02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi 1 The Best of Venice 1 1 Frommer’s Favorite Venice Experiences . .2 2 Best Bets for Accommodations . .5 3 Best Bets for Dining . .6 2 Venice in Depth 8 1 Venice Today . .8 2 Looking Back at Venice . .9 3 Venice’s Art & Architecture . .15 4 Venice in Popular Culture: Books, Film & Music . .18 3 Planning Your Trip to Venice 22 1 Orientation . .22 Neighborhoods in Brief . .24 2 Visitor Information . .27 3 Entry Requirements . .29 4 When to Go . .32 Venice Calendar of Events . .32 5 Getting There & Getting Around . .33 6 Money . .39 4 Where to Stay 40 1 Near Piazza San Marco . .41 2 In Castello/On Riva degli Schiavoni . .47 3 Near the Ponte di Rialto . .50 COPYRIGHTED4 In Cannaregio . .MATERIAL . .51 5 In Santa Croce . .54 6 In Dorsoduro . .54 7 On Isola della Giudecca . .57 8 Near Piazzale Roma . .58 9 On the Lido . .58 02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page iv 5 Where to Dine 61 1 Near Piazza San Marco . .61 Something Sweet . .68 2 In Castello . .69 3 Near the Ponte di Rialto . .71 4 In Santa Croce . .75 5 In San Polo . .75 6 In Dorsoduro . .76 7 On Isola della Giudecca . .78 8 On the Lido . .79 9 The Lagoon Islands of Murano, Burano & Torcello . .80 6 Exploring Venice 82 1 St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco) . .83 2 The Grand Canal (Canal Grande) . .91 Venice by Gondola . .92 3 Museums & Galleries . .92 Carnevale . .98 4 Churches & Guild Houses . .100 5 The Lido . .104 6 The Ghetto . .105 7 Organized Tours . .105 8 The Lagoon Islands of Murano, Burano & Torcello . .106 7 Venice Strolls 110 Piazza San Marco & the Doge’s Palace . .110 The Accademia Bridge to Piazza San Marco . .129 8 Shopping 145 1 The Shopping Scene . .145 2 Tips on Shopping for Glass & Lace . .148 3 Shopping A to Z . .149 02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page v 9 Venice After Dark 157 1 The Performing Arts . .157 2 The Bar Scene . .158 3 Wine Bars/Taverns . .160 Fueled by Cicchetti . .160 4 The Cafe Scene . .161 5 Nighttime Ice Cream & Pastries . .162 6 Casinos . .163 7 A Dance Club . .163 8 Gay Clubs . .164 Appendix: Venice Fast Facts 165 Index 173 General Index . .173 Accommodations Index . .179 Restaurant Index . .179 02_399040-ftoc.qxp 2/12/09 8:40 PM Page vi List of Maps Venice & Environs 3 Walking Tour 1: Piazza Venice Orientation 23 San Marco & the Doge’s Palace 112 Where to Stay in Venice 42 Walking Tour 2: The Accade- Where to Dine in Venice 62 mia Bridge to San Marco Piazza San Marco 85 130 What to See & Do Venice Shopping 146 in Venice 86 The Accademia 93.