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Fashion Evolution 1600 - 2018 „EUROPEAN SCHOOLS WITHOUT STEREOTYPES PROMOTING THE EUROPEAN INTERCULTURALITY“ № 2016-1-RO01-KA219-024675_2 FASHION EVOLUTION 1600 - 2018 This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. ,, The European Commission is not responsible for any uploaded or submitted content. The content reflects the views only of the European Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein” 1 Coordinators Teachers: Mrs. Drăguț Violeta, Tehnological High School Costești, ROMANIA Mrs. Anna Maria Lo Bue, I.I.S.S. "Carlo Maria Carafa" Mazzarino and Riesi, ITALY Mrs. Mandzhukova Evlogiya, Vocational School of Tourism “Mihalaki Georgiev”-Vidin, BULGARIA Mr. Onur Arslan, Sule Muzaffer Buyuk Vocational and Technical Anatolian High School, Manavgat, TURKEY COORDINATORS ON CHAPTERS Teachers: Mrs. Tsetska Kamenova, Vocational School of Tourism “Mihalaki Georgiev”-Vidin, Bulgaria Mrs. Drăguț Violeta, Tehnological High School Costești, ROMANIA Mrs. Anna Maria Lo Bue, I.I.S.S. "Carlo Maria Carafa" Mazzarino and Riesi, ITALY Mrs. Canan Kartal, Sule Muzaffer Buyuk Vocational and Technical Anatolian High School, Manavgat, Turkey COLLABORATORS Teachers: Mrs. Ghițulescu Daniela, Tehnological High School Costești, ROMANIA Mrs. Oprea Alexandra, Tehnological High School Costești, ROMANIA Mrs. Mureșan Georgeta Monica, Tehnological High School Costești, ROMANIA Mrs. Nicolae Gherghina, Tehnological High School Costești, ROMANIA Mrs. Caterina De Maria, I.I.S.S. "Carlo Maria Carafa" Mazzarino and Riesi, ITALY Mr. Luciano Sgarito, I.I.S.S. "Carlo Maria Carafa" Mazzarino and Riesi, ITALY STUDENTS: I. Valentinova, R. Di Legami, S. Mancuso, F. Ligotti, M.Ligotti , S. Russo, D. Cosmin, T. Dumitru, E. Grigore, I. Lorenlai, Nil Su Tarla, M. Melek Avci, T. Ersoy Editor Mrs. Anna Maria Lo Bue, I.I.S.S. "Carlo Maria Carafa" Mazzarino and Riesi, ITALY 2 PROJECT FUNDED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION PROJECT FUNDED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION Mazzarino and Riesi- ITALY 2018 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, 3 in any form or any means, without permission in writing from the authors. INDEX INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….5 EVOLUTION OF FASHION IN BULGARIA 1660-2018 HISTORICAL REVIEW…………………………………………………………..…………………………………………..………………..6 NORTHERN COSTUME……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..……….7 DOBRUDZHA COSTUME………………………………………………………………………………………………………..………….8 COSTUME OF THE SHOPS – THE AREA AROUND SOFIA:……………………………………………………………….…..9 THRACIAN COSTUME FROM THE ETHNOGRAPHIC AREA OF STRANDZHA:……………………………………..9 COSTUMES IN PIRIN REGION ………………………………………………………………………………………………….………10 BIBLIOGRAPHY………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..11 EVOLUTION OF FASHION IN ITALY: 1600-2018 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY COSTUMES…………………………………………………………………..............................12 EIGHTEENTH CENTURY COSTUMES………………………………………………………………………………….……………..13 NINETEENTH CENTURY COSTUMES…………………………………………………………………………………………….…..14 THE 20th CENTURY……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………......16 COMTEPORARY CENTURY AND BIBLIOGRAPHY……………………………………………………………………………….18 EVOLUTION OF FASHION IN ROMANIA: 1660-2018 HISTORY………………………………………………………………………………………….…….……………………………..………..19 THE MAN COSTUMES……………………………………………………………………..……………………………………………...20 THE FEMALE COSTUMES…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..….…21 BIBLIOGRAPHY………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..23 EVOLUTION OF FASHION IN TURKEY:1600-2018 HYSTORY……….............................................................………………………………………………………………….…24 THE PARTS OF THE CLOTHES BELONG TO WOMEN………………………………………………………………………..25 THE PARTS OF THE CLOTHES BELONG TO MAN…………………………………………………………………….…..…..26 FASHION1980s -1990s……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….29 TODAY…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………...30 BIBLIOGRAPHY……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….31 4 INTRODUCTION The book is one the products of the Erasmus Project called European Schools without Stereotypes Promoting the European Interculturality that has been developed over the years 2016/2018 by the Schools from Liceul Technologic. Costesti (Romania), I.I.S.S. Carlo Maria Carafa di Mazzarino e Riesi (Italy), Vocational School of Tourism Mihalaki Georgiev. Vidin (Bulgaria), Sule Muzzaffer Buyuk Mesleki ve Teknik Anadolu Lisesi. Antalya (Turkey). Students and teachers from these four schools have examined the history of costume evolution from the 1600s to the present day. It is fascinating to study how fashions have changed over the centuries. Clothing is vital for humans in order to protect us from the elements, but it is also used to represent status and other aspects of our being. With this project we want to examine the evolution in the way of dressing in the different countries of the project partners throughout this span of time in order to find out the similarities and differences of our history of costume. Thus we have found out how in 1900s the differences in clothing have almost completely broken down and we are increasingly becoming similar in our way of dressing. In fact, today people wear nearly the same kind of clothing from whatever country they come from. This also represents a way of breaking down the differences between peoples. So we can say that we are equal even in this. Mrs. Anna Maria Lo Bue 5 EVOLUTION OF FASHION IN BULGARIA 1600-2018 Authors: E. Mandzhukova, T. Kamenova, I. Valentinova HISTORICAL REVIEW The history of clothing in Bulgarian lands begins with settlement of the Slavs and the Proto- Bulgarians. They brought a new way of life that affects both the lifestyle and the clothing. The typical garment for Slav men and women is the wide and straight shirt, usually made of flax or hemp. The shirt for men was knee-long, and for women its length reached the ankles. Unlike the garments of the Slavs, which had been made of plant materials, the everyday clothing of the Bulgarians was made of animal skin, which reflected their lifestyle. The textile traditions of the local Thracian population also influenced the clothing of the Slavs and Bulgarians. Thus, over the centuries, the common hereditary characteristics of clothing have shaped the typical clothing of the Bulgarian population during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. After the adoption of Christianity in 865, the new religion influenced the Bulgarian aristocracy, which began to follow the clothing and lifestyle of the Byzantine rulers and aristocracy. Thus their clothing differred from the traditional Bulgarian clothing. These differences disappeared after Bulgaria lost its independence and state during the Turkish yolkat the end of the 14th century. During the period of Turkish rule, the rich decoration of the Bulgarian official and traditional costume disappeared. The new historical reality imposed new clothes requirements. The Bulgarian population in the towns and villages, called raya, was forbidden to wear beautiful clothes. The dress should only be in dark colors, black or brown, so it would not attract attention. The clothing materials had to be rough. The Bulgarians had no right to wear expensive and richly decorated clothes. These restrictions were mainly applied to the Bulgarian aristocracy. The traditional Bulgarian clothing was preserved in black version for the winter and white for the summer. After the Liberation in 1878, along with the formation of the state and the institutions a novelties appeared and again there was formed urban and rural clothing. The social clothing did not differ significantly from that before the Liberation, while in urban clothing again the fashionable European tendencies began to emerge. So for the 16, 17, 18, 19 century we can summarize that the 6 traditional Bulgarian clothing was almost unchanged for the whole period, but there were some specific features in the different ethnographic areas. Northern costume Traditional Northwestern clothing for north and northwestern Bulgaria, where Vidin is located, is spread from Pleven to the north to the Danube and Romania, and to the West to the Republic of Serbia. The women's costume is two-sided and consists of a front and a back embroidered apron, white cotton embroidered shirt with lace sleeves and skirt with red wool embroidered belt. The male Northern costume is includes white pants, called benevretsi, with a top embroidered garment with sleeves to the elbows or sleeveless and without a collar. 7 Dobrudzha costume The costume of Dobrudzha is characteristic of the region of Northeastern Bulgaria - Dobrudzha region. This is the region of Dobrich, Silistra and Varna. The female Dobrudja costume consists of a red sleeveless dress with embroidery, a long white cotton shirt with embroidery, a red wool apron with embroidery, a yellow towel with fringes on the head and a belt. The men's costume consists of black trousers, a white cotton shirt with embroidery around the neck, a wavy red belt, a characteristic towel and a specific thick leg calf for the legs. 8 Costume of the Shops – the area around Sofia: The costume is beautiful and varied. It was spread in the region of Sofia, Ihtiman, Pernik and Dupnitsa. The women's costume consisted of a black or blue sleeveless dress with a bayonet, a long white shirt to the ankle with embroidery, a belt of white and red piping. The typical decoration for the women was called coilo / gathered in a bundle a bunch of grass, painted in the rainbow colours. They also wore white lace headscarf. Men's costume consisted of black or dark blue vest with
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