Claire Maguire [email protected] www.islandgirltravelandvacations.com 570-209-7191

VENICE, ITALY

OVERVIEW

Introduction

Venice, Italy, is romance: a bridge arching over a canal, a gondola gliding by, the moon reflecting off water. Venice is history: the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace), Piazza San Marco, the Grand Canal, great art and great museums. Venice is modern: the headline names and paparazzi of the Venice Film Festival, the buzzing excitement of Carnival in the 10 days before Lent begins.

Venice has a plethora of world-famous museums and artistic treasures. The Basilica di San Marco, with its spectacular Golden Altar; the Bridge of Sighs, where prisoners could enjoy one last glimpse of the beautiful city before entering the dark jail; the Gallerie dell'Accademia, with its collection of art of the 14th-18th centuries; the Peggy Guggenheim Collection of 20th-century art—the list is long. Pick and choose which places you'll visit in-depth, or just skim the surface and soak up the atmosphere.

Venice is set on islands connected by bridges, with the Grand Canal as its main thoroughfare, and traffic moves by boats that range from the traditional gondolas to refuse barges. The absence of automobile noise means you can hear the laughter of children from your window, as well as footsteps seemingly just around the corner. But what makes Venice so unique also challenges its existence. The rising sea levels of global climate change threaten the city, and now, more often than in the past, high tides from the Adriatic Sea can flood whole sections of the city.

Although the resident population in Venice has declined as many young people have moved to the mainland, where real-estate prices and the cost of living are lower, the city continues to draw tourists. In fact, the central areas can be packed, people may be brusque, and prices are high. Even so, Venice remains a treasure to be savored.

Sights—Basilica di San Marco; Piazza San Marco; the Grand Canal by boat or gondola; the islands of Burano, Murano and Torcello; the Lido in fair weather.

Museums—Gallerie dell'Accademia; Museo Correr; the Peggy Guggenheim Collection; the Doge's Palace; Museo Ebraico; Palazzo Fortuny.

Memorable Meals—Ca' d'Oro alla Vedova for cicheti and baked mussels; risotto alla Torcellana at Locanda Cipriani; bigoli in salsa (spaghetti with anchovy and onion sauce, a Venetian specialty) at Trattoria Gatto Nero; fried razor clams at Vini da Gigio.

Late Night—Hanging out in Campo Santa Margherita; people-watching at Piccolo Mondo; strolling the Piazza San Marco under a full moon or on a foggy night; an after-dinner drink at Vineria all'Amarone.

Walks—Crossing the Rialto Bridge; getting lost in Sestiere di San Marco; wandering down Via Garibaldi.

Especially for Kids—Dressing up for Carnival and parading around town; traghetto rides; exploring the prisons and armory of the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace). Venice sprawls across hundreds of low-lying islands in a lagoon in the northern crescent of the Adriatic Sea. A single bridge links it to the mainland city of Mestre. Traffic ends at Piazzale Roma, making the city serenely free of buses, cars and motorcycles—even bicycles are prohibited.

The city's main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal. The islands are also crisscrossed by 177 smaller canals and connected by more than 400 pedestrian bridges. Streets are narrow and winding—some little more than sidewalks between buildings. The city is divided into six sestieri (districts): Cannaregio, San Polo, San Marco, Dorsoduro, Castello and Santa Croce.

A map of the city resembles a labyrinth, but surprisingly, it is not too difficult to find your way to the main attractions. Yellow signs are posted on the buildings at most major intersections, with arrows directing you to Piazzale Roma, Ferrovia (the train station, Santa Lucia), Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge and Piazza San Marco.

Specific addresses, however, can be hard to find, as many streets are so small they aren't on maps. Directories usually list addresses by the name of the sestiere and the number of the building, with no reference to a street. Often the easiest way to find a shop or restaurant is to ask—most people are helpful, and many speak English. Hotel employees and shopkeepers are usually quite knowledgeable about their neighborhoods.

Several islands in the lagoon are also part of the city area or connected to the city by regular public boats. In addition to Giudecca (the large island across from the Zattere) and Lido (where you'll find beaches), the best-known are the glassmaking island of Murano, colorful Burano and the lagoon's original seat of power, Torcello. The airport is on the mainland, north of Mestre.

As invaders swept down from the Alps in the fifth century, the farmers and fisherfolk living along what is now Italy's northeastern coast sought refuge on nearby scrub-covered islands. From the safety of their lagoon in the Adriatic, Venetians began building a powerful trading empire. By the ninth century, religious and political power had moved from Torcello to the island of Rivoaltum, where the Venetian leaders began clearing the land and driving wooden piles into the mud beneath the water—laying the foundations of modern Venice.

The city's merchants and traders (including Marco Polo's relatives) amassed huge fortunes, which were invested in the city. The fortunes built grand palaces and huge churches, and funded precious art collections (some of which still adorn the Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale).

At its peak in the 1400s, the Repubblica Serenissima (the Most Serene Republic, as it was known) ruled the Adriatic and eastern Mediterranean—its democratic-style government served as an international model for centuries. But the republic soon began to decay, weakened by expansion wars, famines, plagues and finally by invading French troops, led by Napoleon in 1797. French control ended when Venice was ceded to the Hapsburg Empire a few years later. In 1866 it switched hands again, joining the Kingdom of Italy.

Today, Venice is the capital of Italy's Veneto region and one of the country's most visited cities. Its watery setting and tourism-based economy bring modern challenges, such as structural erosion caused by motorboat wakes and a steadily decreasing population as younger generations move to less-expensive cities with more job opportunities. The proud Venetians are not ones to give in easily, though, and as measures are being taken to protect this fragile city, more travelers from around the world will have the opportunity to discover the treasures hidden within it.

Location

By 2022, cruise ships will cease docking directly in Venice, instead docking at Maghera on the mainland. Until then, the Venice Cruise Terminal (Terminal Venezia Passeggeri) has two main docking areas: San Basilio pier, in the Giudecca Canal; and the Stazione Marittima, where bigger ships dock. Piazzale Roma, the gateway to Venice, is only a 15-minute walk from the Stazione Marittima terminal. Another option is the Venice People Mover, a cable-operated tram system. During embarking and disembarking hours, a free shuttle bus service runs from the Stazione Marittima to the People Mover. Additionally, the Ailaguna water bus provides transit from the terminal to St. Mark's Square.

San Basilio is just a 15-minute walk from the Gallerie dell'Accademia. It takes more than 30 minutes to walk from the terminal to the Stazione Marittima and is not recommended. Instead, take a water taxi.

Because Stazione Marittima and San Basilio are part of the Terminal Venezia Passeggeri (Venice Cruise Terminal), they have tourist information, duty-free shops, ATM machines, a currency exchange bureau, free Wi-Fi and refreshment facilities. All terminals have water taxis. http://www.vtp.it.

Venice Yacht Pier offers five private yacht berths located near the Stazione Marittima, San Basilio and along the St. Mark's Basin.

Outings include walking or boat tours of San Marco, a few churches and museums, Vivaldi's home and gondola rides. Private tour companies may offer day tours, walking tours, gondola trips, bacaro tours (walking tours of traditional wine bars where Venetian tapas, known as cichetti, are served), excursions to the glass factories and many more. Inquire about pickup from where the cruise ship is docked.

Potpourri

A traditional gondola is 36 ft/11 m long and weighs 1,325 lb/600 kg. They are required by law to be painted black.

In the 16th century, an anonymous writer published an escort guide for visitors that listed the names, addresses, looks, skills and costs of the most beautiful courtesans in Venice. In 1509, about 11,500 working girls are said to have offered their services in Venice, which had a population of 170,000 at the time.

Amaretti (dome-shaped cookies) were first made in Venice during the Renaissance period.

St. Mark is the patron saint of Venice. His symbol of a winged lion holding a book can be seen on many of the older buildings. If the book is open, Venice was at peace when the building was erected; if closed, Venice was at war.

Casanova made the city synonymous with lovers. Once imprisoned in the Doge's Palace, he escaped by fleeing across the rooftops.

City-son Marco Polo is attributed with introducing both pasta and window blinds to Italy from the Far East.

The still-standing "Bridge of the Tits" in San Polo was named after the working girls who displayed themselves on the bridge and in the windows of the nearby houses in a "tempting state of undress" while the light from oil lamps illuminated the spectacle.

In 2010, Giorgia Boscolo became Venice's first female gondolier. It's a lucrative business. In high season, a gondolier can make 5,000 euros a month or more (depending on their singing skills).

Glass production has a 700-year-old tradition in Venice and was once regarded as a state secret. Revealing the secret could have meant the death penalty for the "traitor."

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

The best introduction to Venice is a boat ride on the Grand Canal, and it doesn't really matter whether the vessel is a velvet- cushioned gondola or a utilitarian vaporetto (public water-bus). The S-shaped canal slices the city in half: Lining each side is an astonishing collection of 12th- to 18th-century buildings. Some of the baroque palaces look as elegant as they did when the doges ruled the city, though other architectural gems are crumbling into the murky water.

As you travel along Venice's Grand Canal, you'll also see what life is like in a city without automobiles. Cargo barges ply the narrow waterway along with police- and fireboats. Classic wooden cabin cruisers take tourists to luxury hotels, and skilled gondoliers navigate their sleek black vessels under bridges and around bends. Venice's canals are a visual parade.

Once you have oriented yourself to the waterways, set out on foot. Pick up a map, but expect to get lost—it's an inevitable part of the experience. Streets meander across canals, through campi (squares) and around buildings—often changing names as well as direction. If that isn't confusing enough, some streets are flooded in the winter because of aqua alta—high water.

You'll want to spend most of a day visiting the sites close to the Piazza San Marco. The Doge's Palace offers a fascinating look at how the city's leaders lived and managed the republic, and the colorful religious mosaics at the Basilica di San Marco are some of the most stunning in the world. Take in the view from the top of the Campanile di San Marco if it's a sunny day. From the piazza, it's an easy walk to the Rialto Bridge, where you can browse the shops and enjoy views of the Grand Canal.

Across the Grand Canal from San Marco, via the timber Accademia Bridge, is the Dorsoduro neighborhood, where you'll find two very different museums. The Gallerie dell'Accademia is the city's signature art repository, containing the best works of the prolific Italian Renaissance painters. A few blocks away (but worlds apart) is the Guggenheim Collection, a canal-front palazzo that was fashioned into a modern and avant-garde art gallery by an American heiress. There's a host of other spots to visit—from the Jewish Ghetto and the city's many ornate churches to the islands of Murano and Burano. A moonlit walk along a canal or an early-morning stroll through the winding streets of a secluded residential area can prove just as illuminating as a tour of the city's major attractions.

Note: Venice offers several multipurpose tourist cards, each with unique features. For museums, the Venice Card and the museum passes are the primary options, providing discounts and allowing visitors to skip ticketing lines. The Venice Card provides discounts on most museums, churches, historic sites, performing arts events and more, and can be purchased at all Hello Venezia offices and most APT tourist offices. It remains active for seven days after initial use and costs 28.90 euros adults. It also provides various discounts on public transportation. http://www.venicecard.com.

Alternatively, there are several types of museum passes, such as the Museum Pass and the MUVE Friend Card, that offer entrance to multiple museums for one discounted price. Museum Passes can be purchased at all participating museums or online. http://www.visitmuve.it.

Visitors can also take advantage of the Chorus Pass, a card that gives a single user unlimited entrance to most Venice churches for a period of up to one year. (Visit the website for a complete list of churches.) It's definitely worth the price just to visit the Basilica di San Marco several times. Offered by the Venice Church Association, the card costs 12 euros. A Chorus Pass Family (for two adults and children younger than 18) offers the same plan as the Chorus Pass and is available for 24 euros. Chorus Associazione per le Chiese del Patriarcato di Venezia, San Polo 2986, Venice. Phone 41-275-0462. http://www.chorusvenezia.org.

Casinos

Casino di Venezia-Ca' Vendramin Calergi Plaza Vendramin Calergi, Cannaregio Since 1954, Venice's casino has been housed in the beautiful Palazzo Vendramin on the Grand Canal (just a few minutes' walk from Santa 2040 Lucia station) where the famous German composer Richard Wagner Venice, Italy 30121 once lived, worked on his Parsifal and also died in 1883. A small Phone: 041-529-7111 museum is dedicated to him. Gambling takes place in the sumptuously http://www.casinovenezia.it furnished rooms. You need to be at least 18 years old to enter (valid ID required). Proper attire is requested; men must wear a jacket. Games include French roulette, fair roulette, chemin de fer, midi trente et quarante, blackjack, Caribbean poker, punto banco and slot machines. The entrance fee is 10 euros, but you will be given a free (noncashable) chip worth 10 euros to be used exclusively at the gaming tables or a ticket for the same value to be used on slot machines marked with the "EZ-pay" symbol. Sunday-Friday 11 am-2:45 am, Saturday 11 am-3:15 am. Plaza Vendramin Calergi, Cannaregio 2040, Venice. Phone 41-529- 7111. http://www.casinovenezia.it.

Basilica di San Marco San Marco 328 San Marco's Basilica embodies Venice's historical role as a bridge between East and West. Its five cupolas laid out in a cross pattern are strikingly Byzantine, though details Venice, Italy 30124 both inside and out reflect the Romanesque and Renaissance periods. Under the Phone: 041-270-8311 overlay of mosaics, patterns of colorful marble and innumerable carvings, the main http://www.basilicasanmarco.it architectural influences are Gothic. Have a look at the 13th-century carvings on the central doorways, representing the Labors of the Month. Don't wait for your neck to start aching before you pass up the exterior mosaics and move to the gold-lined interior of the basilica. You'll find this structure filled with artistic decorations that were used to awe the public with the might of the church, as well as teach the stories of the Bible and saints. The mosaics of the Central Dome of the Ascension and the Dome of the Pentecost are particularly stunning. Among the treasures within the basilica are more than 500 columns adorned with sculptures, puzzle-work floors made from Egyptian marble, walls covered with allegorical mosaics, Gothic arches and extravagant bronze lamps. Behind the altar is the Pala d'Oro, a screen of precious stones, gold and enamel objects dating from 976. The Tesoro (treasury) contains items stolen from Constantinople in 1204, including several gem-studded gold and silver caskets. Also located at St. Mark's Museum are tapestries, paintings and the original bronze horses that adorned the church's facade. They were trophies from the Fourth Crusade (the ones over the portal on the Loggia dei Cavalli are copies).

Avoid the crowds by visiting early in the morning or in the evening, although the mosaics will only reveal their full splendor when the church is fully illuminated (approximately Monday-Friday 11:30 am-12:30 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-4 pm, Sunday 2-4 pm). Dress modestly; knees and shoulders should be covered. All large bags must be checked upon entry. Monday-Saturday 9:45 am-5 pm, Sunday 2-4 pm. Entrance to the Basilica is free. Reserve timed tickets ahead of your visit online (and avoid the queue) for 2 euros. San Marco 328, Venice. Phone 41-270-8311. http://www.basilicasanmarco.it.

Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Campo dei Frari, San Polo 3072 Completed in 1443, this large and lofty Gothic brick cathedral, generally Venice, Italy 30125 referred to as the "Frari" (for the friars who once lived there), is one of the city's most important sites. It has the second-highest bell tower in Phone: 41-272-8611 Venice. Art-lovers make a beeline to the high altar with Titian's http://www.basilicadeifrari.it revolutionary Assumption of the Virgin (1518) with the Madonna clad in a flaming red robe, and there are works by Giovanni Bellini, Antonio Rizzo and Donatello as well. The richness of the paintings and sculptures is outstanding, and the works stand in contrast to the simplicity of the interior. Check out the Monk's Choir, which has three- tiered stalls from 1468 carved with puzzle-work bas-reliefs of saints and Venetian city scenes. The church also houses the tombs of the sculptor Canova, the composer Monteverdi and two doges. Frari is part of the Chorus Pass circuit. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 1-6 pm. 3 euros. Campo dei Frari, San Polo 3072, Venice. Phone 41-272-8611. http://www.basilicadeifrari.it.

Basilica Santa Maria della Salute Seminario Patriarcale di Venezia Venetians built the Basilica of Our Lady of Good Health to show their Dorsoduro 1 gratitude to the Virgin Mary for delivering them from a terrible plague— it's hard to miss this massive marble church situated at the end of the Venice, Italy 30123 Grand Canal. The architect Baldassare Longhena dedicated his life to Phone: 041-241-1018 this building, which was completed in 1687 and is the heaviest structure http://www.seminariovenezia.it/informazioni in Venice. On the high altar, you'll see a gorgeous Byzantine icon dedicated to the Virgin. On a minor altar, there's a large painting by Titian, The Pentecost. More of Titian's works can be seen on the ceiling of the sacristy, where you'll also find the work of Jacopo Tintoretto. Every 21 November, for the Feast of the Presentation of the Virgin, people flock to the church, crossing the Grand Canal on a pontoon bridge from Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. Daily 9 am-noon and 3-5:30 pm. Church admission is free; 3 euros to enter the sacristy. Seminario Patriarcale di Venezia Dorsoduro 1, Venice. Phone 41-241-1018. http://www.seminariovenezia.it/informazioni.

Campanile di San Marco Piazza San Marco St. Mark's bell tower, the tallest (322 ft/98 m) structure on the piazza, Venice, Italy 30124 offers magnificent views of the city on a clear day. The present tower was built in 1912, replacing the original that was begun in the ninth Phone: 041-270-8311 century and completed in the 16th century—it tumbled to the ground in http://www.basilicasanmarco.it 1902. Access to the viewing platform is by an internal lift installed in 1962. Daily 9 am-7 pm April-June and October, 9 am-9 pm July- September, 9:30 am-3:45 pm November-March. 8 euros. Piazza San Marco, Venice. Phone 41-270-8311. http://www.basilicasanmarco.it.

Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo Castello 6363 Dedicated to Saints John and Paul, this cavernous Gothic church (more familiarly Venice, Italy 30122 known as San Zanipolo) is one of the largest in Venice. It's often called "the Pantheon Phone: 41-523-5913 of Venice" because of the 25 doges' tombs within. An important stop on the art-history circuit, it houses paintings including Giovanni Bellini's The Polittico di San Vincenzo http://www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it Ferreri and three by Paolo Veronese. The Monument to Doge Pasquale Mocenigo (1481) is a masterpiece by sculptor Pietro Lombardo celebrating the doge's military pursuits. In the square out front stands Andrea Verrocchio's monument to Bartolomeo Colleoni. This famous condottiere (commander of the mercenaries) requested a statue in San Marco as his battle payment. The clever doge agreed, but instead of putting the figure on the piazza, he had it placed in front of the Scuola di San Marco (the San Marco School). Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. 3.50 euros. Castello 6363, Venice. Phone 41-523-5913. http://www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it.

Chiesa della Madonna dell'Orto Opera Madonna dell'Orto Cannaregio This church was originally dedicated to St. Christopher, patron saint of ferrymen, merchants and travelers, and his statue still stands over the 3512 main door. It's an elegantly spare brick Gothic church now dedicated to Venice, Italy 30121 the Madonna of the Garden and with a campanile crowned by an onion- Phone: 41-719-933 shaped cupola. Tintoretto lived just around the corner. His tomb (in a http://www.madonnadellorto.org chapel to the right of the chancel) is marked by a plaque. He graced the church with a terrifying Last Judgment that is on the right wall; note the classical figure of Charon ferrying the souls of the dead. In the painting The Adoration of the Golden Calf on the left wall, the figure carrying the calf, fourth from the left, is said to represent Tintoretto himself. Monday- Friday 10 am-5 pm. 2.50 euros adults. Opera Madonna dell'Orto Cannaregio 3512, Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 41-719-933. http://www.madonnadellorto.org.

Chiesa di San Sebastiano Campo San Sebastiano, Dorsoduro The architecture of the church, built in the early 16th century, is less interesting than the art treasures it shelters, notably three cycles of vivid 1686 and colorful paintings by Paolo Veronese (1528-88) illustrating the Venice, Italy 30125 victory of faith over heresy. Of particular note are the magnificent Phone: 41-275-0462 frescoes (1555-56) which decorate the coffered ceiling of the sacristy http://www.chorusvenezia.org/chiesa- and depict episodes from the Book of Esther. The frescoes on the upper di-san-sebastiano part of the nave show fathers of the church, prophets, and civil and biblical figures, whereas the enormous canvases on the side walls of the chancel illustrate episodes from the life of St. Sebastian. The organ shutters and frontal depict the presentation of Jesus in the temple and the nativity. They date from 1558 to 1559, and all of the frescoes have been restored. Veronese is buried to the left of the presbytery. Monday- Saturday 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 3 euros. Campo San Sebastiano, Dorsoduro 1686, Venice. Phone 41-275-0462. http://www.chorusvenezia.org/chiesa-di-san-sebastiano.

Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli Campo dei Miracoli, Cannaregio This colorful little marble church is tucked away in a picturesque square near the Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Built in 1481-89 by Pietro Venice, Italy 30125 Lombardo, Miracoli houses Nicolo di Pietro's Virgin and Child—a Phone: 41-275-0462 painting believed to have miraculous powers. A favorite among http://www.chorusvenezia.org/en/church- Venetians, Miracoli brings the magnificence of a cathedral down to a of-santa-maria-dei-miracoli more human scale and, with its decorative, geometric patterns of colored marble, is a notable example of the Venetian early-Renaissance style. Monday-Saturday 10 am-4:30 pm. 3 euros. Campo dei Miracoli, Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 41-275-0462. http://www.chorusvenezia.org/en/church-of-santa-maria-dei-miracoli. Palazzo Ducale San Marco 1 The Doge's Palace served as the seat of the government of the Repubblica Serenissima, the Palace of Justice and the residence of the doge. The original palace Venice, Italy 30124 was built in the ninth century; several fires made a complete reconstruction necessary Phone: 41-271-5911 in the 14th century. The Venetian use of geometric designs across the facade arrests http://palazzoducale.visitmuve.it the eye, and the use of arches along the bottom of the building creates a lacelike effect. Its main gate, the Porta della Carta, is the picture of Venetian Gothic architecture. Another masterpiece is the 15th-century marble Scala dei Giganti (Giants' Stairs), designed by Renaissance architect Antonio Rizzo. It was used for ceremonial purposes, including the crowning of the doges. Many rooms are decorated with paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Giovanni Tiepolo and Titian. One wall of the main salon (Sala del Maggior Consiglio) is entirely covered with Tintoretto's enormous Paradiso, one of the largest paintings in the world. A frieze around the upper walls of the room shows the first 76 doges of Venice, with the exception of the decapitated traitor Marin Falier (whose spot is marked by a black flag). Look up to admire the ceiling with panels glorifying the Republic. We think the most beautiful is Veronese's Apotheosis of Venice from 1583. The palace also contains an arresting display of ancient arms. From the main building, you can cross the Bridge of Sighs to the doge's prisons. Do not miss the underadvertised tour of the itinerari segreti (secret passageways), which shows you the offices and Hall of the Chancellery, the State Inquisitor's room, the Torture Chamber (where suspects were interrogated as they hung by their wrists) and the notorious piombi prison cells under the lead roof, from which Casanova made his daring escape in 1755. Yet the full horror awaited prisoners who were confined to the dark, humid pozzi dungeons at ground level, which often flooded. April-October Sunday-Thursday 8:30 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 8:30 am-11 pm; November- March daily 8:30 am-7 pm. 25 euros adults. San Marco 1, Venice. Phone 41-271- 5911. http://palazzoducale.visitmuve.it.

Piazza San Marco Venice, Italy 30124 With three sides of the Piazza lined by dignified palazzos featuring elaborate marble facades and the fourth showcasing San Marco's Basilica with its four bronze horses Phone: 41-271-5911 and crown of Byzantine domes, this is, as Napoleon put it, the "finest drawing room in http://www.visitmuve.it Europe." The northern side is composed of the 16th-century Procuratie Vecchie (the old city administrative offices), and the southern side of the 17th-century Procuratie Nuove (new city administrative offices). Across from the Basilica is Napoleon's 1810 addition, now housing the Museo Correr. Chairs and tables spill into the open plaza, and serenading orchestras perform in front of arched porticos that shelter expensive shops and cafes. Filled with splendid works such as the Campanile and two Syrian pillars (brought to Venice in 1256), the Piazza San Marco is a feast for the eyes. Don't miss the Piazzetta di San Marco in front of the Doge's Palace, which contains the Marciana Library (built in the 1530s) and the two monolithic columns holding symbols of the city, the lion of Saint Mark and Saint Theodore in the act of slaying a dragon; or the Piazzetta dei Leoncini on the other side of the Basilica, with its two small red marble lions. The clock tower (featuring two bronze figures, the Moors, that strike the hour) and its intricate astronomical clock can be visited with a reserved guided tour (12.50 euros), available in English Monday-Wednesday at 10 and 11 am; Thursday-Sunday at 2 and 3 pm. All visitors must be over the age of 6. The clock tower is inaccessible for those with walking difficulties. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, or for those who suffer from claustrophobia, vertigo, heart conditions or asthma. Phone 41-271- 5911. http://www.visitmuve.it.

Ponte dei Sospiri At the head of Riva degli Schiavoni The Bridge of Sighs was aptly named: Prisoners crossed it on their way to meet the state inquisitors. From Ponte di Paglia, an ornate bridge (behind the Doge's Palace), San beside the Doge's Palace, you can look up at the bridge. Dwarfed by the Marco palace and the prisons, this marble structure seems to peer out at the Venice, Italy 30124 open water from the two lonely eyes of its windows. While touring the Doge's Palace, you can walk across the bridge and look out at the canal from within. At the head of Riva degli Schiavoni (behind the Doge's Palace), San Marco, Venice.

Ponte di Rialto Venice, Italy Originally little more than a bunch of boats spanning the Grand Canal, the now-massive Rialto Bridge was built in marble by architect Antonio Da Ponte in 1588-91. Its construction cost 250,000 gold ducats, a breathtaking sum in those days. Halfway down the Grand Canal, it lies midway between the train station and Piazza San Marco. It is by far the most elaborate and memorable of the bridges that cross the Grand Canal. Two rows of tiny shops line the span, and you will find an illuminating view of the very active canal at the top.

Scala Contarini del Bovolo San Marco 4303 Corte Contarini del Contarini's staircase is one of the architectural gems hidden in the Bovolo winding streets of Venice. However, it can only be enjoyed from the street below. Called del Bovolo (the Venetian word for snail), the tower's Venice, Italy exterior spiral staircase is lined by spiraling arched windows that mirror Phone: 041-271-9027 the building's facade in a mixture of early-Renaissance, Byzantine and https://www.gioiellinascostidivenezia.it late-Gothic styles.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco San Polo 3052 One of the most visited sites for art in Venice, this former confraternity building completed in 1549 is renowned for its paintings by Jacopo Venice, Italy 30125 Tintoretto, including his Allegories, Life and Passion of Christ (in the Phone: 41-523-4864 Sala dell'Albergo) with a stunning crucifixion scene, and Ancient and http://www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org New Testament Episodes (on the walls and ceiling of the upper hall) with a striking Temptation of Christ and an equally fascinating Adoration of the Shepherds. Rent a mirror at the entrance to avoid neck pain. Be sure to see Titian's Annunciation near the entrance of the Sala dell'Albergo. Unfortunately, the paintings are not very well-lit. Daily 9:30 am-5:30 pm. 10 euros adults (includes audioguide). San Polo 3052, San Polo, Venice. Phone 41-523-4864. http://www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org.

Visitors going to many museums may want to consider purchasing one of the museum passes. They provide discounts and allow visitors to skip ticketing lines. The Museum Pass (24 euros) is valid for six months, but allows only one admission to each Venice Civic museum. The MUVE Friend Card (45 euros) allows one year of unlimited access to the permanent collections in all Venice civic museums, including those at St. Mark's Square. Unlike the Venezia Unica City Pass Card, museum passes are valid for longer durations than a 24- hour period. The Museum Pass can be purchased at all participating museums or online (http://www.veneziaunica.it); the MUVE Friend Card can be purchased online. http://www.visitmuve.it. Ca' d'Oro Cannaregio 3932 The House of Gold (named for its once-abundant gilt work and Venice, Italy 30126 otherwise colorful facade) houses the Galleria Franchetti. A typical example of an ancient noble palazzo, its wedding-cake facade is a Phone: 41-522-2349 gorgeous display of Gothic architecture. It displays sculptures, bronzes http://www.cadoro.org and paintings by Venetian, Flemish and Dutch artists—including Jacopo Sansovino, Alessandro Vittoria, Vittore Carpaccio, Titian, Andrea Mantegna, Giorgione, Jacopo Tintoretto and Van Dyck. The mosaic floor of the palazzo's androne (the large ground-floor room opening on the canal) is impressive, as are the views from the second- and third- floor marble balconies onto the Grand Canal and fish market. Monday 9 am-2 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-7 pm. 8.50 euros adults. Cannaregio 3932, Venice. Phone 41-522-2349. http://www.cadoro.org.

Ca' Pesaro Santa Croce 2076 This famed baroque palazzo dating from 1628 houses the Museo d'Arte Orientale (with Japanese art from the Edo Period) and the International Venice, Italy 30135 Gallery of Modern Art, which was founded in 1897 as a showcase for Phone: 41-721-127 modern Venetian artists. On permanent display are works by such http://capesaro.visitmuve.it famed artists as Henri Matisse, Gustav Klimt, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Marc Chagall and Joan Miro alongside 19th- and 20th- century Italian artists. Various temporary art exhibitions are also on display. November-March Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 10:30 am-5 pm, Friday and Saturday 10:30 am-7 pm; April-October Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-6 pm. 14 euros. Santa Croce 2076, Venice. Phone 41-721-127. http://capesaro.visitmuve.it.

Ca' Rezzonico Dorsoduro 3136 This museum of art from the 1700s presents many aspects of life in 18th-century Venice. It contains a complete apothecary, a floor Venice, Italy 30123 dedicated to noblewomen, and works of art by Vittore Carpaccio, Phone: 41-241-0100 Giambattista Cima, Jacopo Tintoretto, Pietro Longhi, Lelio Orsi and http://carezzonico.visitmuve.it Giovanni Canaletto. With a ballroom taking up the entire width of the palazzo, frescoes by Giovanni Tiepolo and Francesco Guardi, carved furniture and provocative paintings, the museum offers a glimpse into the life of the wealthy Venetians of a bygone era. Poet Robert Browning's son purchased the palazzo in 1880, and Browning himself lived there from 1888 until his death in late 1889. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-5 pm November-March, 10 am-6 pm April-October. 10 euros adults. Dorsoduro 3136, Venice. Phone 41-241-0100. http://carezzonico.visitmuve.it.

Centro d'Arte Contemporanea di Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2 In June 2009, the Punta della Dogana, the former customs office of the Republic of Venice, was reopened for the 53rd biennial art festival. The Venice, Italy 30124 building sits on a spot of land between the Canal Grande and the Phone: 199-122-122 Canale della Giudecca behind the Santa Maria della Salute church, and https://www.palazzograssi.it was redesigned by the famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who had already transformed the Palazzo Grassi on Canale Grande. It now houses another museum owned by French billionaire and art collector Francois Pinault. Works from Maurizio Cattelan, Jeff Koons, Edward Kienholz, Sigmar Polke, David Hammons and Julie Mehretu are on display, but also many works of lessser-known artists. The building alone is worth a visit. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-7 pm. 15 euros adults. Dorsoduro 2, Venice. Phone 199-122-122 within Italy. https://www.palazzograssi.it.

Fondazione Querini Stampalia Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello This beautifully restored Renaissance palace offers an idea of what life was like for the nobility. A wonderful picture gallery features scenes of 5252 everyday life by Pietro Longhi. Modern leading architect Carlo Scarpa Venice, Italy 30122 has made noteworthy additions. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 14 Phone: 41-271-1411 euros. Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5252, Venice. Phone 41- http://www.querinistampalia.org 271-1411. http://www.querinistampalia.org.

Gallerie dell'Accademia Campo della Carita Venice's premier art museum features one of the most important Venice, Italy 30123 collections of 14th- to 18th-century Venetian paintings. Room 1 has Byzantine and international Gothic art, including the early Venetian Phone: 41-520-0345 painter Paolo Veneziano's sumptuous Coronation of the Virgin (1325). http://www.gallerieaccademia.it/en See the superb, enigmatic landscape of Tempesta by Giorgione— centuries ahead of its time—and several works by Jacopo Bellini, Andrea Mantegna, Jacopo Tintoretto, Titian (with a huge Presentation of the Virgin in the Sala dell'Albero), Paolo Veronese (Feast in the House of Levi) and Giovanni Tiepolo. Note Vittore Carpaccio's Healing of the Madman (circa 1496), which shows the old wooden Rialto Bridge before it collapsed in 1524. Because it's high on many people's lists of places to see, be prepared for a wait and go early to see everything. Monday 8:15 am-2 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 8:15 am-7:15 pm. 12 euros adults. Campo della Carita, Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 41-520-0345. http://www.gallerieaccademia.it/en.

Museo Correr San Marco 52 This rich collection of Venetian art and history includes relics from the Repubblica Serenissima and paintings by Jacopo Bellini, Vittore Venice, Italy 30124 Carpaccio (including his famous works Portrait of a Young Man in a Red Phone: 41-240-5211 Hat and Two Venetian Ladies) and others. Don't miss the marble http://correr.visitmuve.it sculptures by Canova. November-March Sunday-Thursday 10:30 am-5 pm, Friday and Saturday 10:30 am-7 pm; April-October daily 10 am-7 pm. 25 euros adults. San Marco 52, Venice. Phone 41-240-5211. http://correr.visitmuve.it.

Museo della Musica Chiesa di San Maurizio, Campo San Information on Antonio Vivaldi as well as musical instruments from the Maurizio baroque period are on display in a restored church. Music by Vivaldi and other composers can also be purchased. Daily 10 am-7 pm. Free. Venice, Italy 30124 Chiesa di San Maurizio, Campo San Maurizio, San Marco, Venice. Phone: 041-241-1840 Phone 041-241-1840. http://www.interpretiveneziani.com/en/museo- http://www.interpretiveneziani.com/en/museo- della-musica.php. della-musica.php

Museo del Vetro Venice, Italy This museum on Murano celebrates the island's infamous glass artistry and industry. Daily 10 am-5 pm November-March, 10 am-6 pm April- Phone: 41-527-4718 October. 12 euros. Phone 41-527-4718. http://www.visitmuve.it. http://www.visitmuve.it

Museo Ebraico Museo Ebraico di Venezia Cannaregio This museum displays works of art and items related to Jewish religious 2902-B life, such as historic ketuboth (wedding contracts), precious silverware and ritual objects. It also offers guided tours of the ghetto in English, and Venice, Italy 30121 area synagogues and the Jewish cemetery can be visited. June- Phone: 41-715-359 September daily 10 am-7 pm, October-May daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 8 http://www.museoebraico.it euros adults. Museo Ebraico di Venezia Cannaregio 2902-B, Venice. Phone 41-715-359. http://www.museoebraico.it.

Palazzo Fortuny Calle a Fianco Ca'Pesaro 3780 Once owned by the Pesaro family, in the early 1900s this Gothic palace became the atelier of Mariano Fortuny, the Spanish-born artist and Venice, Italy 30126 textile genius whose silk lamps and couture graced homes and figures Phone: 41-520-0995 of European high society. In 1984, inspired by the deceased Maestro http://fortuny.visitmuve.it Fortuny's work, Venetia Studium was founded by a group of designers who create and sell works inspired by Fortuny, including silk lamps, scarves and household decorative items. The impressive palace, tucked down a quiet alleyway near the Sant'Angelo area, is open to the public during temporary exhibits, which are held seasonally. 12 euros. Calle a Fianco Ca'Pesaro 3780, Venice. Phone 41-520-0995. http://fortuny.visitmuve.it.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection 704 Dorsoduro U.S. patron of the arts Peggy Guggenheim lived in this famous home- Venice, Italy 30123 museum, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, for 30 years. In 1979, she Phone: 41-240-5411 opened her collection of 20th-century masterpieces to the public. Almost http://www.guggenheim-venice.it every major modern-art movement is represented, with works by Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky, Rene Magritte, Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Alexander Calder, Jackson Pollock and countless others. The palazzo, facing the Grand Canal, also has an outdoor sculpture garden and hosts temporary art exhibits. Its nearby gift shop is full of modern-art mementos, and a lovely terrace coffee shop and restaurant are on-site. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-6 pm. 15 euros adults. 704 Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 41-240-5411. http://www.guggenheim-venice.it.

Cannaregio Venice, Italy 30125 This is the northern district of Venice that stretches from the Fondamenta Nove to the railway station and along the Grand Canal to the Rialto Bridge. The Fondamenta Nove looks out to the Cimitero on the Isola di St. Michel and to the islands of Murano and Burano beyond. The Strada Nova is the main street of the area, bustling with shops, stalls, restaurants, bars and street theater. Elsewhere, Cannaregio is a tranquil backwater, and at the center of this is the Jewish Ghetto. Venice has the dubious distinction of having the oldest Jewish ghetto in the world, dating from 1516. The Jewish population was required to remain within the ghetto boundaries, adhere to strict curfews and follow many other harsh regulations. Five synagogues, each representing a different ethnic group, were built between the 16th and 17th centuries. You can learn more about the area's history by visiting the Museo Ebraico (Jewish Museum), where you can join a guided tour of the area. At the center of the district, on the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo in Cannaregio, you'll see Arbit Blatas' moving bronze wall-tablet memorializing the victims of the Holocaust. The area also comprises the Ghetto Vecchio and the Ghetto Novissimo. From the train station, take Lista di Spagna over the bridge Ponte delle Guglie and turn left alongside the Canale di Cannaregio; turn right at the third street.

Dorsoduro Venice, Italy This varied neighborhood stretches from just below the busy Piazzale Roma, next to the railway station, to the Dogana, which looks out over the entrance to the Grand Canal. The charming area hosts the broad Zattere along the Canale della Giudecca, perfect for fare una passegiatta, that leisurely and sociable stroll that Italians love. The university is there, as well as several museums. At the center of Dorsoduro is the lively Campo Santa Margherita, full of outdoor cafes and restaurants, news and vegetable stands. With a fish market in the morning and a flower market twice a week, the campo is a microcosm of Venetian life. Parents gather to chat as children play soccer, and students take a break at the popular surrounding bars.

Sestiere di San Marco Venice, Italy This district, in the curve of the Grand Canal from Piazza San Marco to the Rialto Bridge, is where most of the notable sites of Venice are located and, therefore, most of the tourists. It contains the cluster of Piazza San Marco, Basilica di San Marco, Palazzo Ducale and the Bridge of Sighs, as well as the opera house La Fenice and the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The maze of designer-shopping streets of the Frezzeria and San Moise rounds out the picture.

Strada Nuova Venice, Italy This long, wide thoroughfare extends from the Ponte delle Guglie (not far from the train station) to the Santi Apostili Church, and is the main artery of the Cannaregio district. Once a wide canal and a series of tight alleyways, it was filled in and urbanized, section by section, in the early 1800s under Austrian rule, and later under the King of Italy; thus earning its name: "New Street." It is filled with shops, fruit and vegetable stands, typical Venetian snack and wine bars, gelato shops, supermarkets, pharmacies and dozens of trattorias for every budget.

Via Garibaldi Venice, Italy Step into another dimension by taking a twilight stroll down Via Garibaldi. The villagelike feel of this Castello neighborhood is particularly poignant in the evening, when locals go out to catch up on the day's happenings and children play in the street. Don't expect many tourists. After the dinner hour, this part of town shuts down for the night.

Giardini e la Pineta di Sant'Elena Via Garibaldi Commonly known as i giardini (the gardens), this vast space of greenery is Venice's breathing room. Towering trees line up and shade a quiet Venice, Italy garden that reaches from Via Garibaldi to the sea basin, and overlooks the Lido Island. At the far eastern end of Venice in the Castello district, and near the Biennale exhibit area, this thick cluster of green can be seen as far away as St. Mark's piazzetta. A spot to get away from the crowds, jog, meditate, sip a cup of tea or coffee at a shaded cafe or cool off on a hot summer day. Via Garibaldi, Venice.

Giardini Savorgnan Calle Pesaro 427 This pretty little park can be found in the Cannaregio district. It was originally a private garden belonging to the Palazzo Savorgnan and was Venice, Italy created in the 1600s. It has many shady trees and is a nice escape from the busy city life. Calle Pesaro 427, Venice.

San Lazzaro degli Armeni Island Monastery Isola di San Lazzaro degli Armeni A 15-minute vaporetto ride from the San Zaccaria waterbus station, this small private island was originally a leper colony. In 1717 the Republic of Venice, Italy 30126 Venice gifted it to Mkhitar, an Armenian Catholic monk seeking refuge Phone: 41-5260-0104 from persecution by the Ottoman Empire. Since then, it's been the https://www.facebook.com/Isola-di- central home to the Armenian Mekitarian monastic order. The island's San-Lazzaro-degli-Armeni- church and calming cloister, its library and vast collection of ancient volumes and manuscripts, and its garden which provides rose petals for 593327597390719/ the monks' homemade jam, make this a center of primary importance to the Armenian religion, tradition and culture. (The rose petal jam is available in the small gift shop, but its quantities are often limited.) There is a once-daily guided tour at 3:25 pm. 6 euros. Isola di San Lazzaro degli Armeni, Venice. Phone 41-5260-0104. https://www.facebook.com/Isola-di-San-Lazzaro-degli-Armeni- 593327597390719/.

Recreation

With all the museums and art exhibits to cram into your visit, recreation takes a backseat to culture. Joggers will find the most open space in the public park (Giardini Pubblici) in the Castello area. The Lido di Venezia offers a modicum of traditional recreation activities: beaches, tennis courts and golf courses.

A long, sandy island that serves as a buffer from the Adriatic, the Lido was a fashionable European resort in the early 1900s. Some of Venice's most expensive hotels are still there, but the water may not be clean, and the beaches are overcrowded.

Beaches

Lungomare D'Annunzio Piazzale Rava Venetians favor this beach on the Lido. In the summer season, it has a range of bars and restaurants, showers and changing rooms. There is one bar that is open year- Venice, Italy 30126 round. A little farther from the center of the Lido, San Nicolo beach is smaller and Phone: 41-526-0236 slightly cheaper, but has the same range of facilities. There is a bus from Piazzale Ste. http://www.veneziaspiagge.it Maria Elisabetta, and the No. 17 water-bus stop is nearby. At both beaches, you can rent beach huts for the season or for a week; a variety of changing huts by the season, week or day; and lounge chairs and umbrellas. Wi-Fi is also available. Daily late May to mid-September. Piazzale Rava, Venice. Phone 41- 526-0236 or 41-526-1249. http://www.veneziaspiagge.it.

The Hotel Excelsior Beach Lungomare Marconi 41 Lido's most exclusive resort, this historical hotel faces the Adriatic Sea, and its private beach offers spacious white-canvas covered cabanas, Venice, Italy 30126 terry-cloth-covered mattress lounge chairs, hot and cold water beach Phone: 41-526-0201 and pool side showers. Late May to mid-September. For daily or http://www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com seasonal beach reservations, email [email protected]. Lungomare Marconi 41, Venice. Phone 41-526-0201. http://www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com.

Lido on Bike Gran Viale S. Maria Elisabetta 21-B This place rents bicycles to visitors and is conveniently located. Daily 9 am-7 pm March-September. Rentals start at 5 euros per hour. Gran Venice, Italy 30126 Viale S. Maria Elisabetta 21-B, Lido (one block away from the vaporetto Phone: 41-526-8019 stop), Venice. Phone 41-526-8019. http://www.lidoonbike.it. http://www.lidoonbike.it

La Reale Societa Canottieri Bucintoro Dorsoduro 263, Zattere ai Saloni This prestigious club has a long tradition of lagoon rowing and numerous expats among its members. Great waterside location on the Venice, Italy 30123 Zattere. Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday and holidays 8:30 am-1 Phone: 041-523-7933 pm. Entrance fees start at 90 euros; discounts are available for tourists. http://www.bucintoro.org Dorsoduro 263, Zattere ai Saloni, Venice. Phone 41-523-7933. http://www.bucintoro.org.

Venezia Lines V. Dorsoduro 1473-A Offers affordable options for catamaran trips from Venice to locations in Croatia and Slovenia. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Fares range 67 euros-83 euros Venice, Italy 30135 one way, 121 euros-149 euros round-trip. V. Dorsoduro 1473-A, Venice. Phone: 041-847-0903 Phone 41-847-0903. http://www.venezialines.com. http://www.venezialines.com

Circolo del Golf Venezia Strada Vecchia 1 Alberoni This distinctive club, stretching from the Adriatic beach to the Venetian lagoon, has an 18-hole, par-72 course. Private lessons available. Venice, Italy 30126 Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 am-6:30 pm. Strada Vecchia 1 Alberoni, Venice. Phone: 41-731-333 Phone 41-731-333. http://www.circologolfvenezia.it. http://www.circologolfvenezia.it

Tennis Club Dolo Viale dello Sport, Dolo This historic Venetian tennis club hosts summer tournaments. Monday- Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-7 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Viale Venice, Italy 30031 dello Sport, Dolo, Venice. Phone 41-412-970. http://www.tennisdolo.it. Phone: 41-412-970 http://www.tennisdolo.it

Nightlife

If it weren't for the city's university students, Venice's streets would be empty after dinnertime. The city is not known for having a stellar nightlife. Most discos and movie theaters are on the mainland, which is within easy reach via bus or cab. But you aren't completely without options in Venice: A number of small bars and pubs serve food and drink. Called bacari, they are similar to osterie, serving snacks (called cicchetti locally). The Campo dell'Erberia, right on the Grand Canal, is lined with such bacari, as well as wine shops, and is a great area to find a spot for a light meal or after-dinner drink. There are a few clubs to choose from, and many little bars have begun offering small-scale jazz or Latin-music shows. In the summer, these live shows multiply, and places such as Cafe Rosso hold concerts once a week.

Free local publications put out by the Tourist Office contain live-music, event and show schedules. Bars and pubs usually close at 2 am.

If you're visiting during Carnival, expect to find a great deal of life in the city. Kiosks are set up throughout town with brochures explaining when and where the parties are. Organized events are centered in Piazza San Marco and the Arsenale.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Caffe Centrale Via Piscina Frezzeria No. 1659 This hipster and celebrity hangout is upscale enough for the Prada crowd. It is one of the coolest places to drink and relax near Piazza San Venice, Italy 30124 Marco. Leather sofas, mixed drinks, and a recommended restaurant Phone: 041-241-3952 and wine list, too. Daily 7 pm-1 am. Via Piscina Frezzeria No. 1659, San http://www.caffecentralevenezia.com Marco 1659-B, Venice. Phone 41-241-3952. http://www.caffecentralevenezia.com.

Caffe Lavena Piazza San Marco 133-134 Established more than 250 years ago, and once composer Richard Wagner's favorite cafe, this elegant Saint Mark's Square locale serves Venice, Italy 30124 fine cocktails, snacks, ice cream, pastries, tea, coffee and whipped- Phone: 41-522-4070 cream-topped hot chocolate. It is a privileged spot to have a drink and http://www.lavena.it people watch: The scenery is spectacular. Prices are high and the white tuxedoed waiters could smile more. The budget-minded might do as the locals do: Order standing up at the inside bar, where complimentary snacks are laid out along the marble bar to accompany your pre-dinner drink. Daily 9:30 am-midnight. Piazza San Marco 133-134, Venice. Phone 41-522-4070. http://www.lavena.it.

Caffe Rosso Sestiere Dorsoduro 2963 Called Caffe Rosso on account of its striking bright-red frontage, this traditional cafe has small tables that are the last to be taken inside on Venice, Italy 30133 summer evenings. A meeting point for students and artists, it has a lively Phone: 41-528-7998 and slightly bohemian feel. Also a good spot for a midday snack on a http://www.cafferosso.it sunny day or for an early cappuccino. Monday-Saturday 7 am-1 am. Sestiere Dorsoduro 2963, Venice. Phone 41-528-7998. http://www.cafferosso.it.

Cantinone gia Schiavi Fondamenta Nani 992, Dorsoduro At least once, every visitor to Venice should stop into one of the old- fashioned osterie like this one, with its low beams, dark interior and Venice, Italy 30123 affordable prices. It is family-run, friendly, slightly chaotic and so small Phone: 041-523-0034 that most patrons take their wine outside and sit on the steps of the little http://www.cantinaschiavi.com/en/contatti.html Ponte San Trovaso to savor it. Specialties include local wine and cicchette, typical Venetian appetizers. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-8:30 pm. Fondamenta Nani 992, Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 41-523-0034. http://www.cantinaschiavi.com/en/contatti.html.

Devil's Forest Pub Calle dei Stagneri, San Marco 5185 Italy meets England in this popular pub that includes a bagpipe and an authentic red British phone booth. Beer and panini keep the young Venice, Italy 30124 crowds happy. Sometimes live bands entertain the revelers. There's Phone: 41-520-0623 also Sky TV for those who want to watch football, rugby or Formula 1. http://www.devilsforestpub.com Daily 11 am-1 am. Calle dei Stagneri, San Marco 5185, Venice. Phone 41-520-0623. http://www.devilsforestpub.com.

Do Mori San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori One of the oldest bars in Venice, this cozy place dates from 1462. It is a must for anyone looking for the quintessential Venetian wine bar. Small Venice, Italy sandwiches served with a variety of fillings such as cured meats, Phone: 41-522-5401 veggies and cheeses pair perfectly with a small glass of wine. Service is serious business, so don't expect smiles and laughter. Monday- Saturday 8 am-8 pm. San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori, Venice. Phone 41-522-5401.

Imagina Rio Terra Canal This sophisticated, gay-friendly bar and art gallery is located between Campo Santa Margherita and the Ponte dei Pugni. Comfortable chairs Venice, Italy 30100 make it a nice place to rest your feet and have an early-morning Phone: 041-241-0625 cappuccino or a midday spritz (the Venetian cocktail). Monday-Thursday http://www.imaginacafe.it 7 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 7 am-1 pm, Sunday 8 am-9 pm. Rio Terra Canal, Venice. Phone 41-241-0625. http://www.imaginacafe.it.

Skyline Bar Giudecca 810 It may not be the most beautiful bar in town, but the view of Venice at night on the Molino Stucky Hilton's rooftop terrace is reason enough to Venice, Italy 30133 sample the cocktails served there. While you are there, don't forget to Phone: 41-272-3316 visit the rooftop pool. Daily 5 pm-1 am. Giudecca 810, Venice. Phone https://skylinebarvenice.it 41-272-3316. https://skylinebarvenice.it.

The Irish Pub Cannaregio 3847 Formerly The Fiddler's Elbow. The new owners retained the sports- loving, Guinness-drinking ambience but updated the decor and the TVs. Venice, Italy 30121 Live music Friday. Daily 10 am-2 am. Cannaregio 3847, Venice. Phone Phone: 41-990-196 41-990-196. http://www.theirishpubvenezia.com. http://www.theirishpubvenezia.com

Vineria all'Amarone Calle del Luganegher, San Polo 1131 A sleek red clawfoot tub filled with bottles of chilling wine and tucked under the bar adds to this locale's pleasing aesthetic. Veneto's delicious Venice, Italy 30125 red wines and proseccos proudly top the wine list, and cicchetti are the Phone: 41-523-1184 specialty. Try the pasta e fagioli (bean and pasta soup) and a glass of http://www.allamarone.com ruby-red Valpolicella Ripasso. Out-of-towners as well as locals fill the indoor and outdoor seating areas. A private room is available for groups of up to 10. Thursday-Tuesday 10 am-11 pm. Calle del Luganegher, San Polo 1131, Venice. Phone 41-523-1184. http://www.allamarone.com.

VinoVino San Marco 2007-A Located near the Antico Martini restaurant, this wine bar serves more than 200 domestic and imported wines along with some snacks and Venice, Italy 30124 local dishes. Try the sarde in saor (sardines in an onion marinade) or Phone: 041-241-7688 the seafood risotto. Daily 11:30 am-11:30 pm. No credit cards. San http://www.vinovinowinebar.com Marco 2007-A (between La Fenice Opera House and Ponte delle Veste), Venice. Phone 41-241-7688. http://www.vinovinowinebar.com.

Piccolo Mondo Calle Contarini Corfu, Dorsoduro 1056- This tiny disco near the Accademia is one of the few places to dance, short of going to Mestre. It doesn't get lively until after midnight, and A drinks are pricey. Daily 11 pm-4 am. Calle Contarini Corfu, Dorsoduro Venice, Italy 30123 1056-A, Venice. Phone 41-520-0371. http://www.piccolomondo.biz. Phone: 41-520-0371 http://www.piccolomondo.biz

Al Vapore Via Fratelli Bandiera 8, Marghera Popular music bar that presents jazz, rock, blues and other live music acts. Monday 7 am-3 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 7 am-3 pm and 6 pm-1 Venice, Italy am, Friday and Saturday 7 am-2 pm, Sunday 6 pm-1 am. Reservations Phone: 41-930-796 recommended. Cover varies depending on the night and the performer. http://www.alvapore.it/vapore11 Via Fratelli Bandiera 8, Marghera, Venice. Phone 41-930-796. http://www.alvapore.it/vapore11.

Venice Jazz Club Ponte dei Pugni, Dorsoduro 3102 This is the venue of the excellent Venice Jazz Club Quartet, which entertains the small crowds with improvised tributes to American jazz Venice, Italy 30123 legends. Cocktail prices are high, so make your first drink (included in Phone: 041-523-2056 the admission price) the best you can think of. Monday-Wednesday, http://www.venicejazzclub.com Friday and Saturday 9-11 pm. Admission 20 euros. Ponte dei Pugni, Dorsoduro 3102, Venice. Phone 41-523-2056. http://www.venicejazzclub.com.

Performing Arts

The city's performing-arts offerings are extensive. Highlights are Italian opera, Vivaldi's music, Goldoni's theater and Commedia dell'Arte (the traditional theater genre dating from 1500). Opera, concerts and ballet performances take place at the La Fenice Opera House or the Malibran Theater close to Rialto.

Many palazzi and venues such as the Scuola Grande di San Rocco host classical-music concerts. All performances at the Chiesa di San Vidal and Scuola di San Teodoro are geared toward tourists. Tickets are sold at key locations around town by multilingual, costumed sales reps. English-language pieces are rarely performed.

The season at the Teatro Carlo Goldoni is November-May. Avant-garde performances are held at Teatro Fondamenta Nuove. Keep an eye out for the wonderful contemporary music, dance and drama festivals run by the Biennale, the same organization responsible for the annual film festival and two yearly art exhibitions. Phone 41-521-8711. http://www.labiennale.org.

In general, the best way to find out what's on is to read the posters on the walls as you wander around town.

Music

I Musici Veneziani Campo San Salvador Among the first costume groups to dedicate themselves to playing Venetian music, this group usually performs at Scuola Grande di San Venice, Italy 30141 Teodoro. Concerts usually start at 8:30 pm. Campo San Salvador, Phone: 041-521-0294 Venice. Phone 41-521-0294. http://www.imusiciveneziani.com. http://www.imusiciveneziani.com

Interpreti Veneziani Chiesa San Vidal, San Marco 2862-B These musicians play the music of Vivaldi, Galuppi and Albinoni—some of Italy's finest composers—and are among the city's better-known Venice, Italy 30124 performers of 18th-century music. They perform year-round in various Phone: 041-277-0561 locations, but mostly in the San Vidal Church in Campo San Vidal, near http://www.interpretiveneziani.com the Accademia Bridge. Chiesa San Vidal, San Marco 2862-B, Venice. Phone 41-277-0561. http://www.interpretiveneziani.com.

Gran Teatro La Fenice Campo San Fantin The historic La Fenice hosts regular performances. Some of the less- expensive seats have limited visibility of the stage. The staff members Venice, Italy 1965 will show you the seating chart when you're booking. Audiotours and Phone: 41-2424 guided group tours of the theater are also available. Season runs http://www.teatrolafenice.it September through June. Tickets can be purchased online or at the theater box office. Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1965, Venice. Phone 41-2424 for tickets (daily 9 am-6 pm). http://www.teatrolafenice.it.

Teatro a l'Avogaria Dorsoduro 1617 This quaint theater, which could be described as "off, off, off Broadway," is no bigger than a large storage room. Started in 1969 by a group of Venice, Italy 30123 local artists intent on renewing Venice's theatrical scene and influencing Phone: 41-099-1967 the formation of a new generation of actors, today the school continues http://www.teatro-avogaria.it to train talent and hold performances most Tuesday evenings. Dorsoduro 1617, Venice. Phone 41-099-1967. http://www.teatro- avogaria.it.

Teatro Junghans Giudecca 494-A Located in an area that formerly consisted of factories, this theater, known as "Little Cheese Theatre" because of its wedge shape, hosts Venice, Italy 30133 various productions as well as an acting school. Giudecca 494-A, Phone: 41-241-1974 Venice. Phone 41-241-1974. http://www.accademiateatraleveneta.com. http://www.accademiateatraleveneta.com

VeneziaUnica Isola Nova del Tronchetto 21 A citywide agency where you can book tickets for all major events, including opera, concerts and Biennale happenings. Branches are Venice, Italy 30135 located at the airport, at the Piazzale Roma bus terminal, the Santa Phone: 41-2424 Lucia train station and in other key spots in the city. You can also http://www.veneziaunica.it purchase the VeneziaUnica City Pass there, which provides discounts at many performing-arts venues. Most major credit cards. Isola Nova del Tronchetto 21, Venice. Phone 41-2424 (daily 9 am-6 pm). http://www.veneziaunica.it.

Malibran Theater Campiello Malibran 5873 This 17th-century theater hosts opera, ballet and chamber music. Venice, Italy 30131 Campiello Malibran 5873 (near Rialto), Venice. Phone 41-965-1975 (phone line open daily 9 am-6 pm). http://www.teatrolafenice.it. Phone: 41-965-1975 http://www.teatrolafenice.it

Spectator Sports

Regattas take place almost year-round, and these rate as both spectacle and sport. If you are a soccer fan, you might want to check out FBC Unione Venezia (Venice United), which plays in the Lega Pro (the fourth- highest football league in Italy). It's hard to convey just how many shops there are in Venice—the sheer number of establishments is overwhelming. You really don't have to go out of your way to find gifts or souvenirs, at least in the well-traveled areas of town. Deciding what to buy is the bigger problem. Many of the shops carry the same stuff—Murano glass in dizzying variety, Carnival masks, lace (much of which is made outside of Venice—you can tell the real handmade stuff by the astronomical prices), and leather and silk goods ranging from inexpensive to luxurious.

Because you'll see the same merchandise everywhere, it can be difficult to buckle down and actually make your purchases. But you'll kick yourself later if you leave empty-handed. Millefiore glass beads are a good bet in Murano; they're distinctive and hard to find elsewhere—and much more expensive when you do find them.

Lots of high-dollar fashion boutiques are clustered around the area just west of Piazza San Marco. You'll also find plenty of souvenir shops around San Marco, though stores in the Rialto Bridge area may be less expensive. Traveling to the islands of Murano and Burano won't lead to many bargains, but you may find larger selections of glass and imported lace. For unusual art and glass, seek out the smaller shops on Murano, where excellent work is done. And though there are hundreds of small stores and boutiques in Venice, you'll have to travel to the mainland to find a mall.

In Italy, tax is included in the price of the merchandise, and stores are required to post a price for everything being sold. Even in expensive boutiques, there will be a card in the window listing the prices of the items on display. This doesn't mean the prices are inflexible, however. In smaller stores, you will often find that the person waiting on you is the owner who will cut you a deal if it helps make a sale—especially if you pay in cash.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 or 1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm in winter or 4-8 pm in summer. In high season, many places stay open on Sunday and through lunch. Souvenir shops are often open later in the evening and closed on Monday morning.

Bookstores Assouline Bookstore San Marco 1455 For a boutique book-buying experience, check out the Assouline Bookstore, which specializes in gorgeous coffee-table books on subjects Venice, Italy 30124 ranging from fashion and beauty to food and drink. Monday-Saturday 10 Phone: 41-240-6876 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. San Marco 1455 (adjacent to the http://www.assouline.com/boutiques/europe/venice.html Bauer Hotel), Venice. Phone 41-240-6876. http://www.assouline.com/boutiques/europe/venice.html.

Editrice Franco Filippi Castello Casselleria 5284 Original postcards, posters, engravings and books fill the charming shops affiliated with one of the most famous Venetian publishing Venice, Italy 30122 houses. The owner, Franco Filippi, has a real passion for history, art Phone: 41-523-6916 and popular traditions. If you read Italian, check out the guidebook http://libreriaeditricefilippi.myadj.it/v/libreriaeditricefilippi Curiosita Veneziane by Giuseppe Tassini. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am- 7:30 pm. Castello Casselleria 5284, Venice. Phone 41-523-6916. http://libreriaeditricefilippi.myadj.it/v/libreriaeditricefilippi.

Libreria Marco Polo Cannaregio 5886-A, Calle del Teatro Good travel bookstore with both English-language literature and English-language walking guides to wonderful places all over Italy (and Malibran elsewhere). Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. Venice, Italy 30121 Cannaregio 5886-A, Calle del Teatro Malibran, Venice. Phone 41-522- Phone: 41-522-6343 6343. https://www.libreriamarcopolo.com. https://www.libreriamarcopolo.com

Libreria Studium Piazzetta San Marco, San Marco 337- Just off Piazza San Marco, this well-stocked bookshop has guidebooks galore as well as plenty of literature and novels in English. Monday- C Saturday 9 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-6 pm. Most major credit Venice, Italy 30124 cards. Piazzetta San Marco, San Marco 337-C, Venice. Phone 41-522- Phone: 041-522-2382 2382. http://www.libreriastudium.eu. http://www.libreriastudium.eu

Mare di Carta Fondamente dei Tolentini, Santa This shop carries international books on all things nautical, including a Croce 222 selection of locally written and illustrated books on the Venetian lagoon. Located between the train station and Piazzale Roma. Monday-Friday 9 Venice, Italy 30135 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm and 3-7:30 pm. Phone: 41-716-304 Fondamente dei Tolentini, Santa Croce 222, Venice. Phone 41-716- http://www.maredicarta.com 304. http://www.maredicarta.com.

Coin Rialto Cannaregio 5787 This national chain store occupies a multistory Venetian Gothic palazzetto near the Rialto Bridge and stocks clothes, accessories, Venice, Italy furnishings and housewares. Get a taste of what Italians really look for Phone: 041-520-3581 in their everyday shopping. Daily 9:30 am-8:30 pm. Cannaregio 5787, http://www.coin.it Venice. Phone 41-520-3581. http://www.coin.it.

BAC Art Studio Sestiere di San Marco 3451 If you're looking for a memorable Venice scene to take home with you, be sure to stop at the BAC Art Studio. The eclectic gallery carries Venice, Italy 30124 paintings, photographs, engravings, posters and sculptures that capture Phone: 41-241-2716 the unusual beauty of the city's landscapes and its people. It is well- http://www.bacart.com known for mixing classic posters with quirky self-portraits by local artist David Dalla Venezia. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Sestiere di San Marco 3451, Venice. Phone 41-241-2716. http://www.bacart.com.

Bressanello Art Studio Dorsoduro 2835 This elegant little studio near Campo Santa Margherita offers well-priced original photographs, small sculptures and unique paintings by young Venice, Italy local artists that avoid the stereotypes of most Venetian artwork. Phone: 41-724-1080 Particularly strong are the Mondrian-like photographs of Burano by the http://www.fabiobressanellophoto.com gallery owner, Fabio Bressanello. Monday-Saturday 10 am-1 pm and 3- 7:30 pm. Dorsoduro 2835, Dorsoduro 2835-A, Venice. Phone 41-724- 1080. http://www.fabiobressanellophoto.com.

Mercato di Rialto Venice, Italy The little shops lining the Rialto Bridge and surrounding area are usually less expensive than similar places in the San Marco area. When you cross the bridge, walk the inside route—you'll find stands and little shops with jewelry, masks, Murano glass and much more. An interesting side trip is to the nearby fish market. Together with the adjacent Campo Battisti (fruit and vegetable market), the Pescheria is busy in the morning (except Monday). Daily 10 am-7 pm.

San Marco 40 Piazza San Marco Venice hosts a collection of some of the top names in Italian fashion. The area around Piazza San Marco, especially Calle Vallaresso, Via XXII Marzo and Frezzaria, has a Venice, Italy 30030 particularly high number of alta moda shops. Be prepared to pay. https://www.facebook.com/piazzasanmarcovenezia Borsalino. Calle del Loro, San Marco 4822. Phone 41-241-1945. http://www.borsalino.it.

Giorgio Armani. Calle Goldoni, San Marco 4412. Phone 41-520-2413. http://www.giorgioarmani.com.

Gucci. San Marco 2102 and San Marco 258. Phone 41-522-9119. http://www.gucci.com.

Roberto Cavalli. Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1314. Phone 41-529-9020. http://www.robertocavalli.com.

Prada. Salizada San Moise, San Marco 1464-1469. Phone 41-528-3966. http://www.prada.com.

Versace. Campo San Moise, San Marco 1462. Phone 41-520-0057. http://www.versace.com. 40 Piazza San Marco, Venice. https://www.facebook.com/piazzasanmarcovenezia.

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, Ponte This luxury shopping space has shops for high-end fashion, accessories, perfumes, cosmetics, and gourmet food and wine. The di Rialto beautiful building that houses this shopping center has been a mall or Venice, Italy 30124 sorts since the 15th century, when it served as a place of trade for Phone: 41-314-2000 merchants. Even if you're not a shopaholic, go to check out the art http://www.dfs.com/t-fondaco-dei- shows and the sweeping views from the roof. Daily 10 am-9 pm. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, Ponte di Rialto, Venice. Phone 41-314-2000. tedeschi http://www.dfs.com/t-fondaco-dei-tedeschi.

Attombri Sottoportico degli Orefici 65, San Polo Talented young brothers string together unique Byzantine-style necklaces and decorative delights in the old goldsmiths' area near Rialto Venice, Italy Bridge. Sottoportico degli Orefici 65, San Polo, Venice. Phone 41-521- Phone: 041-521-2524 2524. http://www.attombri.com. http://www.attombri.com

Ca' del Sol Castello 4964 This authentic mask-making shop sits on Fondamenta Osmarin, behind the San Zaccaria Church in the Castello district. Before stepping inside Venice, Italy 30122 this magical place, look across the narrow canal in front of you and into Phone: 41-528-5549 the window of its workshop: You'll see a small group of artisans, needle http://www.cadelsolmascherevenezia.com and thread in hand, quietly creating their products. Inside the shop, you'll be surrounded by traditional commedia dell'arte masks and hundreds of bejeweled, gold-leafed and plumed costume ball masks in every color, shape and size. Mask-making workshops for adults and children are held regularly, but must be reserved in advance. Daily 10 am-9 pm. Castello 4964, Venice. Phone 41-528-5549. http://www.cadelsolmascherevenezia.com.

Campiello di Arras Campiello Squelini, Dorsoduro 3235 A cooperative of people with disabilities produces original hand-woven fabrics, garments and bags in lively colors. Monday 9 am-1:30 pm, Venice, Italy Tuesday-Friday 9 am-1:30 pm and 2-6:30 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-2 pm. Phone: 41-522-6460 Campiello Squelini, Dorsoduro 3235, Venice. Phone 41-522-6460. https://arrastessuti.wordpress.com https://arrastessuti.wordpress.com.

Cartavenezia Giudecca 621-F At this shop, you'll find artistic, handmade paper products, from stamped reliefs to paper shoes, as well as unique, high-quality paper for travelers Venice, Italy 30133 wishing to capture their view of Venice in paint or ink. Cartavenezia is Phone: 41-524-1283 open by appointment only. Monday 3:30-7:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 http://www.cartavenezia.it am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm. Giudecca 621-F, Venice. Phone 41-524- 1283. http://www.cartavenezia.it.

David's Shop Cannaregio Campo del Ghetto Nuovo This store carries a wide variety of art objects with Jewish themes, such as millefiori Stars of David and glass menorahs, many made of Murano No. 2895 glass. Sunday-Friday 10 am-6:30 pm. Cannaregio Campo del Ghetto Venice, Italy 30121 Nuovo No. 2895, Venice. Phone 41-275-0418. Phone: 041-275-0418 http://www.davidshop.com. http://www.davidshop.com

Giovanna Zanella 5641 Castello San Lio This shop offers unique and stunning shoes and accessories designer- made by a Venice native. Monday-Saturday 1-8 pm. Most major credit Venice, Italy cards. 5641 Castello San Lio, Venice. Phone 41-523-5500. Phone: 041-523-5500 http://www.giovannazanella.it. http://www.giovannazanella.it

Il Canovaccio Calle delle Bande All the classical Venetian carnival masks made of papier-mache are for sale in this shop, which is proud of its expertise in the application of Venice, Italy 5369-5370 traditional techniques and materials. You'll recognize the important Phone: 41-521-0393 people of the Commedia dell'Arte: There's Colombina, the doctor with https://kartaruga.com/il-canovaccio the long nose, funny Arlecchino or the merchant Pantalone. But keep in mind that Venetian masks have a long history of being worn during promiscuous activities. Calle delle Bande, Venice. Phone 41-521-0393. https://kartaruga.com/il-canovaccio.

L'Isola Calle de le Botteghe, San Marco 2970 The beautifully lighted showroom sells elegant, vibrantly colored Murano glassware by the famous Venetian designers and manufacturers, Carlo Venice, Italy 30124 and Giovanni Moretti, who established their brand name in 1958. Phone: 041-523-1973 Glasses, vases, bowls, plates, decanters, lighting and modern-art pieces http://www.lisola.com all show bold primary colors and minimal design, which is characteristic for the Moretti style. Everything is of the highest quality, with prices to match. Each piece is handmade in limited numbers and signed. It also ships overseas. Daily 10 am-7:30 pm. Calle de le Botteghe, San Marco 2970 (off Campo Santo Stefano), Venice. Phone 41-523-1973. http://www.lisola.com.

Marchini Time San Marco 4741 Choose from classic chocolates, freshly dipped fruits, and delicious cakes and cookies at Venice's most intriguing sweets shop, which also Venice, Italy 30100 serves coffee and drinks. Fragile cookies are prepackaged to travel Phone: 41-241-3087 safely. Daily 7 am-8:30 pm. San Marco 4741, Venice. Phone 41-241- http://www.marchinitime.it 3087. http://www.marchinitime.it.

Massimo Micheluzzi Dorsoduro 1071 Massimo's gorgeous modern glass sculptures and vases put the overwrought products of most Murano glassworks factories to shame. Venice, Italy 30123 His work is rapidly being collected by museums, including the Phone: 41-528-2190 Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Dorsoduro 1071 (just steps https://www.facebook.com/massimo- away from the Ponte delle Maravegie bridge), Venice. Phone 41-528- micheluzzi-2113214245392683 2190. https://www.facebook.com/massimo-micheluzzi- 2113214245392683.

Ottica Vascellari Ruga Rialto, San Polo 1030 A fresco in the cloister of the San Nicholas church in Treviso (not far from Venice) painted by Thomas of Modena between 1348 and 1352 Venice, Italy 30125 shows the earliest image of a pair of glasses, which were worn by Phone: 041-522-9388 Cardinal Hughes of Provence. The image is the symbol of this family http://www.otticavascellari.it business run by Roberto and his sister Cristina Vascellari. Most frames are handmade and show a very individual style, but they are not expensive at all. Your eyes will be professionally checked, and you can usually pick up your glasses the next day. Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm and 3-7:30 pm. Ruga Rialto, San Polo 1030, Venice. Phone 41-522- 9388. http://www.otticavascellari.it.

Paolo Brandolisio Workshop Castello 4725 Forcole, the sculptural oarlocks that are unique to Venetian boats such as gondolas, are works of art as well as utilitarian tools. Paolo Venice, Italy 30122 Brandolisio is one of only four active forcole makers in the world. Phone: 41-522-4155 Castello 4725, Venice. Phone 41-522-4155. https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Local- https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Local-Business/Paolo- Business/Paolo-Brandolisio-bottega- Brandolisio-bottega-166199766775797. 166199766775797

Paolo Olbi Ponte di Ca'Foscari, Dorsoduro 3253- They often call Paolo Olbi the "Gutenberg of the Lagoon." Indeed, he may be the last of his kind in Venice. Tourists who drop by may think of A his place as just another beautiful shop with business cards and Venice, Italy 30123 stationery printed on mold-made paper. But Paolo's hand-bound Phone: 041-523-7655 notebooks in rainbow-colored marbled paper and soft vegetable-tanned http://olbi.atspace.com Tuscan leather, photo albums and pencils with striking patterns are, as Johnny Depp wrote into Paolo's guest book, "the most beautiful books I've ever seen." You can visit Paolo's shop, where he and Beppi, the typesetter, create wood plates of the patterns for the book covers, inspired by old Venetian designs such as the lion or the gryphon, and do the typesetting by hand using old plates and type. In fact, Casanova would have his love letters printed there. Monday-Friday 10:30 am- 12:45 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm. Ponte di Ca'Foscari, Dorsoduro 3253-A, Venice. Phone 41-523-7655. http://olbi.atspace.com.

Rivoaltus Ponte di Rialto, San Polo 11 Handcrafted paper and tooled-leather books from this tiny shop on top of Rialto Bridge make beautiful souvenirs. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Ponte di Venice, Italy 30125 Rialto, San Polo 11, Venice. Phone 41-523-6195. http://www.rivoaltus.it. Phone: 41-523-6195 http://www.rivoaltus.it

Sent Dorsoduro 669 Incredible glass jewelry is created by the amazing Sent sisters, who descend from a centuries-long tradition of glassmakers from Murano. Venice, Italy 30123 Their main Venice showroom is near the Guggenheim Collection at Phone: 041-520-8136 Campo San Vio. Second location at Ponte San Moise, San Marco http://www.marinaesusannasent.com (phone 041-520-4014). Daily 10 am-6:30 pm. Dorsoduro 669, Venice. Phone 41-520-8136. http://www.marinaesusannasent.com.

Tabarro San Marco di Monica Daniele Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2235 Monica Daniele is famous for crafting the tabarro, the historical Venetian cape made of lamb's wool and cashmere. You'll find a wonderfully Venice, Italy 30125 chaotic selection of hats and coats in her shop. Calle del Scaleter, San Phone: 041-524-6242 Polo 2235, Venice. Phone 41-524-6242. http://www.monicadaniele.com. http://www.monicadaniele.com

Venetia Studium Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco In the late 19th century, the Spanish fashion designer and lighting engineer Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) developed a complicated 2425 pleating technique in his palazzo in San Marco to create tiny folds in silk. Venice, Italy 30124 This enabled the production of light, airy clothing that accentuated the Phone: 41-523-6953 natural curves and shape of a woman's body. His famous Delphos http://www.venetiastudium.com dresses inspired by Ancient Greek civilization were worn by such celebrities as Eleanore Duse. But Fortuny also used his methods to create silk lamps, table linens and handkerchiefs. Venetia Studium is a group of designers founded in 1984, which has the exclusive rights to reproduce the stunningly elegant Fortuny lamps. The group also sells sophisticated scarves, shawls, stoles, pillows and purses made of colorful silk and velvet fabrics. The famous pleated Fortuny dresses will max out your credit cards, though. Daily 10 am-7:30 pm. Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2425, Venice. Phone 41-523-6953. http://www.venetiastudium.com.

Vittorio Costantini Calle del Fumo, Cannaregio 5311 Vittorio, born on the island of Burano, is one of the greatest glass masters of Venice. Some of his multicolored insects, iridescent Venice, Italy 30121 butterflies, bugs, birds, fish and colorful flowers have been shown in Phone: 41-522-2265 numerous exhibitions worldwide and even in renowned museums of http://www.vittoriocostantini.com natural science because of their faithful reproduction of nature. Monday- Friday 9:30 am-5:30 pm. Calle del Fumo, Cannaregio 5311 (near Fondamenta Nuove), Venice. Phone 41-522-2265. http://www.vittoriocostantini.com.

Vizio Virtu Castello 5988 A paradise for chocaholics, this place called "Vice-Virtue" offers a mind- blowing selection of hand-crafted chocolates with exotic flavors. Some Venice, Italy 30122 creations are filled with Barolo wine, blueberry, basil, tobacco, ginger or Phone: 041-275-0149 pumpkin. Do drink the iced chocolate in summer—it's wonderfully http://www.viziovirtu.com refreshing. Daily 10 am-7:30 pm. Castello 5988, Venice. Phone 41-275- 0149. http://www.viziovirtu.com.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Burano. The most startling aspect of Burano is the color—every house is painted a bright hue, often two, creating a dazzling rainbow in any direction you look. Once the center of Venice's venerated lace-making activities, Burano sadly now houses an all- but-dead art. You'll see very few older ladies sitting in their doorways working on delicate lace pieces, but you'll know by the price tags when you've found some of their handiwork. Formerly a lace school, the Museo del Merletto at Piazza Galuppi is a museum dedicated to lace-making. If you don't understand what all the fuss is about, stop in and take a look at the exquisite antique pieces on display. Tuesday-Sunday April-October 10 am-6 pm, November-March 10 am-5 pm. Admission is 5 euros. Phone 41-730-034. http://www.visitmuve.it.

The 16th-century Chiesa di San Martino, across the main square from Museo del Merletto, houses a work by Giovanni Tiepolo. A water bus to Burano takes 30 minutes from Murano or up to an hour from the Fondamente Nuove stop in Venice.

To Lido di Venezia. Once one of Europe's top seaside resorts (think Thomas Mann's Death in Venice), the Lido is a shadow of its former self. Some wonderful hotels and resorts remain, as do expanses of sand that still become crowded with locals and tourists alike in the summer. But there are better places for a beach holiday. Fans of art-nouveau architecture will enjoy seeing the villas and hotels of that period in the residential streets, as well as the over-the-top Hungaria Palace Hotel on Gran Viale S. Maria Elisabetta (http://www.hotelhungaria.com). The Lido swarms with glamorous activity during the annual Venice Film Festival in early September. The Lido's Jewish cemetery, which dates from the 14th century, has been restored and can be visited with a guide.

To Murano. You can't escape the glass industry in Venice. Colorful glass souvenirs are sold absolutely everywhere, and among the mountains of kitsch, you'll find some of the best bargains around. Most of the glass workshops were moved to the island of Murano in 1291 to reduce the risk of fire in the city. A visit to the island offers the chance to see master glassblowers at work, as well as to browse store after store of glass items—from gaudy curios to true art forms. When you get off the water bus at Murano (a 10- minute ride from Fondamente Nuove or a 45-minute journey from the San Zaccaria stop near Piazza San Marco), you'll likely be met by a hawker who will lead you to a glassblowing demonstration geared to tourists. The hawker will then take you to a shop but will usually let you go if you're not interested in buying.

If you have any interest at all of buying Murano glass while in Venice, the island is the best place to do so, but do shop around to get a sense of the prices. Resist the street touts (and offers from your hotel) for "free" tours by water taxi to the glass factories of Murano—or if you go, be prepared for heavy pressure to buy from their "special" showrooms. Prices are highly inflated. Be aware that these are scams, and that there is indeed no such thing as a free ride. The island's Museo del Vetro (glass museum) has some interesting displays worth seeing.

To Torcello. The farthest of the lagoon islands on most itineraries, Torcello is by far the most unusual. Home to very few people, it was once the site of Venice's first major settlement. There you'll find a different Venice from that of Piazza San Marco. The main square, Piazza Torcello, is just about the only place to visit and is located down a pleasant path along a canal from the water-bus stop. The piazza is the site of Venice's earliest church, the 11th- and 12th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The Cathedral is noteworthy for its powerful Byzantine mosaics. A newer basilica, a bell tower and an archaeological museum share the piazza, along with a marble chair known as Attila the Hun's throne.

Torcello is a five-minute ride by water bus from Burano, but the relaxing trip from Venice itself can take up to an hour, starting from the Fondamente Nuove. The basilica is open daily 10 am-5 pm. Admission is 5 euros (phone 041-296-0630). The Torcello Museum is also worth seeing; it's a small but excellent archaeology museum. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 8 euros, includes audioguide. Phone 41-730-119.

To Riviera del Brenta. Many wealthy Venetians built impressive villas for use as summer homes along a stretch of land between Venice and Padua that's called the Riviera del Brenta (named after the river that runs through it). Though not all of the villas remain open, those that do are wonderful sites. In the town of Stra, there's the splendid 18th-century Villa Pisani, with frescoes by Giovanni Tiepolo. Others worthy of attention include Villa Barbarigo, Villa Velluti and Palladio's Villa La Malcontenta. (La Malcontenta, ("the unhappy one"), was so dubbed after a Foscari wife accused of marital misconduct was exiled there.) We suggest checking with the tourist office in Venice or with the Regional Institute for the Venetian Villas (http://www.veneto.eu) for opening hours and seasons. Boat tours are available (http://www.ilburchiello.it or http://www.battellidelbrenta.it), or you can reach the area by bus or car. Distances vary according to the villa, but Stra is roughly 20 mi/30 km west of Venice.

To Vicenza. Much of Vicenza bears the mark of the great architect Andrea Palladio, whose masterpieces in town include the beautiful Basilica in Piazza dei Signori (not a church, but a council chamber), the Olympic Theater and many palazzi that line the city's streets. The significance of the architecture and the abundance of examples draw many tourists, but you can also go to enjoy a walk in the historic center of this small, pleasant city. Several of the Veneto's most outstanding villas are in the area right around the city. Vicenza is about 40 mi/65 km west of Venice and is easily reached by train or car.

To Verona. Lying 70 mi/110 km west of Venice in a beautiful part of the country, Verona is blessed and cursed to be remembered as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. This means a huge tourist trade admiring a fake balcony, but the town offers so much more. The Arena, a wonderfully preserved Roman amphitheater built in the first century and one of the largest in existence, is still used as a performing-arts venue. A summer opera performance in the Arena is reason enough to visit Verona. Other points of interest include lovely churches and the town's three main piazzas: Piazza Bra, Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori. The Castelvecchio Museum is also worth a visit—it has paintings by Jacopa Bellini, Vittore Carpaccio, Paolo Veronese, Jacopo Tintoretto and Andrea Mantegna. The church of San Zeno, a 15-minute walk from Castelvecchio, is one of Italy's foremost examples of Italian Romanesque buildings anywhere. For more information, contact the main tourist office (IAT) at Via degli Alpini 9 (near Piazza Bra). Phone 045-806-8680. http://www.tourism.verona.it.

Sightseeing tours are readily available, ranging from walking tours to canal tours by gondola. According to state law, all tours must be given by licensed guides. For more information, visit http://www.guidevenezia.it or http://www.turismovenezia.it. CoopCulture Corso del Popolo 40, Venezia Mestre This firm offers customized individual and group tours of Venice and the Venice, Italy 30172 areas surrounding the city. It can also assist visitors in setting up banquets and other social events in Venice. Corso del Popolo 40, Phone: 41-475-0277 Venezia Mestre, Venice. Phone 41-475-0277. http://www.coopculture.it. http://www.coopculture.it

Gondolieri Travel Cannaregio 4610 Founded by the Daniele Manin Cooperative, which represents a large number of Venice's more than 400 gondoliers, this is the go-to agency Venice, Italy 30121 for arranging gondola tours, boat tours and transfers. Monday-Friday 9 Phone: 41-241-0085 am-6 pm. Cannaregio 4610, Venice. Phone 41-241-0085. http://www.gondolieritravel.com http://www.gondolieritravel.com.

Heliair Venice Nicelli Airport, Via Morandi 9 Treat yourself to a helicopter flight with brilliant views over the lagoon Venice, Italy 30126 and city. Fares start at 130 euros for a memorable 10-minute trip, but longer routes are available. Nicelli Airport, Via Morandi 9, Venice. Phone Phone: 041-526-0215 41-526-0215. http://www.heliairvenice.it. http://www.heliairvenice.it

Kele & Teo Via Querini 100 This company offers guided tours around Venice, as well as to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. Most trips take only a couple of Venice, Italy 30172 hours. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. Prices vary. Via Querini 100, Venice. Phone: 041-520-8722 Phone 41-520-8722. http://www.keleteo.com. http://www.keleteo.com

Venice Events 374 Calle Larga, San Marco This group offers a choice of walking and boat tours around town, as Venice, Italy 30124 well as minibus trips to the countryside and wineries. It can also help to arrange weddings in Venice. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. Prices vary. Phone: 41-523-9979 374 Calle Larga, San Marco, Venice. Phone 41-523-9979. http://www.veniceevents.com http://www.veniceevents.com.

Walks of Italy Via Caio Mario 14A This company offers all kinds of tours, from food and wine tours to after- Venice, Italy 00192 hours visits to St. Mark's. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm. Via Caio Mario 14A, Venice. Phone 69-480-4888. https://www.walksofitaly.com/venice- Phone: 69-480-4888 tours. https://www.walksofitaly.com/venice- tours

DINING

Dining Overview

There are a number of good places to eat in Venice, especially if you're in the market for seafood or regional dishes. In fact, with such an abundance, it may be hard to choose. If you're looking for a break from Italian food, your choices are dramatically decreased. As a general rule, reservations are recommended. Seafood is king of the table in traditional Venetian cuisine. One local delicacy, sarde in saor (fresh sardines, fried and then marinated in onion, vinegar and raisins), gives an idea of the strong and tasty flavors to be found in Venice. Baccala (salt cod) dishes are on many menus, as is crab (variably called granseola, moleche and other names), as well as exotic seafood salads and squid. Risottos of all colors are common.

Don't look for genuine Venetian recipes (or even particularly good food) in restaurants with a menu of the day prominently displayed in four languages. You'll find better meals elsewhere, usually just off the main streets. If you are on a budget (or even if you aren't), follow the locals to a bacaro or osteria (small publike restaurant). The delicious cicchetti (little appetizers often made of fish or meat) and ombre (glasses of wine) are too good to pass up. There are several choices around the Rialto area.

Vegetarians usually don't have problems in Venice, as many pasta dishes, salads and pizzas are made without meat. If you drop by a bacaro, you'll also find a variety of Venetian-style vegetables to choose from. Families will gravitate to pizzerias, which aren't just for children and will probably offer more variety in toppings than you expect. Pizza is a common meal for adults and children alike.

At coffee and pastry shops, as well as bacari, you'll find two prices for every item on the menu—the standing price and the sitting price. Often you will see a sign added to the price list, letting you know that it refers to products consumed at the bar only.

Dining in Venice (and the whole of Italy) has become far more pleasant for nonsmokers, as all restaurants by law have posted "no smoking" signs in their indoor dining rooms.

Restaurants are generally open for lunch 12:30-3 pm and for dinner 7 pm-midnight, and most close one or two days a week.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a dinner for one, not including drinks: $ = less than 30 euros; $$ = 30 euros-40 euros; $$$ = 41 euros-50 euros; $$$$ = more than 50 euros. Tax is legally included in menu prices, but watch out for an extra servizio (service charge) and coperto (cover charge). Tips are automatically included at the more expensive places.

Al Mascaron Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, This beautiful old trattoria is decorated with old photographs and paintings done by friends of the restaurant, but its greatest asset is Gigi, Castello 5225 who has been in charge of this Venetian classic for more than 30 years Venice, Italy and is famous for his heavenly spaghetti alle seppie, in nero (black Phone: 041-522-5995 pasta with ink fish). Also try sepioline (small fried cuttlefish) and if you http://www.osteriamascaron.it happen to be in town in late autumn, do order canocchie (delicious Mediterranean mantis shrimps), which taste most tender and aromatic at that time of the year. Another culinary classic is fegato alla veneziana (liver Venetian style). Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$. No credit cards. Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5225, Venice. Phone 41-522-5995. http://www.osteriamascaron.it.

Antiche Carampane San Polo 1911 Francesco and his mother Piera Bertoluzzi Librai run a fabulous small Venice, Italy 30125 trattoria tucked away in an untouristy corner of Venice (but only a short walk away from Rialto Bridge). It's attended by local fishermen in the Phone: 41-524-0165 know and is definitely proud of its slogan: "No Pizza, No Lasagne, No http://www.antichecarampane.com Menu Turistico." Fish and seafood are freshly bought at the nearby Rialto fish market. Try the fritto misto with moleche (also spelled moeche); those delicious soft-shell crabs are picked straight from the lagoon and are said to be the best in Venice because they are fried without eggs. The spaghetti with crab meat is also recommended, or go for the fiery pasta made with small mussels and tomatoes. The delightful branzino (sea bass) is prepared in a pepperoni crust. Leave room for the heavenly desserts. The wines are also recommended. In summer, you can dine under umbrellas in the small alley. Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. No credit cards. San Polo 1911, Venice. Phone 41-524-0165. http://www.antichecarampane.com.

Bancogiro Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122 Luscious, light meals served in what used to be Venice's first private bank. On the edge of the Rialto market district, this place has divine Venice, Italy outdoor seating on the Grand Canal. No pasta, but fresh fish served Phone: 41-523-2061 with vegetables, such as branzino con arancia e cumino (sea bass with http://www.osteriabancogiro.it orange and cumin) and regional cheeses and sausages. Excellent wines. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-midnight. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122, Venice. Phone 41-523- 2061. http://www.osteriabancogiro.it.

Ca' d'Oro alla Vedova Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 3912 A favorite of locals, Ca' d'Oro alla Vedova is a beautiful example of Venice, Italy simple Venetian cuisine. It's an extremely popular spot for cicchetti and can get chaotic and crowded. Try the freshly grilled squid or the Phone: 41-528-5324 mussels, schie fritte (fried tiny gray lagoon shrimp) or the delicious fegato alla veneziana (liver Venetian style). Monday-Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6:30-10:30 pm; Sunday 6:30- 10:30 pm. $$-$$$. Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 3912 (across Strada Nova from the Ca' d'Oro museum), Venice. Phone 41-528-5324.

Dalla Marisa Fondamenta San Giobbe Canareggio Signora Marisa hails from a dynasty of butchers. Her small place may 652-B not be very comfortable, but you will rub shoulders with locals, gondolieri and the odd tourist lucky enough to find it (try to avoid the "rush hour" Venice, Italy between noon and 1 pm if you arrive without a reservation). Winter is Phone: 41-720-211 high season for meat and fowl. Expect delicacies such as stuffed pheasant, pasta with wild boar sugo or veal ragout. The beef risotto is wonderful. In summer more fish dishes appear. Try marinated sea bass or grated scallops. It's best to go for a set menu, which includes a decent house wine. Sunday-Tuesday noon-2:15 pm, Wednesday- Saturday noon-2:15 pm and 8-11 pm. Closed in August. Reservations highly recommended. $$. No credit cards. Fondamenta San Giobbe Canareggio 652-B (as you walk down the Lista di Spagna from the train station, take the last left before crossing the first bridge; walk past Ponte dei Tre Archi bridge), Venice. Phone 41-720-211.

La Bitta Calle Lunga San Barnaba Dorsoduro This establishment just off Campo San Barnaba serves meat dishes ranging from duck to Tuscan beef—but no seafood. Enjoy the agnolotti 2753-A (big ravioli) filled with seasonal vegetables, such as spring asparagus Venice, Italy with a Taleggio cheese sauce, but leave plenty of room for the divine Phone: 41-523-0531 desserts, rich in chocolate and hazelnut cream. Good wine list. Monday- Saturday 6-10:30 pm. Closed in July. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Calle Lunga San Barnaba Dorsoduro 2753-A, Venice. Phone 41-523-0531.

Le Bistrot de Venise 4685 Calle dei Fabbri Between Campo San Luca and Piazza San Marco, this small restaurant pursues the rediscovery of Venetian cuisine and wines from the Venice, Italy 30124 Renaissance to modern times with a selection of seasonal and regional Phone: 041-523-6651 offerings. Good French and Italian cheeses and wine list. Occasional http://www.bistrotdevenise.com live cabaret or jazz music in the evening, as well as an extensive art and literary program that includes late-afternoon discussions (in Italian) as well as food and wine tastings. Daily noon-3 pm and 7 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 4685 Calle dei Fabbri, Venice. Phone 41-523-6651. http://www.bistrotdevenise.com.

Osteria al Diavolo e l'Acquasanta Calle della Madonna, San Polo 561-B Located on a quiet alleyway steps from the Rialto Bridge, this small osteria has been serving fine Venetian food to locals, and more recently Venice, Italy Phone: 41-277-0307 tourists, for more than 20 years. Owned and run by Silvano, whose gruff way and kind heart respect the tradition of good Venetian food, the real star there is his wife, Anna, who does all the cooking and baking. Try her creamy seafood lasagna or pasta with bottarga—salty fish roe. Don't skip the cheesecake or zaeti biscotti (corn flour and raisin cookies dusted with powdered sugar) accompanied by a glass of sweet dessert wine. Wednesday-Monday 9:30 am-11 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$$. No credit cards. Calle della Madonna, San Polo 561-B, Venice. Phone 41-277-0307.

Osteria Da Alberto Calle Giacinto Gallina Cannaregio Of the many bacari or osterie in the city, we especially love this one. 5401 One reason is that you'll see older Venetian specialties on the menu that are almost impossible to find in other restaurants, such as polenta con Venice, Italy 30121 le seppie in nero (polenta with ink fish in black sauce). These delicacies Phone: 41-523-8153 practically cry out for an ombra (glass of wine). Daily 10:30 am-11 pm. http://www.osteriadaalberto.it Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Giacinto Gallina Cannaregio 5401, Venice. Phone 41-523-8153. http://www.osteriadaalberto.it.

Osteria Oliva Nera Salizada dei Greci 3417/3447, Castello Fresh products prepared as Venetian tradition commands, but with a Venice, Italy contemporary flair. Isabella, the owner and gracious host, comes from a line of restaurateurs, and she oversees her quaint family restaurant with Phone: 41-522-2170 pride and a smile. Located behind the Saint George of the Greeks http://www.olivanera.com church, the menu changes with the seasons, but includes fresh produce, fish and meat, a variety of pasta dishes and risotto, and extra virgin olive oil. Thursday-Tuesday 6:30-10 pm. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Salizada dei Greci 3417/3447, Castello, Venice. Phone 41- 522-2170. http://www.olivanera.com.

Trattoria al Gatto Nero Via Giudecca 88, Burano Located on the island of Burano, this bastion of Buranese tradition was Venice, Italy 30142 born as a simple inn soon after World War II ended. In 1965, Ruggero Bovo, the current owner, began serving fine seafood that the locals Phone: 41-730-120 continue to rave about and visitors dream of returning to. Try the http://www.gattonero.com pappardelle pasta con scampi e ricotta affiumicata (wide egg-noodle pasta with prawns and smoked ricotta cheese) or the delicious zuppa di crostacei (shellfish soup)—a hearty dish that contains just the right dose of chili pepper. When sea bass, sole, shrimp, eel and monkfish are as fresh as they are there, ordering a simple grigliata mista ("mixed grilled") is always a good choice. This island and this restaurant are known for their bussolai biscotti (egg and butter cookies) served with sweet wine. Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-3 pm and 7:30-9 pm, Sunday 12:30-3 pm. Closed first week of July and 15 November-4 December. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Giudecca 88, Burano, Venice. Phone 41-730- 120. http://www.gattonero.com.

Fusion

Lineadombra Ponte dell'Umilta, Dorsoduro 19 Fusion cuisine deeply rooted in local traditions using fresh ingredients from the lagoon and its island farms, such as the outstanding tuna Venice, Italy 30123 tartare or the salt-baked sea bass. The wine list is excellent, though Phone: 41-241-1881 pricey. Unlike most of the city's restaurants, the decor is sleek and http://www.ristorantelineadombra.com minimalist, and you'll need a reservation to score the lone indoor window table. In nice weather, sit on the over-water terrace with views to Giudecca. Daily noon-3 pm and 7-10:15 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ponte dell'Umilta, Dorsoduro 19, Venice. Phone 41-241-1881. http://www.ristorantelineadombra.com.

Luna Sentada Campo San Severo, Castello 5018 Chef Lorenzo Cipolla opened this charming restaurant in a quiet corner of the Castello district. Canalside and intimate, the alfresco dining in Venice, Italy 30122 warmer months and stylish indoor decor and menu tastefully blend the Phone: 41-309-7891 antique with the new. The splendid octopus and avocado salad or the http://www.lunasentada.it marinated beef carpaccio and cucumber salad won't disappoint. Try the bigoi con peoci e capparosoi (large spaghetti-noodle pasta with fresh clams and mussels). The saffron-flavored fish soup or lentil, rosemary and prawn soup are also delicious, and meat lovers will want to try the beef filet in Nebbiolo red-wine sauce. Thursday-Tuesday 12:30-2 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards. Campo San Severo, Castello 5018, Venice. Phone 41-309-7891. http://www.lunasentada.it.

Ai Gondolieri Dorsoduro 366 This restaurant has a menu that's unusual for Venice—no fish. Good for Venice, Italy 30123 meat lovers, but vegetarian dishes are also available. Try the vegetarian garbanzo bean hamburger, or the spaghetti alla carbonara. The tasting Phone: 041-528-6396 menu is also recommended. Wednesday-Monday 12:30-2 pm and 7:30- http://www.aigondolieri.it 10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Dorsoduro 366 (near the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Ponte del Formager), Venice. Phone 41-528-6396. http://www.aigondolieri.it.

Al Nono Risorto Sotoportego Bettina, Santa Croce A few minutes' walk away from Rialto Bridge, the "resurrected grandfather" (actually managed by a young team) caters to young locals 2338 and travelers with a small purse. It serves great inexpensive pizza Venice, Italy 30135 (starting from 8 euros), pasta, huge salads and grilled fish and meat Phone: 41-524-1169 dishes. Lovely garden with a leafy canopy, something hard to find in https://nonorisortovenezia.com Venice. Daily noon-11 pm. Reservations recommended Friday-Sunday. $$. No credit cards. Sotoportego Bettina, Santa Croce 2338, Venice. Phone 41-524-1169. https://nonorisortovenezia.com.

Andri Via Lepanto 21, Lido Popular during the Venice Film Festival, Andri is an old-fashioned Venice, Italy trattoria. It's at its loveliest in the summer, when dining under the quiet pergola is a pleasure. The fritto misto (a selection of fried seafood) is Phone: 41-526-5482 memorable, as is the simple and classic risotto di pesce (seafood https://ristoranteandri.eatbu.com/? risotto). Tuesday-Saturday 6:30-10 pm, Sunday 12:30-10 pm. lang=en Reservations required during the Venice Film Festival. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Lepanto 21, Lido, Venice. Phone 41-526-5482. https://ristoranteandri.eatbu.com/?lang=en.

Do Forni San Marco 468 A Venice standard. Heads of state and ambassadors can often be found dining there. Two of its renowned dishes are capesante alla Casanova Venice, Italy 30122 (a scallop dish with porcini mushrooms) and risotto al Tiziano, but you Phone: 041-523-2148 can't begin a meal any better than with the deceptively simple scallops http://www.doforni.it and shrimp on arugula served with olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. San Marco 468, Venice. Phone 41-523-2148. http://www.doforni.it.

Harry's Bar San Marco 1323 In the past, this place was a haunt of great artists and writers such as Venice, Italy 30124 Orson Welles, Truman Capote and Ernest Hemingway, who mentioned it in his novel Across the River and into the Trees (1950). Arrigo Phone: 41-528-5777 Cipriani's restaurant now welcomes everyone from movie stars to http://cipriani.com tourists. The carpaccio, risotto, pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans), fritto di scampi (fried prawns) and flambeed sweet crespelle (similar to crepes) are tasty. Around 1950, the carpaccio (named after the Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio) was invented in this place: Giuseppe Arrigo Cipriani, who founded the bar in 1931, allegedly prepared it for the Contessa Amalia Nani Mocenigo, who had been told by her doctor to abstain from cooked meat. Harry's Bar is also the birthplace of the Bellini: Ordering this drink is yet another pleasurable way to break the bank in Venice. Daily 10:30 am-11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. San Marco 1323, Venice. Phone 41-528-5777. http://cipriani.com.

Harry's Dolci Sestiere Giudecca 773 The view of the Giudecca Canal from the terrace with (unfortunately) plastic chairs or through the quayside windows is to die for, and "Death Venice, Italy 30133 in Venice" appears to be even sweeter once you learn that this sister of Phone: 41-522-4844 Harry's Bar offers almost the same menu but at much lower prices. This http://www.cipriani.com includes the famous Bellini made with juice of white peaches and Italian Prosecco. It's still not a bargain, but do try the risotto Cipriani and other famous classics such as the carpaccio alla Cipriani or fegato di vitello alla veneziana con polenta (veal liver with polenta). The fabulous dolci include meringata alla crema and triple-layer chocolate cake, and if you look like you can't (or shouldn't) eat it alone, the discreet waiter will bring a second spoon. Daily 11 am-11 pm. Reservations highly recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Sestiere Giudecca 773, Venice. Phone 41-522-4844. http://www.cipriani.com.

La Caravella Via XXII Marzo, San Marco 2399 This restaurant is located in a fashionable shopping area, a few steps from Piazza San Marco, in the Hotel Saturnia. An elegant spot for Venice, Italy 30124 romantic dinners in either the nautical ambience inside or the garden Phone: 041-520-8901 courtyard, but don't expect to meet many Venetians there. Traditional http://www.restaurantlacaravella.com cuisine with a good wine list and delightful staff. Daily noon-4 pm and 7- 11 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via XXII Marzo, San Marco 2399, Venice. Phone 41-520-8901. http://www.restaurantlacaravella.com.

Locanda Cipriani Piazza Santa Fosca 29, Torcello Travel to the tranquil island of Torcello and you'll find this much-extolled Venice, Italy 30142 restaurant, host to royalty and the famous. Immersed in vegetable gardens, history and silence, Locanda Cipriani is an experience to Phone: 41-730-150 savor. Our favorite time to go is in the spring. Try a specialty of Torcello, http://www.locandacipriani.com the delicious risotto alla Torcellana, prepared with fresh vegetables from local gardens. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday noon-3 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-9 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza Santa Fosca 29, Torcello, Venice. Phone 41-730- 150. http://www.locandacipriani.com.

Pizzeria Birraria La Corte Campo San Polo 2168, San Polo Formerly an old brewery, this place has been transformed into a Venice, Italy 30125 modernly furnished pizza restaurant. Popular with a young crowd. Pleasant outdoor seating in summer. Daily 10 am-midnight. $-$$. Most Phone: 041-275-0570 major credit cards. Campo San Polo 2168, San Polo, Venice. Phone 41- http://www.birrarialacorte.it 275-0570. http://www.birrarialacorte.it.

Pizzeria due Colonne Campo Sant'Agostin, San Polo 2343 If you're looking for a place to eat outside in good weather (in winter there is a large heated tent), head to this pizzeria. Sit under the gazebo Venice, Italy 30125 in the picturesque square and drink chilled white wine. Locals seem to Phone: 41-717-338 love the pizza with horse meat. Daily 11 am-midnight. $-$$. No credit cards. Campo Sant'Agostin, San Polo 2343, Venice. Phone 41-717-338.

Trattoria alla Madonna Calle de la Madonna San Polo 594 An old (it's been there for more than half a century) favorite with locals and repeat visitors alike, this place is a little touristy, but the seafood is Venice, Italy 30125 fresh and consistently good. Efficient service. Thursday-Tuesday noon-3 Phone: 41-522-3824 pm and 7-10 pm. Closed in January and for two weeks in August. $$$- http://www.ristoranteallamadonna.com $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle de la Madonna San Polo 594, Venice. Phone 41-522-3824. http://www.ristoranteallamadonna.com.

Vini da Gigio Fondamenta San Felice 3628 This tiny, relaxed, well-known restaurant run by Laura and Paulo Lazzari Venice, Italy 30131 (they are siblings) has excellent traditional food and a nice selection of wines and vegetarian dishes. Specialties include moeche frite (fried Phone: 041-528-5140 crabs), which are available only in winter and early spring. Consider http://www.vinidagigio.com ordering the mixed seafood plate, with succulent scallops (capesante) on the half-shell, baby shrimp on monkfish medallions and carpaccio of the market fish of the day. In autumn, duck, pheasant and rabbit are on the menu and are brought in by hunters who are friends of the restaurant. Paulo will recommend the right wine to go with your meal. Wednesday-Sunday noon-2 pm and 7-10 pm. Reservations highly recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Fondamenta San Felice 3628 (just off Strada Nuova behind the San Felice church), Venice. Phone 41-528-5140. http://www.vinidagigio.com.

Cafes & Tearooms

Caffe Florian Piazza San Marco 56-59 Opened in 1720 in Piazza San Marco, Caffe Florian enjoys the mood of its spectacular setting along with the distinction of hosting leading artists Venice, Italy 30124 and literary figures, a custom that continues with ongoing innovative Phone: 41-520-5641 exhibitions. Whether you choose from the sumptuously decorated http://www.caffeflorian.com interior rooms or the splendor of the piazza, expect to pay some of the highest prices in Venice for even the simplest items. A cappuccino may cost you 9 euros, or even more when a band is playing. If you want to save money, sip your espresso at the counter where it's a lot cheaper. Monday-Thursday 10 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 am-11 pm, Sunday 9 am-9 pm. $$-$$$$. Piazza San Marco 56-59, Venice. Phone 41-520-5641. http://www.caffeflorian.com.

Gelateria Nico Dorsoduro 922 Specializing in ice cream, this cafe is located on the sunny Zattere overlooking the large Giudecca canal. Outdoor seating on a dock-style Venice, Italy 30123 patio over the canal is perfect for a summer afternoon. The chocolate Phone: 41-522-5293 hazelnut and cream is delicious, the portions generous and the prices http://www.gelaterianico.com moderate, considering the glorious setting. Daily 6:45 am-11 pm February-October; Friday-Wednesday November-January. $. Dorsoduro 922, Venice. Phone 41-522-5293. http://www.gelaterianico.com.

Ai Mercanti Calle Dei Fuseri Corte Coppo San This is a good choice for a romantic evening for two. You'll find Marco 4346-A seasonally inspired takes on classic Venetian seafood dishes. The delicate risotto agli scampi e carciofi (risotto with prawns and artichokes) Venice, Italy 30124 is wonderful. Among the best wine cellars in Venice. Menu changes Phone: 41-523-8269 according to season. Monday 7-10 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-3 pm https://www.aimercanti.it and 7-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Dei Fuseri Corte Coppo San Marco 4346-A, Venice. Phone 41-523-8269. https://www.aimercanti.it.

Alle Testiere Calle Del Mondo Novo Castello 5801 It's strictly seafood in this small but refined osteria with only a few tables and 20 seats. Start with antipasto misto di frutti di mare al vapore (mixed Venice, Italy 5801 steamed traditional seafood appetizers), baccala mantecato con polenta Phone: 41-522-7220 bianca di mais Biancoperla (cod fish puree with polenta of Biancoperla http://www.osterialletestiere.it white corn) or cozze in cassopipa (mussels cassopipa style), before you move on to filetti di rombo alla Mediterranea (turbot fillets Mediterranean style) or grilled calamaretti caciaroli (small calamari). The menu with its creative dishes changes frequently. Excellent wines by the glass. Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-9:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Del Mondo Novo Castello 5801, Venice. Phone 41-522-7220. http://www.osterialletestiere.it.

Corte Sconta Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886 It's not easy to find this little trattoria near the church of San Martino and the monumental entrance to the Arsenale, but the search is worth it. Ask Venice, Italy 30122 the charming owner, Lucia Zambon, and she will recommend to start Phone: 041-522-7024 with the antipasti degustazione, a platter full of delicacies that swim or crawl in the lagoon. Then try the cozze ripiene e gratinate (stuffed mussels) and baccala mantecato (pureed salt cod, often served on polenta wedges). In winter you simply must order the fried moleche (small soft-shell crabs). Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-2 pm and 7-9:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886, Venice. Phone 41-522-7024.

Osteria da Fiore Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2202 The cuisine has been called some of the best in the world. Mara and Maurizio Martin's restaurant is in a narrow calle between Campo San Venice, Italy 30125 Polo and Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio. The all-seafood menu is Phone: 41-721-308 composed of reinvented traditional recipes, such as penne alle http://www.dafiore.net capesante (pasta and scallops) with broccoli. Strictly fresh seasonal ingredients are used. We think it's a little overpriced, but there's no doubt the food is delicious. Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7- 10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2202, Venice. Phone 41-721-308. http://www.dafiore.net.

Poste Vecie San Polo 1608 One of the city's oldest eateries, this place is located next to the fish Venice, Italy 30124 market near Rialto and reached by its own little bridge (you may have to kick some empty fish crates out of the way to get there at lunchtime). Phone: 41-721-822 Not surprisingly, seafood is the specialty, including sarde in saor http://www.postevecie.com (sardines in onion sauce) and baccala mantecato (salt cod). Best, though, is the simple grilled, fresh fish from the market. Wednesday- Monday noon-3 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. San Polo 1608, Venice. Phone 41-721- 822. http://www.postevecie.com.

SECURITY Etiquette

Contrary to the relaxed image many have of Italy, the Italian business world emphasizes formality and procedure. Get assistance from a local contact, go through proper channels and always present yourself and your firm as well-polished and accomplished.

Appointments—Having an intermediary is essential. Without someone to make the appropriate contacts, you'll find it hard to get much accomplished. Your go-between can help schedule meetings, which should be set up well in advance. It is difficult—nearly impossible, in fact—to call on a businessperson unannounced. Confirm your meetings a day or two before they're set to take place. Punctuality is expected. Your Italian counterparts may or may not be as prompt: Those in the northern part of the country generally are; those to the south are less so.

Personal Introductions—Greet others with a handshake and a slight nod. Titles are important: Use any professional titles that are supplied on introduction or, better yet, ask for a list of the participants and their official titles in advance of the meeting. Continue to use the title and last name unless you are instructed otherwise. Many Italians have two business cards: One with their business contact information that they use for formal contacts; the other has personal contact information and is used for more social occasions. Do not exchange business cards at social events.

Negotiating—The pace of negotiations is slow, and final decisions are not made by lower-level functionaries. The chain of command in Italian business is both vertical and horizontal, and decision-making can take a long time. Last-minute demands can be made by a person who enters the negotiations late in the game. In fact, this is sometimes used as a negotiating tool. Remain patient and calm at all times.

Business Entertaining—Business dinners are common but will typically involve only a few key players. If you are hosting the dinner, ask your Italian contact whom to invite. If you want to pay, tip the waiter ahead of time and ask that the bill be quietly given to you. If you do not make such arrangements in advance, you will have to ask for the check; it will not be brought to you automatically.

Body Language—Italians typically converse while standing close to one another. They tend to gesture when talking, and handshakes can extend longer than in other cultures.

Gift Giving—Small but high-quality gifts are appropriate in some situations: Ask your intermediary for advice. If you are invited to a home, take flowers or gift-wrapped chocolates. Exercise caution in giving wine: Many Italians are experts; if you're not, ask for advice and make sure what you chose is an excellent vintage.

Conversation—Very little is off-limits in Italian conversation, but avoid being critical of Italian society and culture, even if your host is. Soccer is a passion and an easy topic, as are art, travel and Italian culture. Politics, religion and the less-positive sides of Italy, including Mussolini, World War II and the mafia, are probably better avoided.

In Venice, as in most major tourist cities, the main danger is theft—watch out for pickpockets and purse snatchers. Secure your wallet and bags when visiting crowded sites, including the area near the Rialto Bridge, Piazza San Marco and Ponte della Paglia (in front of the Bridge of Sighs), as well as when traveling on crowded ferries. Places where tourists stop to contemplate the city's beauty are favorite "working areas" of pickpockets. Do not leave backpacks or other bags unattended on boats or in public places.

It is a good idea to have a small purse or wallet with an ATM card and some currency in a securely zippered pocket and keep other cards, passports and so forth out of sight in a money belt or neck wallet hidden under clothing.

Attractive young women may draw stares and unwanted attention. Though this may sometimes be uncomfortable, it's not a threat. Remember that a sharp look or word will almost always deter undesired Romeos.

For police (polizia) assistance, dial 113; you can also contact the military police (carabinieri) by dialing 112.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

No vaccinations are necessary to enter the country, and both food and tap water are safe to consume. Local habit is to drink bottled water, but it isn't a necessity. Sanitation is the same as in any other major European city. The canals are nowhere near as dirty as they once were, but we would still caution against taking a dip. Summertime hazards include mosquito bites and sunstroke, so be prepared or visit a pharmacy for protective creams in both cases.

In case of a medical emergency, dial 118. Having an Italian speaker on hand would be a good idea. Some hotels have English- speaking doctors on call, and you should be able to communicate with doctors in the hospitals, although most aren't fluent in English. Pharmacies, called farmacie, are marked by a red or green cross and are plentiful in the tourist areas of Venice. Even simple drugs, such as aspirin, are available only at pharmacies. Though there is no single 24-hour pharmacy; individual stores stay open late on a rotating basis. Pharmacies post the necessary information on their doors about which locations are open at night, and a list is published in local newspapers as well.

The city hospital Ospedale Civile, located at San Giovanni e Paolo, Castello 6777, has high-quality health care, and its emergency room is open 24 hours (phone 41-529-4111). Ambulances are high-speed launches and can be summoned by phoning 118.

Also, check with your insurance company before departure about travel insurance and reimbursements for medical assistance overseas.

Smoking is prohibited in all enclosed public places, and the ban is surprisingly well-respected.

Venice is not very friendly to visitors with physical disabilities. Only a few bridges have platforms for wheelchairs. Steps are everywhere. Hotels, restaurants and museums are often inaccessible to disabled visitors. Though people are generally kind and helpful, you should plan your trip carefully.

Visitors in wheelchairs should avoid Venice late October-February, when Piazza San Marco and other low-lying areas are often flooded. The temporary walkways are not accessible to wheelchairs. Although the landing stages for all the vaporetti are accessible, these, too, may be unusable when high water makes them unusually slick. Vaporetto access is free to those in wheelchairs. The public toilets near the main sites (such as Piazza San Marco) have special disabled facilities.

The tourist offices at Piazza San Marco, the airport and the railway station have transportation information and maps indicating which areas are more accessible. Also note that at Stazione di Santa Lucia, in front of platform 5, there's an office that offers assistance to the disabled, such as getting in and out of the station and on and off trains. Attendants on the public boats are generally helpful getting disabled passengers on and off. Special water taxis from the airport to Venice are also available—a reservation is required. Phone 41-523-9977. http://www.sanitrans.net.

The helpful Citta per Tutti can assist disabled visitors to Venice. Citta per Tutti, Venice Council Office, Ca' Farsetti, San Marco 4136 (ground floor, URP office). Phone 41-274-8144. For additional information, visit the city of Venice's website. http://www.comune.venezia.it/handicap.

Do dress appropriately and be respectful when visiting churches. The official dress code in all churches requires that your shoulders, knees and midriff must be covered. Women rarely cover their heads upon entering a church anymore, and you will see as many bareheaded locals as tourists. Also remember to turn off cell phones when visiting churches, art galleries and museums.

Do keep your voice low in restaurants, and remember that even though those around you are speaking Italian, they may be perfectly able to overhear and understand what you say in English.

Do learn a few polite words and phrases, such as "please" (per piacere or per favore) and "thank you" (grazie). This simple courtesy will set you apart as having made an effort to be polite. Before beginning a question in English, it is polite to ask first if the person speaks English. The reply will nearly always be "a little" even when the speaker's English is nearly perfect.

Do attempt to pronounce Italian words correctly. Just remember that the letter "c" followed by an "i" or "e" has the English "ch" sound, while a "ch" followed by an "i" or "e" has the English "k" sound. Thus, che citta! (what a town!) is pronounced KAY chee-TAH.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need passports but not visas. All visitors must present proof of sufficient funds and onward passage. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 260,060.

Languages: Italian.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant).

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. 50 Hz.

Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 041, city code;

Currency Exchange

Along with most of Europe, Italy uses the euro. Payment at most hotels, shops and restaurants can be made with credit cards. Where accepted, payment in foreign currency cash will be subject to a hefty fee.

ATMs are easily found in areas frequented by tourists, including the train station, and tend to provide the best exchange rates. Currency-exchange agencies offer decent rates, but their commissions may be high. Most post office branches offer currency- exchange service at a fair commission rate.

Banks are commonly open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1:30 pm and 3:30-4:30 pm. Some banks are also open on Saturday morning (confirm with the individual bank).

The Italian tax on the purchase of goods, called IVA or VAT, is roughly 21% on most items (some items and may have reduced rates of 10% or 4%). It's included in price tags. Look for shops that display a Tax-free for Tourists Service sign on their windows: It may be possible for non-European Union residents to get the 21% back. When you spend a minimum of 154.94 euros (VAT included) in the same shop on a single receipt, ask for the necessary tax-free declaration form (you'll need to show your passport). Generally, shop owners will be quick to use the possible discount as incentive for you to buy and will give you all of the necessary details to receive an easy refund. Show this form at airport customs before you enter the gate and be prepared to show the original receipt and the unused items. Have the customs officer stamp the form. Depending on the refund company, you may receive a cash refund on the spot, or you may have to mail the form and then receive a credit on your credit card.

The Municipality of Venice has a tourist tax for visitors staying overnight, which is levied on the first five consecutive nights of any overnight stay. Tariffs vary according to season, location and to the type of accommodation (5 euros for five-star hotels). Children ages 10-15 pay half the tax fare, whereas children younger than 10 are not charged at all.

Tipping is not obligatory in Venice restaurants and hotels, as service is often included in your bill (check first); however, it is always appreciated. One or two euros can be left as a sign of good will if the service and the restaurant are above average. But in some cases, tips are expected and not tipping might mean unsatisfactory service.

It is customary to tip the hotel porter between 0.50 euros and 1 euro per piece of luggage. At the end of a gondola tour, especially if you had a singer and accordion music, tip the musicians 10%-20% of the trip price. When visiting a small church, a guide may show you around. He or she won't ask for money but will greatly appreciate a donation for the church.

Weather

Venice is nearly always humid. The water that makes the city so unique also keeps the humidity level at about 80%. Keep this in mind, as the temperatures will feel more extreme. December-February, the average temperature is 32-37 F/0-3 C. Fog and wind often roll in with the coldest months. In summer, the humidity can become very uncomfortable. The hottest months are July and August, with average temperatures ranging 86-91 F/30-33 C. In the fall and winter, sometimes even through spring, the water often rises above usual levels and floods many of the streets and squares, usually for a few hours at a time. Called acqua alta, or high water, the locals are used to dealing with it—tall rubber boots become de rigueur.

The city's hot summers and cold winters seem even more extreme because of high humidity levels. In the hottest months (July and August), lightweight cotton clothes are preferable. Be sure to wear a hat and apply insect repellent and sunscreen before venturing out in the heat of the day.

In winter, dress in layers so that you can adjust to different temperatures when you stop at bars, museums and shops. In the coldest months (December-February), a scarf, hat and gloves are suggested, as well as an overcoat. You may also need a pair of waterproof boots in case of high water (acqua alta). Some hotels provide them, but you can buy an inexpensive pair if necessary. Do not, however, wear boots to a business meeting or a concert—take your shoes along in a bag and change before or upon entering the building.

Comfortable shoes are essential in Venice, whether you are there on business or for pleasure. Walking is often the only way to get around the city. The city's business dress code is quite flexible. For men, a suit and tie are always best. There are no rules for women, as long as you dress fashionably (this is Italy, after all). Telephone

The few remaining Italian public phones accept only phone cards, which can be purchased at Tabacchi shops (marked with a "T") or newsstands in varying euro denominations. (You'll have to tear off the perforated corner before inserting the card into a phone for it to work.) Prepaid international phone cards are widely available and a good bargain. The best bet if you want to purchase an international prepaid telephone card is to use it from a stationary phone, such as from your hotel room or from an office.

To make a local call, be sure to dial the city code first (in Venice it's 41), then the number, which is often seven digits but not always. For long-distance calls within Italy, start with the particular city code, which should begin with a 0 (or with a 3 for a cell phone), then the number itself. For international calls, you'll need to know the country code for wherever you're calling. For international directory assistance, dial 176; for Italian directory assistance, dial 1240. To make an international collect call, dial 170.

Almost every Italian uses a cell phone, called a telefonino. GSM 900/1800 phones (and, of course, the newest 4G gadgets) are used in Italy, and coverage is almost 100% in Venice. Roaming is very expensive, so sign up for a prepaid plan in Italy. Once you put in an Italian SIM card, you can buy minutes (ricarica) and only pay 0.10 euros-0.20 euros for calls within Italy. Major providers are TIM (http://www.tim.it), Wind (http://www.wind.it) and Vodafone (http://www.vodafone.it). SIM cards that will work with most unlocked cell phones can also be purchased at Tabacchi stores.

Internet cafes aren't difficult to find in Venice. Watch for internet-access signs in the most unlikely windows. You'll find the greatest number of internet cafes in the university neighborhood of Dorsoduro. Take your passport, as anonymous internet access in Italy is not allowed by law. Most major hotels provide internet access for guests—but often at a price.

Wi-Fi is also available at Marco Polo airport and in the Freccia and Italo lounges at Santa Lucia rail station, as well as in many hotels. There is also a public Wi-Fi network, Cittadinanza Digitale, provided by the Comune di Venezia. The signal is available in Via Garibaldi, most of the major squares and along the Grand Canal. The service costs 5 euros per day or 20 euros for seven days, but only if purchased online in advance. Otherwise, prices start at 8 euros per day. http://www.veneziaunica.it.

Venetian Navigator 2 Calle Stagneri (near Campo S. Internet access and various other services, including webcams, digital camera download and international phone calling. Daily 10 am-7 pm. Salvador), San Marco 5239 Calle Stagneri (near Campo S. Salvador), San Marco 5239, Venice. Venice, Italy 30124 Phone 349-666-8784. http://www.venetiannavigator.com. Phone: 349-666-8784 http://www.venetiannavigator.com

Poste Centrali di Venezia a Rialto Calle delle Acque 5016, San Marco Poste Italiane is the national postal service. Stamps can be purchased Venice, Italy 30124 at the post office and at Tabacchi shops marked by a "T" sign outside. However, it's best to send letters via priority mail from the post office Phone: 41-240-4149 directly. There's another location at Calle Larga de l'Ascension just http://www.poste.it behind the Museo Correr (phone 041-244-6711). Monday-Friday 8:20 am-7:05 pm, Saturday 8:20-1:25 pm. Calle delle Acque 5016, San Marco (behind the San Salvador church), Venice. Phone 41-240-4149. http://www.poste.it.

Three of the most common dailies in Italy are Corriere della Sera (http://www.corriere.it), La Stampa (http://www.lastampa.it) and La Repubblica (http://www.repubblica.it). No single national paper dominates the field; rather, each paper is published in a different major city, has different political leanings and is widely read throughout the country. Il Gazzettino (http://www.gazzettino.it) is your best bet for local news in Venice. Newspapers are easily found at any of the jam-packed magazine stands located around the city. English-language publications, such as The Guardian, Time, The Economist and The New York Times are widely available.

A few of the most popular entertainment guides are A Guest in Venice (http://www.guestinvenice.com), Venezia de Vivere (http://www.veneziadavivere.com) and Venice Magazine (http://www.venicemagazine.it). They each list general information about cultural events, shows, exhibits, festivals and more. You can find them at tourist desks run by the Azienda di Promozione Turistica, in most hotels, at magazine stands and on the counters of many cafes.

Transportation Transportation in Venice means traveling by water. Everything in the city is moved either by boat or on foot. No cars are allowed, and you won't see any bicycles or mopeds, except on the Lido.

Traveling the length of the Grand Canal on a vaporetto, or water bus, from the train station to Piazza San Marco is a lovely way to get a sense of how the city functions. But you can also take a water taxi or gondola. The vaporetti are analogous to city buses in other cities—but cost more than you'd expect. If you are staying for any length of time or plan on taking them a lot, consider one of the money-saving passes available. The water taxis are similar to auto taxis on terra firma. They carry two to four passengers— again, for a higher fee than you'd expect.

Gondolas are the most expensive boating option. But if you don't want to shell out the fees asked for a romantic gondola ride, you can step aboard the gondola's simpler cousin, the traghetto. Used often by Venetians to save time and shoe leather, they are the same type of boat, but their sole purpose is to cross the Grand Canal when there is no bridge nearby. Like the locals, you should stand for the journey, which takes all of three minutes and costs about 2 euros.

Crossing the Grand Canal without backtracking to one of the bridges is the point of the traghetto, but the same thing can be accomplished via vaporetto. Successive stops are on alternate sides of the Grand Canal, and you can travel one stop—or to the next one on the other side—free with a day or multiday pass. For the full fare of 7.50 euros, you can travel the entire length of the Grand Canal, getting on and off at will, for a total of 60 minutes.

Air

Marco Polo (VCE) Viale G Galilei, 30/1 Venice, Italy 30173 Venice Airport Marco Polo (VCE), runs flights through many routes to destinations including intercontinental flights to North America, the Phone: 041-260-6111 Middle East, and Asia. SAVE S.p.A looks after the airport management. http://www.veniceairport.it It is located about 8 kilometers north from Venice, in Tessera, Italy. The airport has one terminal having three floors and 2 runways. For further information, visit the airport's official website veniceairport.com.

Security ENAC(Italian Civil Aviation Authority) manages the safety and security of passengers. 70 check-in points are available at the departure area. Passengers should arrive 2 hours before the scheduled departure time for the check-in process. User-friendly and easy accessible Self Check- in machines are also available inside the airport. All Passengers must pass through security screening located on the first floor. Passengers should contact the travel agency or airline regarding the information on the size and weight restrictions for carry-on and hold baggage. New security rules are introduced by European Union (EU) restricting the amount of liquids that can be taken in hand luggage through airport security checkpoints.

Liquids should be placed in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each or equivalent (e.g. 100 grams). All such containers must be packed in a single transparent, re-sealable plastic bag (of size 18 x 20 cm approximately) with a capacity not exceeding 1 litre.

A dedicated Priority Lane is available for children and their accompanying adults. Passengers should follow the regulations and guidelines for carrying guns, firearms and weapons to and from Venice Airport.

Connecting Transportation The airport is connected by various services like Train, Bus, Rental cars, Car sharing, Water Bus, Motorboat and Taxi. The airport is connected to the nearby railway station of Venice Mestre and to the bus terminal of Piazzale Roma in Venice by scheduled bus services and to several destinations in Venice itself by the Alilaguna water shuttles (Blue, Red and Orange lines) and to Piazza San Marco by the express Gold Line or water taxi. Cooperativa Artigiana Radiotaxi provides taxi services at Venice Marco Polo Airport. GoOpti is a Chauffeur Service specialized in road passenger transportation from and to the airports. GoOpti provides high quality transfer services within everyone's reach, increasing and facilitating mobility in a cost-effective and environmentally friendly way. GoOpti guarantees transfers, even if there is just one person travelling at any time, with 24h/7dayssupport in case of necessity. The service provider carries more than 400,000 passengers and do more than 50,000 transfer' services, collaborating with more than 220 partners. Car rental companies are also operating at the airport. Marco Polo Airport participates in the Venice Car Sharing scheme. A car sharing pick-up and drop-off point with 5 parking bays is located in the forecourt in front of the Departures hall of the terminal building.

Treviso/Sant'Angelo (TSF) Venice, Italy

Treviso Antonio Canova Airport is 1.8 miles west-southwest of Treviso. The airport is well connected by bus and train services. The airport code is TSF. The airlines that operate from TSF airport are Wizz Air, Ryan Air, Pobeda Airlines and Laudamotion. There are daily and seasonal flights to various destinations from TSF Airport. The airport is located near Venice canals. Amenities such as restaurants, bars, ATM, toilets, post box, internet points, charging stations are located on the ground and the first floor of the airport. There are also a host of other services situated in either of the floors. A detailed terminal map is provided at the TSF Airport website under the page "At the Airport".

Security AERTRE information desk provides all information about the boarding process in the TSF Airport. The check-in area is on the first floor of the Departure Hall in the terminal building. The boarding pass must be produced at the security screening and while boarding.

Passengers should report for check-in an hour before departure for domestic flight and two hours prior to international departures. Regarding the weight, size, and number of luggage that shall be carried, passengers should check their airline's website or the ticket. Baggage exceeding the permitted size and weight limits will be charged extra. Customers shall check-in their baggage online or at the self-check-in desk to save time standing in the long queues. Hand baggage will be screened at the airport for prohibited items on the X-ray conveyor. Separate trays are provided for all electronic devices and items with metals such as belts. Passengers may be asked to walk through metal detectors if required. Containers containing liquids, gels, and aerosols should be of capacity 100 ml. The containers should be placed inside a clear resealable plastic bag. Baby food, special dietary food, and medicines with prescription are exempted from this capacity restriction. Before securing the baggage with padlock or wraps or plastic wrap- around, passengers are advised to check with the airlines to ensure whether the baggage will be opened for security screening further.

For children traveling alone, please check the airline's website as each airline's rules and restrictions are different. The Italian State Police or Foreign Ministry website viaggiaresicuri.it, provides more information about valid identity documents for unaccompanied children. For stress- free travel, travelers should have clear and valid travel documents. Border Police will check all passengers arriving in Italy from non- European Union destination at the Treviso Antonio Canova Airport. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs website provides all information about the conditions to enter Italy. Passengers traveling abroad to a non- European Union destination must have a valid passport. Viaggiare Sicuri, a section of the website maintained by the Italian Foreign Ministry's Crisis Unit provides more information about the travel documents that must be carried. For more information on security check and documents that should be carried, please visit the Italian Civil Aviation Authority - Enac website. Customs office is located at the right of the ground floor terminal. Extra-Schengen passports control is located on the first floor of the terminal.

Connecting Transportation There are many transport options to choose from traveling to and from the Treviso Antonio Canova Airport. The nearest railway station is Treviso and Venezia Mestre railway stations. Passengers and visitors coming from and to the airport can take shuttle bus or taxi. The passengers can board the bus to the railway station from Via Noalese which is right of the airport exit. The 'ACTT Line 6' takes the passenger to and from Treviso Station. ATVO service and Barzi Service bus takes the passenger to and from Venezia Mestre railway stations. TSF airport visitors and passengers can reach Venice railway station using ATVO Service. Tickets for the bus ride shall be bought from Arrival Hall on the second floor or on the bus. The taxis from the airport is operated by Radio Taxi Treviso. Sixt, WinRent, auto Servizi maggiore, Avis, Autovia, Hertz, Locauto Rent, Autoeuropa, and Europcar Italia are the car rental services with offices situated at the Arrivals Hall on the second floor. Customers who are using car rental service must report to the car rental offices at the TSF Airport, even if it is pre-booked. In addition to all the above transportation options, there is a Chauffeur Service to and from the airport. The services are called GoOpti. Passengers and visitors, planning to use GoOpti services must book online through www.GoOpti.com. They offer different transfer options to suit their customer's preferences.

A car won't do you much good in Venice itself, but if you're driving to the city, you'll need to know where to park your vehicle. The last town on the mainland before the 3-mi/5-km bridge to Venice is Mestre. You may want to consider leaving your car there if you're visiting in high season, as parking facilities in Venice have been known to fill up. There's a garage near the Mestre train station (15 euros for 24 hours). More convenient to the city are the parking garages and areas in Piazzale Roma and on the island of Tronchetto. The white 2,200-space public Autorimessa Comunale charges 26 euros-29 euros for 24 hours, with cheaper rates available online (phone 41-272-7211; http://www.avmspa.it). The private Garage San Marco costs 30 euros for 24 hours (phone 41- 523-2213; http://www.garagesanmarco.it). You need to leave your keys with them. Note that some parking lots have a one-hour minimum time limit.

Cars are allowed on the Lido, so you can take your ride there via the car ferry service from Tronchetto. Prices to park run 16 euros- 26 euros per day. Pay for the parking when you arrive at one of the ticket machines. Another less expensive option is to park in one of the private long-term lots near Marco Polo Airport and use the airport bus to the city.

The legal driving age in Italy is 18. To rent a car, you must be at least 21 years old and have held your driver's license for at least two years; all drivers of rentals must have held their license for at least one year. Rental car drivers younger than age 25 may incur a surcharge. Having an International Drivers License is also strongly recommended when renting a vehicle in Italy.

It is illegal to use a cell phone while driving; however, hands-free devices are allowed.

Boats are everywhere, and some refer to the water buses (vaporetti) as ferries. (We consider them public transportation.) There is a proper car-ferry service from the island of Tronchetto to the Lido, though. Depending on the size of your car, the crossing can cost 13 euros-26 euros. We suggest avoiding the ferry on Tuesday—the weekly market in the streets of the Lido makes it too much of a hassle. There are also traditional ferries to a number of Mediterranean ports in Greece, Turkey and Croatia. In the summer, faster hydrofoil services run to the Dalmatian and Istrian coasts. The main form of public transportation in Venice proper is the vaporetto (water bus). If you will be traveling extensively, you might want to purchase an ACTV Public Transport Card. It can be purchased at all Azienda Consorzio Transporti Veneziano (ACTV) ticketing booths or online. The card allows unrestricted use of all public transport services in Venice for a period of either 24 hours (20 euros), 48 hours (30 euros), 72 hours (40 euros) or 7 days (60 euros). http://www.veneziaunica.it.

The water buses operate on several lines that are numbered and color-coded on maps that are available and posted at every stop. Some lines run in one direction only, but most go in both directions. The water buses are most useful when you need to get from one end of town to the other. They also stop regularly at the islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello, Giudecca and the Lido.

Venice is a popular stop on the cruise-ship circuit. There are multiple port facilities, the largest centered on the area below the train station. You'll also see smaller ships docked at the quay at the east end of Riva degli Schiavoni, a 20-minute walk from Piazza San Marco. Conventional taxis are only of use to get back and forth to the mainland or the airport. There are stands in Piazzale Roma and at the airport. It isn't easy to find one to hail on the mainland streets, so you're better off phoning a reputable taxi company to arrange a pickup. If you need one early in the morning, book it the night before. Beware of unlicensed cabs; look for the usual sign and meter. Radio Taxi offers four-wheeled service on the mainland. Phone 41-5964.

Venice water taxis are snazzy little boats. The official fare starts at 15 euros, with the meter adding about 1 euro for every two minutes. It costs roughly 60 euros to take a water taxi from the train station to Piazza San Marco. There are extra fees tacked on for various things, such as holiday and night surcharges, which all add up to a very expensive ride but may be worth it if you are traveling with a larger group with unwieldy baggage. Also, booking one through a hotel is usually more expensive, because the hotel will get a commission. Among those offering water-taxi service is Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia. Phone 41-522-2303. http://www.motoscafivenezia.it.

Arriving in Venice by train is more remarkable than it is in most cities, especially for first timers. Setting foot outside the station, you are immediately confronted by the beauty of the Grand Canal. It's breathtaking on a sunny day. From there you can walk to Piazza San Marco in 40 minutes. The vaporetto docks and ticket booths are just outside the station. For vaporetto No. 2 (fast boat down Grand Canal), turn left. For vaporetto No. 1 (slow boat down Grand Canal), turn right. Venezia Santa Lucia Venice, Italy The Venice train station is called Venezia Santa Lucia (S. Lucia), though it's also 41-713-719 referred to as the ferrovia, which simply means railway. Don't get off the train at Phone: Venezia Mestre, the station on the mainland just before Venice itself, unless you intend to. Some trains do terminate at the Venezia Mestre station, in which case you'll have to get on another train for one stop. Connections between the Mestre and Venice stations are frequent (1.25 euros if you don't have a train ticket to Venice already). For rail information, phone 6-6847-5475 or 892-021. http://www.trenitalia.it. The rail station links Venice with other Italian cities as well as major European cities. You needn't arrive by train to take advantage of a useful service at the station. The Cooperativa Trasbagagli operates a porter stand, which will transport your luggage to your hotel for a fee. Depending on your hotel's location, it would be wise to consider it as an option. If you are laden down with bags, navigating your own way over bridges and canals can be daunting. Phone 41-713-719.

Like so many other tourists, you may find the urge to be ferried around in a gondola irresistible. It's one of those things to be done in a lifetime. Just think of paying through the nose as part of the experience. The main gondola stand is at Bacino Orseolo, near Piazza San Marco. Gondoliers are required to remain in particular areas, so if there is a certain area such as the Grand Canal or out front of Piazza San Marco that you'd like to traverse, choose a gondolier in that zone.

Gondola fees depend primarily on the duration of the trip, and bargaining does occur. Fees vary according to time of day and start at 80 euros for the first 40 minutes, for up to six people, and about 40 euros for each additional 20 minutes. It goes up to 100 euros 7 pm-8 am, 50 euros for each additional 20 minutes. For better or worse, you won't be automatically serenaded. That's an extra fee and comes with group trips. For More Information

Recommended Reading

Strolling Through Venice: The Definitive Walking Guidebook to "La Serenissima" by John Freely (Macmillan).

Secret Venice by Thomas Jonglez and Paola Zoffoli (Jonglez Publishing).

A Guide to the Eateries of Venice by Michela Scibilia (Grafiche Vianello Srl).

Venice by Jan Morris (Faber and Faber).

Venice From the Ground Up by James H.S. McGregor (Harvard University Press).

Venice (Art & Architecture) by Marion Kaminski (H.F. Ullmann).

Venice and Food by Sally Spector (Arsenale).

VeneziaUnica Venice, Italy The official tourism office of the city of Venice, it sells tickets for city 41-2424 transportation, museums, parking, Wi-Fi and major events online and at Phone: offices and ticket points located throughout Venice, including at the http://www.veneziaunica.it island of Tronchetto, the train station and Piazzale Roma. Phone 41- 2424 daily 9 am-6 pm. http://www.veneziaunica.it.

EVENTS

Calendar

Two of the biggest happenings in Venice are Carnival before the beginning of Lent and the Venice Biennale, which features art exhibitions and performances. Both events fill the city to capacity, so you should take note of the dates and plan ahead.

The rest of the calendar is filled with music and opera performances in the city's many churches and theaters, in addition to art exhibits at museums. Regattas and other canal- or lagoon-based activities are also popular.

For detailed information about upcoming events in the Venice area, contact the Tourist Board of Venice. Phone 41-529-8711. http://www.turismovenezia.it.

To call any of the numbers listed in this calendar from outside Italy, you must first dial your country's international access code, then Italy's country code, 39, and Venice's city code, 41. Even if you're calling from within Venice, you must dial the city code, 41, before the rest of the (four- to eight-digit) phone number. We've included the city codes in the phone numbers listed in this calendar. Numbers in other cities outside of Venice and toll-free numbers are listed as they would be dialed from within Venice.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.