was an amicable parting. another client who said, ‘We used to admire JAR, Today Hemmerle remains a family affair. but now all we want to wear is Hemmerle.’” While Stefan still helms both design and sales (and While Hemmerle has been to some extent an is renowned for having a sketchbook permanently industry darling beloved by dealers and a sophis- attached to his hand), he is grooming Christian to ticated clientele largely made up of contemporary- take over the business one day. The duo venture art collectors in the U.S., Germany and Austria, together on gemstone-buying and sales trips, often its profile is on the rise. In November Die Neue accompanied by Christian’s wife, Yasmin, who Sammung, the State Museum of Applied Arts and previously worked for a diamond dealer. Sylveli, Design in Munich, honored Stefan with an exhibi- meanwhile, is the organizational taskmaster as tion of the house’s work. The museum showcased well as the color expert. “My wife has phenomenal 145 pieces, many on loan from collectors, in an taste in color. She is not a designer, but she has a installation designed by Dutch architect Tom great eye,” Stefan says. Christian agrees, noting Postma. An estimated 30,000 people visited the of his mother that “you could have 100 shades of exhibit, which was accompanied by the release of pink, and she could combine one with the perfect Jewels Today: Seen by Stefan Hemmerle, a coffee- shade of blue.” Sylveli also developed the tassel table tome featuring 85 pieces and sketches from earring, a signature look for Hemmerle, which she the past 20 years. originally fashioned in diamonds for herself. And this fall the Serpentine Gallery in London In fact, much of the design is done as a family. plans to host a sales exhibition of Hemmerle designs. “We create a lot as a team together. We sit down Sixty new creations will be on display, including and have different ideas for things, and we discuss objects ranging from bowls to consoles made from them through with our workers,” Christian says. such materials as jasper and rock crystal. Stefan recalls a February stone-buying trip Until then, family members will continue to the annual gem fair in Tucson, Arizona. “We doing what they do best: collaborating, spanning found these gems,” he says, ticking off a 33-carat the globe on the hunt for the perfect gemstone salmon pink spinel from Tajikistan, a 35-carat pre- specimens and, of course, designing. As Stefan cious brown topaz, and olive green sphene stones. says, “Other people read books or exercise for “On the way back to our hotel, I was sketching in pleasure. I sketch. It’s my kind of yoga.” the back of the car with my daughter-in-law. We —aliSon BurWell DOUG ROSA EARRINGS: BOTTOM 80 | may 2 0 0 7 www.wmagazine.com.