Plastic Fantastic INDIO, Calif

The Inside: China’s Youth AppealPg. 12 JONES NET FALLS 59%/3 CALVIN KLEIN HITS DUBAI/8 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 1, 2008 • $2.00 List Sportswear Plastic Fantastic INDIO, Calif. — The Parisian punk rock quartet the Plastiscines earned some major stripes with their rollicking performance at last weekend’s Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, but could they pull off a fashion shoot mere hours after their set? No sweat. Here, bassist Louise Basilien serves up her ﬁ ercest pose in Sass & Bide’s acetate and polyester dress. For more on the Plastiscines, see pages 6 and 7. Putting on the Brakes: Kohl’s Latest Retailer To Cut Back Expansion By Doris Hajewski

N BLACK FOR MAC; STYLED BY LEILAN BLACK BABOI FOR MAC; STYLED BY MILWAUKEE — Kohl’s is the latest to feel recession’s pinch. The retailer plans to slow its store expansion plans and won’t reach its previously announced goal of 1,400 stores by 2012, chairman and chief executive officer Larry Montgomery said. “We’re probably going to take a couple of years longer than we originally planned to get to that,” Montgomery said following the company’s annual meeting at the Milwaukee Theater here. The 957-unit retailer will take the pulse of the economy each year and adjust its store opening plans accordingly, he said. See Kohl’s, Page 11 PHOTOGRAPHED BY HELLIN KAY AT THE ANTHEM HOUSE, COACHELLA; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ/PHOTOGENICS BEAUTY AT SMASHBOX; MAKEUP BY ROBI SMASHBOX; MAKEUP BY THE ANTHEM HOUSE, COACHELLA; AT JOHNNY STUNTZ/PHOTOGENICS BEAUTY HAIR BY AT HELLIN KAY BY PHOTOGRAPHED WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION For four girls who have just played the biggest and steamiest gig of their ™ 6 lives, the Plastiscines are remarkably fresh-faced and composed. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Kohl’s Corp. will slow its store expansion plans and won’t reach its goal 1 of 1,400 stores by 2012, chairman and ceo Larry Montgomery said. SIZE WISE Bloomingdale’s and the Retail, Wholesale and Department Store Union Serving the Plus Size Consumer: A Solid Return on Investment 3 have reached a tentative agreement on a new labor contract. Shares of Jones Apparel Group Inc. rose 5.5 percent, buoyed by an Call it a fascinating conundrum of Supply a size 15 and above told the Monitor that they had 3 improvement in spring selling, despite a fall in fi rst-quarter profi ts. “Size” Economics. browsed the internet for apparel. EYE: Christy Turlington, fresh from a yoga retreat, wasn’t prepared for the According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle “Additional research tell us that this consumer 4 media throng at the dinner for the Tribeca Film Festival artist program. Monitor™, 21% of female respondents report wants to wear stylish denim, so Zafu offers a section DENIM: Calvin Klein Inc. held its fi rst event in Dubai showing spring wearing a dress size 15 or greater. Yet, seven out of dedicated solely to Plus Jeans,” Newel continues. 8 signature and ck lines, part of its series of international installations. ten of these same respondents say “When we added Svoboda, a line LETTERS: While it’s often derided as Rome’s ugly sister, Milan is getting that they cannot find clothing of premium denim, the response 10 a facelift equal to its fashionable reputation. that they like in their size. was off the charts so we know that Supply the right product with if you offer the right product, she Classifi ed Advertisements...... 13-15 savvy styling, flattering fit and will pay for it, no matter what.” To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. a sense of value in the size she Svoboda, with a line of denim [email protected], using the individual’s name. wears and you’ve got a winning sized exclusively 12 and above, is WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT economic formula, says Emme, just one of many better brands ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 93. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with the world’s first fuller figure serving the plus consumer today. one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and supermodel, women’s advocate Marina Rinaldi, Tadashi, Eileen November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided and clothing designer. “If you Fisher, Melissa Masse, Anna by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, invest in her, she will invest in Scholz and Anne Klein New Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications you, it’s as simple as that.” York are just a number of labels Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: While the demand is clearly serving the plus consumer at high return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA there, the supply is often end emporiums from Neiman 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE lacking and that is reflected in Marcus to Saks, among others. INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new the amount of money the fuller “If you invest in her, “It’s not about money, it’s subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production figured woman spends on she will invest in you, about getting what she wants,” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other clothing. Female respondents it’s as simple as that.” says Emme. “There is definitely Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list wearing a size 15 and above spent — Emme a couture consumer who will available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA an average of $64.93 on clothing spend to get the wardrobe that 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, in the last month compared with $75.40 for fits with her lifestyle.” OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED respondents sized 12 to 14, $82.05 for respondents While higher end brands exist and are poised MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR sized 7 to 11 and $88.65 for respondents sized 0 to for success, the majority of women buying larger CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY 6. “She spends less because she has less from which sizes name mass merchants as their current A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. to choose,” Emme concludes. “Believe me, she resource for apparel. Among plus size females will spend if you can speak to her with the right who say that they have issues with finding products and services.” clothing that they like in their sizes, 32% shop Emme makes her own fashion contribution to mass merchants, 27% chain stores, 17% specialty In Brief women through Me by Emme, her line of women’s stores and 12% department stores, amplifying the sportswear sized 2 to 26, which is sold on QVC. opportunity for chain, specialty and department com. She is just one of a number of entrepreneurs stores to offer brands and services to devise ways ● MACERICH GETS PHOENIX LAND: Mall developer Macerich to speak to this customer. on Wednesday paid $32 million at auction for 112 acres in north to recognize the power and importance of the Phoenix that is earmarked for its Palisene mixed-use project. larger size market, but she is also one of the first to One specialty retailer serving this consumer The company was the sole bidder. Rival developer Related Cos. add that more needs to be done by everyone in the is J. Jill, the multi-channel retailer. Says Betsy and Thomas J. Klutznick Co., partners in a competing CityNorth global supply chain. Thompson, a spokesperson, “Fuller figured development, bowed out after unsuccessfully contesting the “Strides have clearly been made in the plus women haven’t always had as many flattering or auction, originally scheduled for October 2007. Macerich al- size market, but there is still a long way to go,” stylish options and we’ve found that they love ready owns 18 million square feet of retail space in 11 regional agrees Blair Newel, Vice President of Product having sophisticated choices, great fabrics that feel shopping centers in the Phoenix area. In March, Macerich an- Development at good and look nounced a venture in the 120-acre One Scottsdale mixed-use development, partnering with competitor DMB Associates Inc. Zafu.com, a web even better in to build adjacent to the Palisene site. site dedicated Average Number Owned motion.” Fabric to helping choices clearly ● MOSS JOINS LINDA GAUNT: Courtney Moss has joined Linda women of all Size Size Size Size resonate with this Gaunt Communications, a New York-based strategic communi- sizes finding the consumer; two cations, marketing and public relations firm, as a director. Moss right fit in jeans, Total Females 0-6 7-11 12-14 15+ in three female has specialized in image marketing, p.r. and special events in bras and pants respondents sized the fashion and beauty industries for more than 15 years. For $77.78 $88.65 $82.05 $75.40 $64.93 the past three years, Moss has been fashion director at M Booth through a series 15 and up tell the Associates, overseeing p.r. and special events for J.C. Penney’s of personalized Monitor that they fashion brands. Earlier, she held senior posts at Christian questions. “One of the most important issues would pay more for a natural fiber, such as cotton. Dior, Tommy Hilfiger, Yves Saint Laurent Parfums and Giorgio that should be addressed is fit. The previous Fashion-forward styling, an attention to fit, an Armani and co-owned AndosciaMoss, a luxury goods p.r. firm. assumption has been that this consumer is curvy inviting shopping environment and a selection and that is just not the case; there are other body of sumptuous fabrics are just a few suggestions ● CREDIT CARD CONSENSUS: Neiman Marcus Group Inc. types that need to be taken into mind and why that will improve the apparel shopping process amended its credit card program agreement with HSBC last for plus size women. Addressing their needs is a week, ending a breach of contract lawsuit the retailer filed Zafu was created.” against the bank in February, according to a filing with the “Fit is about proportion, not about your size,” major business opportunity which will enrich the Securities and Exchange Commission. The retailer said the says Louise Wannier, a co-founder and the Chief retailers who redefine the economic principle of amendment would not have a material impact on future in- Executive Officer of MyShape.com, a women’s “supply curves”. come. Neiman Marcus filed the suit in Dallas County District fashion web site that promises customers an ultimately Court and won a temporary restraining order to prevent HSBC flattering fit. “Pay attention to proportions.” This story is one in a series of articles based on find- from canceling 192,000 credit card accounts that were said to An ability for this consumer to shop online is ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ represent potential sales of $500 million over two years. important, considers Newel. “Not only can she tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these ● CITY OF HOPE AWARD LUNCHEON: Pamela Dennis will show- find a more varied array of clothing in her size on pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it case her fall collection, ranging from luncheon suits to evenin- the internet, but she can use her home as a private relates to the American consumer and her attitudes gwear, as well as her new made-to-measure designs, at the City of dressing room. This customer tells us that retail and behavior regarding clothing, Hope Spirit of Life award luncheon today at the Waldorf-Astoria changing rooms are not a venue that she enjoys or appearance, fashion, fiber selection and in New York. The East End Chapter/Jeanne Kaye League event, feels best in.” 53% of female respondents wearing many other timely, relevant subjects. which raises more than $500,000 annually for cancer research and treatment, will honor Fox 5 news anchor Rosanna Scotto and I. Dolly Lenz, vice chairman of Prudential Douglas Elliman. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 3 WWD.COM Jones Income Drops 59.2% PPR, L’Oréal Complete YSL Deal By Vicki M. Young retail clients. Due to the slowdown in the PARIS — PPR and L’Oréal said He said a rash of promotions from fourth and fi rst quarters, there was an incre- Wednesday that they have finalized some competitors — like “buy one, get hares of Jones Apparel Group rose 5.5 mental increase in the amount of markdown the YSL Beauté licensing agreements one free” — has depressed category Spercent on Wednesday despite first- support that was refl ected in the company’s and the sale of the company under consumption somewhat, adding that quarter profits that were down because the fi rst-quarter margins. the terms announced on Jan. 23. The kind of spending is not sustainable. company saw improvement in the spring According to chief fi nancial offi cer John companies said they plan for an ef- By category, volume was up midsin- selling season. McClain, the company ended the quarter fective transfer at the end of June, gle digits in hair color behind the in- “I think what was encouraging, when the with $200 million in cash and $782 million following authorization from compe- troduction of Nice ‘n Easy Perfect 10 weather warmed in the fi rst part of April, of total debt, or $303 million less debt than tition authorities. and in cosmetics with the launch of was that we saw a defi nite pickup in our a year ago. While the sale of Barneys helped As reported, L’Oréal had proposed Cover Girl Lash Blast mascara front- retail sales,” said Wes Card, president and to pay down some of the fi rm’s short-term to pay PPR 1.15 billion euros, or $1.8 ed by Drew Barrymore. Retail hair chief executive offi cer. “[We had] lots of debt, the company also has been working on billion at current exchange, for YSL care volume was up midsingle digits, bright colors and the comps in our stores tighter management of its inventories. Beauté Holding, including its Roger & driven by high-teens growth on Head were in the black. That’s very encouraging In addition to the operations side, Card Gallet subsidiary. YSL Beauté is part & Shoulders and double-digit growth and we saw some pent-up demand.” has worked on bolstering the morale of the of the PPR subsidiary Gucci Group. of Rejoice, offset by softness of the Card said if the trend continues, it could company’s employees. Pantene brand in North America. “bode well” for a pickup in the back half of “I’ve been doing regular town hall meet- Prestige fragrance’s organic sales out- the year, particularly in the fourth quarter. ings. The strategy we’re working on is to paced industry sales and gained 9 per- This could enable the company to meet its dramatically step up our communication. In cent, driven by launches from Hugo own guidance at the top half of its range. BEAUTY BEAT Boss, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. Shares of Jones closed at $15.83 in — Molly Prior trading Wednesday on the New York Wes Card Now that the deal is done, L’Oréal Stock Exchange. obtains an exclusive and very long- The company updated its guidance to re- term worldwide license for the use Gurwitch Said Near RéVive Buy fl ect retailers’ overall conservative plans for of the YSL and Boucheron brands the back half of the year. For the full-year in the fragrance and cosmetics cat- NEW YORK — Gurwitch Products is 2008, Jones is expecting adjusted earnings egories, under market conditions. said to be close to acquiring upscale per share from continuing operations at be- Also under terms of the agreement, skin care brand RéVive, according to re- tween $1.20 and $1.35, versus 2007 adjusted L’Oréal will take over YSL Beauté’s ports circulating in the market. Houston- EPS of $1.26 from continuing operations. licenses for the Stella McCartney, based Gurwitch, which is owned by For the fi rst quarter ended April 5, in- Oscar de la Renta and Ermenegildo Alticor Inc., markets the Laura Mercier come fell by 59.2 percent to $19.5 million, or Zegna brands in the fragrance and color cosmetics assortment and the ac- 23 cents a diluted share, from $47.8 million, cosmetics categories. quisition of a specialty/department store or 44 cents, in the same year-ago quarter. PPR continues to own the Yves skin care brand could be seen as a move Excluding the effects of the sale of Barneys Saint Laurent, Boucheron and Stella to complement a color cosmetics brand New York and the impact of severance and McCartney brands. already present in the same channels of other costs related to the company’s stra- YSL Beauté’s brands will join distribution. RéVive, which was found- tegic initiatives, adjusted EPS from con- L’Oréal’s luxury division, which already ed in 1997, markets skin care products tinuing operations were 37 cents, versus 46 includes Lancôme, Biotherm, Helena that have an average price point of be- cents last year. Total revenues were down Rubinstein, Shu Uemura, Kiehl’s and tween $350 and $400 per product and is 9.6 percent to $975.4 million from $1.08 bil- Parfums Giorgio Armani, among others. thought to generate annual wholesale lion. Revenues included a 9.5 percent de- — Jennifer Weil sales of about $25 million. An industry crease in sales to $963.4 million from $1.06 source speculated that the selling price billion last year. Same-store sales at the August, we will have a new Internet site for could be less than twice total sales. company’s own stores were down 8.7 per- employees where they can tune into the news P&G Income Rises 8% cent for the quarter. events that affect the company,” Card said. The ceo also said that so far, Jones is In addition to an executive corner chat he Procter & Gamble Co. plans Shiseido Profi t Jumps 40% “very encouraged” by spring and beyond. on the site, the company will highlight em- Tto take a hard line against rising “The orders have held up well. Retailers are ployee news, such as the recognition pro- commodity and energy costs, with a TOKYO — Shiseido Co. Ltd. regis- ordering conservatively and more so for fall. gram that was rolled out on Tuesday. The spate of initiatives that includes rais- tered strong net and operating profi ts Some newness in the assortments will help program identifi es top-performing employ- ing prices, reformulating products for its most recent fi scal year ended with less promotions at retail,” Card said. ees, and includes a cash bonus for the as- and streamlining overhead. March 31, and said, while its domes- He also noted that the scenario the com- sociates cited. The company posted a third-quar- tic sales fell, those abroad — espe- pany is hoping for, and for which it is plan- Jones also is getting greener, working on ter profi t of 8 percent against the cially in China — percolated. ning, is one where there is better inventory initiatives such as recycling and using en- backdrop of a slowing economy. The Japanese beauty giant posted a control and fewer promotions at retail, in ergy-effi cient lightbulbs. It is undertaking a Net earnings for the quarter 40.2 percent year-on-year spike in net part so there’s a corresponding decrease broader study on what the company can do, ended March 31 were $2.7 billion, or profi ts to 35.46 billion yen, or $311.3 in the need for markdown support to Jones’ and asking employees for suggestions. 82 cents a diluted share, up from $2.5 million at average exchange, and a 26.9 billion, or 74 cents, in the prior year percent increase in operating profi ts on sales that gained 9.5 percent to to 63.47 billion yen, or $557.2 million. $20.5 billion from $18.7 billion. Shiseido attributed the rise in op- Beauty sales industrywide have erating profi ts to marginal gains due to Bloomingdale’s Avoids Strike at Flagship dampened and P&G’s beauty segment sales expansion, plus efforts to rein in posted net earnings that dipped 2 per- expenses. The company’s operating mar- By Sharon Edelson guarantee wages. cent to $589 million on a sales increase gin came in at 8.8 percent, surpassing The retailer’s employees at the fl agship Shiseido’s target of 8 percent or higher NEW YORK — A strike at Bloomingdale’s have received health benefi ts through a A.G. Lafl ey in fi scal 2007-08. It posted extraordinary 59th Street flagship has been averted — and fund jointly administered by labor and man- profi ts in the form of a gain on the sale well before the 11th hour. agement. The union said Bloomingdale’s of shares in Shiseido Logistics Co. Ltd. The management of Bloomingdale’s and wants to make changes in the health plan and Shiseido Lease Co. Ltd. leaders of Local 3 of the Retail, Wholesale that will shift more of the costs to employ- Shiseido’s net sales in the period and Department Store Union reached a ten- ees. Applebaum on Wednesday said the re- were 723.48 billion yen, or $6.35 billion, tative agreement, both sides said in a state- tailer and union continued negotiating “the up 4.2 percent. Its domestic cosmetics ment Wednesday. Details were not disclosed. health care piece and we’re optimistic we’ll revenues fell 1.9 percent to 439.02 bil- The union’s previous four-year contract fi nd a solution.” lion yen, or $3.85 billion, due to the expired on March 1, but talks had been ex- “When it became clear that the health cooling of consumer sentiment in the tended through Wednesday. The union had care plan would take significantly more second half of the period. Cosmetics authorized a strike if an agreement couldn’t time to negotiate than remained before sales generated abroad, meanwhile, be reached by 6 p.m. Wednesday. On Monday, the contract deadline, Bloomingdale’s and rose 17.6 percent to 263.7 billion yen, or Bloomingdale’s executives began discussing union negotiators agreed that an additional $2.31 billion. That business was driven contingency plans. It would have been the two weeks of in-depth review was the most by China, and got a boost from the effi rst strike at the store in 43 years. judicious move,” said Anne Keating, se- fects of a weaker yen. However, Bloomingdale’s and the union nior vice president of public relations for In China, Shiseido focused on its failed to reach an agreement on one issue — Bloomingdale’s. “Substantial work has been channel-specifi c brand strategy. For health care — and will continue to negotiate done to reach agreement on all the other of 9 percent to $4.7 billion and organic department stores, for instance, it that point for two more weeks. issues pertaining to this contract, and we sales growth of 3 percent, as a result centered attention on its Aupres and The tentative settlement is subject to rati- now look forward to continuing forthright, of slower market growth in prestige Supreme Aupres brands. And for self- fi cation by the union membership today. respectful talks on this fi nal point.” channels and higher commodity costs, service stores, Shiseido concentrated “We’ve agreed to everything except the “The [negotiations] are a lesson to said the company. on fostering its Urara business, lead- health plan,” said Stuart Applebaum, presi- other retailers in New York,” Applebaum During an earnings call with ana- ing to strong like-for-like sales. dent of RWDSU. “We’ve concluded most of said. “Retail is the job of entry for work- lysts, chairman and chief executive Elsewhere abroad, sales in the our negotiations, but will continue to negoti- ers in New York these days, with one out offi cer A.G. Lafl ey said, “In the past, Americas rose 7.6 percent to 59.33 bil- ate over the health plan for two more weeks, of every fi ve people working in retail. If we have seen a slowdown in more lion yen, or $520.8 million. In Europe, until midnight on May 15.” Bloomingdale’s is able to reach an agree- discretionary [beauty] categories and they rose 6.3 percent to 92.79 billion Besides health care, a major concern ment with a union, then other retailers can channels,” adding he was pleased that yen, or $814.6 million, and in the Asia- for the union was compensation. The union do the same. Bloomingdale’s is an icon in the fi rm’s cosmetics business held up Oceania region, they gained 16.3 percent objected to Bloomingdale’s proposal for New York. It sets the trend for other retail- well, particularly Cover Girl, which to 112.15 billion yen, or $984.5 million. merit increases and wanted the retailer to ers in the city.” gained share in the period. — Koji Hirano 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 WWD.COM

Liv Tyler Michael J. Fox with Jay McInerney with Ilana Milicevic in inin StellaStella Tracy Pollan in Christy Turlington Ports 1961 at McCartney. Carolina Herrera. in Chanel. Ione Skye’s home.

Tabitha Simmons and Craig McDean at Ago. The Home Stretch Christy Turlington may have just gotten back from a yoga retreat at Parrot Cay with husband Ed Burns and their kids, but all that stretching didn’t prepare her for the onslaught of reporters before the dinner that Chanel Blake Lively in Chanel. hosted to celebrate the artist program of New York’s Tribeca Film Festival. “I feel like I’m at a junket,” said the supermodel, laughing, surveying a room, which was packed with scribes and photographers. “But I’m just happy that I didn’t have to go uptown.” Other guests, like Natasha Richardson, sought refuge in the lobby, or opted for the patio, like Mary-Kate Olsen, who slipped out and started drinking Amstel Light. Meanwhile, Mamie Gummer came to support dad Don Gummer, one of the artists tapped for this year’s program, which supplies the prizes for the fi lm festival. “We came in the family Volvo,” she said. “We live just around the corner.” The actress, daughter of Meryl Streep, is currently making her Broadway debut in the Roundabout Theatre’s production of “Les Liaison Dangereuses,” which opens tonight. “I don’t have that big of a part,” she demurred. “There’s a lot of downtime, so I go on Facebook and Google.” Aerin Lauder and As for “Gossip Girl” Blake Lively, she was living out the part of the budding Michael Kors starlet to a T: She arrived late with on-screen boyfriend (and rumored offscreen squeeze) Penn Badgley, and left through Ago’s side door, paparazzi in hot pursuit. Nearby, Robert Downey Jr. was calling the Cinema Society and Michael Kors’ showing of “Iron Man” on Monday night “the tastemakers screening.” But the audience was whooping so loud throughout it you thought you were seeing it right in Times Square. “It was the best antiwar action movie I’ve ever seen,” said Tracey Ullman, who mingled with Downey’s co-star Amy Sacco in Gwyneth Paltrow as well as Terrence Howard, Diana Ross, Aerin Lauder, Dolce & Gabbana. ▲ Gwyneth Liv Tyler and Leelee Sobieski at the after party at Odeon. Paltrow Jon Favreau, who directed the fi lm about a weapons manufacturer in Stella who turns on his own company to destroy weapons his employer has sold McCartney. to terrorists in the Middle East, was happy people liked the movie, but thought its message was secondary at best. “I made the movie because my last one [“Zathura”] was a fl op and I wanted to make something people would actually see,” he explained. The same night, singer Estelle drew an eclectic crowd to Bette to fete her new album “Shine.” Amy Sacco and Morris and Jaci Reid hosted the dinner also attended by John Legend, Estelle’s musical fairy godfather, and a crowd of uptown socials (Jennifer Creel), designers (Domenico Dolce and Thom Browne) and stars (Ellen Barkin). On Tuesday, The New York City Ballet kicked off its season-long Jerome Robbins Celebration at its annual spring gala. Balletomanes including Ethan Hawke, Michael J. Fox and Lauren Bacall fi led into Lincoln Center for the three-part performance, the fi nale of which included a tribute to Robbins’ “West Side Story.” “Now we’re going to be singing all the way through dinner,” said Hawke afterward. Valentino, Fé Fendi, and Nina Griscom all Brice and Helen ▲ Estelle in declared “The Four Seasons” — Robbins’ contemporary choreography set to the classical Marden at Ago. Burberry. stylings of Verdi — their favorite. “I’m not a Broadway person,” Griscom explained. “Yes, Nina hates the West Side,” her husband, real estate broker Leonel Piraino, chimed in. “Oh, wait, I thought you were talking about neighborhoods.” In Los Angeles, a gaggle of neo-hippies gathered at Ione Skye’s Laurel Canyon hideaway Friday when Lucky magazine hosted a party for actress-designer Alexia EYE SCOOP Landau’s line, Webster. As Skye and other second-generation Angelenos Natasha SELLING UP: Cornelia Guest is moving: She’s put her historic Gregson Wagner, Tatiana von Furstenberg and Amy Fleetwood found shady spots on the family manse, Templeton in Old Westbury, N.Y., on the patio, the line’s namesake, Landau’s pug Webster held court poolside with his canine market for $20 million. The house, on 15 acres, has 28 Charlotte Moss in pals, who came with their owners, artists Konstantin Kakanias and actress Leonor rooms, including 11 bedrooms, six full baths, a barn, Ralph Rucci at Varela (Skye sent her two dogs to day care for the afternoon). greenhouses, tennis court, swimming pool and formal Lincoln Center. gardens. “It’s just a magical home,” said Guest, who plans Valentino to fi nd another house nearby and now divides her time between New York and Los Angeles for her acting Winston and career. “I grew up there, C.Z. Guest at but now I’m looking forward Templeton. to creating a place of my own.” Templeton occupies a major place in New York social history as the home of Guest’s parents, C.Z. and Winston, who hosted everyone from the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to Andy Warhol and Truman Capote to Gloria Guinness. C.Z. Guest was often photographed there, most Nora Zehetner in Webster notably in the iconic shots Domenico Dolce at Ione Skye’s home. of her taken by Slim Aarons. ESTELLE PARTY AND NYCB PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD; CHANEL BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN; WEBSTER BY AMY GRAVES; IRON MAN BY JIMI CELESTE IRON MAN BY AMY GRAVES; WHALEN; WEBSTER BY KRISTEN SOMODY SCOTT RUDD; CHANEL BY PHOTOS BY AND NYCB ESTELLE PARTY

6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 L’Ecole de Rock INDIO, Calif. — For four girls who’ve just played the biggest — and Parisienne, but it’s a little staid for her taste. “It’s way easier to dress as you steamiest — gig of their lives, the Plastiscines are remarkably fresh-faced want [in the U.S.],” she says. “In Paris, people are stylish, but in a classical and composed. It’s Sunday afternoon following the French band’s set at the way. Like, Katty wouldn’t wear that on the street in Paris,” Louise explains, scorching Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival last weekend. Given pointing to her friend’s electric blue frock. the great looks and apparent good taste of the girls — Marine Neuilly, Katty Katty, the chanteuse with the dress in question, also functions as the Besnard, Louise Basilien and Anaïs Vandeuyvere — it’s hard to imagine any group’s in-house stylist, which is fi ne by the rest of them. “We don’t try to be of them caught in, say, an Amy Winehouse situation. It’s also hard to believe really stylish,” quips drummer Anaïs, who’s wearing a retro Nike halter and this soft-spoken foursome just served up a half hour of garage punk rock — denim shorts from her favorite British High Street chain, Primark. Anaïs, 20, distortion, fist-pumping and all. is the band’s third drummer in three years, and met the girls via MySpace Looking no worse for wear is guitarist Marine, still clad in the slouchy last year. “I saw that they needed a new drummer, so I said, ‘Why not?’ and I leopard-print tank, Levi’s cutoffs and leggings in which she performed. “It’s messaged them,” she says. like a dream to play here,” says the kohl-eyed 20-year-old, who cofounded Notes Louise: “Before meeting Anaïs, we tried other drummers, but it the group with her grade school pal and lead singer, Katty, three years never worked out.” But don’t mention that “Bootylicious” revolving door ago. “I mean, we’re from Paris,” she says, “and to play at an American known as Destiny’s Child — “No!” says Louise, “It’s more like a ‘Spinal festival like Coachella, where loads of the bands we like have played, it’s Tap’ thing!” unbelievable!” The Plastiscines’ debut album, “LP1” (Virgin France), recorded with Katty, 21, sporting a Nancy Sinatra bouffant and blue fringe dress, nods then-drummer Zazie Tavitian, is a 13-track, Ramones-style romp with a dose in agreement. “We try not to think about the pressure of it all,” she says. of gamine charm. The band’s playful, sing-song-punk sound, with tracks And it turns out shopping is the perfect distraction, at least for her and such as “Pop In, Pop Out!” and “Zazie fait de la bicyclette,” has garnered bassist Louise, 20. Case in point: Katty’s fringed frock, which she and Louise comparisons to the Gainsbourg-fueled yé-yé music of the Sixties. But, found at a vintage shop in San Francisco the day before. On another recent adorable and guileless though they appear, the girls, whose second album is shopping spree, Louise picked up a few baby-doll prairie dresses — “You in the works, are all about the rock ’n’ roll. know, Laura Ingalls dresses.” “I don’t really like [fashion] shoots,” Louise claims during a pause in “I like to mix everything — Seventies, Sixties and Nineties stuff,” says the shooting for WWD. “We’re not models, we’re a band. I mean, we’re girls and statuesque Louise, who joined the band after meeting Marine and Katty at people like the idea of girls in a band, but I think this kind of a thing…it’s a a Libertines show. “I really like Patti Smith’s style and Debbie Harry’s style, little boring.” but I don’t have one specifi c infl uence.” Of course she appreciates la mode — Nick Axelrod

On Anaïs: Grace Sun’s silk dress. Jenny Dayco necklace; all other jewelry from Glam Rock; Shane Shawn shoes. On Katty: Nuj Novakhett’s silk dress. On Marine: Kate and Kass’ silk dress. Colcci boots. On Louise: Nikka’s silk dress. Chinese Laundry sandals.

Shot on location at Anthem Magazine’s 2008 Coachella party, presented by Levi’s. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Geren Ford’s silk dress. Jenny Dayco necklace; Glam Rock necklace.

On Katty: Nuj Novakhett’s silk dress. Jenny Dayco necklace. On Marine: Issa’s silk chiffon shirt dress. Glam Rock bracelet. : KATHRYN HADEKA AND JILLIAN PRADO; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI STYLED BY HADEKA AND JILLIAN PRADO; : KATHRYN

Akiko Ogawa’s Whitley Kros’ silk silk, lace and top and Levi’s denim tulle dress. Jenni shorts. H&M tights. Kayne pumps. PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ @ PHOTOGENICS BEAUTY AT SMASHBOX; MAKEUP BY ROBIN BLACK FOR MAC; FASHION ASSISTANTS ROBIN BLACK FOR MAC; FASHION SMASHBOX; MAKEUP BY AT JOHNNY STUNTZ @ PHOTOGENICS BEAUTY HAIR BY HELLIN KAY; PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 WWD.COM Denim Report Calvin Klein Collections Say Hello to Dubai By Ekta Sawiani and Ritu Upadhyay DUBAI — Calvin Klein Inc. is on the road again. The fashion house last week held its fi rst event in Dubai to introduce the spring collections of ck Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein. The event is part of the brand’s continuing series of international installations, which in the past have been held in Tokyo, Shanghai, Beijing and London. More than 300 guests were invited to the lifestyle installation by Kevin Carrigan, the creative director of ck Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans, and Tom Murry, president and chief operating offi cer of Calvin Klein Inc., at the Four Seasons Golf Club. The club’s lounge was transformed into a gallerylike installation featuring 15 live models who were elevated on steel pedestals and enclosed in transparent Plexiglas columnar displays, giving the event a futuristic feel. The minimalist installation was in unique contrast in a city known for its opulence and penchant for over-the-top design. “There is an appreciation of di- versity and different styles here. Dubai wants to be perceived as an ultramodern city, as a city of the future. There is an understanding here between opulence and minimalism,” said Carrigan. The brands featured in the show included ck Calvin Klein apparel, accessories, footwear, watches and jewelry; Calvin Klein Jeans apparel and accessories, and Calvin Klein underwear and eyewear. Some of the accessories and underwear were displayed on mini glistening sand dunes within the columnar installations, while others were worn by the models. Calvin Klein fragrances launched the new Euphoria Intense scent and the new ck Calvin Klein line of color cosmetics, due to be launched in the region this month at the Debenhams department store in the Mall of the Emirates and previewed on the female models. In addition, the ck Calvin Klein men’s and women’s footwear offering was previewed in advance of the line’s arrival at retail for the fi rst time in the United Arab Emirates this fall. Here and bottom left: Live models The event was attended by a number of celebrities and members of Dubai so- stood in Plexiglas columnar ciety, including Middle Eastern singer Diana Haddad; model Jelena Jakovljevic displays in Calvin Klein’s lifestyle Bin Drai; Mohi-din Binhendi, president of BinHendi Enterprises; Lebanese de- installationinstallation inin Dubai.Dubai. signer Walid Atala, and fi lm director Nahla Al Fahad. Calvin Klein has had a presence in the Dubai market for several years. Kevin Carrigan with models. However, the recent boom in the region’s infrastructure, economy, population and tourism has attracted many major fashion houses. Murry said Dubai is a natural destination for the brand. “There is so much growth in the region and the nucleus of that is in Dubai.” There are 18 freestanding stores in the Middle East, nine of which are in Dubai. The Calvin Klein brand is growing market share seasonally in the region. The Middle East represented approximately $50 million in retail sales last year. The company’s total sales for 2007 were $5.4 billion. A new Calvin Klein Collection store will open at the Dubai Mall early this fall. Murry commented that, for an emerging market with a small population, the company does a high amount of Collection sales, refl ecting the spending power in the Middle East. Though the perception of the Middle Eastern consumer may be conservative, according to Murry, the company by and large has the same product mix in the region as it does in Europe. But Carrigan explained that there are regional modifi cations to the garments. “We do have to take into account climate, body fi t and color. I’ll take the same sketch and make modifi cations for different markets.” An area where the company is sensitive to the conservative nature of Middle Eastern society is in the display of their product. “We can’t always use the same ad images that we do in other markets in this part of the world,” said Murry. Local operators of Calvin Klein Underwear stores have sometimes faced fi nes if window displays were deemed too risqué. There seem to be no steadfast rules for what is allowed and what isn’t, leaving retailers to tread a fi ne line of cultural sensitivity. This was the case at Thursday’s exhibit, where underwear was not actually worn by the models, but artfully displayed on piles of sand.

Tom Murry

Dianna Haddad and Mohi-din Binhendi PHOTOS BY NICK HAIG AND SARES EL-JAMMAL PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 9 WWD.COM The Beat THE NEW ASME TEAM: Members of the American Society of Magazine Editors (ASME) are about to get tired of seeing one another’s faces, what MEMO PAD with the steady lineup of events culminating in the National Magazine Awards tonight. At an ASME lunch Wednesday, Runner’s World editor in chief and Running Times Majoring In editorial director David Willey was offi cially elected as president, replacing Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive, and the board elected three new members: Larry Hackett, managing editor of People; James B. Meigs, editor in chief of Popular Mechanics, and Diane Salvatore, editor in chief of Ladies’ Home Journal. All this took place atop the Hearst Tower, just before a panel on political Classics coverage moderated by NBC’s Brian Williams, who remarked, “Being here reminds Banana Republic us from NBC of our Dunder-Miffl in third-fl oor newsroom.” (Extra points for the is celebrating its NBC sitcom plug). The panel, featuring The New Republic’s Michelle Cottle, Rolling Stone’s Matt Taibbi 30th anniversary and The Nation’s Katrina vanden Heuvel, alternated between outright befuddlement with snappy, classic at the unpredictability of the election narrative and hand-wringing at some of the offerings. “This coverage. “The ABC debate touched a nerve,” said vanden Heuvel. “It came to collection refl ects represent the debasement of a media system that is failing to inform.” Williams, in iconic separates — partial defense of his own home network and cable news channel, asked how the argument could be made in today’s world that not enough information is out there. the crisp white shirt, Vanden Heuvel in turn cited the phrase, “an orgy of multiplatfornication,” indicating indispensable black that the volume and ubiquity of information didn’t indicate that people were better- dress and timeless informed about what matters. Taibbi agreed, saying, “Voters take their cues about trench — reimagined what to take seriously from us, the media.” — Irin Carmon for fall 2008,” THANKFUL FOR THE WEB: The Internet certainly came to the rescue at Time Inc. in Alessandra Brunialti, the fi rst quarter. In Time Warner Inc.’s fi rst-quarter earnings call on Wednesday, vice president of chief executive offi cer Jeff Bewkes noted Time Inc. is the only division that has women’s design, been negatively impacted by the bad economy — but online ad revenues were able stated postshow. to offset the poor performance of the company’s print advertising. The division’s overall revenues were essentially fl at at $1 billion, boosted by online sales at The lineup included people.com and CNNMoney.com. sheath dresses with No wonder Time Inc. doesn’t plan to postpone any of its digital initiatives for architectural seaming, the balance of the year, which will include a redesign of Real Simple’s Web site skinny pleated pants in the fall. John Squires, executive vice president, Time Inc., said Wednesday that and an ode to le in the next few years, the company wants digital to represent 20 to 30 percent of each title’s bottom line. smoking with tuxedo- A few hours after its earnings were released, Squires, along with executives and inspired looks. editors from instyle.com, SI.com and CNNMoney.com, provided an update on the Brunialti opted for progress made so far. Amy Keohane, senior vice president, In Style digital, and Gail a neutral palette of Horwood, executive director, instyle.com, said that year-over-year (as of March), the black, gray and white, site is up 128 percent in page views, to 61 million on average and visitors spend more minutes (9.7) browsing instyle.com than the sites for Allure, Elle, Style.com, with the exception of Marie Claire and Glamour, which had visitors spending an average of 9.4 minutes, two fuchsia cocktail according to Media Metrix, from January 2007 through February 2008. dresses, which A redesigned video channel is coming in the second quarter for instyle.com stood out in a sea of and a celebrity makeup match, which allows visitors to buy products and get minimalism. tips and trend information. Magazine readers can now also shop the site by each issue. Since November, its shopping channel has generated $2.5 million in retail revenue. — Amy Wicks

PEDDLING PILLS?: What does an out of work fashion director do between gigs? How about judging design contests as a fashion guru for the best dressed…birth control case? That’s what Nina Garcia’s next project is, according to a press release on Wednesday from Yaz unveiling its “Step Up and Go Beyond” contest. The contest, a partnership with nonprofi t group Step Up Women’s Network and Bayer HealthCare Pharamaceuticals, calls on “designer hopefuls everywhere to submit contemporary and fashionable packaging concepts for the oral contraceptive.” The winner will get $10,000 and be revealed around the time of New York Fashion Week. But what does Garcia know about package design? According to her quotes in the release, the package is like a designer wallet. “We’re taking an iconic accessory — the birth control case — and asking aspiring designers to take a shot at redesigning it into a chic, more sophisticated carrying case that they could slip into their purses,” said Garcia. The release also lists her qualifi cations, including her public relations gig at Perry Ellis, and her experience at Elle and Mirabella, as well as her participation in “Project Runway.” Is the former editor just hedging her bets in case her relationship with Elle is completely severed? Talks are said to be continuing with the magazine on whether she’ll take an at-large position until Elle’s contract with “Project Runway” expires at the end of season fi ve. Meanwhile, fashion insiders were buzzing at spotting Garcia exiting the Hearst Tower, causing some to wonder if she was interviewing for a job at Harper’s Bazaar. A spokeswoman for the magazine said: “The editors of Harper’s Bazaar really like and respect Nina, but she was not here to meet with them.” — Stephanie D. Smith

MEN ARE FROM VENUS, WOMEN ARE FROM MARS: As it turns out, it’s not easy to fi ll a room with men’s magazine editors willing to pay $125 to hear from editors in chief over dinner, so Mediabistro made its fi rst foray into a men’s magazine- oriented networking dinner with a “Skirts and Slacks” combination: three editors in chief of men’s magazines (Playboy, Maxim and Details) and three from women’s (Marie Claire, Glamour and Elle, with executive editor Alex Postman fi lling in for Robbie Myers, on set at “Ugly Betty” for a cameo). In the panel on the magazine gender divide, Postman observed that while women’s magazines tended to a politically correct tone, men’s magazines delighted in outrageousness and political incorrectness. She could have been describing the panel — Postman, Marie Claire’s Joanna Coles and Glamour’s Cindi Leive didn’t mince words, per se, but they did publicly give each other’s magazines the benefi t of the doubt and talk collectively, while the men’s magazine editors kept it lively with shots at absent competitors. Playboy’s Chris Napolitano joked about Esquire putting George Clooney on the cover “every other month,” and Maxim’s Jim Kaminsky ribbed GQ for a Mitt Romney story that appeared after he had left the race. (Details’ Dan Peres abstained, and pointed out that fact from the dais.) The men’s editors conceded their titles had edged towards women’s territory with increasing service coverage, and Leive said women’s magazines had adopted the humor, or at least the light tone, once reserved for men’s magazines. But when it came to what Coles termed “the lipstick and slavery alongside each other” dilemma, she said that was a function of women’s complex and contradictory lives. And, she told the men on the panel, the juxtaposition of service and seriousness was increasingly going to be their problem as men became more “beholden to product usage.” — I.C. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 WWD.COM goods expo, and the four-day annual eyewear event Mido, which kicks off on May 9. Next year Micam, Mipel and Mido will be held the same week in March, with the trio expected to attract 100,000 visitors. VITAL STATS “By anticipating the dates, we are further linking eyewear and the fashion system,” said Dan Emanuele Levi, vice president of Anfao, or- CITY POPULATION: 1.34 ganizer of Mido. Unica will move to new fairgrounds Rho in 2009, where million, Italy’s second the other trade shows are held, and a fast train connecting the Rho fair- biggest city after Rome. grounds to Malpensa airport is under construction. Another key attraction is Milan’s design week in April, which nets 300,000 visitors. METROPOLITAN AREA New architectural works in progress include development of the old fair- POPULATION: More than grounds site east of Milan’s center. Dubbed CityLife, the area will have a trio 7.4 million. of skyscrapers designed by Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki and Daniel Libeskind. The 40 million euro ($58.5 million) project, expected to fi nish in 2012, fea- AVERAGE ANNUAL tures a new museum of contemporary art, also designed by Libeskind. PRIME RETAIL RENT: In the same neighborhood and near Corso Como, home to multibrand $364 per square foot. FROM boutique 10 Corso Como, the much-anticipated Città Della Moda is ex- ER pected to open by 2011. The “Fashion City” complex of showrooms, edu- MAJOR LOCAL T INDUSTRIES: Textiles T cational facilities, catwalk spaces and stores is primarily aimed to foster E and garments,

L Italy’s young up-and-coming fashion designers. Not surprisingly, Milan is Italy’s shopping mecca, too. Spearheading chemicals, cars, 8 0 mechanical tools, 0 the city’s retail panorama is the fabled “Golden Triangle,” three streets , 2 MILAN 1 MILAN MAY — Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and Via Sant’Andrea — packed heavy machinery, iron with luxury boutiques. and steel, tourism, According to Mark Lee, Gucci’s chief executive officer, its shipbuilding, fi nance. 18,000-square-foot store on Via Montenapoleone is among its top three Milan is seat of the owned and operated stores in terms of revenues. Italian stock exchange, “Milan is a long-standing successful location for Gucci,” said Lee. Borsa Italiana, and The Florence-based brand has another two stores in the city, “making home to fabled Milan one of the most important cities in the world for Gucci.” automotive company Other retailers in the city are revamping. Italy’s historic luxury depart- Alfa Romeo. ment store La Rinascente spruced up its fl agship opposite the Duomo ● in 2006; upgraded its merchandise to include brands like Louis Vuitton, Long renowned as a Marc Jacobs, Gucci and Bulgari, and recently added a food emporium on world capital of design the top fl oor. “Tourists are responding very well — it’s natural for them to and fashion, the English shop in a city’s department store and fi nd these brands — but so are the word “milliner” is derived Milanese customers,” said Vittorio Radice, ceo of La Rinascente. from the city’s name. This year, another Italian department store chain, Coin, overhauled ● its Milan fl agship, and its glass exterior twinkles with LED lights and The Piazza Duomo a video wall, and design pieces by Jasper Morrison and Arne Jacobsen is possibly the world’s decorate some of its nine new-look fl oors. oldest shopping mall. Counterbalancing the luxury offerings, Hennes & Mauritz and Zara ● Milan’s glass-domed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, built in the late 19th century. are rapidly multiplying in Milan’s prime central retail spaces. The Lombard Last month, H&M redesigned the interior of its fi rst Italian store in metropolis is famous Milan’s Piazza San Babila, opened in 2003. The brighter space sports for its fashion houses playful illustrations on the walls. In the same week, the Swedish fast- and shops along Via fashion chain opened another 14,000-square-foot centrally located Montenapoleone and Italy’s Shopping Mecca the Galleria Vittorio Milanese store. “We’ve fi lled a gap in terms of price point here,” said Emanuele. By Stephanie Epiro Margareta Van Den Bosch, creative advisor of H&M, adding the San Babila location carried H&M’s “trend concept” — exclusively selling ● OFTEN DERIDED AS ROME’S UGLY SISTER, MILAN IS GETTING A fashion-focused smaller lines. “We defi nitely want to expand in Milan, The Piazza del facelift equal to its fashionable reputation. it’s a fashion-centric city so it’s a good way to gauge our success.” Duomo cathedral was The city may lack crumbling ruins and scenic vistas the Italian capital While Milan’s center carries retail clout, a Goliath 1.9 billion euro ($2.8 commissioned in 1386 boasts, but it is experiencing an urban renaissance, partly inspired by its billion) project by private Italian fi rm Risanamento to build a second city, and is the world’s fourth- recent winning bid to host the Expo world’s fair in 2015. dubbed Milano Santa Giulia, on the site of a former steel mill southeast of largest church. the center is attracting big names. Architect Lord Norman Foster planned There’s no doubting the importance of fashion to Milan. Italy’s fash- ● ion powerhouses — Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Ferré, the city, expected to open in 2012. Apart from offi ce and residential build- The Convento di Santa Missoni and Versace — are all headquartered here, in an industry ings, there will be 1 million square feet of retail space, including a 5,000-foot Maria delle Grazie is boasting income of 6.6 billion euros ($9.6 billion at current exchange) promenade of restaurants and shops, including La Rinascente and Zara. where Leonardo da and 22,500 employees last year. A piazza connected to the promenade, reportedly codesigned by Vinci painted his “Last “Milan is a small city but integral to the fashion industry. Italian Jean Nouvel, will be home to 60 luxury shops. Dolce & Gabbana will Supper” in 1498. fashion is the bread and butter of the industry,” observed Mario Boselli, occupy two stores. Dino Bottari, retail director of the project, divulged three high-end French ready-to-wear brands and a fi ve-star hotel re- SOURCES: CITYMAYORS.COM, president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion. ABOUTMILAN.COM, Fashion is the fulcrum of Milan’s vibrant trade-show calendar as well, cently signed leases in the square. “This will be a new frontier for shop- ANSWERS.COM. featuring the biannual textile fair Unica, Micam shoe fair and Mipel leather ping in Milan,” said Bottari.

6:30 p.m., where drinks are accompanied by a SCENE free buffet — usually chips, olives, bruschetta, Nameplates pasta, salamis and cheeses. Every bar in the Doing It Milan Style city serves its version of aperitivo, but Bar Basso The girls of brand-conscious Milan like their accessories — on Via Plinio 39 patented its own drink for the bags, sunglasses, scarves and boots — oversize, ● FASHION FRONTIERS: Living a fashion-brand popular Milan pastime: The negroni sbagliato, and preferably bearing a designer’s name. lifestyle is easy in Milan, where many houses a mix of Campari, vermouth and Champagne, have expanded their empires with eateries, bars is served in a fi shbowl-size glass with a hunk and hotels. Often spotted sipping a cocktail at his of ice and an orange slice. Like every Italian bar, Nobu, Giorgio Armani will open his fi rst hotel city, Milan has regional dishes. Favorites show on Via Manzoni next year. Bulgari the city’s Northern European Hotel’s garden is the place to infl uences, from fried and drink a balsamic vinegar-spiked breaded veal cutlet, or cotoletta, Bloody Mary at sunset, and its to buttery saffron-rich risotto alla spa offers the best four-handed Milanese, often served with slowly massage in town. Domenico cooked veal casserole osso buco. Dolce and Stefano Gabbana gave Milan’s nightlife a shot ● LEONARDO’S LEGACY: Milan’s of glamour when they opened most famous — and arguably Gold, a gilded temple housing only — historical attraction two restaurants and two bars. pinpoints the center of the city. The design duo also recently The Duomo, a wedding cake of a refurbished their alfresco Martini Gothic cathedral that was recently cocktail bar behind their men’s A negroni sbagliato, unveiled from a decadelong store on Corso Venezia. Trussardi the signature drink at makeover, is best viewed over recently reopened its cafe next Milan’s Bar Basso. a glass of Chianti from La door to La Scala, which features Rinascente’s bar on the eighth a pair of growing vertical garden walls designed fl oor. White marble used to construct the church by Patrick Blanc. Its upstairs restaurant, Trussardi was fl oated down the Navigli — the city’s canals. alla Scala, won a Michelin star last year. Prada, Today, the southern canal district is a hotbed meanwhile, is eschewing the hospitality industry of bars, vintage and design stores. Meanwhile, for art, and plans to open a contemporary gallery Leonardo da Vinci left his imprint on Milan with in the city by 2011. his iconic “Last Supper,” or “L’Ultima Cena,” painted on a wall of a former dining hall next to ● ART OF APERITIVO: To the Milanese, aperitif the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Advance isn’t just a predinner drink and bowl of peanuts. reservations are required to see the masterpiece.

Aperitivo is a cocktail hour or two, starting from — S.E. SAKIS LALASPHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 11 WWD.COM Kohl’s Easing Pace of Store Expansion Continued from page one ware, dinnerware and kitchen the huge sell-throughs. He said Larry man and ceo of Penney’s, said the The $16.5 billion Kohl’s has gadgets was launched in some the company was rolling out Montgomery retailer is whittling fall inventory been adding 95 to 100 stores annu- stores about 10 days ago and will new exclusives in a methodical, in response to the tough econom- ally in recent years, but will open be in all stores by May 15. Early organized manner. ic environment. only about 75 stores this year be- sales are good, Montgomery Fila and Dana Buchman are “We believe we will be below cause of the economic climate. By said. Elle, meanwhile, has been the next two promising exclu- last year’s dollar inventory by the the end of the year, the company expanded to all stores, after sives, Montgomery said. Fila end of back-to-school,” Ullman will reach 1,000 stores, includ- bowing last fall in 450 stores. Sport will launch in all stores said. “We’re certainly more cau- ing an entry into the Miami-Fort The Elle brand will be extended in September in men’s, women’s tious now than we would have Lauderdale market. Last year, to footwear and handbags in se- and children’s. Dana Buchman been even six months ago as we Kohl’s opened 112 stores. lect markets this fall, said Kohl’s will become an exclusive Kohl’s look at fall.” Kohl’s is not alone in scaling president Kevin Mansell. brand in spring 2009, with a col- Nonetheless, Ullman said back store openings. Last month, All of the expansion of ex- lection of women’s apparel, inti- he thought fall selling would be J.C. Penney said it would reduce clusive labels will come at the mates, accessories and footwear. “more positive” than last year openings to 36, from 50, leading expense of national brands, Kohl’s said it continues to and was somewhat optimistic that to a savings of $200 million in Montgomery said. evolve its store design. Some of very conservative sales esti- holiday results will be better, too. capital expenditures. Penney’s Kohl’s same-store sales de- the new stores will have the lat- mates while continuing to invest Ullman also said he sees fur- has slated 20 major store reno- creased 3.2 percent for the nine est design innovations that the the necessary resources to en- ther retail consolidation. “My vations, down from the 65 origi- weeks ended April 5, and com- company unveiled at a new store sure our profi table growth over guess is there will be 10 to 20 nally planned. parable-store sales decreased in Grafton, Wis., in April. The the long term,” said Montgomery companies that will fi nd it very As competitors close stores, 11.1 percent. juniors department has wood during the hour-long meeting at- diffi cult to get through this pe- Kohl’s, based in Menomonee fl ooring and a fl at-screen TV in tended by some 1,000 people. In riod,” he said, adding that fi ne Falls, Wis., will take advantage its upgraded fi tting room area. addition to shareholders, Kohl’s jewelers, home stores and re- of real estate opportunities, said For the first time, Kohl’s has invites an associate from every gional players short on cash Montgomery. “We have a pecking brought accessories into the ju- store to attend, as well as execu- were especially vulnerable. order,” he said, but he declined niors area as part of its strategic tives from headquarters. “The strong get stronger dur- to say which competitor’s loca- initiative to encourage cross-de- A shareholder from Madison, ing these periods and we do ex- tions were on his list. partmental shopping. The store Wis., asked whether the com- pect to gain market share during Despite the diffi cult economy, also has an upgraded intimates pany was considering providing this period,” Ullman asserted. exclusive brands are the fastest- department, with draperies on Internet access in stores so cus- “We believe [product] fl ow is growing part of Kohl’s business, display walls and columns for a tomers who can’t fi nd an item the secret to improving our gross Montgomery said, calling the Kohl’s Web site featuring Simply Vera more feminine look. can place an order on kohls.com profi t…because we believe we performance “spectacular.” Vera Wang. Kohl’s will decide on how while in the store. Montgomery have trend-right merchandise Chaps sales are rising by much of this design to incorporate said such a plan is part of Kohl’s delivered more frequently in a double digits, despite new com- For the fourth quarter ended into new stores in the future after efforts to promote cross-channel shorter cycle time,” he noted. petition from Penney’s launch Feb. 2, Kohl’s reported that prof- determining whether the changes shopping. He said the company On Wednesday, Penney’s stock of American Living, a Ralph its fell 15 percent to $411.7 mil- improve sales, Montgomery said. plans to place kiosks in stores closed at $42.50, down $1.17, or 2.7 Lauren brand, Montgomery lion from $484.6 million a year Kohl’s will announce plans for that would take online orders. percent, while Kohl’s stock closed said. Rollouts of names such as ago, when the quarter included next year in August, along with its Meanwhile, in a Wednesday at 48.65, off $1.61, or 3.2 percent, Elle, Simply Vera Vera Wang, one additional week, while second-quarter earnings report. presentation at Lehman Brothers’ on the New York Stock Exchange. Food Network and others have sales inched up 0.7 percent to “We are planning inventory annual retail conference in New — With contributions from pushed the percentage of brands $5.49 billion from $5.45 billion. levels and expenses based upon York, Myron Ullman 3rd, chair- Holly Haber, Dallas exclusive to Kohl’s from zero For the full year, Kohl’s earn- three years ago to nearly 11 per- ings slid 2.2 percent to $1.08 bil- cent at the end of last year. lion, as sales rose 5.6 percent Kohl’s’ private label brands to $16.47 billion. In both the accounted for 28 percent of total fourth quarter and the full year, sales in 2007. This year, Kohl’s ex- the accessories department led pects the combined percentage of Kohl’s results with comp-store private and exclusive brands to sales increases, while men’s ap- increase to as much as 41 percent parel and footwear also beat the of sales, driven by growth of Elle, store’s overall results, leaving Food Network and Simply Vera the women’s apparel and home Vera Wang, as well as new prod- departments lagging. ucts from Bobby Flay, Jumping Montgomery said Wednesday Beans and Fila Sport. that exclusive brands have the Bobby Flay’s line of cook- best gross margins because of

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Last year, retail sales in China rose by 17 percent to $1.2 trillion — further evidence, if any was needed, that it’s a market with unprecedented growth. TheWWDList The Bergström Report, which analyzes the lifestyles and consumerism of Chinese youth ages 15 to 25, has released the top factors young shoppers look for when buying a product. “The goal of this report is to help Chinese youth be better understood by developers and marketers,” said Mary Bergstrom. Consumers are looking for products that are authentic, which will help them demonstrate their status, she added. “Status is critical China’s Youth Appeal in China. And they’re buying high-end items. They live at home and are The top 10 factors young Chinese consumers consider when buying willing to save to buy things that will give them a higher social status merchandise in a store. amongst their peers.” — Cecily Hall

QUALITY Amount of respondents who said they consider this a factor when shopping: 77 percent “People don’t necessarily associate young shoppers as being quality conscious,” said Bergstrom, founder of Bergström Trends and author of the Bergström Report. “But in China, this has to do with the country’s history, where families are conscious of what they buy and do not want to be 1 wasteful.” She also pointed out that for retailers, the message here is that backing their products is essential. “China’s youth may be internationally savvy, but they still have elements that are very Chinese that still speak to their culture,” Bergstrom added.

PROMOTIONS 69 percent “This factor is what I consider to be uniquely Chinese,” said Bergstrom. “We’re really talking about daily large events that happen on the street or in shopping centers that are brand- or product-specifi c. From runway fashion shows to spokesmodels to contests, there are all sorts of creative ways to get a customer attached to a brand.” She cited “the perfect storm” for a promotion in China: an event that draws a crowd, there’s a benefi cial price 2 reduction and it’s only for a limited time. “In places such as Shanghai, the Grand Gateway is loaded with daily promotions from several brands.” The mall itself has its fair share of high rollers in terms of retail: The Hong Kong Trade Development Council reported that in October 2006, “fi ve brands — Paul & Shark, Hugo Boss, Versace, DKNY and Diesel — opened shops on the fi rst fl oor of Grand Gateway in Shanghai.”

PRICE 59 percent Though quality is of course the most important factor, price isn’t something China’s youngsters overlook. “Typically, most youth are going to be price-sensitive because they only have so much to spend,” said Bergstrom. “But the unique aspect to this factor is that, even though they do need to 3 budget responsibly, young consumers will often tend to save up their allowances, so they can splurge on a more expensive item.” Wal-Mart, which boasts nearly 100 locations in more than 50 cities across China, is one of the most price-sensitive, of course.

SERVICE 56 percent “This is another big difference between the U.S. and China,” Bergstrom pointed out. “In China, good service is more a sign of showing respect and welcoming someone. It’s all about being a good host.” For young consumers, she pointed out, this is relevant because they are offended if a salesperson doesn’t show respect, pay attention or welcome them. Conversely, they’re impressed if they receive good service, and they will 4 remember that experience. “Good service is deﬁ nitely more likely if you are shopping from a franchise store or a popular brand, such as Li Ning or ANTA stores [both are two of China’s most well-known apparel and footwear retailers], versus a no-name shop,” Bergstrom said.

SALESPEOPLE 41 percent Bergstrom noted that, while many sales jobs in the U.S. are commission-based and have that ﬁ nancial incentive, China is not typically the same structure. In addition, in Chinese culture, it is simply expected that salespeople are good hosts and provide a good experience for their customers. Companies also have motivational programs, such as pep talks and exercise or dance breaks daily, in place for staff members to keep them happy, 5 for example. “This might seem strange to people in the U.S., but this is a huge part of the culture in China,” said Bergstrom. “Salespeople are motivated and creative, and this is especially important when catering to young consumers. They expect to be treated well — if you don’t treat young shoppers seriously, they will share that experience with others, so that store faces the possibility of getting no business from their friends.” CLEANLINESS 35 percent “Youth are becoming more vocal about how they want to experience things,” said Bergstrom. “But what’s funny to me is that there are plenty of students who don’t mind eating at a run-down noodle shop near campus, yet those same people would tell you that cleanliness is a ‘must’ wherever they are shopping. For them, it’s all about the in-store experience. Shopping at a run-down store doesn’t allow the customer the same comfortable 6 experience that it would in a cleaner store.” She pointed out that smaller, local shops run a greater challenge of maintaining a clean store, versus larger conglomerates, such as Wal-Mart (left), Carrefour and Tesco, where staff members are speciﬁ cally hired to maintain a clean store. SHIZUO KAMBAYASHI/APPHOTO SALESPEOPLE BY NEWS/LANDOV; DANIEL J. GROSHONG/BLOOMBERG BY SERVICE NEWS/LANDOV; KEVIN LEE/BLOOMBERG

REPUTATION 32 percent A brand’s reputation has everything to do with young consumers’ trust and perceptions as being trendy, fashionable and worth whatever price is paid. “Young people want to shop in places they can brag about to their friends. Again, it all goes back to social status for many of these consumers,” said Bergstrom. However, another challenge to a brand’s reputation is whether consumers feel that the goods being sold are 7 authentic. WWD reported in April, “China remains the number-one culprit for fashion counterfeits that expose U.S. brands to millions of dollars in lost revenue.” Bergstrom agreed: “Brands need to be very aware of this. The challenge for them is how they can connect with their consumers, gain their trust and still manage their environments.” INFORMATION 28 percent * At Fashion Group International’s panel discussion last week, panelist Jacquelyn Wenzel, president of Ports 1961, stressed the importance of promoting a brand’s heritage in stores, since the Chinese customer, “whose lifestyle is strongly tied to family values, appreciates a story when they buy into a brand.” Bergstrom shared this view and pointed out that relaying this type of information to consumers has become a huge trend for 8 big-name brands such as Levi’s and Nike. “Levi’s has such a history, and everyone knows it’s because of how well the brand communicates that history,” she stated. For Nike, she added, “You go into their stores in China, they have information displayed everywhere, such as where the brand originated. It educates your consumer as to what you are all about.” DISPLAYS 28 percent * “In China, displays run the full range,” said Bergstrom. “Some apparel stores simply feature mannequins next to piles of clothes on tables, while other store displays are sophisticated and beautiful and colorful, and you can see how the product looks best in its environment.” She pointed out that display options (other than mannequins) include featuring apparel with unique hanging systems upon the walls or creatively hanging outﬁ ts 9 next to tables of merchandise. Last year, Calvin Klein was up to the challenge of opening the Calvin Klein Collection store in Beijing, the line’s ﬁ rst in China. Store displays featured oversize pictures across the walls of models wearing the latest available merchandise.

LOCATION 22 percent The convenience factor, which is typically quite high for U.S. shoppers, just makes the cut for China’s top 10. Still, noted Bergstrom, convenient store locations are still quite attractive to consumers. “Chinese youth shop a lot,” she said. “It’s very much a pastime for them. In a lot of the urban centers, stores are aligned in such a way that youth can become very educated consumers very quickly.” In China, malls such as the South China 10 Mall in Guangdong (left), Xidan Shopping Center in Beijing and Gateway Plaza in Shanghai are conveniently located in urban areas and near public transportation. Of the position of the ranking, she commented: “I actually thought ‘location’ would be higher, but what this tells me is that young consumers are willing to go further out of their way to have a different kind of experience.” QUALITY PHOTO BY CLARO CORTES IV/REUTERS/LANDOV; PROMOTIONS, PRICE, REPUTATION AND DISPLAYS BY BERGSTROM TRENDS; CLEANLINESS BY BY AND DISPLAYS PROMOTIONS, PRICE, REPUTATION IV/REUTERS/LANDOV; CLARO CORTES PHOTO BY QUALITY SOURCE: SHANGHAI-BASED BERGSTROM TRENDS’ BERGSTROM REPORT; *INDICATES A TIE PRIME COMMERCIAL SPACES POSITION YOUR COMPANY AS A LEADER IN THE COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE INDUSTRY

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TD SR Mens or Womens Wovens $135K [email protected] 212-947-3400 Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 GENERAL MERCHANDISE MANAGER This Midwest-based, 200 store, fashion forward junior retailer, is seeking a true leader to assume the role of General Merchandise Manager. Technical Designer Help wanted for fast growing Missy Responsible for developing strategies to maximize business performance Sportswear Company. 3+ yrs Missy & profitability, promotional strategies, competitively dominant merchandise exp. Responsible for initial design tech assortments, profit maximization, and customer satisfaction by addressing packs. Knowledge of Excel a must, Illus- Broadway Garment Center needs of target customer. The GMM will oversee the planning & execution trator a plus. Position reports to Design NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Director. Salary commens. w/ exp. Great AVAILABLE TO SHARE of merchandise selection and procurement for related families of business. opportunity for talented, org’d, driven Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 The GMM will set the merchandise direction to ensure a focused continuity individual! Send Resume to: on the selling floor across families of business. [email protected] REQUIRED SKILLS: • Strong leadership profile • Highly organized and ability to adapt to quickly changing priorities. • Excellent written and verbal communication skills. • Strong negotiation skills. Technical Designer • Ability to work well with all levels of management, build partnerships Missy sportswear company seeks tech designer with min 5yrs exp. Must be and direct teams. highly organized and detail-oriented in • Ability to develop and empower a team. creating spec packs, QC & daily comm PATTERNS, SAMPLES, with overseas as well as private label EXPERIENCE AND EDUCATION: accounts. Extensive knowledge of Excel, PRODUCTIONS Minimum 10 -15 years of work exp. in buying/or product development garment construction, pattern-making, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. fit, technical sketching and grading a Call Sherry 212-719-0622. with a focus on Jr. Fashion Apparel merchandising. Mgmt experience is mandatory, with a successful track record of team development, business PRODUCTION must. Salary commensurate with exp. ASSISTANT/COODINATOR Email resume: [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, growth and bottom line financial results. Bachelor degree is preferred and NEEDED any education in fashion design and product development is a plus. Junior Denim Must have min 2 years experience in PRODUCTIONS Looking for a strong apparel. Please fax resume with salary Full service shop to the trade. We offer a competitive base compensation package, as well as attractive designer. Must have 3-5 yrs of request to 212-575-7009 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. benefit and incentive packages. Please e-mail resumes to; related exp in junior bottoms. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD [email protected] PhotoShop & Illustrator are a must. PRODUCTION COORD. TECHNICAL DESIGNER High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Need strong organizational skills. High-end women’s wear designer Private label knit co. seeks tech design & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 E-mail resume to: seeks a highly motivated and detail signer w/ active wear exp. Must have oriented individual to oversee all aspects fitting, grading, specing, garment con- [email protected] or fax (212)382-3047 of production. Min. 5 yrs experience, struction knowledge computer skills; must have construction knowledge Illustrator, Photoshop, Excel necess. Pls and track garments from production e-mail resume to [email protected] patterns to shipping. Must have excellent MERCHANDISER/STYLIST computer & communication skills. Midsize mature womenswear company Fax resume to: 212 938 1936 or E-mail seeks individual to merchandise an exist- resume to: [email protected] Design & Merchandising DIVISIONAL MERCHANDISE MANAGER ing well positioned labeled and private Full Line| Bridge|Contemp| Designer This Midwest-based, 200 store, fashion forward junior retailer, is seeking label line of casual merchandise. Pay T 212 252 9370 | E [email protected] commensurate with experience and www.stylewit.com a talented and experience Divisional Merchandise Manager. The Divisional substantial expertise in the area of casual Merchandise Manager is responsible for providing leadership & strategic bottoms is a must. Email or fax resume: SALES ASSISTANTS direction to the Buying Team. This position is accountable for setting the [email protected] Jr. Sportswear Co. has opening for 2 FAX (212)921-9038 sales assistants with a min. of 1 year vision, executing plans and optimizing financial results for the assigned experience. Responsibilities include categories. The DMM reports to General Merchandise Manager. PATTERNMAKERS sales follow-up & communicating with Search SKILLS AND REQUIREMENTS SUMMARY: Maggy London Corporation seeks retailers. Design background preferred. exp’d patternmakers. Strong better Computer literacy and familiarity • Excellent leadership & strategic thinking skills with a true entrepreneurial dress experience required. Lectra with Word & Excel a must. Should be hundreds of risk taking mentality. computer pattern making knowledge multi-tasker, organized & detail oriented. A+ but not required. Email resume Please e-mail resume to: positions in • Excellent communication, presentation, negotiating & influencing skills. to: [email protected] [email protected] • Exceptional ability to bridge and enhance working relationships with A/R CHARGEBACKS both internal and external business partners. fashion, retail Junior/Missy Apparel Company is • Proven ability to identify, motivate, develop and retain talent. Patternmakers Wanted seeking an experienced, motivated Seeking very experienced women’s and beauty. A/R chargeback analyst immediately • Strong organizational skills, and ability to multi-tasking and prioritize. designer collection patternmakers for SAMPLEMAKER for Bayonne, NJ office. E-mail resume • System and computer proficiency. 1st through production patterns for F/T-P/T. Ladies & Children’s to: [email protected] or • Travel frequently specializing in dresses, jackets and/ or Company based in Brooklyn. fax to: 201-761-0392 Attn: Jennifer Scott eveningwear. Complete understanding Please call: 917-370-2672 or 917-734-3404 EXPERIENCE AND EDUCATION: of construction, fit, & draping. Computer Minimum 10 years of work experience in buying/or product development pattern experience a plus. Competitive AR COLLECTIONS COORD. salaries/ benefits. Fax resume to: Apparel Co. seeks individual for A/R with a focus on Jr. Fashion apparel merchandising. Minimum of 5 years # 212 - 765 - 9659. collections & reconciling deductions. of mgmt experience with successful track record of team development, Sample Makers Wanted Responsible for resolutions of customer business growth & bottom line financial results. Bachelor degree preferred Seeking women’s designer collection discrepancies incl. returns, shortages, sample makers/ tailors. Eveningwear, POD’s, chargebacks etc. Competitive and any education in fashion design and product development is a plus. dresses, and/ or jackets. Must be salary/good benefits. Fax resume & sal. deadline oriented. Excellent opportunity requirements attn WC to: 212-840-8738 We offer a competitive base compensation package, as well as attractive for the right people. Competitive benefit and incentive packages. Please e-mail resumes to: salaries/ benefits. Fax resume and to: [email protected] PR Coordinator # 212 - 765 - 9659. CAD OPERATOR Seeking PR Coordinator to assist PR Dir. Good knowledge of Photoshop, on celebrity outreach & special events. Illustrator operate SHIMA printer for Excellent communication skills & min. 2 knits,will train. Fax resume to: Hand Finisher yrs exp. in a luxury brand press office a 212-268-9073 Couture House is seeking an experienced must. E-mail: [email protected] DATA ENTRY hand finisher who specializes in Contemporary Sportswear Company Apparel Co. seeks a well organized eveningwear and bridal. Knowledge of Seeking multi task individual. individual to do Order Entry, Invoicing, working with beading and other sewing PR DIRECTOR...... TO $80K SENIOR DESIGNER $100K+ Reception/clerical. Must have comput- A/P, A/R, Factoring. Must have strong abilities a plus. Large Fashion Non Profit Organization Bet Runway Contemp. Sweater Knits. er skills and 3 years experience. Fax computer skills. Accounting background Please call: 212-869-2296 or B2B, Consumer, & Trade PR 7+Years Hang w/ Theory, Chloe, Marc Jacobs information to 212-221-3887 a plus. Fax resume: (212)-869-0246. Fax resume to: 212-869-2236 [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2008 15 WWD.COM It’s All About the Costumes for Nolan, ‘Cake’ “LOOK ARISTOCRATIC,” CHOREOGRAPHER Fashion Scoops Brian Reeder calls out to the costumed dance troupe gathered around him in the American GEM PALACE: Siegelson, the 88-year-old fi ne Ballet Theatre’s rehearsal studio in the Flatiron jewelry fi rm, is partaking in the 16th Annual District. A few girls are milling about in gauzy Kennedy Center Gala celebrating The Art of ruffl ed tops and pouf skirts. The guys look like Film Music, which takes place on Sunday they just stepped out of a cartoon version of a in Washington. The jeweler has partnered Fragonard painting. The ballet, based on the with Neiman Marcus-Mazza Gallerie in life of Marie Antoinette, fi nally makes its New Washington, which is outfi tting several York debut today at the 1.2.3. Festival at the models in designer gowns including ones from Joyce Theater. But on this particular Thursday Naeem Khan, Carolina Herrera and Yves Saint in early April, it’s all about the dress rehearsal, Laurent. The black-tie event, which honors with emphasis on the word “dress.” Reeder ap- Steven Spielberg, Martin Scorsese and John proaches one dancer and helpfully pops up his Williams, will begin at 5 p.m. with a reception collar. “Aristocratic,” he repeats, “and not so where the models will don some extraordinary 1978 ‘Eyes of Laura Mars.’” jewelry pieces, including a pair of diamond Chances are, no one save “Cake” composer and amethyst ear pendants and an Art Deco, Karen LeFrak, who’s standing at the sidelines, will gem-studded bracelet. catch the reference to the Seventies fl ick starring Faye Dunaway and Tommy Lee Jones. The oldest BFF: Since Olivier Theyskens designed Lauren dancer here is 20 years old. But the message to ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY Santo Domingo’s wedding dress for her ABT’s junior company here is clear: In this ballet, Courtney Lavine of “Cake” getting dolled up. sumptuous affair this past January, it seems the clothes matter. only fair that the newlywed will help return the And, indeed, a few moments into he says. “Here, the costumes have to tell favor. This coming Monday, Santo Domingo the rehearsal, the mood shifts as de- a tale — Marie Antoinette, the French and the Nina Ricci designer will cohost an signer Charles Nolan arrives with court, the Sheep Meadow. And I had A diamond and sapphire after party following the Metropolitan Museum missing costumes and props. The to make sure that they could dance in necklace from Siegelson. of Art’s Costume Institute Ball at chic uptown girls are given their frothy — and them.” Thus, there are armholes in eatery Philippe. Three hundred guests are slightly panniered — frocks, be- each ruffl ed and ruched dress so the expected — which is a couple fewer than attended Santo Domingo’s fi tting their roles as part of the girls “are able to do all the lifts and nuptials, so she may have some more co-hostess duties in her future. Queens’ royal court. Nolan also stretches they need,” he says. “And the hands out cone-shaped tulle hats, netting in the skirts is industrial mesh, HOTFOOTING TO CANNES: Sergio Rossi is joining the foot parade at the 61st by theatrical milliner Roxanna not crinoline netting.” Cannes Film Festival. Creative director Edmundo Castillo has designed 150 Ramseur, meant to mimic 18th-century And all of it, Nolan adds, had to be pairs of gold and silver bow-adorned satin platform sandals, which will piled-high updos. “Each one had to be ad- done on the cheap, given the ABT’s limited retail at Rossi’s New York, Los Angeles, Milan, Rome, London and Paris justed to the dancer’s hairline,” Nolan notes. budget. Take the boys’ costumes, for instance. stores when the fest kicks off on May 14. The shoes may also show up on “Cake” marks the second collaboration be- The breeches are American Apparel jeans cut leading ladies in Cannes such as Julianne Moore (star of the opening fi lm, tween Nolan and the ABT. Two years ago, he off below the knee while the vests, also from “Blindness”), Gwyneth Paltrow (who stars in “Two Lovers”) and Robin Wright partnered with choreographer Sean Curran to American Apparel, are T-shirts appliquéd Penn (star of fest closer “What Just Happened” costarring her husband dress his dancers in “Aria,” set to music by Georg with trompe l’oeil buttons and buttonholes. Sean Penn, who is also heading the jury). In other Croisette fashion news, Friedrich Handel. But this ballet is more of a Meanwhile, the four prop babies, he says with a Balenciaga is slated to open a location there and Bottega Veneta will host challenge. “‘Aria’ was about sound and movement. laugh, “my sister got at Costco.” “The Knot: A Retrospective” to honor its signature clutch. Curran just needed his dancers not to be naked,” — Venessa Lau

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