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Rhodochrosite Gems Unstable Colouration of Padparadscha-Like
Volume 36 / No. 4 / 2018 Effect of Blue Fluorescence on the Colour Appearance of Diamonds Rhodochrosite Gems The Hope Diamond Unstable Colouration of in London Padparadscha-like Sapphires Volume 36 / No. 4 / 2018 Cover photo: Rhodochrosite is prized as both mineral specimens and faceted stones, which are represented here by ‘The Snail’ (5.5 × 8.6 cm, COLUMNS from N’Chwaning, South Africa) and a 40.14 ct square-cut gemstone from the Sweet Home mine, Colorado, USA. For more on rhodochrosite, see What’s New 275 the article on pp. 332–345 of this issue. Specimens courtesy of Bill Larson J-Smart | SciAps Handheld (Pala International/The Collector, Fallbrook, California, USA); photo by LIBS Unit | SYNTHdetect XL | Ben DeCamp. Bursztynisko, The Amber Magazine | CIBJO 2018 Special Reports | De Beers Diamond ARTICLES Insight Report 2018 | Diamonds — Source to Use 2018 The Effect of Blue Fluorescence on the Colour 298 Proceedings | Gem Testing Appearance of Round-Brilliant-Cut Diamonds Laboratory (Jaipur, India) By Marleen Bouman, Ans Anthonis, John Chapman, Newsletter | IMA List of Gem Stefan Smans and Katrien De Corte Materials Updated | Journal of Jewellery Research | ‘The Curse Out of the Blue: The Hope Diamond in London 316 of the Hope Diamond’ Podcast | By Jack M. Ogden New Diamond Museum in Antwerp Rhodochrosite Gems: Properties and Provenance 332 278 By J. C. (Hanco) Zwaan, Regina Mertz-Kraus, Nathan D. Renfro, Shane F. McClure and Brendan M. Laurs Unstable Colouration of Padparadscha-like Sapphires 346 By Michael S. Krzemnicki, Alexander Klumb and Judith Braun 323 333 © DIVA, Antwerp Home of Diamonds Gem Notes 280 W. -
Download Lot Listing
IMPORTANT JEWELRY Wednesday, December 16, 2020 DOYLE.COM Lot 26 IMPORTANT JEWELRY AUCTION Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 12pm Eastern VIEWINGS BY APPOINTMENT Please contact Laura Chambers to schedule your appointment: [email protected] Safety protocols will be in place with limited capacity. Please maintain social distance during your visit. LOCATION Doyle Auctioneers & Appraisers 175 East 87th Street New York, NY 10128 212-427-2730 DOYLE.COM Sale Info View Lots and Place Bids The journey of the Wilson family from the deep became intimate with “Old New York Society,” summering antebellum South to the pinnacle of New York with their new peers in Newport and traveling to Gilded Age society began with the marriage in 1852 London and Paris. Highlighting the December 16 of the enterprising Georgia-born Richard Thornton auction is an antique natural pearl and diamond tiara Wilson, the son of a tanner and shoemaker, to with provenance of Melissa Clementine Johnston Melissa Clementine Johnston, the daughter of a Wilson (lot 111). She is seen wearing the tiara in a prosperous Tennessee merchant and planter. With an portrait painted by French artist Léon Bonnat initial investment from his new father-in-law, Wilson’s (1833-1922). early business ventures flourished. During the Civil War, Wilson served in important roles in the office of The couple’s five children all made brilliant marriages, the Commissary-General of the Confederacy, traveling to aligning the Wilsons with the some of the most elite London to broker the Southern cotton crop. families of New York and Great Britain and earning Emerging from the war $500,000 richer, he began them the moniker, “The Marrying Wilsons.” buying up defunct railroads. -
The Good Germans the Hemmerles, Munich’S First Family of Jewelry, Design Baubles That Are Truly One of a Kind
Clockwise from left: Chris- tian and Stefan Hemmerle at home; Hemmerle’s 18k white gold, black iron and aquamarine ring, 18k red gold, moonstone, amethyst and sapphire brooch, and 18k white gold, red patinated copper, spinel and amethyst earrings, prices available upon request, at Hemmerle, 011.800.2422.6000. ccessories ∂lash ccessories a W The Good Germans The Hemmerles, Munich’s first family of jewelry, design baubles that are truly one of a kind. Photographs by S t e f a n K o r t e t’s not every client request that 230 pieces of haute joaillerie each year in its inspires a designer to branch off into a 12-artisan Munich workshop, is renowned direction he never before imagined— for its austere architectural settings ren- I and subsequently to develop an entirely dered in unorthodox materials including new style in doing so. But that’s exactly how copper, stainless steel, brass, aluminum and the German jewelry house Hemmerle came rare woods, and for its use of exquisitely to enjoy its current status as one of today’s cut colored gemstones. The heaviness of most inventive and sought-after jewelers. a masculine charcoal-hued iron band, for It all began in 1995, when a prominent instance, only enhances the sharp angles of Munich art collector commissioned Ste- an emerald-cut 40-carat electric blue aqua- fan Hemmerle, a third-generation jeweler, marine ring, while the warm hues of orange to create a birthday present for his wife, a and red patinated copper perfectly com- woman who detested flashy gems. -
Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana
Report of Investigation 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg 2015 Cover photo by Richard Berg. Sapphires (very pale green and colorless) concentrated by panning. The small red grains are garnets, commonly found with sapphires in western Montana, and the black sand is mainly magnetite. Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology MBMG Report of Investigation 23 2015 i Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ............................................................................................................................1 Descriptions of Occurrences ..................................................................................................7 Selected Bibliography of Articles on Montana Sapphires ................................................... 75 General Montana ............................................................................................................75 Yogo ................................................................................................................................ 75 Southwestern Montana Alluvial Deposits........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Rock Creek sapphire district ........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Dry Cottonwood Creek deposit and the Butte area .................................... -
F I N E C R a F T J E W E L R Y C O L L E C T I O N 2014
F i n e C r a f t J e w e l r y C o l l e c t i o n 2014 www.MarthaSeelyDesign.com y jewelry is always a reflection of the art forms that have inspired me over the years: Fiber, fashion, and the grace of natural forms; The boldness of architectural concepts; The simplicity of cold connections, and the kinetic energy of objects in M motion. It expresses in precious metal and gemstones, the strongest influences in my life as a designer: clothing/costume design, art history (with a special fondness for the Art Nouveau /Art Deco movements) and the uniqueness and strength of individual style. Floral Nouveau was inspired by my love of the Art Nouveau (and Deco) movement of the late Curved lines nineteenth century. It is contemporary and feminine. The woven wire combines my love of fiber with the asymmetrical, sinuous vines used widely within Art Nouveau art and design. and vines, woven Floral Architecture is layered contemporary jewelry with simple construction techniques where together. stones seem to float in their floral frames. The floral shapes are simple, layered and riveted together, sometimes flat and sometimes hammered and sculptural. Hammered and Echo Structures are multi-layers of simple, architectural shapes. Rivets. Textures. Con- sometimes sculptural trasts. Brilliant colored stones. Modern and clean. flowers. Formed and Winged Secrets are edgy, formed, textured and riveted flying insects. Sometimes the wings riveted flying insects. move, sometimes not. They are made in silver and gold with large faceted gemstone heads. Everything is handmade, hand formed and one of a kind. -
Spinel and Its Treatments: a Current Status Report
GEMOLOGY Spinel and its Treatments: A Current Status Report By Christopher P. Smith, American Gemological Laboratories Introduction and they are only rarely encountered Clarity Enhancement by the major labs around the world. Spinel has historically been one of However, the author has noticed a The practice of filling fissures to reduce the most highly revered gemstones. general increase in the attempts to their visibility and improve the apparent However, over an extended period improve spinel quality and color, clarity of a gemstone is probably of time, its popularity had suffered utilizing a variety of treatment the single most prevalent treatment as a result of many factors, including practices. applied to gemstones. Oils and other its classification as “semi-precious” and a general confusion with another dominant red gemstone: ruby. More recently though, spinel has been making a strong comeback and so its popularity is once again on the rise. Articles of important new sources and even a book devoted to this beautiful and colorfully diverse gemstone have helped to focus attention back onto spinel (see e.g. Smith et.al., 2007; Senoble, 2008; Pardieu et.al., 2009; Krzemnicki, 2010; Yavorskyy and Hughes, 2010). In addition to exhibiting a vibrant array of shades and nuances of color, spinel has also traditionally been spared the controversy of treatments that have encumbered many other gem varieties, such as ruby, sapphire, emerald, quartz, topaz and tanzanite among others. Fortunately, spinel remains a gemstone that is generally free of treatment considerations. However, today some treatments are starting to be encountered (Robertson, 2012). This article is a review of those treatments and the gemological characteristics that help to distinguish them. -
MAGAZINE • LEAWOOD, KS SPECIAL EDITION 2016 ISSUE 3 Fine Jewelers Magazine
A TUFTS COMMUNICATIONS fine jewelry PUBLICATION MAZZARESE MAGAZINE • LEAWOOD, KS SPECIAL EDITION 2016 ISSUE 3 fine jewelers magazine Chopard: Racing Special The New Ferrari 488 GTB The Natural Flair of John Hardy Black Beauties Omega’s New 007 SPECIAL EDITION 2016 • ISSUE 3 MAZZARESE FINE JEWELERS MAGAZINE • SPECIAL EDITION 2016 welcome It is our belief that we have an indelible link with the past and a responsibility to the future. In representing the fourth generation of master jewelers and craftsmen, and even as the keepers of a second generation family business, we believe that the responsibility to continually evolve and develop lies with us. We endeavor to always stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch trends and innovations. We stay true to our high standards and objectives set forth by those that came before us by delivering a jewelry experience like no other; through the utmost attention to service, knowledge and value. Every great story begins with a spark of inspiration. We are reminded day after day of our spark of inspiration: you, our esteemed customer. Your stories help drive our passion to pursue the finest quality pieces. It is a privilege that we are trusted to provide the perfect gift; one that stands the test of time and is passed along through generations. We find great joy in assisting the eager couple searching for the perfect engagement ring, as they embark on a lifetime of love, helping to select a quality timepiece, or sourcing a rare jewel to mark and celebrate a milestone. We are dedicated to creating an experience that nurtures relationships and allows those who visit our store to enter as customers, but leave as members of our family. -
Supporting Contemporary Makers
Supporting contemporary makers Acquisitions for the Goldsmiths’ Company Collection 2019–2020 Dr Dora Thornton Supporting contemporary makers: acquisitions for the Goldsmiths’ Company Collection 2019–20 The Goldsmiths’ Company has supported excellence, craftsmanship and skills in the goldsmiths’ community ever since the Company received its first Royal charter in 1327. The Company now has one of the finest collections of British silver, including contemporary and historic plate, modern jewellery and art medals. Much of the Collection is still used for its original purpose. Jewellery is worn at occasions in the Hall. Pieces are also displayed in exhibitions and lent elsewhere, as well as being used for teaching the next generations of makers, our apprentices at the Goldsmiths’ Centre, and promoting wider knowledge and patronage of the craft. Our ambitious plans to digitise our collections will eventually make much of our material—objects and archives—freely available online through our website to show who we are and what we do. This booklet describes the Company’s acquisitions, which are overseen by the Contemporary Craft Committee, over one year, from April 2019 to April 2020. Many of the purchases—and one commission—are the work of makers who are new to the Collection. Commissions completed this year include a superb brooch; two very different portrait medals of Prime Wardens of the Company; and three Court Cups, designed to be used by individual members of the Court of Assistants in the Hall. The cups are paid for by the Company and since 2018 have formed part of the Collection; they advertise the work of particular makers and excellence in the trade while also recording much about their individual patrons. -
Professional-Jeweler-June-1999
GEMOLOGY The Case for Red Emerald A rare North American beryl with an identity crisis hich is easier to remember says consumers would accept the name and understand: bixbite or red emerald more readily. W red emerald? But using the name red emerald is This red member of the beryl family fraught with gemological controversy. has been called bixbite almost since Here's a look at both sides of the issue. Maynard Bixby discovered it in 1897. But the awkward name, meager produc Arguments Against Red Emerald tion and small gems have relegated the • Definition. In antiquity, smaragdos, material to a role as a rare gemological the Greek root word for emerald, curiosity. referred to green gems that mayor Now Gemstone Mining Inc., Cedar may not have been emeralds. The City, UT, the owner of the only known modern definition for emerald is sat bixbite deposit - the Ruby Violet claim urated bluish green, green or yel in Utah's Wah-,wah mountain range - lowish green beryl. Emerald is a plans to increase production and make synonym for green. more material available by fall. Settling • Respect for Bixby. Calling red beryl on a salable trade name now is significant for retailers who plan to market the gemstone. The History Red beryl has many mar ketable attributes. It pos sesses the same physical and chemical characteristics as emerald, except it's colored by microscopic traces of manganese (emerald is col ored by chromium and!or vanadium). It's natural, the only known source is in the U.S. and producers say a lot of material lies waiting for mechanized production. -
Mineral Collecting Sites in North Carolina by W
.'.' .., Mineral Collecting Sites in North Carolina By W. F. Wilson and B. J. McKenzie RUTILE GUMMITE IN GARNET RUBY CORUNDUM GOLD TORBERNITE GARNET IN MICA ANATASE RUTILE AJTUNITE AND TORBERNITE THULITE AND PYRITE MONAZITE EMERALD CUPRITE SMOKY QUARTZ ZIRCON TORBERNITE ~/ UBRAR'l USE ONLV ,~O NOT REMOVE. fROM LIBRARY N. C. GEOLOGICAL SUHVEY Information Circular 24 Mineral Collecting Sites in North Carolina By W. F. Wilson and B. J. McKenzie Raleigh 1978 Second Printing 1980. Additional copies of this publication may be obtained from: North CarOlina Department of Natural Resources and Community Development Geological Survey Section P. O. Box 27687 ~ Raleigh. N. C. 27611 1823 --~- GEOLOGICAL SURVEY SECTION The Geological Survey Section shall, by law"...make such exami nation, survey, and mapping of the geology, mineralogy, and topo graphy of the state, including their industrial and economic utilization as it may consider necessary." In carrying out its duties under this law, the section promotes the wise conservation and use of mineral resources by industry, commerce, agriculture, and other governmental agencies for the general welfare of the citizens of North Carolina. The Section conducts a number of basic and applied research projects in environmental resource planning, mineral resource explora tion, mineral statistics, and systematic geologic mapping. Services constitute a major portion ofthe Sections's activities and include identi fying rock and mineral samples submitted by the citizens of the state and providing consulting services and specially prepared reports to other agencies that require geological information. The Geological Survey Section publishes results of research in a series of Bulletins, Economic Papers, Information Circulars, Educa tional Series, Geologic Maps, and Special Publications. -
Gem Wealth of Tanzania GEMS & GEMOLOGY Summer 1992 Fipe 1
By Dona M.Dirlarn, Elise B. Misiorowski, Rosemaiy Tozer, Karen B. Stark, and Allen M.Bassett The East African nation of Tanzania has he United Republic of Tanzania, the largest of the East great gem wealth. First known by Western- 1African countries, is composed of mainland Tanzania and ers for its diamonds, Tanzania emerged in the island of Zanzibar. 1t is regarded by many as the birthplace the 1960s as a producer of a great variety of of the earliest ancestors of Homo sapiens. To the gem indus- other gems such as tanzanite, ruby, fancy- try, however, Tanzania is one of the most promising fron- colored sapphire, garnet, and tourmaline; to date, more than 50 gem species and vari- tiers, with 50 gem species and varieties identified, to date, eties have been produced. As the 1990s from more than 200 occurrences. begin, De Beers has reinstated diamond "Modem" mining started in the gold fields of Tanzania in exploration in Tanzania, new gem materials the late 1890s (Ngunangwa, 19821, but modem diamond min- such as transparent green zoisite have ing did not start until 1925, and nearly all mining of colored appeared on the market, and there is stones has taken place since 1950. Even so, only a few of the increasing interest in Tanzania's lesser- gem materials identified have been exploited to any significant known gems such as scapolite, spinel, and extent: diamond, ruby, sapphire, purplish blue zoisite (tan- zircon. This overview describes the main zanite; figure l),and green grossular [tsavorite)and other gar- gems and gem resources of Tanzania, and nets. -
Gems and Minerals in the Mcferrin Fabergé Collection
GEMS AND MINERALS IN THE MCFERRIN FABERGÉ COLLECTION: A STUDY Presented by Christel McCanless,Annemiek Wintraecken, and Tim Adams Fabergé International Symposium Houston, Texas January 31, 2013 Organic Materials from Trees and the Oceans Gems and Minerals Mined from the Earth Rock Stars Demonstration Team, Houston Museum of Natural Science Tours – Cullen Hall of Gems & Minerals and the Smith Gem Vault, Docents All illustrations are courtesy of the Artie and Dorothy McFerrin Collection, unless otherwise noted. Fabergé Sorting Loose Stones ca. 1915 • 1908 Lapidary workshop at 44 Angliskii Prospekt, St. Petersburg, employing 30 craftsmen by 1912. • Hardstone animals and Russian folkloristic figures are not always marked Fabergé, unless they have added gold or silver decorations. • Study goals: Gem and mineral identification and discovery of historical details. Brown Agate, 18 ct. gold, diamondeyes, Zarnitza Sailor H.W. Henrik Wigström (1862-1923) (Virginia Museum of FineArts) (The Hodges Family Collection) Research Clues: London Sales Ledgers, October 14, 1913 Milky White Agate, Onyx or Chalcedony? I. Organic Materials from Trees and the Oceans Karelian Birch – Hard wood with bulbous growth, caused by a genetic defect of a tree growing in a sub-arctic climate Silver Birch Insights on the Appliques: (Wikipedia) Possibly a present from a woman closely connected to the man on the photo, perhaps a soldier going back to the battlefield after a vacation in July 1915 … Presented by Lyusya Messalineta, possibly a diminutive version of name Messalina,