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Pa e r in t VI. Ukra Europe’s second-largest country flaunts the blue of its skies and the golden fields of wheat in its flag – but Ukraine has so much more to offer

Compiled by Anastasia Gromontova & Benjamin Wolf

CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS SOROCHYNTSI YARMAROK FOLK Stretching 1,500 km from the northwest to the ART FESTIVAL, CENTRAL UKRAINE southeast of Central and Eastern Europe, the ROCK OUT TO OKEAN ELZY WEAR A VYSHYVANKA Carpathians are the second-longest mountain Every August, the village of Velyki Sorochyntsi One of the most popular and successful Part of the national costume, this range on the continent and a stunning natural hosts the Sorochyntsi fair, dazzling visitors with an bands from Ukraine, Okean Elzy was founded hand-embroidered shirt symbolizes preserve. They provide a habitat to the largest array of embroidery, rugs and ceramics from all in 1994 in Lviv and has been rocking the both Ukraine and the particular European populations of wolves and brown regions of Ukraine and theatrical performances continent from east to west ever since. They region where it was made. In recent bears and host more than one-third of all re-enacting village life from Ukrainian stories. also performed during the Euromaidan years, the Vyshyvanka has made a European plant species. protests in 2013, winning them the hearts of fashionable comeback in the country many protesters. and abroad.

TASTE FRESH PRODUCE TAKE THE FUNICULAR & EAT & LVIV, WESTERN UKRAINE GESHEFT GARAGE PINCHUK ART CENTRE, KIEV ICONIC PRYVOZ ENJOY KIEV FROM ABOVE VARENYKY AND DRINK MEAD The largest city in western Ukraine was SALE, ODESSA This center for contemporary art in Kiev sees ON THE also the main hub of the Habsburg crown land itself as a platform for artists and society. MARKET IN ODESSA Constructed in 1902-05 by Arthur Abrahamson, Hailed as the bread basket of Europe for ages, Ukraine of Galicia. Today, it is one of the primary cultural Ukraine hosts a good number of fairs featuring Current exhibitions address the question of who learnt railroad engineering in Zürich and cultivates a storied with tasty, diverse and hearty fare. centers of the country and has the highest young local designers. The Gesheft Garage Sale democracy in modern times (“Democracy Odessa’s largest food market started St. Petersburg, Kiev’s funicular connects the Make sure to try a bowl of borscht garnished with dill and a concentration of cafés per square mile worldwide in Odessa is an independent festival and the as a bazaar in 1827 and was Anew”), showcase Soviet art in Lviv in the ’80s commercial neighborhood of Podil with the dollop of (sour ), followed by varenyky or (take note, Vienna). Consequently, the hipster largest design market in the country, while Kiev and ’90s and explore artistic and perspectives. immortalized in many books, historic Upper Town. (filled ), holubtsi (cabbage rolls) and a beaker count is also exceptional. ofers the Kurazh Bazar and the Vsi Svoi, a sort including Isaak Babel’s Odessa Tales. of mead (fermented honey) to wash it all down. of hipster flea market with a Ukrainian spin.

66 SEPTEMBER 2018 SHUTTERSTOCK. THIS PAGE, PHOTOS PINCHUK ART CNETRE KIEV; GESEHFT GARAGE ODESSA; SHUTTERSTOCK. SHUTTERSTOCK; LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK; FROM TOP CLOCKWISE NEXT PAGE, SEPTEMBER APRIL 2018 67