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1 Multiple faces of the same preservation of the uniqueness of its language and traditions that have remained intact over the island, different aspects centuries. of a single country. Sardinia Sardinia is like a play, offering a new scenario Geography. every time the curtain rises: ancient traditions and craftsmanship, wild and unspoiled nature, The largest footprint in the “Life in Sardinia is probably the best a man indescribable landscapes and beaches. However, Mediterranean. there is a common thread that leads you through this series of shapes and colours: the personality Sardinia is an island located in the middle of can hope for: twenty-four thousand miles of of an ancient land and its people. the ; 20 090 km2 make it the second largest in size. The island’s diamond shape and resemblance with a large footprint inspired forests, countryside and coastlines, the Greeks to call it ‘Hyknusa’ or ‘Ichnussa’ surrounded by a miraculous sea, are what (Ιχνουσσα). The Romans renamed it ‘Sardinae’, hence the present name, in reference to the legendary I would recommend God Sardus, son of Hercules, who is said to have led a group of Lebanese onto the island. give us as Paradise.” The island’s 64 000 acres of forest plunge into a good 1 850 km of coastline, making Sardinia the region with the largest coastal development in . Sardinia has no high mountains due to the (Fabrizio De André) erosion caused by wind and rain. It is mainly hilly and characterized by plateaus as well as groups of smaller hills.

The highest massif is the del , whose peak is (1 In fact, Sardinia stands for traditions that are 834 m). The longest river in Sardinia is the Tirso, strongly rooted in its people. Active defence which joins into the Gulf of , meanwhile of the territory against external invasions and the only navigable river is river Temo, that runs ancient, continuous fighting against the people through the romantic town of . who tried to conquer the island have – over the centuries – contributed to the hardness of the people’s personality. The main attractions of the island are

undoubtedly its beautiful beaches and the crystal clear sea, known to be one of the cleanest in the Mediterranean. However, the numerous historical sites, such as the archaeological sites of the early prehistoric times and the nuragic villages, should not be ignored, as they represent the importance of the geographical and strategic position of Sardinia in the Mediterranean.

Many consider Sardinia to be the ‘least Italian’ region of all. In fact, its geographic isolation has led to the development of certain animal and plant species (such as the Sardinian mouflon or the white donkey from Asinara), along with the

2 3 The closure of rivers in some places in the remained virtually isolated for 10 000-8 000 years. past has led to the formation of artificial lakes, Among the first historical witnesses of the region including Lago Omodeo and Lago Coghinas. are the 7 000 ‘nuraghi’, scattered throughout the entire island. Nuraghic villages had been built from Sardinia has less than 1.7 million inhabitants. large blocks of very imposing stone in order to 17% of the land is used for agriculture and sheep secure the population from attacks by hostile tribes. farming, a percentage which is almost double of The nuraghi are the most impressive megalithic the European average. Pastoralism and mining, monuments in Europe. however, narrate the history of Sardinia and in more recent times, factories for the production Nuragic people worshiped the Mother Goddess, of chemicals, petroleum and textiles have started professed the water cult (made evident by the to develop. Highly important for the island’s multiple holy wells erected near their settlements) economy are also the production and processing and were highly dedicated to the cult of the dead. of grain, wine and olive oil. The prehistoric tombs carved into the rock are called ‘’, literally meaning ‘houses of An ancient history. the fairies’, and were adorned with bronze figures and statuettes. Today they are the par excellence Between myths and legends. symbol of Sardinia. Sardinia is that old, its formation seems to date Nonetheless it is as important to mention the back to 600 million years ago. From a geological market towns of the Phoenician-Punic-Roman era, point of view it is one of the most ancient lands in the Paleo-Christian churches, the riches of the Europe, with a seismic risk of zero. medieval times and the obvious remnants of the Spanish domination found across Sardinia. Difficult to reach due to its position, the island

Nuraghe

4 5 Poetto Beach City of the Sun and capital of the island, cultural and political centre, international port, home to the university and the Archbishop, ancient capital of the … Cagliari is all this, and much more.

he city is located in the Golfo degli Angeli beaches of the island. symbolizes this T(Gulf of the Angels), whose arms encircle it area, which remains etched in the memory for and – according to a legend – protect its waters. its fine, white, sandy beaches and the absolute Cagliari is a city of many faces and a million facets. transparency of its waters, seemingly painted in Developed around its castle in the heart of the shades of turquoise. Walking along the narrow old town, the city holds narrow alleys and massive country roads that connect towns to coves and walls bear witness to its ancient magnificence. beaches gives way to the Mediterranean shrubs Affectionately called ‘Casteddu’ (meaning ‘Castle’ and virgin landscapes, while the stunning coastal in the ), Cagliari maintains the paths are worth a vacation on its own. charm of its history.

During the winter months an introspective town, South West Coast: Pula during summer an explosive city, daily this city is Leaving Cagliari in the other direction, along the being built and enriched through the sunshine and coast of Pula and on the road that separates the the respect of its inhabitants. sea from the pond of Santa Gilla, one reaches the Cagliari is a city that breathes, a city that lives. territory loved by the pink flamingos (along the Molentargius pond). Forth the SS 195, through South East Coast: Villasimius different locations from and Nora to Chia, one will pass through to those When moving towards the east coast, from places that relentlessly contend for the price of Cagliari, the horizons open to those beaches the most beautiful beach. that are considered amongst the most beautiful

6 7 Nearby The of Trattoria Lilliccu Cagliari bit by bit Called ‘Su Nuraxi’ (eng. ‘The Nuraghe’), the Mediterranean cuisine, fish name indicates that this is the par excellence Via Sardegna 78, Cagliari -Tel. +39.070652970 example of a nuraghe: located in the territory Out and about of Barumini, a visit offers a real and true plunge Ristorante Luigi Pomata into the past, the roots of the culture and the Revisited typical cuisine in the city history of the island. Viale Regina Margherita 18, Cagliari The Bastion Via Garibaldi and ends in the eponymous piazza. Tel. +39.070672058 Being the imposing edifice that overlooks the Other major streets: Via Dante, Via Paoli, Via Events city, the Bastion embodies a reference point, a . L’Archibugio meeting place for the people of Cagliari and a Medieval restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine must-see for every traveller. Climbing to the Castello – the Castle District The Holy Week in Cagliari Via Vincenzo Sulis, Cagliari -Tel. +39.070665877 top and laying eyes on the roofs of the houses, Nobody can be exempt from visiting the The Holy Week in Cagliari is an event that the boats moored at the harbour, the skyline Castello district, the heart of Cagliari and the should not be missed: the processions and Ristorante Basilio that rests on the sea and the growing city is largest of the four historic districts that have representations of the passion, death and Typical cuisine something that never becomes dull. written the history of the city. Do not miss out resurrection of Christ attract believers and Via Sebastiano Satta 112/A, Cagliari on the Cathedral and the Viceregio Palace. curious people from every corner of Sardinia, Tel. +39.070480330 drawn to the city purely by the grandeur of the The Botanical Garden celebration. L’Oca Bianca The botanical garden contains important Roman Pizzeria and restaurant remains and is ideal for nature lovers and all Sant’Efisio Via Napoli 38, 09124 Cagliari those wishing to get some fresh air into their It is the feast of the patron saint of the city, but Tel. +39.070664339 lungs at one of the city’s best green spaces. also the most important religious event of the island and one of the oldest processions in Italy. Antico Caffè dal 1855 Taking place on May 1st, Sant’Efisio involves all Monte Urpinu Park Breakfast, brunch, appetitive and cocktail bar folks of the island. The park offers several spaces for sports and Piazza Costituzione 10/11, Cagliari recreational activities. However, it is primarily a Tel. +39.070658206 refuge in which one can relax and to admire the Marina ‘Cafè Noir’ city from above. The event occurs at the end of summer in Da Marino al Saint Remy The Poetto Marina, the multi-ethnic district of Cagliari. It is Revisited traditional cuisine The city’s own beach comprises 8 km of sandy the festival of literature, cinema, theatre, music shores and shallow and clear waters. It is Marina District Via Torino 16, Cagliari -Tel. +39.070657377 The eye looking to the outside world: Marina and visual arts; taking place on the streets and connected to the city center through several piazzas, in various venues and craft shops all bus lines and its seafront and beaches are usually is the multi-ethnic district of Cagliari in which Ristorante Semplicemente traditional trattorias are found alongside Arabian throughout the neighbourhood. filled with sportspeople, romanticists, families The event is a unique open-air art workshop Mediterranean, vegetarian and gluten-free and sunbathers. restaurants and the scents of the island mix with cuisine spicy fragrances of distant worlds, now seemingly and an opportunity for encounter and exchange among national and international artists. Viale Merello 60, Cagliari -Tel. +39.070290989 The Citadel of Museums ever so close. Undoubtedly, the city’s museums complex (containing the Archaeological Museum, the Wax Where to eat Museum, the Siamese Art Museum, the National Staying overnight Art Gallery) is found at the Castle, the historical Sa Domu Sarda centre of Cagliari. Typical cuisine La Villa del Mare BOOK Via 51, Cagliari - Tel. +39. 070653400 Shopping Cagliari’s main shopping streets are within reach Dal Corsaro for tourists: from the central Via Roma one can Typical regional and national cuisine easily arrive at Via Manno – full of little shops Regina Margherita 28, Cagliari and boutiques. Via Manno then continues into Tel. +39.070664318

8 9 Sant’Efisio

10 11 South West Tuerredda Coast

outh-west of the capital of Sardinia, precisely 35 km away from Cagliari, is where a series of small towns, famous across the entire Sisland for the beauty of the sea and their beaches, begins. Pleasant and discreet, these places come alive during the hot summers of the island, offering a wide choice of restaurants and ice cream parlours, sports activities for the whole family and a vivid life. This stretch of the coastline includes the towns of Pula, Domus de Maria and Teulada together with their surrounding villages and is characterized by beautiful and ancient towers of the seventeenth century, symbol of the Spanish domination and coastal protection against possible external invasions. The centre of Pula holds an archaeological museum that houses the ancient artefacts of the antique city of Nora. Just before Nora one can find the Church of St. Efisio, where the saint is carried to during the procession of his great celebration on May 1st. The area north of Pula is part of the largest forest of Sardinia which develops in the areas around Cagliari and the .

12 13 Events The South West The Night of the Poets Where to eat The important literature review takes place during the summer, at the Roman Amphitheater Su Furriadroxu in Nora. On stage, a variety of poetry readings, Typical Campidanese Restaurant classical music concerts and theatrical Via XXIV Maggio | S’arruga de su Soddu11, Pula bit by bit performances occur. Coast Tel. +39.0709246148

Su Guventeddu Out and about Typical Sardinian Restaurant, fish and meat Nora The Is Zuddas Grottos Loc. Su Guventeddu - Baia di Nora, Pula Tel. +39.0709209092 Charming little town and important Located in , these grottos are the oldest archaeological site: Nora. It is the oldest ever found. They are a spectacular example of Phoenician city of Sardinia; the ‘Nora Stone’ has crystal concretions dating back to 600 million Mirage been found here – the oldest written document years and are of about 500 meters in size. Pizzeria, fish restaurant, vegetarian cuisine of the Western history. Viale Chia 10 | Loc. Chia, Domus de Maria Tel. Porto Pino +39.0709230249 Porto Pino is known for its dunes and further characterized by a spectacular pink sand beach and emerald sea. It is framed by small lagoons The Feast of the Boar Staying overnight with flamingos, pine trees and ancient juniper An important festival of Domus de Maria is the bushes. ‘Feast Of The Boar’, which involves the entire town. You will be able to taste the excellent Chia Laguna Resort BOOK game, enjoy the hospitality of the locals and Mare e Pineta BOOK The only town on the island of S. Pietro, beautiful music performances. Forte Village Resort BOOK is an attractive village of the Archipelago of Sulcis, where Ligurian is spoken. Visit by car, Matrimonio Mauritano Hotel Aquadulci BOOK together with the island of S. Antioco, and In August, the town of Santadi illustrates a explore hidden corners and coves. typical Sardinian wedding with its traditional Is Molas Golf Club rites, celebrated according to the canons of the Seat of the Italian Golf Opens, Is Molas Golf Roman Catholic Church. The celebration takes Club had been developed and designed by place on the central square. world-renowned architects. It consists of a total of 9 538 meters and offers its players 27 holes. Blues It is celebrating its 18th anniversary and Chia constitutes one of the most important music Part of the Domus de Maria coastal stretch, the events in Sardinia; the first one dedicated to area is famous for its beautiful white sand dunes the blues genre. and lagoons where flamingos live and nest.

Tuerredda Tuerredda is considered one of the most beautiful beaches of Sardinia. It lies beyond the coastline of Chia and is set in a natural The Dunes of Piscinas are one of the few and unspoiled environment, offering unique deserts in Europe. Their peaks reach a height of spectacles of fine white sand and crystal seas. about 100 meters, slowly descending towards the sea along a vast coastline of about seven kilometres. They are the undoubted symbol of the splendour of Costa Verde.

14 15 Piscinas

16 17 South East Coast ilderness in contrast with the sweet blue of the sea are awaiting you all along the south east coast of Sardinia. WVillasimius is the name of the town, the undisputed symbol of this coastal stretch which comes alive during the long island summers. Among the major centres that stand out, each characterized by captive beaches, coves and their historic centres, are and Costa Rei. The fame of the south east coast was born spontaneously, thanks to those individuals who fell in love with its white beaches during the 70s. Today, the area is able to satisfy all needs while retaining the charm of an attractive seaside village. Reachable from Cagliari in about 50 km along the coastal road, the south east coast is a paradise for enjoyment and life: you will find beautiful landscapes, colour gradients and remarkable transparency of the water to leave you breathless, while rugged coves and wild vegetation proudly surround and protect every little corner of the zone.

TuerreddaVillasimius

18 19 Events The Feast of Our Lady of the The South East Shipwrecked Where to eat ‘Festa di Nostra Signoa die Naufraghi’ is being celebrated yearly in July, since the year of 1979. Ristorante La Capanna The schedule of the festival includes a solemn Revised Mediterranean Cuisine Coast bit by bit mass followed by a procession from the church Via delle Palme (lungomare Simius), Villasimius to the port, during which the statue of the Tel. +39.3498277705 Virgin Mary is carried. A celebration of singing, Out and about dancing and wine tasting takes place at the port Su Nuraxi and, on board of large decorated boats, the Pizzeria and typical fish restaurant Punta Molentis small peninsula of Capo Carbonara, in which one statue of the saint is accompanied to ‘Isola dei Via Ichnusa 47, Costa Rei- The beach of Punta Molentis is located between will find nesting flamingos, cormorants, grebes Cavoli’ island. Tel. +39.070999020 Villasimius and Costa Rei, surrounded by rocks and moorhens, as they find plenty of food in that reach 15 meters in height and fascinating these waters. The Feast of John the Baptist Ristorante Chaplin remains of a nuraghe. The sea here is crystal- It is the feast of the patron saint of Castiadas Typical fish restaurant clear and its water’s colour ranges from shades ‘Sette Fratelli‘ Park and takes place on June 25th. For an entire Via delle Ginestre 65, Costa Rei-Muravera of emerald green to blue. Literally translated, it is the ‘Seven Brothers day different songs, dances in typical Sardinian Tel. +39.070991233 Park’: 6 190 hectares of maquis shrubland, a costumes and degustations take place, ending limpid area with numerous possibilities for hiking with a firework in the evening. and mountain biking, or simply the perfect spot Staying overnight for a pleasant picnic in the shade of the ancient The Wine Festival trees. The Wine Festival takes place at the end Garden Beach BOOK of August in Olia Speciosa, in the town of Hotel Stella Maris BOOK Via Umberto Castiadas. Try the different wines accompanied Via Umberto is the main shopping street of by a wide selection of local products! Hotel Cala Caterina BOOK Villasimius, closed to all traffic movement during Cruccuris Resort BOOK the evenings. Numerous are the souvenir shops and local products, restaurants and boutiques, Tanka Village BOOK and on a Saturday morning until 2 pm it is worth Villas Resort BOOK visiting the market that offers not only fruit, vegetables, clothing and accessories, but also the Le Dune Piscinas BOOK Porto Giunco experience of living the simple and genuine life Characterized by fine white sand with pink of a bustling seaside town. shades due to the granite erosion caused by the sea, Porto Giunco represents one of the ‘in’- beaches of Villasimius.

Cala Sinzias Cala Sinzias is protected from the wind by a verdant promontory and has been marked by the Green Schooner (Legambiente environmental association) for its clear and pristine waters. The beach of Cala Sinzias is found behind a eucalyptus tree grove in the municipality of Castiadas.

The Notteri Pond Holding a water surface of 34 hectares, the Notteri pond is a protected area located in the

20 21 Sette Fratelli Park

22 23 The Central La Pelosa Beach North

he Oristanese region includes a large collection of small towns and beautiful beaches; the capital of the area is the city of TOristano. Travelling north, one will come across the lovely town of Bosa, home to the only navigable river of the entire island and a perfectly romantic setting for a couple’s holiday. Going about 50 km further up north, one will arrive in the , region of the famous city of Alghero, also known as ‘Little ’. The fortified city boasts a charming historic centre and vibrant social and cultural activities, especially during the summer season. The largest town of the area is Sassari, located about twenty minutes away from Alghero. Discovering the region of Oristano along its coast and reaching Sassari will introduce different facets, not only from the point of view of the landscape: every city, be it a seaside resort or a village hidden within the island’s inland, has its own traditional dress, maintains its own traditions and unique festivities, and above all, hands down eno- gastronomic recipes of unique and unforgettable flavours from one generation to the next.

24 25 Events The Sartiglia Where to eat The Central A unique show, a race for the medieval ring taking place between the last Sunday and Il Caminetto Tuesday of the Carnival period. Among ancient Typical regional and national cuisine rituals, traditions and fascinating characters, Cesare Battisti 8, Cabras -Tel. +39.078.3391139 bit by bit there is also the exciting ‘Race for the Star’ North followed by the ‘Pariglie’ which poses incredible Cuccumeu acrobatics on the horseback. Pizzeria and typical meat restaurant Out and about Millelire 12, Torre Grande - Oristano La discesa dei Candelieri Tel. +39.3207829929 La Pelosa Beach The village of San Salvatore ‘The Descent Of The Candlesticks’ results (, Sassari) Worth visiting if you want to immerse in a from a vow to the Virgin Mary, taking place in Al Gambero Rosso The absolute clarity of the water makes this western movie scenario: indeed, several scenes Sassari on the 14th of August every year and Typical fish restaurant beach one of the most beautiful beaches of of Western films had been filmed here and today, subsequently attracting an average of 100 000 Via Nazionale 12, Bosa -Tel. +39.0785374150 Sardinia. But the picture also offers soft white still, the atmosphere can be sensed in the air. people. The ‘Great Feast’ (Festa Grande) is sand, a perfect view of the islands in front of a dancing procession with symbolic candles Mangiaimbuto Vineria you and the green of the Mediterranean shrub Neptune’s Grotto represented by large wooden columns. Typical restaurant and enoteca behind you. A staircase built into rock overlooking the Piazza Modoleddu, Bosa -Tel. +39.785373736 sea, a unique panorama whose beauty lasts for The Barefoot-Race of Cabras the entire 656 steps of its famous ‘Escala del This festivity starts in the last week of August, Baia delle Ninfe Cabirol’, the goat’s steps…do not shy away! with exhibitions and concerts in preparation for Mediterranean cuisine The alternative would be to reach the wonderful the long-awaited barefoot-race that takes place Porto Conte 52, Alghero -Tel. +39.079942010 cave by boat, but you would miss out on half of during a week between August and September: the experience. at dawn, barefoot young men carry the statue Ristorante Al Refettorio of S. Salvatore from Cabras to a small village Local cuisine The Beach of San Giovanni of dedicated to the holy statue. The statue is then Carrero del Porxo Sinis/ brought back the following day at sunset . (Vicolo Adami) 47, Alghero Tel. +39.0799731126 This archaeological site is located on the Ardia di Santu Antinu () Sinai Peninsula. It is a true open-air museum, Ristorante Il Pavone surrounded by the beautiful waters of San Typical cuisine Giovanni di Sinis. Is Arutas (Oristano) Piazza Sulis 3, Alghero -Tel. +39.079979584 The ‘rice grain’ beach is a paradise for eyes and spirit. Visit on days of glorious sunshine, when it Ristorante Andreini reaches its maximum splendour. Typical fish restaurant and enoteca Via Arduino 45, Alghero -Tel. +39.07998209

Staying overnight It is an incredible horse race in three stages around the shrine of S. Costantino in Sedilo. Wine Resort Alghero BOOK Losa Nuraghe Thousands of, people attracted by the courage Among the approximately 7 000 Nuraghe that of the knights, the excitement of the show and Villa Mosca BOOK are scattered throughout the island, the one of the deep religious and traditional significance of Villa Las Tronas BOOK Losa is one of the best preserved. Nearby there the event, will pilgrim to watch. are some tombs of the giants. Corte Forita BOOK

26 27 The Sartiglia

28 29 The North and the Emerald Coast

nce again, it is the beaches and the emerald sea that represent the wealth of the most popular and most important must-see Oregion of Sardinia’s north; one of the most multifaceted and discussed parts of the island. The area includes the whole province of -Tempio and brings together the consortium of the Emerald Coast: 26 municipalities together with at least as much history, artistic and cultural heritage. Often considered a transit point, Olbia has however been called the “happy city” since the ancient Greeks. Olbia’s historic centre is graceful – represented by Corso Umberto and Piazza Margherita – and the heart of the city offers a wide choice of restaurants with romantic locations at the harbour. Instead sophisticated and crowded during the summer months, is Porto Cervo, the main centre of the Emerald Coast.

Tavolara Island

30 31 Events The North bit by bit Porto Cervo Wine & Food Festival Where to eat Organized by Starwood Hotels, both festivals symbolise 5-star hospitality and are dedicated Phi Beach and the Emerald Coast to the best local and national wine labels, as Restaurant and Lounge Bar well as Sardinia cuisine in a mix of tradition and Forte Cappelini, Baia Sardinia innovation. The Porto Cervo Wine Festival takes Tel. +39.3452884254 place from May 4th to May 6th, while the Food Out and about Festival is held on September 15th and 16th. Il Cormorano Regional and national cuisine Tavolara Island 4 km away from Sardinia. Italy Rally – Sardinia Via colombo 7, - Tel. +39.79470628 The granite formation rises out of the deep blue For high speed and engine lovers. Every year in sea waters and reaches a height of 600 meters Cala Brandinchi April, some stages of the World Rally Sardinia- Il Pescatore above sea level. Wild and untouched, the island Nicknamed ‘Tahiti’ due to the Caribbean colours Italy take place on tracks of the province of Restaurant, fish specialities is part of the Marine Protected Area of Tavolara of its sea, this bay is located in Capo Coda Olbia-Tempio, more precisely the suburban area Porto Cervo, and Capo Coda Cavallo, and provides nesting Cavallo. Cala Brandinchi surprises with its fine of the city of . Tel. +39.79470628 shelter for numerous species of seabirds. sand, its dunes and the lush pine forest that precedes it. Tavolara Film Festival La Scogliera - Isola Rossa The Tavolara Film Festival – July 18th to July Typical restaurant, fish specialities Placed on a little promontory there is Isola Spiaggia del Principe 22nd – provides unforgettable moments Loc. Porto Massimo, Rossa (‘The Red Island’), an area so named for The ‘Prince Beach’ was the favourite beach every year. New and small side events such as Tel. +39.3385983504 the colour of its red porphyry rocks. A little of Prince Aga Khan and, to this day, the many photography exhibitions and short films are further south, Badesi Mare presents itself: the tourists that lock here during the summer fall added regularly and many prominent guests Blu Restaurant town overlooks the long beach that joins it with in love with this marvellous place outlined by attend the unforgettable outdoor screenings of Mediterranean cuisine and fish specialities Castelsardo. Surrounded by unspoiled nature, colours like those of the Caribbean sea and the season’s best, latest film releases. Via dei Gabbiani, Badesi Mare and Isola Rossa both possess shallow waters that make it highly suitable for Tel. +39.078946030 colourful landscapes and expanses of pine trees. children. Ristorante MiraLuna Castelsardo Mediterranean Cuisine and Grill Famous for its old town, the town’s architecture Seven major islands, populating the north-east of Loc. La Conia, Cannigione - Tel. +39.789892091 is based on local granite and small houses built Sardinia, constitute the Maddalena Archipelago, on promontories overlooking the sea. the ultimate dream for those wishing to discover Castle stands on top of the town – one of the a different beach and new bay every day. It is the main tourist attractions along with the ‘Elephant agony of choice, thus we suggest the spectacular Staying overnight rock’, the extraordinary 10-meter high work of Spiaggia Rosa and Cala Corsara. nature that resembles an elephant. Bajaloglia BOOK Paradise Resort BOOK Musica sulle Bocche Even today, the ancient capital of the Petra Segreta BOOK ‘Muscia sulle Bocche’ (eng. Music at the Straits) region is still the largest producer of granite. has been founded in 2001, born as an expression Marinedda BOOK Located on , the town is almost of the intercultural dialogue between Sardinia entirely built out of this world famous, precious Abi d’Oru BOOK and Corsica. It therefore takes place in S. Teresa stone. di Gallura, the town that practically constitutes EaBianca BOOK the border between these two wonderful Villa del Golfo BOOK Santa Teresa di Gallura islands. Between August 30th and September It is the northernmost town of the island and 2nd jazz music livens up the beaches during Starwood Luxury BOOK a popular and lively holiday resort. The ferry to the entire day, while the main concerts happen Capo d’Orso BOOK Corsica can be taken from here; the island is just around the time of sunset. Valle dell’Erica BOOK

32 33 Musica sulle Bocche

34 35 Nuoro and Cala Goloritzè Ogliastra

ituated halfway up the island’s east coast, the territories of Ogliastra and Nuoro pose a natural amphitheatre where the Smountains of Gennargentu fluently slip into the , revealing very rare magnificence. Due to centuries of isolation, Ogliastra – also called ‘the island within the island’ – has managed to preserve the wild beauty of its natural heritage and the mystery of its traditions under the watchful eye of its centennial. The tourist wealth of the region is provided for by the variety of its coast, alternating between cliffs overlooking the sea, bays and hidden grottos of the Gulf of , together with long, golden beaches found further down south. However, the beauty of the sea has not banished the land’s inhabitants from the traditional agro-pastoral villages: masterfully expressed cuisine made from few, simple ingredients combines here, in an extraordinary way that brings out the very best of the Mediterranean flavours. The area is further characterized by picturesque hills that draw from the vineyards and unique rock formations; both busy hiding away archaeological sites and seemingly timeless villages with great care.

36 37 Events Nuorese bit by bit Wine Festival Where to eat For 33 years, the lively and fragrant wine festival has been taking place yearly in the Dai Monti del Gennargentu territory of Jerzu, during the first week of Typical Barbagian restaurant e Ogliastra August. Jerzu and the nearby are Via Giovanni Maria Angioy 22, Nuoro also surrounded by the ‘tacchi’, the striking Tel. +39.784402374 limestone plateaus with steep vertical walls and deep wooded valleys. Ristorante Gorroppu Out and about Typical local cuisine Loc. Silana, -Tel. +39.3471398399 Cala Luna waters that are ideal for children, a crystal clear Chosen as the location for the set of the film sea and numerous creeks. ‘Swept Away’, Cala Luna is embraced by steep Su Gologone Typical restaurant rock walls within the Gulf of Orosei between Su Gorroppu Loc. Su Gologone, - Tel. +39.0784287512 Banuei and . It is famous for its clear Su Gorroppu is one of the deepest canyons in water which reflects the green of the vegetation; Europe and an undisputed destination for nature its beach is composed of a clear sand with thick lovers and hikers. Its limestone cliffs are 14 km Ristorante Arbatasar grains. long and rise up to more than 450 m in height. Fish specialities Via Porto Frailis, Arbatax - Tel. +39. 0782651800 Cala Mariolu Su Marmuri Grotto (Ulassai) ‘Mariolu’ is Sardinian for ‘thief’. It is the nickname The concretions of the grotto of Ulassai possess Ristorante Mare e Luna that had been used by the fishermen of the area a particular shape and unique colour details, and Time in Jazz Typical Sardinian, revisited cuisine Italy’s most important jazz festival takes place during times in which a monk seal was stealing are still in formation. The grotto stretches over 1 Loc. Porto Frailis, Arbatax from August 9th to August 16th in . the freshly caught fish from the nets in close km and is viewed as one of the most impressive Tel. +39.0782667080 Developed by the Sardinian jazz artist Paolo proximity of this cove. Several grottos can be caves in Europe. found here and the cove’s beauty results in slight Fresu, several events will offer readings and Ittiturismo Arbatax concerts that take place in the centre of the crowdedness during the summer. Nuraghe complex of Serbissi Mediterranean cuisine, fish specialities town as well as the beautiful surrounding Via Lungomare | Spiaggia della cartiera, Arbatax It consists of a nuraghe complex built on the countryside. Cala Goloritzé () ‘Taccu’ of , an impressive natural rock Tel. +39.0782667063 A true Italian National Monument since 1995. formation of steep limestone walls. Cala Goloritzé can be reached by sea, or for the The special feature is the grotto located Nuorese Carnival Trattoria Pedra Longa If you visitSardinia off season, do not miss out more active visitors, via a trekking route. The below the settlement: it runs underground the Pizzeria, regional and Mediterranean cuisine on the many carnival events of Nuoro during bay consists of pure white pebbles and clear, mountains. Loc. Pedra Longa, Baunei - Tel. +39.3487349041 turquoise waters with a depth of 30 meters, which traditions, masks and dances come surrounded by beautiful, pristine nature. back to life and local sweets can be tried everywhere. Located in the heart of , Orgosolo is a Staying overnight Torre di Barì Beach (Barisardo) definite must-see due to its ‘murales’ painted on Autumn in Barbagia The unusual beach is divided into two parts by the facades of the houses and the rocks around Su Gologone BOOK a promontory on which a Spanish tower stands. the village. The paintings exhibit social, artistic Cortes Apertas After World War II, it used to be visited by and political issues. Attending the autumn events in Barbagia- Lanthia Hotel BOOK men and women separately. The peculiarity lies Cortes Apertas means discovering Sardinia ‘off Nascar Hotel BOOK in a rice-like, ochre-coloured sand on one side The Green Train season’ and hence living its most authentic and genuine aspects. The event consists of a row and pebbles painted in various shades of grey on Literally green in colour and slow-moving, this of various festivals and involves a total of 28 the other. train takes its visitors from Mancomer to Bosa, towns. A perfect opportunity to taste wines from to , from Sassari to Palau and and typical, regional products, visit historic The Lido of Orrì (Tortoli) from to Arbatax. Europe’s longest tourist houses and enjoy the hospitality of an entire It is considered one of the most beautiful and train will reveal fascinating hidden sceneries that country. cleanest beaches of Sardinia: a 16 km long are inaccessible by other means and, on request, coastline shows off fine, white sand, shallow offers a typical lunch.

38 39 Autunno in Barbagia

40 41 Food and Wine Small gourmet guide

Burrida alla Cagliaritana plain and are served with a tasty Salsicia-saffron Since the ancient times, this traditional dish has sauce, topped with a generous sprinkling of been reigning the tables of the Cagliari people. grated pecorino cheese. Mainly served as an appetizer, the fish dish pleasantly teases the palate with its deliciousness. Ravioli alla Ricotta Be it with ricotta-cheese and spinach or ricotta- cheese and chard, the ravioli are served with a tomato sauce or simply with the addition of a little saffron – regardless of the variations, the dish is always exquisite, offering the perfect contrast between sweet and savoury.

Pardulas The typical Easter pastry is filled with ricotta or fresh cheese, sometimes under the addition of raisins, and is loved in every corner of Sardinia. More precisely speaking, these little dough cakes contain ricotta/cream cheese, eggs, sugar, saffron Pane Carasau and grated orange or lemon peel; served with The typical bread is often affectionately called honey. ‘music paper’. It is native to Barbagia, yet you will find it everywhere around the island. Serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch Spaghetti con i ricci If you find yourself in Cagliari, do not miss out on of salt, warmed up int the oven or on the grill. a trip to the Poetto beach to enjoy a nice plate of spaghetti with fresh sea urchins (‘ricci’) within Malloreddus alla Campidanese the beautiful setting of the sea. When is the best (Campidano) time of the year to do this? According to an old ‘Malloreddus’, the typical Sardinian gnocchi saying, during the months containing the letter originate from the area of the fertile Campidano “r” in their name!

Pardulas

42 43 Pesce ‘a scabecciu’ are soaked in mutton broth, sprinkled with A typical fish dish of the poorer Cagliari people. cheese and herbs, and then browned in the oven. Usually, simple fish is used, washed and cleaned, Delicious! then fried and placed in a large dish, where it is finally seasoned with a sauce made out of vinegar Culurgiones and other aromas. This pasta is similar to ravioli, but filled with potatoes and mint. It is the par excellence Roasted fish, soups and seafood example of the culinary tradition of Ogliastra. A recurrent dish of the entire coastal area is the Try the version that is typical for : porcini grilled fish, mainly bream, sea bass, amberjack mushroom filling. and swordfish. Furthermore, Sardinia offers an excellent choice of recipes based on cuttlefish, octopus and different types of shellfish.

La Bottarga di Cabras Bottarga is considered the ‘Sardinian caviar’. It is the roe of the Sardinian Flathead Mullet and is one of the regional delicacies par excellence. Serve with a thin drizzle of olive oil on toasted buttered bread, or simply sprinkle on a hot plate of spaghetti.

Sa Coccoi prena (Ogliastra) The shape of Sa Coccoi prena reminds of the sun and surprises through it fabulous potato and mint stuffing, just like the culurgiones. However, the difference lies in the pastry: Sa Coccoi are in fact made out of a typical yeast bread.

Pistoccu (Ogliastra) Pisoccu is made out of semolina and flour. The crusty bread is circular or rectangular and the sheets vary in their thickness. Crema bruciata (Alghero) Easy: puff pastry, cream and a sprinkle of brown Su Casu Axedu (Ogliastra) sugar melted under a flame. Translated into This fresh cheese is produced all year long from English it means ‘Burnt cream’, a delicious sheep or goat’s milk. The uniqueness lies in its dessert reminiscent of Crème brûlée and Crema slightly sour taste and soft texture, making it a catalane. Not surprisingly, it originates from great spread for the Pistoccu bread. Alghero, a city of Catalan traditions. Su porcheddu “incarralzadu” Fainè (Alghero) (Nuoro) Fainè is a dish of Genoese origin prepared from This alternative way of cooking the very famous chickpea flour and baked in large, round pans. Su Porcheddu pig roast does indeed require Seasoned with pepper. skilful craftsmanship. Typical for the Nuoro area, “incarralzadu” demands the meat to be cooked Zuppa Gallurese in a hole in the ground, taking around three The name translates as ‘gallurese soup’, but hours until done. must not be misleading: layers of stale bread Sa Coccoi prena

44 45 Vermentino di Gallura Carignano vines of Sulcis , S. Antioco Obtained from the grapes of the eponymous and Santadi, but is also produced in areas that vines, this fresh and young white wine perfectly are heavily battered by the sea winds and are enhances the flavours of fish and vegetable therefore rich in mineral salts. dishes. The Vermentino is also cultivated in The wine has a full body and persistent flavour, other parts of Italy, but it is in the Gallura making it an ideal companion of pecorino cheese region of Sardinia where the best results were and red meat. Recommended wine makers: Terre obtained, making it gain DOCG status in 1996. Brune DOC Santadi, Barrua IGT Agricola Punica Recommended wine growers: Tondini, and Is Arenas DOC Sardus Pater and Buio Capichera IGT. DOC of Mesa.

Vernaccia di Oristano Vernaccia is the oldest Sardinian wine and is made from the amber-coloured vine with the same name. The wine is a little eclectic in its taste and therefore ideal for an aperitif, but also creates unique contrasts to the strong flavour of Bottarga-based dishes and almond containing deserts. Suggested wine makers: Antichi Gregori DOC Contini (Cabras).

Moscato di Sardegna The sparkling DOC wine is produced in the provinces of Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano and Cannonau Sassari. Its colour is a pearl-like straw yellow, the Home to Ogliastra, the Cannonau is Sardinia’s taste sweet, delicate and fruity – typical for its most prestigious and well-known wine; the variety. Served chilled it is the perfect wine for oldest vine of the island. When celebrated by sweets, desserts and dried fruits. Gabriele D’Annunzio, he described Cannonau Suggested wine makers: Moscato di Sardegna as having a ruby colour with violet hues and an DOC Piero Mancini. intense fragrance. Cannonau is the perfect match for typical Sardinian dishes and mature cheeses. Mirto Recommended wine growers: Josto Miglior Obtained from the alcoholic maceration of the D.O.C., Cannonau di Jerzu, Turriga Isola Dei berries of myrtle, Mirto is the par excellence Nuraghi I.G.T. delle cantine Argiolas. liqueur example of Sardinia. Thanks to its properties, the drink is a beloved digestive, usually served chilled, after meals. We recommend: Mirto di Sardegna Bresca Dorada.

Carignano Ruby coloured, brilliant and with a tendency towards purple, Carignano is made from the Cannonau Wine

46 47 48 49 guides

4 2 3 5 6 7 Spiaggia Rosa Spiaggia del Principe (Budelli) 9 () La Pelosa 8 (Stintino) 1 50 OLBIA - TEMPIO More information: 1110 12 13 49 SASSARI 48

Cala Brandinchi 14 (San Teodoro) S’Architt� () 15 Sardinia in 5 senses 16 Berchida NUORO 17 ()

Is Ar�tas 1819 (Cabras) 47 20 46 45 21 44 ORISTANO 43 Cala Luna Top 10 Sardinian Places 22 (Baunei/Dorgali) OGLIASTRA 23 Cala Goloritzé (Baunei) Cala Domestica 24 (Bugger��)

4 2 3 5 6 7 Spiaggia Rosa Spiaggia del Principe (Budelli) 9 (Arzachena) La Pelosa 8 (Stintino) 1 50 OLBIA - TEMPIO 1110 12 13 49 SASSARI 42 48 Cala Brandinchi 14 (San Teodoro) S’Architt� (Cuglieri) 15 16 Berchida NUORO 17 (Siniscola)

Is Ar�tas 1819 (Cabras) 47 20 46 45 21 41 ORISTANO 44 43 Cala Luna 22 (Baunei/Dorgali) OGLIASTRA 23 Cala Goloritzé (Baunei) Cala Domestica 24 (Bugger��)

42 Por�o Pino 41 Por�o Pino (Sant'Anna Resi)

CAGLIARI 25 40 Su Giudeu Scoglio di Peppino 39 31 (Castiadas) (Domus de Maria) 2726 38 30 28 CARBONIA- IGLESIAS 29

Tuer�edda 37 36 32 Por�o Giunco (Sant'Anna Resi) (Teulada) 3534 (Villasimius) 33 Best Beaches in Sardinia

Ty�e: Reachabilit�: Key characteristic: sand easy peculiarit� pebbles manageable popular beach CAGLIARI 25 cliffs difficult nat�ral paradise 40 Su Giudeu Scoglio di Peppino 39 31 (Castiadas) (Domus de Maria) 2726 38 30 28 CARBONIA- IGLESIAS 29

Tuer�edda 37 36 32 Por�o Giunco ...do not miss our next guides! (Teulada) 353433 (Villasimius)

Ty�e: Reachabilit�: Key characteristic: sand easy peculiarit� pebbles manageable popular beach cliffs difficult nat�ral paradise © charmingitaly.com 50 51