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Introducing Venice

Introducing Venice

INTRODUCING

A fleet of gondoliers, among others, navigates the riches of the Grand (p125)

From the look of it, you'd think Venice spent all its time primping. Bask in the glory of pal- aces, but make no mistake: this city's a powerhouse. You may have heard that Venice is an engineering marvel, with marble cathedrals built atop ancient posts driven deep into the barene (mud banks) – but the truth is that this city is built on sheer nerve. Reasonable people might blanch at water approaching their doorsteps and flee at the first sign of acqua alta (high tide). But reason can’t compare to Venetian resolve. Instead of bailing out, Venetians have flooded the world with voluptuous Venetian-red paintings and wines, music, Marco Polo spice-route flavours, and bohemian-chic fashion. And they’re not done yet. VENICE LIFE With the world’s most artistic masterpieces per square kilometre, you’d think the city would take it easy, maybe rest on its laurels. But Venice refuses to retire from the inspiration business. In narrow calli (alleyways), you’ll glimpse artisans hammering out shoes crested like lagoon birds, cooks whipping up four-star dishes on single-burner hotplates, and musicians lugging 18th-century cellos to riveting concerts played with punk-rock bravado. As you can see, all those 19th-century Romantics got it wrong. Venice is not destined for genteel decay. Billion- aire benefactors and cutting-edge biennales are filling up those ancient palazzi (palaces) with restored masterpieces and eyebrow-raising contemporary art and architecture, and back-alley galleries and artisan showrooms are springing up in their shadows. Your timing couldn’t be better: the people who made walking on water look easy are already well into their next act. 2 But don’t go expecting to have the city to yourself. Even in the foot-stomping chill of January, Venice has its admirers. The upside is that you’ll keep fascinating company here. More accessible than ever and surprisingly affordable given its singularity, Venice remains a self-selecting city: it takes a certain imagination to forgo the convenience of cars and highways for slow boats and crooked calli. Sculptors, harpsichordists, sushi chefs and dreamers passing as accountants might end up bumping elbows over heaping plates of risotto di seppie (squid risotto) along scuffed wooden tables in authentic osterie (pub-restaurants). Judging by the crowd, you might think the Art Biennale must be happening – but no, that’s just an average Wednesday night in Venice. Venice is best when caught between acts, after the day trippers rush off to beat afternoon traffic, and before cruise ships dump dazed newcomers off in with three hours to see all of Venice before lunch. Those visitors may never get to see Venice in its precious downtime, when gondoliers warm up their vocal chords with scorching espresso on their way to work, and mosaic artisans converge at the bar for tesserae shoptalk over a spritz (prosecco-based drink). Neither rain nor high tides can dampen high spirits at Venice’s twice-daily happy hours, when even the most orthodox fashionistas will gamely pull on stivali di gomma (rubber boots) over their stylish artisan-made shoes, and slosh out to the bar to get first dibs on cicheti (traditional bar snacks). How come ‘happy hour’ lasts five hours a day, and why not close at the first high tide signal? ‘There’s only one Venice’, explains one host as he pours another glass of fizzy prosecco well past the mark for un ombra (half-glass). ‘We might as well enjoy it.’ If you ever did have Venice to yourself, you’d soon be hopelessly lost. When streets suddenly dead-end into or you wind up on a ferry with the right number heading in entirely the wrong direction, Venice can seem like a very tricky live-action video game, and you’re the hapless character lost in the maze. Once you’ve found someone who knows the way and points you toward the cor- rect dock, that’s it: you’ve passed your Venice initiation. But do Venetians a favour and consult the signs, your map or a fellow traveller first. If each day tripper asked one local for directions to San Marco, every Venetian would hear the question repeated some 333 times a year. Venetians enjoy searching questions – but try asking something that stirs Venetian passions. What’s freshest right now at the markets, and how should it be cooked? Who should win the Golden Lion at this year’s Venice Film Festival? Any thoughts about feeding pigeons in Piazza San Marco? The most sensitive local subject is still Mose (Modulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico), the con- troversial flood barrier system currently under construction. But the combined effects of industrial pollution and global warming are also taken very seriously in this fragile lagoon ecosystem, and any effort you make to help mitigate the impact of travel – stay longer, eat and drink local specialities, support local artisans, tidy up after yourself – makes you a most welcome guest.

Sweeping view of the lagoon city 3 THE AUTHOR

Alison Bing the square to join the crowds in a collective When she’s not scrib- gasp under the gold of the bling notes in church di San Marco ( p65 ). Afterwards, I brave the pews or methodically gauntlet of boutiques lining the route from eating her way across the Piazza to the Ponte dell’Accademia – but Venice’s sestieri I can’t resist stops at Galleria Rosella Junck (neighbourhoods), and Caterina Tognon Arte Contemporanea to Alison contributes to see the latest contemporary art sensations (see Lonely Planet’s Ven- p74). The (p81 ) is the next ice, USA, San Fran- logical stop on a contemporary art binge, to cisco and Tuscany & see the latest rotation from François Pinault’s Umbria guides, as collection installed in the fluid gallery spaces well as architecture, food, and art glossies in- Tadao Ando created in Venice’s ancient water- cluding Architectural Record, Cooking Light front customs warehouses. From here, it’s a and ’s Flash Art. Currently she divides leisurely wander up the sunny Zattere and her time between San Francisco and a hilltop Calle Lunga San Barnaba to a long lunch of town on the border of Lazio and Tuscany with Venetian seafood classics at Ristoteca Oniga her partner Marco Flavio Marinucci. Alison (p183 ) and a coffee among artists, fishmongers holds a bachelor’s degree in art history and and arguing philosophy students at Il Caffè a master’s degree from the Fletcher School Rosso ( p201 ) in Campo Santa Margherita. of Law and Diplomacy, a joint program of My old friends Rosalba Carriera and Pietro Tufts and Harvard Universities – perfectly Longhi greet me with a wink from the walls at respectable diplomatic credentials she regu- Ca’ Rezzonico (p80 ) , but I can’t stay long: I have larly undermines with opinionated culture a standing date with a red-hot at I Frari commentary for newspapers, magazines, TV (p84 ) , and VizioVirtù (p168 ) balsamic vinegar and radio. chocolates on the way. I take the long way to happy hour at the Rialto via Santa Croce stu- dios to see the newest handmade wonders, and ALISON’S TOP VENICE DAY wind up dragging artisans along the Grand The Venetian bea vita (beautiful life) begins Canal for drinks at Al Mercà (p202 ) . Crossing with cappuccino overlooking the Piazza San the Rialto as the sun sets, I arrive in time for Marco in the company of griffins at the fres- the last boar-salami crostini (sandwich) and a (p69 ) coed cafe of the , then cross stunning Amarone at I Rusteghi (p182 ) , then hustle off to my Interpreti Veneziani concert (p209 ) . Humming Vivaldi, I return to face the LONELY PLANET AUTHORS dimly glimmering Basilica di San Marco, and Why is our travel information the best in the world? say the word that bears repeating in Venice: It’s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated unbelievable. travellers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you’re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popu- lar spots, and off the beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They per- sonally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

15 GETTING STARTED

Nothing can really prepare you for your first glimpse of Venice, its marble palaces rising above the teal-blue lagoon like a wildly ambitious desert mirage – but for the rest of your Venice va- cation, preparations come in handy. To see why the world tends to show up whenever Venice has thrown a party for the past five centuries, plan your visit to coincide with a highlight from Venice’s calendar of festivals and events (see opposite), and be sure to book accommodation ahead (see p214 ). With some advance planning (see below), you can arrive with tickets in hand for opera at La Fenice, skip the queues for museum and event tickets, and slide right into reserved seats at the restaurant of your choice. GTIG TRE STARTED GETTING While you might come to Venice prepared to splurge on once-in-a-lifetime adventures, you’ll also find opportunities to see Venice at its best for far less than you’d expect (see p21). To plan a dream getaway to match your budget, see p20 for average costs and money-saving tips. With fairy-tale charms and year-round attractions, this lagoon wonderland attracts plenty of visitors – but by keeping a few tips in mind for sustainable travel (see p21 ), you can distinguish yourself as a most welcome guest. WHEN TO GO stay at least overnight in Venice, so you can WHEN TO GO see what the city is like after the crowd thins Travellers looking for elbow room for sketch- out and the moon rises, and in the morning ing in the Gallerie dell’Accademia, casual con- when the town throws back an espresso and versation with Venetians and spontaneous starts the show all over again. weekend dinners without reservations would You’ll probably pay a premium for the be better off going in Venice’s quieter months privilege of being in town for masquerade of October through March. But even solitary balls during Carnevale, gala art openings for types will find that some Venetian experiences the Biennale, or star-studded premieres at are better in a crowd: happy hours, thunder- the Venice International Film Festival. But ous encores at La Fenice, and the chorus of this city has been internationally famed (and ‘ooh!’ as crowds pass through the portals of notorious) for its party-throwing prowess Basilica di San Marco to glimpse shimmering since the 16th century, and you can see why at gold mosaic domes overhead. For a balance any of the city’s major shindigs – see Festivals, of quiet moments and collective euphoria, opposite, and the list of official holidays, p267 .

ADVANCE PLANNING Well Ahead Before you book your train or plane to Venice, browse Venice accommodation options ( p214 ) online: you’ll be surprised how much you can save by going midweek or just before a holiday, and you’ll get prime choices in B&Bs and rental apart- ments if you plan ahead. For major events like the Biennale or Carnevale, you can often book discounted advance tickets online through Venice Tourism Board’s VeniceConnected (www.veniceconnected.com) or special passes through Hello Venezia (www.hellovenezia.com). You can also buy La Fenice opera tickets online at www.teatrolafenice.it ( p210 ).

One Week Ahead Skip the queues for popular attractions by purchasing tickets online through the Venice Tourism Board (www.turismo venezia.it) or last-minute tickets at www.weekendavenezia.com (see p266 ). If you’re planning a dinner out during a holiday, Carnevale or Venice International Film Festival, now would be a good time to book a table.

One or Two Days Ahead Check special event calendars at www.aguestinvenice.com and www.veneziadavivere.com, and plan an evening around a concert by Venice Jazz Club, Interpreti Veneziani, Musica a Palazzo, or other local music groups (see p208 ).

16 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

17 com- or ( p167 )

Teatro Junghans Teatro , the rum-and-raisin , the rum-and-raisin Ca’ Macana costumes. If you’re feeling a feeling If you’re costumes. fritelle veneziane Have a historicallyblast, or DIY trying – accurate make your own mask at ( p210 ). Slide tackle in knee britchestackle at Calcio Storico, the Slide San Marco. match in Piazza football fancy-dress Binge on eaten when still warm, morning, doughnuts best noon, and night. MaskedQuadrille the night away at La Fenice’s CarnevaleBall on the second Saturday of (tickets start at €200; costume and dance classes not included). Canal flotilla, Grab a spot canalside for the Grand the parade floats actuallywhere float. master the art of mask acting at WAYS TO CELEBRATE CARNEVALE CARNEVALE TO CELEBRATE WAYS     

brings sweets to good children and coal for children brings sweets to good was once Italy’s main This naughty ones. until Babbo Natale (Father event, gift-giving But on Christmas) stole La Befana’s thunder. has the La Befana still Epiphany in Venice, honour of kicking than off the first of more the lagoon. on 100 annual regattas www.festivaldelmare.com Since 2002 the Stazione Marittima (Ferry the popular Venice has hosted Terminal) at regattas Boat Show, with International Stazione Marittima and 100 historic vessels the Arsenale. on display at www.carnevale.venezia.it of masquerade mad- days and nights Ten twitches and wig – or until your liver ness Lent before itches – rage on in February Wednesday. Even on Ash begins signa- and Mussolini couldn’t stop Venice’s in the when masqueraders revel event, ture and occasionally stumble into canals streets wearing long-nosed plague masks and media dell’arte a week or so, imagine after tad hung over in the 18th century, felt how you would have two months! when the party lasted March DI VENEZIA SALONE NAUTICO February CARNEVALE ) p116 . July and . (witches). Accord- Four Seasons ( p231 ) (www.culturaspettacolovenezia.it, (www.culturaspettacolovenezia.it,

befane befane . Fair warning: this town seems de- . Fair

Whether you like to spend your down- Whether you like Since Venice is gorgeous inside and out, out, and inside gorgeous is Venice Since

ing to Italian legend, La Befana is the good wise witch who accompanied the three to baby Jesus, bringing gifts men to deliver along the way. Tradition- sweets to children ally, on Epiphany (6 January), La Befana

Witches in Venice don’t ride brooms: they Witches in Venice row boats, as you can see in this regatta fleet of brawny male rowers a featuring as cross-dressed January DELLA BEFANA REGATA entail crossing makeshift pontoon bridges pontoon bridges entail makeshift crossing or rowing while standing up, and boozing obvious risks. canalside has in Italian) festivals to see Many termined you dunked. about many of Venice’s upcoming events at Venice’s about many of Cultura & Spettacolo The busiest months for traditional festivities traditional festivities for The busiest months through September; find out more May are ennales, marathons, and weddings to the sea. time getting arty, sweaty, mystical, or all of arty, sweaty, mystical, or all of time getting with Bi- has you covered Venice the above, opportunities for, erm, self-expression don’t with Carnevale. begin and end about bare-breasted. The fact that Venice feels The fact that Venice about bare-breasted. that shows regulation to post that last obliged Three rules for revellers are posted in major in major posted are rules for revellers Three in the canals, no stops: no littering vaporetto buildings, and no strutting defacing historic or the Riviera Brenta or the Riviera & EVENTS FESTIVALS vacation and escape to Lido beaches (see beaches vacation and escape to Lido movement of Vivaldi’s of movement to be hot and muggy, but if you August tend on a Venetian like uncomfortable, make get see lightning strikes over the lagoon, you’ll see over lightning strikes of a whole new appreciation have summer and the thunderous brushstrokes December through March, but you might but luck December through March, you – after summer thunderstorm into a freak Piazza San Marco. The heaviest rains fall from rains fall from heaviest The Piazza San Marco. ket of snow. Bone-chilling weather in January January weather in Bone-chilling snow. of ket can bring crystalline blue skies and February ops and gooeyideal for photo in hot cocoa rare occasions, Venice’s Gothic and Gothic arches Venice’s occasions, rare blan- poking throughgondola prows a white your first glimpse of Venice may be the sight may be the Venice glimpse of your first – or on very in a puddle reflected Venice of bad weather doesn’t have to scuttle your travel your travel to scuttle doesn’tbad weather have than splendid thing more The only plans. (feast): (feast): sagra sagra (squares) and baro- (squares) campi (palaces) echo with the latest (palaces) echo with the latest palazzi sounds from around the world over a glori- sounds from around the world over ous June weekend. Most performances run to 10pm. from 4pm games for kids, hearty and Abba rustic fare, tribute bands. que www.comune.venezia.it takes of Castello of St Peter Festival The place during the last week of June, with of and food stalls at the steps music, revelry the church that was once the city’s cathe- with tradi- begins ancient festival dral. The and has all the veneration, tional religious hallmarks of a proper Italian LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA www.labiennale.org showcase for the arts international Venice’s has been a show-stopper and architecture years the for a century. In odd-numbered Art from June to No- Biennale usually runs years the Architecture and in even vember, Biennale kicks – but every off in September avant-garde Biennale features summer the Art The cinema and music. dance, theatre, in permanent Biennale is headquartered June VENEZIA SUONA www.veneziasuona.it, in Italian Hear medieval DI SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO FESTA PALIO DELLE QUATTRO ANTICHE ANTICHE QUATTRO DELLE PALIO MARINARE REPUBBLICHE www.comune.venezia.it match: the former A glorious grudge Amalfi, Genoa, Pisa of maritime republics take the historic turns hosting and Venice Four Ancient Maritime Regatta of the four galleons, crewed Republics, when at the tiller, by eight oarsmen and one boating bragging for maritime compete Costumed processions re-enactrights. each victories, naval and honour great republic’s will be any Venetian As winners. the Palio incep- the Palio’s quick to point out, since has won 30 matches tion in 1954, Venice and eight by Pisa, to nine by Amalfi, six by challenge will be The historic rival Genoa. in 2011. again held in Venice (first the doge, now the mayor) tosses a gold a gold tosses mayor) now the doge, the (first on the San Nicolò near the waters ring in scuba gear? Got your Lido. Lightning- A multiplex of ( p85 )

Experienceawe of the ( p76 ) ( p65 ) The world’s grandest boule- The world’s grandest ( p125 )

FOR FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS (Chiesa di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari; This Gothic cathedral is lined with priceless This Gothic cathedral is lined with ( rosebud) in processions through (

art, but Titian’s red-hot altarpiece gives it an red-hot art, but Titian’s otherworldly glow.

I Frari p84 ) Scuola Grande di San Rocco strike of paint illuminate floor-to-ceiling streaks master of stormy drama, masterpieces by Venice’s Tintoretto. Gallerie dell’Accademia Basilica di San MarcoBasilica di San Grand Canal vard is a shimmering of water lined with stretch palaces. Gothic marble gleaming Venetian masterpieces, packed with action, romance, and controversy. catastrophe, redemption ages under glittering gold mosaic domes. 18

    

www.sevenonline.it/sensa its lagoon so much, it has re- loves Venice every wedding vows to the water newed its of the Ascension year since 998. On the Feast on the second Sunday in May, the city gave fleet a grand send-off as it sailed Venice’s fleet Dalmatia in 998. The off to reclaim the city since, triumphant, and ever returned of the Ascension the Feast has celebrated Sposalizio del Mar (Wedding with with the when the city’s leader the Sea) ceremony, FESTA DELLA SENSA DELLA SENSA FESTA Not a race so much as a show of endur- ance, this 32km ‘long row’ starts with the launch of 1000 boats in front of the Palazzo loops past Burano and Murano, Ducale, and ends with cheers, sweat and enormous della Dogana. at Punta blisters VOGALONGA www.turismovenezia.it May May

www.comune.venezia.it patron saint Join the celebration of Venice’s a men carry on 25 April, when Venetian bocolo April DI SAN MARCO FESTA San Marco, then bestow them on the Piazza they love. women lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO ,

19 (Train- roars to life roars to life macchina, , Spike Jonze , Spike Jonze ( p119 )

, a ferry ride away , a ferry , Antoine Fuqua , Antoine Fuqua (Brokeback Mountain) (Brokeback Burano (The Wrestler) ( p124 )

take turns rowing fast and (pylon) and pound back down to , and Ang Lee , and Ang Lee San Servolo gondolieri bricola the Historical Regatta’s trophy stand. the Historical Regatta’s The sleepy island of sleepy The the finishing line at Ca’ Foscari. Kids,the finishing line at Ca’ women and furiously for top honours at the VENICE VIDEOART FAIR www.venicevideoartfair.org and weird, Italy’s premier Poetic, lovely 25 booths of new- video art fair features media art set- in the anachronistic island ting of SAGRA DEL PESCE www.comune.venezia.it September September REGATA STORICA www.comune.venezia.it the mind who’s winning, check out Never fantastic gear: 16th-century costumes, barks gondolas, and ceremonial eight-oared in a historical procession re- all feature enacting the arrival of the Queen of Cyprus. On the first Sunday of the month, a floating parade is followed by a series of four races that start and proceed west up at Castello of to the former convent the Grand Canal the boats turn around Santa Chiara, where a from the Biennale gardens. Biennale from the zionale d’Artezionale film annual first its announced to threatened the scandal in 1932, showcase ‘What kind would risk of a city sink Venice. entertainment?’, on popular its reputation But York and Toronto. New Cannes, sniffed Clark Garbo, Joan Crawford, once Greta for people showed up Gable and 25,000 showcase and its ‘Golden the screenings, a winning proved ceremony Lion’ awards formula of art an indie Never and celebrity. Film International the Venice film showcase, who should directors rewards often Festival merit, including won Oscars on creative have Aronofsky Darren (Being John Malkovich) ing Day) Woody Allen, favourites as well as perennial Zhang Kitano, Martin and Scorsese Takeshi Yimou. during September’s annual Fish Festival, Festival, annual Fish during September’s when crowds enjoy fish, polenta and white In wine accompanied by traditional music. men’s the city’s only mixed the afternoon takes place off and women’s rowing regatta via via , with , with ( p112 )

( p104 ) ( p104

Giardini Pubblici Giardini Chiesa del SS Redentore

special exhibitions at locations across across at locations exhibitions special Architecture years the alternate In Venice. with in the Arsenale, is staged Biennale parts in other installations occasional of the di Danza Internazionale Festival city. The Festival (International Contemporanea is held annually Dance) of Contemporary six about and runs for starting in mid-June, weeks. www.labiennale.org/en/cinema than Lido beaches in thing hotter only The carpet at this star-studded is the red August which runs from the last weekend in event, through the first week of September August della Mostra del Cinema on at the Palazzo Biennale Interna- When the Venice the Lido. VENICE INTERNATIONAL FILM VENICE INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL August The annual summer fest seems to go by seems to go by summer fest annual The jazz, year, but live name every a different themes recurring and dance are theatre The from Giudecca to mainland Mestre. with Jazz Festival, highlight is the Venice jazz legends such as Wynton Marsalis and Jazz Orchestra bringing the Lincoln Center and Italian down the house at La Fenice, San playing Piazza Conte stars like Paolo Pick orchestra. Marco with La Fenice’s up programs from tourist offices; events into September. continue often SUGGESTIVO www.culturaspettacolovenezia.it, in Italian

www.turismovenezia.it della across the Canale Walk on water Giudecca to July FESTA DEL REDENTORE a bobbing, wobbly pontoon bridge dur- a bobbing, wobbly pontoon of the Redeemer, the third ing the Feast is another regatta weekend in July. Yet ac- but the real held on the Grand Canal, and on the Canale tion is at the Redentore crowds picnic in della Giudecca, where year Every boats and watch fireworks. has commemorated since 1577, Venice from the plague by crossing its reprieve thanks at the the pontoon bridge to give church – a joyous and only occasionally wet event. soaking pavilions in the in the pavilions . €9 p185 €15 to €25 . and house wine, €10 €10 to €30 p257 , and the individual €1 to €4 each (Venetian snacks, or (Venetian €0.90 to €1 p266 €16 panini

(sandwiches) and similar cicheti panini cicheti, (open-face sandwiches) even sea- (open-face crostini Hand-blown Murano glass ring Handmade marble-paper travel journal 12-hour vaporetto ticket Bicycle hire per day on the Lido Given these basic costs, a backpacker stick- these basic costs, a backpacker Given MUCH? HOW Espresso coffee at the bar Cicheti (Venetian bar snacks) (good for entry to 16 churches) Chorus Pass It pays to stay longer in Venice when it when it in Venice It pays to stay longer you see, you pay per The more the less A full sit-down meal (three courses, with courses, A full sit-down meal (three Accommodation, meals, transport and sight transport meals, Accommodation, venue venue listings. walking rather to youth hostels, ing religiously enjoy- (public ferries), than taking vaporetti ing meals of museumand making good use and church of passes, by on €50 to €60 per day. A could get varies widely depending on budget midrange food, lodging and season, ranging from €100 a day. to €250 balls, wine. with a glass of food delicacies at the bar sellMost bars pizza startssnacks costing €3 to €5, and at about personal-sized €2 a slice or €7 for a generous is true across Italy, and snacks at coffee As pie. Self-catering than at a table. cheaper the bar are see option; eating is another budget for comes to public transport, because tickets a much are 72 hours for 24 to travel unlimited For details, deal than one-way tickets. better chapter, see the Transport entry passes to Venice’s with multivenue site For passesmuseums and com- and churches. seebined entry tickets, entry fees will be your main expenses. be your main will entry fees A basic €80 a night, for less than is hard to find double in highespecially season. some planning With low season, to March the November during central B&B for as you might find a charming, or canal bunks with frescoes hostel little as €65, by the views for even or apartment rentals less, week starting For midrange at around €300. (in low season) as low as €100 rates or €160 in high season, a room in a sleek you might score palace. actual or an boutique B&B dessert and house heads upwards wine) quickly €25 to €30, but of gourmet delight: a budget are ‘small plates’) meat- of you two to four orders under €10 gets

service, service, and ( p81 )

Sant’Erasmo (www.veniceconnected.com)

, northeast grape of the city, the wine Chiesa di 20 To reduce your entry fees, check out ticket ticket out check your entry fees, To reduce

and parking. which sells reduced-price advance combined sells which reduced-price for transportation, city museumsor solo tickets VeniceConnected prices on different days available online online days available prices on different Tourism Board’s new through the Venice views, stellar selection of Veneto wines, and Veneto selectionviews, stellar of seafood. lagoon-fresh reasonable. and Milan often charge just charge Rome and Milan often reasonable. minus the Grand Canal or more, as much that supplies have to be brought in by boats that supplies have prices for basic footbridges, over and lugged food, drink and lodging can seem surprisingly The splendours of Venice do not always do not always Venice of The splendours – though when you consider come cheap COSTS COSTS & MONEY If you’d survived plague, floods and Aus- trian invasion, you’d throw a party too. the 17th century, since November 21 Every crossed a pontoon bridge have Venetians thanks at to give across the Grand Canal the www.turismovenezia.it November DELLA DELLA MADONNA FESTA SALUTE www.venicemarathon.com up a sweat over Six thousand runners work 42km of spectacular scenery, dashing along villas before past Palladian Brenta the River and heading to Piazza crossing into Venice Mind bridge. San Marco via a 160m floating your step… ( p122 ) www.comune.venezia.it island. fair, held on an A genuine country isle’ of ‘garden On Venice’s October MOSTO DEL FESTA the island – and since this is the last serious last serious is the this since – and island the go all season, rowers of the regatta match win. definitive a out for harvest Sunday on the first is celebrated in October of floats, farmers with a parade and music, market, live gourmet food stalls, wine. splurge on sweets. splurge lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED SUSTAINABLE VENICE ). 21 , a ).

at ).

p199 p116 p191 Bauer ( p224 ) (double €145 (ice cream) (ice cream) , including a glass or (€80, not including tip (€80, not including Teatro La Fenice Teatro Murano Collezioni gelato in the Lido’s Palazzo della in the Lido’s Palazzo ( p188 )

Foresteria Valdese €1.50 to €3 at an authentic €1.50 to €3 at an Palazzo Abadessa Palazzo

(Azienda di Turistica Promozione (sparkling white wine) in the (http://en.venezia.waf.it) Offers dis- (http://en.venezia.waf.it) gondola ride All’Arco ). (€17 plus vaporetto transport; (€17 plus vaporetto prosecco a slab of hazelnut p261 . ( p105 )

(two courses €70-plus, not including wine; (two courses €70-plus, not including (hot chocolate €10, plus €6 music surcharge for gianduiotto, Venezia, or APT; www.turismovenezia.it) Sells ticketsVenezia, to major city attractions online, covers upcoming cultural accom- events and other of B&Bs, hotels and lists hundreds modation options. 7.6 sq km of land punctuating 267km of spar- land punctuating 267km of 7.6 sq km of and canals, this city is kling lagoon waters no mistake: than land. But make water more of custodianship careful without Venetians’ would be there 1000 years, this lagoon for over these landmarks. no land left to support Venice TourismVenice Board Weekend a Venezia SUSTAINABLE VENICE towering church Look up at Venice’s and arching domes, grand Gothic archways below: then look at what’s directly footbridges, lagoon. With only Venice’s of waters the teal counted and last-minute tickets to major tourist attractions. counted and last-minute tickets tourist to major private cabana -and-bitters cocktail) for -and-bitters cocktail) . Met (bar snacks) feast at (bar snacks) feast daytime Venice International Film Festival screenings Festival International Film daytime Venice for options near you. for options near ( p209 ) cicheti prosecco ( Caffè Florian p198 ). ). Bargain: sip €2 artisanal hot chocolate served hot and gooey from a -and-peach cocktail) where it was invented, at Harry’s Bar (€15; it was invented, at where -and-peach cocktail) spritz . p184 p199 ). Bargain: take the ultimate Venetian transit dare and stand up like dare transit ). Bargain: take on a local ultimate Venetian the ). Bargain: book . ( p168 ) Palazzo Querini-StampaliaPalazzo prosecco , ( p19 p259 . Bargain: soak up the sun with a chilled €4 ( p175 ) ). Bargain: score unsigned rings). Bargain: score beads by emerging Murano and glass artisans for €7 to along the Zattere with Da Nico’s along the Zattere Bellini (pub-restaurant) – see – (pub-restaurant) VizioVirtù ( p224 )

p119 concert at historic San Vidal ). Bargain: even on the day of performances, €24 tickets you may still be able to score to an prime-time screenings tickets Festival International Film to Venice osteria (commuter gondola) ride(commuter gondola) Canal (see across the Grand p210 ). Bargain: drift in a €22 dorm bed at off under 18th-century frescoes (The Guide to Contemporary Creative (www.aguestinvenice.com) Hotelier (www.aguestinvenice.com) Linea Arte Vetro (http://venicexplorer.net) Provides (http://venicexplorer.net) p222 lounge dockside to pick up this month’s printed to pick up this month’s printed

traghetto ( p274 ) brochure, or click on the Calendar but- brochure,

Carlo Scarpa–designed garden at Bargain: go all out with €10 to €20 for a five-starBargain: go all out with €10 to Bargain: €15 from (tickets €153; hostel housed in a 17th-century palace. hostel housed in a 17th-century Hotel & Spa Palladio two of DOC Veneto wine. two of DOC Veneto Mostra del Cinema (tickets €40; a €1 Splurge: soak your cares away with a milk, honey and rose bath in a Palladian landmark at eco-friendly a Palladian away with a milk, honey and rose bath in Splurge: soak your cares Splurge: reserve Splurge: purchase a highly collectablethe world’s leading glass artisans signed work by at Splurge: linger over luxurious hot chocolate at Interpreti Veneziani Splurge: make a summer getaway to Lido beaches with a Splurge: score opening-night box seats to opera performances opening-night box seats Splurge: score that raise the gilded roof at Splurge: drift ceilings in a kingly frescoed off under at a 1540 palace, antique bed at Michelin-starredSplurge: indulge in decadent dining Splurge: explore Venice and discover your own romantic side on a 40-minute own romantic side on a 40-minute and discover your Venice Splurge: explore Splurge: sip an authentic Splurge: sip an authentic to €325; chocolate fountain, at Bargain: toast the good life with a strong good life Bargain: toast the submerged under whipped cream (€8; submerged under whipped cream (artworks €300-plus; outdoor seating in Piazza San Marco; outdoor seating in Piazza neighbourhood Cinema. della Mostra del (€8), behind the Palazzo the Lido’s PalaBiennale or extras, like singing; see also          

TOP 10 SIGNATURE SPLURGES & BEST BARGAINS SPLURGESTOP SIGNATURE &10 BEST BARGAINS experience savvyWith some minimise the bill. and your Venice you can maximise in this book, the plentiful options and alternatives. experiences, Venetian and best-value Venice these signature Check out

INTERNET RESOURCES INTERNETRESOURCES Venice; www.veneziadavivere.com) The guide to what’s www.veneziadavivere.com) Venice; now: music performances,hip and happening in Venice art and more. new designers openings, nightlife, Venice Explorer Venice association provides information on upcoming exhibits, and lectures. events, da Vivere Venezia the following: A Guest in Venice venues, bars calendar listings and locator maps for Venice attractions. and obvious www.lonelyplanet.com, sites offering offering obvious www.lonelyplanet.com, sites handy information, listings and deals include Eventi well as the As ton at www.comune.venezia.it. To find out what’s on the calendar in Venice what’s on the calendar in Venice To find out during your visit, drop by the APT tourism office motoschiaffi You’ll be (ice-cream Drinking tap (pub-restaurants) (pub-restaurants) gelaterie osterie You’ll be admired for recycling for recycling You’ll be admired Long-haul ferries and cruise ships Ask water-taxi drivers to go slower Fewer than one-third visitors Fewer of Venice’s lagoon by themselves – which is where your is where – which by themselves lagoon million visi- With 22 in handy. help comes stay the night and enjoy Venetian dinners, concerts,stay the night and enjoy Venetian happy take try not to this person- hours and hospitality. Venetians and local–visitor relations ally, but it does put a strain on tax revenues for essential services like garbage collection and bridge choice to stay for a night maintenance. Your a chance to show off its legendary gives Venice or more for all hospitality, and lightens the burden for Venetians that upkeep. to avoid kicking up a wake foundations, to protect Venice’s If you takeand gondoliers will sing your praises. your sweet time getting around town on foot, you’ll be more artisans,likely to discover Venetian shops), and off-the-beaten-path that don’t often benefit from tourism. that don’t often benefit Pick up and pack out trash Pick Ask for acqua del rubinetto (tap water) the city the cost water instead of bottled water helps spare bottles and effort some 20–60 million water of recycling annually. Spend time and money in local businesses Stay overnight Go with the slow flow tors a year, even a minor adjustment in travel year, even a in travel adjustment a minor tors for upkeep of the burden can lighten patterns of in the life a sea and make change Venetians, Ven- of You can be the next hero the lagoon. thoughtful decisions: a few ice’s story with the train to Venice Take and environmental impacthave an outsize Venice on tiny ancient exposing Venice’s aquaculture, its fragile lagoon from high-speed foundations to degradation (wakes) and leakage from the bilge, ballast of wastewater emissions from Sulphur and flushing of on-board toilets. stonework, leaving lacy cruise ships eat away the city’s marble and stone turn to Gothic balconies to crumble as the lower-impact train instead, and Venice Take powder. Italy, the train is more will be most grateful – and within cost-efficient, too. time- and and tidying as you go through Venice – and when recepta- and tidying as you go through Venice your trash. scarce or full, pack out cles are assuring your Venetian hosts that all their effortassuring your Venetian to keep appreciated. afloat is worthwhile,Venice and personally Chiesa di Santa Chiesa di Santa ). But even if the Mose ). But even if the Mose , a spectacular domed , a spectacular domed p36 ( p81 )

But when it comes to shoring up complex up But when it comes to shoring You may have heard that Venice is sink- heard that Venice You may have Reclaiming those 7.6km from the lagoon thoseReclaiming lagoon the from 7.6km environmental concerns, 90,000 Venetians environmental concerns, 90,000 Venetians on the wear and tear the tide of can’t reverse from the Porta Marghera chemical plants plants chemical from the Porta Marghera for boats. inland and new speed rules reverse the toll on the lagoon from industri- the toll on the lagoon reverse alisation, enforcing new rules around waste ecosystem that keeps Venice afloat. Since afloat. Since Venice that keeps ecosystem to bold steps taken have the 1960s, Venetians project can alleviate some flood conditions, alleviate can some flood conditions, project to the fragile lagoon remain other threats times a year; now it’s closer to 60. Venice is is times a year; now it’s closer to 60. Venice trying to control the tides by building new the lagoon, of at the edges mobile barriers called Mose (see tankers and cruise ships has contributed to to cruise and has contributed ships tankers levels since 1900. Back a doubling in water flooded about 10 then, Piazza San Marco motorboats. At the same time, the dredging motorboats. At the same time, the dredging ferries, to accommodate deeper channels of dustrial pollutants and the wakes of speeding speeding of dustrial pollutants the wakes and city’s wooden foundations have held up mi- have city’s wooden foundations the riseraculously well, despite and fall of centuries. over tides and periodic flooding taking a pounding But the foundations are from in- with new stresses as never before, ing, but that’s not entirely accurate. The The accurate. ing, but that’s not entirely structure supported by at least 100,000 py- by at least supported structure island. lons at the tip of Maria della Salute tides. On top of these ingenious platforms, platforms, these ingenious of tides. On top monuments that built incredible Venetians Bald- time, including of stood the test have Longhena’sassare domed 1630 and hardened the structure, while the upper upper while the the structure, and hardened impervious remained stone layers the to seawater gradually mineralised the wood seawater gradually mineralised the wood platforms were built of pine pylons rammed pine pylons rammed built of platforms were by lay- lagoon floor topped into the muddy Over Istrian stone. the the centuries, of ers in the shallow lagoon to drain the waters the waters to drain shallow lagoon in the the islands, To extend tiny islands. around was hard work Venetians accomplished over over accomplished work Venetians was hard several digging centuries, deeper channels lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED SUSTAINABLE VENICE 22 GRAND CANAL

Sorry, Champs Élysées, you never stood a chance: in the 15th century, French writer Philippe de Commines proclaimed the Grand Canal ‘the finest street in the world, with the finest houses’. Comparing other boulevards to the Grand Canal seems unfair, given teal- blue water in place of asphalt and fleets of gondolas that make rush hour seem romantic. The Grand Canal looms larger in the imagination than in reality: this stretch of water is only 40m to 100m wide, 3.8km long and about 6m deep. Yet, this backwards-S-shaped canal could cause architectural whiplash, with 185 monuments and 15 religious buildings purpose-built to reflect Venice’s glory. Ships laden with treasure pulled up to the grand water gates of fondachi (trading houses), and visiting dignitaries alighted on Grand Canal piers suitably stunned by the grandiose Gothic palazzi (palaces). Today you don’t have to be a Greek sea captain or Turkish princess to navigate the Grand Canal, though the magnificent ride may make you feel like one. Public transport doesn’t get more glamorous than the vaporetto 1 ride from the Piazzale Roma to San Marco. Along the leisurely 45-minute commute, you’ll spot some 50 palazzi, six churches, four bridges, two open-air markets and other landmarks recognisable from scene-stealing cameos in four James Bond films.

Cruising down the finest 'street' in the world, the Grand Canal PONTE DI CALATRAVA TO CA’ PESARO

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Hurtle through time along the Grand Canal, from a futuristic bridge past a 13th-century Turkish trading post and Wagner’s Renaissance residence to a modern-art showcase.

126  Ponte di Calatrava  Deposito del Megio The Grand Canal starts with controversy: Span- Before its conversion into a school in 1922, this ish architect Santiago Calatrava’s 2008 luminous silo stored millet for famines and sieges, and glass-and-steel bridge (p97) gracing gritty Piaz- saved the city in 1559. Gracing the edifice is zale Roma. With costs triple the original €4 million Venice’s lion of St Mark, a copy of an original estimates, work to correct a 4cm tolerance, and chipped off by Napoleon. wheelchair accessibility concerns, some Venetians are grudging in their admiration.  Stazione di Santa Lucia  Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi The first trains rumbled from the mainland into Though Mauro Cordussi’s Renaissance palace Venice in 1846, and a convent dedicated to Santa now houses the city’s casino ( p208 ), it wasn’t Lucia was demolished to make way for this train exactly lucky for composer , who station, built in 1865. retreated here with his family in 1882–83 only to drop dead on the premises.  Ponte dei Scalzi  Chiesa di San Stae Eugenio Miozzi’s 1934 Istrian stone-and-iron bridge Built in 1709 on the site of an older church, this (p150) connects the train station with the south- statue-bedecked white church ( p91 ) keeps a western half of the city. straight Palladian face while winking at baroque ornament with its tiered statuary.   Ca’ Pesaro The former Turkish trading centre (p90) features a With a grand double arcade atop a faceted mar- polychrome marble double colonnade with 13th- ble base, this palazzo (p88 ) , completed in 1710, century capitals. The watchtowers are mostly houses the Galleria d’Arte Moderna and Museo decorative: though Venice pillaged Constantino- d’Arte Orientale. ple and Turks and Venetians skirmished at sea, trade triumphed over tension within Venice.

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127 CA’ D’ORO TO CA’ FOSCARI

Explore a sensational stretch of water between two Gothic palaces, passing open- air markets, the , mansions inhabited by monkeys and heretics, and a town hall that makes bureaucracy look beautiful.

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 Ca’ d’Oro  Ponte di Rialto The gilding is long gone from the facade of the Tourists hang off this bridge ( p87 ) like gargoyles ‘Golden House’ (p96 ) , but the majesty of this to snap photos of Antonio da Ponte’s 1592 engi- 1430 Venetian-Gothic marvel remains. Two tiers neering marvel. Though final construction costs of lacy arcades feature peekaboo quatrefoil port- spiralled to 250,000 Venetian ducats – some €19 holes, crowned by rooftop crenellation that looks million today – this marble arc has a glow rival- like a tiara. ling gold around sunset.

 Pescaria  Ca’ Farsetti & Palazzo Loredan Before you see it coming on your right, you’ll Before becoming Venice’s city hall in 1826, Ca’ probably hear this fish market (p85), built in 1907 Farsetti (p139) served as a noble family residence, on the site where fishmongers have sung the an art school where Canova studied and a hotel. praises of lagoon seafood for 700 years. Neighbouring Palazzo Loredan makes bureauc- racy seem elegant, with city offices behind a 13th- century and 1st-floor .

 Rialto markets  Palazzi Mocenigo At the neighbouring produce market ( p85 ), This Gothic complex ( p89 ) today houses luxury Venetian vendors brag shamelessly about local holiday apartments, but it used to host more con- seasonal produce. troversial guests: Thomas Moore sojourned here, philosopher Giordano Bruno retreated here after accusations of heresy, and Byron occupied one house with his two monkeys and 14 servants.

 Ca’ Foscari Today a post office, this fondacho (p74 ) , once Turn right to spot the quatrefoil arcades of Doge the most important trading house on the canal, ’s 15th-century Gothic man- used to house German traders. Of the Titian and sion, converted into a trade school in 1866 and Giorgione frescoes that once covered the exterior, restored in 2006 as the seat of Venice’s Foscari only a few faded fragments remain, displayed at University, famed for (fittingly) its architecture the Ca’ d’Oro ( p96 ). program.

129 TO PRIGIONI NUOVE

The grand finale of this canal is packed with more drama than a La Fenice opera: modern art attacks, prowling lions, stark nakedness, terrifying curses, black plague and a pink prison.

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 Palazzo Grassi*  C a ’ D a r i o Expect the unexpected at 18th-century Palazzo This 1487 palazzo (p82 ) fascinated Monet, Grassi ( p71 ): a car painted by Richard Prince, or but dark superstitions linger behind this multi- a skull sculpted by Subodh Gupta from cook- coloured marble facade. According to Venetian ing pots. With ingenious exhibition design by urban legends, anyone who lives here is cursed Japanese minimalist Tadao Ando, this museum with a terrible death, which local gossips claim features blockbuster shows and François Pin- dissuaded Woody Allen from buying the place. ault’s contemporary art collection.

 Ca’ Rezzonico  Chiesa di Santa Maria della ’s jewel-box palace ( p80 ) Salute was once used for official ceremonies, and now Baldassare Longhena’s octagonal domed church houses Venice’s baroque art treasures. Through ( p81 ) gives thanks to the Madonna for sparing its see-and-be-seen windows, you might catch Venice from the plague; it’s propped up by a glimpse of heavenly Tiepolo ceilings. 100,000 wood pylons underfoot.

 Ponte dell’Accademia  Punta della Dogana Built in the 1930s as a temporary replacement The tip of Dorsoduro is the Punta della Dogana for a 19th-century metal bridge, this wooden ( p81 ), a historic customs warehouse reimag- bridge ( p70 ) arched like a cat’s back is an en- ined by Tadao Ando as a public showcase for during novelty. At the foot of the bridge is the François Pinault’s contemporary art collection. Gallerie dell’Accademia ( p76 ).

 Palazzo Venier dei Leoni  Palazzo Ducale Stone lions and Calder sculpture flank this pal- The Grand Canal’s grand finale is this pink Gothic azzo, home to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection palazzo ( p66 ) and its Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge ( p78 ). Between the lions, Marino Marini’s 1948 of Sighs) leading the condemned to prison. naked bronze Angel of the City on horseback is Recently, preservationists have sighed over the evidently excited by his view of the Grand Canal. advertising draped over these landmarks while undergoing restoration. Given wide-ranging outcry, the Palazzo Ducale might retire from its brief, inglorious career hawking Swatches. 131 THIS IMAGE IS NOT AVAILABLE DUE TO COPYRIGHT RESTRICTIONS

The Ponte dei Sospiri () connects the Palazzo Ducale and Prigioni Nuove 132 © Lonely Planet lonelyplane t . c o m

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