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A publication of the Community Services Center Centered on TAIPEI Vol. 19|09 JUN/JUL 2019 2019/5/27 下午10:57 June 19 e.indd 2 2019/5/27 下午10:57 CONTENTS June/July 2019 volume 19 issue 9

CSC COMMUNITY From the Editors 5 TAS: Dr. Aaron Kyle Brings Bioelectric Potential to TAS 8 Center Gallery 6 The Concord Foundation: Morning Book Club: June/July 15 Super Heroes for a Super-aged Society 10 Activity Highlights 7 TEPC Exhibition: Our Island 12 CSC Business Classified 30 World Oceans Day 2019 15

ART & CULTURE The Thermos Foundation, : Publisher Community Services Center, Taipei Hosts Luba Lukova’s Exhibition on Designing Justice 16 Editor Suzan Babcock Banksy: Art for the People 18 Co-editor Richard Saunders My Life’s Work in Progress 20 Advertising Manager Naomi Kaly Magazine Email [email protected] Enter the Dragons 23 Tel 02-2836-8134 Fax 02-2835-2530 OUTLOOK Community Services Center Editorial Panel Siew Kang, Fred Voigtmann Sky Lanterns: Wreckage or Culture? 24

Printed by Farn Mei Printing Co., Ltd. 1F, No. 102, Hou Kang Street, Shilin TRAVEL District, Taipei Tel: 02-2882-6748 Fax: 02-2882-6749 Xiao 26 E-mail: [email protected] Basalt Formations 29

Centered on Taipei is a publication of the Community Services Center, 25, Lane 290, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 6, Tianmu, Taipei, Taiwan Tel: 02-2836-8134 fax: 02-2835-2530 e-mail: [email protected] Correspondence may be sent to the editor at coteditor@ communitycenter.org.tw. Freelance writers, photographers and illustrators are welcome to contact the editor to discuss editorial and graphic assignments. Your talent will find a home with us!

Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without the written consent of the copyright owner.

COT is printed on FSC certified 100% post-consumer recycled fiber. The paper is certified in accordance with the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council which promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world's forests. https://ic.fsc.org/

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June 2019_p3-end.indd 3 2019/5/28 下午3:22 Crown’s service offerings include: Everyone needs • International & Domestic Shipments • Transit Protection to know why... • Pet & Car Transfers • Immigration & Legalization We’ll help your whole family • Home Search • School Search prepare for the big adventure. • Settling-in Services

Tel: +886 2 2719 2618 [email protected]

Go knowing www.crownrelo.com/taiwan

CR ad Euroview AprMay.indd 1 22/3/2016 3:40:25 PM

across from the ShiDong Elementary School, (pencil)

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June 2019_p3-end.indd 4 2019/5/27 下午11:44 COVER IMAGE: Heping by Craig Ferguson FROM Please send email submissions, comments, and feedback to [email protected]. For more information, please go to our THE website at www.communitycenter.org.tw EDITORS

Summer time in Taipei and other parts of Taiwan is a perfect COT TEAM time to be outdoors, attending cultural events and enjoying the multitude of national and local celebrations. This is a time for community building and sharing. One summer highlight is Taiwan’s traditional island-wide Dragon Boat Festival, and this year’s popular activities fall on the weekend of June 7th. Be sure to check out a favorite river viewing site in Suzan Babcock Richard Saunders Naomi Kaly KC Editor Co-editor Advertising Manager Graphic Designer advance and get there early on the day of the races to watch all the coteditor@ [email protected] naomi@communitycenter. graphicdesigntaipei. communitycenter.org.tw org.tw weebly.com colorful dragon boats racing up and down the river. There is something fascinating about the mighty dragon, as Jim Feature Writers Klar observes in his article Enter the Dragons. In fact, the Grand Hotel is supposed to have 250,000 dragon figures throughout its premises. Taiwan continues to host renowned artists. Through July 7th, the Thermos Foundation, Taiwan is hosting the exhibition, Designing Luca De Cadilhac Jaya Hiranandani Elliott Hodgkin Jim Klar Justice by a young Bulgarian graphic artist designer, Luba Lukova, who is based in NYC. For this exhibition, Luba has selected fifty poster pieces focusing on issues of humanity, economy, education, gender and war. We went to a pre-viewing event with a group of women judges and everyone agreed that this is a “must-see” Elizabeth Lam Richard Saunders exhibition. WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTORS As our environment becomes more of a unifying concern for Serena Chang David Lloyd people of Taiwan, local volunteers and organizations are trying to JJ Chen Lu Furne shed light on the ramifications of some cultural activities. Mandy Chen Luba Lukova Luca De Cadilhac Red Room Elizabeth Lam shares her experience and thoughts of watching sky Kenneth Dickson Joseph Reilly lanterns soar high into the sky only to land and become a potential Craig Ferguson Richard Saunders Jaya Hiranandani Rosemary Susa threat to wildlife and the environment. Elliott Hodgkin TAS The Red Room is celebrating World Oceans Day, on June 8th. Go Jing-Shung Hsu TEPC check out how our families and friends can make a positive impact Jim Klar Thermos Foundation, Taiwan Lindsey Kundel Grace Ting upon the growing pods of plastic that are being washed-up, on our Elizabeth Lam Timo Volz shores, daily.

Pick COT up at: We hope that you will enjoy our double summer issue and look Uptown: forward to seeing you either at some of the events, or at the Center Community Services Center, No. 25, Lane 290, Sec. 6, for a cup of coffee and a chat. Zhongshan North Rd. Sprout – No. 33, Sec. 7, Zhongshan North Rd. George Pai’s Beauty – No. 14, Tienmu East Rd. Downtown: Ooh Cha Cha – 207, Sec.2, Nanchang Rd. Sue and Richard

Accountant Monica Cheng COMMUNITY SERVICES CENTER Programs Manager Rosemary Susa Programs Assistant Bunny Pacheco Coffee Mornings Coordinator John Imbrogulio The Community Services Center (CSC) is a non-profit foundation. CSC provides Communications Morgan Loosli outreach and early intervention through counseling, cross-cultural education and Events Coordinator Jane Ogge-Cowan life skills programs to meet the needs of the international community in Taipei. Teacher Gloria Gwo CSC offers the opportunity to learn, volunteer, teach and meet others. Check out Samson Debele our website www.communitycenter.org.tw and drop by The Center to chat with us Systems Manager about our programs. You can also email us at [email protected].

Volunteers Miyuki Boice, Riley Carbonneau, Judith Chou, Director Adam McMillan John Imbrogulio, Leslie McFarlane, John McQuade Sofia Vintimila Office Manager Grace Ting Benefactors Bai Win Antiques Counselors I-wen Chan, Katherine Chang, Hui-shiang Chao, European Chamber of Commerce Jung Chin, Chiao-Feng Chung, Cerita Hsu, Carol Lee, Grand Hyatt Taipei Miranda Lin, Emilie Ma, Kuang-Shan Wan Premier Sponsors Concordia Consulting Consultants Wendy Evans and Michael Mullahy ICRT San Fu Global Counseling Admin. Joanne Chua

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June 2019_p3-end.indd 5 2019/5/28 下午3:24 CSC A percentage of all proceeds of items sold at the Gallery will go to the Center. Please remember that by displaying your items or shopping at the Gallery, you will be helping the Center to continue to provide valuable services to the international community. Gallery@CENTER

KRISTI THORNBURY'S PAINTINGS Kristi Thornbury has been a professional art teacher for 14 years. Originally from New Brunswick, Canada, she taught Visual Arts in Toronto, Shanghai, then Taipei where she founded Yili Arts. Kristi draws inspiration from the natural environment and uses what she refers to as the five senses observation practice to imprint to memory and later recall the “visual resonance” of a place. 6/1 Friday | WELLNESS Kristi's watercolor painting of Taiwan depicts the lush greenery, crystal- An Introduction to Raja Yoga Meditation 4:00 PM - 5:30 PM blue water and marks the counties around the island. Throughout June 6/15 Saturday and July, 20% from sales of the Taiwan print and greeting cards will be SPOKEN WORD donated to the Community Services Center. Stage Time & Wine For more information about Yili Arts and its Art Parties, visit www. 7:30 PM - 10:00 PM facebook.com/yiliarts or email [email protected] VISUAL DIALOGUES ART EXHIBITION Power of Women 6/16 Sunday | WELLNESS Body & Soul: Dance on Singing Bowls' Harmonics 4:30 PM - 6:00 PM 6/22 Saturday | PERFORMANCE ARTS Formosa Improv Group Performance 7:30 PM - 10:00 PM 6/23 Sunday STUDIOS & WORKSHOPS Trash 2 Treasure- Beeswax Wraps 1:00 PM - 3:00 PM MULTIMEDIA Filmmaker Night TOM ROOK'S 5:30 PM - 9:30 PM TAIWAN PHOTOS 6/28 Friday | MUSIC Tom Rook's detailed maps and drawings will be on display through Kind of Red XXVII Social Music September at the Center. Tom enjoys exploring and capturing Taiwan's 7:30 PM - 10:00 PM urban landscape in great detail, for they act as a personal journal, 7/14 Sunday | STUDIOS & WORKSHOPS From Trash to Treasure : Repurposing Old offering a means for discovery about a place and a way of recording Fabric into Modern Art changes in cities. 1:00 PM - 3:00 PM 7/16, 7/17, 7/18, 7/19 Tues-Friday STUDIOS & WORKSHOPS Children's Summer Theater and Arts Camp 9:30 AM - 5:00 PM 7/20 Saturday | FAMILY FRIENDLY Stage Time & Juice Family Open Mic 2:30 PM - 4:30 PM 7/26 Friday | MUSIC Kind of Red XXVIII Social Music 7:30 PM - 10:00 PM HAUTE COUTURE HANDBAGS BY EMMY LE SAOÛT AND L'ATELIER DES BETISES Programs are subject to change. A friendship between two passionate French women has resulted in the Please check online for updates. www. redroomtaipei.com/events or Facebook: creation of these handbags which reinterpret Taiwanese traditions with a redroomtaipei. touch of French sophistication. Each piece is handcrafted by the hands of a seasoned haute couture seamstress.

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June 2019_p3-end.indd 6 2019/5/27 下午11:44 CSC JUNE/JULY ACTIVITY HIGHLIGHTS Summer Chinese Conversation Summer Chinese: An Mondays & Wednesdays, May Introduction to Language and 20 - June 12; 10 am - 11:30 am Culture THE CENTER Instructor: Gloria Gwo Mondays & Wednesdays, July 8 $NT3,600 - July 31; 10 am - 11:30 am NEEDS YOU! This short, interactive course is Instructor: Gloria Gwo Do you have a skill or talent that you for those who are still in Taipei $3600 would like to share? Or have you found after the official Center programs This course is ideal for anyone have ended. In this class you will arriving during the summer who some great places around Taipei that have a chance, no matter what would like to begin learning you would like to take others to see? your level, to use your spoken the basics of spoken Chinese as Then why not consider teaching a skills in both well as Taiwanese culture and course or leading a tour for the Center the classroom and out and about customs. This fun, interactive in Tianmu. We will visit local mini-session doesn't replace our in Fall 2019? If you are interested, businesses, cafés and restaurants Survival I class, but will give you or would like more information, where you will put into practice a head start in learning the local please contact Rosemary at ce@ what you have learned over this language. communitycenter.org.tw. past year. All are welcome!

We are looking for volunteers to help with the annual Auction Community Services Center dinner and to contribute to our popular Silent Auction Baskets. Auction If you like planning, promoting, decorating or sponsoring events and have any time to help, we would love to hear from you. Save the date - 25 October Please contact the events team ([email protected]) to get involved.

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June 2019_p3-end.indd 7 2019/5/27 下午11:44 COMMUNITY Dr. Aaron Kyle Brings Bioelectric Potential to TAS

TEXT: LINDSEY KUNDEL, COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER IMAGES: TAS

he 2019 Joanna Nichols Medicine in Indianapolis, which identifying that when something is Visiting Scholar, Dr. Aaron then led to his current position as a going wrong, why it is going wrong. Kyle, auspiciously spent the professor at Columbia University, which While the work certainly challenged month of January at TAS he’s held for nine years. During his time the students, they also had a good Tduring the unveiling and opening of the at Columbia he expanded the senior time. “Working with Dr. Kyle was a very new Solomon Wong Tech Cube facility. design class, traveled to Uganda to interesting experience,” says Raji R. Dr. Kyle serves as Senior Lecturer provide device solutions for neonatal ‘22, who had no previous experience in the Department of Biomedical care needs, created a new course in micro-controller electronics. “He Engineering at Columbia University, in bioinstrumentation that became was a very cool guy and an awesome which has grown to incorporate part of the curriculum, and initiated teacher.” Eli K. ’22, also described Dr. bioinstrumentation, biomechanics, the Hk Maker Lab summer program Kyle warmly. “He will help you with and tissue engineering. Dr. Kyle that propagates what he learned as a anything from the smallest circuit to the was named a recipient of Columbia younger man to underrepresented and most complicated equations with the University's Presidential Award for underprivileged high school students in same enthusiasm and attention.” Outstanding Teaching at both the New York City. Bianca T. ’19, came into Dr. Kyle’s undergraduate and graduate levels for While at TAS, Dr. Kyle assisted classes with more exposure to electrical his lasting influence on the intellectual with the design process and taught engineering through prior TAS Robotics development of Columbia students. students about basic instrumentation, classes and electrical engineering Dr. Kyle’s focus was clear from the a combination of basic electrical summer programs for college credit. start. “I’ve known I wanted to be an circuit theory with passive elements She says that taking the course with engineer since the third grade. I was like resistors and capacitors, electrical Dr. Kyle, “taught me how to think fascinated by electricity growing up, filtering, and how to use these things about what I want my engineering and as I got a little bit older I learned to pick up biological signals. He shared, projects to accomplish. Instead of just more about the melding of biological “Since I’ve been at TAS I’ve been building up a circuit for the sake of Congratulations to the concepts with engineering, specifically working primarily with the Robotic completing the circuit, I could design with bioelectricity.” He pursued his Engineering group in the Tech Cube, a circuit that did something such as undergraduate education at Kettering which is a fantastic building in which measure temperatures, sense muscle University and graduate studies at to work. It’s pretty exciting when I get contractions, or chest expansions Class of 2019! Purdue University, focusing his research on campus each day to look up and see during breathing.” on guidance systems for intravascular this shimmering edifice. It’s one part The admiration definitely flowed catheters. At Purdue, Dr. Kyle had more I’ve really enjoyed.” both ways for Dr. Kyle. “The students opportunities to teach than expected, His classes became a larger endeavor here have been fantastic. I’m blown realizing that “I loved being in the with integration from the extended away by how respectful, interested, classroom with students” and setting science department and inclusion of engaged, and focused the students up the lab. more advanced engineering students, are...even first-year students without His post-doc followed at Indiana allowing them hands-on access and the level of technical experience Center for Vascular Biology and developing the important skill of have been willing to take on these complicated challenges. They keep at it which is exciting for me as an educator.” He chose to visit TAS as the Joanna Nichols Visiting Scholar because “this seemed like a once-in-a-lifetime chance and I should jump on it. It has been an honor to be a part of this, and I am very happy to be here.” Beyond the classroom, during a three-lecture series, “Bioelectricity: History and Applications,” Dr. Kyle shared information about how human bodies are generators and users of TAIPEI AMERICAN SCHOOL electrical energy. From the electrical www.tas.edu.tw

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powerhouses that are our brains in their thinking and use creativity Dr. Kyle’s stay at TAS represents the eighth through the tiny stapedius muscles as a pathway to develop innovative installment of the Joanna Nichols Visiting in our ears, bioelectricity plays a concepts. Failure is part of the process, Scholar program, which is the result of the “ critical role in the regulation of our and getting stuck is not a roadblock continuing, extraordinary generosity and vision ” bodies, transmission of information, but a detour. of former TAS parent Mr. Kenny Cheng. The and regeneration after injury. In this His parting advice to TAS students: program brings relevant, distinguished, and “ series of talks, he shared the history of Whatever spark you have now, stimulating figures such as Dr. Kyle to TAS each ’ bioelectric phenomena; measurement don t let anything take that away year to share singular insights and experiences of bioelectric activity with an emphasis from you. Wherever that passion with students. Past Visiting Scholars include: ” on the electrical activity of the heart; lies, let that be your bedrock. With • Dr. Jacob Soll, Professor of History and and the role of bioelectricity in wound all of his impressive professional Accounting at the University of Southern healing. accomplishments, Dr. Kyle is most California; Dr. Kyle expressed the importance of proud of having an impact on how • Dr. Nancy Steinhardt, Department Chair and a design mindset in any specialization former students think, and getting Professor of East Asian Art at the University – whether you are a dancer or them to flex their intellectual muscles. of Pennsylvania; “ a mathematician – during lunch When reflecting on TAS he said, The • Dr. Michael Littman, Professor of Mechanical assemblies for the Upper School. thing that I think is really special about and Aerospace Engineering at Princeton “ ’ Just having an appreciation for it this place is that you ve got these great University; ’ even if you don t go into sciences and facilities in support of great students. • Dr. David Spergel, Professor of Astrophysical mathematics, having a baseline of I suspect that the people here would Sciences at Princeton University; technological literacy is important and be doing great stuff wherever they • Dr. Benjamin Elman, Professor of East Asian ” should be maintained and fostered. went to school, but the fact that Studies Department at Princeton University; He believes that when you recognize there is so much capacity here to do • Dr. Arthur Benjamin, Professor of and define a problem you can then these sorts of things, not even just Mathematics at Harvey Mudd University; and work to understand the needs of the engineering...that is a testament • Mike Chinoy, Senior Fellow of the USC U.S.- actual people and develop solutions. to a different caliber and quality of China Institute. He advised students to stay flexible students.”

Congratulations to the Class of 2019!

TAIPEI AMERICAN SCHOOL www.tas.edu.tw

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Concord Foundation: Super Heroes for a Super-aged Society

TEXT & IMAGES: ELLIOTT HODGKIN

n 2001, the Concord Foundation was founded in by local businessman Brandon Lin (林光清), 61. Inspired by his father’s unwavering devotion to the community, Lin wanted to extend a hand to the growing Ielderly population. Relying mainly on volunteers, the foundation prepares and delivers lunchboxes to two hundred elderly citizens across four townships in the county. Those who benefit often have no families and have lost the physical and mental In Taiwan today, one in seven people is strength to care for themselves. Eighteen years on, the staff a senior citizen. By 2025, the country and volunteers at Concord are still working to Lin’s original will be in a “super-aged” era where philosophy: ignite yourself and illuminate others. twenty percent of the population are 65 For the past year, Carey Tsai (蔡凱利), 57, a retired citizen and over. The Taiwanese born during of , Miaoli, has helmed the foundation as CEO. Before the Japanese occupation, who lived sitting down to talk about her involvement with Concord, she held a small lunchtime concert for diners at a Korean restaurant. through Martial Law and saw their Singing, she thought, would have been the busiest part of country steer itself towards democracy, her retirement. But Lin had been badgering Tsai to come and are now a “burden” for the government work for his foundation for a while and she could not resist the and the people. However, local challenge. communities are rising to the challenge. “He needed his next CEO to be full-time. I was still a high school principal at that point and he kept asking me when I was going to retire. I had never really heard of Concord before, but some of my students had volunteered for their events. I knew Mr. Lin and admired his family and their generosity in the community. He is my idol,” she says with a wide smile. Tsai’s work as the first full-time CEO has centred around uniting and leading the fifty volunteers and beneficiaries they serve from Monday to Friday. Being a principal more than prepared her for this challenge and she quickly proved herself as the driving force Concord needed. She explains how for two years prior to her arrival, an idea to replace the paper lunchboxes with waste-free stainless-steel ones had been batted around, but amounted to nothing. In her first month, Tsai successfully made the idea a reality. “Communication is the key to leadership,” she notes, “and my secret to good communication is to think about other people’s points of view.” Such clarity and empathy within the foundation has created a balance which, Tsai feels, is the lifeblood of community. There is a constant back and forth conversation between volunteers and beneficiaries. Tsai does not stand and dictate. She listens and tries to find the most harmonious way forward. Every day Tsai spends one or two hours in the kitchens as the lunches are being prepared before being whisked away for

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delivery. Occasionally, she will accompany volunteers on the deliveries, some of which are as far as two hours away. Most important to Tsai is that she and the volunteers eat together. After the kitchens close around midday, everyone convenes to talk about their lives, the highs and the lows, over the same lunchboxes being distributed across the county. She believes that each time, they all grow tighter as a unit and eating the lunchboxes allows them to constantly assess whether they are serving their purpose. Do they taste good? Are they filling? She needs to know. The beneficiaries are also upfront with the delivery volunteers about the contents of their lunchbox. Some may think the soup might have been too plain or the rice too hard. Beyond that, there is even a cultural dichotomy Tsai has had to deal with. is primarily divided into Hakka and Taiwanese ethnic groups, and the Hakka population like their food salty, something which is not as appealing to the Taiwanese. But the parameters of funding mean that such diversity cannot be catered to. The kitchen has limited equipment and just one professional chef. The steady rise and fall in numbers each day as beneficiaries pass away and new ones are taken on has ultimately made finding a middle ground crucial.

Nowhere else is Tsai’s “the more you give, the more you get” attitude more evident than when speaking with the volunteers. Wang Xiufeng (王秀鳳), unlike most volunteers who are retirees, has held down a job while helping prepare lunches every Friday for the last eleven years. Her co-volunteer Ou Shouqin (歐守琴) even works a night shift until 7 am before heading to the kitchens an hour later. For them, each Friday is the highlight of the week, where friends come together and give back to society. The gains of the role cannot be ignored. Friends inspired by their work, but with less time, often donate money for supplies and others have even started replicating Concord’s work by making lunches for those who live beyond the catchment area. For a long time, Wang has taken her children and grandchildren to see how she gives back and, in turn, providing an opportunity for them to feel grateful for the lives that they have. She wants to “plant the seed” with the hopes that they will one day follow her path. But it cannot be forced, she states, affirming that benevolence should come from a genuine desire to help. When she proudly mentions that her grandson has donated his pocket money and red envelope to the foundation, it is clear that her small effort to cultivate the next generation of volunteers is paying off. “That is why she is my role model,” chimes in Ou, “now I take my children along, too.” But Wang bashfully brushes this off. As for the demands, patience is a quality they believe one must have in no short supply. Patience and through it all a constant optimism about the work they do. Coming into the kitchen to find that they need to make one less lunchbox than the day before can only mean one thing. “But that’s life,” says Wang, “and we have to keep moving for the others,” as Ou adds “it’s just good news that we are still serving so many people.” Looking to the future, Tsai wants to focus on developing the balance between physical and mental health, which means tackling head-on the all-too-common isolation of senior citizens. Every delivery is a social interaction, and a good conversation can almost be as restorative as a square meal. Last year, Tsai organised an event that brought the beneficiaries together with high school students. It was such a hit that she wants to arrange gatherings of that nature on a regular basis. Like the volunteers, she Elliott Hodgkin has found bringing children into the picture injects a new lease of life. The exchange of is a student at stories in Hakka, Taiwanese and Mandarin has built a bridge between the generations. the University of Leeds and has Above it all, Tsai wants to ensure children will grow to appreciate their lives and know a case of wanderlust that he just how to care for the ones who paved the way. Taiwan may be a society in distress, but its can’t shake. people are coming to the rescue. Special thanks: Mandy Chen (陳詩薇)

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Kenneth Dickson has been an active member of several photography groups, including TEPC, for the past couple of years. He loves Tamsui for its cooler evenings, warm evening golden hours, and a gentler pace of life. Let's uncover Taiwan with our cameras together at Photowalkers Taiwan.

TEPC Exhibition: Our Island Bringing Everyone Share few words by by Lu Furne Together

TEXT: KENNETH DICKSON IMAGES: INDIVIDUAL SUBMISSIONS TO THE TEPC PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION

uring the TEPC Exhibition, one of our social values has been to include everyone in our social action to help Father Moal's charitable works. We've talked to photographers, collectors, Dfriends, family, colleagues, students, visitors, and even strangers. But our Photography Competition went a step further by allowing people who are not in Taipei to participate through submitting their own images. That message of being inclusive in our seemingly divisive era is of particular importance: Let's Bring Everyone Together. So to show our appreciation to the participants who submitted their images, we're featuring their best images in appreciation. TEPC Website: http://www.tepc.club Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Our.Island.Exhibition/ Taipei by Craig Ferguson

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澎湖古厝 by Jing-Shung Hsu

清水斷崖 by Jing-Shung Hsu

奪魂鋸在西門 by Serena Chang

Skateboarding by Serena Chang

by JJ Chen

Street by JJ Chen

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Dumplings by Timo Volz

Vase Rock Xiao Liu Qiu by Timo Volz

TEPC TAIWAN EXCHANGE PHOTO CLUB

A monthly meeting of photographers in Taipei, founded by Patrice Delmotte, that discusses a selection of photographs submitted by participants. It welcomes constructive criticism and advice on technique as well as art. Every two years, the group organizes an exhibition of the photographers' works to raise money for deserving charities and causes in Taiwan. To find out more, join the group on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TEPCpatrice/

Save $200 with our early bird ticket deal! Join us for

a Wickednight out

The Community Services Center Annual Auction Dinner Tickets: $4,000 $3,800 through Sept 20 Table of 10: $38,000

Friday, October 25 The Grand Hyatt Taipei

Costumes optional but encouraged! Prizes will be awarded.

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World Oceans Day 2019 Saturday, June 8

On World Oceans Day, people around our blue planet celebrate and honor the ocean, which connects us all. Get together with your family, friends, community, and the planet to start creating a better future. Working together, we can and will protect our shared ocean. Join this growing global celebration on June 8!

Why Celebrate World Oceans Day?

A healthy world ocean is critical to our survival. Every year, World Oceans Day provides a unique opportunity to honor, help protect, and conserve our world’s shared ocean. The ocean is important because it: ● Generates most of the oxygen we breathe ● Helps feed us ● Regulates our climate ● Cleans the water we drink ● Offers a pharmacopoeia of medicines ● Provides limitless inspiration! www.worldoceansday.org

La Benida Hui is a passionate environmental educator and artist who strives to raise plastic awareness on a small island (Xiao Liuqiu or or Lamay) in southern Taiwan. She has hosted World Turtle Day and World Ocean Day for the last five years partnering up with the Environmental Protection Bureau, businesses and various NGOs. Through clean-ups, on-site art installations and art education programs and workshops at the local schools and other locations, she hopes to turn this island into the greenest in Taiwan. For more information about her work please take a look at her website: www.rareawareness.com or on FB: R.A.R.E.-Rare Animals Really Endangered. She lives by Baba Dioum's words: “In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we are taught.”

MORNING BOOK CLUB June 11 Eve of a Hundred Midnights: World War II Correspondents and Their Escape across the Pacific by Bill Lascher

July 9 Undaunted: Surviving Jonestown, Summoning courage and Fighting Back by Jackie Speier For Morning Book Club meeting dates, times & location, contact Julie Hu at: [email protected]

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The Thermos Foundation, Taiwan Hosts: Luba Lukova’s Exhibition on Designing Justice

TEXT & IMAGES: LUBA LUKOVA

DESIGNING JUSTICE he Thermos Foundation is pleased to host Luba Lukova, a young Bulgarian graphic Luba Lukova artist designer based in New York and her solo exhibition Designing Justice. I’ve always believed that art plays an important role in society, T Lukova has selected fifty poster pieces focusing not only for bringing beauty and magic to our lives, but for asking on the issues of war, gender, education, economy critical questions. That’s why I wanted to become an artist from a and humanity. Through her unique way of very young age. visualization, Lukova hopes that people will begin But sometimes it’s easy to get discouraged about the purpose to discuss their reactions to her work and the of art when we see that injustice, poverty, and wars continue issues associated with each of her images. despite the creation of so many powerful images, books, movies. The Thermos Foundation and associates realize Does art really change anything? I do believe it does. Art that more and more people are engaging in the changes the world the way drops of water transform the surface design industry, especially the younger generation. of a rock — slowly but surely. It is impossible for it to fix, in an We hope that this exhibition will help to raise instant, a declining economy or erase social inequality, but art people’s consciousness about current societal changes the way people see and understand reality. issues and how designers can assist in bringing Art spurs thinking, engagement, and action. And if we often these issues to the public’s attention with the lose faith in its impact, those in power are quite aware of it. If hope of fostering positive change. pictures, words, and songs were so innocent and benign, there wouldn’t be censorship in this world. If art were so unimportant, would dictatorial regimes depend so much on it? An image is able to grab the viewer’s attention and in seconds translate a complex idea into an accessible message. That’s what poster art does best as a medium. It transcends language, cultures and politics in a most succinct way. In today’s digital era, so much information comes to us through a computer screen or mobile device. We are drowned in email blasts and web pages and it seems that posters have lost their importance as a communicative tool. But these simple printed images live on inner city walls, in theaters and clubs, and political rallies — places where real people meet other real people. And we need that human connection even more now that we’re in such a virtual world. Posters are visual reactions to the most pressing issues of our time. By depicting images of injustice and justice, and instilling them in the minds of the viewers, they act as a lever, helping bend that long arc of history toward justice.

[Designing Justice] Luba Lukova Solo Exhibition Date: 2019.5.26-7.7 Time: Tue.-Sun. 11:00-18:00 (Closed Mon.) Venue: Studio94 Address: No.94, Yangde Blvd., Shilin Dist., Taipei

Opening 2019.5.26 Sun. 4pm “Play for Peace and Life” Jazz Concert by Trio Baron/Chou/Bello

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Banksy: Art for the People

TEXT & IMAGES: LUCA DE CADILHAC anksy is a British artist, being expelled from school, spent or at least that’s what some time in prison for occasional everyone believes. Is petty crimes. Nowadays, he is not Banksy one person or only an artist, but also a political Bmany? If he has it his way, we will activist, and a rebellious one at that. probably never find out. What we All his frustrations and perceptions can be sure about is that his work, of the current state of society are name and fame are well known channeled back into his art. all over the world, thanks to his At first glance, the piece Donut rebellious artistic style. (Strawberry), may appear like For the first time, Banksy’s art pop-art, as saccharine as the pastry pieces were exhibited here in Taipei, it depicts. But it has a bitter center. at the Bellavista Gallery near Taipei The image depicts a police truck with 101, and even though they were an oversized glazed donut set atop, only accessible to the public for nine surrounded by police motorcycles. days, the gallery made a big impact The red and blue lights of the police on the Taiwanese audience, who vehicles and the pink icing are a came in their hoards to check out the shocking contrast to the grungy black infamous works. of Banksy’s primary medium: spray The exhibition consisted of thirty paint. The message that the artist art pieces, twelve of which have been wants to convey is a critique of the sold, including his signature work, American police, who are always Girl With Balloon Girl with Balloon (2004). pictured in movies as lazy workers It’s thought that the artist, after sitting around and eating. It is also

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a nod to the superficial nature of the which intends to send a positive American Dream, depicting the donut message to future generations. as a sweet and appealing dessert, but The work was sold for one million with not much else to offer. pounds sterling in London last A very interesting and fascinating October, and after the artist half aspect of Banksy’s work, perhaps shredded the work before surprised the most attractive to my eyes, is the auction attendees, its value is thought artist’s involvement in politics, and to have skyrocketed. even if he is no politician, his voice The exhibition in Taipei received is widely heard throughout his work. a very warm reaction from the Chequebook Vandalism The portrait CND Soldiers is a brilliant audience, as every day at the Bellavita example, as it has been used in order Mall many tourists came to stroll to show disapproval towards the around the room. British government, which decided Given his growing global popularity to join the war in Iraq in 2003. The hopefully it won’t be long until his scene represents two soldiers, one of anarchic work will be back in Taiwan whom is painting a wall with a guilty for a longer stint. expression, while his fellow is keeping The reasons the artist was selected a lookout. The soldier’s drawing, a in 2010 on a list of the hundred most peace sign in red, is the only colored influential contemporary artists are object in the picture. Both the color many: his anonymity is probably the and the sign are used as a deliberate key to his success. Graffiti is illegal, but comment on the war, which instead when Banksy sprays something onto a of bringing peace and solutions, only wall, in whichever city, it becomes an brings death and destruction. iconic, bank-shatteringly expensive art Last, but definitely not least, the work. Banksy’s following is so invested essence of Banksy is represented in the mystery he has so cleverly concisely within one picture: Girl weaved, that revealing the name of with Balloon. The work has evolved the artist is not of interest anymore. over time, its subject representing Instead they remain loyal to the artist new ideas over the years. In 2014 the and wait for the next discovery. Girl was used to symbolize the third The artist could be a man, but it anniversary of the Syrian war, showing could also be a group of artists, and support for the victims and rising we will probably never find out. awareness of the unfortunate events. What is important to always keep In 2017, during the British elections, in mind when contemplating a Banksy the artist proposed to send a signed piece is his history and background. copy to each citizen who would vote After growing up poor and without access to any formal art training, he against the Conservatives, but for smiley cooper C legal reasons he had to withdraw. made his way up to international This small, simple painting could success. As he mentioned in an easily be taken as an illustration from interview, in today’s society an artist a children’s book. As in Donut, the use does not have to sleep with important of color is restricted, this time to one people or attend fancy colleges in object: a red heart-shaped balloon. order to succeed, instead you just Its owner, a young girl, appears sad need ideas. Ideas that provoke as her red balloon flies away. Is it an change. accident? Or is she deliberately letting The artist is the Robin Hood of the it go? art world. After years of elitism, art After taking a closer look, the finally belongs to the people. answer is clear. The girl is sad because she has to let go. The balloon is thought to be a symbol of innocence, which in our society is increasingly easy to lose. It is a critique of the Luca de Cadilhac is conditions under which teenagers a student from Italy and young children live today, losing whose passions are their childhood and growing up far languages, travel, too early. The picture is followed by photography and the sentence, “There is always hope,” international cuisine. CND soldiers

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Mobile Sandalshop, San Chong, Ink and Acrylic on 300gsm Paper, 37.5 x 27cm My Life’s Work in Progress

TEXT & IMAGES: DAVID LLOYD

’m David Lloyd, an artist, traveler this planet are. but a few things) are very different and skateboarder from Liverpool, I graduated with a Fine Art degree to my hometown of Liverpool. These U.K. I’ve always loved drawing, from Liverpool John Moores University differences are a huge part of what painting and football, and at the age in the year 2000. The following year, makes it so interesting, but can be Iof twelve discovered skateboarding. It a skateboarder friend of mine was overwhelming, and at times in my gave me new challenges, freedom and teaching English in Taiwan and offered early days they were. I’m a positive endless enjoyment, exposing me to another friend the chance to do it. I was and optimistic person, but everyone new cultures, influences and different feeling a little disillusioned by the lack of struggles at times. I think it’s natural ways of looking at things. possibilities available after graduation, to feel isolated and alone in a situation The time, effort and failures it takes and this seemed like a great opportunity like this, away from home and family. to learn new things and realize ideas for an adventure, so I asked if I could Sometimes, I did question why I was on a skateboard have been a huge come too. This all happened very here and felt certain I’d return home influence on my artwork, teaching me quickly, I quit my call-center job, and after my three months. Adjusting was patience and perseverance, to never planned to try it for three months, even difficult and I missed my old life. It was give up and enjoy the long process though I couldn’t speak any Chinese, really hard, but it was nice to see palm of creating art. It also made me pay and to be honest, didn’t even know trees on my way to work. Not speaking more attention to the small details where Taiwan was! the language and learning to teach and idiosyncrasies of my surroundings, Arriving in Taiwan was a shock for English and Art were huge challenges, which also helped my art. all the senses! Taiwan is an incredibly but luckily, being with two friends, Traveling and experiencing new beautiful sub-tropical island, and skateboarding and making art made it places and cultures are very inspiring very different to chilly, wet and windy easier to relax and enjoy the culture to me. Seeing different aspects of life England in so many ways. The people, shock as I slowly improved. makes me appreciate how amazing, environment, climate, weather, nature, I got a bike and rode around New beautiful and precious life and time on buildings, food and drink (to name Taipei City with a map, trying to get my

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Yu Cheng Park, Nangang, Ink and Acrylic on Paper, 75 x 26.3 cm

bearings, getting lost and finding new and interesting places to see, skate and paint, which I still enjoy doing today. This is one of the beauties of Taiwan: never knowing what’s hidden around the corner or down small alleys until you actually go down them. I have found many interesting things and places this way. As I got to know the city more, learnt some Chinese and met my future wife, I began to enjoy living in Taiwan. My three months adventure in Taiwan has now lasted for over fifteen years, and I would encourage anyone to do the same. It’s a big and beautiful world out there with many unexpected opportunities and possibilities to discover and explore. Life is very interesting with many ups and downs and unforeseen twists and turns. Although I never planned to be a teacher, I’m very grateful it gave me the opportunity to come to Taiwan and meet my wife. I enjoy teaching and it gives me the opportunity to follow my true passion of creating art. From 2012 to 2015 I returned to England and decided to concentrate on my artwork. I had solo and group exhibitions, joined the Threshold Art and Music Festival, and took part in the Sky Arts Portrait Artist of the Year 2014 TV series. I also Brisbane, Mixed-Media on Canvas, 91 x 72.5 cm held drawing and painting workshops for people recovering from mental health issues at a recovery center and the Bluecoat Chambers in Liverpool, which I found very fulfilling. Since returning to Taiwan I’ve been more pro-active in seeking new creative opportunities and this is how I found the Redroom and the Community Services Center, and I’m very happy that I did! I think places like the Center and the Redroom are very important and invaluable sources of help and comfort to many people, both new to Taiwan and those who’ve been here awhile. It’s always very useful and important to know there is someone you can talk to, or a place to go that offers activities where you can meet others in similar situations. The Redroom is an amazing Brisbane, Mixed-Media on Canvas, 91 x 72.5 cm

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David Lloyd's work is driven by the desire to represent the world around him as he tries to better understand and learn from it.

Fishing Platforms, Sun Moon Lake, 23 x 30.5 cm, Oil Pastel on Black Paper

international group of creative people from all walks of life and backgrounds that promote and encourage creativity in all its forms, whatever they may be. I feel very happy and fortunate to be a part of the Visual Dialogues Art Collective, and have joined many great events, exhibitions, and the Zhongshan Road Mural Project with them. Anyone who doesn’t know about the Redroom should definitely check it out, as they arrange many different events and activities for all the family. It‘s a very welcoming, supportive and creative environment that encourages all things good and positive. I hugely enjoy the atmosphere there, and working with so many talented and creative people has allowed me to experience and learn many new skills. So for now, I’ll continue looking for creative opportunities, exhibitions, and commissions, whilst creating artwork inspired by my surroundings, trying to learn from each piece and improve my abilities and techniques as much as possible. I feel honored and thankful to have sold original artworks, prints, and commissioned portraits of people and pets to collectors in different parts of the world. To see more examples of my Artwork please visit: www.dloduk.wordpress.com and www.artfinder.com/david-lloyd Dragon 2, San Chong, Ink on Brown Paper, 19.5 x 26 cm

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June 2019_p3-end.indd 22 2019/5/27 下午11:44 ART & CULTURE Enter the Dragons Musings on Their Mist- Shrouded Meanings

TEXT: JIM KLAR IMAGE: WEB

very society in every part of power of clarity. to blame. Whale bones washed ashore the world shares the common ’s post WWII incarnation might also have led to freak outs and experience that at some time stomped into the global celluloid stories of giant beasts. in their history or mythology psyche in 1954, long before the advent A more recent idea is that these Ea dragon reared its thorny head. As of CGI. Played by an actor named Haruo myths are hard-wired into the human deep as the ocean’s darkest trench, Nakajima in a rubber suit, Godzilla was brain and share responsibility for our there is no limit to the imagination disturbed from his sea-bottom slumber survival. Anthropologist David E. Jones and fascination about them in every by atomic tests. He is virtually immune argues in his book, An Instinct for language and every culture. In China to the outrageous slings and arrows Dragons, that a composite image of the they’re said to have a horse’s head, of modern military weaponry, and serpents, predatory cats, and raptors a snake’s tail, a demon’s eyes, the breathes atomic fire – a grim metaphor that terrorized our primate ancestors belly of a clam, the scales of a carp, an for nuclear holocaust. Godzilla finally is embedded in the human limbic eagle’s claws and a cow’s ears. In the got his own star on Hollywood’s Walk system (the so-called "reptilian brain"). West they’re winged with horns, four- of Fame on his fiftieth birthday in 2004. Jones posits that these predators legs and a breath of fire. No matter Headlining no less than 35 films to terrorized our primate ancestors, thus which version you prefer, once you date, you’ll find this rough beast forever becoming the default image of fear start looking closely you will find them slouching towards Tokyo. and loathing, and just as monkeys are everywhere. We see no shortage of graphic known to exhibit an instinctive fear There are reputed to be 250,000 human barbecues as they’ve been of large predators, early humans that of them throughout Taipei’s Grand depicted in Western mythology, fantasy developed this instinct were more likely Hotel, a structure built at the behest fiction, films and television, incinerating to reproduce. of Madame Chiang Kai-shek when she heroes and villains alike with their Is it all just symbolism? Exaggerated decided there were no hotels in town flaming breath. From Harry Potter to fairy tales based on actual monstrous luxurious enough for her hosting of Game of Thrones, they fly and toast, beasts? A quirky, hard-wired remnant global dignitaries. A quarter of a million toast and fly. Some are noble creatures of evolution in our brains? A metaphor symbols of power, strength and good guarding a magical treasure, though for modern atomic terror? We may luck may seem like overkill, but keep more often aligned with the forces forever search for the truth. But maybe in mind it was the 1950s, a period not of darkness. And the slaying of one we really don’t want to find it, because exactly known for restraint, when cars by a Roman soldier named George sometimes not knowing is better. When had giant tailfins. As the deposed first saved a princess and turned him into a you get right down to it, one man’s couple of one of the largest countries saint. Although the feat was originally history is just another’s mythology. And in the world, she and hubby needed to attributed to Saint Theodore, “St. Ted” when ancient cartographers wanted to make an impression. didn’t sound as inspiring. show a dangerous or unexplored area Raise your glance from your stinky A popular theory of how these on their maps of the world, they used tofu to the roofline on any Taipei street icons became embedded in the just three words, “Here be dragons.” and you’re sure to spy several of them subconscious of cultures that had no among the strikingly ornate phoenixes, contact with each other is that real- big-headed immortals and deities life animals inspired the first legends, Jim Klar is an American frolicking atop the nearest temple. and there are several likely suspects. Expat living in Taipei for Traditionally constructed from bits of Ancient dinosaur fossils could easily the last four years. His flawed or broken ceramic, porcelain have been misinterpreted by the first passions include Buddhist bowls and colorful glass, this type of 3D unskilled paleontologists. The massive meditation, cycling, martial mosaic tile sculpture method is called Nile crocodile reaches up to eighteen arts, blues harmonica, studying Chinese Jiannian (剪黏), and it began in the feet in length, and to an early human and being a good father and husband. (1644-1911). As part of it could be mistaken for a monster. He sings and plays throughout the local these colorful menageries, they sparkle Monitor lizards with razor-sharp teeth music scene and can often be spotted in the Taiwan sun as fierce guardians and claws and toxic saliva that causes on his bicycle high in the peaks of and symbols of enlightenment and the bites to become infected could also be Yangmingshan National Park.

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Sky Lanterns: Wreckage or Culture?

TEXT: ELIZABETH LAM IMAGES: ELIZABETH LAM AND WEB

t had been raining for five days traditional culture, worth the sacrifice old couple on a nearby trail, where we before the sun came out, on a of our environment, I wondered. could still see lanterns being released. Sunday. To shake off the blues, my According to historians, the sky “Back in the time when bandits mom and I decided to hike along the lantern is said to have been invented regularly raided Pingxi, villagers would Ithe trails between Shulin and Yingge. by military strategist Zhuge Liang (AKA hide in the surrounding mountains It was a pleasant walk in a Kongming) during the Warring States during a raid until men who’d stayed in grove, accompanied by jackfruit trees, period (3rd century BC) in China. Liang the lit a sky lantern as a signal and with the smell of sweet osmanthus wrote a message on a sky lantern and to say it was safe to return” said the in the air, and ended at a hundred- released it into the sky to summon help man. He also told me another story year-old banyan tree. At one point when he was surrounded by enemies. that sky lanterns were a tradition we awoke a flock of wild birds while So how did the sky lantern become a from Huian County in China’s passing by a dense thicket, and looking traditional activity in the New Taipei Province, which was brought here after in the direction they’d fled, a large City village of Pingxi, the center of ancestors from there moved to Pingxi. piece of red paper caught my attention. today’s sky lantern culture in Taiwan? They would light up sky lanterns during It was a burned sky lantern, fallen from I decided to revisit Pingxi, where Chinese New Year as symbolic “letters” the sky and hanging on branches like I used to praise the beauty of the to their families back in China. “But our a drop of red paint on a green canvas. dreamy flames, to look for the answer. favorite story about the origin of the Is this, brusquely left here by our Luckily, my question was solved by an sky lantern is that the pronunciation

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of sky lantern in Taiwanese (thian ting) sounds similar to the phrase for ‘having a baby boy’ (thinn ting). Pingxi residents used sky lanterns as fertility prayers,” he explained. A silence struck our conversation. We all stood there and watched as the fifth lantern fell into the forest like a fallen culture whose past and future no one is interested in. Those lantern remains, including metal wires and bamboo frames, fall either into the river or into the tops of trees, where they are impossible to reach. There they not only cause environmental pollution, but also became a potential threat to wildlife. To reduce the environmental impact, the government offers rewards to members of the public for returning the abandoned lanterns, but can we expect the very few elders who make their living by redeeming recyclables to collect more than a tiny percentage of the burnt lantern remains? Fortunately, Taiwan Adventure Outings and other groups of volunteers arrange activities to clean up sky lanterns along the Pingxi and Shifen railroad and in the surrounding woods, but they can only reach the more easily accessible remains. On my way back to Shifen station, I passed by a group of tourists, who were sharing the joy of the sky lantern experience, and I could not help but wonder, “How much does it cost to experience a culture while a part of it and the environment are withering away each time the flame inside goes out?”

Abandoned sky lanterns in the beautiful countryside around Pingxi village

Elizabeth Lam is a UX designer, amateur painter, and lifetime explorer, who spends most of her time creating paths in Illustrator, and the rest of her time looking for paths in nature.

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trip, and after a brief visit to my room to put my luggage away and freshen up, I was met by the snorkeling company's employee, on a scooter. We then picked up two other girls with their own scooter and rode on to the shop for a change into snorkeling outfits and shoes.

TAKING TO THE WATER When we were suited up, we rode to the Vase Rock area for some Xiao Liuqiu snorkeling. Vase Rock is an iconic coral rock formation on the coast right next to the main street of the island. It is TEXT & IMAGES: JAYA HIRANANDANI overlooked by the impressive facade of the Lingshan Temple, one of seventy temples on the tiny island, and a aving heard great reviews Taipei to the sunny skies and clear picture here is a must for every visitor. from fellow teachers who waters of the coral island was tedious The three of us were now a part had visited Xiao Liuqiu, I yet comfortable. of a bigger group, a large, gregarious finally decided to take a family who took some time taking Hsolo trip to this tiny coral island off ARRIVAL pictures, joking around and giving time the southern coast of Taiwan. As I had As soon as I set foot off the boat, I to the kids to practice their snorkeling rarely traveled solo for leisure, planning saw touts carrying placards with names technique near the shore. I practiced and going to Xiao Liuqiu (also known (mostly in Chinese) of various hotels or too, and saw some really beautiful fish as Lambai or Lama Island) was an B&Bs that visitors can stay at. Further right there in just three feet of water! adventure for me. Luckily, the Internet down are some scooter shops, but Snorkeling turned out to be a great allows for these spur-of-the-moment since I did not have a Taiwanese scooter experience, and though the coral trips to be planned much faster, and license, I was told to rent an electric reef was not as alive or colorful as tons of valuable information about the scooter. One of the shop owners gave many in the Philippines or Thailand, island is readily available. me a ride to the nearby electric scooter sighting four green turtles more than With a return HSR ticket and a shop and within a few minutes I had a made up for it. The sea turtles I saw booking at a well-reviewed hostel, I set quiet, eco-friendly, lightweight and easy- were huge, about four or five feet in out on a Saturday morning for my mini- to-ride scooter to call my own for a day. length, and swam fearlessly around escape. My six-hour commute from The scooter rental shopkeeper throngs of snorkelers, calmly looking Taipei to Xiao Liuqiu included an MRT provided a map which I kept for for and munching any coral they could ride to Taipei Main Station, followed emergencies, but I relied mostly on the find. I had to retract my legs when a by a two-hour ride on the HSR from Google Maps application on my phone turtle swam by, as touching them is Taipei to Zuoying, then a taxi ride to to get around. prohibited. Apart from the turtles, Donggang Harbor, and finally a ferry I reached my hostel and chatted with one can admire various colorful and to Baisha Terminal on the island. The the manager about things to do on the patterned tropical coral fish, as well as journey to get from a cloudy, humid island. She helped me book a snorkeling long-spined black sea urchins lodged in

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the crevices of the reef. easy access to the scenic spots down After snorkeling, I rode around the south. The 6.8 square kilometer island island and had dinner at one of the takes about an hour to ride around. popular restaurants on Sanmin Road I rode my scooter down Sanmin Road in the harbor area. I read for a while to reach . The cave before calling it a night. itself is unimpressive unless you find squeezing through the tight crevices of ROUND THE ISLAND a twenty-or-so meter long semi-natural The next morning, one of my cave a challenge. The story behind the roommates (from China) and I cave, though, is controversial and you got up early to catch the sunrise. might find it interesting to read the Unfortunately, the sky was hazy, so official version at the site itself and the we chatted for a while and I decided unofficial version online. to walk around to take pictures of the surrounding area. Ultimately, the sun BOARS AND BEAUTIES appeared and the harbor area looked For NT$120, I had bought a ticket to beautiful in the early morning light. visit four tourist spots which are easy After a quick traditional Taiwanese to reach by scooter. A few minutes breakfast of luobuo gao (radish cake) later, I parked my scooter outside and dan bing (scallion pancake), I the hiking trail entrance at Wild Boar checked out of the hostel and put my Trench. The scenic trail is convenient ride to good use. There is a scenic and easily accessible as it has well round-the-island road running along constructed wooden pathways. With the coast as well as a main road cutting lush bamboo, banyan, fern and other through the middle of the island for flora around you and natural caves and

1. Natural caves can be seen everywhere 1 2. The iconic Vase Rock

2 3. Evidence of the island being made of coral is visible as you walk around 3 4 4. Wild Boar Trench hiking trail

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1 2 1. Way to the harbor from Sanmin Road 3 2. View from the Seaview Platform in the area

3. Ancient trees

below and coming up for breath), with and we exchanged pleasantries ancient trees, and a few shops for that and told each other of our plans. refreshing popsicle or drink afterwards. A twenty-minute ferry ride later After about four hours of sightseeing, I landed at the Donggang terminal I had another nice noodle lunch at hoping to find a taxi to take me to the friendly English-speaking lady's Zuoying when I spotted my two restaurant opposite my hostel who snorkeling friends waving wildly and remembered that I don't eat meat and beckoning me over. One of them was made me a steaming hot bowl of chao going to drive to Zuoying, and they mian (stir-fried noodles) with lots of wanted to give me a ride. Although green veggies and soy granules. language was a barrier, I found out that the two ladies were ex-colleagues and HOMEWARD BOUND good friends who worked together in As I enjoyed my lunch with a chilled Taipei before, but now lived in different can of beer, I made a mental note of cities. They are still friends and take things that I would do the next time trips together to explore Taiwan. I visit. Sunset kayaking and diving are Getting a free lift from strangers on the top of my list, as was visiting reminded me of the ride sharing during the week rather than at the concept like BlaBlaCar being used by weekend. Although the island is not a travelers around the world. great place for lying on sandy In the end, I'd say solo travel (sharp coral particles make the is all about making connections. several “thread of sky" gorges (paths uncomfortable to walk or lie down on) It sometimes puts you in an through narrow clefts with just a bit the water activities - snorkeling, diving uncomfortable place and pushes you of sky visible) dotting the area, it's a and kayaking - as well as spotting the to face unfamiliar situations alone great place to connect with nature. On turtles and exploring the temples and and seek connections with strangers. weekdays, the trail might be quieter tourist sights more than make up for it. When done with the right mindset and less crowded. After returning my scooter, I went to though, solo travel can help us feel My next stop was Beauty Cave, the ferry terminal and lined up for the braver and more connected to the which, apart from the said cave, next ferry. There is a duty-free shop world around us. includes various other beautiful right at the terminal, and lots of people attractions within about a 600 meter were picking up their stuff as they Jaya Hiranandani is a long- radius. Maps are not provided, so it passed the designated counter. Another time resident, primary teacher would be a good idea to take a picture thing that people bought was the by profession and a life-long of the map at the entrance to guide famous snack of Xiao Liuqiu - mahua la. learner by choice. When she’s your meanderings through the area. I saw bags and bags (and in one case, not with her children (her own The walk is dotted with coral rocks, even a suitcase) full of these fried or teenage sons or her ‘kids’ at crevices and caves, beautiful views baked dough twists in various flavors. school) she can be found playing online of the sea (you can invariably spot a While waiting in the line, I met the boggle, reading historical fiction/ turtle or three swimming in the waters two girls that I had been snorkeling spiritual books or traveling.

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RICHARD SAUNDERS EXPLORES TAIWAN'S LESS-TRODDEN PATHS

Penghu Basalt Formations

TEXT & IMAGES: RICHARD SAUNDERS

’ ve been fascinated by the extraordinary Fingal’s Cave and the Giant’s Causeway (in Scotland and Northern Ireland respectively) since I was a kid, and was astonished, at the tender age of eleven, to discover that the intimidating Devil’s Tower (which played a central role in the move Close Encounters of the Third Kind) was in fact a real place. But it wasn’t until after I arrived in Taiwan in the early 1990s that I got to visit, in person, the first examples of this novel, but completely natural phenomenon. Those polygonal shapes were all created by lava. Spewing from the Earth, the molten rock cooled rapidly, contracting and cracking as it cooled into countless vertical basalt columns To put things into perspective, Taiwan’s basalt column formations are far less spectacular than those three far-famed natural wonders, but a visit to the best known of them, the Whale Cave on Xiaomen island, is virtually de rigueur during a trip to that favorite summer holiday destination, the Penghu archipelago. This strange natural arch is a short detour off the highway which links the five main islands at the center of the archipelago, but the columns here are rather crude, and more square than hexagonal, so I suggest motoring southwards a few kilometers further to Neian Recreational Area, which boasts one of the best areas of basalt cliffs on Penghu reachable by two (or four) wheels. After coming this far (and it’s a lengthy, monotonous drive here from , the main town on Penghu!), take a however, you’ll have to take to the South Sea Islands of Qimei, Wang-an, short detour off the main road to pass waters and explore the outlying islands Hujing and Tongpan. Pacific island Mount Niuxin, a stumpy little dome of the archipelago. This can become a retreats these windswept islands are of a hill crowned with an elaborate time-consuming and rather expensive definitely not, but they have some jaw- flourish of basalt columns that look activity if you have to charter a private dropping scenery. The main stop on the almost as though they were stacked boat, but some of the best basalt tour is beautiful Qimei island, where there by hand. column scenery here can be seen by basalt column-seekers should pay a To get a look at the best of Penghu’s taking one of the daily tours from the visit to the impressive Big Stone Lion amazing geological landscapes, harbor at Magong out to the so-called formation on the east coast.

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For one of Penghu’s most impressive geological wonders, though, be sure to stop at tiny Tongpan Island. Here a path from the small docking area passes along the foot of a twenty meter-high cliff of perfectly shaped, vertical basalt columns, which rings the entire island. Eons of weathering in this harsh, exposed environment have softened the edges of the pillars. You’ll be hard-put to find the neat hexagon shapes that can be seen at the Giant’s Causeway, but the wind, rain and salt water have worked their own magic on the cliffs here, eroding deep cracks into the columns, so that in places they look as if they’ll topple as soon as the next sweeps past.

For much more on Penghu's amazing basalt formations (and the other attractions of the archipelago, take a look at a copy of The Islands of Taiwan, available at the Center. The book also includes a chapter on Xiao , featured in the article on page 26 of this issue of Centered on Taipei.

Richard Saunders is a trained classical musician and writer who has lived in Taipei since 1993. He has written several books (available at the Center and in bookshops around Taipei), including Yangmingshan: the Guide (a complete guide to the National Park on Taipei’s doorstep), Taipei Escapes I and 2, which together detail sixty day trips and hikes within easy reach of Taipei city, and The Islands of Taiwan, a guide to Taiwan’s offshore islands. His latest book, Taiwan 101: Essential Hikes, Sights and Experiences around Ilha Formosa, is out now. CSC BUSINESS CLASSIFIED

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