IMPORTANT JEWELRY Friday, December 13, 2019 NEW YORK IMPORTANT JEWELRY AUCTION Friday, December 13, 2019 at 10am EXHIBITION Saturday, December 7, 10am – 5pm Sunday, December 8, Noon – 5pm Monday, December 9, 11am – 7pm Tuesday, December 10, 10am – 4pm LOCATION Doyle 175 East 87th Street New York City 212-427-2730 www.Doyle.com Catalog: $35 INCLUDING PROPERTY FROM THE ESTATES OF Lucie T. Bard A Chester County, PA Estate Mary C. Graff Ruth Lax A Broadway Actress Jo Sullivan Loesser Mary Max Janine Metz Sarah A.T. Mills Co-founder of the Dance Theatre of Harlem, Mr. Arthur Mitchell's Estate Sale A New York Estate A Prominent New York Family A New York and North Carolina Estate A Distinguished New York and Palm Beach Lady A Prominent Philadelphia Collector Rosa Strygler Jocelyn Marshall Wallace, New York, NY INCLUDING PROPERTY FROM Peter J. & Mary Ann Ruda Brickfield Revocable Living Trust Gloria D’Elia The Collection of a Florida Lady A Lady A Miami Lady A Morristown, NJ Collector A New Jersey Collection A New York City Collector A Wall Street Collector A Western Gal CONTENTS Important Jewelry 1-506 Glossary I Conditions of Sale II Terms of Guarantee III Information on Sales & Use Tax IV Buying at Doyle V Selling at Doyle VII Company Directory VIII Absentee Bid Form X THE ESTATE OF JANINE METZ Doyle is honored to auction jewelry from the Estate of Janine Metz, who was the Social Secretary to the Duchess of Windsor from 1962 to 1972. The daughter of Parisian couturier Jack Spaner and his wife Jacqueline Brassiens, the former Janine Spaner (1928-2019) moved Wearing lot 30 to New York in the 1950s, where she worked as office manager of the Air France office on lower Broadway. She returned to Paris with the LOT 464 goal of finding a husband, and, on a lark, answered an ad in Le Monde placed by a “Couple de diplomates” in search of a “secretaire particuliere.” Following a series of five interviews, among them with the Duke and the Duchess of Windsor, she was chosen over many applicants and became for a decade the trusted assistant and confidant of one of the world’s most famous and fashionable women. Janine was married in New York in 1964 to Michael Metz (1928-2008), who would become a prominent Wall Street strategist. They had met the prior year during a visit to New York on which Janine had accompanied the Duke and Duchess. Following her marriage, Janine continued to fulfill her responsibilities as Social Secretary to the Duchess during the Windsors’ regular visits to the United States. THE ESTATE OF MARY MAX Janine settled into the couple’s Manhattan penthouse and spent the rest of her life cultivating close friendships with many expatriate royals and aristocrats, making the rounds of society charity galas, and Doyle is honored to auction an important and rare hosted fundraisers for animal-friendly politicians generously supporting a number of organizations, including jewelry collection from the Estate of animal rights and legislators, and donated items from her the Humane Society of New York, French Heritage advocate Mary Max. Born in Buffalo, New York, personal collection to auctions benefiting animal Society, French Institute Alliance Français, American With the Duke and Duchess of Windsor the former Mary Balkin (1966-2019) was educated welfare organizations. She co-founded Humane Foundation of Savoy Orders, and the American Hospital at Nardin Academy and Boston College. USA-PAC, a national political action committee of Paris. that promotes animal rights legislators, and Inspired by a conversation with actress Isabella helped launch Voters for Animal Rights in Janine and the Duchess maintained their close friendship Rosellini about factory farming, Mary dedicated New York State. during the years that followed, with regular visits between herself to the animal rights movement. She was a New York and Paris. The last visit, a final farewell, took place in 1986 at the Windsors’ villa in the Bois de Boulogne, member of the Board of Directors of the Humane Jewelry from the Estate of Mary Max offers over on the day the Duchess died. Society of the United States; a founding member 70 lots and features a curated selection of exquisite of the Board of New York Coalition for Healthy designs by Belperron, Mellerio, Hemmerle, Jewelry from the Estate of Janine Metz features a selection School Food, which introduces plant-based foods Lalique, Grima, George L’Enfant, David Webb, of high carat weight diamond and sapphire rings, a group of and nutrition education in schools; and a member Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. colorful Indian jewelry and other dazzling creations from the of the advisory council of Farm Sanctuary, which collection of a remarkable and fascinating woman. provides shelter and advocacy for farmed animals. Property from the Estate of Mary Max In her Air France uniform She developed email campaigns urging readers comprises lots 394 thru 467. Property from the Estate of Janine Metz comprises 32 lots to lobby elected officials on animal rights bills, offered throughout the December 13 auction. Additional jewelry, historical ephemera and other property from the Estate will be offered in 2020. With her husband Michael Metz 6 6 2 1 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pair of Gold and Diamond Flower Earclips Gold Necklace, Cartier, France Pair of Gold, Platinum and Diamond Hoop Pair of Gold and Mabé Pearl Earclips, Gold and Diamond Figaro Link Chain Gold Wristwatch, Boucheron 14 kt., centering a cluster of 12 round 18 kt., composed of oval openwork links Earrings, Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. Necklace, Chaumet, Paris 18 kt., quartz, centering a square waffle-textured diamonds, encircled by petals pavé-set with designed as curved ribbons of stylized 18 kt., the polished hoops inset with 18 kt., centering 2 mabé pearls ap. 15.5 mm., 18 kt., composed of elongated oval curb dial, within a waffle-textured bezel, round diamonds, totaling ap. 2.20 cts., croissant motif, signed Cartier, no. 767136, 8 platinum-set round diamonds ap. .35 ct., encircled by ribbed petals, signed Tiffany & Co., links edged by round diamonds ap. .90 ct., dia. ap. 23 x 23 mm., completed by a five ap. 8 dwts. with maker’s mark and French assay mark, signed Tiffany & Co., ap. 11.4 dwts. ap. 17.4 dwts. joined by triplets of cushion-shaped curb row polished and waffle-textured bar link C ap. 34.5 dwts. Length 34.5 dwts. C C links, signed Chaumet, Paris, no. 1649, bracelet, completed by a double deployant $800-1,200 C $1,200-1,800 $1,000-1,500 with maker’s mark and French assay marks, clasp, dial, movement, case and clasp $3,500-4,500 ap. 107.3 dwts. Length 32 1/4 inches. signed Boucheron, Swiss movement, C Peter J. & Mary Ann Ruda Brickfield case no. AJ414671, clasp no. AJ411767, Revocable Living Trust ap. 63.7 dwts. gross. Length 6 inches. $5,000-7,000 C Property of a New York City Collector $2,500-3,500 8 DOYLE • DECEMBER 13, 2019 • NEW YORK VIEW THE FULLY ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE AND BID ONLINE AT DOYLE.COM 9 9 11 12 7 8 10 7 8 9 10 11 12 Gold, Tumbled and Carved Emerald Bead Tricolor Gold and Diamond Gold and Diamond ‘Trinity’ Bangle Bracelet, Pair of Gold Fringe Earclips, Tiffany & Co. Gold and Diamond Bamboo Necklace, Gold and Diamond Bombé Ring and Diamond Pendant Chain Necklace, Dragonfly Brooches Cartier, France 18 kt., designed as three tapered layers of Cartier, France The tapered band centering 48 round Tambetti 18 kt. yellow, rose and white gold, the larger 18 kt., the three slender interlocking bangles wire fringe, signed Tiffany & Co., ap. 18.7 dwts. 18 kt., the textured bamboo links accented diamonds ap. 2.35 cts., within ribbed gold, 18 kt., the oval link chain spaced by and smaller dragonflies pavé-set with round continuously set with round diamonds C by five links pavé-set with round diamonds ap. 10 dwts. Size 6 3/4. 8 graduated tumbled emerald beads, diamonds ap. 6.20 cts., ap. 8.8 dwts. ap. 8.85 cts., signed Cartier, no. 646839, $800-1,200 ap. 3.85 cts., signed Cartier, no. 703499, C suspending one drop-shaped and 2 oval C with maker’s marks and French assay marks, with maker’s mark and French assay mark, $1,200-1,800 carved emeralds, spaced by 8 collet-set $1,000-1,500 ap. 33.5 dwts. Inner circle 7 1/2 inches. ap. 44.6 dwts. Length 13 3/4 inches. round diamonds, with diamond-set cap, C C totaling approximately 1.40 cts., signed $15,000-20,000 $7,000-9,000 Tambetti. Length 18 1/8 inches. C $1,500-2,000 10 DOYLE • DECEMBER 13, 2019 • NEW YORK VIEW THE FULLY ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE AND BID ONLINE AT DOYLE.COM 11 14 13 15 16 17 13 14 15 16 17 Gold, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond Pair of Gold, South Sea Cultured Braided Green Onyx Bead, Gold and Gold, Cultured Pearl, Emerald and Gold, Emerald and Diamond Ring Jabot, Bulgari Pearl and Diamond Earclips Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Diamond Necklace 18 kt., centering one emerald-cut emerald 18 kt., centering one oval sapphire 18 kt., centering 2 pearls ap. 13.6 and 13.8 mm., France The tapered fancy-shaped links set with round ap. 3.24 cts., flanked by 2 trilliant-cut diamonds ap. 1.55 cts., framed by 10 round and encircled by 24 collet-set round diamonds 18 kt., the braided gold links pavé-set with diamonds ap.