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Contents

List of Maps vi

1 The Best of Venice 1 1 Frommer’s Favorite Venice Experiences ...... 2 2 Best Bets for Accommodations ...... 5 3 Best Bets for Dining ...... 6

2 Venice in Depth 8 1 Venice Today ...... 8 2 Looking Back at Venice ...... 9 3 Venice’s Art & Architecture ...... 15 4 Venice in Popular Culture: Books, Film & Music ...... 18

3 Planning Your Trip to Venice 22 1 Orientation ...... 22 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 24 2 Visitor Information ...... 27 3 Entry Requirements ...... 29 4 When to Go ...... 32 Venice Calendar of Events ...... 32 5 Getting There & Getting Around ...... 33 6 Money ...... 39

4 Where to Stay 40 1 Near Piazza San Marco ...... 41 2 In Castello/On Riva degli Schiavoni ...... 47 3 Near the Ponte di Rialto ...... 50 COPYRIGHTED4 In Cannaregio ...... MATERIAL ...... 51 5 In Santa Croce ...... 54 6 In Dorsoduro ...... 54 7 On Isola della Giudecca ...... 57 8 Near Piazzale Roma ...... 58 9 On the Lido ...... 58 02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page iv

5 Where to Dine 61 1 Near Piazza San Marco ...... 61 Something Sweet ...... 68 2 In Castello ...... 69 3 Near the Ponte di Rialto ...... 71 4 In Santa Croce ...... 75 5 In San Polo ...... 75 6 In Dorsoduro ...... 76 7 On Isola della Giudecca ...... 78 8 On the Lido ...... 79 9 The Lagoon Islands of Murano, Burano & Torcello ...... 80

6 Exploring Venice 82 1 St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco) ...... 83 2 The Grand Canal (Canal Grande) ...... 91 Venice by Gondola ...... 92 3 Museums & Galleries ...... 92 Carnevale ...... 98 4 Churches & Guild Houses ...... 100 5 The Lido ...... 104 6 The Ghetto ...... 105 7 Organized Tours ...... 105 8 The Lagoon Islands of Murano, Burano & Torcello ...... 106

7 Venice Strolls 110 Piazza San Marco & the Doge’s Palace ...... 110 The Accademia Bridge to Piazza San Marco ...... 129

8 Shopping 145 1 The Shopping Scene ...... 145 2 Tips on Shopping for Glass & Lace ...... 148 3 Shopping A to Z ...... 149 02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page v

9 Venice After Dark 157 1 The Performing Arts ...... 157 2 The Bar Scene ...... 158 3 Wine Bars/Taverns ...... 160 Fueled by Cicchetti ...... 160 4 The Cafe Scene ...... 161 5 Nighttime Ice Cream & Pastries ...... 162 6 Casinos ...... 163 7 A Dance Club ...... 163 8 Gay Clubs ...... 164

Appendix: Venice Fast Facts 165

Index 173 General Index ...... 173 Accommodations Index ...... 179 Restaurant Index ...... 179 02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page vi

List of Maps

Venice & Environs 3 Walking Tour 1: Piazza Venice Orientation 23 San Marco & the Doge’s Palace 112 Where to Stay in Venice 42 Walking Tour 2: The Accade- Where to Dine in Venice 62 mia Bridge to San Marco Piazza San Marco 85 130 What to See & Do Venice Shopping 146 in Venice 86 The Accademia 93