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IMPORTANT JEWELRY Wednesday, December 16, 2020 DOYLE.COM Lot 26 IMPORTANT JEWELRY AUCTION Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 12pm Eastern VIEWINGS BY APPOINTMENT Please contact Laura Chambers to schedule your appointment: [email protected] Safety protocols will be in place with limited capacity. Please maintain social distance during your visit. LOCATION Doyle Auctioneers & Appraisers 175 East 87th Street New York, NY 10128 212-427-2730 DOYLE.COM Sale Info View Lots and Place Bids The journey of the Wilson family from the deep became intimate with “Old New York Society,” summering antebellum South to the pinnacle of New York with their new peers in Newport and traveling to Gilded Age society began with the marriage in 1852 London and Paris. Highlighting the December 16 of the enterprising Georgia-born Richard Thornton auction is an antique natural pearl and diamond tiara Wilson, the son of a tanner and shoemaker, to with provenance of Melissa Clementine Johnston Melissa Clementine Johnston, the daughter of a Wilson (lot 111). She is seen wearing the tiara in a prosperous Tennessee merchant and planter. With an portrait painted by French artist Léon Bonnat initial investment from his new father-in-law, Wilson’s (1833-1922). early business ventures flourished. During the Civil War, Wilson served in important roles in the office of The couple’s five children all made brilliant marriages, the Commissary-General of the Confederacy, traveling to aligning the Wilsons with the some of the most elite London to broker the Southern cotton crop. families of New York and Great Britain and earning Emerging from the war $500,000 richer, he began them the moniker, “The Marrying Wilsons.” buying up defunct railroads. The Wilsons’ elder son, Marshall Orme Wilson Wilson moved his family north to New York, where married Caroline Schermerhorn Astor in 1884. She he established the successful banking firm, R. T. Wilson was the daughter of William Backhouse Astor, Jr. & Co., joining the ranks of the city’s millionaire and Caroline Webster Schermerhorn Astor, known financiers. The family settled into an elegant mansion as “The Mrs. Astor” who created the Four Hundred, on Fifth Avenue at 43rd Street, midway between the a list of New York society. Featured in the auction Astors at 34th Street and the Vanderbilts in the 50s. is a Ceylon sapphire and diamond devant-de-corsage With Melissa’s connections, the Wilsons quickly with provenance of Caroline Astor Wilson (lot 110). 4 Marshall Orme Wilson and Caroline Astor Grace Graham Wilson Wilson’s son, Orme married Cornelius Wilson, married Alice “Neily” Vanderbilt III Borland in 1910. in 1896. The couple He had a long career in traveled frequently to the diplomatic service Europe where they and was named U.S. became friends with Ambassador to Haiti various members of by FDR. A diamond European royalty. ring in the auction has The last of the great provenance of Mrs. Vanderbilt hostesses, Orme Wilson, Jr. Grace was known (lot 109). as the “Queen of New York Society.” Of the Richard T. Wilsons’ four other The upcoming auction children, Mary Rita on December 16 offers “May” Wilson married Portrait of Melissa Clementine Johnston Wilson by Léon Bonnat the rare opportunity to Ogden Goelet, a New (1833-1922). She is wearing the tiara, lot 111. acquire exquisite jewels York real estate heir from one of America’s in 1878. Their daughter, Mary Goelet became the storied families of the Gilded Age. These jewels have Duchess of Roxburghe upon her marriage to Henry been worn by generations of the Wilson family to Innes-Ker, the 8th Duke. legendary balls, the old Metropolitan Opera House’s “Diamond Horseshoe,” elegant dinners and brilliant Leila “Belle” Wilson married Sir Michael Henry Herbert soirées on both sides of the Atlantic. Historic jewels in 1888. He was the British ambassador to the such as these bring their glittering past to every future United States during Theodore Roosevelt’s event at which they will be worn. administration and the younger brother of the 13th and 14th Earls of Pembroke. Richard Thornton Wilson, Jr. married Marion Steedman Mason in 1902. He was a prominent figure in Thoroughbred racing circles and owned a number of successful racehorses. Cover: Lot 110. Belle Époque Platinum, Gold, Opposite: Lot 111. Antique Silver, Gold, Lot 109. Platinum and Diamond Ring Sapphire and Diamond Devant de Corsage Natural Pearl and Diamond Comb-Tiara Provenance: Mrs. Orme Wilson, Jr. Provenance: Caroline Astor Wilson C Provenance: Melissa Clementine Johnston Wilson From the Wilson Family Collection From the Wilson Family Collection From the Wilson Family Collection Estimate: $15,000-20,000 Estimate: $30,000-50,000 Estimate: $80,000-120,000 5 1 2 3 Verdura Pair of Gold Long Gold Tiger’s Eye and Black Onyx Wood, High Karat Gold and Cabochon ‘Twisted Horn’ Earclips Bead Chain Necklace Emerald Ram’s Head Bangle Bracelet 18 kt., the crossover hoops of fluted Composed of 16 tiger’s eye beads The tapered wood bangle terminating in two bombé gold, signed Verdura, ap. 23.3 dwts. ap. 16.0 to 15.5 mm., capped by polished textured and detailed rams’ heads, the pairs C Property of a Pennsylvania Philanthropist gold bands, joined by oval and circle links, of curled horns of ridged gold, with cabochon $2,500-3,500 spaced by 16 black onyx cylinder beads emerald eyes, the swiveled hinge station of capped by polished gold bands. detailed gold. Inner circle 6 1/2 inches, Length 31 1/2 inches. with open front. C C $6,000-8,000 $3,000-4,000 4 5 6 Hermès Gold Ram’s Head Bangle Bracelet Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger Gold and Henry Dunay Gold Necklace 18 kt., the fluted hammered bangle Emerald Ring 18 kt., composed of faceted oval links terminating in a polished ram’s head 18 kt., the openwork crisscrossing ribbon spaced by ribbed links, signed Dunay, accented by inverted marquise-shaped mount centering one octagonal modified no. 05483, ap. 61 dwts. Length 15 7/8 inches. sapphire eyes, with arched ribbed horns, brilliant-cut emerald ap. 3.87 cts., signed C Property of a Pennsylvania Philanthropist signed Hermès Paris, with French assay marks. Tiffany Schlumberger MTG, ap. 7.7 dwts. $3,000-4,000 ap. 58 dwts. Inner circle 6 1/2 inches. Size 7 1/4. C $6,000-8,000 With AGL report no. CS 68942, Colombian origin, no clarity enhancement. C $12,000-18,000 2 DOYLE AUCTIONEERS & APPRAISERS • IMPORTANT JEWELRY • DECEMBER 16, 2020 7 8 9 Gold and Diamond Ring Tiffany & Co. Two-Color Gold and Verdura Pair of Gold, Platinum, Mabé 18 kt., centering one pear-shaped diamond Diamond Necklace Pearl and Diamond ‘Duchess’ Earclips ap. 2.15 cts., atop recessed panels of 18 kt., centering five panels pavé-set in 18 kt., the circular polished gold frames pavé-set round diamonds, ap. 11 dwts. white gold with 50 round diamonds set with 2 mabé pearls ap. 20.0 mm., Size 5. ap. 3.00 cts., continuing to ribbed links, crisscrossed with four platinum bands of overlaid by fluted gold ribbons, 32 round diamonds ap. .95 ct., and four With GIA report no. 1239566 stating F color, signed Tiffany & Co., ap. 58 dwts. polished gold bands, signed Verdura. VS1 clarity. Length 16 1/4 inches. C Property of a Pennsylvania Philanthropist C C $4,000-6,000 $10,000-15,000 $6,000-8,000 10 11 12 David Webb Gold, Platinum, Enamel Verdura Pair of White Gold, Black Onyx White Gold and Diamond Chain Necklace and Diamond Ring and Diamond Earclips 18 kt., the delicate circle link chain spaced 18 kt., of stylized buckle motif, the 18 kt., the black onyx domed buttons by 54 collet-set round diamonds ap. 13.50 cts., octagonal-shaped platinum frame pavé-set bisected by bands of 68 round diamonds completed by a barrel-shaped clasp pavé-set with 34 round diamonds ap. 1.60 cts., ap. 1.85 cts., signed Verdura. with 18 round diamonds ap. .65 ct., ap. 7.6 dwts. the sides applied with alternating white C Property of a Pennsylvania Philanthropist Length 18 inches. and black enamel rectangles, surmounted $3,000-4,000 C by looped bands of chevrons of alternating $15,000-20,000 white and black enamel, signed David Webb, ap. 15.5 dwts. Size 6 1/4, with inner guard. C Property of a Pennsylvania Philanthropist $4,000-6,000 VIEW THE CATALOGUE AND BID ONLINE AT DOYLE.COM 3 13 14 15 Cartier Gold ‘Ronde Louis’ Wristwatch, Ostertag Platinum, Cabochon Sapphire Cartier Platinum ‘Privé’ Tonneau Collection Ref. 2889 and Diamond Dress Set, France Wristwatch, France, Ref. 2470A 18 kt., mechanical, the circular off-white dial Including a pair of double-sided cufflinks Mechanical, the silver-tone guilloché with black Roman numerals, inner 24-hour and four studs, the beveled square panels tonneau-shaped dial with black Roman track indicator, blued steel hands, with round set with two rows of rectangular buff-topped numerals, with sapphire crown, diameter cabochon blue spinel crown and exhibition cabochon sapphires, centering bands of ap. 40 x 26 mm., completed by a black back case, diameter ap. 36 mm., completed 24 baguette diamonds ap. .95 ct., signed croco leather strap with white gold by a black croco leather strap with gold Ostertag France, circa 1930, ap. 10.7 dwts. deployant clasp, movement, case, dial and buckle, movement, case, dial and clasp C bracelet signed Cartier, case no. 114883. signed Cartier, case no. 95319LX. $6,000-8,000 C C $6,000-8,000 $4,000-6,000 16 17 18 Pair of White and Blackened Gold and Gianmaria Buccellati Two-Color Gold, Pair of White Gold, Diamond and Black Diamond Flower Earrings Diamond and Blue Enamel Cuff Enamel Pendant-Earrings The flowers centering diamond clusters, Bangle Bracelet 18 kt., topped and joined by pavé-set encircled by layered petals pavé-set with 18 kt., the cuff applied with blue enamel diamond fancy-shaped and tapered links, round diamonds ap.