“Pregreta Smetana” (Overheated Cream) – a Revived Slovenian Traditional Dairy Product
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doi:10.14720/aas.2017.110.1.4 Original research article / izvirni znanstveni članek “PREGRETA SMETANA” (OVERHEATED CREAM) – A REVIVED SLOVENIAN TRADITIONAL DAIRY PRODUCT Andreja ČANŽEK MAJHENIČ 1, 2 Received May 25, 2017; accepted December 14, 2017. Delo je prispelo 25. maja 2017, sprejeto 14. decembra 2017. “Pregreta smetana” (overheated cream) – a revived Slovenian “Pregreta smetana” (overheated cream) – obujen slovenski tra- traditional dairy product dicionalni mlečni izdelek The aim of the study was to standardize the technological Cilj raziskave je bil standardizirati tehnološki postopek process for an almost unknown traditional dairy product from za izdelavo malo poznanega tradicionalnega mlečnega izdelka the south-eastern part of Slovenia, called “pregreta smetana” or z jugo-vzhodne Slovenije, imenovanega »pregreta smetana«. “overheated cream”. Traditional process for its production was Tradicionalni tehnološki postopek njene izdelave se je in se še and still is passed from generation to generation by oral tradi- vedno prenaša iz roda v rod predvsem z ustnim izročilom in tion and personal notes, resulting in many variations of a final osebnimi zabeležkami, kar ima za posledico številne različice product. Nevertheless, there are some steps, common in all tra- končnega izdelka. Ne glede na njen izvor pa je nekaj korakov ditional processes regardless to the local area of origin: milk is v tehnološkem postopku izdelave pregrete smetane skupnih, in poured into wide and shallow containers, and after fat-layer is sicer ko mleko razlijemo v široke in plitve posode, ga hranimo na hladnem do oblikovanja plasti smetane na površini, čemur formed on the milk surface during cooling period, the over- sledi pregrevanje v pečici. Vendar pa se časovno/temperatur- heating follows. However, time/temperature regimes of over- ni režimi pregrevanja in ostala rokovanja razlikujejo od proi- heating and other handlings differ from producer to producer. zvajalca do proizvajalca. Zato smo pregreto smetano izdelali v Therefore, four different technological processes were accom- štirih različicah, pri čemer smo posebno pozornost namenili plished, where special attention was focused to parameters as spremljanju parametrov kot so velikost zaplat skorje, tempe- follows: the size of crust patches, the temperature and the time ratura in čas pregrevanja ter intenzivnost mešanja. Na podla- of overheating, and the mode of stirring. From the results of gi rezultatov kemijske in senzorične analize vzorcev pregrete chemical and sensory analysis of the overheated cream samples, smetane smo standardizirali tehnološki postopek. Okus in vonj the technological process was standardized. Taste and aroma of standardiziranega izdelka sta značilna za pregreto smetano, the standardized product were typical, soft, creamy and cara- prijetna, kremasta, čista, brez tujih primesi in karamelizirana, melized, the texture was buttery, smooth to slightly crumbly medtem ko je testo masleno, mazavo, gladko do rahlo grudasto with crust patches, while colour was golden brown to brownish z zaplatami skorje. Barva je maslena, zlato rumena do rjavkasta, and evenly marbled with crust patches. marmorirana z rjavimi zaplatami skorje. Key words: traditional dairy products; overheated cream; Ključne besede: tradicionalni mlečni izdelki; pregreta technology; standardization; chemical analysis; sensory evalu- smetana; tehnologija; standardizacija; kemijske analize; senzo- ation; Slovenia rična ocena; Slovenija 1 University of Ljubljana, Biotehnical Faculty, Department of Animal Science, Domžale, Slovenia; e-mail: [email protected] 2 This article is part of a MSc thesis »Technological procedure of overheated cream (pregreta smetana) production«, issued by Špela Rudolf, supervisor Assist. Prof. Andreja Čanžek Majhenič. Ph. D. Acta argiculturae Slovenica, 110/1, 29–35, Ljubljana 2017 A. ČANŽEK MAJHENIČ 1 INTRODUCTION less to the region, during overheating phase the cream layer is frequently dipped into the milk, which results in Overheated cream is poorly-known dairy product, formation of thicker layer of cream. made of cream that is formed on the surface of boiled Housewives, who still produce overheated cream, milk after a long cooling period through milk fat aggre- use one of the described traditional technological pro- gation with participation of milk proteins, and is further cedures, at which in the phase of overheating, milk dras- overheated in oven for few hours. Although that proto- tically changes and is improper for further processing. col for overheated cream production is very simple and They also explain that milk, remaining after overheating, especially in first part strongly reminds on kaymak pro- is fed to animals or simply discarded, what is unaccepta- duction (Puđa et al., 2006), there is a lack of any techno- ble from either economic or technological point of view. logical records on its manufacture. Mostly the technol- Therefore more and more overheated cream production ogy was and still is passed from generation to generation implements raw milk boiling, followed by a long cooling by oral tradition and personal notes what is resulting in period to allow the formation of skin-like layer (crust) final products of diverse chemical and sensorial charac- on the surface of milk through milk fat aggregation with teristics. significant participation of milk proteins that is collected In the past, overheated cream was known in Styria, from milk and further overheated. In this case, the re- Dolenjska and Zasavje regions where it was produced by maining milk is a by-product of very low fat content but lengthy overheating of milk in a shallow clay containers technologically still of proper quality and can be utilized (earthenware). Raw milk was poured into earthenware, for production of wide range of other fermented dairy then cooled from 6 to 24 h, and finally heated, on stove products, similarly as reported at kaymak production or in baker’s oven, with temperatures above 90 °C. The (Puđa et al., 2006). Almost fat-free remaining milk can temperature was not monitored by thermometers, but be further processed into fresh cheese, yoghurt or sour was empirically estimated by observing the milk until milk, or can even be used as an ingredient at baking. Ac- the blisters were formed. Overheated milk was carefully cording to empirical estimation of housewives, approxi- taken to a cool place for additional 12 to 26 h. After, the mately 12 l of milk is needed for yielding 1 kg of over- separated upper layer was collected from the milk and heated cream (personal communications). Therefore, applied directly for consumption, as a spread on bread, with such optimization of technology, between 10–11 li- or was used as an ingredient for the preparation of some tres of by-product is not discarded but usefully applied festive dishes. in production of diverse fat-free products on farm level. Nowadays, overheated cream is still produced in The overheated cream can be used as a topping, as Dolenjska, Posavje and Bela Krajina regions in Slovenia a stuffing ingredient (for traditional Bela Krajina rolled where it is known under many different local names such cake), and as addition to everyday and special occa- as “škrlup”, “pečena smetana”, “škrlupec” and “škrlubec”. In Dolenjska region, milk in earthenware is slowly heated sion (festive) dishes such as “potica” nut-roll, “štruklji” in baker’s oven, usually after bread baking. Thick layer dough-rolls, soups, gravies (Grum, 1983; Kuhar, 2002). of yellowish cream, so called “škrlupec” is formed on the Around the globe there has been growing interest top of the milk, while the remaining milk is delicious in in preserving local dairy products that reflect tradition, taste due to mild caramelization. Two to three days after habits, heritage, and above all, the identity of a certain being collected from the milk, cream becomes slightly nation. Preserved autochthonous dairy products are na- sour (Renčelj et al., 1995). In Bela Krajina, raw milk tional goods that possess promotional as well as culinary is left for 12 h in cool place, then slowly heated to the potential. The role of science is that together with pro- boiling point that helps to the formation of thick cream ducers find the way to revive and preserve the unique- layer, and finally overheated in the oven at 200 °C for ness of traditional processes, as is the case with over- 10–15 min until cream turns golden yellow to brownish. heated cream. In addition, the presented work faced the Overheated cream is collected from the milk, while oc- greatest challenge because there is no literature available casionally the remaining milk is boiled and coagulated on the overheated cream production and mostly per- with addition of apple vinegar (Bogataj, 2007). In Posavje sonal communications were the most valuable source of region, milk in earthenware is left for 1 day to allow fat information. separation, the next day is overheated in oven at 170 °C Thus, according to all the available and gathered until cream becomes golden yellow to brownish, and is information the attempt for standardized technological left for another day at cool place that the cream surface procedure for overheated cream production was intro- becomes crusty. After, the layer of the overheated cream duced that also helped to unify its sensorial character- is collected from the milk surface (Ilich, 2013). Regard- istics. To standardize the parameters of chemical and 30 Acta agriculturae Slovenica, 110/1 – 2017 “PREGRETA SMETANA”