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FEBRUARY 2020 AMERICA’S LEAST BORING BILLIONAIRES

The STRANGE CASE of the VA NISHING PRINCESSES

T&C’s FANCY SAFARI Guide

HOW NOT TO RAISE A BRAT

WELR JE Y TheThe RightRight WayWay toto SSpendpend YYourour BBonus!onus! A S W A R D

Aine Jewelsrin that L Madeau Historyder DON PENNY, STYLED BY MIAKO KATOH member oftheestablishment.member evolution ofarisingtalent intoacelebrated at theMuséedesArtsDécoratifs signaledthe and rare stones she showed this year the HarmonyHighJewelry Collectionof classics, thathave modern become but stones with earcusandaMiriansemicircle herself asaskilledsculptorofmetal and designer AnaKhourihadalready established torque dujourofParis Couture! TheBrazilian It was thediamondandParaiba tourmaline ANA KHOURI HIGH JEWELRY JEWELRY TROUSSEAU THERENAISSANCE￿ADIAMOND AND THEMOB ￿RIHANNA AND Breakthrough The Major W S D R AWA and reigning champions who Jewelry marked the year in jewels. The new masters masters new The THE T&C

￿ ANA￿ KHOURI TOP FROM ANAKHOURI.COM , ￿ $824,000 ￿ PHILLIPA TOURMALINE PARAIBA AND ￿￿ $461,000 ￿ NECKLACE EVA EMERALD AND DIAMOND DIAMOND The ultimate getting-ready selfie: a white bathrobe and a 128-carat The Red Carpet diamond. Appearance LADY GAGA IN THE TIFFANY DIAMOND

Was it the most expensive jewel ever worn to the ? Worth a reported $30million, it’s likely that Lady Gaga’s Tif- fany diamond necklace claims that title. (The previous record was held by Titanic actress Gloria Stuart’s $20million Harry Winston blue diamond, inspired by the movie’s Heart of the Ocean.) But that was actually not why this particular diamond necklace sent jewelry experts into a frenzy on Oscar night. The 128-carat fancy yellow Tiany diamond had been worn publicly by only two other

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The Jewels that Broke the Internet

What makes a piece of jewelry go viral? We like to think it’s some combination of star power, cultural cred, and just really good design. But a little bit of mystery helps too. From a surpris- 293,426 likes 1,096 likes 4,379 likes ing moment on the red carpet to the instant we saw J.Lo’s emerald-cut diamond engage- ment ring from Alex Rodriguez, we scoured Burmese rubies are said to wardward Pass on the $120,000$120,000 banana.banana. An iconic necklace that CCartierartier the internet and consulted experts like Marion offoff evil.evil. Queen Elizabeth wasn’t This Suzanne Syz asparagus mademade fforor MaríaMaría FFélixélix in 1975 gets Fasel, founder of online jewelry magazine the shading Trump, but the internet bracelet is the real status an upgrade: 46.45 carats of rare Adventurine. The proof is in the likes. sure wished otherwise. produce. cabochon-cut emeralds.

52 FEBRUARY 2020 | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM

GETTY IMAGES ￿CAPRI￿￿ JON KOPALOFF￿GETTY IMAGES ￿MIRREN￿ not reveal engagement Rodriguez’s R Alex and J.Lo could How sunset. stunning A diamond. colossal A o d break theinternet? r i g u e z ’ s e n million likes 6.6million ￿ The Campaign g that Mattered a g e DPA#REALISRARE J . m without sacrificingeven onebitofglamour. tri, who challengestheconventions ofhighjewelry the real starwas thefearless work ofLuciaSilves- Italian film. There were royals andcelebrities, but lection inspired bytheheyday of hosted inCapritocelebrate aHighJewelry Col- event thethree-day ing monkishabout The dinnerwas inamonastery, butthere was noth- L o e n a t n r d e A v e l e a g x l to Remember CINEMAGIA CAPRI, rubies, and 98 diamonds. 98 and rubies, faceted and cabochon 24 gold, g in them encasing is jar, Verdura a in shells collecting you’re While The Event o l d , BULGARI 4,258 likes 4,258 e n c a s i la dolcevita n g t h e m i n BRIGHT THINGS

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air to to air ￿ adds necklace Cinemagia A TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM | FEBRUARY | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM 2020 HIGH JEWELRY JEWELRY HIGH 800￿BULGARI CINEMAGIA CINEMAGIA EARRINGS , ￿ $111,132 ￿ BULGARI BULGARI 53 The Auction Heard Round the World $3.015M MAHARAJAS & MUGHAL MAGNIFICENCE An antique spinel, , and emerald necklace, 17th century.

Model Teresa Lourenco-Antebi $735K wears an antique Price realized for an antique diamond and spinel diamond and enamel peacock sarpech and an aigrette by Mellerio dits Meller. antique diamond and emerald necklace. Photographed by Claiborne Swanson Frank for Christie’s.

$339K A diamond and emerald bead brooch from Bhagat went for double its estimate of $100,000–$150,000. $550K A diamond, cacholong, , and titanium brooch by $1.575M JAR, , 2013. An emerald-, ruby-, and diamond-set gold state pen case and inkwell from central India, late 16th century. $10.6M “Jewelry sale of the century” is a daunting phrase, and A Belle Epoque yet it is how many described last June’s auction of 400 devant-de-corsage gemstones and jeweled objects from the Al-Thani col- brooch by Cartier, lection at Christie’s New York. Five hundred years of Paris, 1912. history were on display—some of the most import- ant pieces commissioned by noble families of India as well as rare examples from the great European jewelry houses (particularly Cartier). The yield was as impres- sive as the Golcondas: $109.3million, second-highest $975K ever for a private jewelry sale. The Patiala ruby choker, an Art Deco diamond and natural pearl necklace by Cartier, belonged to the maharaja of Patiala. ANTEBI ￿ ￿ LOURENCO ￿ TERESA CHRISTIE’S FRANK FOR ￿ CLAIBORNE SWANSON AND PHOTOGRAPHER DIRECTOR CREATIVE

54 FEBRUARY 2020 | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM BRIGHT THINGS

The Feel-Good Jewel What do you get when you multiply 27 by 3 by charms in the shape of hearts, arrows, and keys, 300? A whole lot of good. Muse—the fine jew- with 10 percent of proceeds going to charities MUSE HAS A HEART elry showroom that represents the likes of Sil- dedicated to ALS, hunger, and mental health. via Furmanovich and Nikos Koulis—partnered It’s the holy grail of giving back: philanthropy with 27 independent designers to create 300 that looks as good as it feels.

ELENA VOTSI CHAIN ￿$4,970￿. CHARMS, FROM LEFT￿ GUITA M CHARM ￿$2,640￿￿ ELIE TOP CHARM ￿$8,305￿￿ TEN THOUSAND THINGS ROSE QUARTZ CHARM ￿$350￿￿ LITO PENDANT ￿$8,160￿￿ NANCY NEWBERG POLISHED RUTHENIUM CHARM ￿$3,520￿￿ SUZANNE SYZ LIFESAVER CHARM ￿$7,405￿￿ VRAM CHARM WITH HEART￿SHAPED RUBY ￿$3,960￿￿ ELENA VOTSI EROS HEART ￿$17,050￿￿ BEA￿BONGIASCA CHARM WITH WHITE ENAMEL ￿$2,510￿￿ MARK DAVIS YELLOW HEART CHARM ￿$1,090￿￿ ELIE TOP CHARM ￿$7,940￿￿ TEN THOUSAND THINGS CHARM ￿$275￿￿ SILVIA FURMANOVICH CHARM WITH LABRADORITE SCARAB ￿$4,400￿￿ SYLVA & CIE CHARM ￿$38,940￿￿ MICHELLE FANTACI KEY CHARM ￿$1,660￿￿ STEPHANIE WINDSOR CHARM ￿$11,420￿￿ MARIA CANALE ￿$1,100￿￿ TARA HIRSHBERG HALO HEART CHARM ￿$2,660￿￿ MARLO LAZ CHARM ￿$4,590￿￿ FEDERICA RETTORE CHARM WITH LIGHT BLUE AND PINK ENAMEL ￿$6,040￿￿ CHRISTINA ALEXIOU HEART WITH TOURMALINE HEART AND TOURMALINE ￿$4,520￿. AVAILABLE AT￿ MUSE SHOWROOM, 212￿463￿7950

The Watch The Future

ROLEX They’re bright, fearless, and highly collectible. They’re the designers to watch from our 2020 class. And there’s some- thing else these talents have that’s always in short supply: The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date is best known for its dignified a point of view, the kind that keeps us intrigued. President bracelet, so called for its popularity with heads of state, including Lyndon Johnson. With its gem-set bezels and colorful SARAH HO dials, the latest generation, the Day-Date 36, enters the new The London jeweler’s romantic, decade with a welcome pep in its step. highly personal designs stand out thanks to rare materials like pink Persica conch . SARAH HO “FLARE” RUBELLITE RING WITH RED ENAMEL ￿$10,500￿, SHOJEWELLERY.COM DAVID MICHAEL ROLEX DAY￿DATE 36 YELLOW GOLD ￿$56,550￿, The 15 bespoke designs twin ROLEX.COM brothers David and Michael Robinson make each year in their Australian studio are voraciously collected. DAVID MICHAEL JEWELS , SAPPHIRE, AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, 212￿570￿6900 LOREN NICOLE A former archaeologist, Loren Teetelli works exclusively in 22K gold, just like the ancients. LOREN NICOLE AMULET RING￿ TAWARET ￿$11,280￿, MUSEUMSTORE.HMNS.ORG EMMANUEL TARPIN At 25 he set up his atelier. At 27 he became the first artist in residence at de￿Grisogono. More is in store, no doubt. DE GRISOGONO X EMMANUEL TARPIN EARRINGS IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH WHITE AND BLACK DIAMONDS ￿$103,100￿, DEGRISOGONO.COM The Major Sale THE BOIVIN STARFISH The Collection CARTIER MAGNITUDE

CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELRY NECKLACE AND EARRINGS, 800￿CARTIER

JULIETTE MOUTARD FOR RENE BOIVIN STARFISH BROOCH

This brooch, a fully articulated sea creature of rubies and amethysts four inches across, was produced for Claudette Colbert at René Boivin in 1937. On June 20 it was announced The Tutti Frutti. The Reine Makeda. The Colombian emeralds are paired with rock that it had been acquired for Boston’s Museum Coloratura. Since its founding in 1847, crystal; purple and garnets sur- of Fine Arts from dealer Lee Siegelson. It is Cartier has been at the forefront of innova- round a volcanic matrix opal; rubies play with believed that four Starfish were created; the tive high jewelry beloved by queens, mahara- amazonite; brilliant-cut diamonds encircle brooch is the subject of a book, Diving for Star- jas, heiresses, and movie stars. The maison’s a cabochon-cut rutilated quartz. Now, this is fish, that chronicles the pieces’ many lives and latest collection, Magnitude, is another stun- how you mix things up. Jewelers worship jux- many owners. The one now owned by the ning display of jewelrymaking and also an tapositions like these; Cartier pioneered them, MFA has been certified as Colbert’s. It’s a leg- exaltation of an approach rarely seen in and this collection proves the company is not end in the jewelry world. “How many jewels high jewelry: the marriage of high and low. resting on its laurels. have this kind of charisma?” Siegelson asks.

The Gold We Love

The original status adornment remains a fixation millennia aer the Egyptians first idolized its spiritual qualities. Irene Neuwirth uses floral motifs in her designs, and Prounis channels the boat-shaped forms of antiquity. VRAM’s sculptural rings are VRAM PROUNIS IRENE NEUWIRTH POMELLATO for everyday and elevated wear, while CHRONA HYPER BAND RING 22K GOLD GRANULATED SUPER BLOOM EARRINGS WITH FULL ICONICA BAVAROLE NECKLACE IN 18K the oversize links of Pomellato’s Icon- ￿$3,800￿, BOAT￿SHAPED HOOPS ￿$6,280￿, CUT DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD ROSE GOLD ￿$60,000￿, ica collection redefine power dressing. VRAMJEWELRY.COM PROUNISJEWELRY.COM ￿$31,980￿, IRENENEUWIRTH.COM POMELLATO.COM

56 FEBRUARY 2020 | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM BRIGHT THINGS

Six The Crown

Some of the year’s most prominent screen gems, clockwise from left: Helena Bonham Carter in The Crown; the cast of Succession; Adam Sandler in Uncut Gems; in Catherine the Great; Elizabeth McGovern and Hugh Bonneville in Downton Abbey; Robert De Niro in The Irishman; and Henry￿VIII, whose marriages inspired the Broadway musical Six.

Succession

The Jewels of Stage and Screen

Leave it to critics to debate whether Robert Uncut Gems DeNiro or Joe Pesci was the true star of The Irishman; as far as T&C is concerned it was the jewelry—from pinkie rings to gold chains— that truly stole the show. And that wasn’t the year’s only instance of upstaging jewelry. From Adam Sandler’s turn as a Diamond District screwup in Uncut Gems to Helen Mirren’s tour de force Catherine the Great, the year’s most talked-about performances featured cameos— no pun intended—by blockbuster bling. The Irishman Up next is Broadway’s Six, a musical about HenryVIII’s bejeweled but doomed wives.

Downton Abbey

Catherine the Great THE GREAT CATHERINE ￿ ￿￿ HBO ￿ UNCUT GEMS ￿￿ A24 SUCCESSION ABBEY, ￿ DOWNTON ￿￿ EVERETT COLLECTION CARTER ￿ BONHAM WILLIE ￿ NETFLIX VIII ￿￿ DES GETTY ￿ IRISHMAN, HENRY IMAGES

TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM | FEBRUARY 2020 57 B R I G H T T H I N G S

The Innovators

DAVID YURMAN

One great piece is admirable; decades of them is extraordi- nary. True mavericks, the Yurmans celebrate 40 years of jewels and constant evolution with their 57th Street flagship. DAVID YURMAN ARTIST SERIES NECKLACE WITH TURQUOISE STONES AND PAVE RUBIES, DAVIDYURMAN.COM

DANIEL BRUSH

The Champion JORDAN ROTH

In a year that saw the grand return of the time-honored tradition of men wear- A master class in ingenuity and imagination, his ing jewelry (see: kings and maharajas and new Rizzoli monograph Jewels Sculpture should be required J.P.Morgan and Diplo and Timothée Cha- reading for anyone looking to design outside the box. lamet and Justin Theroux), Tony-winning DANIEL BRUSH EMPRESS DOWAGER , SIEGELSON.COM producer Jordan Roth stands out as a leader of the charge. “Jewelry has become a very meaningful part of my fashion pal- ette to paint my story,” he wrote aer host- ing opening night at Saks Fih Avenue’s new jewelry floor, the Vault. “To express who I am and how I feel, both to you and to myself.” He has done exactly that while supporting such independent talents as the Paris wunderkind Emmanuel Tarpin and the Brazilian genius Silvia Fur- manovich, while also showcasing a taste for legends like Belperron and David Webb. And all the while sharing the sheer joy Francesca Amfitheatrof’s debut collection was that comes with wear- inspired by “legends and audacity.” Her evocative necklaces ing a great piece referencing medieval armor had plenty of both. of jewelry. LOUIS VUITTON LE ROYAUME SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE ￿$2,208,000￿, LOUISVUITTON.COM

SABBA Alessandro Sabbatini, 31, is a jewelry prodigy whose elaborate earrings and bracelets are a symphony of “Giving me life”: what jewelry superlative stones, hundreds of them at a time. does for Jordan Roth. From He’s in demand because he makes only 40 pieces a year. top: David Webb necklace and Zac Posen dress (worn ￿ 4

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backward); Kris Ruhs necklace H T

SABBA and Norma Kamali jumpsuit; O R ￿ CHRYSOPRASE, vintage Boucher necklace from S E

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￿ then, timedto anelectionyear. perfectly Holman ofLondon gallery Wartski. Arevival, ers. Elizabeth I did this oen,” says Thomas made andthengave themtoloyal support- tons? “Leaders o en had cameos of themselves but- campaign first the were cameos know you Plaza Athénée and Sotheby’s London. And did ture show, and Hemmerle showed theirs at the presented theircameos attheLasVegas Cou- able through Gagosian Gallery. Sylva & Cie Opie on a series of whimsical pieces now avail- with artists Cindy Sherman and Catherine collaborated Swig Liz spring last cameos.And the future with “See NoEvil” andskullring collection, a when he brought cra the centuries-old into released miglio first launched the cameo revolution Rihanna and itwasyear timetoreconsider. AmedeoScogna- this Well, whenRemember cameos were old-fashioned? CENTER ￿ .COM ￿ SOLANGE.CO.UK ENAMEL, GLASS GREEN AND DIAMONDS WITH NECKLACE GOLD YELLOW 18K ￿ MONICARICHKOSANN.COM , ￿ $535 ￿ LOCKET ROUND VERMEIL ENAMEL RED AND , ￿ $590 ￿ SAPPHIRE BLUE WITH LOCKET VERMEIL ENAMEL WHITE , ￿ $615 ￿ LOCKET SIGWARDJEWELRY.COM￿ ALICE CICOLINI DAVID WEBB DAVID The Grand Revival PISCES BRACELET WITHCABOCHON RUBIES, AND DIAMONDS,LIGHT BLUE AND EMERALDS ￿$116,000 ENAMEL ￿, DAVIDWEBB.COM. ￿ MAHNAZCOLLECTION.COM , ￿ $15,000 ￿ ENAMEL VITREOUS AND DIAMOND CHAMPAGNE WITH RING SAPPHIRE STAR SNOW SUMMER GOLD 22K BEA BONGIASCA CAMEOS 9KYELLOW WITHMARQUISEDROP AND CUTROCK VINEEARRINGS CRYSTAL GOLDSINGLECURL ￿$1,450 WHITEENAMEL AND ￿, MODAOPERANDI.COM even thetrained eye wonders, “How didtheydothat?” using gemstones. examples, Beholdingthesemodern to catch theeye without with startlingcolorsandshapes centuryBC isnowembraced byyoung designerseager An ancientartform used as farbackthe13th sister of Napoleon. Bonaparte, Pauline The Material NINA RUNSDORF HEMMERLE.COM NECKLACE, HEMMERLE Good ENAMEL 404￿237 ￿9000 , ￿ $12,250 ￿ RING CAMEO MICHAEL ARCHANGEL CIE & SYLVA PHOENIX FAN ￿$67,500 ENAMEL RED AND INWHITE GOLDWITHSLICEDIAMONDS EARRINGS ￿, NINARUNSDORF

TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM | FEBRUARY | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM 2020

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT￿ SIG WARD AMEDEO.SHOP , ￿ $1,800 ￿ EARRINGS SHELL CORNELIAN AMEDEO MONICA KOSANN RICH , ￿ $4,620 ￿ RING ENAMEL TANZANITE GOLD YELLOW 18K FAIRIES 50MM 50MM FAIRIES SOLANGE AZAGURYSOLANGE ￿PARTRIDGE BLUE ENAMEL VERMEIL OVAL VERMEIL ENAMEL BLUE LIZWORKS.NET , ￿ $22,500 ￿ SHERMAN CINDY BY RING HALO LIZWORKS for Rihanna’s Rihanna’s for A portrait by portrait A line of Fenty of line Ruth Ossai Ossai Ruth jewelry.

59 60 Russian-style tiara backintothespotlight. descent pasteldream. AndChanelbrought a abalone, diamond, andtsavorite tocreate aniri- meanwhile, masterfully mixedsuchmaterialsas rings.spirit ofstatement1950scocktail Lugano, pink spinelsandMandaringarnets, thathonorthe Winston Candy collectionfeature rare stones, like romantic colors. ringsinthe Theone-of-a-kind as muchflairandswagger when theygofor bold, diamonds, butthisyear theyproved theyhave just These designersare thenamestoknowfor white FEBRUARY 2020 |TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM Marquise, pear, and brilliant- pear,and Marquise, pair of delicate angelwings. MESSIKA PARISMESSIKA entirely by hand to form a form to hand by entirely The Colored Stones cut diamonds are crafted crafted are diamonds cut RING ￿$27,880￿, MESSIKA.COM MESSIKA ANGEL TOI & MOI MOI & TOI ANGEL T CHANEL FINEJEWELRYCHANEL whimsical shades. in comeback stunning a makes tiara Kokoshnik The CHANEL HARRY WINSTON it. surrounding gems of halo the or center the at garnet tsavorite 13.51-carat the more: love we what decide Wecan’t HARRY WINSTON RING, HARRYWINSTON.COM TIARA ￿$413,800TIARA ￿, CHANEL.COM LUGANODIAMONDS.COM RING, BUTTERFLY ABALONE DIAMONDS LUGANO setting. any in flight take would ring butterfly this finger, your on Alighting DIAMONDS LUGANO h W e

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the Brazilian designer’s work. ￿$157,000￿ , FERNANDOJORGE.CO.UK Laid-back sensuality infuses infuses sensuality Laid-back FERNANDO JORGEFERNANDO And that’s before he throws throws he before that’s And and one-of-a-kind detailsmake themagiclastforever.and one-of-a-kind Beers,De Coin—prove andRoberto thatsingulardesign ple will ever do. Thesestandouts—Jessica McCormack, bridal jewelry, isoneofthemostromantic thingsacou- ring, it’seasytoforget thatbuying jewelry, especially During thehigh-stakes search for engagement theperfect ment, andflexibility. The result: sheerbrilliance. f a Diamonds are revered for theirhardness—the word comesfrom an BRILLIANT GALAXY EARRINGS EARRINGS GALAXY BRILLIANT o n FERNANDO JORGEFERNANDO in lots of diamonds. u c n i e d n

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62 FEBRUARY 2020 | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM